DARKROOM PRINT SESSION - KODAK TRI-X 400 SEASCAPE
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 17 окт 2024
- INSTAGRAM: / shootfilmlikeaboss
PATREON / shootfilmlikeaboss
Developing Kodak Tri-x 400 in XTOL diluted at 1:3 for 12.5 mins. I read that by increasing the dilution leads to sharper images and lower contrast. Something I will have to test at some point.
This is a seascape scene shot on a Nikon F90X. The negative looked overexposed and possibly over developed! But still, It's interesting to try and make a print with what you have!
SUPPORT MY CHANNEL ON PATREON
I have a Patreon Page where you can become a Patron of 'Shoot Film Like a Boss' and watch un-released videos, blog posts and my other film photography related ideas and thoughts.
PATREON / shootfilmlikeaboss
SHOUT OUTS TO OTHER CHANNELS
ABOUT MY VIDEOS
If my videos inspire, create ideas and help others in film photography and darkroom work then it's worth making them.
I always welcome comments that are useful towards the video subject that will help others understand the process within.
Keep shooting and thanks for watching.
MY SOCIAL LINKS
PATREON / shootfilmlikeaboss
WEBSITE: www.shootfilml...
FACEBOOK PAGE: / shootfilmlikeaboss
INSTAGRAM: / shootfilmlikeaboss
TWITTER: / shootfilmlikeaboss
MUSIC CREDITING
Easier to Fade (feat. Madi Larson) by A Himitsu / a-himitsu
Creative Commons - Attribution 3.0 Unported- CC BY 3.0
creativecommons....
Music promoted by Audio Library • Easier to Fade (feat. ...
"Scheming Weasel (faster version)" Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0
creativecommons....
Music promoted by Audio Library • Scheming Weasel (faste...
![COLOMBIA vs. CHILE [4-0] | RESUMEN | ELIMINATORIAS SUDAMERICANAS | FECHA 10](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/TDjN4W3yy1k/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for all your comments. I have a few comments on why did I not split grade. Sometimes I like to try different approaches, that's all. In this case I played around with some pre-flashing, a grade 2 and a grade 5 Filter. I have a video on Split Grade Printing here ruclips.net/video/KlVSdiEhafA/видео.html
Never worry about repeating a yourself. Repetition is how we learn !!! Thanks so much. RS. Canada
Brilliant and so many happy memories for me.... I left school was lucky to get to work on thw Local Evening Newspaper, spent two years in the darkroom, being taught by a professional wedding and commercial photographer on how to print. Went on to become a staff photographer on the paper. Used Rolliflex TLR 120 then Minolta SR101/Pentax 35mm. Used D76 developer and then ID11. Used Tri-X 400 for both as this gave us maximum speed with quality. Used to do football on a Saturday ( Winter months ) double strength developer ( hot ) quick Fix and Wash then wet neg in a glass carrier, print , down to the picture editors desk. 1 hour later in the late edition of the Sports section, on sale 5pm after the game finished. It all came back watching your vids.. fabulous and so many happy memories.... Still have film cameras but use Digital SLR's these days and Photoshop. Surprisingly a lot of the darkroom skills are still pertinent when using Digital Editing Software. I realise now just how enjoyable darkroom printing was/is and produces some stunning prints. Many thanks, will now start to binge watch all your videos :-)
I am studying in Essen, Folkwang University right now, "Photography Studies and Research", and your videos are saviors! What you do is really really amazing, you create wonderful content. I shoot digital my whole life (well, Im 25, so probably 10 years already), and only got to experience film photography just recently, also started working in darkroom. You help a lot, dont stop doing your inspiring work! Thank you very much!!!!
Thanks buddy. Good luck with your studies!
Your Films bring me the fun back on Photography...
That was a lot of work!! But always a pleasure when accompanied with a beer :-)
Better than watching TV!
Shoot Film Like a Boss Most definitely!!! 😎🤘
A lovely print in the end after all the fighting in the darkroom :)
30 minuets of pure joy for me, just loving your output, one of the best on RUclips.
Thanks Harry!
Your show & tell about preflashing the paper was well done and easy to understand. Thanks.
I definitely have to take that next step and build a darkroom.
Did you do it?
Looks great. I was planning on learning darkroom printing but it's a little overwhelming seeing how much knowledge you must need to print like that.
I've watched a heap of your videos recently and I really enjoy them. Love how you leave in things that don't exactly work out.
