Thanks for taking the time to make the video, some of us DIY people appreciate these videos that need a cheap fix and have a small budget, as I note the negative comment crew are not quick to post videos themselves. Thanks
Yes this is the laborious bit not shown. You'll have the old concrete base which is like two foot deep and lots of brick and stones. That is the actual hardest job and takes hours
Just a little tip .water at bottom of hole , half bag of post Crete , mix a bit , then add other half of post Crete add water to top and give a bit more of a mix to postcrete .it helps to ensure all of post Crete is dampened.
Postcrete is absolute magic stuff!! Had to do a fair bit of fence replacement a little while back (panels and posts utterly beyond hope) and decided to try a cheap petrol powered auger. It was surprisingly not rubbish for the price.
@@cutcrewltd One of my fence panels fell down last week because one of the adjacent seven foot posts completely worked it’s way loose (caused by the recent storms) and is now leaning over. I think the main culprit was a very short concrete spur, installed by the fencing contractor a few years ago. I’ve now bought a four foot spur. He also put the posts ten feet apart, which in my estimation was too wide, after having read on line that fencing posts should be six to eight feet apart. Thanks again.
The best way of putting a concrete spur onto a wooden post is to dig down 1.5 ft and place the concrete spur into the hole then bolt it onto the wooden post by using 6" bolts and washers. Then pour water into the hole and add in the post crete mixing as you add. Then using a spirit level, level the spur, add more water if needed mixing well until the post is firmly in place.
This method works well for mending posts. However, from my experience, 1/3 of the entire length of the post will be buried in concrete underground. Mine was surrounded by about 180kg of concrete. Furthermore, the post will be leaning because it has snapped at ground level (due to various reasons.) This makes the bugger almost impossible to mend this close to the ground in this way. Or, maybe whoever did our fence row simply liked pouring concrete but didn't add rainwater or runoff into consideration.
Everyone has their own opinion on how to do things, and no one is perfect! Done many of these over many years, and never had a complaint, must be doing it right then i guess!
I've just watched a similar repair on YT , where long steel flat rods were buried in concrete and screwed, on front and side of post, same effect, a bit quicker, and less visible.
This video helped me plan how to repair my fence post. If I had not seen this, I probably would have paid thousands to get a new fence put in because I didn't know any better. Get a life Gary, and maybe you'll learn to relax a little...
Certainly wouldn’t be happy with the length of those coach screws, at 100mm you would have less than an inch into the timber that could easily pull out. I would use M12 150mm with a decent pilot hole then especially with that impact you would get an excellent fixing. As you say it’s a cheap quick fix and the original concrete was certainly spared but I wouldn’t be too concerned as the new postmix should adhere to it and make a larger mass as a whole. I assume the disconnected aris rail at the other end of that fence section was fixed too. Good little video for the DIYer
Nice informative video. If you come across a job to do a fence on top of a brick wall or attaching fence posts to brick wall that would be lovely. Best wishes!
Hey Jack Thanks for the informative video. You just saved me time and money so I appreciate The wind snaps at least one my post each season … any advice?
@@cutcrewltd Thanks, biggest worry is digging the hole as the wooden post has already been replaced twice in the last 4 years. The area is subject to high wind and I need a stronger, more permanent solution. Thanks again for the video 👍
Good stuff. Less preamble at the start of videos and sharper editing will help your channel immensely. Keep up the good work and the very best for the future.
How did you get the concrete base out? The auger is good for digging the earth but can't cut the concrete. That is always the hard - removing the concrete base.
Was the original wooden fence post not concreted into the ground then, because I cant see how youd make a hole with that auger thing that close to the wooden post if it was concreted in. Surely the original concrete would be at least 150mm plus around the post?
I see you used an auger to dig hole. However, if the old concrete is jutting out from the edge of the old post hasn't it to be broken out to enable a flush fit for the spur up against the post and to true it? I see you did not show that. An auger won't dig through the old post crete will it? For some diy types that would be the real ball ache in this repair.
Great video fella! Spent a lot of my younger years around Northamptonshire! Great channel! I’d like to see an arris rail fence install as I need to do mine. The posts are rotten and need to learn how to do the feather edge. Cheers
matt feather edging is very simple.Make sure the feather boards are vertical and overlap them by an inch onto the previous board and fix them in place with either clipped head or full head nails.( a nail gun is the best tool for this) put up 6 boards and check for plumb. If using 6 inch wide boards cut yourself a block of wood 125mm in length you can then use this as a guide by placing it on the previous board so you don't have to guess or measure the inch overlap.
