PRUNING an APPLE TREE??? SUCKERS (water sprouts) ARE INDICATORS OF...
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- Опубликовано: 26 фев 2022
- Frustrated by Pruning? Don't know where to Start? Overwhelmed? Your Apple Tree is Loaded with Suckers. There's got to be a better way.
YES There is, if you FOCUS on this ONE THING...
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Boss, we really could've used this video earlier in the month. I already done butchered all my trees!
Don't worry, more branches will grow!
Trees are forgiving and there’s always next year, just focus on branch angle and forget about messing with the ends of the branches.
It’s ok .. the best pruners have learned by experience
😂😂😂 us too
What if all my branches have suckers?
When I bought my apple tree I set up bamboo stakes and rods and wire to train the branches to "droop" gently downwards. My whole reason for doing so: I'm short. I didn't want to have to use a ladder to harvest my applea. LOL.
I was worried about our young trees with their branches growing downward because of the heavy fruit on them pulling them down but now I know that's a good thing! Yay!
Thanks Stefan!
I don’t have any apple trees just yet but I’ll remember this lesson if I meet a sucker.
Perfect timing for this video. Been overwhelmed on how to clean up ours after a robust harvest last Fall, this instruction got me focused and certainly will be saving me time & blades. Thanks Stefan!
So often the problems we attack are merely symptoms of greater issues; this is a good reminder to focus on the root cause, not just the symptoms!
Absolutely
Have recently bought two parcels of land covered with large old apple trees that are out of control. Been watching videos for a few weeks and have just started with cutting off the dead branches because I wasn’t quite sure yet that I knew what to do. After watching this video I believe I have found my apple tree caretaking mentor! Looks to me that this info will help with correcting these large old trees.
Check out the first video of the pruning course (pruningcourse.com) it emphasizes branch angle and the simplest 3 step approach.
I took a pruning course along with grafting course too. It was awesome. They gave me all kinds of pointers. Thanks again for all your videos!
Simple, short, understandable... I think this will be a very useful tidbit. Thank you :)
Thank You! Pruning our apple trees has been such a pain, just a mess of overgrown suckers. The trees are old, they were here when we bought the house. I will try and top work some, and the new ones I plant I will be following your advice. Makes so much sense--lower angle, less vigor, no suckers. I am so relieved that there is a way to avoid the yearly battle with branches--bless you!
You’re welcome. it doesn’t mean the branches are less vigorous it just means they are not wasting their energy on suckers but putting that energy into producing fruit.
@@StefanSobkowiak yes, fruit instead of 100 suckers to trim---can't wait to train our trees with this method.
My trees are only a year or two old so far so i still love suckers
On an out of control apple tree, thin biggest branches going up. Leave most of branches going out. An out of control tree should look somewhat out of control when your done
I'll look at my two big apple trees in the morning with your information in mind. Thanks for the technique update. I needed some inspiration to get in and clean these threes up and get them in shape. Cheers
Thanks! This is really helpful. Also thank you so much for reminding me I have to do this.
I watch a lot of Permaculture and perm adjacent content - You are top notch, thank you!
Sir! This observation you pointed out is insightful….thankful to ya!
Ok, you amazed me with this one!
Amazing video. My dad has 10 apple trees that haven't been pruned for at least 15 years and I looked this up to know where to start. Now I know where to start and finish... BRANCH ANGLE!!
I have a bad tendency to lose focus when most people speak, but when you speak I know I am not getting fluff but just all practical meaningful facts. Thank you for your continued amazing content.
I took Stefan's complete pruning course and I highly recommend it! He has more excellent tips, all made clear and simple like this video. It's a good buy! Better than all the pruning books I've seen.
Thanks for the testimonial.
@@StefanSobkowiak I will gladly take time to endorse your material because I believe many people can benefit from it. Also, I want you to keep doing more so I want to buy some of your stuff to help support all the free content you put out! (And to help pay for the tour of your farm a few years ago!)
I wish I had an extra 189 to take the course so I just watch what he has free if charge. I am truly grateful for the information.
Very interesting 👍😎👍Thanks so much!
I am new to growing fruit trees and have bought my first bare root apple trees which are now planted, this year. Thanks for those tips. Very helpful information. Thank you Stefan. 🙂
Wonderful! A new start.
