Great video, Greg! I have to agree with you. For me 61-63 hrc is the best compromise between sharpness, hardness and comfort of use. To me it does not feel fun to use a really hard knife if it is super chippy. I am also a sharpener, and even though i love it, grinding away at the same piece of steel for hours is not a fun challenge for me. Good to see you back. I hope all is well with you and your family. Cheers from Copenhagen, Denmark.
ok that is something i needed to hear. actually this video came to me at the exact right time. i am currently in the process of using a cnc mill to make my first knifes since i don't have a forge yet. and while at it i conisdered milling magnacut. and someone just recommending me a good hardness is worth a lot.
You're giving very sound and well grounded advice in this video Greg. Unless you want to dedicate a lot of time, and no small amount of money on this hobby or vocation, you will find happiness working with steels in the low 60's on the HRC - and there are a lot of wonderful knives made from materials in this range. I have a good number of powdered and specialty steel knives, and sharpening them is many times more of a challenge than it is fun - although I admit some are prized possessions for their craftsmanship and aesthetics (and probably some degree of vanity, if I'm honest with myself). But the knives I truly enjoy working on and using are from more mainstream materials such as Greg recommends.
Good breakdown! I've watched my fair share of knife videos and this is the first time I've seen someone focus on the key question for most people who just want to know the basics of what to look for in a decent all around knife. What's the length of the knife you mentioned at the end was your favorite? Looked like a gyuto? Thanks!
Cada punto de dureza, incrementa aproximadamente un 20 % la retención del filo. Es un dato importante para entender la diferencia entre cuchillos de 56-58 HRC, frente a cuchillos con una dureza de 64-66 HRC. Una diferencia de 160 % mayor de retención de filo no puede pasar desapercibida. Cada persona debe de encontrar su retención de filo acorde a sus necesidades. No es lo mismo un cocinero aficionado que utiliza el cuchillo 1 o 2 horas al día, que un cocinero profesional que necesita que mantenga el filo durante toda la jornada laboral como mínimo.
Great video detailing what exactly your in for when purchasing a high Rockwell hardness knife. It's like a high end supercar, it needs a different level of attention, maintenance and care. Which may be beyond what an owner can do at home or even wants to do.
This is an important video topic for me. My ZDP-189 Bunka Black and STRIX knives are super sharp, but what happens when they are dull? I ended up going down that rabbit hole and buying the slew of stones from Shapton 120 grit to Arashiyama 6,000 grit, and then to Kitayama 8,000. Will I be able to get these knives sharp if they ever were to dull? I have no idea, but I know I have the patience if there is a way forward.
Have you tried anything from the Acre Forge shop in Portland Oregon? I guess everybody there trained under Murray Carter for years and have started their own takefu knife village of sorts They've been running aebl at 62 and are using some modern stuff like apex ultra and 26c3 spicy white
In the Kitchen, I like the German knives. They are relatively inexpensive, tough, stainless, and easy to maintain and sharpen. I am not great at sharpening, but with the dual sided diamond stone and a strop with 1 micron diamond solution, even I can easily keep them as sharp as I need them to be.
The hardness needs to match what's right for the specific type of steel but the key to the quality rests on the quality of the heat treatment. Production line heat treatment is on the lower end of quality (and then pile on burnt edges, yuck). It's great seeing lots of the small/custom makers doing so well with high quality heat treats at higher RCs with both the "super steels" and with old boring steels that people have written off. Thickness is a huge factor re: flexibility. And geometry is so often overlooked/underappreciated by so many. Definitely good points re: harder knives needing proper types of stones (and grits) to sharpen with the same level of ease/efficiency. My first time sharpening a Fujiwara Denka was an eye opener. 🙂 Resin-bonded diamond stones take care of it now.
@@dimmacommunication Yeah, if you're already invested in e.g. non-diamond stones then it's a totally reasonable choice to stay away from steels that require you to upgrade to be able to sharpen at all/efficiently.
Sweet spot is 58-61. Global knives are 58, KAI VG10 is 61. Global is softer but 2-3 passes on steel and you restore the wicked sharpness.Also very easy to sharpen, no chips at all. My VG10 knife I use mostly for fruits and vegetables, its a petty knife. Also , for sharpening you need DMT coarse/fine and extra fine and Shapton 1000/3000 and if you want 5000 and a strop. For touching up you need Lansky crock sticks or more expensive Spyderco Sharpmaker. End of story, am I right ? Regards!
