I’m wondering if you have tried glueing the inner frame lengths to the outer frame lengths, THEN making the mitre cut and THEN joining. Would that alleviate that problem of the possible mismatch in fit?
Great Video! I now glue the wood stock before cutting: wood glue and clamp your side lumber to the base frame lumber first. Then cut once on a mitre saw. I also find gluing up frame stock beforehand keeps the lumber from warping in storage.
Hello Mike, I commented quite some time about pre blackening the edges first and then doing the assembly. Well, here I am 4 years later and with my dad's old 9" sear craftsman, I have been trying different methods. I have plunge ripped 2x material at right angles to make the L for the frame so both the base and the sides are one part. That went ok, but still error induced cuts where not all the thicknesses were uniform. I use the scrap for smaller frames or other projects. I have been doing ok ripping to a 1-1/4 x 1-1/5 "dowel", then making the shallow plunge cut for the 1/4" panels, and then deeper one for the 3/8" panels I use of MDO. Now, The larger frames required some stepping back to your process, but I make rip the base frame material in a length, say 36". Then I rip the side frame the same length, but 3/8" thick. I glue and brad nail the pieces together. (oh, I have pre-blackened the base frame leaving the inside wall natural.) I should say I did paint the inside walls on some and skim cut them depending on the recess I need. That works fine. The edges still need re-varnish though. I made a 90 jig for my miter saw. I don't change the angle. It stays set. The have a rail parallel to the fence on the saw, and then another rail 90 degrees from that. Cut one is against the fence, (with the inside edge of the base against the rail. Cut two is against the side rail with the sharp edge on the outside away from the rail. This cut results in two 45-degree cuts. Also registering the inside face of the base. (I'm cutting the assembled base and sides it this point) I have a stop for the last cut for repeatability. I have an adhesive measuring tape parallel to the second cut rail. It lets me use values that can be recorded for future cuts as it's not correct for actual distances. I haven't figured that out yet. I tried your method and struggled making the cuts over and over to get the edges just right. I have some extra assembled stock ready for more frames. I varnish them before I miter as its time-consuming working with a frame in your hand and not messing up the varnish. I have thought to use spray varnish. So, that's my report. It's a learning experience for sure and I don't have a super shop. Just a table saw, miter saw and some power tools and having fun. As they say, "It's a pleasure to create a treasure." Best in painting, Paul PS: I have used 1" flat black gaffers tape on the frames instead of paint. Its quicker but maybe a little more costly. Some frames I don't blacken at all. The black on the base is sufficient to show off the painting. It all goes away if we paint the whole thing black. Not my style.
Wow…I’m a new wood worker, and have a well known artist sister. Both of us naturally have spent a fortune on framing thru the years. We had a conversation yesterday about floater frames, and I’m going to build some. Your video is just really great! Thank you for the inspiration of your art, and your framing. You have amazing talents (plural) , and so well spoken to explain the process better than many wood workers. All the best to you !!
I've been making similar frames for years, but have not painted the inside edges. Generally the rule of thumb is don't paint acrylic or latex over oil. Do you use water-based or regular urethane? Or, is that perhaps not an issue with urethane (as opposed to oil paint)? From what I have read online it's OK to paint latex over polyurethane as long as the surface is lightly sanded first, but any further comments your experience would be helpful. Your videos are very helpful and clear. Thanks.
I make layered art with wood. I have been dying to learn this. You have given me the motivation to do this myself. Can i ask should the art work be level with the frame or does it not matter ? Thanks
When you say 1x4, is that actually 1inch x 4 inches or more like a "1x4" that you find at Home Depot, which is really 3/4"x3.5"? Cut in half you would get 3x4"x1.75" minus a little kerf. Thanks! Love your videos.
As a fellow Artist , Painter , Hobbyist Woodworker and recently youtube creator, This info is Priceless! thank you so much for sharing it, This gave me a simple and well explained way to start experimenting with frames!
Thank you for showing your frame building process. I just saw one of your videos and searched for this one because immediately noticed your frames are very cool, I'm glad you had made this video
Great vid thank you. In just starting making my own frames. Made my first one today. Mis measured. Still going to find use for it. I am a new painter. Water color and acrylics. I’m 68 so no rush in learning anything. I have been a maker all of my life. Now i make things slow and easy winds my own race.
I’d like to know specifically what type fasteners and bits you’re using to fasten the outside frame together. The video shows several frames clamped together on a table. Looks like a pilot hole is drilled, then a bit change, and the fastener is drilled into place. Do you sink the head of the fastener? How do you cover the fastener, is wood putty applied? Otherwise, love this video! I’ve subscribed to your channel and now following you on IG😊
I use to simply nail a deeper poplar strip to the painting. Right through the canvas and into the stretcher bars with small head estutcheon (sp?) nails. It was just okay. I like these floater frames so much more! I've got most of the tools...just need a planer.
Mike, have you tried a skim cut on the outer face if paint gets on it? Of course, it would mean accommodating that removal of material. That would require a coat of poly of course. Seems there would be a way to do that. Masking that face perhaps? Always find your videos informative. What is your cradle cross section? Paul
Michael, I love the quality of your frames. If you ever decided to build palette boxes like the one you use, I would totally buy one and I'll bet other would as well.
What is that green machine/sander thing you run the wood through?Is it important to have one when building your own frames? Your method looks pretty easy...I hope! Thank you.
I'm running the wood through a planer. I only use it when milling the outer strips myself. You can buy the strips precut and then you just need a mitre saw. 😊
Wonder how it would work if the outer strips were painted black first as well as the other back frame. Then, take a skim cut on the strip to clean up any paint. But, still a good idea to seal the wood first. It's possible to skim the frame face after assembly I'd say. Thanks for the video. What do you do for panels?