Wow!! Amazing information!! Looking forward to pruning again 😁❤️
Lovely! Yes, that Was helpful.
Awesome just what I did first time trimming my old apple tree this helped me a ton! Yay! Thank you for your knowledge
Glad I could help!
I was trying to figure this out. SO HELPFUL!!!!!
Thank you, that makes me encouraged to trim my trees, best video I've seen yet!
Awesome! Thank you!
Great information! Thanks!
Great video. Every night I put my birds away. I reach up into the tree and take them from the branches. As you appreciate, chickens can control the blood vessels in their feet but the branches are always warm. If we hadn't emptied the skies here in the UK, we'd understand the relationships trees have with birds.
Going to check out your course. Have been working with trees for 20 years. Think I may have been a little wrong in my approach. Thanks
We’re all a little wrong, the question is how wrong.
Thank you I have a young true only 5 years old and it is starting to get out of control so this is helpful.
Mind blown. I feel like I should be paying you part of my tuition for my Hort. degree. :) Thank you for all the knowledge you share.
Thank you, simple and easy.
Wonderful sir.
This made a lot of sense. Thank you very much.
Glad it was helpful!
I absolutely believe you.
However, if seems counterintuitive because it looks as if branches below horizontal would be much more susceptible to breaking in high winds or snow load.
Seems like it but we had a massive ice storm 6” of ice on branches, most of the branches that made it through the storm were below horizontal. Makes sense when you think of how much or little they bend in storms.
Great pruning video
Water sprouts can be trained into pseudo spurs along a good branch with apples. More fruit less space.
Thanks for the insight 😊
“ Frustrated by Pruning? Don't know where to Start? Overwhelmed? ”
Yes, yes and yes... my trees are too tall, and the one which we worked on last year
didn't produced any apples albeit it had flowers but we also had a cold snap after flowering, we didn’t do it right, clearly a fail. I must look at the rest of your videos
on pruning. Thanks for sharing.
I tried the methods you teached in the videos and its owesome
Glad to hear it!
Great video. A minor passing note, those growing off the branches are usually referred to as watersprouts. Suckers grow off the trunk.
Why are they called that?
@@yippikiyay197 Because they are mostly full of water. They grow fast, usually when a tree either suffers damage to a branch or the branch cannot reach ample sunlight where its positioned and they grow upright on the branch to try to gain more leaf surface space. Because of this they tend to be weaker than the branches they grow on and weigh down the branches which can cause further damage to the branch.
@@Boomer_in_the_Trees can you cut the water sprouts? Or make another tree from it like the sucker branch? Thanks
Thanks for the tip
thank you ~~ you Are AmaZinG !!!!! ❕❕❕❕💠 I really needed to hear this !!! 🌿🌿🌿🌱 🎼 🍏
You are so welcome
You are so informative
Thank you😊 pruning apple trees has been a confusing subject for me.
I found a wild apple tree outnin our 5 acre woods. It was full of apples last fall. Nature taking care of itself. Imagine that? 😊
Merci Stefan, il faut vraiment que je travaille mon anglais. Je m'inspire de tes techniques, je suis encore dans l'idée de laisser sa forme naturelle à l'arbre même si je sais pertinemment que l'angle de la branche et le géotropisme permettent une mise à fruit plus rapide.
Ici on greffe les fruits à noyaux en ce moment. Bonne journée.
I love this guy
Most of my tree's branches pointed straight up, if I had pruned them, the tree would have been almost gone. Now they're drooping, so I think the upward pointing branches will soon become useful.
This is an interesting approach to pruning. If I did that however I would have nothing left but the trunk. Deer have trained my trees to grow straight up. All of the limbs come out shooting straight for the sky and if even a single one goes even at a 45° angle it is either eaten off or broken off. Last summer I installed a 3-D electric fence so hopefully now I can finally start proper training but I think I’m going to have to make severe cuts in order to promote new limb growth and hope that I can train the new limbs to a less steep angle.
Yes, start with removing the most vertical branches and in three years your trees will be completely transformed to below horizontal and be highly productive and low maintenance.
