Upgrade to LED Shop Lighting!
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- Опубликовано: 26 авг 2024
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This video was made two years ago for our second channel. No one saw it. So I'm bringing it to the main channel. :)
When I selected the lighting for the Dream Shop, T8 fluorescent lights were the obvious choice. LED technology existed but was still cost prohibitive. Even two years after the build I considered retrofitting the space with LED bulbs and once again I couldn't justify the cost. But in 2017 (five years after the initial Dream Shop build), it's a whole different story! I'm now in a new space in Colorado and I have the opportunity to install completely new fixtures and these days it seems like LED is really the way to go.
We're working exclusively with American Green Lights who designed and supplied our lighting solution: www.americangre...
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Yes, this video is 2 years old. I originally published it on our second channel but brought it here for more folks to see. If you're considering LED options in your shop, don't miss our article: www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/led-shop-lighting/
They have significantly updated LED light options Since this video 2 years ago.
Very well done, presented in terms that we can understanding while introducing the technical side of lighting design. From this his old Architect's perspective pretending to be a luthier...Two thumbs up!
I added American Green lights also, based on your recommendation. They (Jim Uno)took the time to map out the placement of the lights which was very helpful. Love them! Thanks.
LED lighting is great. My garage sucked when working in it until I put 10 5000k lights in my garage for 85,000 lumens, 50,000k. You walk in there from the dark and it's intense. I'm happy with it because now I can see everything.
In setting up my new shop (12 x 24 portable garage) I installed 3 American Green Light LED 2 strip lights. The lighting is fantastic. I did some research and choose American Green Lights in part because of this video. I also choose American Green Lights as I also started my own RUclips channel. Thanks Marc.
I converted my wood working shop to LED lighting and it is amazing how much brighter this bulb is. My local electric company helped by paying a portion of the bill for the conversion. The color balance is incredible. I highly recommend LED bulbs.
One thing that a lot of places don’t have is light sources at workbench height. That way you get less shaddows and you can shine a light underneath workbenches and on vertical surfaces.
I upgraded my shop with led’s a few months ago. One of the best upgrades I have ever done. Harbor freight has a great led fixture with 5000 lumens that replaces 4 fluorescent tubes with much better light. They plug onto a regular outlet so after insulation you can move them around any time. Similar fixtures are available on Amazon with the extra bonus of being able to link many fixtures together on a single outlet. Well worth the time and money.
Just completed my workshop. I had 20 5ft fluorescents costing me a fortune to run. But as you said up until recently led not really an option. Now here in the UK you can purchase an exact replica of the Florescent tube in Led. All you do is remove the cover and bye pass the ballast, and wire direct to one end cap ignoring the other, then fit the new led. It took me about 15mins per light fitting. I am delighted.
I think I've watched this video some time ago. I use the information that you gave at my job, daily. This was probably the very best explanation of LEDs and lighting that I've run into. Thank you.
Some dimmable panel lights are configured to require an extra set of wires for the 0-volt dimmer controller. There are panel lights designed to not require the extra wires to be installed. The specifications need to be carefully read. The units with the 0-10 volt dimmers wires may cost less, but there is an installation consideration..
Thanks for this! I'm in the process of converting a small barn at the house I just bought into my shop. This will definitely come in useful!
This was really interesting, even for a guy like me that isn't a novice at lighting. Well done.
I’ve always wanted to get my shop onto adjustable temperature LEDs.
I just think it’ll be massively handy to finish a board and be able to see what it looks like in a bunch of different conditions without moving around
For ultra high quality finishes and particularly matching finishes, I have a setup with several different types of lights that can be turned on and off individually. This lets me test out how finishes look under different bulbs, which is important when matching finish in an existing kitchen or similar.
When I used to work in a refinishing shop that sort of thing was a huge concern. Your setup sounds pretty slick.