Thanks Paul. I’ve had so many suggestions about pre painting or pre gluing to save time.The way I do it is fast and I don’t run into problems. Give your idea a try and let me know how it goes!
Interesting... My wife is doing some painting and has asked me to build some floating frames for her. One thing that came to mind while watching: you mentioned it's difficult to get the poplar outside strip to fit the inside properly; have you tried attaching the outside strip to the face boards before cutting and gluing the faceboards together? Might end up with some addtional waste, but... I'm gonna have to think on that a bit. Thanks for the video; very helpful!
Those frames are so beautiful. I'm looking into making my own because I have a couple of oil paintings that need frames that are odd sizes. But I think this technique is way beyond my skill level and also I don't have all those saws! Thank you for sharing your technique, I love how the simplicity of the frame lets the art shine.
You mentioned that you have a bunch of gold frames hanging around which you use to use for your artwork. I like a good gold frame depending on the painting. What I cannot find, however, is a warm, Mexican gold spray paint on Amazon, or at Lowes, etc. Do you know where I can source this color? It looks like gilt gold--warm gold. Thank you. Good work. I used to live in SF so some of the paintings in the background make me homesick.
Thanks for the information - very helpful. It would be great to be 100% perfect everytime when building a frame, but I imagine there are those times when you may need to correct a problem rather than discarding the frame. Any fixits you've encountered that you'd like to pass along?
I do love these frames, Michael! What do I do if I cannot afford a planer and/or table saw and the local Home Depot and Lowes do not offer 1-3/4 x 1/4 side panel wood? All I can find is 1-1/2 x 1/4. *Update: Have you covered this topic on Patreon? I have been painting with canvas, but have painted on 3/16 Masonite before and liked it too, and I could switch. I could use a thinner wood for the base-frame portion? It would be very helpful if you could write down the dimensions of wood, off the shelf wood, we could use if painting on either board or canvas. I understand ripping your own wood is much more affordable but not all of us can afford the expensive tools. Thanks for your great plien-air painting videos!
1. Build the frame using the off-the-shelf 1-1/2" x 1/4" for the sides, make the inner (back) portion of the frame with off the shelf 1/2" thick wood. 2. Using 3/16" panels, glue 3/4" thick strips on the back to make the cradle, so your painting will not be just over 7/8" thick. (The 3/16" hardboard panels are actually 0.155" or about 5/32", or midway between 1/8" and 3/16.") When mounted in the frame the top of the painting should be a whisker under 1/8" below the top of the frame. If you are using a 3/4" thick stretched canvas, glue some strips 1/8" thick at each of the corners, then the top of the canvas should be 1/8" below the top edge of the frame when mounted. Jon Peters has a video on making floaters with off the shelf wood from the lumber yard but I have not checked the details. ruclips.net/video/lSU5darREwc/видео.html
Enjoying your videos. You are a good cabinetmaker. ( I was a professional cabinetmaker for a few decades) I happen to prefer a float frame over a typical ornate plein air frames- they look more contemporary to me. My issue when traveling to a plein air festival is this: I like to carry a bunch of simple masonite panels to paint on- unstretched. If I am home this is no problem- I can add stretchers to the paintings i want to frame. But on the road, this is difficult under the time constraints. So how do i attach the panels to the float frames? They are too thin to screw into from the back. I have brought float frames i have made with integral stretchers, but then I have to glue in the panels, which is not really that satisfactory. Any suggestions?
Michael, Do you find gluing the outer pieces to be sufficient, and have you seen any issues sending framed work to drier climates where the wood moisture can shift? I know some videos show guys using a pin gun there. Really enjoy your videos and thanks for all the details you supply. Jake
I've never had any problems with the glue. I once tried to remove the outer pieces and it was impossible. I had to use the table saw and then ran them through the planer. Titebond will hold in any climate. I believe it's rated as an exterior glue so there's no way it's coming apart in someone's house.
Amazing work Mike...all those tools and machines are great. When I moved to France I took all my paintings off of their canvases, rolled them and put them in 2 plastic tubes (I also had to do all the paper work to export them)...so when I arrived I made all the canvanses again myself to mount the paintings...it was a pain in the ass (and hands literally lol, stretching properly the cotton or the linen was hell)...so now I just buy the complete canvases (primed cotton smoooth tooth) for a fair price and If I need to I just paint the border of the canvas. But it's because in here there's no need to present your paintings framed to the galleries or shops.
Those frames are so beautiful! I don't have all those machines and I'm not sure I have the confidence to go for that kind of work. I bought some wood this summer but never got to try to make one!! So cool that you share your method! Cheers!
Thanks! I've tried staining the wood with black stain and it looked good. Most people request the natural wood color so that's what I build the most of.
Ever consider a thicker square material equal to your current outside wall and cutting a wall and floor that would emulate the two piece assembly. For a panel, the first cut is 1/4" deep set for 1/4" off the fence. Flip 90 and plunge to this cut. Mitre and join. I did this with 3/4 pine thus the outer wall is 3/4.
Hi. I watch Jon Peter's who is a woodworker. Now he makes his own frames for his art work and he's been doing that for 2 decades. I was watching him do different floating frames. He actually paints his base frame and outer frame separately before assembling it.
I think I missed something...when you drilled and countersunk for screws on the base frame, did you plug the holes with dowels or did you fill with wood filler? Thanks in advance....
