[Edit 2, So Gamers Nexus just did a piece about radiator mounts, so now suddenly everyone's a radiator expert over night... The top of the radiator is higher than the pump, that's where the air will gather. I think GN are right, and hoses-low is good practise, and something that I'm going to take into account going forward, but I've got several AIOs that are 4+ years old and going strong. Hoses-high isn't a death-knell. I could see this being an issue on a bottom-mount rad though, as per their example. But that's a worst-case example that almost no one ever does.] [Edit, Supplemental info - Top mount was not an option because it wouldn't clear the RAM. Yea it's dumb, corsair case, ram and cooler, and you can't top mount.] Also Bring on the hate for my devious reverse-airflow plan. I'm ready.
:D before you mentioned top intake i was thinking top intake. nothing wrong with it. accidentally did back intake with my AMD 3700x and box cooler and turns out that relay drops temps, had mixed feelings after i flipped the fan to back out-take. (did replace the cooler) have PSU as out-take thanks to your videos!
I think the reverse airflow implementation was actually very smart. As you said, it really doesn't matter what direction the air flows as long as heat is properly exhausted out of the case. Your re-cabling job was brilliant. You all but made the cables disappear. One always has to work with the constraints of the case design and your approach here was masterful. Bravo.
I did use your videos to perform a massive housekeeping of my current rig. Cable porn, fan orientation, flipped the power supply so it did not hoover my floor, Bios update and even installed an M2 and mirrored my current HDD to it. Your channel continuously provides above grade content for the amateur computer builder. My system wend from Win7 to Win 10 and has seen a massive upgrade in performance. Keep up the good work, and supporting the rite to repair.
You've given me much to think about. Old mechanic that I am, I have used clear packing tape to "close" unused fan openings and get the air flow pattern that I want. Won't pass the eagle-eyed inspection, but then there isn't any such for me.
I closed off the bottom of my case with sheets of printer paper that I cut to size and taped to the dust filter. It's more or less invisible from the outside. And yes, I mounted my PSU fan side up, on direct inspiration from Adam.
You're a bad / good influence, grin. You've motivated me to go clean up my old test-bed system and it is now a lot cleaner, much neater on the cable routing, and the air flow is sorted. Nothing fancy inside, just working good and looking like I cared. All the best to you and yours.
also adam with the custom braided cables instead of clipping off the excess combs you could have combed it to the 8 pin cables to so it would have a nice flush finish to it with no gaps
i literally bought this case not that long ago i saw the original build on your channel and it is one of the easiest cases i've had to build in i owned a Deep cool tesseract before this though i've built in many cases including the NZXT H500i and i find it very similar it's nice and clean very happy with i've now got an i7 6700k with an RX 480 8GB and 16GB GB corsair LPX in it and the temps are phenomonal it's overclocked to 4.5 GHZ the ram with the overclock is at 2990MHZ furthest it would go overclocked love this system planning on upgrading to an AMD 3900X with either a 2080TI or a 2080 super and 32GB of trident Z royal Ram it's my ideal pc dream to own this build.
Hi Adam! Good to see you are still with us 👀👍I was surprised given the power unit is modular that the customer opted for cable 'extensions' as I am sure they could have got modular plug in cables for that power unit. So sympathies re that situation. Also there are 'slim' versions of fans that could lie relatively flat against the case taking up less space. But of course time is a factor re obtaining those and et although that place does deliver next day 😎but as said in this 'case' hmm you have to go with the flow .. 🤔😊 Stay safe ! Gotta hit that thumbs up button ✔😎👍
Thanks for the video! I had the the problem you mentioned at 9:24 with my Cooler Master Hyper212 LED. I had to hold the standoff with pliers while unscrewing it. And even tho I used 1 million zipties in my main build, some areas still look like a rats nest, and some are OK. And when I upgraded my ASRock board to an asus one recently, the USB 3 headers socket (just the plastic, not the pins) came off with the connector of my icue 220t XD I love your content and I apologize for my bad English XD
adam it's really nice seeing others with as much knowledge as i have in repairing computers. unlike other companies that turn on the computer and say its dead. no troubleshooting whatsoever literally only takes a rough hour of troubleshooting to come to a decision on what the problem is
You can do reverse air flow, it is indeed better, than how it was made before. However, just to point out, there is slight difference of which direction you do it. Hot air tend to go up, that's why usually the direction of the air flow is not only from the front to the back, but more important, it is going from the bottom to the top. In case of going from the top to the bottom, the hot air meets the cold air comming from the top resulting in tutbulences which can slightly decrease the cooling effect, if your front fans are not strong enough. Furthermore, standing upright and soacking the air on the top, you'll probably get the case dusty on the top faster. This is just to point out the disadvantages, however, as I told, blowing from the top rear to the bottom front is still better, than just to blow out on all sides. Actually, you also could place the front white cooler to the top completely, just as another option.
I have exactly the same cooler (all white Platinum H100i SE) ..it is a replacement as part of the faulty batch that was recalled by Corsair last year...(worth checking if the serial number begins with "1852"...mine did) long story (reported it on my channel) but the service wasn't great so they they ended up giving me a new one AND an additional free new one (it's still wrapped on my shelf) so good result....and it's been great since then. The clamps on the pipes at the pump head & rad on the one in this vid are hexagonal...mine are circular...didnt make a note of what the one I sent back was but this looks from a different run because of that so its likely its fine. Anyway I had the same prob with the fans re the RGB....mine is at eye level on my desk and the LL fans although looking great from the front have no sideways 'window' for the RGB so were wasted. So I have just fitted some new (again done a vid) Alpenfohn fans from Overclockers (one of only a few places that sell them)....look great from the side...have slightly higher static pressure (so good for rads) than the high speeed LL's (there are 2 types..high and low rpm) and are well made and slightly quiter....I bought the 3 fan set with hub and remote control ...much cheaper than the Corsair's. This has freed up the LL's for a build where I can see the front of them in all their glory. Re radiator mounting....yes I haven't a clue where is best....I am a retired gas engineer (for 42years man and boy :) ) and have fitted hundreds of radiators and pumps in houses with pumps upstairs and downstairs but can't comment on a sealed system like on a PC (my Corsair is at the top of my Lian Li Dynamic case) Great vid as usual...very pleasant way to kill a few mins watching them :)
LMAO I had to comment. My late grandmother decades ago got in line for the newest thing a BRASS MAILBOX. For years it was the tin one at the end of the road, then the funky wood one with the bird handle then she got a spiffy brand new Brass box and her biggest love of that box was that it was such a pretty shade of blue on the front....
