Great vid. I used to work for oil 4 wales and I’ve seen so many of these boilers. I hated the heatslave 1 internal due to how awkward it was to get the expansion vessel out due to all the cables and stats. I’ve had a few stats snap on me before now. Can’t beat the external dansmore single feed especially when we can park the van next to it. We called that the Carlsberg
Thanks mate, I do love an external boiler especially on a nice day, they make life so much easier for the engineer when everything easy to get to and easy to work on, thanks for watching
Looks like somebody has used vice grips on the ev flexi. Most important part of an oil boiler service in my opinion is the oil filter. In my area very view plumbers/oil techs actually bother inspecting the oil filter.
Hi Tom, I have a heatslave 25/32 -0s0-gb oil boiler. The heating works fine but the hot water takes about minute from turning on the tap to the burner firing up and go cold from time to time intermittently. Any ideas? Great video.
First video I’ve seen of my boiler - was hoping you’d show where to bleed it to get rid of an airlock. Oil ran out 2 days ago, just filled the tank and going into lockout when trying to reset. I’ve got pressure back into the system already
I have this boiler. It’s on lock out at the moment, need to bleed air out the system I think. Where is the bleed valve on this? Someone has said to me near the red flashing light on top but even reading manual back to front, I can’t find it. The lock out reset just under the front face panel isn’t working so need to find the valve on the top!
Hi mate, the bleed point for the oil is on the right hand side, the back one is the bleed point, make sure nit to adjust the front one as this is the pump pressure, even a small adjustment on the pump pressure will make for big combustion problems, I will post a link to another of my videos where I am bleeding the oil on this model, skip to about 7 minutes and it should show you the place to bleed from, hope this helps ruclips.net/video/rnDDbF1Dofs/видео.html
These boilers don't have a internal fill loop, there will be one but sometimes they get put in weird places, it will look like a silver braided hose with two black taps, if it hasn't been used in a while they may be quite stiff to turn, normally they are just above the boiler but I have seen them under kitchen sinks or in old airing cupboards
Hi mate, on these boilers I just use wonder wipes to clean off each of the individual fins, it's not recommended to use wire brushes or chemicals, normally they do clean up Ok but if they have not been done in a while they can take a little bit of time, hope this helps, thanks for watching 👍
@@PlumbLikeTom Yes that would be good, thanks ! I would have liked to see inside the secondary heat exchanger too if possible (I assume this is a condensing oil boiler). Is that a single vertical water tube @ 4:22 ?? I assume this runs on kerosene being a condensing oil boiler, is the correct flame colour blue with some yellow? Please advise. On gas oil (Diesel) it would be all yellow I think. I understand that gas oil isn't used on condensing boilers because of the high ash content in the fuel which fouls up the secondary heat exchamger.
@@Martindyna The newer condensing boilers have internal water ways on all sides and the bottom, this one will only have side and back i believe. Yes this boiler runs on kerosene as do most if not all condensing boilers in the uk. Gas oil burns at a hotter temperature to kerosene. The flame should be blue as you say. Always set the boiler to manufacture instructions but generally if you set the air to 34 percent on your analyser your co2 will be around 11.5 which is normally ok for these boilers
@@PlumbLikeTom I wondered whether the flame on this Worcester should be mainly blue but with some yellow? Since Navien (South Korea) infer that their blue flame condensing oil boiler is unusual in having an entirely blue flame. Seems a good company and they export to USA & China as well as the UK I understand. Of course blue flame burners are not new, in the past there was the Howden Dynaflame (fitted to early Worcester HDII boilers in the 60s) which was an improvement on the American 1940s Wallflame burner; and the Yorkpark Microstar both of which have been discontinued I understand.
Thank you for this video and your Channel.@6:09-do the baffles on this heatslave have some sort of lagging/insulation?Can you use a chemical cleaner to clean secondary heat exchanger.Nice to see oil servicing as stated below.If the flexi to the expansion vessel is blocked how would you diagnose this other than the prv letting by.Thanks again.Look forward to your seeing your other videos.