@@chamberlainpaintings wow have you edited this video recently because in the one I just watched there was no mention of countersinking the pan head screw which, as a cabinet maker, I thought strange. Good video though. Thank you
Great videos. For some years I have been making my own painting panels, canvass glued to baltic birch. Lots of steps. I like your frames and may add this to my to do list, but plien air painting, nearly every day is now my goal. At 72 years of age I need way more paintings under my belt. I do have a question. How do you attach your 1/8 inch panels to these floating frames? You mentioned this so quickly that I did not catch it. Like I said at the start, you do a great job with these videos and I hope to watch many more. Thanks.
@@agility62 I've heard that some artists would attach the half inch cradle pieces to the inside back of the base before applying the black paint and then use double sided tape on the back of the panel for temporary use. I think it might work for plain air.
Thanks for posting. I am gearing up to frame a big 4ft x 3ft canvas art. I like your design best from what I've seen. Very streamlined. I tend to overdesign.
@@chamberlainpaintings awesome! Thanks so much for taking the time to respond. Love your videos. Saw you just uploaded a video on this topic as well. Thanks again and keep up the great work!
The frames look sharp. One thing I'd do though is glue the decorative and baseboards together first--like in long sections--then miter them together. You'd reduce the cuts and glue time by half. I do something similar for making canvas stretchers. There are some other comments murmuring about this, too.
Thanks! Gluing the decorative and the baseboards doesn't work for me. Have you tried it? You'd have to have perfect wood, no knots or imperfections, and good luck getting the miters on the decorative tight without traditional framing tools. I figure most of the murmurings about this are from people who haven't actually tried what they're suggesting. Cutting and gluing up the frames takes no time at all, it's the sanding and finishing that takes a lot of time!
I haven't made floating frames with method this but I made painting stretchers this way and it worked fine, but obviously minor blemishes are going to be hidden by the canvas. I used a band clamp for the miters and it did the job. I might try this soon and I'll let you know if there are complications.
Michael, always like your videos. I make my own panels from eigth inch Baltic Birch ply covered in Linen. They work great and now I want o make my own frames. Yours look excellent. I remain on clear on how to attach my panel to your frame. Clearly mine are not thick enough to receive a screw. I may use double sided tape. What is your process/ I can't see that step in your video. Thanks
G'day Michael. I have been having a go at building some frames based on your process, and I am wondering more specifically about the process for painting the black inner portion of the frame as this part is where I'm struggling a bit. You mention wiping away with a rag in order to obtain a sharp edge. I have tried this and it I am finding it quite tricky to get a sharp edge. I have also tried masking the face of the frame with tape and then painting the black, to varying results. Could you maybe give me some more detailed insight into how you achieve a clean edge there? Would be great to see how you do it in action, but I understand that's a big ask!
This is kind of late, and may not be helpful, but I wonder if you could use a squared off block with sandpaper attached and sand away that extra paint that may be left over on the front of the frame?
He says that the frame is polyurethane before using black acrylic paint. A trick I use when painting the edges of an acrylic painting is to dampen the front of the painting with water, paint the edge and then just wipe away any paint where it's not wanted.
@@ashleyschell7421 cheers for the idea! it could work if I was willing to sand back and do another coat of varnish, but I've already varnished by that point so it would be a little annoying I think. I have adapted my process now to one which I find works and will put it in a general reply below.
@@rduff1999 yes I was running into this issue after having already coated the frame with polyurethane varnish. Used damp rag as well. While I could get okay results it was realllllly tedious to get the kind of line I wanted. I have adapted my process now to one which I find works and will put it in a general reply below.
After a while of trial and error I have ended up adapting my process to one which works best for me, although it has one slight change to the design (which in the end I prefer). I now paint the base inner part of the frame black with a couple of coats PRIOR to attaching the outer side pieces. This makes the painting part very simple. I then attach the side pieces, and varnish over the top of the whole lot. (Making sure to easily wipe away any sanding dust present on the black portion with a damp paper towel before varnishing) The difference in design I mention is that the inner sides of the outer pieces are no longer black, but a natural finish. The only black part is the inner frame, sitting behind the painting. In the end I preferred this look compared to having the black all the way around the inner edge. (I found that when looking at a framed painting from anywhere other than straight-on made it look like the painting was not centred in the frame, as I was seeing the black inner edge of one side, but not the other). I've found this process to be a bit quicker, smoother, less fiddly, and I like the visual result a bit more. But to each their own :)
I frame all my paintings and framed 28 paintings last year for others. I sold unframed paintings to friends in the past and they sat on the floor unframed. That perturbed me so they all get frames. As time goes by it can get more fancier with experience.
Hey! Hope all is well with you. I just bought some Chamberlain Coffee and I’ve always wished making coffee could be as easy as using a teabag and I am beyond excited to find out how it goes! Also, I’m a 50 year old Emma stan (learned that word this year) and I swear I’m not embarrassed by that at ALL. It’s a MOOD! (Chamberlain Paintings stan as well of course but that is age appropriate so not as wack). 😂
Hey Amy! Just revisiting this video and noticed your comment. Hope you enjoyed your Chamberlain Coffee. I still haven't gotten any! Emma gave me a few bags back in December and I really liked it. I stan and it's definitely a big MOOD.
@@chamberlainpaintings haha! dude, low key, you NEED to get some! I want to share my experience with it: I'll start by saying I drink my coffee hot. Would love to carry around a mason jar with a straw and ice but I just don't swing that way. So, the first time I tried it, I didn't like it that much. I didn't dislike it, but I wasn't blown away. Then I ran out of my regular coffee and tried it again--THIS time I let it steep at least 8 minutes (I'd recommend 10) before adding milk/cream, and I took the bag out before pouring it in. Totally different and I LOVED it! I'm saving up for something right now and being careful with my spending, so I'm not drinking it every day, but it's great for travel and to switch things up. (I think it probably makes more coffee per pack for those who drink it cold and steep in the fridge...seems like you could get two days worth with one packet that way) I would HIGH KEY (wtf does that mean? LOL) buy some Chamberlain beans because I am obsessed with the flavor--I truly love it now that I've steeped it long enough. I realize I am not the target audience, but if there is any chance of selling the same beans used to make the packets, I would be so in and I'd make it my daily brew! My preferred method with beans is pour-over. Thank you for letting me share my current MOOD, which is good bc I just watched Emma's and Olivia's new vids! Is this the female Gen X version of a midlife crisis? Watching Gen Z videos? They make me so happy! About to watch your new one now and my Sunday night will be complete. :) Stanning is so fun!