I'm a new subscriber and I've been binge watching to catch up over the last few days. I must say I like the straight forward and sensible style you have . I started watching after having some issues with the memory on my X99 system. I managed to fix the problem after re-seating all 4 dimms . Not sure what caused the problem but it went away. As far as this build goes If people wanna hate on the reversed air flow then so be it , it's the customer's system and you followed their request. I'm a little curious as to why the top mount rad wouldn't work as this case looked like it had off-set rad mounts in the top. But as you said the rig had some tall memory sticks in it. I guess we will see how this rig goes at keeping dust out of it. Cheers!
would have been great if you did a performance benchmark and thermal check so you have a benchmark so you can test that your tweaked rebuild has resulted in better cooling
This would've been cool to do, but sadly I didn't have the time on this one, as it was a same-day rush job. It's been running great since though, I did have to do a follow up due to a bad mount with the water cooler - for some reason this one's fussy. But the case airflow has been working just fine.
The USB header cable for the Bluetooth is, as I understand it, such that Bluetooth keyboards/mice work in the UEFI/BIOS, without the extra expense of a PCIe switch for USB through the slot.
Back to front is actually something im considering. I have a front mounted radiator, and my GPU is blowing air out the back/front, which causes my front fans to just blow the hot air from the GPU back. I then have issues with higher GPU temps. But if i change my airflow from back to front, the back fan will just suck all the hot exhaust air from the GPU back in. And it will also make the front fans suck the 60+ C hot air directly in to the radiator.
It's better with the reverse-airflow, because the black case fans don't have enough static pressure to blow through the radiator. Also it's recommended to check the cooler standoffs if they have the little plastic washer under them before ripping some traces on the motherboard. Newer mobos usually don't have any traces near the holes, but i've seen some with traces right next to the holes.
Very nice, I really admire your patience and attention to detail. When I finish building my own PCs I am always too keen to see if everything is working OK to worry about cable management, but it does look nice...
I have the same case the only issue is that the mesh at front panel is finer than top one so in my eyes better flowing other way. This video came at a good time as I noticed my wiring is a mess although I did my best at the time.
I use dual 280 aio's, one for cpu and one for gpu, both in exhaust. All hot air in exhausted, not blown into the case. Rear and bottom fans are intake. I achieve very low temps. My 1080ti under full load can raise the water temp to 55c while the pc remains less that 5c over ambient, keeping vrm's nice and cool. Never blow hot air into your pc if you can avoid it. The standard front mount rad with intake blowing onto you video card and MB is and has always been a bad idea. Also, keep you radiator horizontal or if vertically mounted, hoses down. This can prevent air going to and being trapped in the pump, which will kill it.
I've got top intake with bottom exhaust. I've done several reverse airflow cases too. It's doesn't matter. In fact in one case it gave me slightly lower temps compared to regular direction. 2-3' C.
The fan on my Corsair CX750M PSU eventually did die after about 6 years, but i was able to replace it with a Fractal Design silent fan and now it is quieter than before.
If you start by connecting the extension to the motherboard, then pushing through the case holes, it is easier to get the finish look. At least that has been my experience.
I wish that on AiO Water coolers, inside the tubes were actually a wire hidden so at the radiator side, where we rout the fan wires would be where all the plugs would come out and plug on the pump. Very stealth it would be.
From that place you can buy magnetic dust filters OR filters that fit between the case and the fan though obviously you have to remove the fan to thoroughly clean the filter et I've used the magnetics before and they're not that expensive though hmm mine were black.. wonder if they do them in white.. 🤔
I have a box fan running near me while gaming and find that leaving the side off , it cools better than several fans/closed. I find the only thing you need is good video card cooling design and decent CPU cooler.
The other issue with orienting the radiator so that the hoses are at the bottom is that then the hoses will cover the RAM, which given that it's expensive RGB RAM it's really not an option. I think like you say, the pump is lower than the radiator so everything else after that is nitpicking. Every aesthetical choice has a trade off, this one is minimal.
The hoses tend to get in the way of _something_ however you mount it, so I'm sure there's a nice way to arrange them with the rad ports at the bottom - just not something I've looked into yet. I'll be checking it out though - this is going to be a meta change because regardless of if it matters or not, I don't want every video I make from here on out to be a wall of "yOu mOuNtEd tHe rAd UpSIdE dOWn" comments.
Just came here after watching a Gamers Nexus video pointing out how the radiator should never be mounted like this with the pipes at the top as it causes air to get stuck at the inlet/outlet ports, potentially even pulled into the pump making it noisy at best, or wear it out prematurely at worst.
I've seen Steves vid too, but this is one of the few times you can get away with it, the pump is 4 inches lower than the head of the rad so air should stay up there, but to prime this just tilt the PC on its back and power it on , this will place the pump lower than the whole rad and it will prime perfectly. All that said, this AIO does fit this case with the hoses at the preferable bottom position (my son has one setup that way) but without a GPU support I wouldn't want the hoses pushing down on the card end.
The radiator is mounted the wrong way. The tubing should be in the bottom of the rad or the rad has to be mounted at the top of the case, which is the best solution. There was just recently a video from gamers nexsus about this.
Love your videos, only found your channel a month ago but have backwatched most of your vids... Love the repair pcs ones, as I run a repair business too
Really enjoying your content, please keep up the great work and please continue to blast away. One thing which could have been done was to get cable replacements instead of e tensions, I use the Corsair premium individual sleeved psu cable starter kit, which is about £49.
When anyone other than me builds a computer: "Yea there's like 5 cables." When I build a computer: "Man why are there like 50 cables in my computer wth is this? There's no way this cable can bend like that." Literally just rebuilt my computer in a new case designed around not burning your hand when you touch the side panel after playing a game. On a side note my case advertises being able to put 2 120mm fans on the bottom to suck air in just above the powersupply and the USB 3.0 wire is so stiff you literally have to choose between having USB 3.0 and 1 fan or no USB 3.0 and 2 fans... I chose 1 fan.
@AdamantIT I have a question if you see this then grate please reply. I'm going to build a pc but I'm wondering if I can mount the fans on the front of the cooler so the fans are facing me with rgb so the side without the 2 tubes?
Yes you can, this is the best way to do it on an airflow case. If you have a glass-fronted case, make sure the fans are on the inside of the front panel, so there's an airgap between them and the glass, otherwise they won't get any airflow.
@@Adamant_IT Hi, thank you soo much. If you have spare time could maby tell me if this is a good a case at all for airflow and other things? It's on the Currys web here is the item name : CORSAIR Crystal Series 570X RGB Mid-Tower ATX PC Case. Thanks,
for me, id buy replacement braided cables with nice combs for the modular power supply's there only a few quid extra especially if your outlaying all that money on a new pc and extensions and cablemod are really good at what they do.
The m3 screws with the washers are the correct screws and come with the radiator. What you mistake as course is actually threads for the m3 screws. The original screws are the same thread as the longer screws the fans are screwed in with which you could have compared before you ruined the original threads.
Would moving the rad and corsair fans to top exhaust and the 2 other fans to front intake make for better airflow? Curious because I'm interested in using an aio in the future
I use that screwdriver but from a different vendor, same thing but its become my go to driver when working on PC, Laptops and general electronics, comes with a good assortment of tips as well. USB rechargeable from a PC USB port too.
