A note I should point out. Make sure you leave the wires and still reconnect the harness to the pcb. It's still used for video signal and controls!!!! Don't remove wires!!!
Just thought I’d give an update. The power supply on my Ms. Pac-Man board had gone bad many months ago, and after following the steps on this video (and running a Field Ground wire to ground), today she is back up and running! This video helped me understand how simple the process really is. Thanks again Matt!
I have a quick question. I have an original Mrs Pac Man main board and I also have this power supply. If I plan on going with a LCD monitor with converter there is no need for any transformers at all, correct? I mean, everything I need to Coin detection, Joysticks, etc.. will be ok with the main board and the supplied ground or DC voltage references at the edge connector, right?
Correct if you are going with both a switching power supply like in this video, as well as an LCD monitor, you can eliminate both transformers at the bottom on the cab
@@GalaxyGames843 Super awesome! Thank you kind Sir. Can you recommend a good source (possibly a schematic) that I can reference when building my own edge connector harness? Thanks again :o)
At 7:25 you said in or out doesn’t matter. Isn’t the point of the isolation transformer to isolate the monitor from everything and you should ABSOLUTLEY not connect the PS to the output side?
So on my board, the +5V pad and GND at the edge connector have continuity according to my multimeter. I'm measuring 120 ohms. Is this normal? It seems this will just short the power supply so I don't want to connect it. I will preface that the board had some kind of damage to it prior and but was still working. The previous owner bypassed the 12/5/GND on the edge connector and connected directly to the harness (yes, they cut the wires). Not sure if I was the "hair" when I pulled it from the machine.
@@GalaxyGames843 Yes. Same pad next to the heatsink. I was surprised I kept getting a tone from the meter. There is no connection between the adjacent points on the edge connector. Only short I can tell is the one between the +5 and the GND. +12 (near the diodes) is fine.
I’m picked up a pac man cocktail table that had issues and I’m trying to resurrect it and I believe I’m having power supply issues. Is it possible to add pics here to show what is going on?
Looking into converting my nintendo vs red tent to a switched power supply. Any advice on what kind of unit to use and how to do it would be nice. Thanks 👍.
That should honestly be even easier. The nintendo vs manual has a wiring diagram. It should tell you exactly what each wire is (+5, +12, etc) to know how to connect it to the switching power supply
How did you eliminte the hum bar? I put the same type of switching power supply (kit from Arcadeshop) in my Galaga and get extreme hum sound. I never took the fuses out. Will that help?
Quick question for you. I wired up a 60 in 1 jamma to a power supply just like this in my ms pac cabinet. Now when I power up, monitor powers up and power supply does as well, but no power to marquee lights or credit button, etc. thoughts on what I messed up? Thanks!
The coin door lights run off of the old transformer - so removing the fuses will remove power to those. The marquee lights however should not be affected. You may want to check your bulb, starter, and ballast
I know this is a couple years old but a couple questions for you. Do I need to use molex connectors for the 5/12 or can I use spade connectors for everything like you did with the ground? Wasn't sure if there was a reason or just what you had on hand. Also if I purchased the 60n1 pcb and wired it like this, instead of the original pcb, would that work. I'd have to put in a new monitor, would the games orientation flip correctly with a cocktail table or would I need to choose a side to face the screen and have no more 2 player? So excited to try this, my neighbor purchased a Ms pacman cocktail table 10 years ago and has never got it running, I recently purchased it and am working on it. I'm gonna replace the fuse bed first, if that doesn't fix it, I'm going to try this. Unfortunately when plugged in with all safety switches and power switches where they need to be, it shows no sign of life. Hoping fuses or power supply will help and it's not a deeper issue. I unfortunately am very new to this whole thing and have no idea how to actually test my way through the machine to see where the power stops.
Molex isn't needed for it to function. You could use spade connectors if you wrap them with electrical tape so that they don't touch each other. As far as a 60 in 1 it uses a jamma harness, so you would either need an adapter or a whole new harness to re-wire it with
@@GalaxyGames843 so back in the day we use to touch our coin to the door and the static discharge would reset the game. I just picked up a package and of you let the game sit and flip the coin lever for a credit it will spark and reset the game. It will do it if you touch the door also. It does not happen everytime and it does it on both boards I own.