@@marccarter4469 mark! That’s so kind of you to get back to me on this. Cheers for making such useful, simple and straightforward videos. Really helpful. I’ve got 6 posts and 5 arris rail sections (10 ft wide) so I’ve got my work cut out. Have you ever made a video on this process? Thanks again Marc
@@mattavalon I'm a watcher of youtube and don't really post videos but I have a job next week putting up a feather edge fence so will record the fitting of the boards for you
You should just get away with it, there are hundreds of different species and brands I’d advise getting the right one for the conditions on your lawn !
You missed the bit where you start digging, then have to go hire or buy a breaker because of the mahoosive block of concrete someone poured in the mine-shaft they dug for the original post...
You don't need to put water into the concrete. Pour it in dry and make sure there is plenty of it on all 4 sides of the post spur. Shake it until it won't wiggle any more. You don't have to wait to connect it to the old post at that point. What you have shown is going to fail soon, because the amount of concrete on the side of the new post spur isn't enough to hold the spur up. It will crack off and the post will fall over the same way it did. Don't add water, as the concrete will absorb moisture over time from its surroundings and set up.
@@cutcrewltd The whole idea is that it doesn't need to set. The package of post setting concrete, with the small pebbles in it even says that you don't have to put water in it. Says that right on the package. You just wiggle it back and forth until it won't wiggle anymore and it's solid. Much more solid than when it's wet. The cement absorbs moisture from its surroundings over time. Doesn't matter how long it takes. It will eventually harden. It even has a better composition than mixing it wet and water will drain through it more easily and it won't hold water against any wood you might use with it so the wood is less likely to rot out. The concrete manufacturers have known this for years, yet most of the fence "experts" on the internet have no clue about it. Thanks for responding. Enjoy.
Them coach bolts are "Coach Screws" the length of 100 mm is way to short should be more like 150mm(6") in old money and the spur should go down 600mm (2'-0). As the post is broken(rotted off) below ground it's better to remove it and the concrete around it( hard work) then the concrete (postcrete) will get fully around the spur. Apart from that a great job.
What do you do if the post is concreted 3ft in the ground and sourranded by concrete. The fact theres no concrete around the post may be the reason it broke!!
Yeah, we have just done a whole load of these and spent half a day just removing concrete from where the spur was going. Certainly did not take us 10 minutes.
Use fence fix metal fkat bars you drive between the post and concrete about 500 to 600mm down and screw it about 600mm above, they require some bashing in!?!
Agreed...I had to remove a rotten wooden spur and original fence post. Even with a hired medium duty concrete breaker it took the best part of a day to remove the original concrete and get down deep enough to instal a new wooden post and concrete.spur! And I used 2x 20kg bags of postcrete!
I tried using brick bolster and 1” chisel without success then fitted an old centre punch in the end of a steel bar. I got the punch from a Jeep tool kit at the end of WW2, I might add I’m not in the first flush of youth and don’t have much energy.
Totally totally wrong, you need to dig at least 450 - 600mm deep hole that way you can bolt the repair spur to the fence post, then tip half a bag of postscreet into the hole, make sure the fence post is level and tip in roughly half a watering can of water, check level again then tip the rest of the postscreet in, then add more water. The time to do the repair, depends on soil types and the hardness of the concrete.
Try using that stupid auger in clay and flint soil and try repairing it like that when the existing post was concreted in and is it me or is that post on the p**s
I don’t want to be overly critical but the auger you used would hit the existing concrete if it was fitted properly in the 1st place. No wonder the fence blew over. Where was the existing concrete? Not good advertising for your business. If there was no concrete , it would be cheaper to replace the post than buying an auger. Get the post out and replace it for a longer fix 🤷🏻♂️
I know this video is well intentioned, but if you're going to dig down to the bottom of the post, Just take the fence apart and REPLACE the freaking post. Putting a concrete post in next to a rotten post, then attaching the post to the concrete Band-Aid post, is ridiculous.
As mentioned in the video; the fence wasn’t owned by us! We can’t just go replacing the fence! However this has now been replaced and the spur served its purpose!