The baffles on these are just solid metal with no insulation designed to divert heat to the sides and top of the combustion chamber, you can use cleaners for the secondary but most of the time i find they will just wipe of quite well with wonder wipes or equivalent. You can find out if a hose is blocked on an expansion by connecting your foot pump to the vessel and see if the pressure gauge rises slightly on the boiler, thanks for watching
I have a danesmoor 15/19 in a property left to my mother from my grandparents, just had new radiators fitted and all works OK apart from the fact the heating comes on when the hot water is run maybe diverter valve? the CH side I set to 0 with HW set to 2.
It does sound like a diverter valve issue, it will probably be worth changing the hole valve if its passing through to the heating side, hope this helps in some way
@@PlumbLikeTom thanks Tom. When the old radiators were taken off for plastering and decorating I must have accidently knocked one of the valves upstairs whilst getting rid of rubble. Most of the water emptied through the kitchen ceiling! I only noticed when I popped round the following day and wondered why the kitchen floor had a giant pool of brown water! As a result the pump was knackered and so that was a £130 fix. I think those diverter valves are about £150.
Its normally removing the baffles that is the biggest problem, sometimes the heat can warp them making them tricky to remove/reinstall. Just make sure the baffles are the correct way up and in the correct order and should go back in
I have a heatslave 20/25. The heat exchanger is leaking. I have a replacement to see us by until a new boiler is fitted in 6 weeks. The 4 pipes going in to heat exchanger, is there a constant feed of water. Do I need to turn the mains off before switching the heat exchanger?
Hi, do you mean the plate heat exchanger or the main heat exchanger? If you are changing the plate ( the silver one on the top left) then yes this will require the mains isolating and the heating circuit draining. This should be quite an easy job. I would not attempt to change the main heat exchanger on that particular unless you are extremely competent on boilers. Hope this helps, any more questions just ask.
@@PlumbLikeTom yeah the one that sits on top on left above the insulated tank that i presume holds an amount of hot water. Boiler is losing pressure and leaking from that exchanger and pooling on top of tank. Getting a new one in 6 weeks but trying to sort issue so we can have a shower until then
Thanks for the vid, i have this exact boiler and its also been stood for a while. Ive got it running but the burner keeps cutting in and out whilst running. Its had new photocell, control box, nozzle, fuel lines and new fuel. Any ideas what it could be ? its driving me nuts! Dave.
Thanks very much for your reply, yes it runs ok apart from burner cutting in and out intermittently and then locking out, could that be a result of the solenoid ?
@@judaston1448 Yes, if the boiler runs when cold, locks out after a while then resets again when cold, it will most likely be the solenoid on the oil pump
Worcester greenslave oil central heating boiler,keeps locking out 588 code comes up, Worcester engineer came,checked contamination of the tank,ok,fuel filters,ok,new jet,ok,no air in the system,done a diagnosis check all working as it should,while here all working then he left and cut out again,same fault code F9 588 .phoned him he said can only be the fuel pump,any ideas,thanks
It is likely to be an issue with the fuel pump or line, If it was me I would change the pump, I've seen it a couple of times on jobs where there has been a tiny leak on the supply line causing air to be drawn in causing random lockouts, you can connect a vacuum gauge on the V port of the pump and this will confirm if there is a problem with the line
Can I change the flexible hoses myself same boiler 6 years old labels says to change,boiler keeps cutting out,says low on fuel but 100 litres in the tank
The hoses will need changing but it's unlikely to be the cause of lockout, is it an intermitant lockout ? if the boiler lockouts consistently after 8 to 10 seconds and you have fuel at the oil pump it will most likely be the photocell, if you have access to a multimeter this is really easy to check, if the boiler intermittently lockouts it will probably be the solenoid on the oil pump
@@terencekeating It's likely to be the solenoid on the oil pump, new hoses and a nozzle change wouldn't be a bad idea if they haven't been done in a while
