Top 6 Food Forest Trees for Temperate Zones (+ 2 bonuses at the end!)
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- Опубликовано: 23 июл 2024
- Food Forests are human-designed garden systems utilizing patterns found in nature.
If you live in a temperate climate, what should you plant in your food forest?
Whether your food forest is small like mine (1/4 acre or even smaller) or expansive (5-100 acres!), there are key trees that you can consider adding to your forest design this year. I've got 3 trees that work for ANY size temperate (zones 4/5-10) forest garden, 3 trees reserved for larger designs, AND 2 bonus trees for those of us in warmer temperate zones (7-10).
Edible Acres (@edibleacres ) video on nut storage: • Nuts! Long term stori...
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0:00 Intro
02:13 Hazelnut/Filbert
03:34 Quince
04:50 Plum
07:15 Walnut
08:26 Black Locust
10:20 Mulberry
12:26 Bonus - Common Figs
12:44 Bonus - Persimmon
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Also, on the mulberry, don't forget that we can eat the leaves, too. The young ones cooked taste pretty good to me. Also you can dry the leaves and make tea which is supposed to be pretty nutritious, I think. Love your content so much! Thanks Angela 💜
I moved into a new house a couple years ago and had to leave my old food forest behind. My new back yard is about 1 acre. I started planting immediately. I have around 65 trees and around 100 bushes that all produce. I bought older already producing cloned trees so i would have a head start. Mostly hybrid stuff. The only thing i have that isn't producing are my hazelnuts. Those were only a few feet tall when i bought them. I planted 15 of them and they all took. I have Apples, Pears, peaches, plums, kewi berries, blue berries, honeyberry, persimmons, pawpaw, schisandra vines, cherries, service berries, sea buckthorn, just added 12 che trees, cranberries, currents, raspberries, blackberries, lingonberry, thats all i can think of. I'm always looking for more ideas. Like the Che Trees i just planted. I never heard of them.
I have a Jr half acre yard, and my front yard has sweet chestnut trees. They do need space, and 2 trees must be planted for pollination. Technically sweet chestnut is a fruit, but with a nutritional profile similar to grains. The nuts can be milled into a flour. They store beautifully if properly dried.
Also, new mulberry leaves in early spring are a nice addition to a salad!
alders are an alternative to the black locust in places where it shouldn't be grown, like here. they fix nitrogen, the wood is quite dense and incredibly rot resistant, it provides early pollen to bees. though no nectar and they aren't really edible. many also don't put up suckers but they can all be coppiced. and there's such a huge variety of species.
From my research chipped alder wood is ideal for growing mushrooms too.
@@Youdontknowmeson1324 not really a replacement for a fast growing nitrogen fixing tree though
where is here?
@@gunning6407 sweden. but much of europe i'd imagine
@@rallekralle11 Siberian peas are very easy to grow they make edible peas and mesquite is good to.
I have the tiniest back garden which has the following trees: A ballerina apple(Dwarf vertical growth); Billington Plum (It has prolific amounts of fruit so will thin the immature fruit from now on); passionfruit vine (along the back fence); Dwarf Feijoa (Bambino) and a young black currant.
The standardised Camella supplies nectar for the tui birds and waxeye birds every winter.
The echinacea provides nectar to to bumble bees and butterflies each summer.
For those of us in very humid climates (eastern US), disease pressure plays an outsized role in selection. I've avoided planting Cydonia oblonga due to its high susceptibility to fire blight and its role as a disease amplifier species. It looks like there are resistant breeding programs underway, but I'm not aware of commercially available resistant varieties.
Black knot is another common & devastating Prunus disease here in Ohio that's driven my selection of plums.
I’ve found quince doesn’t struggle with fireblight here even though it’s common in pears, but that’s an important data point for folks in the midwest, that it might not work as well there. Definitely important to pick things right for your specific location.
Black knot is not a problem here but it can be such a big problem for folks elsewhere. :(. Resistant varieties that are locally adapted are super important.