You have done a good job of that, I used to be a fencer and bricklayer, I used to use primed angle iron to concrete in the ground with holes in it to screw it to the post, found it less intrusive and you hardly notice it.
Thanks for sharing, I've been doing this to our fencing, falling posts, for a couple of years now! So much easier and, hopefully, permanent. I do just use my cordless drill/ driver for the coachbolts and finish by spanner.. The post supplier recommended M10 bolts but M12 fit and so I use those for a bit more strength. Just wish you were local to me to do the job for me! Local fencing companies/ gardeners aren't interested in this fix!
Easy to watch and learn - nothing complicated. Feel after watching......even I could attempt a fence repair. 😅 Well edited and straight to the point. Really good and 👍 great advice.
Thank you this was a huge help! I've ordered the following so I can repair my fence: Concrete Repair Spurs, postcrete, Round Washers M10x50mm and Coach Screws - M10 x 150mm.
Well if you can fix that in ten minutes, you can do my posts! I found it takes about 2 hours total of fix a post, I dig down 2 and a half feet minimum breaking up the old concrete as I go, secure the concrete spur to the post, square up and concrete in the spur. That tool you had for making the hole is ok if you can get access to turn it perhaps by leaning the old post over. I have a 6 foot 6 inch high close boarded fence and so far have repaired about ten of the posts by installing concrete spurs. Some of these were adjacent to a concrete path and the only way to do those is to use a long chisel on a hammer drill. I'm not as young as you are but this example if fine if your faced with a shallow depth, short fence post and soft concrete. Corner posts are a different story where access is restricted and also old concrete with lumps of flint and other rubbish is not so easy.
Absolutely, the time it takes varies on a few things. Soil type, amount of stones/rubble in the ground and if you have the right tools. It took me ages to remove old concrete as I did it with a club hammer and 8 inch chisel by hand. Next time I'll hire an electric concrete breaker.
@@saulwest8254 I use an sds hammer drill on which you can stop the spindle rotating to use a chisel. I use a 600mm long chisel mounted in it to break up the concrete. I also use a long handled post spade to help break the concrete.
Great job well done Personally I pretty much fill the hole with water once the post is level then pour the postcrete in. Usually it still needs a top up after as water drains away a bit Oh and washers ..I've seen hex heads pulled through the holes so always use a stainless washer. That's not knocking you fella...more an observation and what I've picked up over thirty yrs of doing this.
Hi Jack laid a lawn last year and followed your tips and took really well but gave its first cut of the year and wear turf was thick its left it yellow patch I have fed it and you can see green on bottom of yellow grass is there any advise pls mate
I researched several ways to correct broken fence posts, from the full dig-out-concrete-and-replace to just setting a new post next to the broken one. Concrete fence spurs seemed like a real solution. Unfortunately, they don't seem to be available in the US. So I just made my own by creating a form out of 2"x4"s and adding concrete. Holes in sides with some Pex piping left the screw holes. To work around the concrete plug around the current post, I made an offset for the part above ground. Works like a champ! With that experience, let me share some here. Most folks don't have an auger; post-hole diggers do great just keep the hole tight. You shouldn't need to add concrete to a concrete spur particularly if it's taller: 60 cm below ground (and above if the rails allow it). If you do, strongly recommend mixing it fully in a bucket or wheelbarrow. Easier to pour and work. Ensure the post is plumb when you add the concrete. Add temporary props to hold it so while you work. Cheers!
Hope you enjoy the video people!
I am useless....but watching just this video has given me the confidence to tackle this exact same job on my fence thanks for this!
Thanks for taking the time to make the video, some of us DIY people appreciate these videos that need a cheap fix and have a small budget, as I note the negative comment crew are not quick to post videos themselves. Thanks
Great Video, the only thing I am unsure of is - How would you dig a hole through the existing post Crete that is already surrounding the broken post?
Yes this is the laborious bit not shown. You'll have the old concrete base which is like two foot deep and lots of brick and stones. That is the actual hardest job and takes hours
Just a little tip .water at bottom of hole , half bag of post Crete , mix a bit , then add other half of post Crete add water to top and give a bit more of a mix to postcrete .it helps to ensure all of post Crete is dampened.
God tip but also I wouldn't keep moving the post with all the post mix around it I would get it level first then add more of the post mix
You cannot keep the Crete from harding.