@@amyarnelle I'm with you on wanting beans! I think that'll be the next product they roll out. I'm hooked on the Bialetti for making coffee and I need whole beans for that. I like pour over too.
You should try opening up the black area a tiny bit to reveal more black area and painting it with "vantablack" its equal is called "black 3.0" i believe it'll make your paintings pop even more
I notice you didn’t reinforce the decorative part of the frame with nails or screws. What about larger size frames, 36” x 36” or larger, is it still the same process? Thank you!
@@chamberlainpaintings ah cool, here in Sweden it might be a bit less expensive. I can get a 16x20 floater frame for about 50 dollars. do you have a video where you break down the costs? Id be very interested! Of course there is the initial investment in the machinery and tools, wood and most importantly, your time. But you of course have the flexibility to do whatever sizes and finishes you want, and whenever you want!
can I do a floater frame but with a glass front ? I have some work that I think would look good in a floater frame but I like to have my work behind glass. thanks and have a burrito for me.
The glass on a floater would be possible. Say it's 1/8" glass, the cut a groove (technically a dado) on the inside of the outer frame, say 1/8" deep and 1/8" from the top edge in all four side pieces and about 1/16" wider than the glass is thick. You would need to adjust other dimensions (taller side pieces or thinner cradle behind the panel) as needed to be sure that you had at least 1/8" clearance between the glass and the painting. But with very rare exceptions, glass is only used for works on paper (watercolors, etc.). I love watercolors, but find that the inevitable reflections can be distracting so like most other artists never put an oil or acrylic behind glass. If you are a watercolorist you could glue the painting to a panel (there are special glues for that) and then proceed as above.
Hi Michael. You mentioned a cradle for panels when you're attaching them to your floater frames. How do you make the cradle? Thanks. Hope you had a Happy Thanksgiving and hope you have a great Christmas ahead.
The cradle is made the same way the base frame is made. I then glue it to the back of my masonite panels with liquid nails adhesive. Hope you have a great Christmas as well!
I’m wondering if you have tried glueing the inner frame lengths to the outer frame lengths, THEN making the mitre cut and THEN joining. Would that alleviate that problem of the possible mismatch in fit?
Great Video! I now glue the wood stock before cutting: wood glue and clamp your side lumber to the base frame lumber first. Then cut once on a mitre saw. I also find gluing up frame stock beforehand keeps the lumber from warping in storage.
Hello Mike, I commented quite some time about pre blackening the edges first and then doing the assembly. Well, here I am 4 years later and with my dad's old 9" sear craftsman, I have been trying different methods. I have plunge ripped 2x material at right angles to make the L for the frame so both the base and the sides are one part. That went ok, but still error induced cuts where not all the thicknesses were uniform. I use the scrap for smaller frames or other projects. I have been doing ok ripping to a 1-1/4 x 1-1/5 "dowel", then making the shallow plunge cut for the 1/4" panels, and then deeper one for the 3/8" panels I use of MDO. Now, The larger frames required some stepping back to your process, but I make rip the base frame material in a length, say 36". Then I rip the side frame the same length, but 3/8" thick. I glue and brad nail the pieces together. (oh, I have pre-blackened the base frame leaving the inside wall natural.) I should say I did paint the inside walls on some and skim cut them depending on the recess I need. That works fine. The edges still need re-varnish though. I made a 90 jig for my miter saw. I don't change the angle. It stays set. The have a rail parallel to the fence on the saw, and then another rail 90 degrees from that. Cut one is against the fence, (with the inside edge of the base against the rail. Cut two is against the side rail with the sharp edge on the outside away from the rail. This cut results in two 45-degree cuts. Also registering the inside face of the base. (I'm cutting the assembled base and sides it this point) I have a stop for the last cut for repeatability. I have an adhesive measuring tape parallel to the second cut rail. It lets me use values that can be recorded for future cuts as it's not correct for actual distances. I haven't figured that out yet.
I tried your method and struggled making the cuts over and over to get the edges just right. I have some extra assembled stock ready for more frames. I varnish them before I miter as its time-consuming working with a frame in your hand and not messing up the varnish. I have thought to use spray varnish.
So, that's my report. It's a learning experience for sure and I don't have a super shop. Just a table saw, miter saw and some power tools and having fun. As they say, "It's a pleasure to create a treasure."
Best in painting,
Paul
PS: I have used 1" flat black gaffers tape on the frames instead of paint. Its quicker but maybe a little more costly. Some frames I don't blacken at all. The black on the base is sufficient to show off the painting. It all goes away if we paint the whole thing black. Not my style.
Wow…I’m a new wood worker, and have a well known artist sister. Both of us naturally have spent a fortune on framing thru the years. We had a conversation yesterday about floater frames, and I’m going to build some. Your video is just really great! Thank you for the inspiration of your art, and your framing. You have amazing talents (plural) , and so well spoken to explain the process better than many wood workers. All the best to you !!
Thank you!
You know what the viewer wants- see the finished product at the start of the video and then show the process.. good job!
I have always wanted to know this! I just LOVE how your frames look.
