I'm glad that in recent years more folks have figured out that "dry" brushing (which as seen here, does involve some dampness) can in fact be a high quality and flexible technique. It's just that for a long time it was taught to model painters poorly - without awareness of aspects like keeping the brush damp, or stippling to create texture for shading to catch and build up on. It's really great because it unlocks a totally alternative method for achieving gradients, blends, and "lighting" that doesn't involve an airbrush or the trickiness of live wet blending.
I'm glad to see dry brushing is becoming more of a thing again, as I know through the years it's been 'shunned' by a lot of painters because of the regular chalky results, and it doesn't help that GW videos including it show that exact chalky result! I've always been a fan after seeing some space Wolves that were dry brushed almost completely make it into and place in golden demon 2000, got silver in a squad category.
yeah, the wrong technique has been pushed as the standard for so long. wiping on kitchen paper to suck out all the moisture being the biggest problem (then using the right kind of brushes being the second) you still are never going to get as good results on certain types of minis, but in a skilled hand they can still look good. I would say that to a newer dry brusher they should practice on high detailed plastic though, and not jump right into trying to dry brush space marines. Also when space marines are dry brushed properly it's nothing like the old style of dry brushing, and is more like buffing on the colours.
Unless ofc the thing you are painting is supposed to look dry and chalky. ;) Pick the technique that will work best for the subject you are working on.
Buy Artis Opus Drybrushes Here: store.artis-opus.com/products/fauxhammer-starter-set-bundle-mixed-5-brush-deluxe-set-texture-pallet?_pos=3&_sid=d70053b8b&_ss=r&ref=aCq6u7Kh Artis Opus FauxHammer Essentials Set: store.artis-opus.com/products/fauxhammer-starter-set-bundle-mixed-5-brush-deluxe-set-texture-pallet?_pos=3&_sid=d70053b8b&_ss=r&ref=aCq6u7Kh FauxHammer Patreon - www.patreon.com/fauxhammerblog FauxHammer Facebook Group - facebook.com/groups/PaintHub FauxHammer Discord - discord.gg/dPexM9SeN4 Best Airbrush For Miniatures: www.fauxhammer.com/top-10/best-airbrushes-for-miniatures-wargames-models/ Beginner Airbrush: www.fauxhammer.com/featured/best-beginner-airbrush-for-miniatures/
Use colourless nail polish on your thumbs. When the surface is smooth, the temptation to gnaw is gone and your nails can grow out until you have nice thumb nails again. I had the same problem as a teenager.
I have to say that the contemporary drybrushing is such a gamechanger, it lets you speedrun edge highlights without getting that chalky to gummy texture. Using a texture pallet and the largest brush (makeup brush for cheap people like me) produces amazing results in conjunction with airbrushing.
The bit about preparing colors: how do you stop paint from becoming half dried on the palette by the time you get to it? I live in a relatively humid place, but even then I have paint drying relatively quickly. I even have that issue on globs on wet palettes, let alone on a normal one.
The position "secret" is actually very valid for every miniature painting you're doing. The hunch-over position is no good and if you try to avoid your pain, you often lift hands and lose stability. Get a higher desk or lower chair which allows you to lean your back to the chair while painting and prevents you from hunching over.
Someone please help me, I want to dry brush to edge highlight as my hands are too shaky. Do I dampen my brush? Do I use a small brush or larger one? I’m not exactly doing large areas so I’d assume smaller to target the edges. Any help would be great. Thank you😊
Depends on the size of the edges, use the biggest brush you can, but one that allows you to get to all the details. And you wnat your paint a little drier to pick up edges. but still dampen it forst to protect the brush from paint drying on it, then work it offso it inly picks up edges on your texture palett before applying that to the model
@@FauxHammer fantastic, thank you. It’s just Custodes models so I’ll use whatever fits I guess. And damp but a little dryer so edges can be caught. Thank you.
This is great. I've been divining exactly these tips as i avidly binge and rewatch Byron's content, but the side-loading and swooshing somehow escaped my purview. Rosetta-Stone-tier video, this 😁
Awesome video… dry brushing is my ‘go to’ for spacemarine armour. Feel like I learnt a few things here and now know I must by a texture pallet (been using kitchen roll, which I hear is a big no no lol) 👍👍
This is so incredibly helpful, thank you. I am absolutely the person in the beginning of the video, who watches these videos where pros explain drybrushing, and then I sit down to do it and it's a disaster. This is exactly what I needed, you rock.
Love that you included the stippling. Most people miss that, but the subtle marbling and subsequent height differences add a subtle reflection of how natural airflow and therefore the particles sanding away the surface, is never a homogenous stream and therefore some spots will add up a bit more abrasions than others and at the same time, old-timey paint wasn't applied consistently with industrial spray machines.
#1. Use a fan brush instead. Preferably non synthetic bristles, the softer the better. It is far superior in coverage and (lighter layering) application than a mop brush.
I have goat hair mops (oval wash brushes by daler and rowney) they are perfect and seem to be the design that artis opus/R&C use for theirs. Only thing is you can't really get smaller sized goatshair mops, only big ones. I have the artis opus D set and I still use my goat hair mops when I can, as they are absolutely perfect.
@@D00M3R-SK8 Ive found using a bent eyelash fan brush perfect for fine detail. Modify for fine work by trimming the brush section down to the desired width & length of the area you want to focus on.
@@dagoelius the oval wash brushes are so soft as well, way softer than anything else I've used. it's next to impossible to get that dry/chalky look with them. I used to mainly use them when I was doing bases and scenery TBH, but the level of colouration and highlights I could get with them without even needing to go into pigments was better than anything else I've tried. when dry brushing stuff with lots of edges they pick out everything because of the shape of the head. even with these new gen, purpose made dry brushed they still have a head and side, where as the oval mops are like a bulb shape, so the side is like the tip as well. they're perfect for highly detailed areas with lots of different edges.
Dude, I picked up your Artis Opus set about a year ago and watched a couple of their dry brushing videos, my life hasn’t been the same since! I can get airbrush quality blends and smoothness with dry brushing.