Postcrete is absolute magic stuff!! Had to do a fair bit of fence replacement a little while back (panels and posts utterly beyond hope) and decided to try a cheap petrol powered auger. It was surprisingly not rubbish for the price.
Those spurs are too cool, never seen them here in the states. I wonder if they even sell them 🤔Great job 👍
Well that sounds like a business opportunity!
Thanks. Very straight forward and clear step by step guide.
Thank you!
@@cutcrewltd One of my fence panels fell down last week because one of the adjacent seven foot posts completely worked it’s way loose (caused by the recent storms) and is now leaning over. I think the main culprit was a very short concrete spur, installed by the fencing contractor a few years ago. I’ve now bought a four foot spur. He also put the posts ten feet apart, which in my estimation was too wide, after having read on line that fencing posts should be six to eight feet apart. Thanks again.
The best way of putting a concrete spur onto a wooden post is to dig down 1.5 ft and place the concrete spur into the hole then bolt it onto the wooden post by using 6" bolts and washers. Then pour water into the hole and add in the post crete mixing as you add. Then using a spirit level, level the spur, add more water if needed mixing well until the post is firmly in place.
GK I must have missed your professional video: pls provide your link
This method works well for mending posts. However, from my experience, 1/3 of the entire length of the post will be buried in concrete underground. Mine was surrounded by about 180kg of concrete. Furthermore, the post will be leaning because it has snapped at ground level (due to various reasons.) This makes the bugger almost impossible to mend this close to the ground in this way. Or, maybe whoever did our fence row simply liked pouring concrete but didn't add rainwater or runoff into consideration.
Awesome!… Thanks, from Ajax,Ontario, Canada!
Everyone has their own opinion on how to do things, and no one is perfect! Done many of these over many years, and never had a complaint, must be doing it right then i guess!
I've just watched a similar repair on YT , where long steel flat rods were buried in concrete and screwed, on front and side of post, same effect, a bit quicker, and less visible.
Thanks Jack my mums fence is quite big and old and needs replacing but I like your technique so cheers
"That's nicely mixed now, getting there". What a bodge.
This video helped me plan how to repair my fence post. If I had not seen this, I probably would have paid thousands to get a new fence put in because I didn't know any better. Get a life Gary, and maybe you'll learn to relax a little...
Great video looking forward to seeing your other stuff, I’m sure it will come in handy this year!
Certainly wouldn’t be happy with the length of those coach screws, at 100mm you would have less than an inch into the timber that could easily pull out. I would use M12 150mm with a decent pilot hole then especially with that impact you would get an excellent fixing.
As you say it’s a cheap quick fix and the original concrete was certainly spared but I wouldn’t be too concerned as the new postmix should adhere to it and make a larger mass as a whole.
I assume the disconnected aris rail at the other end of that fence section was fixed too. Good little video for the DIYer
Spot on with those M12 150mm , exactly what I used for mine 👍🏻
Good of you to sort it out especially as it is not your fence AND they still chose to show their neighbour the worst side!
Without good neighbours what is life ?!
would love to see a video on fixing a sunken garden paving slab
Nice informative video. If you come across a job to do a fence on top of a brick wall or attaching fence posts to brick wall that would be lovely. Best wishes!
Hey Jack Thanks for the informative video. You just saved me time and money so I appreciate The wind snaps at least one my post each season … any advice?
Well done Jack very informative have liked and subscribed.
Excellent cheap fix….thank you !
Great video, very useful tips. Good luck with your business.
Good video, need to do this job myself and this has been a great help 👍
Good luck Ian!
@@cutcrewltd Thanks, biggest worry is digging the hole as the wooden post has already been replaced twice in the last 4 years. The area is subject to high wind and I need a stronger, more permanent solution. Thanks again for the video 👍
Good stuff. Less preamble at the start of videos and sharper editing will help your channel immensely. Keep up the good work and the very best for the future.
Thanks silver!
How did you get the concrete base out? The auger is good for digging the earth but can't cut the concrete. That is always the hard - removing the concrete base.
I was very lucky that a hammer and chisel worked, failing that an electric breaker!
Very useful. My personal preference is not to have background music - it gets in the way of the message.
Was the original wooden fence post not concreted into the ground then, because I cant see how youd make a hole with that auger thing that close to the wooden post if it was concreted in. Surely the original concrete would be at least 150mm plus around the post?