For what it’s worth, Perma Pastures Farm sells a bone sauce, based on Sepp Holzer’s recipe, that is phenomenal for repelling not only deer, but just about any plant predators. Not trying to shill, and don’t get any kickback, just trying to share good information.
I use low stress training to guide my trees. I don’t think I’ve ever actually pruned
Stefan what you seem to be describing here is a known auxin dominance hormonally within the tree... those branch angles and the propensity for branches to grow upright instead of horizontally is as I understand it a vegetative dominance and potentially a nitrate imbalance... tying branches to re-angle them is a manual process that can shift the hormonal balance to be more reproductive dominant, but this can also be done nutritionally. Anyway... great video. Mourning the loss of a great holistic orchardist today...Michael Phillips who suddenly passed. Thanks for all you do.
Yes a sad day. I didn’t want to discuss auxins to keep this video simpler, you’re right. I never heard of the nitrate imbalance and branch angle.
I didn't know Michael Phillips passed this spring! Very sad. I love his book Holistic Orchard. Ugh. 😔
Just about to buy an apple and pare tree..thanks a bunch.
A lesson I am learning the hard way. Thid sure shines light on a lot of what I've been seeing but not understanding. I am going after my saw ri right now.
So what about hanging weights on the branches? I understand that a tree won't set spurs on vertical branches, so no fruit will never weight them down. I've always been afraid of disease or damage under the cloth hanger.
Weights can work.
@@StefanSobkowiak I was just out there pruning today and realized I'm not that far off what I want my apple trees to be doing if I just trained them down. Paul Gautchi always said the fruit would train them, but they will never set fruit on the vertical branches all new growth seems to want to grow straight up. If they were at 15 degrees or less last year, they will bend to vertical on this year's growth. These trees are three and four years planted here. I think it was a huge mistake planting potted trees to begin with.
Thanks boss🎉❤
Nice 👍
Thank you so much for this tip. I can’t wait to do my pruning and training homework 🌳
Is this only for Apple trees? Or shoukd I be consistent with my pear, peaches, cherries, nut trees, elderberry, etc?
God bless you. You have a great gift from God to bless and love others. Your my favorite youtuber and I pray for you and your family often.
If you look back a bit he says pears are the exception 🍐🍐🍐🍐
Thank you, blessings received. Yes it works for all fruit and nuts except pears (keep pear branches to horizontal no lower).
Thanks!
Thanks, blessings.
Stefan! Thank you thank you! Can I apply this to my Stella cherry tree? Love you and appreciate all your videos. Merci from your neighbor in the NEK VT
Yes works great on cherries
"Don't eat the pistachio ice cream, it has turned!"
Excellent tips, I have found that hanging a heavy object, like an in-law, from the branches you want to keep for spatial geometry works well each spring; you don't have to keep them out there for long, convince them it is a spring glamping trip :)
Suckers have a lot to do with how heavily you prune your tree. They grow from latent nodes that become activated when the tree has too many leaf producing branches removed. Leaves create photosynthate, which it stores for growth and repair processes. When it loses its capacity to create enough photosynthate, it will use stored energy to push the growth of new leaves in order to meet its future energy needs. This is the mechanism by which latent nodes become activated to produce suckers and leaves. We want to start pruning the tops op apple trees early and avoid large woody cuts to maturing trees. Dont over thin. Fruit sets on twiggy interior woody growth. You can cut back that twiggy grown every year without removing it. Suckers can also indicate other stresses, but heavy pruning is the primary cause. Orchards prune heavily for a number of resons, but i you want lovely trees that live longer, do not remove the crown of your tree. Get your shape and prune it down to that same area annually. Not to discount anything this gentleman says.
God bless you brother as you speak i hear the word haha :)
I took your pruning course and it was very good but it seems more geared to older trees. I have a lot of young trees and, of course, the branches all reach for the sky! There are only a few to choose from...no way I can have 15ish branches right now. Do I just cut 1 branch per year and hope the new growth will be in a position to train it downwards? Most of the time those new branches just want to spike up near parallel to the trunk!Thanks! I always love your videos 😄
Thanks for the comments, for young trees mostly train rather than prune. Not pruning will allow your tree to produce earlier.
good video
Wow. I was really convinced to buy the pruning course but $187!! What’s nice about the internet is that you can reach a lot of people and charge a small amount times many, many buyers. I guess he’s only trying to reach the professional pruners. Which is good but too pricey for me. But I do love his humor and knowledge and intend to stay subscribed to his channel. Don’t mind the commercial. He should be compensated for the views. And I will share his videos so he gets more views 😊.
