Thank you! I followed your advice and it worked perfectly. Tedious work but, all removed with tools you mentioned and 99% isopropyl alcohol. Thanks so much.
What an absolute Legend you are, not only did you post all the details for the parts and scenatics in the comments, but you even follow it up with this. I dropped my moms amp today and one of these resistors got pierced. You saved me so much time. Thank you a lot!
thanks for posting m8 i am still waiting for the last parts hope it works. glad I replaced the fans as well one of them was running very slow when I bench-tested it
Hello. Thanks so much for the video on yamaha aax6207r amplifier. I have to replace the same two mosfets. How did you remove the white fixating compound around the two mosfets? Thank you so much for your help.
That white stuff has rubbery texture but it is pretty dense, so you need to be patient, careful and persistent in removing it piece by piece. I used exacto knife to cut it up, and precision long nose pliers to remove it bit by bit. I also used a small pick hook to pry it. In the end I cleaned up the board with q-tip and rubbing alcohol. It will come off, but be extra careful not to damage the good components or the board when using tools. Good luck!
Sure! Both amp modules are identical (and swappable). Can you see any markings, number etc., on the board? Could you compare the two modules and identify the corresponding markings on the other one?
@@davemac01able-eu3nn Since I got no pictures of your amp, I can't help. Sorry. But you may get lots of really good practical help in electronics forums such as "badcaps forum" of "eevblog forum" where you can share the pics. You could also post link there to this video, so the guys would know what amp you talk about. Good luck!
Hello, great video. It is the exact issue I have for our church unit. I can clearly see the .56 ohm resistor is bad. Does that mean the mosfet is bad also? If I test the mosfet while still installed will I get an accurate test? My cooling fan is bad which I'm sure is the root of the problem. Thanks, Bill
That resistor is 0.056, not 0.56 The two mosfets - if fried - will be likely shorted to zero Ohms between all 3 pins, which will show on the Ohmmeter without removing them from the board. The failing or failed fan would cause the overheating of the output modules, it will need a new fan of the same size and voltage. In my experience, the greatest challenge can be soldering without damage to the densely situated traces. Whoever does it needs to have good experience in PCB soldering. Good luck!
@@tektech1065 Thanks for the reply, Yes .056. I ordered the components on ebay. I just installed them and it still is not working correctly. If I only plug in the amp I repaired, it stays powered up until I shut it off. If I turn it back on it wont power up unless I unplug it for about 30 seconds. The amp that was good works fine by itself. If I install both amps, it trips the solid state circuit breaker. I tried both amps by themselves in both positions. No difference. Any ideas? Thanks, Bill
@@nancymccormick5809 Hello Bill. From what you described, it might be a failing electrolytic capacitor in the switched mode power supply. They can be tricky to diagnose if you don't have a ESR in-circuit tester. Look for small size high voltage caps. In the Service Manual, page 50 you will find the power supply diagram. I would leave the large 390 uF 200V caps (C804 and C808) in place and look to replace the smaller ones: C810, C814, and C819. You will find the Service Manual just by googling STAGEPAS 300 SERVICE MANUAL PDF Good luck!
Thank you! I followed your advice and it worked perfectly. Tedious work but, all removed with tools you mentioned and 99% isopropyl alcohol. Thanks so much.
What an absolute Legend you are, not only did you post all the details for the parts and scenatics in the comments, but you even follow it up with this. I dropped my moms amp today and one of these resistors got pierced.
You saved me so much time. Thank you a lot!
thanks for posting m8 i am still waiting for the last parts hope it works. glad I replaced the fans as well one of them was running very slow when I bench-tested it
Hi TecTech! Just wanted to see if my Stagepas 300 power amp problem pictures were received by you. Thank you.
Hello. Thanks so much for the video on yamaha aax6207r amplifier. I have to replace the same two mosfets. How did you remove the white fixating compound around the two mosfets? Thank you so much for your help.
That white stuff has rubbery texture but it is pretty dense, so you need to be patient, careful and persistent in removing it piece by piece. I used exacto knife to cut it up, and precision long nose pliers to remove it bit by bit. I also used a small pick hook to pry it. In the end I cleaned up the board with q-tip and rubbing alcohol. It will come off, but be extra careful not to damage the good components or the board when using tools.
Good luck!
Tek Tech thanks so much for the video and schematic. I have a part I can't identify on the right amp module. Would you be able to help? Thanks
Sure! Both amp modules are identical (and swappable). Can you see any markings, number etc., on the board? Could you compare the two modules and identify the corresponding markings on the other one?
Tek Tech I forgot to mention the suspect part is near 1604 on the Power amp module.
I can't identify the blown part. Thanks for the help.
@@davemac01able-eu3nn Since I got no pictures of your amp, I can't help. Sorry. But you may get lots of really good practical help in electronics forums such as "badcaps forum" of "eevblog forum" where you can share the pics. You could also post link there to this video, so the guys would know what amp you talk about. Good luck!
@@tektech1065 Thank you for your advice on checking markings on board and checking with electronic forums.
Hello, great video. It is the exact issue I have for our church unit. I can clearly see the .56 ohm resistor is bad. Does that mean the mosfet is bad also? If I test the mosfet while still installed will I get an accurate test? My cooling fan is bad which I'm sure is the root of the problem. Thanks, Bill
That resistor is 0.056, not 0.56
The two mosfets - if fried - will be likely shorted to zero Ohms between all 3 pins, which will show on the Ohmmeter without removing them from the board. The failing or failed fan would cause the overheating of the output modules, it will need a new fan of the same size and voltage. In my experience, the greatest challenge can be soldering without damage to the densely situated traces. Whoever does it needs to have good experience in PCB soldering.
Good luck!
@@tektech1065 Thanks for the reply, Yes .056. I ordered the components on ebay. I just installed them and it still is not working correctly. If I only plug in the amp I repaired, it stays powered up until I shut it off. If I turn it back on it wont power up unless I unplug it for about 30 seconds. The amp that was good works fine by itself. If I install both amps, it trips the solid state circuit breaker. I tried both amps by themselves in both positions. No difference. Any ideas? Thanks, Bill
@@nancymccormick5809 Hello Bill. From what you described, it might be a failing electrolytic capacitor in the switched mode power supply. They can be tricky to diagnose if you don't have a ESR in-circuit tester. Look for small size high voltage caps. In the Service Manual, page 50 you will find the power supply diagram. I would leave the large 390 uF 200V caps (C804 and C808) in place and look to replace the smaller ones: C810, C814, and C819.
You will find the Service Manual just by googling STAGEPAS 300 SERVICE MANUAL PDF
Good luck!
thank mr,,,,,,,,,
Hi Tek Tech! Do you have a part # for the 0.056 ohm 3134 & 3101 resistors. Where did you order them from and what is the wattage rating. Thanks
I put the info in description under the video, when you click on "...more"
Resistor 0.056 Ohm is 1W, part nr. 311-0.056TCT-ND from DigiKey