So I've been working in professional kitchens for over 10 years now.. what would perform better hard steel knives or knives with a thicker spine like a deba?
I graduated from German to Japanese knives several years ago. They are harder and cut much better than their German counterparts (I still use my German knives as well). I have both carbon steel and R2/SG2 powered SS blades and have no problem sharpening them. Once you have developed your technique using stones, you’re pretty much set. Don’t be intimidated by the higher Rockwell ratings. If your current stone collection can’t produce a decent edge then graduate to using diamond plates like the Atomas, they put an edge on anything currently on the market. I have a lot of EDCs in various specialty steels and all can be sharpened with diamonds.
At what point did your Japanese ceramic whetstones inhibit your sharpening, was it a 63,64,65,66 Rockwell knife? Or a particular steel? I've got good Suehiro Cerax whetstones, Green brick of joy, some Naniwa, King etc. I have many German knives which are soft in comparison to artisan Japanese cutlery. So it's not a problem for me just yet. However I will seek 2 or 3 Atoma plates in the future. They seem to be the best.
@@aussiehardwood6196 For reprofiling, the lower grit diamond plates like Atoma 140 & 400 won't clog up like the resin bonded diamond stones but boy do they carve scratches into the steel.
@@aussiehardwood6196 I got sick of dealing with soaking stones and so switched a good while back to Shapton Glass. The eye opener for me was when I got a Fujiwara Denka Nakiri. I haven't tested mine but people talk about those being 65-66 (with some saying as low as 64 or as high as 67). It definitely took a reset in my thinking to step back to starting on much lower grits than I usually would given the condition of the edge when I sharpened it for the first time on the Glass. Since then I've added a progression of (Venev) resin-bonded diamond stones. I just resharpened that knife recently and it was much quicker on the Venevs. I've be doing all of my "EDC" knives with their high HRC "super-steels" on the Venevs, too. Happy upgrade.
@@aussiehardwood6196 That’s a tough one to answer. I’ve had no problem sharpening ZDP-189 blades on my stones and they are rated at 63-65 or 65-67 HRC depending on which scale you’re looking at. I have not tried to sharpen my Maxamet blade yet and it’s a 68 HRC. I last used the Shapton Kuromaku stones for the ZDP but I believe that Naniwa or Suehiro stones should works as well. I have both and will give them a try. I have 7 Japanese kitchen knives, 2 x R2/SG2, 1 x VG10, 1 x Aogami super, 3 x Aogami blue #2, and they all sharpen very easily on ceramic stones. Kitchen knife makers can only push the HRC rating so far because the blades get brittle as the HRC rating goes up and there has to be a happy medium because these are working blades.
@@kencrane9726 Well that's all good news for me. I'm not sure I'd like the feel of feedback of diamond plates compared to whetstones but will probably get a few Atomas. I like the idea of not using a flattening stone too. For most of my knives I've already sharpened & aren't in bad shape, I'll start on my Cerax #1000 then finish on Naniwa "Green brick of joy" or Suehiro Rika #5000. My lowest grit stone is a #400. But your knives are the steels I'm getting into, I have a white steel single bevel long Japanese sugihiki? And a Nikiri white steel. My next knife will be an Anryu Gyuto in blue steel, I think they are around 62.
Most of my sharpening is for my wood shop tools, and most of that is around my lathe tools. One constant thread is sharpness. I think the consensus is that every metal can be taken to the same level of sharpness, but some are easier to get to that point than others. I am a fan of the diamond lapping plates, which now go up to 8000 grit, which should be fine for any kitchen. Most of my lathe tools are sharpened from 180 to 320 grit. Bench chisels and plane irons go to 16000, and all of these are stropped. Most lathe tools are not stropped. One side note, I have been looking for a Chinese style cleaver like the one you show here, and I have heard it called a "Mulberry knife" and it does have some flex to it. Most I can find that are called by that name are very rigid and not for fine slicing and dicing. Can you tell me where to get one? Thanks!