That, my friend, was a clinic! Very well done. Also loved seeing the dog!
Beautiful frames! Can you also show how the canvas is mounted onto one?
I've been making similar frames for years, but have not painted the inside edges. Generally the rule of thumb is don't paint acrylic or latex over oil. Do you use water-based or regular urethane? Or, is that perhaps not an issue with urethane (as opposed to oil paint)? From what I have read online it's OK to paint latex over polyurethane as long as the surface is lightly sanded first, but any further comments your experience would be helpful.
Your videos are very helpful and clear. Thanks.
Water based polyurethane 👍
I make layered art with wood. I have been dying to learn this. You have given me the motivation to do this myself. Can i ask should the art work be level with the frame or does it not matter ?
Thanks
I usually have the painting slightly recessed but it’s up to you!
Excellent advice, especially on why you poly the inside of the frame. Thanks for making a useful and informative video!
When you say 1x4, is that actually 1inch x 4 inches or more like a "1x4" that you find at Home Depot, which is really 3/4"x3.5"? Cut in half you would get 3x4"x1.75" minus a little kerf. Thanks! Love your videos.
As a fellow Artist , Painter , Hobbyist Woodworker and recently youtube creator, This info is Priceless! thank you so much for sharing it, This gave me a simple and well explained way to start experimenting with frames!
Glad you found it helpful!
Hi Michael, very informative video! Thx! Is it really necessary to reinforce the base frame with screws?
I currently only reinforce frames 16x20” and larger.
@@chamberlainpaintings Makes sense. Thanks!
Thank you for showing your frame building process. I just saw one of your videos and searched for this one because immediately noticed your frames are very cool, I'm glad you had made this video
have you ever use different colors in the inside of the frame, beside black...? maybe gold or something complementary to the painting?
Hi guyz,,,, for larger frames,,,is there any preference in woods that I should know about..???
Great vid thank you. In just starting making my own frames. Made my first one today. Mis measured. Still going to find use for it. I am a new painter. Water color and acrylics. I’m 68 so no rush in learning anything. I have been a maker all of my life. Now i make things slow and easy winds my own race.
I’d like to know specifically what type fasteners and bits you’re using to fasten the outside frame together. The video shows several frames clamped together on a table. Looks like a pilot hole is drilled, then a bit change, and the fastener is drilled into place. Do you sink the head of the fastener? How do you cover the fastener, is wood putty applied? Otherwise, love this video! I’ve subscribed to your channel and now following you on IG😊
Honestly, ty for this video
I use to simply nail a deeper poplar strip to the painting. Right through the canvas and into the stretcher bars with small head estutcheon (sp?) nails. It was just okay.
I like these floater frames so much more!
I've got most of the tools...just need a planer.
Mike, have you tried a skim cut on the outer face if paint gets on it? Of course, it would mean accommodating that removal of material. That would require a coat of poly of course. Seems there would be a way to do that.
Masking that face perhaps?
Always find your videos informative.
What is your cradle cross section?
Paul
Michael, I love the quality of your frames. If you ever decided to build palette boxes like the one you use, I would totally buy one and I'll bet other would as well.
What is that green machine/sander thing you run the wood through?Is it important to have one when building your own frames? Your method looks pretty easy...I hope! Thank you.
I'm running the wood through a planer. I only use it when milling the outer strips myself. You can buy the strips precut and then you just need a mitre saw. 😊
Wonder how it would work if the outer strips were painted black first as well as the other back frame. Then, take a skim cut on the strip to clean up any paint. But, still a good idea to seal the wood first. It's possible to skim the frame face after assembly I'd say. Thanks for the video. What do you do for panels?
Thanks Paul. I’ve had so many suggestions about pre painting or pre gluing to save time.The way I do it is fast and I don’t run into problems. Give your idea a try and let me know how it goes!
I usually cradle the panels that get framed. They end up 3/4” thick
Interesting... My wife is doing some painting and has asked me to build some floating frames for her.
One thing that came to mind while watching: you mentioned it's difficult to get the poplar outside strip to fit the inside properly; have you tried attaching the outside strip to the face boards before cutting and gluing the faceboards together? Might end up with some addtional waste, but... I'm gonna have to think on that a bit.
Thanks for the video; very helpful!
Those frames are so beautiful. I'm looking into making my own because I have a couple of oil paintings that need frames that are odd sizes. But I think this technique is way beyond my skill level and also I don't have all those saws! Thank you for sharing your technique, I love how the simplicity of the frame lets the art shine.
You mentioned that you have a bunch of gold frames hanging around which you use to use for your artwork. I like a good gold frame depending on the painting. What I cannot find, however, is a warm, Mexican gold spray paint on Amazon, or at Lowes, etc. Do you know where I can source this color? It looks like gilt gold--warm gold. Thank you. Good work. I used to live in SF so some of the paintings in the background make me homesick.
Thanks for the information - very helpful. It would be great to be 100% perfect everytime when building a frame, but I imagine there are those times when you may need to correct a problem rather than discarding the frame. Any fixits you've encountered that you'd like to pass along?
I do love these frames, Michael!
What do I do if I cannot afford a planer and/or table saw and the local Home Depot and Lowes do not offer 1-3/4 x 1/4 side panel wood? All I can find is 1-1/2 x 1/4.
*Update: Have you covered this topic on Patreon?
I have been painting with canvas, but have painted on 3/16 Masonite before and liked it too, and I could switch. I could use a thinner wood for the base-frame portion? It would be very helpful if you could write down the dimensions of wood, off the shelf wood, we could use if painting on either board or canvas. I understand ripping your own wood is much more affordable but not all of us can afford the expensive tools. Thanks for your great plien-air painting videos!