STOP TELLING ME HOW TO WARHAMMER!!! If I want to ruin my brushes I will. If I want chalky paint or a wet dry brush I will bloody have that! Great video btw 😉
This was a great commentary on a technique that I've used a lot but not really thought much about, definitely something I can take on board for the next time I paint (I've got a lot of primed models looking at me...).
This has been really helpful - I just bought a ton of terrain as part of a kickstarter campaign and was considering the Series D set... Will definitely pick one up after seeing this!
Thanks for this video. Great job. I've used some drybrushing on my models for weathering and detailing. Didnt realize you could so much with it. I will be sharing a link to this tutorial on my channel. Thanks again
thanks for the tips especially the part on the dumping pad, I never understood what the feeling I must have after using it. I would really like to see all the footage of dry brushing this church with the Byron's comments.
Fantastic, invaluable video. But judging by the incredible array of paints and accessories this so-called ‘noob’ has, if he’s a ‘noob’ then I’m just a twinkle in the noob-god’s eye!
...you know, I think you're the first person to say, in a YT video, that people use brushes that are too small. I got taught this, rather brusquely, by Blanche, yeah, that one, back in '92. He told me that anything under a #1 was a strap-brush. Developed to do, and to only, really, do, the straps and piping on napoleonic et al tin soldiers. They cannot hold a tip, so they cannot come to a point.
Okay. I paused after 2 mins. This is by fare one of the most interesting video on miniature painting i saw on internet. 🎉🎉 Édit; after seeing the entirety of the video i must say that my first thought was good. What à cool vid that explain some basics that in fact are not so well explained by the pros. Thx à lot for sharing
Would you recommend citadel or Vallejo model Color paint for dry brushing? Do Citadel and Vallejo model Color both have a satin finish? Softer look for drybrushing
Glad to see that for a year already those cabinets exist and Artis Opus still can’t deliver kickstarter. Great job to Artis Opus f*cking over their supporters
7:11 i skip stippling because ive already done base coats with sprays. i can t see stippling working when im just trying to drybrush highlights in white before contrast. sadly this means i cant do models fast with dry brushing. also means i cant easily add drybrush to existing paint without losing what i did before. it would be nice if there were tutorials for this technique that showed how to use it without stippling.
the big thing that trips me up is when i test my brush on the texture pallete, i use up that paint and when i load more its not the same. how much testing is right? cos when i test that also change how much will come off my brush on the model. it feels very hit and miss. 4:17 thats great but the paints dry really fast and become unusable. 5:58 that experience takes time.theres almost no point drybrushing on an important miniature until you are fairly good at it. im just going to drybrush test minis for a month or so, see if i improve.
Brilliant video. I was literally thinking over the weekend that my dry brushing isn’t as smooth looking as professional painters. And how can I improve it.
Thanks! Streaking Grime is a popular product by a company called AK interactive, there are alternatives. and it;s enamel or lacquer based, I forget which, and basically you slosh it on and can then manipulate it for ages, such as wiping it away. You need to use synthetic brushes and use a thinner like mineral spirits for cleaning, but it dries with the dirty matte look you see here, great for weathering
they have a load, including our branded one... take your pick.... store.artis-opus.com/products/xl-texture-palette-fauxhammer-edition?pr_prod_strat=use_description&pr_rec_id=8ac16a512&pr_rec_pid=7256855773382&pr_ref_pid=4179780436104&pr_seq=uniform&ref=aCq6u7Kh
I find it impressive that you guys do this on miniatures and make it look so good. I am working more on larger bust and action models that I 3D print myself. I find that like any piece of art, it is alot of times a good thing to view the model from a slight distance. Things always look different from a standard viewing distance than the do close up. What may subjectively look like crap up close may look awesome from two feet away. That said, I have watched alot of videos on miniature and model painting and it seems that while the people mean well in their efforts to teach others, they tend to focus on how fast they can paint and less on the enjoyment of the process. Maybe it is just me, but it is far more enjoyable going through the process at a lay person's rate than being done in 10 minutes and moving on.
It´s like watching a pro skater doing tricks like it’s a walk in a park and than you try to do the same thinking and expect you get the same result, people should watch the videos to get inspiration but then it’s all about learning it and spending hours, failing many times and trying again and again, be persistant and do not give up. No one can learn a skill just by watching a video.
Not drybrushed on my 'Nid army yet, but after being recommended it found this vid and am planning on attempting it on my models. Thanks for the concise explanations!
en vrai c'est un peu condescendant de traiter de noob les gens...surtout quand tu as une chaine qui vise les débutants...je commence à croire que dans cette communauté aussi y a un délire élite/débutant ou les gens se prennent pas pour de la m**de dès lors qu'ils ont un peu d'xp...
I’m calling myself a noob… it only means “newbie” or new person. How is that condescending? A new person will not know as much as a more experienced person.. this video is aimed at tips for new people. So if you are a new person and you want tips. Here’s a video for you… Your comment is rather rude? Is this intentional?
I want to dry brush an end table. I painted this table with acrylic red paint then I dry brushed over it with ch as ll paint. It turned out maroon. Not at all happy. Help
10:13 this looks great, is this the one you used streaking grime on? I have not ventured into oil wash territory yet, but it's something I would like to try. I bought some nice oil paints (a black and a burnt umber) but I don't have the artists white spirit yet, so never tried it out. I am planning a mechanized Ork army soon though, so a lot of vehicles. I definitely want to break out this tech for this project. PS: something else I'd highly recommend are the Tamiya clear colours. I have the clear orange that I use for leaking lubricant on walker legs and stuff like this. It's a great tool for doing realistic wear on vehicles. I picked this up from scale modelers.
@@FauxHammer I have this stuff called dried or drying blood from secret weapon that is sort of a tech paint for when you want to add older looking blood to stuff. It's great for bases and stuff as it isn't like this super-gloss new blood stuff you can get, it actually looks like it's sat there for a little bit.
Techniques and tips are vital to understanding how to paint figures, as is avoiding the trap of throwing money at brushes. Quality products WILL ABSOLUTELY HELP but don't be afraid to look around. AO are one option but Rosemary and Co, Artify and others all make superb alternatives....... I tend to buy one brush as a sample and compare them for my needs.