@@ParkrosePermaculture Re pears, that's interesting - i was under the impression that fire blight pressure wasn't an issue in PNW. I believe it relates to time of flowering relative to warm, damp weather?
You mentioned coddling moths briefly - have you been happy with the performance of your apple bags? Thinking of trying this year...
I've planted three of your suggestions, Persimmon, Fig and Filbert, though I don't really expect many filberts will escape the squirrels. I've been very tempted to add a Quince too but haven't pulled the trigger yet, or dug the hole as it were.
Good list by the way.
Angela. Pray for my Yinny Jiggers. She took off for one of her little adventures and yet to return. She never stays out past sundown. We have had a wonderful 14 years together, she was a street rescue. I cry from my heart not knowing what happened.
You can also tap walnut trees in spring. Aparantly the sap makes a very nice syrup.
I didn’t know that!!
From walnut? I only knew this about birch and maple.
@@Iris_van_Vulpen you can tap a lot of trees actually, but birch and maple are the most giving!
I kinda went off the deep end with plums (and all the various hybrids) when I first started planting trees because I had some in the yard as a kid and nostalgia can be a really strong motivator. I have five plum trees (an american plum seedling, waneta, toka, emerald beaut and a green gage), three pluerries, two cherry plums, and a flavor grenade pluot. We planted most of them between winter 2018 and 2020, the larger trees are just starting to fruit. Fresh pluerries and plouts are just WOW. The earlier blooming trees are a bit before our last frost date, but that didn't stop us from getting fruit off of our trees last year. If we get a good year... I'm going to be swimming in plums 🤣
My other stone fruit trees aren't as mature but I think they'll be good options if you don't have disease issues and late frosts. I have 3 apricots (1 seedling manchurian and two grafted semi dwarf varieties). Around here they bloom quite early, and I expect we'll get fruit once every 7 to 10 years. I did put 3 apriums into pots so I can have fruit more regularly... another WOW for fresh ripe fruit. To keep the set fruit I have to put them in our garage when late frosts hit, but that's a small price to pay for the ridiculous fruit those trees pump out. The cool thing about apricots here is that they're mostly unbothered by pests (all stone fruits can get peach borers here, unfortunately), and are really attractive shade trees.
I might be able to be talked into a quince tree. I have one plum that I'm going to pull out and that would be a good spot for another fireblight resistant apple or maybe a quince. Quince are self fertile, right? I have asian pears, but they're on the other side of the yard (and no european pears). I guess I could always graft on another variety if I find scion wood... Decisions decisions... Baked quince with a little cinnamon and a light drizzle of honey is really tasty. 😁
One of my neighbors is a little overly enthusiastic about digging up some black locust seedlings he found in his yard and putting them in empty spots everywhere, including about 2' from our property line. I think I'm going to have to politely educate him on how inappropriate a few of those spots are (locusts are HUGE), and provide him with some seeds for native shrubs that would fit much better. The black locusts aren't native here, but we do have a native New Mexico Locust which is a substantially smaller tree, with what I'd assume a lot of the same benefits (and some of the negatives: huge thorns and lots of suckers). I have one in a quiet area of the yard where it'll be easily managed.
I'm hoping our figs pull through this winter. I put three in ground last year (Improved Celeste, Dark Portuguese and Ronde de Bordeaux). We're pretty borderline for temperature (between 6A/6B), so they die entirely to the ground year after year, and resprout from the roots...if they're hardy enough. I'm really hoping I don't have to protect the trees in winter, that's a bunch of extra work I would rather avoid. I had a bunch of potted fig trees that I kept in the garage for years and they're a bit more work than you'd expect. They wake up before your last frost, and really start needing a good light source. If you can put them by a window, they do fairly well, otherwise you end up dragging the pots around daily in the spring to miss any frosts or freezing temperatures, while acclimating them to the outside conditions (spring wind here can shred fig leaves). FWIW, I can get very good figs from our local coop, but I have to be ultra picky with quality. I skip the brown turkey / black mission figs usually and go straight for the adriatic figs (green skin, dark red center). They are definitely the exception, not the norm. Most store bought fresh figs are really really bad.