That stops power from running to the edge connector on the PCB. Remember this mod bypasses the edge connector for power, but you still have to leave it connected for video audio and controls
@@GalaxyGames843 ok, I just installed this: mikesarcade.com/estore/datasheets/PSK-PAC.pdf and it didn’t mention removing fuses so I was wondering if that might be something I needed to do.
This was the how-to video I needed. I have two dead Pac-Man’s and one dead Ms. Pac-Man. Gonna install the switching power supply and see if that fixes the problem. I just wish you showed how you installed your molex connector.
I doubt this would would work for a baby pac pinball. I'd have to look at the internals of a baby pac to confirm, but I'm sure it uses a different PCB.
That's one way to do it, but if you don't want to modify your pcb or are not proficient at soldering I suggest this kit. I have used it in multiple machines and it works great and gets rid of the common problems. 10 min install easy peasy. www.arcadeshop.com/i/932/midway-power-supply-kit-3.htm
GalaxyGames843 thanks sorry for all the questions . We just recently picked up an original pacman game also . Everything works but just looking to make it more reliable . So basically this bypasses the main transformer and fuses and powers the board etc but the other isolation transformer stays in tact for the monitor . Am I in the ballpark here ? Lol
A note I should point out. Make sure you leave the wires and still reconnect the harness to the pcb. It's still used for video signal and controls!!!! Don't remove wires!!!
I can’t find the on button on my friends and he’s not home to show me
@@thatonekid4359 pacman power button is on the top rear of the cab
Great video. Wish all arcade repair videos were this straight forward and well narrated. I have subscribed.
Thank you! Im about to start working on a 720! I appreciate the comment!
Just thought I’d give an update. The power supply on my Ms. Pac-Man board had gone bad many months ago, and after following the steps on this video (and running a Field Ground wire to ground), today she is back up and running! This video helped me understand how simple the process really is. Thanks again Matt!
That's outstanding! Glad it helped!
This brought my Mrs Pac back from the dead. You're the best, I don't care what Thadd says about you...
Lol glad it helped you!!!!
I have a quick question. I have an original Mrs Pac Man main board and I also have this power supply. If I plan on going with a LCD monitor with converter there is no need for any transformers at all, correct? I mean, everything I need to Coin detection, Joysticks, etc.. will be ok with the main board and the supplied ground or DC voltage references at the edge connector, right?
Correct if you are going with both a switching power supply like in this video, as well as an LCD monitor, you can eliminate both transformers at the bottom on the cab
@@GalaxyGames843 Super awesome! Thank you kind Sir. Can you recommend a good source (possibly a schematic) that I can reference when building my own edge connector harness? Thanks again :o)
@@donaldashworth1224 everything should be in the Ms pacman manual
At 7:25 you said in or out doesn’t matter. Isn’t the point of the isolation transformer to isolate the monitor from everything and you should ABSOLUTLEY not connect the PS to the output side?
In my opinion it doesn't matter, some may disagree
May be because the switched has it’s own transformer... it’s isolated anyway.
I have the same Pac man arcade. My screen flashes a lot when I power it on. What can be causing this? Is it power or is the monitor just bad?
I'd have to see video to really tell but I would guess a monitor issue
We purchased a PAC-MAN arcade machine here in the U.S, can we have the it converted to a 240 voltage in Australia?
I'm sorry I am not familiar with making a modification such as that
@@GalaxyGames843 Thank you for your reply. I’ll write to the manufacturer and work it out. 👍
So on my board, the +5V pad and GND at the edge connector have continuity according to my multimeter. I'm measuring 120 ohms. Is this normal? It seems this will just short the power supply so I don't want to connect it. I will preface that the board had some kind of damage to it prior and but was still working. The previous owner bypassed the 12/5/GND on the edge connector and connected directly to the harness (yes, they cut the wires). Not sure if I was the "hair" when I pulled it from the machine.