I'm with you on rosemary but Artify, like Army painter have completely ripped off AO and done a piss poor cheaper job. And whilst sure, AO don't own the copyright of a brush shape. Their approach of making a cheaper copy of a product that another brand popularised without adding any end-user benefit or enhancement is not a business practise I can't in good conscience support. if they took it and improved it sure, but they are capitilising off another companies research with a chepa knock-off. By call means, make your own decision, I'm not here to judge, but Artify can suck it in my personal opinion.
Cost is definitely a factor here, let's be honest. I've been painting on and off since the mid-80s so while I can absolutely, and with confidence, assert that you do indeed get what you pay for, I am also confident in saying that sometimes, people are persuaded to pay too much for the cachet of owning a particular product without necessarily seeing a commensurate increase in quality. I've recently started again after a break and I have yet to determine where the break point lies...BUT....The forums are a great source of inside information as to who developed which brushes, who owns which company, and where value for money lies. I'll definitely look at AO and Rosemary, perhaps they can justify the cost. We'll see ^^
@@MercutioUK2006 Wow, I've found a sensible person on the internet! Yes you are completely right, and cost is a factor, a huge factor. And whilst it's certainly there and as I said before everyone can make their own decisions. what I love about this hobby is how hobbyists support hobbyists. I would not be where I am if not for the community support and I hope I am doing the same for them in return, it's mutual respect that we share. and I suppose that I have a personal investment in the success of AO too because they have always been good to me, It's the reason I can no longer do impartial brush reviews, because there's just no way i can be impartial toward them anymore. But you are not wrong, Rosemary make great brushes and the price for the quality cannot be argued, find a set that works for you and you're golden.
@@FauxHammer You know what, I respect that stance - being open about an association in itself is a rare commodity these days! Frankly, if cost was no issue I would buy some of them all and make my decision purely based on quality. Unfortunately I am forced into this cost/value balancing act so in part, I have to validate NOT buying AO or Rosemary to myself, even whilst they get stellar reviews. Either way, I'll give you a cheeky sub :)
Yeah dude, pro acryl are not great for dry brushing. I think it's the high pigment or something. I only have the titanium white at the moment, and it's horrific for it (but have heard tales from a friend with the full set) I think scale 75 are probably the best for it, although I'm not sure if you want the standard set, I think their fantasy paints are probably better for this. The reason being they are kind of satin in finish (not glossy, but not matte) so they behave closer to a metallic paint. Pro Acryl are gorgeous paints for layering though, and maybe even for glazing. I think again though, scale 75 might be the best for glazing as you can get them so thin.
@@FauxHammer I'm likely going to pick up a full set of scale 75 soon, as you can get a decent discount if you buy their big bundle. I'd really like to pick up the Vallejo Xpress set as well though, as heard great things about these.
mate... I needed this. This is such an excellent video, its the 'inbetween' bits, the niggling questions that have confounded me a little during my drybrushing exploration. . .and like a wise old sage you have quelled my thirst for knowledge. hazaar! big shout out to Byron also, absolutely love his channel and those brushes are just sublime, back slaps all round chaps, bravo!
@@FauxHammer haha, tis but the truth my friend. The big concepts are often the easiest things to communicate and for the audience to grasp, so its the little tricks and nuances that the pro's like Byron or Richard Gray learn over the years that really put the shine on a model and elevate it above the efforts of us mere mortals. Applied knowledge is power!
@@FauxHammer yeah, he is a legend, supremely nice chap aswell. Give him a shout? I learn something new every time I watch one of his videos...the guy is gifted!
The best tips I could give anyone is to always go with a tester model first, and don't be afraid to fail, just move on to another tester and learn from your experiences!! Also, for the love of God, DO NOT USE A PAPER TOWEL!! 😂
So much of what I've seen on youtube is what i call overbrushing. this is the first video I've seen where Drybrushing is actually done right. the other thing i would say to deal with chalkiness if you have gone a little to dry is you can knock it back down with a wash and the pigment does settle. however if you drybrush the right way you wont need this step. I use the palm of my hand as a dry brushing palette as if i can highlight the fine lines on my palm, i know i have enough paint on the brush. the skins natural water resistance prevents the moisture exiting the skin and your skin oils can help the paint with the transition. I noticed you used the back of your hand in the video and this works well too.
@@FauxHammer LOL! id say its because dry pallets didn't exist when we started to paint lol. for me it was 1993 lol. we do what works and it makes sense to give it a wipe on the hand to take off the excess and keep on going. but the science is there. Keep up the great work mate!
well, it just so happens you get one in our 5 brush "Essentials set". But you can also buy them separately in a variety of styles store.artis-opus.com/products/fauxhammer-starter-set-bundle-mixed-5-brush-deluxe-set-texture-pallet?_pos=3&_sid=d70053b8b&_ss=r&ref=aCq6u7Kh
I know I do actually break a lot of models dry brushing LOL I just keep going and I forget about some of the more fragile components and then the next thing you know I've got my glue laying next to my dry brush
I have gotten my painting to a point, I rarely if ever watch tutorials anymore unless I am curious about a new technique….. I really would have missed out if I didn’t watch this. Glad I did: subscribed.
Best video about drybrushing out there! Pretty much every other video I've watched on it really just say to have little paint on your brush and to brush down or up and down very gently. This video showcases so many techniques that I've never heard of but now seems so obvious!
@@FauxHammer I'm actually going for an alternate colour scheme entirely! Going either dark blue or dark green as a base coat drybrushed over black primer, then layering up to kinda bone coloured highlights - giving them an almost stonelike texture - Zumiko did a video on it. Mine are cyberpunk 'crons though! So all the weapons are bright luminous colours - Using vallejo magenta, bright blue, neon green and bright orange. Already did my Nightbringer in this style and it came out awesome, but the techniques in this vid should really improve how smooth and blended they look.
@@sonicwingnut YEah, that was my hope, that this will make people instant pros if they know exactly what to look for. unfortunately sometimes it's just the paint that does not like to work with this technique. but if you are following a Zumitko guide them I'm sure that will be spot on anyway - they are ace!
Wow! Thank you!!! I got my AO Ninjon set at least a year ago and have been doing my best to just bumble through. I do watch Byron’s videos but just as you mentioned, there is a lot I missed that you’ve helped with.