The Wood Whisperer I actually inherited the system from the previous owner and put it in storage since I didn’t use it enough for the space. It’s essentially a half dozen different can lights each with a different bulb in them. They are mounted on a piece of plywood about 12”x72” that can mount or hang from the ceiling. My finish room is lit like an automotive paint booth. In there, the light is great for seeing flaws, runs, and texture but almost too direct and bright to see actual color.
I’ve had one project that was tricky with the color due to the placement of a light in the ceiling in relation to the inside corner of crown moulding we were matching. Since it was on a different angle, the new paint looked different on the new crown vs the old crown even though it matched else where. It’s a rabbit hole, certainly.
there are LED fixtures with adjustable color temperature now
Thank you. This is very helpful information.
I helped my parents repaint their two car garage walls stark white and then they purchased two large 360 corn cob LED bulbs...the lumens are what I imagine standing on the surface of the sun might be like.
Do you think I should be concerned about the IP rating of the light fixtures? Mainly for protection from dust.
Great info here. CRI was a new one for me, I'll definitely be able to use that later. Personally, I've always felt that color temperature is counter-intuitive. The higher the temp, the cooler the color. Have to remember to keep that straight when I'm looking at bulbs. Thanks for sharing (again)!
Look for the fixtures with a light diffuser otherwise they will "blind you" if you should look up at them the ones that Marc shows in his image are the ones to avoid, having said that the video is 2 years old and most now come with a diffuser.
My understanding is thatwhen people retrofit a fluorescent shop light, there is no savings in electrical costs unless they remove the ballast. Perhaps you could do a video addressing this issue and how to modify the shop lights or at least make sure you are not naivelyputting LED bulbs in a fluorescent fixture that will use the same electricity the old fluorescent bulbs did. I followed various RUclips videos, cutting out the ballast and rewiring, but only a couple of them actually worked, and some fried the bulbs. The retrofit bulbs vary in terms of whether they have both contacts at one end, or one on each end etc
Mark Young you are correct! I am just been though what you are talking about! Our church did a lamp change about 2 years ago! The led lights were changed with out taking out the ballast! Well you are right cost savings was low . Lamp life is being shortened. Soooo.... here we are going back and taking out all of the ballasts and fixing the problem. Fortunately we don’t have to buy new lamps the ones we have can be changed to direct feed, to the voltage of the power feeding the lights. We have had about 10 to 12 lamps fell . But the company is giving us new one because they are under warranty..
Just thought you might like to know thanks BobLee
There are three categories of LED tubes as classified by UL. Type A, B, and C.
"Type A" tubes are called "ballast compatible" or "plug-n-play" tubes. They are installed in the fixture by leaving in the ballast (electronic ballast for T8s, not magnetic ballasts for T12s), and just replacing the fluorescent tube with the LED tube. This is the simplest for installation, but least efficient, as the tubes have an internal LED driver and the ballast also uses some electricity. A "type A" 18 watt LED tube operates on 18 Watts, but operating through the ballast consumes 25-26 watts of electricity. The original T8 consumes 32 Watts of electricity, so the savings is only 18.7% by doing this type of conversion. The LED tube has a driver built in and also the ballast has electronics that can fail, resulting in more potential failure points.
"Type B" tubes are referred to as "direct wire" or "Bypass" tubes. This type requires removing the ballast, and connecting the AC wires directly to the "tombstone" lampholders. An 18 Watt tube will use 18 Watts of electricity and will save 43.75% electricity. The downside of bypass tubes is that there are 12 different ways they can be wired (live and neutral on opposite ends, live and neutral on same end with different pins, AC on one end with 0-10V dimming on other end, 120V Triac dimmable tubes, 240V Triac dimmable tubes, etc) , and in the future, if any tube needs to be replaced, you need to be sure to use the same type tube requiring same wiring, or you can have severe problems. Also, since the tube has an internal LED driver built into the tube, the heat of the LEDS and the heat of the driver combined will reduce the driver lifetime.