Are you sure you are measuring correctly? Your 5v and ground should not pass a continuity test if you are testing correctly
@@GalaxyGames843 Yes. Same pad next to the heatsink. I was surprised I kept getting a tone from the meter. There is no connection between the adjacent points on the edge connector. Only short I can tell is the one between the +5 and the GND. +12 (near the diodes) is fine.
I’m picked up a pac man cocktail table that had issues and I’m trying to resurrect it and I believe I’m having power supply issues. Is it possible to add pics here to show what is going on?
I'm not able to add pics to comments of videos but the video details the process very well
Are you able to do a email conversation, I definitely need some assistance on this repair being It’s my first one
I don't know what you did with the other end of the white wires you soldered onto the isolation transformer.
thanks.
That went to the A/C input on the switching power supply
@@GalaxyGames843 was there a polarity off the transformer?
@@mchamps no it's AC power so it does not matter
Looking into converting my nintendo vs red tent to a switched power supply. Any advice on what kind of unit to use and how to do it would be nice. Thanks 👍.
That should honestly be even easier. The nintendo vs manual has a wiring diagram. It should tell you exactly what each wire is (+5, +12, etc) to know how to connect it to the switching power supply
Are you connecting the 12v4a or the 12v16a to the board?
Im not sure what you mean, the switching power supply only have one +12v out that we used
How did you eliminte the hum bar? I put the same type of switching power supply (kit from Arcadeshop) in my Galaga and get extreme hum sound. I never took the fuses out. Will that help?
Yes, you have to bypass the edge connector and remove the fuses.
Oh the kit from arcadeshop does not bypass the edge connector
What power supply did you use or recommend
Just a standard arcade switching PS from arcade shop
Quick question for you. I wired up a 60 in 1 jamma to a power supply just like this in my ms pac cabinet. Now when I power up, monitor powers up and power supply does as well, but no power to marquee lights or credit button, etc. thoughts on what I messed up? Thanks!
The coin door lights run off of the old transformer - so removing the fuses will remove power to those. The marquee lights however should not be affected. You may want to check your bulb, starter, and ballast
@@GalaxyGames843 Thanks. It is a cabaret cabinet, so not a tube, they use small 12v incandescent bulbs instead.
@@dugmar01 I see. Those will run off of the same voltages of the coin door so that makes sense
Do the coin door lights still work with this mod? The top fuse usually supply’s the coin lights power.
They do not. You would need to do a separate mod for that
@@GalaxyGames843 could you just leave the top fuse in?
@@kylen.6742 I'd have to look at the wiring schematics before I can say yes to that. I'll see what I can figure out
Couldn’t you just wire 5v/12v from the power supply directly to the lights?
@@DUw0ng not technically the existing lights use VAC power so you'd have to change the bulbs too
What about the remaining three fuses in the three-fuse holder? Do those need to be removed too?
All other fuses should stay in place. Only remove the ones I show being removed!
I know this is a couple years old but a couple questions for you.
Do I need to use molex connectors for the 5/12 or can I use spade connectors for everything like you did with the ground?
Wasn't sure if there was a reason or just what you had on hand.
Also if I purchased the 60n1 pcb and wired it like this, instead of the original pcb, would that work. I'd have to put in a new monitor, would the games orientation flip correctly with a cocktail table or would I need to choose a side to face the screen and have no more 2 player?
So excited to try this, my neighbor purchased a Ms pacman cocktail table 10 years ago and has never got it running, I recently purchased it and am working on it. I'm gonna replace the fuse bed first, if that doesn't fix it, I'm going to try this. Unfortunately when plugged in with all safety switches and power switches where they need to be, it shows no sign of life. Hoping fuses or power supply will help and it's not a deeper issue.
I unfortunately am very new to this whole thing and have no idea how to actually test my way through the machine to see where the power stops.
Molex isn't needed for it to function. You could use spade connectors if you wrap them with electrical tape so that they don't touch each other. As far as a 60 in 1 it uses a jamma harness, so you would either need an adapter or a whole new harness to re-wire it with
@@GalaxyGames843 perfect! Thanks!
