Thanks so much, Drew. The first couple of minutes were really valuable, as that info on the negative impact of panel shading was not something I'd seen presented in any other videos (and I've seen many). That said, the rest of the video did veer more into EE-land, reminding me why I switched out of that degree to IT instead! :-) But hey, for those who have the knowledge of electronics or are prepared to obtain it, it seemed to be great info. And go Terps!
So I have 25-year-old solar panels and they don't have diodes so I think you've just cleared me in to why my system continues to test low, plus I was testing on DC which I thought was accurate and getting a low reading so thank you for pointing that information out I love how in-depth you are
i hope you read the comments here as i have some disturbing info for you..The first ad to pop up from utube on your vid here was about a dual belt drive generator scam and the guy in it stresses not to buy solar.Your vid was educational and just what i needed to sort out a problem.The scam ad should be reorted but it wont let me on my end.
Great video. I just have one comment. It's a nit pic. "OL" doesn't stand for "OverLoad", It stands for "Open Loop" . On a Fluke 77 Multimeter, "OL" stands for Open Loop. This indicates that there is no continuity in the circuit you're testing, meaning the circuit is broken or there is an infinite resistance. Essentially, it means that the electrical path is not complete, and current cannot flow through it
My brand new 130w flexi solar panel shows zero amps and zero volts output, if i can access the panel connection box, when the panel has been in full sun, will i get a shock?
Wow! Messed up! He connected the probes the same way in both cases (red on LHS, black on RHS) at 7:33 and 8:07 and the connection to the meter appears to be the same (bit of red showing on the POS side) in both cases and yet he got 2 ostensibly different results on the meter in the video. How is that possible you ask? Well, it isn't. So, what gives? Well, if you go frame by frame at 7:33 you'll see that the images have been changed at some point. On one frame the meter starts to show a reading then the frames are changed (and no longer moving, tellingly) and it now shows OL. Basically, it appears he messed up and did not actually swap the probes as he should have done, or lost the footage, and they then manipulated the video to show the "correct'" answer by inserting a still image. Odd...
Noticed that, and also thought maybe he swapped the leads on the meter, but as you said there is a bit of red on the meter and both were the same connection. Very good video up to that point.
You need the same size diodes in that case because it still have to be capable of dissipating the same amount of power because the same current will flow through it no matter how many cells it bypasses (cells are in series, ther is just "one" current flowing thrugh all off them). Big diode for each cell would be very expensive not just because of the cost of the diodes, but maybe more because of the complicated construction of such panel, if something cost 50% more but doesn't result in at least 50% more performance (more annual energy generation or better longevity) it shouldn't be there.
Brillant, but my panels are generating 36V which is correct but only 0.4amp. This is on both when tested separately. What could be wrong? They both worked a month ago - cheers
They are failing under load. Could be the diodes in the junction box on the back of the module. If they are good, the cells could be bad. Do you have lines on any of the cells that resemble snail trails? If so, get new mods.
USELESS information without some links on how to procure proper replacement diodes for my sized panel! Why bother when you only go half way? I suspect when I need to replace them that they Internet will have been taken down also. So no new info and no ordering of diodes when you really need them.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Drew, Thank you for actually showing the technique you used to open the JBox; this crucial step is omitted in many solar module stories. 🥇
Thanks so much, Drew. The first couple of minutes were really valuable, as that info on the negative impact of panel shading was not something I'd seen presented in any other videos (and I've seen many). That said, the rest of the video did veer more into EE-land, reminding me why I switched out of that degree to IT instead! :-)
But hey, for those who have the knowledge of electronics or are prepared to obtain it, it seemed to be great info. And go Terps!
So I have 25-year-old solar panels and they don't have diodes so I think you've just cleared me in to why my system continues to test low, plus I was testing on DC which I thought was accurate and getting a low reading so thank you for pointing that information out I love how in-depth you are
Love the video… trying to figure this out and glad to see others have done this all before.
i hope you read the comments here as i have some disturbing info for you..The first ad to pop up from utube on your vid here was about a dual belt drive generator scam and the guy in it stresses not to buy solar.Your vid was educational and just what i needed to sort out a problem.The scam ad should be reorted but it wont let me on my end.
Thank you for this is what I need, just tested my 50w panel today as you explained it showing me 2.3A on the sun seems to me ok
Merci à vous pour ce tutoriel très explicatif...
Good stuff ‼️ Thanks for sharing.
8:11 The probes are in exactly the same position as in 7:36. I don't understand this.
Great video, Thanks!
Hi
I think the connections can get very hot
what kind of soldering wire is recommended ???
Great video, thank you very much
how if one of the diode is burned
can I used cable to use direct
Great video. I just have one comment. It's a nit pic. "OL" doesn't stand for "OverLoad", It stands for "Open Loop" . On a Fluke 77 Multimeter, "OL" stands for Open Loop. This indicates that there is no continuity in the circuit you're testing, meaning the circuit is broken or there is an infinite resistance. Essentially, it means that the electrical path is not complete, and current cannot flow through it
Please provide the general calculation formula:
Control charge size.
Inverter size.
Usable load capacity.
give it to me.
My brand new 130w flexi solar panel shows zero amps and zero volts output, if i can access the panel connection box, when the panel has been in full sun, will i get a shock?
My panel have low amps 2 diodes reading and 0.971 how I should know if the functioning properly
Wow! Messed up! He connected the probes the same way in both cases (red on LHS, black on RHS) at 7:33 and 8:07 and the connection to the meter appears to be the same (bit of red showing on the POS side) in both cases and yet he got 2 ostensibly different results on the meter in the video. How is that possible you ask? Well, it isn't. So, what gives? Well, if you go frame by frame at 7:33 you'll see that the images have been changed at some point. On one frame the meter starts to show a reading then the frames are changed (and no longer moving, tellingly) and it now shows OL. Basically, it appears he messed up and did not actually swap the probes as he should have done, or lost the footage, and they then manipulated the video to show the "correct'" answer by inserting a still image. Odd...
Noticed that, and also thought maybe he swapped the leads on the meter, but as you said there is a bit of red on the meter and both were the same connection. Very good video up to that point.
Hi sir my panel is 145watt,8.85amp but can not charge a 45ah battery what should I do..
Very well described
why not use a small diode between every cell?
You need the same size diodes in that case because it still have to be capable of dissipating the same amount of power because the same current will flow through it no matter how many cells it bypasses (cells are in series, ther is just "one" current flowing thrugh all off them). Big diode for each cell would be very expensive not just because of the cost of the diodes, but maybe more because of the complicated construction of such panel, if something cost 50% more but doesn't result in at least 50% more performance (more annual energy generation or better longevity) it shouldn't be there.
Brillant, but my panels are generating 36V which is correct but only 0.4amp. This is on both when tested separately. What could be wrong? They both worked a month ago - cheers
They are failing under load. Could be the diodes in the junction box on the back of the module. If they are good, the cells could be bad. Do you have lines on any of the cells that resemble snail trails? If so, get new mods.
I have 8 solar panels with 3 diodes each, that are burned out. The junction boxes have been melted.
Did i miss something? You replaced two diodes with one diode?
First he showed the junction box with 2 diodes with screws and then he showed another junctionbox with one diode, which was soldered
As clear as mud.
R
USELESS information without some links on how to procure proper replacement diodes for my sized panel!
Why bother when you only go half way?
I suspect when I need to replace them that they Internet will have been taken down also.
So no new info and no ordering of diodes when you really need them.