"Type C" tubes have an external driver. You remove the fluorescent tubes and replace with LED, and replace the ballast with an LED driver. The Driver is then wired to the tombstones. This is the most efficient and long lasting of LED tubes, as the external driver will last longer and the LEDs will also last longer due to the two separate heat dissipation points. Plus there is no internal LED driver in the tube. You need to match the driver wattage to the number of tubes attached, but this is the most efficient. Some of these tubes can save as much as 65% to 75% compared to Fluorescent. The type C tubes are more expensive than type A or type B, but generally last 2-3 times longer, and the drivers can be replaced if necessary.
We at American Green Lights have all three types available and also have retrofit kits that have are similar to Type C, but does not require the tombstone connectors, allowing them to be used in all types of applications, not just to replace fluorescent tubes. Tubes are generally 80-85 CRI whereas our retrofit kits are 95 CRI for color accuracy.
Hope the above information about LED tubes is helpful.
So 89,500 total lumens ! Wow does looking at the sun become a little disappointing lol
I’m currently redoing my 2 car garage/shop and theoretically will have 62,500 lumens if I installed all the bulbs... we’ll see :)
Is the ductwork running underneath the lights a shadow problem? Trying to decide if I run my ductwork above or below my lights
We just did a similar upgrade in our shop a few months back. Though the lighting was a little dim and thought, plywouldn't I?
I hope the lightbulb in the mouth is a reference to Uncle Fester.
Sometimes camera sensors pick up completely unexpected colors. Here's an example: randomer.net/stuff/sodium-polyacrylate-brains.jpg The beaker with what looks orange in the photo was actually pink! It's a mix of propylene glycol and water with a drop of food coloring. In the spoon was sodium polyacrylate beads that I'd soaked for a couple days. It was one of the tests I did for making freezer packs. I ended up using 40/60 (the blue one) instead of 60/40 because water is a lot cheaper than propylene glycol.
Oh, and FWIW... a comparison of sodium polyacrylate beads before and after soaking in distilled water: randomer.net/stuff/sodium-polyacrylate.jpg
I remember this video!! I found this video two years ago when I was putting lights up in my shed!! Still good 😃 👍
I usually stick with around 4K for lighting in the house. I cannot stand 3k lighting at all. Feels like you are in a dingy smoky bar. In the shop I try to stay around 5500k. The problem is that many lights you find that are rated at 5500k and a high CRI are not even close to their rated outputs. If you want real ratings don't go with the cheap stuff go with a reputable brand.
I prefer Cree LED bulbs. I've replaced over 100 bulbs in the house. I use the 5000k color temperature.
You saying people don't know about WW offcuts and The Woodworking Morning Show?!
I have an older house I'm assuming I have old wiring and old everything so adding LED bulbs causes them to flicker depending on the brand some flicker really hard and make everything look like stop promotion some of my switches buzz the lights themselves buzz and even LEDs that are dimmable only dim to about 70% of their full output. Help.
iComplainer you often need special dinners for LEDs. I’d hire an electrician though.
A lot of times the issue with LEDs comes down to the switches that control them. Newer switches could solve your problems. But I'm not the right guy to ask about electrical issues so definitely talk to an electrician.
Step one is to check your bulbs. LED's come in 1 of 2 options. Dimmable and non dimmable. If you have non dimmable bulbs, you can not have them on a dimmer at all. Either replace the dimmers with proper switches, or switch the bulbs to a dimmable variety.
Second is if you want dimmable lights and have dimmable bulbs, you want to have the correct dimmer. Make sure it says specifically for LED lights. If you are still having problems, understand that there are 2 types of dimmers. Electronic dimmers and magnetic dimmers. The dimmer needs to be compatible with the driver. A magnetic dimmer for a magnetic driver and vice versa.
Also some dimmers have some adjustment levers. Take the cover plate off to revel them. They are meant to limit the voltage coming out of the dimmer. Turning them up will allow more voltage and get a lot closer to full brightness.
Wait, I saw this before
I thought the same thing.
