Curious on your take on my thinking. For bigger water raft trips I have 70m of 9.2 static, as do the other boats. For lighter/kayak /canoe trips combining smaller diameter ropes is normal but way less effective, partly for mechanical advantage but also length. Ive switched my plan away from 3:1 to 4:1 pig rig for a couple reasons. A little more mechanical advantage to mitigate losses... But also skipping low effectiveness prussiks on narrow rope and simply tying a bight in the haul rope. We're not hauling someone out of a crevasse. You typically only need enough total movement to change the forces to unwrap, not haul it to shore. This means you don't need continuous rope to anchor and through z rig.
Not many people know how to do pig rigs. I tend to stick with techniques that are commonly trained to reduce confusion. I've had to move a prussik many times in a raft recovery. Also the prussiks are easier to untie than a knot in a rope.
Most throwbag ropes have a polypropylene outter sheath this is what makes the rope float. One of the downsides of polypropylene is that it has a really low melting point. Once friction is applied to the outter sheath the heat will start to decay
I would love to see this in action instead of just having it explained. It would make for a more interesting and educational video. Thanks for what you do, love the channel
![Testing More Pulleys [Pin Kit Gear Part 2 of 4]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/jitzolkpcPs/mqdefault.jpg)
![Testing More Pulleys [Pin Kit Gear Part 2 of 4]](/img/tr.png)
Curious on your take on my thinking. For bigger water raft trips I have 70m of 9.2 static, as do the other boats. For lighter/kayak /canoe trips combining smaller diameter ropes is normal but way less effective, partly for mechanical advantage but also length. Ive switched my plan away from 3:1 to 4:1 pig rig for a couple reasons. A little more mechanical advantage to mitigate losses... But also skipping low effectiveness prussiks on narrow rope and simply tying a bight in the haul rope. We're not hauling someone out of a crevasse. You typically only need enough total movement to change the forces to unwrap, not haul it to shore. This means you don't need continuous rope to anchor and through z rig.
Not many people know how to do pig rigs. I tend to stick with techniques that are commonly trained to reduce confusion.
I've had to move a prussik many times in a raft recovery. Also the prussiks are easier to untie than a knot in a rope.
Most throwbag ropes have a polypropylene outter sheath this is what makes the rope float. One of the downsides of polypropylene is that it has a really low melting point. Once friction is applied to the outter sheath the heat will start to decay
I would love to see this in action instead of just having it explained. It would make for a more interesting and educational video. Thanks for what you do, love the channel
Yes that would be cool and a lot more work. Some day when I have a camera crew to film the whole thing we'll do that.
I’d like to see the sterling 7/16 HTP, curious about if /how it may be better than the 3/8.
My guess is that they are fairly close. The thicker rope will work better with prusiks and be easier on the hands when pulling
I use 9mm HTP. Super static, compact, durable