1. Build the frame using the off-the-shelf 1-1/2" x 1/4" for the sides, make the inner (back) portion of the frame with off the shelf 1/2" thick wood. 2. Using 3/16" panels, glue 3/4" thick strips on the back to make the cradle, so your painting will not be just over 7/8" thick. (The 3/16" hardboard panels are actually 0.155" or about 5/32", or midway between 1/8" and 3/16.") When mounted in the frame the top of the painting should be a whisker under 1/8" below the top of the frame. If you are using a 3/4" thick stretched canvas, glue some strips 1/8" thick at each of the corners, then the top of the canvas should be 1/8" below the top edge of the frame when mounted. Jon Peters has a video on making floaters with off the shelf wood from the lumber yard but I have not checked the details. ruclips.net/video/lSU5darREwc/видео.html
Fun to see this process step by step! Do you use progressively finer and finer grit sandpaper?
Yes, I use medium (80 grit) on the power sander and then a fine sanding sponge. 😊
Thank You For Your Valuable Tips In Refining This Framing Project. Your Honesty Represents True Character! A Bit Hard To Come By These Days!
Thanks Terri! 😊
I recommend this types of videos. Also Ty for the video 😇💛
Enjoying your videos. You are a good cabinetmaker. ( I was a professional cabinetmaker for a few decades) I happen to prefer a float frame over a typical ornate plein air frames- they look more contemporary to me.
My issue when traveling to a plein air festival is this: I like to carry a bunch of simple masonite panels to paint on- unstretched. If I am home this is no problem- I can add stretchers to the paintings i want to frame. But on the road, this is difficult under the time constraints. So how do i attach the panels to the float frames? They are too thin to screw into from the back. I have brought float frames i have made with integral stretchers, but then I have to glue in the panels, which is not really that satisfactory. Any suggestions?
Wondering if it's necessary to paint the sides of the canvas/panel (would it show ?)
I paint the sides of stretched canvas, not the panels. The panels are 3/16th of an inch thick so the sides are aren’t that visible.
Should the black paint be satin also, or flat? What do you find works best? Thanks!
Michael, Do you find gluing the outer pieces to be sufficient, and have you seen any issues sending framed work to drier climates where the wood moisture can shift? I know some videos show guys using a pin gun there. Really enjoy your videos and thanks for all the details you supply. Jake
I've never had any problems with the glue. I once tried to remove the outer pieces and it was impossible. I had to use the table saw and then ran them through the planer. Titebond will hold in any climate. I believe it's rated as an exterior glue so there's no way it's coming apart in someone's house.
Amazing work Mike...all those tools and machines are great. When I moved to France I took all my paintings off of their canvases, rolled them and put them in 2 plastic tubes (I also had to do all the paper work to export them)...so when I arrived I made all the canvanses again myself to mount the paintings...it was a pain in the ass (and hands literally lol, stretching properly the cotton or the linen was hell)...so now I just buy the complete canvases (primed cotton smoooth tooth) for a fair price and If I need to I just paint the border of the canvas. But it's because in here there's no need to present your paintings framed to the galleries or shops.
Thanks Martin!
Thanks for the great video Mark. I was wondering would it be the same process for framing an MDF board painting as opposed to a canvas painting?
Those frames are so beautiful! I don't have all those machines and I'm not sure I have the confidence to go for that kind of work. I bought some wood this summer but never got to try to make one!! So cool that you share your method! Cheers!
Another great video. Thanks. Please show how you secure the panel or canvas into the frame.
What are you doing at 4:22 drilling and then screwing the base frame. What size screws?
Beautiful frames! Do you ever change the frame's wood type based on the color scheme and feel of the painting?
Thanks! I've tried staining the wood with black stain and it looked good. Most people request the natural wood color so that's what I build the most of.
Ever consider a thicker square material equal to your current outside wall and cutting a wall and floor that would emulate the two piece assembly. For a panel, the first cut is 1/4" deep set for 1/4" off the fence. Flip 90 and plunge to this cut. Mitre and join. I did this with 3/4 pine thus the outer wall is 3/4.
What kind of black paint do you use? Latex or Acrylic?
I use acrylic
Hi. I watch Jon Peter's who is a woodworker. Now he makes his own frames for his art work and he's been doing that for 2 decades. I was watching him do different floating frames.
He actually paints his base frame and outer frame separately before assembling it.
Thanks for the inspiration!
This is such a useful demo ,thanks for sharing it and giving the specifics. Will you be back on RUclips and your Patreon channels after the New Year?
Hi, thank you so much for this video. Its so helpful. Can you explain how you determine dimensions for the "perimeter wood "?
BTW, where did you do that painting? Looks like Marshall Point, Maine. I have painted there.
I think I missed something...when you drilled and countersunk for screws on the base frame, did you plug the holes with dowels or did you fill with wood filler? Thanks in advance....
The holes get covered by the perimeter trim.
@@chamberlainpaintings OK...I see it now!
@@chamberlainpaintings wow have you edited this video recently because in the one I just watched there was no mention of countersinking the pan head screw which, as a cabinet maker, I thought strange. Good video though. Thank you
Great videos. For some years I have been making my own painting panels, canvass glued to baltic birch. Lots of steps. I like your frames and may add this to my to do list, but plien air painting, nearly every day is now my goal. At 72 years of age I need way more paintings under my belt. I do have a question. How do you attach your 1/8 inch panels to these floating frames? You mentioned this so quickly that I did not catch it. Like I said at the start, you do a great job with these videos and I hope to watch many more. Thanks.