@@PlumbLikeTom the nozzle has been changed,pipes not there are 2 pipes both with card's stating replacement date's saying Feb 2023, engineer said he was going to replace next time,i have ordered water contamination paste,as this happend 2 day's after i had a 500 litres top up,looking now i reset it 3 hours ago and still going at the moment,so a check by an engineer at this time proberly won't show a fault,,in the Manuel it show's the part number for the oil pipe,do i have to order 2 ,thanks for your help fault was showing on cut out 588,
Hi mate, it might just need recharging, to do this you will need to connect a foot pump or bike pump to the connection on the vessel, you then need to open a drain valve to release the pressure, keep this open whilst pumping and inflate the vessel to 1bar, the water in the vessel will be displaced by the air. This is the first thing to try, it may also be that the vessel has split internally in which case it will require replacing, hope this helps, any more questions feel free to ask
You bloody beaut! I've been looking for my boiler for ages! Thank you thank you 😊
You’re welcome 😊
Great vid. I used to work for oil 4 wales and I’ve seen so many of these boilers. I hated the heatslave 1 internal due to how awkward it was to get the expansion vessel out due to all the cables and stats. I’ve had a few stats snap on me before now. Can’t beat the external dansmore single feed especially when we can park the van next to it. We called that the Carlsberg
Thanks mate, I do love an external boiler especially on a nice day, they make life so much easier for the engineer when everything easy to get to and easy to work on, thanks for watching
Carlsberg 😄😄
Great video. Glad someone doing some oil boilers don't see many on here and I find them interesting. I just do gas.
Bradford
Thanks for the kind words
Looks like somebody has used vice grips on the ev flexi.
Most important part of an oil boiler service in my opinion is the oil filter.
In my area very view plumbers/oil techs actually bother inspecting the oil filter.
I had an expansion vessel - pump and a new fire valve fitted last week £1500 - was I ripped off?
Hi Tom, I have a heatslave 25/32 -0s0-gb oil boiler. The heating works fine but the hot water takes about minute from turning on the tap to the burner firing up and go cold from time to time intermittently. Any ideas? Great video.
Sorry for my slow relpy, It could just be the flow switch, if the hot water is going cold though the plate heat exchanger may be scaled up
Can you do a video on how to bleed this boiler if air gets trapped in there?
I can, thanks for watching
First video I’ve seen of my boiler - was hoping you’d show where to bleed it to get rid of an airlock. Oil ran out 2 days ago, just filled the tank and going into lockout when trying to reset. I’ve got pressure back into the system already
Sorry mate, I have posted a video recently on how to bleed this boiler, if you have not already sorted it I will post a link
ruclips.net/video/6CHlli1O8Ww/видео.html
I show bleeding at around 2:04
I have this boiler. It’s on lock out at the moment, need to bleed air out the system I think. Where is the bleed valve on this? Someone has said to me near the red flashing light on top but even reading manual back to front, I can’t find it. The lock out reset just under the front face panel isn’t working so need to find the valve on the top!
Hi mate, the bleed point for the oil is on the right hand side, the back one is the bleed point, make sure nit to adjust the front one as this is the pump pressure, even a small adjustment on the pump pressure will make for big combustion problems, I will post a link to another of my videos where I am bleeding the oil on this model, skip to about 7 minutes and it should show you the place to bleed from, hope this helps
ruclips.net/video/rnDDbF1Dofs/видео.html
Hi I got one of these, cant find water inlet to increase pressure after bleeding rads, can you show where the cold water in feed is please.
These boilers don't have a internal fill loop, there will be one but sometimes they get put in weird places, it will look like a silver braided hose with two black taps, if it hasn't been used in a while they may be quite stiff to turn, normally they are just above the boiler but I have seen them under kitchen sinks or in old airing cupboards
How do you service the secondary heat exchanger?
Hi mate, on these boilers I just use wonder wipes to clean off each of the individual fins, it's not recommended to use wire brushes or chemicals, normally they do clean up Ok but if they have not been done in a while they can take a little bit of time, hope this helps, thanks for watching 👍
Interesting video but a shame there's no part 2 to see it running ok.