How has yours held up? I've had someone predict that mine would lose all its torque in a short lifespan... but if that doesn't come to pass, I've so far been pretty impressed.
@@Adamant_IT I am not using it to put screws into wood or anything but for PCs and Laptops, no issues. probably wouldn't want any more torque on them screws anyways. like you said, monkey tight, not gorilla tight... lol.
I think I'm more partial to doing all of the pretty work with the motherboard side first, and then inserting and connecting the power supply last. That way the cable can't be too long on the pretty side. I guess everyone has their preferences. 🤷🏻♂️
I have no problem with the reverse air flow but that radiator install should be fixed its probably noisier then intended. It should be flipped hoses to the bottom of the case and same with the pump.
Just wondering, wouldn't the reverse airflow config pull residual heat generated from the VRMs / CPU and especially heat from the GPU into the radiator? That would then introduce heat back into the liquid which would then flow back into the pump. At least, that what I think. 🤷
This is giving me ideas to turn my top fans around, have them as intake's to blow down on the CPU, flip the rear fan around, CPU fan to the rear of the cooler and the 3 front fans to exhaust fans. But leave the 3 PSU fans the same, yeah I have 10 RGB fans in my rig, RGB 24 pin extension and RGB on the GPU.
I have exact build just like this. My problem are the MB standoffs, somehow the middle standoff just wont align i try many times snugging the back io until my MB jammed shut because some of the standoffs pins get caught in the screwhole, i try hard to pull off my MB, until i realize im screwed when i Saw some scratches and exposed coppper traces on the back PCB around the middle screwhole. 😂😂😂
Not a bad job, but not a sterling advertisement for your services. 1. Take a photo before you start so you know what goes where. Particularly SATA cables. It also helps you show the customer the before and after. 2. Don't plug anything into x16 slots other than the top one without confirming that doing so won't affect the performance of the top slot and NVME drives. You just halved the PCI Express bandwidth going to the GPU, changing the top slot from a x16 slot to a x8 slot. 3. Since the two top fans are adjacent, consider rotating them so the wires are together. Doing this with the RGB fans could produce interesting results. :) 4. Use the second 3.5" drive bay for cable storage. 5. The GPU cables would have been better off coming out the grommet physically below the GPU. 6. The problem with the reverse airflow is that all the noise comes out the front, straight at the customer if it's sitting on their desk. 7. Put grilles on the top fans to prevent damage to the AIO tubes. You can even get LED grilles. Grilles on fans prevent accidental ouches too. Really you should have replaced the black fans with white ones - white RGB ones would have been even better - but I think you said that the customer was unwilling to pay. And you could have taken the time to remove the unused blanking plates and replace them with ones you'd previously spraypainted white. If the customer were willing you could also do that with the plates of the GPU and WiFi cards if they're detachable. Obviously that would take time.
ok, the air intake at the back and top with no dust screens is triggering me, not gonna lie. (is there a screen for the top I didn't see?) and the exhaust at the front, of course, has a dust screen... to keep the dust that's coming in from the back and top IN the case!! Triggered!! I did like this video though, a lot of useful stuff going on here. I really like this channel because he is dealing with a customer and customer pc's, not talking about his own personal builds. this is more of a real world situation. plus I really like his troubleshooting videos, super interesting watching someone else's process. keep up with !the great content!
Adam, a bit off topic but can you do a video explaining everything you need to know but we're afraid to ask about RGB systems. I am a retired computer engineer and have been building PCs since 1995. But, even I was caught out by a schoolboy error when faced with lighting up my latest PC. I have an Asus b450 mb and Ryzen 7 fitted with stock cooler that has RGB technology built in. So to compliment that, I bought a cooler master RGB case fan. It wasn't cheap at £20 and it seemed to have the right connections (4 pin connector for power an what I thought was a 4 pin connector for the LEDs). A quick check of my mobo and yes I had an aura 4 pin header, so I ordered the fan. When it came, I discovered the RGB system was not compatable. My mobo's 4 pin aura header is 12v, r, g, b grounds pins and the fan had a 4 pin connector 5v, blank, ground, TDM pins. All is not lost because I have ordered a converter that is powered by a sata cable and converts the aura 12 volt system to the 5 volt TDM system. So, my lesson is that it cost me a total of £40 and would have been more if not for Amazon prime just to add 1 pretty fan to my case.
Would you consider it risky to use an AIO water cooler in a PC? Amazon reviews seem to show a lot of leakage after a short time with them, and I don't want to risk ruining a Ryzen 3600 and a 2060. I've seen the water coolers for cooling projectors lasting at least 10 years without issue, could I expect this from one of those PC ones?
It's hard to give a straight answer with this... I've never seen a big fail with one of these. Only see one fail full stop, and that was a duff pump, not a leak. I've heard from someone who had a leak, so it can happen, but it's not common enough to concern me. I _think_ the warranty covers damage to other components.
Wondering if anyone knows why my pc is randomly shutting off when I try to load CS:GO? It's a core 2 duo e7600, 700w OCZ psu, gtx 560ti and all the updates are the most recent
I just thought, if you have 14 or 16 wires coming to the GPU, you could use 16 wire cable combs. That would tidy up the curves and align the 2 separate stacks.
The airflow issue is for that poor GPU, which usually only gets about half a fan's worth of fresh air anyway. Now, it gets none, except I'm sure that mostly decorative backplate is nice and cool. This is why the form over function cases and products fail. The idea is to make the stuff on the screen pretty, and IF you can also do it for the stuff inside the case after that, all the better. But if you can't do it without hurting performance, then just stick to what performs best.
Thanks Graham. I learn a lot by making mistakes or being warned of possible traps. Great stuff and very helpful to add to my background knowledge. Two things: I'm about a year away from saving up the pennies for (probably) a good unclocked Intel build with good graphics. The accent will be on showing movies on monitor or HDMI extension. - probably 4k, sound editing and long life >7 years in a dusty, warm environment. I've never used water cooling before and I am worried about the results of 'if it leaks'. How do you guys avoid leaking/long life etc in the build? I will be concerned with it being as quiet a poss and running cool. I am only concerned with one game 'Elite Dangererous'. 12 months to go.....
Pump is in the head not the rad on the vast majority of AIOs. And yea, there's merit in having the hoses at the bottom - I need to do test runs with it myself to see how routing works out. GN's new video does show good testing, but they were also showing a very extreme example. The pump doesn't sit higher than the top of the rad in most setups.
That air coming in the back will bring in dust and what ever else that is circulating in the computer room. It will mean more maintenance to keep it clean..
Fabulous job as always, I just would like to ask you about your thermal paste application. Everyone under the sun recommends the famous pea-sized droplet, but you do an X-marks-the-spot. Why?
Please for give the facebook link, but this video demonstrates it well: facebook.com/601457763336866/posts/1705766756239289/ A real CPU cooler will have more clamping force than this, so this is an exaggeration, but it shows how X will almost certainly assure better coverage than pea-dot. The video also shows that it most likely won't matter in the majority of cases, but X seems to be a very safe option.