Ludwig Friedrich Hmm that’s weird.
Are you @medlifecrisis's craftsman brother?
I see that you have two other channels listed on your main page, but they are both live streams. Is it one of them that is the second channel you're referring to?
Autotech1 yes. The channel we called Offcuts is really only used for our live Morning Show now. That’s the channel I was referring to.
Isn't this on the amazon series as well?
Yes it is.
I watched this when it first came out, and good refresher info Marc! I bought some T8 LED retrofit tubes a while back and I'm about halfway through coverting. Heck I may even make a video showing one conversion lol. I'm curious, if American Green Lights mentioned, how much ceiling height played into lumen ratings. e.g need more lumens with a 12' ceiling vs not as much needed for 8'. - Jim
The ceiling height will affect the decision on the wattage of fixture and placement location. higher ceilings can use higher wattage fixtures spaced further apart. Lower ceilings will require lower wattage fixtures, but more of them for uniformity.
Light intensity is measured in foot-candles (lumens per square foot) or Lux (lumens per square meter). Many other factors affect the light intensity including light distribution pattern of the fixture (beam angle, light pattern shape, etc). High wattage fixtures will create more hot spots directly under the fixtures and are good if you are trying to optimize above major work areas. Lower wattage fixtures in higher quantity will be better for uniformity in low ceiling applications. Many things to consider. Shadows, uniformity vs targeted light intensity, etc. We do lighting simulations to determine intensity at specific locations in the room and work surfaces so you can make the best decisions in lighting the space. Feel free to contact us for advice.
Jim Uno good info thanks!
The best lighting option is a type of fluorescent light made by philips called T9 Graphics. They fit into t9 socket and produce a spectrum of light, that very closely resembles actual sunlight. Even better than halogen bulbs etc.
LEDs still suck imho, since even though tje color is adjustable, their light spectrum still sucks and therefore the colors look washed out. Also, leds lose power over time which sucks.
I upgraded my shop to LED about 2 years ago.
You have another channel on RUclips?
Hahaha
old, really has nothing to do with wood
Still play Warcraft ? ;)
LED FTW! Dude, you are looking skinny.
False... I watched it already, at least twice... :-p
👍👍👍👍
😃👍🏻💡👊🏻
$5,000 later Oh, yes the life of a RUclipsr.
I'm not a RUclipsr. I'm a woodworker that makes videos. ;) And the estimated cost of my setup is about $1900.
Yeah, The life of someone who works hard and shares all their research and efforts with everybody.
Patreon...
WARNING: LED Lighting is bad for you. Stick with the T-8s. Sometimes looking into the sun isn't fun! Don't believe me (because you don't want to) and research all aspects of lighting and not just how bright it is or how cost effective. Think of your health too.
Hi JF. Please look into the actual research and facts and you will find the LEDs are much safer than fluorescent, whether T8, T5, T12, CFL or CCFL. Fluorescent tubes use electricity excite the mercury in the tubes to create UV-C light (very dangerous-used to kill microorganisms an sterilize laboratories). The UV-C then excites the phosphor coating on the glass of the tube to "flouresce" or glow to produce the visible light. The different type of phosphors glow different colors and are mixed to create the "white" light. Many poor quality fluorescents will have micro-pores and flaws in the phosphor coating that allow pure UV-C to escape, creating a dangerous environment.
LEDs begin with blue LEDs in the 450-500nm range, way beyond the UV range. Much safer than UV. The phosphors then are blended to create the white light. The phosphors for LEDs are used in much smaller quantities, so the blending of better phosphors will allow a more full spectrum light for better color accuracy than fluorescent. Hooe this helps!
@@JimFUno Hi, research both LED and fluorescent and you'll find both can harm human health. There are variables. You must break and poorly handle a fluorescent to contact mercury. etc. You weigh the odds of each. I found LED to be more harmful. At least fluorescent stood the test of time.
@@JF-fx2qv You should post the research you feel is important for us to know.