It's what happens! Loads of fails 😁
Hey, what a great point about wiping off the radiator! It seems like common sense after you mention it, but not so obvious. Dust prevention for the win. Another awesome vid btw :)
Watching your videos I have realized that I need to set up a darkroom
Favourite youtube channel. Please keep it up mate!! :)
Welcome Roger!
Thanks for the quick response! I still have a few dice in Pentacon Six. / Ilford XP2 /.
I'm going to try this pre-wash There are photos and portraits in the photos as well.
Not sure about XP2 but From experience with FP4 your pre wash water will come out like a blue dye! I used to agitate like I would in development. And make sure your wash water is the same temp as your developer. Good luck 😊
Very nice print. Thanks for sharing
My favorite combo is Tri-x/Xtol. Early on when Xtol was first on the market, Kodak had different dilution/time on the packet and after a year or so they stopped suggesting the higher dilutions. I tried many different dilutions/time and 1:1 became my go to. On a side note; I found fp4 dev in d-76 gave similar results/feel/grain-structure as Tri-x/Xtol for me. Good luck, and keep up the good work. Cheers!
Thanks Anthony! That's interesting read!
Great information! I loved your process and narrative. Great photograph!
Thanks John!
Rich content. Thanks for all you do.
Thanks mate. And thanks for your continued support
Great job and very inspiring. Reminds me to go to the lab more often. Thank you
Wonderful! Nice Contrast!
Thanks mate. Nice photos on Instagram today!
great work and great instructional video on printing. thanks
Im learning alot from you! Thanks!
Thanks Johan! Keep watching 😃
Great practical video.
Thank you very much for sharing. The print looks really good.
Maybe my favorite print I’ve seen on your channel 🙂
Thanks Gameloozer! A tricky neg but it turned out nice.
Thank you!Good job!!
Thank you too!
Well done video again! I am doing darkroom printing myself and I get many ideas from watching you in the darkroom, Awesome print sir ! Cheers
Thanks Andy!
Really loved this video and your darkroom sessions! Keep up the good work!
Another great video 👍 as always. Big hug and good photos.
Hugs back! Cheers Pedro!
nice wall tray setup rodger and I dig how u have rigged 2x enlargers off 1 timer sleek dodging the rock im thinking of getting that ring tone for my phone big flash back
Haha. Phone was in my pocket
What aperture do you usually use on your enlarger lens? Does it make a difference between making a print at f/5.6 as opposed to f/16? I was told to use the smallest aperture and sometimes my times are ridiculously long
I usually use f5.6 or F8. I think lenses work best 2 or 3 stops down. So a f2.8 lens sweet spot would be f5.6 / f8. I only use f16 if I want longer exposure times for dodging and burning. Usually I'm at f5.6 or F8. I haven't seen much difference between f2.8 and f16 other than exposure times.
I'm pretty sure the C&C Music Factory bit made my night.
Ha ha. It all kicked off what with the phone, the dog and the rat! Typical.
There are so many videos on film developers but almost no paper developer videos. I have always used Dektol or Multigrade, there are others at photographers formulary I have not tried. What is your favorite ? Where do you get those Kentmere Rolls ?
Kentmere film is part of Harman/Ilford so easy to buy. Mostly I use Ilford MG Developer. I'm not sure you'll see a great difference in prints with standard print developers.
Shoot Film Like a Boss I have never seen paper on rolls like that in the USA. Maybe they exist here. I don’t know. Spent part of tonight setting up my enlarger again. I’m pumped. I found a roll of P3200 I never processed for 9 years. It’s if my Son when he was 6. I think that will be my return to printing print. I haven’t printed in like 6 years.
Great channel thanks. I have a question with regards to the paper you use. What is best, glossy or matte paper and what do you use to print large prints for the wall?
Thanks again for the great channel..
I use gloss most of the time. Only because I like the look. it's all personal taste
Roger that's a really nice print. I was just wondering why you went to grade 2 and grade 5. I would have thought with such a constrasty neg you would have gone grade 0 and grade 5. But perhaps there is a reason you start at grade 2?
Hi Matt. I wanted to have a punchy print. Keep a high contrast. But the unfiltered test was crazy contrast! So I grabbed my grade 2 which would cut contrast but not as much as grade 0. The grade 5 was just for the sea and to pop the blacks in the shadows of the waves and also the rocks.