Moved over my new ryzen stuff over to a MSI Mag Forge 100M case, it's compact but I fitted everything in. Just don't look at the back lol I did my best but the area for the PSU and HDD caddy isn't great so a bit tight
so the rad was meant to go to the top of the case, but it just didn't fit there (at least it looks that way) and it was put on the front, and this caused strange air circulation problem, i think this pc case is not fully compatible with this cooler or ram is too tall :)
Nice tidy build you have there. I do not build for anyone else only myself and I prefer to use non modular PSU's and never any extensions as to me it adds another failure point.
I don't know the specs for the fans, but have you though about exchanging them? I mean putting the black on the rad and whites with rgb on the top. It might not be a bad Idea to build a computer and test it under load with different airflow configs and compare the thermal results. (positive pressure, negative pressure, exhaust top, exhaust front) And ass someone mentioned, use a smoker to see how the air behaves in the case and where are the hot air pockets - one more reason to buy a thermal camera ;-)
4:11 it matters because of the GPU cooler type. Since the GPU is right below the top fans and also because its not a blower style or liquid cooled, the top fans would exhaust the hot air coming from the GPU much more efficiently and faster, because hot air moves upwards. I have tried a similar setup that you have done and it increased the temp of the GPU. The ideal fan placement for this setup would be the rad to be installed on top with fans as exhaust without any dust filter, and the two black fans as intake at the front to cool the GPU. It would still be possible to see the RGB this way. Also, if the fans are installed as exhaust at the front (like your setup) it is more difficult for air to escape because the front of the case is restricted. Yes, there are gaps on the sides, but it is still restricted. And I've noticed that the front dust filter is installed. That is a big NO... the filter is supposed to block dust from entering the case IF the fans are set as intake. Using it with fans as exhaust, it serves no purpose at all and it will prevent the rad air from escaping even further.
@@Kentish9494 oh sorry, didn't see that, my bad. So i guess it would have been better to install the rad fans as intake at the front, and leave the 2 black fans as they where, but the client wanted the bling bling :D
I would've done just that - but in Corsair's infinite wisom, you can't top mount a rad with the Vengeance RGB PRO memory modules because the case isn't quite tall enough for a top-mount rad to clear the RAM. Yes, corsair case, corsair cooler, corsair RAM - can't top mount.
@@Adamant_IT thanks for your reply. yeah unfortunately with these ram you can't have the perfect placement. Low profile, white Corsair LPX ram, would have been the best for this build, in my opinion, or a case with more clearance on top. For my 2nd rig, i have the black version of the Corsair Air 540 which has a lot of top clearance. It is an old case, but you can do whatever you want with your build. So much flexibility.
Hey, i didn't think that could be, reverse intake, but if it works why the hell not Right? i have the same board and Asus send a Bracket, to mount Tinn for a Boards DIMM not to overheat, now my question is do I need to add I the tiny fan, even if I have not OC my CPU??? But I am later when I learn a Little more. Anyone, please be kind to give any INFO regarding my Questions? TY
Have to ask your opinion. Does push or pull for the rad make a difference? I've sat mine up as front mount pull intake so I can see the fans if you see what I mean. Love your videos my brother! I've 30 years tinkering with computers and you still manage to teach me something in almost every video!
I _think_ push is considered more effective - however I've done both configurations plenty of times and seen no issue. A lot of the time it comes down to number chasing. Unless you're running everything at the bleeding edge, one or two degrees here or there isn't going to make a difference.
It's available on amazon, but I'm not going to start linking it quite yet, as I'm still trailing it - I don't want to recommend it until I've finished reviewing it, in case it dies in the first two weeks of use!
Keep up the great work and great videos. I do have a request. Can you show us what you recommend on your "Repair flash drive?" I am interested on what all you have on there. And/or what software you use to clean up slow PC's? Im fixing to go watch your video on this again, but I think it would be a good video if you have the time to go over it.
OK Let's remember that Adam had to go with the customers provision re cables et and their viewpoint on how they wanted him to re configure et the build. So overall a thumbs up for his being able to do that though I don't for one minute think he wasn't groaning on occasion 😒😊 I also agree with him re those 'black' fans as I would at the very least have gone for white ones. ✔😎
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[Edit 2, So Gamers Nexus just did a piece about radiator mounts, so now suddenly everyone's a radiator expert over night... The top of the radiator is higher than the pump, that's where the air will gather. I think GN are right, and hoses-low is good practise, and something that I'm going to take into account going forward, but I've got several AIOs that are 4+ years old and going strong. Hoses-high isn't a death-knell. I could see this being an issue on a bottom-mount rad though, as per their example. But that's a worst-case example that almost no one ever does.]
[Edit, Supplemental info - Top mount was not an option because it wouldn't clear the RAM. Yea it's dumb, corsair case, ram and cooler, and you can't top mount.]
Also Bring on the hate for my devious reverse-airflow plan. I'm ready.
your ideas are wrong adam
I see nothing wrong with this idea mate!
I don't see anything wrong with that.
:D before you mentioned top intake i was thinking top intake.
nothing wrong with it.
accidentally did back intake with my AMD 3700x and box cooler and turns out that relay drops temps, had mixed feelings after i flipped the fan to back out-take.
(did replace the cooler)
have PSU as out-take thanks to your videos!
What hate? The idea is a valid one where as long as there is intake and outtake flow, who gives a s*'t?
My gf pricked her ears up when you said "braided extensions" but her attention didn't last long after that
Cable management requires as much patience as tying braids.
Yeah mate I know what you mean, I'll take cable management every time though! Even if it is my least fav job😂😂
I think the reverse airflow implementation was actually very smart. As you said, it really doesn't matter what direction the air flows as long as heat is properly exhausted out of the case. Your re-cabling job was brilliant. You all but made the cables disappear. One always has to work with the constraints of the case design and your approach here was masterful. Bravo.
I did use your videos to perform a massive housekeeping of my current rig. Cable porn, fan orientation, flipped the power supply so it did not hoover my floor, Bios update and even installed an M2 and mirrored my current HDD to it. Your channel continuously provides above grade content for the amateur computer builder. My system wend from Win7 to Win 10 and has seen a massive upgrade in performance. Keep up the good work, and supporting the rite to repair.
You've given me much to think about. Old mechanic that I am, I have used clear packing tape to "close" unused fan openings and get the air flow pattern that I want. Won't pass the eagle-eyed inspection, but then there isn't any such for me.
I closed off the bottom of my case with sheets of printer paper that I cut to size and taped to the dust filter. It's more or less invisible from the outside. And yes, I mounted my PSU fan side up, on direct inspiration from Adam.
I love your videos! Other build channels are great but I think you’re the most genuine and down to earth. Hope you can get your new shop soon!