Flex is totally dependent upon geometry. It has absolutely nothing to do with hardness. It is a scientific principle known as Young's module of elasticity (if memory serves). Hardness has nothing to do with a knife's ability to flex. What hardness does determine is how the steel will fail. The softer/tougher the knife, the more the failure point, (which the failure point is exactly the same regardless of hardness) will be a bent knife. The hardner/stronger the knife, the more the failure point will be a snap in half. I hope that makes sense. It is not intuitive, and I know there will be comments saying otherwise, but it is a scientific fact. In other words, take two knives that are completely identical, but one is at 55HRC and the other is at 65HRC. Put the tang in a vice so the tip is vertical and apply a lateral load at the tip so that the knife starts flexing. I will use a random number, but let's say the 55HRC knife bends (not flex, but bends, as in failure, takes a set) at 50°. The 65HRC knife will also fail exactly at 50°, but its failure will be snapped in half, rather than take a set bend. Geometry dictates the failure point, the hardness dictates what that failure is, whether it is take a set bend, or snap in half.
The reason why your Super Blue Ryu knife (forgive me I am not that familiar with different makers from Japan) would not flex as much as the first German stainless steel knife was because it has a much thicker geometry. It's that simple. It has nothing to do with how hard the steel is. I am not trying to critize, at all, just to help with some info that seems counter intuitive.
And at the 9:30 mark, there are no molecules in steel. Steel is basically like a crystal lattice. It is made up of atoms arranged in a certain way. The bond between the elements, like carbon, iron, and the carbides is a completely different bond than the type found in molecules. In other words, iron carbide (cementite) is not a molecule, where dihydrogen monoxide (H2O) is a molecule. Vanadium carbide is not a molecule, nor are any carbides or structures in steel a molecule. Forget about the word molecule when discussing steel.
And to answer your question, my ideal carbon steel kitchen knife HRC is 64. A super blue (Aogomi Super) qyuto in 64HRC is my ideal carbon steel kitchen knife. However, AEB-L at 63HRC will have a bit better overall edge retention due to the harder K2 chromium carbides in AEB-L, and is what I use at home, as well as a 64HRC CPM154 chef's knife. I have a 67HRC ZDP189 large Santoku, and while it is a bit more difficult to sharpen, it is not too bad.
It's not a big problem sharpening a high HRC, but when it comes, and it will for certain come, the moment to thin out the blade, then it will be a real punishment
This is my subjective opinion. 60 HRC is a good sweet-spot for most steels in knives. 60 HRC is a bit high on the toughness scale (I consider 60 and above to be high) but at the same time it is where the toughness of most steels start to max out (though this is normally for more precise heat treatments). I am fine with higher hardness but I don't want to own a "Glass knife." Interestingly enough this is entirely steel and heat treatment dependent.
Personally for home use I prefer sub 60 HRC knives , easy touch up with the steel rod and there you go. For pros etc... could be cool to have 60> HRC for some tasks
The correct answer is less than 60. No professional chef would bother with higher. "The 61-63 is the sweet spot....this is a weekly or bi-weekly event to put on an edge..." If you're having to sharpen your knives with a stone weekly as a DOMESTIC cook - that's just stupid. Not to mention some of these stupid knives rust really quicky - no professional would bother with that nonsense. Once again the Germans have it right and Japanese are perfecting the art of square watermelons (pointlesness). "They will hold their edge longer". But they won't because they will just snap at a microscopic level.
If you look at all the videos of professional chefs working in Michelin kitchens about 70-80% of them have japanese knives. Also there are several stainless steels that the japanese smiths use that can get harder than 60. Lastly the point he made about "having" to sharpen every two weeks or so, well that only applies if you want to always have your knives screaming sharp. If you are a home cook you can get away with sharpening every couple of months, even with heavy use, and the knife will still be sharper than what most people have in their knife drawer.
@@nuttrubersrevenge "If you look at all the videos of professional chefs working in Michelin kitchens about 70-80% of them have japanese knives." Stop making up BS on the internet.
Great video, Greg!
I have to agree with you. For me 61-63 hrc is the best compromise between sharpness, hardness and comfort of use. To me it does not feel fun to use a really hard knife if it is super chippy.
I am also a sharpener, and even though i love it, grinding away at the same piece of steel for hours is not a fun challenge for me.
Good to see you back. I hope all is well with you and your family. Cheers from Copenhagen, Denmark.
I agree 62-63 is all you need. 65 and up you need diamond plates to easily sharpen them. It's never a dull moment 👌🤘
Great video, especially from a knife makers perspective..........
Great video thank you
ok that is something i needed to hear.
actually this video came to me at the exact right time.
i am currently in the process of using a cnc mill to make my first knifes since i don't have a forge yet.
and while at it i conisdered milling magnacut. and someone just recommending me a good hardness is worth a lot.