Great video. Thanks. How does it come that you need 3 minutes for the positive exposure? Even at f5.6. What is the power of the enlarger‘s bulb?
75w but since I split the two enlargers on the same timer for some reason I've lost wattage on the bulb. I need to look into it!
Nice Stella Artois. Good taste bud they are better from bottles :D Greetz from Belgium i'm getting an enlarger next week
Nice one Ken. Have fun with it. ✌️
I would have loved seeing how you dodged that rock for 2 minutes plus another minute for the 5 contrast without creating unevenness and a halo around it. Knowing how hard that would be, I wouldn't have even tried to make that print without a precise mask of some sort for the rock dodge. I assume you had to dodge the rock's shadow also.
Good for you!
Very nice indeed
Beautiful print :-)
Thanks Amanda!
The print turned out great! I just have to say that pre-flashing is an old technic that was really made for fixed grade paper, you should learn split grade printing (using low contrast filters to control highlights and high contrast ones to control the shadows) it makes the printing proccess very easy and a lot quicker
Thanks Pedro! I have a video on split grade. I just like trying other alternatives. By keeping the session on grade two filter does that not limit the MG paper to a grade two?
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss maybe yes, you are right. But that way i think you whould be wasting the potential of both papers (you are not using the fine grain and excelent sharpness of a fixed grade paper, and you're not using the ugeee tonal range of MG paper). But who cares what technic you are using as long as the end result looks good!
@@pedronunes6401 Ahh, I see. So a graded paper is better to use that MG paper and a graded filter? I've never tried graded paper.
I think you’re doing the right thing by preflashing the paper. I studied with very knowledgeable photographers and AFAIK there’s no other way to achieve what you did except by preflashing.
Graded papers are fine. However the exposure of the negative has to be very rigidly controlled to make a fine print. I agree with your method of using variable contrast papers. Your videos are superb. I am grateful for the darkroom work shown. It’s a treat that you keep the video rolling during your printing process. Thanks & good luck!!!
Well worked again 👍 you have to love the darkroom it may seem a faff in this day and age of instant everything but I love it! You can learn more about photography from a darkroom session than any course! You’ve done a really nice job on this vid if anyone has ever tried it they will appreciate the techniques you’ve used! Keep them coming 👍👍👍
Cheers Franko. Yeah it's a challenge that I enjoy to try and learn
I have realized that the more I have learned about analogue photography, the less I actually know!! It's such a deep subject.
@@IainHC1 Ha ha. Exactly how I feel. I it's just a step Ladder! Just when you think you've got so far you slip down a step. Just gotta keep climbing.
Nice shot matey, well worth the effort! Have a search for Darkroom Dave on here, he used to work for Ilford and has a video about split grade printing showing his technique. Everybody dance now... I bet you were out raving with the rest of us back in the day ;-)
Andy
Ha ha. You bet. Still hanging on.
Dense contrasty negatives are a pain in the ass to print! You did a great Job Roger!! And by the way great photo!
Thanks Gianni!
Great job making a beautiful print from a tough negative! It'd be interesting to see your xtol dilution test, mainly because I'd never bother to it myself :) For me 1+1 is the right balance between saving on developer and longer dev times.
Mine is usually 1:1 Tapia.
Super as always. Lots of work has gone in there. I usually use Ilford Ilfotec DD-X and use it 1:4 pretty much always. Seems to work well for me but different dev to what you are using. I like watching how you assess the print timings. Very helpful. I wonder if you have a stock of the frames? I'm guessing you must have. Can I ask where you order them from? I have a local framing shop near me but frames that size are £20-£30 upwards (material depending).
Do you use it 1:4 to save developer or for creative reasons? I get my frames from a local home store. They are a good price. About £7 for a 20x20 frame. I cut the mounts myself. I don't sell frames. They are for my home so I'm not looking for Top quality. Just attractive contemporary. I used to cut my own frames and order the mouldings. My mate has a framing shop and he met let use his gear but it's much easier and time efficient to buy at the home store.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss "Do you use it 1:4 to save developer or for creative reasons?" - it just says to use it at that ratio on the bottle. I've always just blindly followed it. So a 1 litre bottle will allow me to develop about 10-12 rolls. I've never really thought about reducing or increasing the ratio.