Quince absolutely can catch fireblight in the eastern and midwestern USA. I wouldn't take a traveling vacation during the spring infection season when the trees need to be monitored and infections pruned out. Plums for zone 4 or colder Midwest (& northeast?) should probably be Amerasian (hybrids of American & Asian diploid species) with one Prunus americana or P. nigra for pollination. In the Deep South, the most successful plums will probably be hybrids of the native Chickasaw (in Texas, where humidity may be less extreme away from the coast, Prunus mexicana might be better) and the Japanese plum. Look for cultivars developed at Deep South universities like U.F. or Auburn. Hazels (except for the small fruited eastern natives) tend to succumb to Eastern Filbert Blight east of the Rockies--work with the fiddly natives, or look for more recent (usually patented & $$$$) resistant cultivars. None will tolerate Eastern z8 & 9 (Deep South; summer too hot and winter too short). Pecans and other hickories, and probably Chinese chestnuts, are the reliable nuts for the South but are large trees. If you have space for them, livestock can be pastured under widely spaced pecan (& hickory) plantations when the nuts aren't dropping.
There are also smaller varieties of mulberry. I have a Shangri-la. It’s much smaller and fits nicely in my small suburban backyard.
Have you tried to grow the pineapple guava? It has lovely fruit that is ripe when it falls to the ground, the petals of the flowers are also edible and tastes much like the fruit. It is a wonderful hedge plant because it is evergreen and the leaves are silvery and fuzzy on the underside. You need two varieties for cross-pollination and it grows to about 12' on average.
Yes! I have three of them and really like them. I would consider them more shrubs than trees. I find they do very well here if planted in a sheltered location.
Cold hardy prickly pears and maybe chollas are really good to they make fruit and edible leaves they aren’t really trees but edible and cold hardy yuccas to. True yam vines like Chinese yam is very easy to grow starchy vines that grow starchy tubers there similar to trees because how fast they grow. Siberian peas are really edible tree producing beans/peas that are edible.
What a well put together packed with information video. Wonderful wonderful information!
There's an existing prune tree and I planted a mulberry, but the big trouble with my backyard (besides it being a rental) is no direct sun. As most people will need to live in denser cities with taller buildings blocking light, would love a follow up for balcony/patio/potted or ultra small spaces.
Jostaberry & black currants arr maybe worth a look for modest sized plants that fruit well in part shade?
I don't even have space for a tree but I want a filbert now. I agree with your point that it's important to balance out being a fruitavore
Check, but I think you will need two for pollination.
as always, excellent video, full of valuable, timely info! thank you 🤍🕊
About Quince; I have a variety that you can eat fresh as well as cooked. It's called Aromatnaya. It tastes a bit like pineapple and is great in salads.
I really like my medlar (Westerveld) although it's a specific taste and use. I understand why it's not in the shortlist.
And cherry... I always wonder why they're not in more lists. I love my cherries (Udense Spaanse and Varikse Zwarte. Both Dutch varieties).
This year I planted an apricot (Kioto). I'm looking forward to it's growth and eventually fruits.
And did you ever tasted the leaves of Toona Sinensis? They taste like onion soup and you can stir-fry them.
Ooh, I've been trying to talk myself out of a medlar. I have been admiring one for years...those leaves! It's got such a fairy tale quality. Hmm mm.....
Thank you for sharing all your knowledge!
Excellent video - Thanks!
Zone 5b here and just establishing a large food forest/permaculture orchard. So far I have apples, pears and peaches. I am hoping to add mulberry plums and hazel this year. I have seeds stratifying so fingers crossed they take and sprout! I want to find some quince and figs soon too. Must remember not to try to do it all in one year!