You're giving very sound and well grounded advice in this video Greg. Unless you want to dedicate a lot of time, and no small amount of money on this hobby or vocation, you will find happiness working with steels in the low 60's on the HRC - and there are a lot of wonderful knives made from materials in this range. I have a good number of powdered and specialty steel knives, and sharpening them is many times more of a challenge than it is fun - although I admit some are prized possessions for their craftsmanship and aesthetics (and probably some degree of vanity, if I'm honest with myself). But the knives I truly enjoy working on and using are from more mainstream materials such as Greg recommends.
Good breakdown!
I've watched my fair share of knife videos and this is the first time I've seen someone focus on the key question for most people who just want to know the basics of what to look for in a decent all around knife.
What's the length of the knife you mentioned at the end was your favorite? Looked like a gyuto? Thanks!
Great video. I think sweet spot is 61-62 HRC for home use. Have Miyabi 4000FC Gyutou 61 HRC.
Cada punto de dureza, incrementa aproximadamente un 20 % la retención del filo. Es un dato importante para entender la diferencia entre cuchillos de 56-58 HRC, frente a cuchillos con una dureza de 64-66 HRC. Una diferencia de 160 % mayor de retención de filo no puede pasar desapercibida.
Cada persona debe de encontrar su retención de filo acorde a sus necesidades. No es lo mismo un cocinero aficionado que utiliza el cuchillo 1 o 2 horas al día, que un cocinero profesional que necesita que mantenga el filo durante toda la jornada laboral como mínimo.
Great video detailing what exactly your in for when purchasing a high Rockwell hardness knife. It's like a high end supercar, it needs a different level of attention, maintenance and care. Which may be beyond what an owner can do at home or even wants to do.
How has the belt sharpening been going? I recently started using a 2x42
The Takamura SG2 is 62HRC
Yes 🙌
Good discussion Greg!
Danke für's Einstellen.
Interessantes Thema!
This is an important video topic for me. My ZDP-189 Bunka Black and STRIX knives are super sharp, but what happens when they are dull? I ended up going down that rabbit hole and buying the slew of stones from Shapton 120 grit to Arashiyama 6,000 grit, and then to Kitayama 8,000. Will I be able to get these knives sharp if they ever were to dull? I have no idea, but I know I have the patience if there is a way forward.
Have you tried anything from the Acre Forge shop in Portland Oregon?
I guess everybody there trained under Murray Carter for years and have started their own takefu knife village of sorts
They've been running aebl at 62 and are using some modern stuff like apex ultra and 26c3 spicy white
In the Kitchen, I like the German knives. They are relatively inexpensive, tough, stainless, and easy to maintain and sharpen. I am not great at sharpening, but with the dual sided diamond stone and a strop with 1 micron diamond solution, even I can easily keep them as sharp as I need them to be.
Hi Greg, have you ever done a knife war with yoshikane nashiji white #2 gyuto vs Masimoto ks ? This might throw up some interesting results 🤔
The hardness needs to match what's right for the specific type of steel but the key to the quality rests on the quality of the heat treatment. Production line heat treatment is on the lower end of quality (and then pile on burnt edges, yuck). It's great seeing lots of the small/custom makers doing so well with high quality heat treats at higher RCs with both the "super steels" and with old boring steels that people have written off.
Thickness is a huge factor re: flexibility. And geometry is so often overlooked/underappreciated by so many.
Definitely good points re: harder knives needing proper types of stones (and grits) to sharpen with the same level of ease/efficiency. My first time sharpening a Fujiwara Denka was an eye opener. 🙂 Resin-bonded diamond stones take care of it now.
@@_johnm There's a swiss maker that does wonders with Nitro-B, wich is a very inexpensive knife steel but works amazing with proper HT
@@dimmacommunication Indeed. One I saw recently was 1084 at a high HRC.
@@dimmacommunication And, with high-quality heat treatment at those higher end of the steel's range, they can be easier to sharpen well.
@@_johnm Yup, I have SG2 at 62 HRC and Vanadium is hard to sharpen, I prefer steels without vanadium, much better.
@@dimmacommunication Yeah, if you're already invested in e.g. non-diamond stones then it's a totally reasonable choice to stay away from steels that require you to upgrade to be able to sharpen at all/efficiently.
Sweet spot is 58-61. Global knives are 58, KAI VG10 is 61. Global is softer but 2-3 passes on steel and you restore the wicked sharpness.Also very easy to sharpen, no chips at all. My VG10 knife I use mostly for fruits and vegetables, its a petty knife.