@@tedsmith_photography ahh, I see. The massive Dev chart also gives times for 1:9 and also Stock (undiluted). I use XTOL either stock or 1:1. Then I read the more dilution you get sharper images and less contrast. Have a Google see what others say about dilution on DDX.
@@tedsmith_photography Here is a link to download the info sheet for DDX www.ilfordphoto.com/ddx
Shoot Film Like a Boss ok I will check that out. Might save me some money and get some different results too!
Hi Roger, just wanted to wish you a Merry Christmas and a great New Years. Cheers
Thanks Socrates! And you also!
Great video, I enjoyed it, thanks Roger! One question: how did you expose the tri-x 400? I only shot a couple of rolls last year in Japan on 35mm and was a bit disappointed afterwards. I developed in x-tol as well, but 1:1. They came out pretty flat during the first overview scans I made last year. Haven't really printed them yet in my darkroom because they didn't came out as expected. Did you meter the tri-x at 400iso?
Hey! I spot metered on the white water then over exposed by a stop. My XTOL was at 1:3. Fresh too! Was your XTOL fresh? I've had dull looking negs from developer that is on it's way out.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Yeah my xtol was fresh and I metered with my Yashica Electro 35GSN which meters perfectly accurate. No problems with Delta400 for example. I've read that one should set the meter to 200iso oder something between 200 and 320iso when developing for 400iso. I was a bit confused after my results and the comments I read about the film. Did you set your camera to 400iso?
Oh I see, you overexposed one stop, so you exposed for 200iso, which would give you a decent neg then
@@monochromfotoart Not quite. I spot metered at 400 on the white water. My camera would have read that as middle grey like all meters do. So I just over exposed by one stop I think from 1/500 to 1/250. So the white water would be whiter than the meter read. That's all I did.
@@monochromfotoart Changing the film speed depends on your development process and developer. Have a look at my video a couple of weeks ago on film speed and check out the link I put in the description re Tom Halfill. Hope this helps 😊
Always an informative and motivating pleasure. Had you thought of doing a comparative shoot using 35mm and medium format? For example comparing identical shots on identical film at the same exposure and ISO ratings. You could compare the image quality using one of your more modern SLRs with a good prime lens (Nikon, Canon etc) with the Zeiss Ikon Nettar and its older lens technology and thereby establish if the 6x6 format makes up for any difference in lens performance.
Thanks David. Interesting thought. I'm not sure if it would be a fair test as the Nettar does have a brilliant 75mm lens. Are you saying sharpness?
Ah there's me making assumptions about the Nettar lens. Yes entirely fair point if it's a great lens in its own right then it wouldn't be a fair comparison. Yes sharpness was the initial thought. I'm just running a comparison shoot taken on a 6x7 Bronica with great P series lens and an old Nikon F (early 1970s) with its legendary Nikkor f1.2 50mm both on FP4 developed in ID11 1+1. I'm sort of curious whether the only advantage of MF over 35mm is the ability to enlarge further...more specifically at what size of print does the MF image start to have an obvious advantage over the 35mm (all other things being equal of course). I'm hoping that knowing the answer will inform me on which kit to take on which shoot especially where weight becomes an issue (Bronica GS-1 plus tripod is heavy!!)...spending the next couple of days in the darkroom so hope to have some sort of answer...keep up the good work btw...great viewing
love your videos
Marvelous
Nice print, great job.
But I am puzzeled by the metering. What area is grey +1.
If I shoot a scene I'll spot meter the brightest areas. Here it was the white water. If I'd shot at the meter reading the white water would have been middle grey. So I increased my exposure by one stop from say 1/500 to 1/250 so the white water would not turn out middle grey. I do this a lot with scenes.
I was thinking that the white sould be over +2. Anyhow there are 2 white areas with maybe 1 stop between.
@@ytdanielle it was a very bright scene over water with a big rock in semi shadow. Great subject to pohotograph but I knew I'd have some work to do. I could have metered the white water, then the shadow and met it half way. Ive had good results with that
Thank you for the answer. I just wandered about metering. Now looking at the first part of the video I understand the challenge and I appreciate better the end results. The rock is brighter and has more definition. Great.
@@ytdanielle If you have a DSLR Dan put it in spot meter mode. Meter for anything around you that is white. If you're meter reading is zero (correct exposure according to the camera) your white scene will be middle grey.
Your Red light is soooo bright ! Maybe it's just the camera. I only use the "OC" yellow lights. I thought red lights would fog my papers..