I glue half inch thick wood to the perimeter, on the back of the panel. It’s called a cradle. I only do this with the paintings that work out
Thanks
@@agility62 I've heard that some artists would attach the half inch cradle pieces to the inside back of the base before applying the black paint and then use double sided tape on the back of the panel for temporary use. I think it might work for plain air.
Hi, just want to say that I hope all is well with one of my two favorite Tubers!
What thickness are your panels? If only 1/4" panels, how do you mount the panel into the frame? Thanks
Brilliant I love it ,, love the way you do it outside to loose the saw dust . I would love to do it
Thanks for posting. I am gearing up to frame a big 4ft x 3ft canvas art. I like your design best from what I've seen. Very streamlined. I tend to overdesign.
The frames look really good. You could quite easily sell them for artists Mike 👍🎨
Amazing video! What would be the best way to attach mdf board paintings to this?
I would glue a "cradle" to the back of the mdf so you have something to screw into.
@@chamberlainpaintings awesome! Thanks so much for taking the time to respond. Love your videos. Saw you just uploaded a video on this topic as well. Thanks again and keep up the great work!
I build a similar frame although I begin by attaching the "decorative" outer trim to the edge of the support molding before cutting the miters
Since I don’t paint, I am just here to wish you a great day and to support your channel ☺️
The frames look sharp. One thing I'd do though is glue the decorative and baseboards together first--like in long sections--then miter them together. You'd reduce the cuts and glue time by half. I do something similar for making canvas stretchers. There are some other comments murmuring about this, too.
Thanks! Gluing the decorative and the baseboards doesn't work for me. Have you tried it? You'd have to have perfect wood, no knots or imperfections, and good luck getting the miters on the decorative tight without traditional framing tools. I figure most of the murmurings about this are from people who haven't actually tried what they're suggesting. Cutting and gluing up the frames takes no time at all, it's the sanding and finishing that takes a lot of time!
I haven't made floating frames with method this but I made painting stretchers this way and it worked fine, but obviously minor blemishes are going to be hidden by the canvas. I used a band clamp for the miters and it did the job.
I might try this soon and I'll let you know if there are complications.
Yes, let me know how it goes!
Michael, always like your videos. I make my own panels from eigth inch Baltic Birch ply covered in Linen. They work great and now I want o make my own frames. Yours look excellent. I remain on clear on how to attach my panel to your frame. Clearly mine are not thick enough to receive a screw. I may use double sided tape. What is your process/ I can't see that step in your video. Thanks
Glue a cradle to the back of your panel to bring it to 3/4 inch. Then you can screw into the cradle from the back of the frame
@@chamberlainpaintings Not sure what a cradle would look like. Can you describe further?
@@SuperRickflick a cradle is simply thicker strips of wood glued along the back of the thin panel near its edges that allow screws to be used.
Thank you so much. Very useful info.
G'day Michael. I have been having a go at building some frames based on your process, and I am wondering more specifically about the process for painting the black inner portion of the frame as this part is where I'm struggling a bit.
You mention wiping away with a rag in order to obtain a sharp edge. I have tried this and it I am finding it quite tricky to get a sharp edge. I have also tried masking the face of the frame with tape and then painting the black, to varying results. Could you maybe give me some more detailed insight into how you achieve a clean edge there? Would be great to see how you do it in action, but I understand that's a big ask!
This is kind of late, and may not be helpful, but I wonder if you could use a squared off block with sandpaper attached and sand away that extra paint that may be left over on the front of the frame?
He says that the frame is polyurethane before using black acrylic paint. A trick I use when painting the edges of an acrylic painting is to dampen the front of the painting with water, paint the edge and then just wipe away any paint where it's not wanted.
@@ashleyschell7421 cheers for the idea! it could work if I was willing to sand back and do another coat of varnish, but I've already varnished by that point so it would be a little annoying I think. I have adapted my process now to one which I find works and will put it in a general reply below.
@@rduff1999 yes I was running into this issue after having already coated the frame with polyurethane varnish. Used damp rag as well. While I could get okay results it was realllllly tedious to get the kind of line I wanted. I have adapted my process now to one which I find works and will put it in a general reply below.
After a while of trial and error I have ended up adapting my process to one which works best for me, although it has one slight change to the design (which in the end I prefer).
I now paint the base inner part of the frame black with a couple of coats PRIOR to attaching the outer side pieces. This makes the painting part very simple.
I then attach the side pieces, and varnish over the top of the whole lot. (Making sure to easily wipe away any sanding dust present on the black portion with a damp paper towel before varnishing)
The difference in design I mention is that the inner sides of the outer pieces are no longer black, but a natural finish. The only black part is the inner frame, sitting behind the painting. In the end I preferred this look compared to having the black all the way around the inner edge. (I found that when looking at a framed painting from anywhere other than straight-on made it look like the painting was not centred in the frame, as I was seeing the black inner edge of one side, but not the other).
I've found this process to be a bit quicker, smoother, less fiddly, and I like the visual result a bit more. But to each their own :)
That's precisely I was looking form. Thank you very much. Greetings from Bogotá, Colombia!!!
Greetings! 😊
I’m just here to say SO HAPPY AND PROUD OF EMMA!l and CHAMBERLAIN COFFEE! ☕️🤯♥️ 🙌🏼. Hope all is well! Happy Holidays!!!
How do you attach the panel to the frame? Love your videos!
With pan head screws 😊👍
Yes new video
You are so clever Michael! I bought a couple of sawhorses and saws.
I frame all my paintings and framed 28 paintings last year for others. I sold unframed paintings to friends in the past and they sat on the floor unframed. That perturbed me so they all get frames. As time goes by it can get more fancier with experience.
I sometimes use canvas on panel ,do you frame those also ?