Thanks Teri. Let me suggest you look at the first video from the course, it’s free and describes the simplest 3 step pruning approach I’ve ever seen.
I have apple trees 4 to 7 year old. My older ones produced a small bit last year. I want to train the trees to be like you're saying.
I was thinking about hanging 16oz pop bottles with water appropriated to each branch to weight down branches.
I know they can be tied down to train but would weights work too?
Is it the same for pear trees. Thanks for a great video Stephan.
Almost, just bend pear branches to horizontal, not below horizontal.
Great video thanks. Just had a look at my Bramley cooking apple tree (UK) and all the branches from the trunk are above horizontal, almost vertical. Maybe I ought to consider removing some?
If they are not more than 4-5 cm you can bend them or spread them away from the trunk.
Awesome information Stefan. Looking at your apples, doesn’t look like there are bugs in them. I am so discouraged with my apples and pears full of little worms in them…I wish I could just bite right in the apple without having to cut it piece by piece and remove the bad parts. I want to stay without pesticide. I pick up all the fallen apple and throw the really bad ones away in the garbage so there aren’t many larvas in the soil for the spring, put some ash around the trees to try and kill the ones that made it there….What do you do? Thanks for teaching us how to do better.
I trap for the insects that go into the fruit (codling moth and apple maggot fly). I have videos on each trap and how to setup (under insects playlist).
Thank you! Do you have any similar tips for apricot trees? I see I have a lot of suckers on mine this year.
Train the branches down if you can. Try to avoid pruning apricot, they can grow like crazy.
@@StefanSobkowiak Ok - it looks like i have a hundred suckers going straight up this year...
I'm tired of getting suckered in! Thank you
You Gonna Hold That Sucker Down
I prune about 10 thousand, 10 foot 30 years or older mazzard root stock cherry trees per year, the main issue I find in most cherry orchards is that once the trees are allowed to grow over 10 feet, and do not get punned sufficiently or a year or 2 is skipped, is that the top canopy will over shade the lower trunk, and then lower branch growth is lost, so the tree becomes more like a tall evergreen in a forest, with nice straight grain, yet sadly 80 percent of the crop is 8 feet or higher in the air. new farmers where thinking that keeping a lot of fruit up high would then not get frost damage, but then when hot summers arrive most of the fruit on top is sun damaged. so I prune the trees back in to a 10 foot spade cone shape, too maximize photo transpiration, photosynthesis and a thermal dynamic of heat and cooling. one mistake is that new workers will not want to get on a ladder or on a hydraulic cherry picker and just snip away too many lower fine branches that I need to rebuild the lower fruiting branches. as in my reality I am no longer using just a one or 2 step method, like in smaller root stocks, I am using more like a 4 to 5 step method, this way its not like a 50 year old is past production in life, yet such deep roots and long horizontal roots bringing up such deep nutrients is just staring to produce better fruit. as too much food is produced in the world with short root hybrid grain, or very small short lived root stocks. at about 30 years the fruit tree pruning mulched and or burned is becoming more like a soft forest floor that helps water retention. where sadly today most orchards are just planted for short term production of less then 12 years.
I agree with your observation. Taller longer lasting roots give better fruit. Makes sense since they access farther and deeper root zones. The move towards smaller rootstock is practical and economical for management but requires a more rigorous fertilisation especially with minerals which is what gives flavour.
Unfortunately, my crab apple tree is enormous. Lost one of the trunks to borers one year and left with three. All have water sprouts everywhere. It's just really too big. Every video I see has small trees.
Thank you for the tips Stefan!
Yes train the branches if possible , especially the young ones. Train is bending.
Thank you! I'll have new apple trees this spring so your information is very important for me! I don't know if I can ask a question? One of my apple tree died of fire blight few years back. It is still there, just a stick in the ground. Is it safe to replace it with another apple tree or I should find another place and forget forever about this exact spot?