In the bay, plums and figs grow prolifically. To the point that the multi-use paths in the area are filled with self seeding plums and suckers of figs. Makes for great snacks in the summer😁although plums are also used as ornamentals here too.
Yinny was found. Thank You!
Thanks for ALL the information! And I like the considerations that you mentioned for long term storage with little additional supplies needed!!! This is so important!
I'd like to give this more than one like. You have a great style of presenting and helped me greatly in the search of trees for my temperate zone 8a garden.
I've already ordered most of these for spring but am having a snowstorm now!
I'm hoping my girardi dwarf mulberry works out! but about the figs, I'm growing them without protection in 7 but I know people growing them in zone 5 by constructing a cage around the pruned tree and stuffing it with leaves and covering it for the winter. sounds easier than digging it up!
Most of the time here I am in Zone 4 but just this last month it got to -40 so I hope most of my trees made it. I wold like to try the filbert tree
Nothing quite like a Quince Compote 🙂Oh and thx for the idea of freezing the mulberries! 🙂
OK, Angela, you got me: I rarely hear a word that I've not heard before, and even more rarely, one that I cannot figure out the meaning of from the context. I've never encountered the word, "spatchcocked," which is especially odd because I'm a huge Anglophile and have read lots of British literature. So thanks for that new addition to my vocabulary!!! You're also intriguing me about quinces, something I never thought I would try. I live in Appalachia and try to source locust for firewood whenever possible: it has the highest BTUs of any firewood, so way more heat for one's dollars. I have a black locust on my new property (it's common here) and it root runs and wants to sucker, which I was excited about...until I experienced the local deer browsing the new growth down to the ground, thorns and all! I was astonished. I will be shielding the suckers from deer going forward.
Spachcocked chicken is where you strategically cut a whole chicken to have it lay flatter in a pan.
Love your suggestions- thank you so much.
I bought a fairly new kind of dwarf mulberry last year after worrying about the sizes they can reach:
Black Mulberry - Morus rotundiloba Mojo Berry - Charlotte Russe
I have never eaten mulberries before with no chance to try them. Not sure how common they are in the UK, but no one local has them.
There are mixed reviews about how like standard mulberries they are but I’ll give them a go.
I planted two hazelnuts last year, and this year I'll be adding some pawpaw amd currants! I'm excited to get some nuts in a few years hopefully.
Guys u can find all those fruit or plant whatever you said in Turkey u should check. By the way we have a lot of flavor of those fruit
I put a fig near my house before realising the roots can cause issues so digging it up in the winter. My chickens love the leaves on my young mulberry. I have had to protect it. Your chickens probably know the fruit is better. Mine have yet to fruit enough to share.
Thank you for sharing these trees! I am in zone 4a (canada) we get down to -30 C in winter I am wondering which fruit trees to add. I also have a front yard of concrete and I want to cut it out and grow in the front. (I’m thinking about elderberry- you didn’t include that one and I’d love to ask why and what you think of elderberries!) also, you mentioned you could store figs in pots over winter- in colder climates, would you say I could do that and place them in a garage or would a greenhouse be better thanks 🙏 I love all your videos ❤❤
Elderberries are technically a shrub rather than a tree, I think. Though mine looks more like a tree lol
Nice video - thank you for sharing. Here in southern Oregon, I would also suggest adding Asian pears to the list. Choose a fireblight resistant variety and they are bulletproof for me, even with late frosts and summers with extreme high temps. That is interesting that you mentioned quince were fireblight resistant. I had thought they were very susceptible to it.
I have an Asian pear in a pot with three varieties grafted on it, but I have found (and so is my neighbor) that they don’t like our wetter weather here and they are more disease prone than European apples and pears. I looooove the crunch and flavor of them.
That’s a great tip for folks in S. Oregon to give them a try!
Yeah, Cydonia oblonga is a major fire blight host in certain regions. Ken at Oikos in Michigan offered some "hybrid swarm" of what he calls quince, but it looks like they're mostly Chaenomeles species (ie, flowering quince).
