Excellent video - I was searching for one to recommend to a DIYer, and found it on the first click. Years ago when I owned a Brit Car restoration shop, I was replacing two or more roadster windscreens every month, I discovered that 64-67 Chevelle/Monte Carlo fender bolts make for easy windscreen frame installation. The factory GM fasters are phosphate coated, 3/8 x 16 x 1-1/2" long, with a captive but rotatable washer AND a pointed shank end that makes aligning the threads to the windshield frame so much easier than the stock square ended bolts. and - as anyone who has stuffed a socket with paper to get it to push against a bolt knows - the captive bearing style washer makes for easy thread engagement without binding, especially when compressing a new body to frame gasket.
I have found that by loosely installing/starting the bottom bolt on each side first it is easier for the installation. I then loosely install/start the two smaller 7/16 bolts. I then pull back on the windshield to insert and loosely install the top bolts on each side. You then use the side door window posts to help align the windshield back into the correct position as I do the final tightening of the all the bolts.
I enjoy your videos very much, I've heard of the windscreen refit issues but will have to miss out on that particular fun, having GT. Beautiful car, in and under.
As far as I recall is this the first time that I see you struggling with a job. I wouldn't fancy doing this job on an old MGB if it is already so much trouble on a well-maintained car like yours.
It's a job I know a lot of owners dislike, the roll car in my car helps to support the screen when refitting but makes access to the upper bolt very difficult.
Great to see how this tricky job can be handled. But I was also interested to see a fuse box mounted internally. Is this for the whole car or just the additional race electronics?
Many thanks for your message Manek, I made a complete new wiring loom for the car a few years ago, and added 3 internal fuse boxes each with breaker type blade fuses. I wanted all of the car circuits to be fused individually more like a modern vehicle. It does make finding issues very easy and with the breaker type fuses they can just be pushed to be reset rather than needing to be changed.
Hi David - I hope never to take the windscreen off mine again, but if I do then this will be a great resource! On a different subject, from all your videos the bodywork on yours looks absolutely perfect both topside and underneath - I have just embarked on our second MG, a BGT and I would be interested to know what you did when restoring your body shell - sandblasting / chemical strip, what was replaced, how you got that lovely rear valance made and finishing / paintwork?
Many thanks for your very kind message David, I know the windscreen job is one most owners hate, I feel I was quite lucky with mine this time around. With regards to the shell, I bought it as a second hand heritage shell that had been partially built up. There was a lot of underseal/stone chip underneath that all had to come off. I started by hand with a hot air gun but soon got fed up so I had the whole shell dipped and e-coated. I believe this is just about the best way to start, you should have no rust and a very tough undercoat/primer to work with. The rear valance is a custom made aluminium one riveted straight to the body. It took a long time and a fair bit of filler to get it right. The paint is a 2K direct gloss rather than clear over base. I like the direct gloss as I feel it is more similar to the original cellulose finish the car would have, it's also very easy to touch in if it gets stone chips and minor damage. There are more details about the car here www.britishracecar.com/DavidRussellWilks-MG-MGB.htm
Thanks, i do have trouble fitting my hand behind the dashboard. Whenever i try and squeeze my hand in, when i pull my hand out i got scratches all over haha
Excellent video - I was searching for one to recommend to a DIYer, and found it on the first click. Years ago when I owned a Brit Car restoration shop, I was replacing two or more roadster windscreens every month, I discovered that 64-67 Chevelle/Monte Carlo fender bolts make for easy windscreen frame installation. The factory GM fasters are phosphate coated, 3/8 x 16 x 1-1/2" long, with a captive but rotatable washer AND a pointed shank end that makes aligning the threads to the windshield frame so much easier than the stock square ended bolts. and - as anyone who has stuffed a socket with paper to get it to push against a bolt knows - the captive bearing style washer makes for easy thread engagement without binding, especially when compressing a new body to frame gasket.
Many thanks Mark, those bolts seem like a dream come true and ideal for the job. I will see if I can find some in the UK.
Always look forward to seeing each and everyone of your videos. Thank you.
Many thanks!
Well done. The most fiddly job to tackle 😂
Perfect timing!
Many thanks Aidas, I hope it helps. If you need a video on screen removal there is one here ruclips.net/video/AiMfsiX_RhM/видео.html
Thank you to everyone that joined for me for the premiere, it was the first time I have tried it.
I have found that by loosely installing/starting the bottom bolt on each side first it is easier for the installation. I then loosely install/start the two smaller 7/16 bolts. I then pull back on the windshield to insert and loosely install the top bolts on each side. You then use the side door window posts to help align the windshield back into the correct position as I do the final tightening of the all the bolts.
Man thanks so much and congrats for the 4K subscribers. I maintain my B thanks to your videos!!!!
Many thanks Mariano!
Thank You David!
I enjoy your videos very much, I've heard of the windscreen refit issues but will have to miss out on that particular fun, having GT. Beautiful car, in and under.
Many thanks Lance, glad you like them!
We yanks love spending time in your "gah-rahge". :)
As far as I recall is this the first time that I see you struggling with a job. I wouldn't fancy doing this job on an old MGB if it is already so much trouble on a well-maintained car like yours.
It's a job I know a lot of owners dislike, the roll car in my car helps to support the screen when refitting but makes access to the upper bolt very difficult.
Great to see how this tricky job can be handled. But I was also interested to see a fuse box mounted internally. Is this for the whole car or just the additional race electronics?
Many thanks for your message Manek, I made a complete new wiring loom for the car a few years ago, and added 3 internal fuse boxes each with breaker type blade fuses. I wanted all of the car circuits to be fused individually more like a modern vehicle. It does make finding issues very easy and with the breaker type fuses they can just be pushed to be reset rather than needing to be changed.
Hi David - I hope never to take the windscreen off mine again, but if I do then this will be a great resource! On a different subject, from all your videos the bodywork on yours looks absolutely perfect both topside and underneath - I have just embarked on our second MG, a BGT and I would be interested to know what you did when restoring your body shell - sandblasting / chemical strip, what was replaced, how you got that lovely rear valance made and finishing / paintwork?
Many thanks for your very kind message David, I know the windscreen job is one most owners hate, I feel I was quite lucky with mine this time around.
With regards to the shell, I bought it as a second hand heritage shell that had been partially built up. There was a lot of underseal/stone chip underneath that all had to come off. I started by hand with a hot air gun but soon got fed up so I had the whole shell dipped and e-coated. I believe this is just about the best way to start, you should have no rust and a very tough undercoat/primer to work with.
The rear valance is a custom made aluminium one riveted straight to the body. It took a long time and a fair bit of filler to get it right. The paint is a 2K direct gloss rather than clear over base. I like the direct gloss as I feel it is more similar to the original cellulose finish the car would have, it's also very easy to touch in if it gets stone chips and minor damage.
There are more details about the car here www.britishracecar.com/DavidRussellWilks-MG-MGB.htm
hi david, i am struggling with taking out the meters. Any tips or tricks for us with bigger hands?
For the tacho you might be able to turn it to access knurled bolts on either side once one is lose. I don't have a tip for the fuel gauge though.
Thanks, i do have trouble fitting my hand behind the dashboard. Whenever i try and squeeze my hand in, when i pull my hand out i got scratches all over haha
If I don’t see you struggling to get that lower gasket on like I did I’m unsubscribing 🤣
I hate to say it Ryan, I re-used the one that was on the car already...