Thank you for the content and sharing; When you are using the "stipple" technique, do you (1) load the brush and (2) stipple the model? or do you (1) load the brush, (2) dry off on the palette and then (3) stipple the model?
Depends how much is in the brush. I’ll do a quick check on the palette. And make sure it’s nit too wet it heavy. But then just jab it at the surface. It it goes in too heavy I’ll go back to that area as the brush empties to pick it out of the recesses and spread it further round the model. Gotta be quick though, you never want to move paint that’s started to fully dry
I'm loving the filter of streaking grime you put over it at the end, you provide a link to AK Streaking Grime in the comments, it seems a bit too dark compared to the finish you achieved? It looks more orange, did you use Rust Streaks as well? I also see some greens, lovely use of spot colours.
@@FauxHammer aha, thanks. I have AK012 (the same one you linked from Element Games). AK047 is their White Spirit. I'll give it a go anyways. I have had this terrain sitting assembled for a few years now, time to get some paint on it and your video motivated me to get cracking.
Worth noting that as it's designed for scale armour, the stealing grime can come in different varieties - I have AK024 for green and AK069 for panzer grey - both very different.
It's the board we are using throughout this video, you can get one in our branded essentials set or buy one separately store.artis-opus.com/products/fauxhammer-starter-set-bundle-mixed-5-brush-deluxe-set-texture-pallet
Really enjoyed this video, I definitely think while you can see most of what you highlighted in the video in Byron’s tutorials they are not always implicitly stated and having them all in one place is going to be an excellent reference, cheers 🍻
Glad you liked it! I’m thinking of doing more videos in this style with other creators. It’s been my best performing video yet with such positive feedback.
Is this more for terrain and larger flat surfaces, or would this work on army units as well? Wondering moreso because of all the additional painting you have left to do on the minis after this stage.
Yes this absolutely works on miniatures for your army. With simple colour schemes (i.e. mostly one colour) you can theoretically paint entire armies in just a couple of days and still get a result that looks good on the table top. You won't win a Golden Demon with it, but if that's what you were trying to do you wouldn't be worrying about time-saving techniques in the first place. Think of it this way. For doing the main colours on a model this gets a good result much faster than standard layering and it's easier to do consistently. You were going to have to paint all those extra details anyway even if you didn't drybrush the bulk colours. It's much faster than the basecoat -> wash -> reapply basecoat -> fat highlight -> thin highlight approach that GW generally advise. A different style to be sure but it still nicely defines volumes and edges. Even if you only do this on the biggest single colour appearing on your model it's an overall timesaver. Another pro tip is that for little details like pouches, charms and what not, no-one will notice if you kind of half-ass it. Spend your time on the model's main colours, the face, weapons and base. No-one will even look at the small details. So you don't need to waste effort on making them really good. A quick basecoat and edge highlight will do the job, throw in a wash maybe if they've got a lot of texture (e.g. chains, ridges, chainmail). Or if the detail is hidden away in a shadow like behind a shield or under an arm/cape? Just don't paint it. Leave that whole area the dark base coat which will be your shadow colour.
I'm glad that in recent years more folks have figured out that "dry" brushing (which as seen here, does involve some dampness) can in fact be a high quality and flexible technique. It's just that for a long time it was taught to model painters poorly - without awareness of aspects like keeping the brush damp, or stippling to create texture for shading to catch and build up on.
It's really great because it unlocks a totally alternative method for achieving gradients, blends, and "lighting" that doesn't involve an airbrush or the trickiness of live wet blending.
Yep, absolute game changer.
Started drybrushing in 1989 and never stopped. Don't believe the hype. ;)
I'm glad to see dry brushing is becoming more of a thing again, as I know through the years it's been 'shunned' by a lot of painters because of the regular chalky results, and it doesn't help that GW videos including it show that exact chalky result! I've always been a fan after seeing some space Wolves that were dry brushed almost completely make it into and place in golden demon 2000, got silver in a squad category.
oh wow, I wasn't aware of that squad
yeah, the wrong technique has been pushed as the standard for so long. wiping on kitchen paper to suck out all the moisture being the biggest problem (then using the right kind of brushes being the second) you still are never going to get as good results on certain types of minis, but in a skilled hand they can still look good.
I would say that to a newer dry brusher they should practice on high detailed plastic though, and not jump right into trying to dry brush space marines. Also when space marines are dry brushed properly it's nothing like the old style of dry brushing, and is more like buffing on the colours.
Unless ofc the thing you are painting is supposed to look dry and chalky. ;) Pick the technique that will work best for the subject you are working on.
This guide definitely fills me with more confidence to drybrush. Thank you Fauxhammer!
Glad to hear it! this has been such nice feedback.
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Use colourless nail polish on your thumbs. When the surface is smooth, the temptation to gnaw is gone and your nails can grow out until you have nice thumb nails again. I had the same problem as a teenager.
I have to say that the contemporary drybrushing is such a gamechanger, it lets you speedrun edge highlights without getting that chalky to gummy texture. Using a texture pallet and the largest brush (makeup brush for cheap people like me) produces amazing results in conjunction with airbrushing.
thats how im trying to use it but currently it ends up in consisttant and streaky. and theres no real tutorial for using it that way.
The bit about preparing colors: how do you stop paint from becoming half dried on the palette by the time you get to it? I live in a relatively humid place, but even then I have paint drying relatively quickly. I even have that issue on globs on wet palettes, let alone on a normal one.
This!! It dries out so quick
The position "secret" is actually very valid for every miniature painting you're doing. The hunch-over position is no good and if you try to avoid your pain, you often lift hands and lose stability. Get a higher desk or lower chair which allows you to lean your back to the chair while painting and prevents you from hunching over.
Yeah it helps no end
Someone please help me, I want to dry brush to edge highlight as my hands are too shaky. Do I dampen my brush? Do I use a small brush or larger one? I’m not exactly doing large areas so I’d assume smaller to target the edges. Any help would be great. Thank you😊
Depends on the size of the edges, use the biggest brush you can, but one that allows you to get to all the details.
And you wnat your paint a little drier to pick up edges. but still dampen it forst to protect the brush from paint drying on it, then work it offso it inly picks up edges on your texture palett before applying that to the model
@@FauxHammer fantastic, thank you. It’s just Custodes models so I’ll use whatever fits I guess. And damp but a little dryer so edges can be caught. Thank you.