I have never eaten an Asian pear with flavor. Sweetness and crunch, yes, but no aroma. So to me they are like water chestnuts. Do you have suggestions for cultivars that are worth eating?
@@erikjohnson9223 FWIW, Here in Ohio I've had some very bland ones that were maybe harvested too early, and then more from the same orchard later in the season that were wonderful (and held well at room temp). It's not the same intensity of apple or pear, but there's an unmistakable honey/floral aroma, like honeydew meets jasmine?
@@erikjohnson9223 Ichiban and Yoinashi are my favorites for eating fresh off the tree or after cold storage. Korean Giant are my favorites for drying. All of these are disease free with no spraying at my location.
I garden in my front yard in a subdivision and need the smaller trees recommendations. My b backyard is Hugh but a steep hill. Could do mulberry! Thank you!!
Thanks for the list. Looked into hazelnuts in NJ and found a newspaper article and a report on new cultivars from Rutgers U. The article said Oregon produces most of the hazelnuts in the US and that east of the Rockies the trees are very susceptible to Eastern Filbert Blight. The Rutgers report discussed new blight resistant cultivars they and others have produced in recent years. It also said you need two trees to produce nuts, which may not be an issue for you since you live in Portland where the trees are apparently common enough to ensure pollination but I don't have the space for two trees in my tiny yard. Nuts.
Yes. That is such a good point that you need disease resistant varieties if you live elsewhere. Lots of good plant breeding being done to produce them.
Yes! If you don’t have them abundant in your area, you need a pollinizer! Thanks for warning folks!
you could graft or put two in one hole!
@@wesleyrobbins Thanks for the tip. Didn't know it was ok to plant two trees together.
I’ve watched a lot of your videos and I would like to know if you wish you had kept some of your fruit trees shorter? I just read a book titled Grow a Little Fruit Tree by Anne Ralph. I would love to hear you talk about managing fruit tree size.
Lovely video! Do you have a small space alternative to the hazelnut? I seem to be slightly allergic to hazelnut. Thanks for you wonderful content.
I haven't tried it myself and Jared (Weird Explorer channel on RUclips) hated them raw (soapberry family, probably need to be roasted to destroy saponins) but yellowhorn (Xanthoceras sorbifolium) might be possible. If you are in the western PNW, Chilean hazel (Gevuina avellana, actuallya relativeof macadamia, not hazel) might even work. Chilean plants tend to hate the Southeastern climate, and it is only hardy to z8, so that limits it to maritime climates like the PNW, parts of western Europe, and Chile itself.
I ordered a couple of heartnut trees for a number of reasons. First, they don't get huge...+/-20' or so. They are pretty nuts and don't have any of the bitterness that walnuts can have. They are also easy to crack open. I live in zone 5a.
Hello Angelo
Thanks for another thought provoking video. As trees are a long term investment, I’d like to know your opinion on planting trees for a warming climate as well as a cooling planet. Here in UK our climate is milder due to the Gulf Stream but our latitude is the same as Hudson Bay in Canada. What trees would you plant for warming world and what would survive a cooling environment and are there any that would allow you to hedge your bets either way?
Billion dollar questions XD
If romance bush cherries (romeo, jukiet, etc) do ok in your area, they're a very hardy & productive shrub/small tree that was bred for Canadian plains winters (USDA zones 2-7). Their own-rooted, so you can lift & share suckers. Downside is that they take 5+ years to get to full production. Lovely plants im spring, though, and a nice size to net for birds.
Thanks for the info. Sadly these cherry trey are not available for sale in uk
Great video, will you do one for vining plants and or root zone plants for temperate food forests? I struggle to find enough variety in my area
I actually have an upcoming one on perennial root crops!
@@ParkrosePermaculture amazing, I'm looking forward to it. How about vines?