Also , for sharpening you need DMT coarse/fine and extra fine and Shapton 1000/3000 and if you want 5000 and a strop.
For touching up you need Lansky crock sticks or more expensive Spyderco Sharpmaker.
End of story, am I right ?
Regards!
Could you leave a link to the video where you cut blueberrys?
So I've been working in professional kitchens for over 10 years now.. what would perform better hard steel knives or knives with a thicker spine like a deba?
I graduated from German to Japanese knives several years ago. They are harder and cut much better than their German counterparts (I still use my German knives as well). I have both carbon steel and R2/SG2 powered SS blades and have no problem sharpening them. Once you have developed your technique using stones, you’re pretty much set. Don’t be intimidated by the higher Rockwell ratings. If your current stone collection can’t produce a decent edge then graduate to using diamond plates like the Atomas, they put an edge on anything currently on the market. I have a lot of EDCs in various specialty steels and all can be sharpened with diamonds.
At what point did your Japanese ceramic whetstones inhibit your sharpening, was it a 63,64,65,66 Rockwell knife? Or a particular steel? I've got good Suehiro Cerax whetstones, Green brick of joy, some Naniwa, King etc. I have many German knives which are soft in comparison to artisan Japanese cutlery. So it's not a problem for me just yet. However I will seek 2 or 3 Atoma plates in the future. They seem to be the best.
@@aussiehardwood6196 For reprofiling, the lower grit diamond plates like Atoma 140 & 400 won't clog up like the resin bonded diamond stones but boy do they carve scratches into the steel.
@@aussiehardwood6196 I got sick of dealing with soaking stones and so switched a good while back to Shapton Glass. The eye opener for me was when I got a Fujiwara Denka Nakiri. I haven't tested mine but people talk about those being 65-66 (with some saying as low as 64 or as high as 67). It definitely took a reset in my thinking to step back to starting on much lower grits than I usually would given the condition of the edge when I sharpened it for the first time on the Glass. Since then I've added a progression of (Venev) resin-bonded diamond stones. I just resharpened that knife recently and it was much quicker on the Venevs. I've be doing all of my "EDC" knives with their high HRC "super-steels" on the Venevs, too. Happy upgrade.
@@aussiehardwood6196 That’s a tough one to answer. I’ve had no problem sharpening ZDP-189 blades on my stones and they are rated at 63-65 or 65-67 HRC depending on which scale you’re looking at. I have not tried to sharpen my Maxamet blade yet and it’s a 68 HRC. I last used the Shapton Kuromaku stones for the ZDP but I believe that Naniwa or Suehiro stones should works as well. I have both and will give them a try. I have 7 Japanese kitchen knives, 2 x R2/SG2, 1 x VG10, 1 x Aogami super, 3 x Aogami blue #2, and they all sharpen very easily on ceramic stones. Kitchen knife makers can only push the HRC rating so far because the blades get brittle as the HRC rating goes up and there has to be a happy medium because these are working blades.
@@kencrane9726 Well that's all good news for me. I'm not sure I'd like the feel of feedback of diamond plates compared to whetstones but will probably get a few Atomas. I like the idea of not using a flattening stone too. For most of my knives I've already sharpened & aren't in bad shape, I'll start on my Cerax #1000 then finish on Naniwa "Green brick of joy" or Suehiro Rika #5000. My lowest grit stone is a #400. But your knives are the steels I'm getting into, I have a white steel single bevel long Japanese sugihiki? And a Nikiri white steel. My next knife will be an Anryu Gyuto in blue steel, I think they are around 62.
Most of my sharpening is for my wood shop tools, and most of that is around my lathe tools. One constant thread is sharpness. I think the consensus is that every metal can be taken to the same level of sharpness, but some are easier to get to that point than others. I am a fan of the diamond lapping plates, which now go up to 8000 grit, which should be fine for any kitchen. Most of my lathe tools are sharpened from 180 to 320 grit. Bench chisels and plane irons go to 16000, and all of these are stropped. Most lathe tools are not stropped.
One side note, I have been looking for a Chinese style cleaver like the one you show here, and I have heard it called a "Mulberry knife" and it does have some flex to it. Most I can find that are called by that name are very rigid and not for fine slicing and dicing. Can you tell me where to get one? Thanks!
Looking forward to this
As i understand it German knives retain sharpness, however their apex can roll and a quick touch up on honing steel returns it to working order.