Is your fence bar concrete?
I see you used an auger to dig hole. However, if the old concrete is jutting out from the edge of the old post hasn't it to be broken out to enable a flush fit for the spur up against the post and to true it? I see you did not show that. An auger won't dig through the old post crete will it? For some diy types that would be the real ball ache in this repair.
Great video fella! Spent a lot of my younger years around Northamptonshire! Great channel! I’d like to see an arris rail fence install as I need to do mine. The posts are rotten and need to learn how to do the feather edge. Cheers
matt feather edging is very simple.Make sure the feather boards are vertical and overlap them by an inch onto the previous board and fix them in place with either clipped head or full head nails.( a nail gun is the best tool for this) put up 6 boards and check for plumb. If using 6 inch wide boards cut yourself a block of wood 125mm in length you can then use this as a guide by placing it on the previous board so you don't have to guess or measure the inch overlap.
@@marccarter4469 mark! That’s so kind of you to get back to me on this. Cheers for making such useful, simple and straightforward videos. Really helpful. I’ve got 6 posts and 5 arris rail sections (10 ft wide) so I’ve got my work cut out. Have you ever made a video on this process? Thanks again Marc
@@mattavalon I'm a watcher of youtube and don't really post videos but I have a job next week putting up a feather edge fence so will record the fitting of the boards for you
@@marccarter4469 that’s brilliant Marc, got confused who posted the video but all good. Cheers again
A collar around the cement post would keep the added cement tidy.
Good job
Well done. Job make it look easy thanks
Question: is it ok to lay grass seeds now? and would you recommend a certain brand or do they all do the job🤷
You should just get away with it, there are hundreds of different species and brands I’d advise getting the right one for the conditions on your lawn !
Very helpful. Thanks
Was wondering what your thoughts are on electric scarifiers as my front lawn is 80% moss what’s your tips to turn this around?
Hi Jack
Moss killer, wait two weeks, scarify then seed!
@@cutcrewltd cheers will give it a go any brands recommended?
You missed the bit where you start digging, then have to go hire or buy a breaker because of the mahoosive block of concrete someone poured in the mine-shaft they dug for the original post...
Hey, thanks for that. Good one.
Top tip
Thankyou how to fix a gate for a fence
What an eyesore!
I’d agree! It’s a good solution for a temporary measure! Plus ours are hidden by hedging
You don't need to put water into the concrete. Pour
it in dry and make sure there is plenty of it on all
4 sides of the post spur. Shake it until it won't wiggle
any more. You don't have to wait to connect it to the
old post at that point. What you have shown is going
to fail soon, because the amount of concrete on the
side of the new post spur isn't enough to hold the
spur up. It will crack off and the post will fall over the
same way it did. Don't add water, as the concrete will
absorb moisture over time from its surroundings and
set up.
We shall give that a go!
Not sure it would set fast in summer!
@@cutcrewltd The whole idea is that
it doesn't need to set. The package of post setting
concrete, with the small pebbles in it even says
that you don't have to put water in it. Says that
right on the package. You just wiggle it back and
forth until it won't wiggle anymore and it's solid.
Much more solid than when it's wet.
The cement absorbs moisture from its surroundings
over time. Doesn't matter how long it takes. It will
eventually harden. It even has a better composition
than mixing it wet and water will drain through it
more easily and it won't hold water against any
wood you might use with it so the wood is less
likely to rot out. The concrete manufacturers
have known this for years, yet most of the fence
"experts" on the internet have no clue about it.
Thanks for responding. Enjoy.
Them coach bolts are "Coach Screws" the length of 100 mm is way to short should be more like 150mm(6") in old money and the spur should go down 600mm (2'-0).
As the post is broken(rotted off) below ground it's better to remove it and the concrete around it( hard work) then the concrete (postcrete) will get fully around the spur. Apart from that a great job.
Hi how much would your fee ( labour + materials) be for repairing my fence at South Croydon in a similar manner?
I have done that I usually takes me half an afternoon to dig the hole for the concrete post. Not 10 minutes.
What do you do if the post is concreted 3ft in the ground and sourranded by concrete. The fact theres no concrete around the post may be the reason it broke!!
You get the breaker out 🥹
Am I the only person to have noticed that the fence was still falling away at the next post?