You're a bad / good influence, grin. You've motivated me to go clean up my old test-bed system and it is now a lot cleaner, much neater on the cable routing, and the air flow is sorted. Nothing fancy inside, just working good and looking like I cared. All the best to you and yours.
also adam with the custom braided cables instead of clipping off the excess combs you could have combed it to the 8 pin cables to so it would have a nice flush finish to it with no gaps
I was thinking the same thing
That's a great idea - will try that out next time 👌
i literally bought this case not that long ago i saw the original build on your channel and it is one of the easiest cases i've had to build in i owned a Deep cool tesseract before this though i've built in many cases including the NZXT H500i and i find it very similar it's nice and clean very happy with i've now got an i7 6700k with an RX 480 8GB and 16GB GB corsair LPX in it and the temps are phenomonal it's overclocked to 4.5 GHZ the ram with the overclock is at 2990MHZ furthest it would go overclocked love this system planning on upgrading to an AMD 3900X with either a 2080TI or a 2080 super and 32GB of trident Z royal Ram it's my ideal pc dream to own this build.
I also have a back to front air flow. A single 140mm intake in the rear through to a 360mm AIO rad at the front. It works great, temps are low.
id do top intake with the black fans
eidt i talk to soon so is he.
How's the dust?
Hi Adam! Good to see you are still with us 👀👍I was surprised given the power unit is modular that the customer opted for cable 'extensions' as I am sure they could have got modular plug in cables for that power unit. So sympathies re that situation. Also there are 'slim' versions of fans that could lie relatively flat against the case taking up less space. But of course time is a factor re obtaining those and et although that place does deliver next day 😎but as said in this 'case' hmm you have to go with the flow .. 🤔😊 Stay safe ! Gotta hit that thumbs up button ✔😎👍
Thanks for the video!
I had the the problem you mentioned at 9:24 with my Cooler Master Hyper212 LED.
I had to hold the standoff with pliers while unscrewing it.
And even tho I used 1 million zipties in my main build, some areas still look like a rats nest, and some are OK.
And when I upgraded my ASRock board to an asus one recently, the USB 3 headers socket (just the plastic, not the pins) came off with the connector of my icue 220t XD
I love your content and I apologize for my bad English XD
Wow! Night and day difference with just a bit of attention to detail. Nice work.
adam it's really nice seeing others with as much knowledge as i have in repairing computers. unlike other companies that turn on the computer and say its dead. no troubleshooting whatsoever literally only takes a rough hour of troubleshooting to come to a decision on what the problem is
You can do reverse air flow, it is indeed better, than how it was made before. However, just to point out, there is slight difference of which direction you do it. Hot air tend to go up, that's why usually the direction of the air flow is not only from the front to the back, but more important, it is going from the bottom to the top. In case of going from the top to the bottom, the hot air meets the cold air comming from the top resulting in tutbulences which can slightly decrease the cooling effect, if your front fans are not strong enough. Furthermore, standing upright and soacking the air on the top, you'll probably get the case dusty on the top faster. This is just to point out the disadvantages, however, as I told, blowing from the top rear to the bottom front is still better, than just to blow out on all sides. Actually, you also could place the front white cooler to the top completely, just as another option.
I have exactly the same cooler (all white Platinum H100i SE) ..it is a replacement as part of the faulty batch that was recalled by Corsair last year...(worth checking if the serial number begins with "1852"...mine did) long story (reported it on my channel) but the service wasn't great so they they ended up giving me a new one AND an additional free new one (it's still wrapped on my shelf) so good result....and it's been great since then.
The clamps on the pipes at the pump head & rad on the one in this vid are hexagonal...mine are circular...didnt make a note of what the one I sent back was but this looks from a different run because of that so its likely its fine.
Anyway I had the same prob with the fans re the RGB....mine is at eye level on my desk and the LL fans although looking great from the front have no sideways 'window' for the RGB so were wasted.
So I have just fitted some new (again done a vid) Alpenfohn fans from Overclockers (one of only a few places that sell them)....look great from the side...have slightly higher static pressure (so good for rads) than the high speeed LL's (there are 2 types..high and low rpm) and are well made and slightly quiter....I bought the 3 fan set with hub and remote control ...much cheaper than the Corsair's. This has freed up the LL's for a build where I can see the front of them in all their glory.
Re radiator mounting....yes I haven't a clue where is best....I am a retired gas engineer (for 42years man and boy :) ) and have fitted hundreds of radiators and pumps in houses with pumps upstairs and downstairs but can't comment on a sealed system like on a PC (my Corsair is at the top of my Lian Li Dynamic case)
Great vid as usual...very pleasant way to kill a few mins watching them :)
Very nice setup now. And on your way to 60k subscribers. That's fast. Congrats Adam. Dutch regards, Nico.
LMAO I had to comment. My late grandmother decades ago got in line for the newest thing a BRASS MAILBOX. For years it was the tin one at the end of the road, then the funky wood one with the bird handle then she got a spiffy brand new Brass box and her biggest love of that box was that it was such a pretty shade of blue on the front....
I'm a new subscriber and I've been binge watching to catch up over the last few days. I must say I like the straight forward and sensible style you have . I started watching after having some issues with the memory on my X99 system. I managed to fix the problem after re-seating all 4 dimms . Not sure what caused the problem but it went away.
As far as this build goes If people wanna hate on the reversed air flow then so be it , it's the customer's system and you followed their request. I'm a little curious as to why the top mount rad wouldn't work as this case looked like it had off-set rad mounts in the top. But as you said the rig had some tall memory sticks in it.
I guess we will see how this rig goes at keeping dust out of it. Cheers!
would have been great if you did a performance benchmark and thermal check so you have a benchmark so you can test that your tweaked rebuild has resulted in better cooling
This would've been cool to do, but sadly I didn't have the time on this one, as it was a same-day rush job. It's been running great since though, I did have to do a follow up due to a bad mount with the water cooler - for some reason this one's fussy. But the case airflow has been working just fine.
The USB header cable for the Bluetooth is, as I understand it, such that Bluetooth keyboards/mice work in the UEFI/BIOS, without the extra expense of a PCIe switch for USB through the slot.
Always great video's. Keep up the good work!
Back to front is actually something im considering. I have a front mounted radiator, and my GPU is blowing air out the back/front, which causes my front fans to just blow the hot air from the GPU back. I then have issues with higher GPU temps. But if i change my airflow from back to front, the back fan will just suck all the hot exhaust air from the GPU back in. And it will also make the front fans suck the 60+ C hot air directly in to the radiator.
It's better with the reverse-airflow, because the black case fans don't have enough static pressure to blow through the radiator.
Also it's recommended to check the cooler standoffs if they have the little plastic washer under them before ripping some traces on the motherboard. Newer mobos usually don't have any traces near the holes, but i've seen some with traces right next to the holes.
Good idea for the washers, yes. I never tighten enough to bite through the solder mask, but plastic/paper washers would certainly be insurance.
Was So Glad to see you had a New Video Out!! Thanks Brother!