This is great. I've been divining exactly these tips as i avidly binge and rewatch Byron's content, but the side-loading and swooshing somehow escaped my purview. Rosetta-Stone-tier video, this 😁
Wow, thanks so much. Arguably a very important step.
Awesome video… dry brushing is my ‘go to’ for spacemarine armour. Feel like I learnt a few things here and now know I must by a texture pallet (been using kitchen roll, which I hear is a big no no lol) 👍👍
Thanks so much. Yeah that’s gonna suck all the moisture out if the paint. Have it dry in the brush and give a chalky finish
This one went straight to my favourites list. Thanks for sharing. These were great tips.
Wow, thanks so much, I'm getting a bit overwhelmed with all the nice comments!
really good idea for a video, love ArtisOpus but this was definitely needed
Glad you liked it! thinking of doing similar things with other creators.
This is so incredibly helpful, thank you. I am absolutely the person in the beginning of the video, who watches these videos where pros explain drybrushing, and then I sit down to do it and it's a disaster. This is exactly what I needed, you rock.
Tha is so much. I have a follow-up coming soon
Love that you included the stippling. Most people miss that, but the subtle marbling and subsequent height differences add a subtle reflection of how natural airflow and therefore the particles sanding away the surface, is never a homogenous stream and therefore some spots will add up a bit more abrasions than others and at the same time, old-timey paint wasn't applied consistently with industrial spray machines.
Can't believe I've never thought to lower my chair to reduce backache and fatigue, thanks for the bonus tip!
#1. Use a fan brush instead. Preferably non synthetic bristles, the softer the better. It is far superior in coverage and (lighter layering) application than a mop brush.
I have goat hair mops (oval wash brushes by daler and rowney) they are perfect and seem to be the design that artis opus/R&C use for theirs. Only thing is you can't really get smaller sized goatshair mops, only big ones. I have the artis opus D set and I still use my goat hair mops when I can, as they are absolutely perfect.
@@D00M3R-SK8 Ive found using a bent eyelash fan brush perfect for fine detail. Modify for fine work by trimming the brush section down to the desired width & length of the area you want to focus on.
@@dagoelius I'll have to try one of those... thanks.
@@dagoelius the oval wash brushes are so soft as well, way softer than anything else I've used. it's next to impossible to get that dry/chalky look with them.
I used to mainly use them when I was doing bases and scenery TBH, but the level of colouration and highlights I could get with them without even needing to go into pigments was better than anything else I've tried.
when dry brushing stuff with lots of edges they pick out everything because of the shape of the head.
even with these new gen, purpose made dry brushed they still have a head and side, where as the oval mops are like a bulb shape, so the side is like the tip as well.
they're perfect for highly detailed areas with lots of different edges.
Awesome video, i never achieved the same result as Byron. Thank you so much for it!
Dude, I picked up your Artis Opus set about a year ago and watched a couple of their dry brushing videos, my life hasn’t been the same since!
I can get airbrush quality blends and smoothness with dry brushing.
I think affiliate links to airbrush manufacturers didn't help much either.
STOP TELLING ME HOW TO WARHAMMER!!! If I want to ruin my brushes I will. If I want chalky paint or a wet dry brush I will bloody have that!
Great video btw
😉
you're such a nob Kev, I love you.
@@FauxHammer hahaha love you too broski 😘
This was a great commentary on a technique that I've used a lot but not really thought much about, definitely something I can take on board for the next time I paint (I've got a lot of primed models looking at me...).
Yours are primed!!! Well done.
This has been really helpful - I just bought a ton of terrain as part of a kickstarter campaign and was considering the Series D set... Will definitely pick one up after seeing this!
Great to hear! hope this helped with speed and quality of output.
Thanks for this video. Great job. I've used some drybrushing on my models for weathering and detailing. Didnt realize you could so much with it. I will be sharing a link to this tutorial on my channel. Thanks again
"because Im quite lazy" Say what?
Quite lazy
thanks for the tips especially the part on the dumping pad, I never understood what the feeling I must have after using it. I would really like to see all the footage of dry brushing this church with the Byron's comments.
It’s a bit choppy, lots of it is missing and we timelapsed a few segments when talking. But I’ll see what I can throw together from it
@@FauxHammer No matter how 'bad' the video is it will be incredibly helpful!
Fantastic, invaluable video. But judging by the incredible array of paints and accessories this so-called ‘noob’ has, if he’s a ‘noob’ then I’m just a twinkle in the noob-god’s eye!
...you know, I think you're the first person to say, in a YT video, that people use brushes that are too small.
I got taught this, rather brusquely, by Blanche, yeah, that one, back in '92.
He told me that anything under a #1 was a strap-brush. Developed to do, and to only, really, do, the straps and piping on napoleonic et al tin soldiers. They cannot hold a tip, so they cannot come to a point.
This video is packed full of excellent drybrush techniques! Nice one
Okay. I paused after 2 mins. This is by fare one of the most interesting video on miniature painting i saw on internet. 🎉🎉
Édit; after seeing the entirety of the video i must say that my first thought was good. What à cool vid that explain some basics that in fact are not so well explained by the pros.
Thx à lot for sharing
Would you recommend citadel or Vallejo model Color paint for dry brushing? Do Citadel and Vallejo model Color both have a satin finish? Softer look for drybrushing
Glad to see that for a year already those cabinets exist and Artis Opus still can’t deliver kickstarter. Great job to Artis Opus f*cking over their supporters
7:11 i skip stippling because ive already done base coats with sprays. i can t see stippling working when im just trying to drybrush highlights in white before contrast. sadly this means i cant do models fast with dry brushing. also means i cant easily add drybrush to existing paint without losing what i did before. it would be nice if there were tutorials for this technique that showed how to use it without stippling.
the big thing that trips me up is when i test my brush on the texture pallete, i use up that paint and when i load more its not the same. how much testing is right? cos when i test that also change how much will come off my brush on the model. it feels very hit and miss.
4:17 thats great but the paints dry really fast and become unusable.