Hardy kiwi and grapes are good choices.@@Ben.McNeilly
@@barbarasimoes9463 I got both! Since I posted that comment, I've also got hablitzia, madeira vine, hops and honeysuckle
I have a large (many decades old, established well before my family moved into this house in the 90s) navel orange tree that is prolific with no management except occasional pruning. In Northern CA 9b. More than we can use and give away. Year after year they end up rotting and falling before we can pick them all. I’ve started dehydrating some, but it’s really intensive and I’m not sure what to use them for.
I've put things out by the sidewalk with a sign that says, "Free Vegetables /Fruits" and most days, all is gone by the end of the day. It builds good will in your community. You could also deliver extra produce to a local food shelf. They are always grateful.
Do you think mulberry would lend itself to containering? I'm wondering if that would help keep the size in check.
I've heard that they don't because they have powerful roots that can self-strangle the tree if contained. If planted in the ground, you need to be cognizant of this and keep them far enough away from driveways, sidewalks, etc. because a lot of the roots are near the surface. I was aware of this, but ordered dwarf varieties. I contacted the company I got them from and they suggested that I move them to where they could run a bit.
You could try to ‘Bonsai’ it in a wide, shallow pot. Apparently this will yield normal sized fruit on a miniature tree, though not a large harvest.
Hello! I have been learning so much from you over the last year. I just mulched my backyard last fall in prep to start my own food forest.
I have a question concerning mulberry trees. I would love to grow a dwarf variety. In my research so many say that the roots are real problems for foundations and the like and should be planted no less than 30 feet away from homes/driveways etc. Your contorted mulberry does not seem to be that far from your home or your neighbors'. Are the roots a concern for you?
I planted two dwarf mulberries and two dwarf Girardi mulberries, which only get to be six feet after ten years. I contacted the seller, and they still suggested I move them from where I had planted them...to close to the driveway, sidewalk and septic. I moved all four out back and now can breathe easy! They moved very well, and are growing well. I hope to taste them for the first time this upcoming summer!
Can you share tips for drying figs? We have 9 fig trees (only 6 are established enough to produce) and I've never been able to dry them successfully with the dehydrator I purchased. They take days to dry in a dehydrator and sometimes they still aren't thoroughly dry, resulting in moldy figs. We live in central NC and our summers are hot and humid. Perhaps it's too humid to dry them in our climate? Anyway, I would love to figure out a way to preserve them other than freezing or canning. Thanks for your channel. So much great info!
Slice them into 1/4 inch coins, they should dry just fine.
And if you’re drying them outside (eg under a verandah, with a nearby power source) you could set up oscillating fan(s) to keep the air around them moving.
What trees would you suggest for an enclosed, separated from the outside, garden? Think 100 ft by 50 ft quonset hut broken into 1/4 mile length.
What zone are you? What are the growing conditions?
I wonder if you have multiple hazelnut tree's since you seem to get good pollination from yours or perhaps, they're somewhat self-fertile.
There are several in the neighborhood, and they are not self-fertile. If you live somewhere where they don’t grow native, you would need 2, but you could plant two in one whole and grow it as one bush
I wish I had room for beaked hazels in my yard. They're native to my county. I don't think the HOA would be a fan of putting them in the front yard, which is the only place I have room.
Odd question that I’ve looked and looked and never gotten an answer for, but do you know if damson plums or quinces respond well to bletting for fresh eating? Damsons are related to blackthorns which I know responds well to bletting, and I have a suspicion quince might too, a lot of wild pome fruit do and quince are astringent during fall just like other fruit you need to blet to eat fresh. It would be nice to know if there were a larger variety of fresh eating fruit that blet like persimmons.
That is a really good question and I have no idea but you know what… I wanna try it this fall and see how they both do!
@@ParkrosePermaculture thank you for the response! It’d be really nice to figure out, in my opinion fresh eating fruit for the post frost season would be a very nice time to still have diversity, that’s how native fruit eaters like birds naturally have it on this continent already, and it would help take at least some pressure off of the need for food preservation. I’ll still plant some of both in the future regardless, but if I know they can be eaten fresh when bletted I would DEFINITELY plant way more, that would be very desirable to me. A large diversity of fresh human sized fruit nearly year round in a temperate climate would be a wonderful sight to see.