I only use gessoed panels, but you can frame a canvas panel the same way
Great video! Thanks 🙏🏼 a million !
wow, i dont think ive ever seen a floater frame. I totally want to do this.
Hey! Hope all is well with you. I just bought some Chamberlain Coffee and I’ve always wished making coffee could be as easy as using a teabag and I am beyond excited to find out how it goes! Also, I’m a 50 year old Emma stan (learned that word this year) and I swear I’m not embarrassed by that at ALL. It’s a MOOD! (Chamberlain Paintings stan as well of course but that is age appropriate so not as wack). 😂
Hey Amy! Just revisiting this video and noticed your comment. Hope you enjoyed your Chamberlain Coffee. I still haven't gotten any! Emma gave me a few bags back in December and I really liked it. I stan and it's definitely a big MOOD.
@@chamberlainpaintings haha! dude, low key, you NEED to get some! I want to share my experience with it: I'll start by saying I drink my coffee hot. Would love to carry around a mason jar with a straw and ice but I just don't swing that way. So, the first time I tried it, I didn't like it that much. I didn't dislike it, but I wasn't blown away. Then I ran out of my regular coffee and tried it again--THIS time I let it steep at least 8 minutes (I'd recommend 10) before adding milk/cream, and I took the bag out before pouring it in. Totally different and I LOVED it! I'm saving up for something right now and being careful with my spending, so I'm not drinking it every day, but it's great for travel and to switch things up. (I think it probably makes more coffee per pack for those who drink it cold and steep in the fridge...seems like you could get two days worth with one packet that way) I would HIGH KEY (wtf does that mean? LOL) buy some Chamberlain beans because I am obsessed with the flavor--I truly love it now that I've steeped it long enough. I realize I am not the target audience, but if there is any chance of selling the same beans used to make the packets, I would be so in and I'd make it my daily brew! My preferred method with beans is pour-over. Thank you for letting me share my current MOOD, which is good bc I just watched Emma's and Olivia's new vids! Is this the female Gen X version of a midlife crisis? Watching Gen Z videos? They make me so happy! About to watch your new one now and my Sunday night will be complete. :) Stanning is so fun!
@@amyarnelle I'm with you on wanting beans! I think that'll be the next product they roll out. I'm hooked on the Bialetti for making coffee and I need whole beans for that. I like pour over too.
You should try opening up the black area a tiny bit to reveal more black area and painting it with "vantablack" its equal is called "black 3.0" i believe it'll make your paintings pop even more
Search youtube for black 3.0 and jusr see how much light it absorbs its quite amazing .
@@ducksonthewall3331 Sorry I missed this comment! I'll check it out!
Why does it have to be a black paint to be painted on the back part frame
You could paint it any color you like.
So the outside piece is only glued , not pinned in any way ?
Just glue.😊👍
Thanks for the tips.
I notice you didn’t reinforce the decorative part of the frame with nails or screws. What about larger size frames, 36” x 36” or larger, is it still the same process? Thank you!
The glue is so strong it’s unnecessary 😊👍 even on large sizes
have u ever painted the dogs that would be so cute
I haven't tried to paint them, but maybe I will!
I do pet portraits and would love to see you do one of the dogs. Or Declan. :)
Isnt it cheaper time wise to just get a framer to do it for you?
A framer would cost 10X as much or more.
@@chamberlainpaintings ah cool, here in Sweden it might be a bit less expensive. I can get a 16x20 floater frame for about 50 dollars. do you have a video where you break down the costs? Id be very interested! Of course there is the initial investment in the machinery and tools, wood and most importantly, your time. But you of course have the flexibility to do whatever sizes and finishes you want, and whenever you want!
how do you attach painting that are on 1/4" hardwood panel?
Mounting tape
Newbie question: How is the strainer attached to the exterior frame?
Nice painting.
a true fav
I wish you had it also in centimeters! Thank you for the video!
Thank you!
If you have gaps just fill them with wood filler; you’re painting that area black anyway. Thanks for sharing!
My good man, why is your table saw so shaky?
Do you sell any frames?
yee
How do you attach a thin panel onto your floater frame?
Mounting tape
Nice al fresco workshop you have there, Dude. Must be a bummer when it rains. 😉 [Good frames, though]
Thanks 😊
I totally laughed when you were talking about the masking tape… whatever that colour is.
Nice, thanks
Another upload 🤭 yaaaaay 🥳
can I do a floater frame but with a glass front ? I have some work that I think would look good in a floater frame but I like to have my work behind glass. thanks and have a burrito for me.
The glass on a floater would be possible. Say it's 1/8" glass, the cut a groove (technically a dado) on the inside of the outer frame, say 1/8" deep and 1/8" from the top edge in all four side pieces and about 1/16" wider than the glass is thick. You would need to adjust other dimensions (taller side pieces or thinner cradle behind the panel) as needed to be sure that you had at least 1/8" clearance between the glass and the painting. But with very rare exceptions, glass is only used for works on paper (watercolors, etc.). I love watercolors, but find that the inevitable reflections can be distracting so like most other artists never put an oil or acrylic behind glass.
If you are a watercolorist you could glue the painting to a panel (there are special glues for that) and then proceed as above.
Hi Michael. You mentioned a cradle for panels when you're attaching them to your floater frames. How do you make the cradle? Thanks. Hope you had a Happy Thanksgiving and hope you have a great Christmas ahead.
The cradle is made the same way the base frame is made. I then glue it to the back of my masonite panels with liquid nails adhesive. Hope you have a great Christmas as well!
@@chamberlainpaintings Thanks, Michael.
@@chamberlainpaintings so liquid nails is all that is holding the panel to the frame? Have you had the panel fall out Before?
Thank you, thank you and thrice thank you.
Thanks for sharing