5:58 that experience takes time.theres almost no point drybrushing on an important miniature until you are fairly good at it. im just going to drybrush test minis for a month or so, see if i improve.
Great video with great tips. I've done so much not so right way and you opened my eyes with this. Thanks
Hi ,found this video by accident and glad I did, thanks for the tips and advice. Really has put drybrushing a bit more clearer to understand thanks.
I’m super glad this was helpful to you
do you have a video that shows how you did the streaking grime?
Also, great video, I learned a lot!
How does scale 75 paints go drybrushing with the gel content you mentioned?
Brilliant video. I was literally thinking over the weekend that my dry brushing isn’t as smooth looking as professional painters. And how can I improve it.
Thank you Glad it was helpful!
I also like heavy body acrylics (artist paint) for drybrushing
oooh yes, much more fluid and great for smooshing!
Great video dude 👍🏻
Thanks! 👍
Doesn't the paint dry on the texture pallete if you put many colors in advance?
Thanks - just found this video while looking for drybrushing tips. What is "Streaking Grime"?
Thanks! Streaking Grime is a popular product by a company called AK interactive, there are alternatives. and it;s enamel or lacquer based, I forget which, and basically you slosh it on and can then manipulate it for ages, such as wiping it away. You need to use synthetic brushes and use a thinner like mineral spirits for cleaning, but it dries with the dirty matte look you see here, great for weathering
Where did you get your texture pallet? I can't seem to find one anywhere.
they have a load, including our branded one... take your pick.... store.artis-opus.com/products/xl-texture-palette-fauxhammer-edition?pr_prod_strat=use_description&pr_rec_id=8ac16a512&pr_rec_pid=7256855773382&pr_ref_pid=4179780436104&pr_seq=uniform&ref=aCq6u7Kh
I really want to switch to drybrushing. This video was incredibly helpful!
I'm so glad! thanks so much.
:O where do u get a texture palette? i always have trouble cleaning them and all
I find it impressive that you guys do this on miniatures and make it look so good. I am working more on larger bust and action models that I 3D print myself. I find that like any piece of art, it is alot of times a good thing to view the model from a slight distance. Things always look different from a standard viewing distance than the do close up. What may subjectively look like crap up close may look awesome from two feet away.
That said, I have watched alot of videos on miniature and model painting and it seems that while the people mean well in their efforts to teach others, they tend to focus on how fast they can paint and less on the enjoyment of the process. Maybe it is just me, but it is far more enjoyable going through the process at a lay person's rate than being done in 10 minutes and moving on.
It´s like watching a pro skater doing tricks like it’s a walk in a park and than you try to do the same thinking and expect you get the same result, people should watch the videos to get inspiration but then it’s all about learning it and spending hours, failing many times and trying again and again, be persistant and do not give up. No one can learn a skill just by watching a video.
yeah, direct feedback is one of the most important things you can do.
Not drybrushed on my 'Nid army yet, but after being recommended it found this vid and am planning on attempting it on my models. Thanks for the concise explanations!
Excellent advice, some of which I’ve never come across before, cheers
Thanks!!!
en vrai c'est un peu condescendant de traiter de noob les gens...surtout quand tu as une chaine qui vise les débutants...je commence à croire que dans cette communauté aussi y a un délire élite/débutant ou les gens se prennent pas pour de la m**de dès lors qu'ils ont un peu d'xp...
I’m calling myself a noob… it only means “newbie” or new person. How is that condescending? A new person will not know as much as a more experienced person.. this video is aimed at tips for new people. So if you are a new person and you want tips. Here’s a video for you…
Your comment is rather rude? Is this intentional?
I want to dry brush an end table. I painted this table with acrylic red paint then I dry brushed over it with ch as ll paint. It turned out maroon. Not at all happy. Help
I’m not sure we’re talking about the Sam type of drybrushing
45 seconds in, and I am already nodding, saying to myself, “Preach brother!”
Thx for this awsome tipps
Glad you like them!
10:13 this looks great, is this the one you used streaking grime on? I have not ventured into oil wash territory yet, but it's something I would like to try. I bought some nice oil paints (a black and a burnt umber) but I don't have the artists white spirit yet, so never tried it out.
I am planning a mechanized Ork army soon though, so a lot of vehicles. I definitely want to break out this tech for this project.
PS: something else I'd highly recommend are the Tamiya clear colours. I have the clear orange that I use for leaking lubricant on walker legs and stuff like this. It's a great tool for doing realistic wear on vehicles. I picked this up from scale modelers.
Yeah I have their clears I want to use them but haven't found a suitablenlronecr. The red is a great blood
@@FauxHammer I have this stuff called dried or drying blood from secret weapon that is sort of a tech paint for when you want to add older looking blood to stuff.
It's great for bases and stuff as it isn't like this super-gloss new blood stuff you can get, it actually looks like it's sat there for a little bit.
Techniques and tips are vital to understanding how to paint figures, as is avoiding the trap of throwing money at brushes. Quality products WILL ABSOLUTELY HELP but don't be afraid to look around. AO are one option but Rosemary and Co, Artify and others all make superb alternatives....... I tend to buy one brush as a sample and compare them for my needs.
I'm with you on rosemary but Artify, like Army painter have completely ripped off AO and done a piss poor cheaper job. And whilst sure, AO don't own the copyright of a brush shape. Their approach of making a cheaper copy of a product that another brand popularised without adding any end-user benefit or enhancement is not a business practise I can't in good conscience support.
if they took it and improved it sure, but they are capitilising off another companies research with a chepa knock-off.
By call means, make your own decision, I'm not here to judge, but Artify can suck it in my personal opinion.
Cost is definitely a factor here, let's be honest.
I've been painting on and off since the mid-80s so while I can absolutely, and with confidence, assert that you do indeed get what you pay for, I am also confident in saying that sometimes, people are persuaded to pay too much for the cachet of owning a particular product without necessarily seeing a commensurate increase in quality. I've recently started again after a break and I have yet to determine where the break point lies...BUT....The forums are a great source of inside information as to who developed which brushes, who owns which company, and where value for money lies.
I'll definitely look at AO and Rosemary, perhaps they can justify the cost. We'll see ^^
@@MercutioUK2006 Wow, I've found a sensible person on the internet! Yes you are completely right, and cost is a factor, a huge factor.