I can make a part two if you want to see it running
@@PlumbLikeTom Yes that would be good, thanks ! I would have liked to see inside the secondary heat exchanger too if possible (I assume this is a condensing oil boiler).
Is that a single vertical water tube @ 4:22 ?? I assume this runs on kerosene being a condensing oil boiler, is the correct flame colour blue with some yellow? Please advise. On gas oil (Diesel) it would be all yellow I think. I understand that gas oil isn't used on condensing boilers because of the high ash content in the fuel which fouls up the secondary heat exchamger.
@@Martindyna The newer condensing boilers have internal water ways on all sides and the bottom, this one will only have side and back i believe. Yes this boiler runs on kerosene as do most if not all condensing boilers in the uk. Gas oil burns at a hotter temperature to kerosene. The flame should be blue as you say. Always set the boiler to manufacture instructions but generally if you set the air to 34 percent on your analyser your co2 will be around 11.5 which is normally ok for these boilers
@@PlumbLikeTom I wondered whether the flame on this Worcester should be mainly blue but with some yellow?
Since Navien (South Korea) infer that their blue flame condensing oil boiler is unusual in having an entirely blue flame.
Seems a good company and they export to USA & China as well as the UK I understand.
Of course blue flame burners are not new, in the past there was the Howden Dynaflame (fitted to early Worcester HDII boilers in the 60s) which was an improvement on the American 1940s Wallflame burner; and the Yorkpark Microstar both of which have been discontinued I understand.
@@PlumbLikeTom If you do make a part 2 it would be cool if you could video the flame pattern please if possible.
Thank you for this video and your Channel.@6:09-do the baffles on this heatslave have some sort of lagging/insulation?Can you use a chemical cleaner to clean secondary heat exchanger.Nice to see oil servicing as stated below.If the flexi to the expansion vessel is blocked how would you diagnose this other than the prv letting by.Thanks again.Look forward to your seeing your other videos.
The baffles on these are just solid metal with no insulation designed to divert heat to the sides and top of the combustion chamber, you can use cleaners for the secondary but most of the time i find they will just wipe of quite well with wonder wipes or equivalent. You can find out if a hose is blocked on an expansion by connecting your foot pump to the vessel and see if the pressure gauge rises slightly on the boiler, thanks for watching
@@PlumbLikeTom Thanks for taking the time to reply.Much appreciated.Good tip for checking the hose.Keep up with the great content.
I have a danesmoor 15/19 in a property left to my mother from my grandparents, just had new radiators fitted and all works OK apart from the fact the heating comes on when the hot water is run maybe diverter valve? the CH side I set to 0 with HW set to 2.
It does sound like a diverter valve issue, it will probably be worth changing the hole valve if its passing through to the heating side, hope this helps in some way
@@PlumbLikeTom thanks Tom. When the old radiators were taken off for plastering and decorating I must have accidently knocked one of the valves upstairs whilst getting rid of rubble. Most of the water emptied through the kitchen ceiling! I only noticed when I popped round the following day and wondered why the kitchen floor had a giant pool of brown water! As a result the pump was knackered and so that was a £130 fix. I think those diverter valves are about £150.
i do have a wocester 20/25 heat slave following the manual i cant seem t0 fit the baffles correctly any advice would be appericated
Its normally removing the baffles that is the biggest problem, sometimes the heat can warp them making them tricky to remove/reinstall. Just make sure the baffles are the correct way up and in the correct order and should go back in
I have a heatslave 20/25. The heat exchanger is leaking. I have a replacement to see us by until a new boiler is fitted in 6 weeks. The 4 pipes going in to heat exchanger, is there a constant feed of water. Do I need to turn the mains off before switching the heat exchanger?