She's a beauty. All the small things you did added up into a beautiful job well done.
May I say that this was a very nice job ? Well done !! 👍
"Monkey tight, not Gorilla tight " - brilliant quote!
Very nice, I really admire your patience and attention to detail. When I finish building my own PCs I am always too keen to see if everything is working OK to worry about cable management, but it does look nice...
I have the same case the only issue is that the mesh at front panel is finer than top one so in my eyes better flowing other way. This video came at a good time as I noticed my wiring is a mess although I did my best at the time.
Love the Attention To Detail, Thank you for the Video
I like that the last image we see after having seen a lot of cable porn, is the great cable management going to the security camera.
I use dual 280 aio's, one for cpu and one for gpu, both in exhaust. All hot air in exhausted, not blown into the case. Rear and bottom fans are intake. I achieve very low temps. My 1080ti under full load can raise the water temp to 55c while the pc remains less that 5c over ambient, keeping vrm's nice and cool. Never blow hot air into your pc if you can avoid it. The standard front mount rad with intake blowing onto you video card and MB is and has always been a bad idea. Also, keep you radiator horizontal or if vertically mounted, hoses down. This can prevent air going to and being trapped in the pump, which will kill it.
I've got top intake with bottom exhaust. I've done several reverse airflow cases too. It's doesn't matter. In fact in one case it gave me slightly lower temps compared to regular direction. 2-3' C.
29:43 "just wire tap... wire tie" Graham is a spy. Confirmed.
When someone's knocking on your door, don't open.
The fan on my Corsair CX750M PSU eventually did die after about 6 years, but i was able to replace it with a Fractal Design silent fan and now it is quieter than before.
If you start by connecting the extension to the motherboard, then pushing through the case holes, it is easier to get the finish look. At least that has been my experience.
Sounds like a good idea, I'll try it out on the next one!
I wish that on AiO Water coolers, inside the tubes were actually a wire hidden so at the radiator side, where we rout the fan wires would be where all the plugs would come out and plug on the pump. Very stealth it would be.
From that place you can buy magnetic dust filters OR filters that fit between the case and the fan though obviously you have to remove the fan to thoroughly clean the filter et I've used the magnetics before and they're not that expensive though hmm mine were black.. wonder if they do them in white.. 🤔
I have a box fan running near me while gaming and find that leaving the side off , it cools better than several fans/closed. I find the only thing you need is good video card cooling design and decent CPU cooler.
What a great guy, and awsum review. This guy should narrate my book, would be awsum.
The other issue with orienting the radiator so that the hoses are at the bottom is that then the hoses will cover the RAM, which given that it's expensive RGB RAM it's really not an option. I think like you say, the pump is lower than the radiator so everything else after that is nitpicking. Every aesthetical choice has a trade off, this one is minimal.
The hoses tend to get in the way of _something_ however you mount it, so I'm sure there's a nice way to arrange them with the rad ports at the bottom - just not something I've looked into yet. I'll be checking it out though - this is going to be a meta change because regardless of if it matters or not, I don't want every video I make from here on out to be a wall of "yOu mOuNtEd tHe rAd UpSIdE dOWn" comments.
Just came here after watching a Gamers Nexus video pointing out how the radiator should never be mounted like this with the pipes at the top as it causes air to get stuck at the inlet/outlet ports, potentially even pulled into the pump making it noisy at best, or wear it out prematurely at worst.
I've seen Steves vid too, but this is one of the few times you can get away with it, the pump is 4 inches lower than the head of the rad so air should stay up there, but to prime this just tilt the PC on its back and power it on , this will place the pump lower than the whole rad and it will prime perfectly.
All that said, this AIO does fit this case with the hoses at the preferable bottom position (my son has one setup that way) but without a GPU support I wouldn't want the hoses pushing down on the card end.
According to recent instruction vids the rad cables are wrong. Apparently it’s better to have rad at the top and move those at the top to vent.
The radiator is mounted the wrong way. The tubing should be in the bottom of the rad or the rad has to be mounted at the top of the case, which is the best solution. There was just recently a video from gamers nexsus about this.
Love your videos, only found your channel a month ago but have backwatched most of your vids... Love the repair pcs ones, as I run a repair business too
I took the Hard drive cage and moved it forward which gave me more room for the cabling.
Really enjoying your content, please keep up the great work and please continue to blast away. One thing which could have been done was to get cable replacements instead of e tensions, I use the Corsair premium individual sleeved psu cable starter kit, which is about £49.
Nice and tidy. Good job. Not a fan personally of RGB or current case designs but good cable management is always nice.
When anyone other than me builds a computer: "Yea there's like 5 cables."
When I build a computer: "Man why are there like 50 cables in my computer wth is this? There's no way this cable can bend like that."
Literally just rebuilt my computer in a new case designed around not burning your hand when you touch the side panel after playing a game.
On a side note my case advertises being able to put 2 120mm fans on the bottom to suck air in just above the powersupply and the USB 3.0 wire is so stiff you literally have to choose between having USB 3.0 and 1 fan or no USB 3.0 and 2 fans... I chose 1 fan.
@AdamantIT I have a question if you see this then grate please reply.
I'm going to build a pc but I'm wondering if I can mount the fans on the front of the cooler so the fans are facing me with rgb so the side without the 2 tubes?
Yes you can, this is the best way to do it on an airflow case. If you have a glass-fronted case, make sure the fans are on the inside of the front panel, so there's an airgap between them and the glass, otherwise they won't get any airflow.
@@Adamant_IT Hi, thank you soo much. If you have spare time could maby tell me if this is a good a case at all for airflow and other things?
It's on the Currys web here is the item name : CORSAIR Crystal Series 570X RGB Mid-Tower ATX PC Case.
Thanks,
@Bunny Love will do thank you!
It would be nice if these super big gfx cards had voltage connectors at the MB side too. Those cables were not visible at all.
Brilliant video. Loved all of it.
for me, id buy replacement braided cables with nice combs for the modular power supply's there only a few quid extra especially if your outlaying all that money on a new pc and extensions and cablemod are really good at what they do.
I enjoy these pc rehab videos
The m3 screws with the washers are the correct screws and come with the radiator. What you mistake as course is actually threads for the m3 screws. The original screws are the same thread as the longer screws the fans are screwed in with which you could have compared before you ruined the original threads.
Would moving the rad and corsair fans to top exhaust and the 2 other fans to front intake make for better airflow? Curious because I'm interested in using an aio in the future
Would've been the best solution, but won't clear the RAM :(
@@Adamant_IT Oh wow, ok that's something I'll have to take into consideration when I eventually upgrade parts, Thanks!
keep up the great vids!
I use that screwdriver but from a different vendor, same thing but its become my go to driver when working on PC, Laptops and general electronics, comes with a good assortment of tips as well. USB rechargeable from a PC USB port too.
How has yours held up? I've had someone predict that mine would lose all its torque in a short lifespan... but if that doesn't come to pass, I've so far been pretty impressed.