And whilst it's certainly there and as I said before everyone can make their own decisions. what I love about this hobby is how hobbyists support hobbyists. I would not be where I am if not for the community support and I hope I am doing the same for them in return, it's mutual respect that we share.
and I suppose that I have a personal investment in the success of AO too because they have always been good to me, It's the reason I can no longer do impartial brush reviews, because there's just no way i can be impartial toward them anymore.
But you are not wrong, Rosemary make great brushes and the price for the quality cannot be argued, find a set that works for you and you're golden.
@@FauxHammer You know what, I respect that stance - being open about an association in itself is a rare commodity these days!
Frankly, if cost was no issue I would buy some of them all and make my decision purely based on quality. Unfortunately I am forced into this cost/value balancing act so in part, I have to validate NOT buying AO or Rosemary to myself, even whilst they get stellar reviews.
Either way, I'll give you a cheeky sub :)
Yeah dude, pro acryl are not great for dry brushing. I think it's the high pigment or something. I only have the titanium white at the moment, and it's horrific for it (but have heard tales from a friend with the full set) I think scale 75 are probably the best for it, although I'm not sure if you want the standard set, I think their fantasy paints are probably better for this. The reason being they are kind of satin in finish (not glossy, but not matte) so they behave closer to a metallic paint.
Pro Acryl are gorgeous paints for layering though, and maybe even for glazing. I think again though, scale 75 might be the best for glazing as you can get them so thin.
Yeah, it's the medium, highly matte and has a grain to it so it end up chalky. I'm loving AK GEN 3
@@FauxHammer I'm likely going to pick up a full set of scale 75 soon, as you can get a decent discount if you buy their big bundle.
I'd really like to pick up the Vallejo Xpress set as well though, as heard great things about these.
mate... I needed this. This is such an excellent video, its the 'inbetween' bits, the niggling questions that have confounded me a little during my drybrushing exploration. . .and like a wise old sage you have quelled my thirst for knowledge. hazaar!
big shout out to Byron also, absolutely love his channel and those brushes are just sublime, back slaps all round chaps, bravo!
Wow, I think this is some of the best feedback I've ever had. I was literally just on the phone to Byron @ArtisOpus and passed on your thanks!
@@FauxHammer haha, tis but the truth my friend. The big concepts are often the easiest things to communicate and for the audience to grasp, so its the little tricks and nuances that the pro's like Byron or Richard Gray learn over the years that really put the shine on a model and elevate it above the efforts of us mere mortals. Applied knowledge is power!
@@Nosh_Feratu I would love to do a video like this with Richard Gray
@@FauxHammer yeah, he is a legend, supremely nice chap aswell. Give him a shout? I learn something new every time I watch one of his videos...the guy is gifted!
@@Nosh_Feratu I’m scared to, it’s Richard feckin Gray!!! It took me an hour to work up the courage to speak to him at Golden Demon
Amazing and helpful video, thanks
Glad it was helpful!
The best tips I could give anyone is to always go with a tester model first, and don't be afraid to fail, just move on to another tester and learn from your experiences!!
Also, for the love of God, DO NOT USE A PAPER TOWEL!! 😂
Great advice
So much of what I've seen on youtube is what i call overbrushing. this is the first video I've seen where Drybrushing is actually done right. the other thing i would say to deal with chalkiness if you have gone a little to dry is you can knock it back down with a wash and the pigment does settle. however if you drybrush the right way you wont need this step. I use the palm of my hand as a dry brushing palette as if i can highlight the fine lines on my palm, i know i have enough paint on the brush. the skins natural water resistance prevents the moisture exiting the skin and your skin oils can help the paint with the transition. I noticed you used the back of your hand in the video and this works well too.
Thanks, great point. Though I use my hand because I’m lazy lol
@@FauxHammer LOL! id say its because dry pallets didn't exist when we started to paint lol. for me it was 1993 lol. we do what works and it makes sense to give it a wipe on the hand to take off the excess and keep on going. but the science is there. Keep up the great work mate!
Good stuff...
Glad you enjoyed it
Those tipps where really useful. Thank you!
Thanks for the video. Now I wanto try again to paint my models. 😁
Do it
Sin duda alguna, el mejor video que vi sobre pincel seco. mil gracias!!!
I was looking for a texture pallet. I didn't even see one on Amazon.
Artis opus website, links in description and that will help. But you can make your own
It is always a good idea to introduce the tip so it becomes a bit damp. Just saying.
great advice for drybrushing and life
where do you get one of those palettes do clean your dry brush?
well, it just so happens you get one in our 5 brush "Essentials set". But you can also buy them separately in a variety of styles
store.artis-opus.com/products/fauxhammer-starter-set-bundle-mixed-5-brush-deluxe-set-texture-pallet?_pos=3&_sid=d70053b8b&_ss=r&ref=aCq6u7Kh
I know I do actually break a lot of models dry brushing LOL I just keep going and I forget about some of the more fragile components and then the next thing you know I've got my glue laying next to my dry brush
It’s not just you
I have gotten my painting to a point, I rarely if ever watch tutorials anymore unless I am curious about a new technique…..
I really would have missed out if I didn’t watch this.
Glad I did: subscribed.
Thanks so much
Best video about drybrushing out there!
Pretty much every other video I've watched on it really just say to have little paint on your brush and to brush down or up and down very gently.
This video showcases so many techniques that I've never heard of but now seems so obvious!
Wow, thanks!
Thanks a ton for this tutorial. Byron is a great guy.
Thanks, couldn't agree more!
How to draw anime figurines?
Thanks for this mate, very informative!
Thanks for watching
This was great and really helpful.
This could also be titled "All the things Byron doesn't tell you!" :)
Hahah, he has the ignorance of talent. I’ll tell him on Saturday
How did I miss this? Great video mate
Fantastic, planning on drybrushing all my necrons from Imperium so these extra micro-techniques really should help get good results.
Tip, paint them Rhinox hide on the base layer, then drybrush the metals over that leaving brown in the shadows
@@FauxHammer I'm actually going for an alternate colour scheme entirely! Going either dark blue or dark green as a base coat drybrushed over black primer, then layering up to kinda bone coloured highlights - giving them an almost stonelike texture - Zumiko did a video on it.