You need to go two foot deep and often you'll get the old concrete block that needs removing.
The slop on the spur is facing the wrong way😮😮😮
Should have removed the bottom of the broken post ..... as it rots it leaves a void ..... then the spur post moves
It would take a lot longer than 10 mins as you need to remove old concrete and as for cheap those posts are not cheap
If you don’t hit concrete I’d be worried especially the way new builds are done these days.
Yeah, we have just done a whole load of these and spent half a day just removing concrete from where the spur was going. Certainly did not take us 10 minutes.
Use fence fix metal fkat bars you drive between the post and concrete about 500 to 600mm down and screw it about 600mm above, they require some bashing in!?!
The hardest part I found was breaking the old concrete which you do not show!
Agreed...I had to remove a rotten wooden spur and original fence post. Even with a hired medium duty concrete breaker it took the best part of a day to remove the original concrete and get down deep enough to instal a new wooden post and concrete.spur! And I used 2x 20kg bags of postcrete!
I tried using brick bolster and 1” chisel without success then fitted an old centre punch in the end of a steel bar. I got the punch from a Jeep tool kit at the end of WW2, I might add I’m not in the first flush of youth and don’t have much energy.
Great video on how NOT to fix a fence probably.
I’d totally agree, but sometimes people need a cheap temporary solution!
There’s many ways to skin a cat
Totally totally wrong, you need to dig at least 450 - 600mm deep hole that way you can bolt the repair spur to the fence post, then tip half a bag of postscreet into the hole, make sure the fence post is level and tip in roughly half a watering can of water, check level again then tip the rest of the postscreet in, then add more water. The time to do the repair, depends on soil types and the hardness of the concrete.
Wrong part is using a spur full stop, just replace the post. It's a bodge and looks terrible.
Maybe a description of all the tools and parts used in your summary would be great rather than having to go through the video to see what you used.
Ditch the arbour for post hole diggers
300mm 😳
I think it would have been more aesthetic to have used a wooden post instead of a concrete one which doesn't match the fence.
It’s now hidden by the hedge and still standing!
eerrmmm looks like you could do with a new bubble in your spirit level thanks anyway
Good content, but what about the rest of the post that is in the ground, once that rots away you'll be left a void!!!!
Great question! Most the time when you dig your spur out you can see it and remove dead wood
@@cutcrewltd That would be the best practice, but you didn't explain that in your video.
I wish it’d watched your video a week ago
Easier to put a repair stake in damaged post and cheaper u know meta post spike
Good video, thank you. But, why the mind-bending epileptic fit inducing repetitive music? It really isn't needed.
at the end as he kicked it the post moved real naff
The new post has not fixed with cement at the old post side, the old post will pull it fall 😅😅
It’s still straight…
"Back fill it with mud".... lol, it's dry, it's soil, it's mud when it's wet as fuck!
Try using that stupid auger in clay and flint soil and try repairing it like that when the existing post was concreted in and is it me or is that post on the p**s
I don’t want to be overly critical but the auger you used would hit the existing concrete if it was fitted properly in the 1st place. No wonder the fence blew over. Where was the existing concrete?
Not good advertising for your business. If there was no concrete , it would be cheaper to replace the post than buying an auger. Get the post out and replace it for a longer fix 🤷🏻♂️
We didn’t install the first fence it’s the original since the house was built ! So don’t see why it affects business :)
I know this video is well intentioned, but if you're going to dig down to the bottom of the post, Just take the fence apart and REPLACE the freaking post. Putting a concrete post in next to a rotten post, then attaching the post to the concrete Band-Aid post, is ridiculous.
As mentioned in the video; the fence wasn’t owned by us! We can’t just go replacing the fence!
However this has now been replaced and the spur served its purpose!
300 mm = 30 cm = 1 foot. Not a metre.
I would of dug up that bloody plant thats in the way mate.
Are you married 😂😂
Not in 1im
You’re awfully rough with the plants.
I bet that fell down the day
Still up and going strong !!!
How to fix a fence in 10 minutes, with a video length of 13 minutes!😅
You have done a good job of that, I used to be a fencer and bricklayer, I used to use primed angle iron to concrete in the ground with holes in it to screw it to the post, found it less intrusive and you hardly notice it.