@@Adamant_IT I am not using it to put screws into wood or anything but for PCs and Laptops, no issues. probably wouldn't want any more torque on them screws anyways. like you said, monkey tight, not gorilla tight... lol.
I think I'm more partial to doing all of the pretty work with the motherboard side first, and then inserting and connecting the power supply last. That way the cable can't be too long on the pretty side. I guess everyone has their preferences. 🤷🏻♂️
I have no problem with the reverse air flow but that radiator install should be fixed its probably noisier then intended. It should be flipped hoses to the bottom of the case and same with the pump.
Just wondering, wouldn't the reverse airflow config pull residual heat generated from the VRMs / CPU and especially heat from the GPU into the radiator? That would then introduce heat back into the liquid which would then flow back into the pump. At least, that what I think. 🤷
Theoretically yes, but it doesn't make that much of a difference in the real world.
This is giving me ideas to turn my top fans around, have them as intake's to blow down on the CPU, flip the rear fan around, CPU fan to the rear of the cooler and the 3 front fans to exhaust fans. But leave the 3 PSU fans the same, yeah I have 10 RGB fans in my rig, RGB 24 pin extension and RGB on the GPU.
I wouldn't go for this config unless you're limited to it personally... This was more of making the best of what options were available.
I have exact build just like this. My problem are the MB standoffs, somehow the middle standoff just wont align i try many times snugging the back io until my MB jammed shut because some of the standoffs pins get caught in the screwhole, i try hard to pull off my MB, until i realize im screwed when i Saw some scratches and exposed coppper traces on the back PCB around the middle screwhole. 😂😂😂
I would have had before and after at the end. Could you have used the comb end to link the 8 pin and 6 pin together side by side?
I've learned a lot watching you.
The Corsair H100i RGB Platinum SE (The white version) actually comes with LL fans, not ML. It's the black version which comes with ML.
Not a bad job, but not a sterling advertisement for your services.
1. Take a photo before you start so you know what goes where. Particularly SATA cables. It also helps you show the customer the before and after.
2. Don't plug anything into x16 slots other than the top one without confirming that doing so won't affect the performance of the top slot and NVME drives. You just halved the PCI Express bandwidth going to the GPU, changing the top slot from a x16 slot to a x8 slot.
3. Since the two top fans are adjacent, consider rotating them so the wires are together. Doing this with the RGB fans could produce interesting results. :)
4. Use the second 3.5" drive bay for cable storage.
5. The GPU cables would have been better off coming out the grommet physically below the GPU.
6. The problem with the reverse airflow is that all the noise comes out the front, straight at the customer if it's sitting on their desk.
7. Put grilles on the top fans to prevent damage to the AIO tubes. You can even get LED grilles. Grilles on fans prevent accidental ouches too.
Really you should have replaced the black fans with white ones - white RGB ones would have been even better - but I think you said that the customer was unwilling to pay. And you could have taken the time to remove the unused blanking plates and replace them with ones you'd previously spraypainted white. If the customer were willing you could also do that with the plates of the GPU and WiFi cards if they're detachable. Obviously that would take time.
Would have liked a before and after picture side by side. Anyway, great job Mr Adam, makes me want to redo my wires.
ok, the air intake at the back and top with no dust screens is triggering me, not gonna lie. (is there a screen for the top I didn't see?) and the exhaust at the front, of course, has a dust screen... to keep the dust that's coming in from the back and top IN the case!! Triggered!! I did like this video though, a lot of useful stuff going on here. I really like this channel because he is dealing with a customer and customer pc's, not talking about his own personal builds. this is more of a real world situation. plus I really like his troubleshooting videos, super interesting watching someone else's process. keep up with !the great content!
Ye, top vent is filtered, which is why I moved the rear fan to the top 👌
Adam, a bit off topic but can you do a video explaining everything you need to know but we're afraid to ask about RGB systems. I am a retired computer engineer and have been building PCs since 1995. But, even I was caught out by a schoolboy error when faced with lighting up my latest PC.
I have an Asus b450 mb and Ryzen 7 fitted with stock cooler that has RGB technology built in. So to compliment that, I bought a cooler master RGB case fan. It wasn't cheap at £20 and it seemed to have the right connections (4 pin connector for power an what I thought was a 4 pin connector for the LEDs). A quick check of my mobo and yes I had an aura 4 pin header, so I ordered the fan. When it came, I discovered the RGB system was not compatable. My mobo's 4 pin aura header is 12v, r, g, b grounds pins and the fan had a 4 pin connector 5v, blank, ground, TDM pins.
All is not lost because I have ordered a converter that is powered by a sata cable and converts the aura 12 volt system to the 5 volt TDM system. So, my lesson is that it cost me a total of £40 and would have been more if not for Amazon prime just to add 1 pretty fan to my case.
That's a great idea, because RGB is a minefield of different systems, some compatible and some not. I'll try and put something together 👌
Would you consider it risky to use an AIO water cooler in a PC?
Amazon reviews seem to show a lot of leakage after a short time with them, and I don't want to risk ruining a Ryzen 3600 and a 2060.
I've seen the water coolers for cooling projectors lasting at least 10 years without issue, could I expect this from one of those PC ones?
It's hard to give a straight answer with this... I've never seen a big fail with one of these. Only see one fail full stop, and that was a duff pump, not a leak. I've heard from someone who had a leak, so it can happen, but it's not common enough to concern me. I _think_ the warranty covers damage to other components.
Another great video
Wondering if anyone knows why my pc is randomly shutting off when I try to load CS:GO? It's a core 2 duo e7600, 700w OCZ psu, gtx 560ti and all the updates are the most recent
Those OCZ PSUs are getting old... might be on its way out.
I got a friend still using one of my old 850w OCZ PSUs lol , and it's powering a 8350fx & 2 GTX 760's
@@Adamant_IT That's a pain in the arse, it runs tf2 fine but the only reason I bought a pc was to play the two
Does it do this with any other game or just cs go?
I can't believe I just found out about your channel, your content is amazing!
I am loving the case, but for a HD LED i went for the Phantecks P500A RGB case. A bit more expensive than the P400A but has all the lights
I really want to check out the P500a, but it's out of stock everyone in the UK :(
@@Adamant_IT I can happily lend you mine for a week to do a video on if you want? I am only in Bournemouth
the radiator on the AOI is upside down. the tubes should be at the bottom.
I just thought, if you have 14 or 16 wires coming to the GPU, you could use 16 wire cable combs. That would tidy up the curves and align the 2 separate stacks.
To be honest, I don't see the issue with a reverse airflow setup. As long as the PC is getting proper air into the system, then it should be fine.
The airflow issue is for that poor GPU, which usually only gets about half a fan's worth of fresh air anyway. Now, it gets none, except I'm sure that mostly decorative backplate is nice and cool.