Mine are cyberpunk 'crons though! So all the weapons are bright luminous colours - Using vallejo magenta, bright blue, neon green and bright orange.
Already did my Nightbringer in this style and it came out awesome, but the techniques in this vid should really improve how smooth and blended they look.
@@sonicwingnut YEah, that was my hope, that this will make people instant pros if they know exactly what to look for. unfortunately sometimes it's just the paint that does not like to work with this technique. but if you are following a Zumitko guide them I'm sure that will be spot on anyway - they are ace!
Thanks, really appreciate the extra help
One is glad to be of service
Thank you - I've saved this one for future reference
Thanks for sharing, gonna make a damp pad to keep it from drying.
A damp pad?
@@FauxHammer Whatever it’s called, to slightly dampen the brush.
So let me get this straight its: Stir Whip Stir Whip Whip Whip Stir? 😅
Then hold A+B and press Start
Great job in the tips..very helpful
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks, this helped a lot
One of the best guides for dry brushing I’ve seen. Now I need to get new brushes cause they keep getting butchered.
haha, we all have that issue don;t worry. also, thanks.
The real best way to wet/moisten a dry brush is to lick your hand and then brush your hand
Why not just lick the brush
@@FauxHammer tongue is too wet
I'm just starting out and this vid was super helpful. Thank you!
Welcome to the instant level up. I should do more like this
Excellent tips thank you
Thanks, hope it’s helpful
At around 0:13, what is the hobby light that you are using?
Brilliant video btw :D
thanks, good question.
It's this ruclips.net/video/6PTI3O40q64/видео.html&ab_channel=FauxHammer
what kind of paint did you use acrylic or oil?
Acrylic
Wow! Thank you!!! I got my AO Ninjon set at least a year ago and have been doing my best to just bumble through. I do watch Byron’s videos but just as you mentioned, there is a lot I missed that you’ve helped with.
Thanks so much. I should do a follow up to this.
@@FauxHammer for sure!
Thank you for the content and sharing; When you are using the "stipple" technique, do you (1) load the brush and (2) stipple the model? or do you (1) load the brush, (2) dry off on the palette and then (3) stipple the model?
Depends how much is in the brush. I’ll do a quick check on the palette. And make sure it’s nit too wet it heavy. But then just jab it at the surface. It it goes in too heavy I’ll go back to that area as the brush empties to pick it out of the recesses and spread it further round the model. Gotta be quick though, you never want to move paint that’s started to fully dry
@@FauxHammer thx
great video. Thanks!
Glad you liked it!
I'm loving the filter of streaking grime you put over it at the end, you provide a link to AK Streaking Grime in the comments, it seems a bit too dark compared to the finish you achieved? It looks more orange, did you use Rust Streaks as well? I also see some greens, lovely use of spot colours.
It was just AK streaking grime, AK047 I think. but they keep changing it. Apparently the Ammo by Mig stuff is more consistent.
@@FauxHammer aha, thanks. I have AK012 (the same one you linked from Element Games). AK047 is their White Spirit. I'll give it a go anyways. I have had this terrain sitting assembled for a few years now, time to get some paint on it and your video motivated me to get cracking.
@@martinsivertsen7485 glad it is encouraging you. I often find random RUclips videos to be really inspiring
Worth noting that as it's designed for scale armour, the stealing grime can come in different varieties - I have AK024 for green and AK069 for panzer grey - both very different.
@@davegilden6603 nowadays you can get two bottles of AK024 and they are very different
Nice tips! Thank you! 👍
Glad you found it useful
I have never heard of a texture palette. What is it?
It's the board we are using throughout this video, you can get one in our branded essentials set or buy one separately store.artis-opus.com/products/fauxhammer-starter-set-bundle-mixed-5-brush-deluxe-set-texture-pallet
Really enjoyed this video, I definitely think while you can see most of what you highlighted in the video in Byron’s tutorials they are not always implicitly stated and having them all in one place is going to be an excellent reference, cheers 🍻
Glad you liked it! I’m thinking of doing more videos in this style with other creators. It’s been my best performing video yet with such positive feedback.
I'm at 00:50 and I already hit the like button.
Wow thanks, i think that's a record!
Thanks both of you helps loads
You wonderful man! The timing - and content - of this video is perfect! Massive thanks!
You're very welcome! thanks for such kind feedback.
What about Kurt Cobain alleged murder suicide by his wife .
I don’t understand the relevance but thanks for the comment
@@FauxHammer wrong video bloody RUclips, I was watching a conspiracy music industry video yours was next in play list as I was commenting.
@@Flamethrower1942 oh, well lets keep it, because it shows my video has more interactions on it which is a great way to boost views!
Is this more for terrain and larger flat surfaces, or would this work on army units as well? Wondering moreso because of all the additional painting you have left to do on the minis after this stage.
Yes this absolutely works on miniatures for your army. With simple colour schemes (i.e. mostly one colour) you can theoretically paint entire armies in just a couple of days and still get a result that looks good on the table top. You won't win a Golden Demon with it, but if that's what you were trying to do you wouldn't be worrying about time-saving techniques in the first place.
Think of it this way. For doing the main colours on a model this gets a good result much faster than standard layering and it's easier to do consistently. You were going to have to paint all those extra details anyway even if you didn't drybrush the bulk colours. It's much faster than the basecoat -> wash -> reapply basecoat -> fat highlight -> thin highlight approach that GW generally advise. A different style to be sure but it still nicely defines volumes and edges. Even if you only do this on the biggest single colour appearing on your model it's an overall timesaver.
Another pro tip is that for little details like pouches, charms and what not, no-one will notice if you kind of half-ass it. Spend your time on the model's main colours, the face, weapons and base. No-one will even look at the small details. So you don't need to waste effort on making them really good. A quick basecoat and edge highlight will do the job, throw in a wash maybe if they've got a lot of texture (e.g. chains, ridges, chainmail). Or if the detail is hidden away in a shadow like behind a shield or under an arm/cape? Just don't paint it. Leave that whole area the dark base coat which will be your shadow colour.
its really not easy to do consistantly as a beginner.@@aiken2258