Hi, do you mean the plate heat exchanger or the main heat exchanger? If you are changing the plate ( the silver one on the top left) then yes this will require the mains isolating and the heating circuit draining. This should be quite an easy job. I would not attempt to change the main heat exchanger on that particular unless you are extremely competent on boilers. Hope this helps, any more questions just ask.
@@PlumbLikeTom yeah the one that sits on top on left above the insulated tank that i presume holds an amount of hot water. Boiler is losing pressure and leaking from that exchanger and pooling on top of tank. Getting a new one in 6 weeks but trying to sort issue so we can have a shower until then
Thanks for the vid, i have this exact boiler and its also been stood for a while. Ive got it running but the burner keeps cutting in and out whilst running. Its had new photocell, control box, nozzle, fuel lines and new fuel.
Any ideas what it could be ? its driving me nuts!
Dave.
It will most likely be the solenoid on the oil pump mate, does it sound to be running ok when it is firing?
Thanks very much for your reply, yes it runs ok apart from burner cutting in and out intermittently and then locking out, could that be a result of the solenoid ?
@@judaston1448 Yes, if the boiler runs when cold, locks out after a while then resets again when cold, it will most likely be the solenoid on the oil pump
Thanks a lot mate, thats a great help, its got to be worth a try !
😊
Worcester greenslave oil central heating boiler,keeps locking out 588 code comes up, Worcester engineer came,checked contamination of the tank,ok,fuel filters,ok,new jet,ok,no air in the system,done a diagnosis check all working as it should,while here all working then he left and cut out again,same fault code F9 588 .phoned him he said can only be the fuel pump,any ideas,thanks
It is likely to be an issue with the fuel pump or line, If it was me I would change the pump, I've seen it a couple of times on jobs where there has been a tiny leak on the supply line causing air to be drawn in causing random lockouts, you can connect a vacuum gauge on the V port of the pump and this will confirm if there is a problem with the line
@@PlumbLikeTom the engineer said no air in the pump, insurance are going to put a new pump in, about 3 day's,thanks will let you know
Can I change the flexible hoses myself same boiler 6 years old labels says to change,boiler keeps cutting out,says low on fuel but 100 litres in the tank
1000litresin there
The hoses will need changing but it's unlikely to be the cause of lockout, is it an intermitant lockout ? if the boiler lockouts consistently after 8 to 10 seconds and you have fuel at the oil pump it will most likely be the photocell, if you have access to a multimeter this is really easy to check, if the boiler intermittently lockouts it will probably be the solenoid on the oil pump
It sometimes ok for 2 day's,and sometimes 4 times a day have to reset
@@terencekeating It's likely to be the solenoid on the oil pump, new hoses and a nozzle change wouldn't be a bad idea if they haven't been done in a while
@@PlumbLikeTom the nozzle has been changed,pipes not there are 2 pipes both with card's stating replacement date's saying Feb 2023, engineer said he was going to replace next time,i have ordered water contamination paste,as this happend 2 day's after i had a 500 litres top up,looking now i reset it 3 hours ago and still going at the moment,so a check by an engineer at this time proberly won't show a fault,,in the Manuel it show's the part number for the oil pipe,do i have to order 2 ,thanks for your help fault was showing on cut out 588,
Hi mateys. Please could you tell me why my pressure vessel is full of water. Cheers
Sorry I meant expansion chamber
Hi mate, it might just need recharging, to do this you will need to connect a foot pump or bike pump to the connection on the vessel, you then need to open a drain valve to release the pressure, keep this open whilst pumping and inflate the vessel to 1bar, the water in the vessel will be displaced by the air. This is the first thing to try, it may also be that the vessel has split internally in which case it will require replacing, hope this helps, any more questions feel free to ask
Felt sick with the camera darting about. Set up a tripod.
Sorry about that, this was one of the first videos I ever made, I do now have a tripod and have hopefully improved the camera work
Waving the damn camera all over the place I feel like throwing up now!
I can only apologise, it was one of the first videos I ever made, I know this doesn't help you though, thanks for watching anyway
Sorry but the camera swinging about was too distracting and I stopped watching partway in.