This is why the form over function cases and products fail. The idea is to make the stuff on the screen pretty, and IF you can also do it for the stuff inside the case after that, all the better. But if you can't do it without hurting performance, then just stick to what performs best.
Thanks Graham. I learn a lot by making mistakes or being warned of possible traps. Great stuff and very helpful to add to my background knowledge.
Two things:
I'm about a year away from saving up the pennies for (probably) a good unclocked Intel build with good graphics.
The accent will be on showing movies on monitor or HDMI extension. - probably 4k, sound editing and long life >7 years in a dusty, warm environment.
I've never used water cooling before and I am worried about the results of 'if it leaks'.
How do you guys avoid leaking/long life etc in the build?
I will be concerned with it being as quiet a poss and running cool. I am only concerned with one game 'Elite Dangererous'.
12 months to go.....
Love your videos :) Just bought that screwdriver as well.
is the radiator not turned wrong ?? have heard that the pump motor must be at the bottom (it is in the radiator where the hoses come in)
Pump is in the head not the rad on the vast majority of AIOs. And yea, there's merit in having the hoses at the bottom - I need to do test runs with it myself to see how routing works out. GN's new video does show good testing, but they were also showing a very extreme example. The pump doesn't sit higher than the top of the rad in most setups.
@@Adamant_IT you are the best IT youtuber,
your customers are some lucky people
That air coming in the back will bring in dust and what ever else that is circulating in the computer room. It will mean more maintenance to keep it clean..
What air coming in the back? It's coming in the top through a filter
@@cjmillsnun Where the rear fan was that he put in the top of the case to bring air in.. watch the video..
Just stumbled up on this channel, is this the English Linus tech tips or something haha, you’ve gained a subscriber :)
Sure $50 for a cable cleanup! Here's your $400 bill for a rebuild! LOL All kidding aside love the channel just Subbed! Keep up the excellent work!
Fabulous job as always, I just would like to ask you about your thermal paste application. Everyone under the sun recommends the famous pea-sized droplet, but you do an X-marks-the-spot. Why?
Please for give the facebook link, but this video demonstrates it well: facebook.com/601457763336866/posts/1705766756239289/
A real CPU cooler will have more clamping force than this, so this is an exaggeration, but it shows how X will almost certainly assure better coverage than pea-dot. The video also shows that it most likely won't matter in the majority of cases, but X seems to be a very safe option.
Moved over my new ryzen stuff over to a MSI Mag Forge 100M case, it's compact but I fitted everything in. Just don't look at the back lol I did my best but the area for the PSU and HDD caddy isn't great so a bit tight
so the rad was meant to go to the top of the case, but it just didn't fit there (at least it looks that way) and it was put on the front, and this caused strange air circulation problem, i think this pc case is not fully compatible with this cooler or ram is too tall :)
Nice tidy build you have there.
I do not build for anyone else only myself and I prefer to use non modular PSU's and never any extensions as to me it adds another failure point.
I don't know the specs for the fans, but have you though about exchanging them? I mean putting the black on the rad and whites with rgb on the top.
It might not be a bad Idea to build a computer and test it under load with different airflow configs and compare the thermal results. (positive pressure, negative pressure, exhaust top, exhaust front)
And ass someone mentioned, use a smoker to see how the air behaves in the case and where are the hot air pockets - one more reason to buy a thermal camera ;-)
4:11 it matters because of the GPU cooler type. Since the GPU is right below the top fans and also because its not a blower style or liquid cooled, the top fans would exhaust the hot air coming from the GPU much more efficiently and faster, because hot air moves upwards. I have tried a similar setup that you have done and it increased the temp of the GPU. The ideal fan placement for this setup would be the rad to be installed on top with fans as exhaust without any dust filter, and the two black fans as intake at the front to cool the GPU. It would still be possible to see the RGB this way. Also, if the fans are installed as exhaust at the front (like your setup) it is more difficult for air to escape because the front of the case is restricted. Yes, there are gaps on the sides, but it is still restricted. And I've noticed that the front dust filter is installed. That is a big NO... the filter is supposed to block dust from entering the case IF the fans are set as intake. Using it with fans as exhaust, it serves no purpose at all and it will prevent the rad air from escaping even further.
Graham put a text there saying the rad couldn't be top mounted due to no clearance for RAM
@@Kentish9494 oh sorry, didn't see that, my bad. So i guess it would have been better to install the rad fans as intake at the front, and leave the 2 black fans as they where, but the client wanted the bling bling :D
I would've done just that - but in Corsair's infinite wisom, you can't top mount a rad with the Vengeance RGB PRO memory modules because the case isn't quite tall enough for a top-mount rad to clear the RAM.
Yes, corsair case, corsair cooler, corsair RAM - can't top mount.
@@Adamant_IT thanks for your reply. yeah unfortunately with these ram you can't have the perfect placement. Low profile, white Corsair LPX ram, would have been the best for this build, in my opinion, or a case with more clearance on top. For my 2nd rig, i have the black version of the Corsair Air 540 which has a lot of top clearance. It is an old case, but you can do whatever you want with your build. So much flexibility.
Hey, i didn't think that could be, reverse intake, but if it works why the hell not Right? i have the same board and Asus send a Bracket, to mount Tinn for a Boards DIMM not to overheat, now my question is do I need to add I the tiny fan, even if I have not OC my CPU??? But I am later when I learn a Little more. Anyone, please be kind to give any INFO regarding my Questions? TY
can you put a link to the electric screw driver you used please what did you think of the screwdriver is it worth using
I'll have a video about it up this week, links will be there!
Have to ask your opinion. Does push or pull for the rad make a difference? I've sat mine up as front mount pull intake so I can see the fans if you see what I mean. Love your videos my brother! I've 30 years tinkering with computers and you still manage to teach me something in almost every video!
I _think_ push is considered more effective - however I've done both configurations plenty of times and seen no issue. A lot of the time it comes down to number chasing. Unless you're running everything at the bleeding edge, one or two degrees here or there isn't going to make a difference.
Can I have a link to that electric screwdriver?
It's available on amazon, but I'm not going to start linking it quite yet, as I'm still trailing it - I don't want to recommend it until I've finished reviewing it, in case it dies in the first two weeks of use!
@@Adamant_IT 🙇🏽♂️ thank you.
Keep up the great work and great videos.
I do have a request.
Can you show us what you recommend on your "Repair flash drive?" I am interested on what all you have on there. And/or what software you use to clean up slow PC's?
Im fixing to go watch your video on this again, but I think it would be a good video if you have the time to go over it.
Wow, I totally didn't know that small PCI express cards like WiFi cards could use the longer PCI express slots! TIL!
you got a link for that screwdriver? looks slick :)
OK Let's remember that Adam had to go with the customers provision re cables et and their viewpoint on how they wanted him to re configure et the build. So overall a thumbs up for his being able to do that though I don't for one minute think he wasn't groaning on occasion 😒😊
I also agree with him re those 'black' fans as I would at the very least have gone for white ones. ✔😎