Wtf,an ugly concrete post,just remove the old post and put a new one in,,the whole line is knackered !!!!Billy the bodger
What a load of bull ….the repair spur is no where deep enough ….I’m howling with laughter
Your right spur no where deep enough would of been just the same as lying it on top of soil lmao or hammering it in the soil😊
Thanks for sharing, I've been doing this to our fencing, falling posts, for a couple of years now! So much easier and, hopefully, permanent. I do just use my cordless drill/ driver for the coachbolts and finish by spanner.. The post supplier recommended M10 bolts but M12 fit and so I use those for a bit more strength.
Just wish you were local to me to do the job for me! Local fencing companies/ gardeners aren't interested in this fix!
Better to replace the post. Unfortunately there is little or no postcrete behind the concrete support
Easy to watch and learn - nothing complicated. Feel after watching......even I could attempt a fence repair. 😅
Well edited and straight to the point.
Really good and 👍 great advice.
Thank you!!
And I’m so glad you gave it a go!
I don't know about being under 10 minutes, but I like the content.
😅it would have been just at easy to replace the post. And would look much nicer.
Thank you this was a huge help! I've ordered the following so I can repair my fence: Concrete Repair Spurs, postcrete, Round Washers M10x50mm and Coach Screws - M10 x 150mm.
Nice guy, but the post seems at an alarming angle?
Well if you can fix that in ten minutes, you can do my posts!
I found it takes about 2 hours total of fix a post, I dig down 2 and a half feet minimum breaking up the old concrete as I go, secure the concrete spur to the post, square up and concrete in the spur.
That tool you had for making the hole is ok if you can get access to turn it perhaps by leaning the old post over. I have a 6 foot 6 inch high close boarded fence and so far have repaired about ten of the posts by installing concrete spurs. Some of these were adjacent to a concrete path and the only way to do those is to use a long chisel on a hammer drill. I'm not as young as you are but this example if fine if your faced with a shallow depth, short fence post and soft concrete. Corner posts are a different story where access is restricted and also old concrete with lumps of flint and other rubbish is not so easy.
Absolutely, the time it takes varies on a few things. Soil type, amount of stones/rubble in the ground and if you have the right tools. It took me ages to remove old concrete as I did it with a club hammer and 8 inch chisel by hand. Next time I'll hire an electric concrete breaker.
@@saulwest8254 I use an sds hammer drill on which you can stop the spindle rotating to use a chisel. I use a 600mm long chisel mounted in it to break up the concrete. I also use a long handled post spade to help break the concrete.
I was attracted by the under 10 minutes then found out it would easily take me 10 plus hours 😸
The correct description is, coach SCREWS not coach bolts.
Cheers Dave!
Nicely done. When the laurel hedge grows in you will not see the repair. Lovely.
Great job well done
Personally I pretty much fill the hole with water once the post is level then pour the postcrete in. Usually it still needs a top up after as water drains away a bit
Oh and washers ..I've seen hex heads pulled through the holes so always use a stainless washer.
That's not knocking you fella...more an observation and what I've picked up over thirty yrs of doing this.
Hi Jack laid a lawn last year and followed your tips and took really well but gave its first cut of the year and wear turf was thick its left it yellow patch I have fed it and you can see green on bottom of yellow grass is there any advise pls mate
Thank you. Just suggestion if you could reduce the music volume in background that would be helpful
Just another little tip mate, a post is plumb not level, keep up the good work
Now I know your in MK I’d have got you to do my broken fence. Great vid cheers
Thanks, very informative for someone who had no idea how to fix broken fence or items needed!! Great
put some brown paint on that fence spur
I researched several ways to correct broken fence posts, from the full dig-out-concrete-and-replace to just setting a new post next to the broken one. Concrete fence spurs seemed like a real solution. Unfortunately, they don't seem to be available in the US. So I just made my own by creating a form out of 2"x4"s and adding concrete. Holes in sides with some Pex piping left the screw holes. To work around the concrete plug around the current post, I made an offset for the part above ground. Works like a champ!
With that experience, let me share some here. Most folks don't have an auger; post-hole diggers do great just keep the hole tight. You shouldn't need to add concrete to a concrete spur particularly if it's taller: 60 cm below ground (and above if the rails allow it). If you do, strongly recommend mixing it fully in a bucket or wheelbarrow. Easier to pour and work. Ensure the post is plumb when you add the concrete. Add temporary props to hold it so while you work.
Cheers!