I'm no expert on fireblight (as in no experience with it) but I'd say if it's in your area, the exact spot doesn't matter as much as the cultivar of apple you plant. Get a blight resistant cultivar.
It's also possible that the spot is somehow unideal for apple trees in general, remember that stressed weak plants are more prone to getting sick.
The other reply is correct, some cultivars are very susceptible, avoid them. That spot may have too high water table. Best to rotate to something else even for a couple of years then you can try again.
@@StefanSobkowiak Thank you!
@@Tsuchimursu Thank you!
Hi Stefan. Thanks for all you do! How would you alter this if you were pruning fruit trees for espalier? I am doing a Belgian fence and am puzzled about how to tip the fruiting branches downward.
I don't know what form is a Belgian fence but I would leave a central leader and train all branches along the fence downward on each side. That way the branches will get fully fruitful and be easy to manage. Choose one of the dwarfing rootstocks or your top will go nuts. Bend the top downward and that's it. DON'T Prune the branches to shape them, bend them.
@@StefanSobkowiak Thanks, I'll give that a try.
So, the suckers come out to try and get to the top? For more sun? Do you explain why below horizontal branches won't sucker in your course??
Yes i do, but it’s all in the hormones, auxins direct branch growth, either for new tops or fruiting branches.
Im assuming this applies to all trees. Ive been cutting suckers from ornamental pear trees in Chicago area... ill watch the videos! thanks!
Except pears which should be horizontal not below.
Would love to hear more about training, from Stefan and from commenters. I've been trying to train a few branches but the cheap ropes I've used to hold them down keeps degrading. So I should get something good and not have to keep replacing it! Anyone have a suggestion for the best rope/twine/wire to use that will last? Any tips on stakes? (I've tried typical short-ish (
I should do a video on training branches.
@@StefanSobkowiak PLEASE DO!
@@StefanSobkowiak Yes please!
@@StefanSobkowiak YES Please!! I have about 20 brand new bareroot trees we planted a month ago, I want to learn how to do this NOW so they can grow best. It was a huge investment for us and I'm keen to do the best I can. I love your videos Stefan!
This is great! We have a very old apple tree that has mainly vehicle branches. What would you do then? How do you do that when they are almost all verticle?
I would remove 1-2 of the most vertical per year for 3 years and train the new growth to be horizontal or below horizontal. This way over 3 years you still get crop while the tree transforms to an easy to manage branch pattern.
Ok! Thank you!! Also, I watched your other videos about Apple tree that won't produce, but you did not cover this- this apple tree flowers and even grows little apples, but then they all fall off before maturity. Why would that be?
It’s normal that a good number fall off, it’s called June drop but not normal for all to fall off. It’s either a lack of pollination or a specific nutrient deficiency like boron or some other trace element.
This small video has changed how I view fruit trees completely :)
Does this same concept apply for pears, plums, cherries etc. as well?
Yes it does! Except for pears which should not be trained below horizontal.
Amazing, thanks :)
Planting a small home orchard next autumn. Struggling a lot with spacing, because I have multiple different root stocks, but I figure to just give them lots of room, and then fill any gaps with shrubs. I've been binging your videos recently, there is so much information in them. Changed my views on wasps too. I still hate them, but now I also love them :P
What’s the science behind this? Why would branch angle determine whether or not it has suckers?
Look up auxins as a plant hormone and see it’s effects on apical dominance.
Is that true for most all fruiting trees, or is that only for apple? I was starting to do something like that on my stone fruit trees, but then heard not to go past 45⁰ from vertical. I had started weighing down my young tender branches, but then stopped when I heard I shouldn't be so aggressive with my branch angles.
First few minutes, wasn't it said any fruit tree?
Yes almost all fruit and nuts will do better with this technique (training rather than pruning in early years) except for pears which should be horizontal not below.
@@StefanSobkowiak thanks for pointing this out!
@@StefanSobkowiak ok so i just learned that when you install a new fruit tree you should prune heavily to encourage root growth. Is this still true or?
@@zondreajohnson-clark7612 He just said in the comment above, from what I am deciphering, pruning is not the thing to do with young fruit trees, just train them with weights. Except pear trees, they should all be below horizontal, but pears, they need to be horizontal, not so much weighing required. I find Pears often tend to go downward easily, if I tried to do it too much, they might fold to the trunk below, not sure!