You could always commission a k390 knife in 67-68 hrc from me if you want super hard and insane edge rentetion
Flex is totally dependent upon geometry. It has absolutely nothing to do with hardness. It is a scientific principle known as Young's module of elasticity (if memory serves). Hardness has nothing to do with a knife's ability to flex. What hardness does determine is how the steel will fail. The softer/tougher the knife, the more the failure point, (which the failure point is exactly the same regardless of hardness) will be a bent knife. The hardner/stronger the knife, the more the failure point will be a snap in half. I hope that makes sense. It is not intuitive, and I know there will be comments saying otherwise, but it is a scientific fact.
In other words, take two knives that are completely identical, but one is at 55HRC and the other is at 65HRC. Put the tang in a vice so the tip is vertical and apply a lateral load at the tip so that the knife starts flexing. I will use a random number, but let's say the 55HRC knife bends (not flex, but bends, as in failure, takes a set) at 50°. The 65HRC knife will also fail exactly at 50°, but its failure will be snapped in half, rather than take a set bend. Geometry dictates the failure point, the hardness dictates what that failure is, whether it is take a set bend, or snap in half.
The reason why your Super Blue Ryu knife (forgive me I am not that familiar with different makers from Japan) would not flex as much as the first German stainless steel knife was because it has a much thicker geometry. It's that simple. It has nothing to do with how hard the steel is. I am not trying to critize, at all, just to help with some info that seems counter intuitive.
And at the 9:30 mark, there are no molecules in steel. Steel is basically like a crystal lattice. It is made up of atoms arranged in a certain way. The bond between the elements, like carbon, iron, and the carbides is a completely different bond than the type found in molecules. In other words, iron carbide (cementite) is not a molecule, where dihydrogen monoxide (H2O) is a molecule. Vanadium carbide is not a molecule, nor are any carbides or structures in steel a molecule. Forget about the word molecule when discussing steel.
And to answer your question, my ideal carbon steel kitchen knife HRC is 64. A super blue (Aogomi Super) qyuto in 64HRC is my ideal carbon steel kitchen knife. However, AEB-L at 63HRC will have a bit better overall edge retention due to the harder K2 chromium carbides in AEB-L, and is what I use at home, as well as a 64HRC CPM154 chef's knife. I have a 67HRC ZDP189 large Santoku, and while it is a bit more difficult to sharpen, it is not too bad.
That makes sense to me. I have some Sabathier knives from the 1950's that are very flexible, but seem to hold their edges forever.
Takamura r2 is 62 HRC though 😅
It's not a big problem sharpening a high HRC, but when it comes, and it will for certain come, the moment to thin out the blade, then it will be a real punishment
Hardness does not affect flexibility the flex comes from the grind not the HRC
This is my subjective opinion. 60 HRC is a good sweet-spot for most steels in knives. 60 HRC is a bit high on the toughness scale (I consider 60 and above to be high) but at the same time it is where the toughness of most steels start to max out (though this is normally for more precise heat treatments).
I am fine with higher hardness but I don't want to own a "Glass knife." Interestingly enough this is entirely steel and heat treatment dependent.
Personally for home use I prefer sub 60 HRC knives , easy touch up with the steel rod and there you go.
For pros etc... could be cool to have 60> HRC for some tasks
Favorite is around 61-63
Maybe interested in Indonesian natural Whetstone?
The correct answer is less than 60. No professional chef would bother with higher.
"The 61-63 is the sweet spot....this is a weekly or bi-weekly event to put on an edge..." If you're having to sharpen your knives with a stone weekly as a DOMESTIC cook - that's just stupid. Not to mention some of these stupid knives rust really quicky - no professional would bother with that nonsense. Once again the Germans have it right and Japanese are perfecting the art of square watermelons (pointlesness).
"They will hold their edge longer". But they won't because they will just snap at a microscopic level.
If you look at all the videos of professional chefs working in Michelin kitchens about 70-80% of them have japanese knives.
Also there are several stainless steels that the japanese smiths use that can get harder than 60.
Lastly the point he made about "having" to sharpen every two weeks or so, well that only applies if you want to always have your knives screaming sharp. If you are a home cook you can get away with sharpening every couple of months, even with heavy use, and the knife will still be sharper than what most people have in their knife drawer.
@@nuttrubersrevenge "If you look at all the videos of professional chefs working in Michelin kitchens about 70-80% of them have japanese knives."
Stop making up BS on the internet.
OK. So which German brand are you recommending then?
@@BravingTheOutDoors Wusthof, for instance.