Will this fix the static discharge reset?
I'm not familiar with static discharge resets. Can you give more info?
@@GalaxyGames843 so back in the day we use to touch our coin to the door and the static discharge would reset the game. I just picked up a package and of you let the game sit and flip the coin lever for a credit it will spark and reset the game. It will do it if you touch the door also. It does not happen everytime and it does it on both boards I own.
@@DavidLangkiet ok I remember reading about that. I would have to have that tested before I could give an answer
Nicely done, man.
Thanks!
Where did you tap into the ground to the new power supply?
I wasn't able to get that on video... It can be done at the noise filter where the power cord comes into the cabinet
@@GalaxyGames843 Excellent. Thank you!
I’m curious why you removed the fuses...
That stops power from running to the edge connector on the PCB. Remember this mod bypasses the edge connector for power, but you still have to leave it connected for video audio and controls
@@GalaxyGames843 ok, I just installed this: mikesarcade.com/estore/datasheets/PSK-PAC.pdf and it didn’t mention removing fuses so I was wondering if that might be something I needed to do.
@@RedHorseAdventures that is different. You are still using the edge connector for power using that adapter....
No way! You are amazing dude! Loved this.
Wow! Thanks for the kind words! I appreciate your support!!!
This was the how-to video I needed. I have two dead Pac-Man’s and one dead Ms. Pac-Man. Gonna install the switching power supply and see if that fixes the problem. I just wish you showed how you installed your molex connector.
Sorry about that! You really need a special crimper for molex
@@GalaxyGames843 I work for an amusements vendor. I’m sure they have one (or many) at work. 👍
@@jeffm5056 I'll bet they do! It's really pretty easy! Maybe I'll do a future video about it!
Where did you get the power supply. What thickness is the wires you use
I got the power supply off of eBay and used 22 gage for the low voltage and lamp wire (18 gauge maybe) for the AC lines
GalaxyGames843
I looked on eBay What did you search for?
@@markhoppel8920 www.ebay.com/itm/331317736009
GalaxyGames843
Awesome Thanks
@@markhoppel8920 you got it!
Great video can you do that on baby Pac-Man pinball getting no fire at all?
I doubt this would would work for a baby pac pinball. I'd have to look at the internals of a baby pac to confirm, but I'm sure it uses a different PCB.
Just the video I need
Glad it can help you out!
thanks for the info.
You are welcome!
Nice video. It helped alot but I lost power to coin door lights and coin meter after doing this hack.
I'm editing my answer here... Let me check on that !
Same. I’m fixing mine today. I’ll let you know what I end up doing to fix it.
That's one way to do it, but if you don't want to modify your pcb or are not proficient at soldering I suggest this kit. I have used it in multiple machines and it works great and gets rid of the common problems. 10 min install easy peasy. www.arcadeshop.com/i/932/midway-power-supply-kit-3.htm
What if you have a burnt ground on your edge connector? Will this kit bypass that?
I was looking at this kit also . What does this replace ? Such as can I remove the fuses etc from the main transformer board ?
@@nmore69 yes you will want to remove the 4 fuses that connect to the main transformer when using this method
GalaxyGames843 thanks sorry for all the questions . We just recently picked up an original pacman game also . Everything works but just looking to make it more reliable . So basically this bypasses the main transformer and fuses and powers the board etc but the other isolation transformer stays in tact for the monitor . Am I in the ballpark here ? Lol
please buy some pcb feet 😭
Why would I do that?
@@GalaxyGames843 arent you afraid of damaging a 43 year old pcb dragging it around? 😭
i have several boards and the exact one in this video 🔮
never damaged a midway board but many have VERY small traces that are easily damaged even by fingertips (igs pgm)
Great video . Quick question . Can you just add a power cord directly to the switching power supply ? And run it out of the cabinet ?
That would work yes, but it wouldn't look as clean!
GalaxyGames843 understood ! Thank you !
Thanks for this video. Thank you
Great video ! Thanks
Thank you for watching!