Does this pruning method apply to pear trees?
Ok so cut the branches above horizontal and all branches start out above horizontal for at least two years. Pretty straight forward.
I would like to know how muck proving you have to do with all those down angles? I do see your point on the pruning part.
Proving? I just look at my trees and what they do.
Watched most of your videos. I remember you saying you regretted some spacings on trees/. Now these trees look MUCH larger than other trees Ive seen in your videos. What is your current spacing for the trio ?
It ranges from 8’x12’ to 28’x24’
Im interested in your opinion about training/pruning peaches. Usually the central leader is removed early and the tree is pruned to a vase like shape. That way the training the branches below horizontal becomes more dificult and they will be farther away from the center of the tree and i dont like it. Also peaches grown fruit on one year wood.
And here comes the question: Do you think leaving the central leader of the peach tree and traing the enough branches to be horizontal will produce fruit and not make a sucker fighter? I
have the book: Growing Fruit Trees: Novel Concepts and Practices for Successful Care and Management and even there they suggest a lot of pruning and vase shape and i didnt find any similar training that looks like yours on the net yet.
I’ve seen peach grown from seed and never pruned loaded with fruit on well placed branches on a central leader at 4 years. I guess the tree knows best. Try one that’s never been messed with, it’s impressive.
@@StefanSobkowiak
Does branch angle affect how pear trees produce suckers and fruit? I just planted one this spring and came across your videos when researching how to prune fruit trees.
How do you train the branches, tie-down with rope to a stake in the ground?
We use pre-formed wires to grab the branch with one end and the other to the trunk.
@@StefanSobkowiak What do you mean by "pre-formed" -- Thanks!!
We bend them in the workshop before going out in the orchard. Extra pigtails on each end to be safe to use.
WHY does the Fruit Tree produce Water Sprouts if not to benefit the Tree ( more leaves for photosynthesis/energy! ) in some way ?
Waterspouts are pretty well wasted energy
The first step of pruning should be deer control. I wish I would’ve installed a 3-D electric fence around my orchard at the same time if planting my trees. My trees are so severely damaged now (5 years later) that I am not sure they will ever be corrected before their lifespan is over.
After you install your deer fence you can do a retraining pruning and your trees will return to normal.
Check out Bone Sauce made by Billy @ Perma-Pastures Farm, here on YT. His formula works, no deer problems, no fence necessary. He also subscribes to this channel and frequently mentions Stefan’s methods for fruit trees.
I applied Plantskydd to my 1000 tree permaculture orchard this year and this was the first year the deer, so far, have not destroyed my trees. By now, every year, they would eat pretty much every good bud I had on my trees.
I "sprayed" them last year with Plantskydd, and it didnt work. This year I decided to "brush" them with a paint brush, with the Plantskydd applied uniformly, and that worked. I used half as much, and covered 10 times more. Its organic as well. I have a shit load of deer around, and am surrounded by 1000s of acres of mostly, less desirable deer browse. At any rate, totally worth it to use these methods.
I am 67 years old. I have tried to learn to prune fruit trees for the last 40 years but no luck. I like to learn to prune before I leave this world. I did one think you said and it worked. I stopped giving fertilizer to Crepe Myrtel and Aphids went away. I tend to believe you. What about a pear tree that almost all the branches shoot straight up?
Nice. For pears bend the branches to a horizontal angle except the main trunk. They will switch to fruitful branches within a couple of years.
Did I hear a chicken at 1:02 ? Lol
Is it the same process for plumb, cherry and most other fruit trees?
Yes except pear, keep pear horizontal not below.
💚
Does your course offer solutions to mature apple trees which are 20 years old?
These trees are 40 and 15 years old. We hope to add one video this year to the course specifically about abandoned old tree.
How can I boost my flowering Please Suggest me spray on pink bud and everything
You can try liquid fish and seaweed.
I have 2 pear trees that haven't been pruned before. Almost all of the main branches grow up, very bad branch angles. I'd practically have to strip it off branches to fix. Any suggestions?
When there are many trunks you can cut some of them out, not all the same year. And or treat each of the trunks as separate trees and let them grow branches.