It's not really. I boost the brightness in the editing so you guys can see.
Shoot Film Like a Boss I thought that’s what it was. After watching your vids and Lina’s Vids I am installing my Enlarger again. A Beseler 45M. Going to stir some chems again.
Thought you used the filters that had carriers all ready around them. With the numbers on the end.
I do. That's an old vid. 👍
Just made my first landscape print shot on TRI-X 400 6x6 negative. I hate it way to contrasty and way to grainy. TRI-X is my most favored street film for exactly those same attributes. But fails hard for my Landscapes. IMHO of course.
I noticed the strip of white on the left in the first print shown. Looks like you reprinted it?
Yeah, I did actually end up showing that on tape and comparing it to the re print but decided to leave it out the cut. Video was long enough! I framed the re print. Well spotted! I must have knocked the template or carrier. So yeah I had to make an identical print which was fun! Ha
Have you thought about getting a Philips PDT024 automatic timer or anything similar? I found mine to measure extremely well
No Tim. What benefits does it have over a normal digital timer or phone app?
It determines the exposure time for you, often eliminating the need for test strips. With the PDT024 you measure for the highlights in the negative, and the timer will determine the exposure time. Only time this doesn't work is when the part with the highlights you want to measure for don't completely cover the photo cell.
@@timverheijen2622 Thanks. I shall have a Google !
how do you measure for split grade with this machine? I found a manual for it and it states the machine should be calibrated for the current paper gradation. Using Multigrade paper ... how would this work then?
@@monochromfotoart Split grade would be rather difficult.. perhaps some math could help you. Using multigrade paper wouldn't be a problem as long as you're using the same filter throughout the whole exposure. It's basically just an incidence photo meter that meters the light at one point in time
I just shot a roll of 35mm TRi-X and I exposed at 1600 iOS and will push it one stop today in development. Just want to see what happens with it. The Scenes were all heavy fog and trees. Just for fun
Well my roll came out with nothing on it. My daughter emptied the Developer jug and filled it with water.
You live in a paradise.
Welcome Roger!
More and more blogs and videos show that pre-wash is used before the negative film is being developed to increase the contrast of the film. What do you think?Tamás.
Hi Tamas! I'm not sure if a prewash increases contrast. It's not a practice I've subscribed to when developing although I used to prewash MF Film when stand developing in Rodinol and only because I was shown that way. Some say you get un even development if you submerge wet film into developer. Others pre wash film to remove the anti-halation dye so it doesn't contaminate the developer if the developer is going to be reused. I haven't done any tests on this but thanks for bringing it up. I may have a play to see any differences!
"I am not one of those guys that's gonna sit and start picking at my work, wasting paper . . ." LOL. That's exactly what I'm planning on. I'm going to begin with one image, for which I estimate it'll take something like 3 months. I don't think it'd be possible to complete it in under six weeks, and if it takes more than six months, I figure it can';t be done in the darkroom. :) Anyways, I've used the vertical developing set up before, and I found it works better when the shelves are offset like a flight of stairs.
If it is any consolation, it hasn't been good weather on the continent either. But that is a nice challenge, right?
It is a challenge. I don't mind shooting in all weather conditions. It's just when I want to make a video on the shoot it becomes difficult. 😁
Thanks, I'm reporting to the result.
Love your photos but 1/2 hour vid of the English Chanel is quite nice!!! F90X cold horrible weather B&W film whats not to like.
Often get kind of dull negatives, a lot of gray....have to start thinking when i develop the film...
under developed or not enough developer or exhausted developer. If under exposed often possibly a metering or camera issue.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss hmm....guess i have some testing to do...possibly my camera
@@bjornstefansson2618 if you're sure your developing is good then yes check your camera and light meter.
Where did you get the test strip machine?
It's an old jessops make. I found it in a school that was selling darkroom Gear off
How are you able to make a 60 second print?
Tell me more?
Why not go to a 1 1/2 or 1 filter?
Your exposure times are through the roof. I was printing on small 5x7" paper, my exposure times were 3 seconds at f16...
My bulb wattage is low.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss I assume lower watt bulbs allow for more accuracy when printing
👍🏻
If you want to lighten the print a fraction, or parts of it, you could try Farmer's Reducer. Peter Elgar has a video on it: ruclips.net/video/E4dS75Lt3-w/видео.html