@@ParkrosePermaculture if you’re going to experiment this season you can use the freezer to blet them instead of leaving some on the tree as the experiment, when I blet persimmons with the freezer I do multiple freeze thaw cycles for the best ripening, I’m sure that would be very important with an astringent fruit like quince compared to a fuyu. It won’t be a completely accurate to what it would be on the tree, but it will at least give you an idea so you know whether to leave some on the tree or not for the winter. Leaving some on the tree as first experiment may lead to you wishing you left more, or wishing you harvested them all in fall. A preemptive freeze test would help you decide how to manage it for winter.
As damsons ripen on the tree they get sweeter and softer. Nice to eat straight off the branch. Once fully ripe though, they don't last long. My damson tree keeps on giving - every year. Lots of visits from friends in the autumn to harvest and take bags of the fruit home with them for pies, crumble, jam and gin etc. That still leaves plenty for my chickens to forage when they drop into their run.
I'm growing medlars. The tree is small and has beautiful flowers, but best of all, the fruit is picked and bletted in November or December. I've yet to taste them, but I'm eager to...hopefully this year?! The tree will be three years in the ground this upcoming growing season! It was with this tree that I first learned of the term, "bletting"!
Ceanothus flowers for pollinators and soap?
They are nitrogen fixers. The less showy but much hardier C. americanus (New Jersey tea) from the eastern and midwestern USA has been used for (uncaffeinated) tea.
Sadly, all my quinces died of fire blight out here in the northeast.
Hazelnut needs 2 varieties for pollination.
What about linden tree? Leaves & flowers are edible & can be pollard.
Leaves are only palatable on young (spring) growth. I like my vegetables to have a longer season of use, but if you have space and can use the tree for other purposes (wood for carving and pyrography?), basswood/linden might be worthwhile .
My understanding from talking to someone who has a Filbert orchard that a male tree is required. But that was years ago. So my question is your Filbert tree self pollenating?
That is correct. I forgot to mention that you do need two trees IF you don’t have them in your area. Because they grow wild here and several people in my neighborhood have them planted in their yards, I don’t have to worry about it, as the wind brings in the pollen.
I also have an apple for which none of my other apples are in the correct flowering group, but there are enough other apples and crab apples in the neighborhood that it gets pollinated every year
What do you recommend for protein sources for someone who is allergic to tree nuts? You mention tree nuts and say fruits aren't enough -- but what about for people for whom tree nuts aren't an option? Especially if they can't (or don't want to) integrate animal sources of protein and fat? What would you recommend for them?
What zone are you? Are you allergic to peanuts? You could try growing them as an annual crop.
@@barbarasimoes9463 Zone 7b. I love peanuts, and I plan to grow them. I figure legumes in general (like peas and beans) are a good idea, too. Are there any other sources of protein that I could grow to eat?
@@emilymarthasorensen1516 That should be fairly easy to google. That's what I do when I want to know something! Something like, "What zone 7 plants offer good protein?"
Broccoli
Why invasive Black Locust over native Honey Locust? Similar growth habits, hardiness, and wood qualities plus a source of sugar-substitute.
Honey locust is not native where I am and I’ve never seen it growing here. It would be a great alternative to black locust for folks who have it where they are - if you don’t mind the wicked thorns.
@@ParkrosePermaculture There are thornless varieties commonly used along streets and sidewalks by municipalities. They do generally become thorny after coppicing/pollarding, though, but in my experience the thorns are large but few enough to be easily avoidable. There are Honey Locusts growing in parks within 90min drive of Portland ;-)
Lillis Albina park in NE Portland has several new Honey Locust trees planted by Parks and Rec.
Angela do you recommend Epsom salt for the garden or for fruit trees?