DIY Wax Injector for Lost Wax Casting | RTV Silicone Mold Making
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- Опубликовано: 1 авг 2024
- In this video I go over my process for making a wax injection mold without the use of an expensive wax injection machine. Molds like this are great for creating wax copies for lost wax casting. The idea for this kind of wax injector comes from the VegOilGuy:
• SIMPLE homemade WAX IN...
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** Tools and materials used **
Meat Injector Syringe - ebay.us/INrCg7
2-Part Freeman Clear RTV Silicone - ebay.us/xpih0L
Mold Frame - ebay.us/Os7oqH
Freeman Flakes Purple 1 Lb Injection Melting Wax - ebay.us/CP9G6o
Ferris Hard Green Carving Wax - ebay.us/BHisrA
Castaldo Jewelry Mold Release Spray - ebay.us/9KYDuk
5 Gallon Vacuum Chamber - ebay.us/VTAM4t
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** Video Gear Used **
PANASONIC LUMIX LX10 - ebay.us/ORzbjV
DISCLAIMER: This video and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. 
Развлечения
The bent fork!! That is GENIUS! I am pretty new to the jewelry making world but I have had to cut open a few silicon molds and they have always seemed like monsters! It's so hard to hold the mold open, see what you are doing and cut accurately at the same time. But having a third hand to hold it open for you would make things so much easier. Definitely using that!
Thank you! I wish I could claim that tip as my own but I saw someone else using it (my apologies for not remembering who) and it has definitely helped with opening up my molds!
Cover the mould in talcum powder .I still dnt use a vacuumed chamber .and glass syringes that hold the heat are available for the wax on internet .vet .peace .a turkey baster .lol
Some surgeon probably came up with the idea, because it looks like a tiny retractor.
I love your technique and that you give the average person some confidence that we all don't have to go spend hundreds of dollars for professional equipment. A little ingenuity, forethought and daring and it all came out as good or better than the professionals! You make it look easy! Thanks for the great videos!!! Keep 'em coming!!
Thank you so much! I really appreciate it. 😃
Cool! I like what you did there. I made one with a modified *Solder Sucker* with leather glued around the aluminum syringe. I used it to inject green carving wax into silicone molds from a ladle on a spare burner electric hot plate.
This is fantastic! I love the idea of using a meat marinade tool for your injection and the bent fork was a total game changer. Great ideas and use of inexpensive tools to get a job done! Also, a tip to keep your molds from spreading while injecting: use a washer between the mold and the injector. keeps the tip from spreading the mold apart!
Beautiful demonstration! Thanks for sharing
Thank you for watching! :)
C'est exactement ce je voulais connaître comme procédé de moulage. Bravo et merci. Je m'abonne.
Awesome work 👌 Great videos to watch and very nice craftsmanship!
Thank you! Much appreciated 🙏
Thank you i have learnt lots watching this!
This looks awesome, congrats on this
Thank you 🙏😊
Thank you for this helpful tutorial! And i love the bent fork, also a good idea :)
Excelent!!! Thanks for the video!!
love the fork. thanks, might steal that :)
Very nice man, thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
Great presentation, as well as being very relaxing due to your pleasant voice and speaking style. You may not be a pro mold maker, but you are definitely a pro-level content creator and artist.
Thank you so much. I really appreciate that 🙏
Aaaahaaaa now I can inject the wax into the mold. I just started experimenting with pouring wax into a mold and it cures far too quickly with just regular pouring . I'm going to get one of s/s basting syringes. Excellent idea. Thanks
Thank you for watching! I'm glad it helped :D
Thanks
from 5:50, the clear aspect for cutting, plus your stating it seems clear! I watched but must have been thinking!
I wrote you too many comments I think. Please don't let it bother you. Thanks.
No worries! 👍
Nice video thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
I've found that warming the two parts of the mix in a plastic cup in warm water before combining & mixing ,gives air bubbles a better chance to get out. Also pre coating the item with a brush helps stop bubbles sticking to the item
Great tips! Thank you 👍
@@GraceNoteForge And......letting the mold cure overnight in a refrigerator will allow bubbles to release and float up.
Nice 👍 technic
Thank you 🙏
Merci pour votre vidéo 🙏😎
🙏😁
Really cool! I just learned about wax carving today and was wondering if you could use regular platinum silicones such as Mold Star to make molds. Monster clay is kind of expensive here so I thought about buying ferris wax to try it out instead.
Ferris wax seems to work really well for mold making in my experience :) Thanks for watching!
La manufactura del molde hecho con materiales usados para reparar llantas,tiene mejores propiedades quenis pueden servir.El hule convencional de vulcanizado para los rodamientos lo venden en placas enrrolladas,asi se recortan las necesarias,y al colocarlas en el molde s vulcanizar se van colocando asta llegar a poner el modelo a coiar:entonces se coloca el vevedero de inyeccion y la pieza a copiar,entonces con una borla de algodon se lubrica el hule con talco,cuidando no tocar el modelo,despues colocanos el complemento del hule,cuidando aplicarle el talco necesario,esto es con la finalidad que al vulcanizar NO se funda con la otra mitad y se vulvaniza..Seguramente se va a separar las 2 partes muy facilmente.Si se deses obtener una copia mas grande.....entonces vulcanize unos 10 minutos mas del usual,para prevenir se disuelva el molde;Se ahoga el molde en petroleo durante 24hs,el mismo se incha aumentando de tamaño asta 500/100,entonces se cuela parafina obteniendo una copia mas grande.proceso "jonapru",es libre intentelo.
How did you cut the mold to make the loop? I can’t picture how that works without ripping the wax apart. Could you do a demo? Thank you for the video, very well done!
nice!
Thank you 😊
Great video. What do you do to clean/de wax the metal syringe once you have finished ?
Great videos, clear and inspiring.
What I would love to know is did you manage to de-mould the leaf without beaking the delicate stem piece?
With that in mind, do you thing there is an argument for making the mould from the first metal one off produced instead??
Thank you so much! Unfortunately I did end up breaking the stem when demolding the original piece but thankfully the mold turned out just fine!
You could absolutely make a mold off of the first casting but the only problem is you run the risk of destroying all the work you put into the piece if that casting doesn't go well the first time (which has happened to me on more than one occasion 😅)
You sound like Hank from corner gas show.
coooooooooool
The silicone rubber mold can you used mor than one time without detorsion or my destroyed insid mold due heat wax destroy mold wall
That was really excellent! I can't wait to see if you cast any in metal. I love the clear aspect. I want to start with that, to enjoy seeing the process of the wax seeping in, to also observe about sprues. The Freeman website is a treasure trove! Thanks for all the other links too! You made this look doable! Te leaf design reminds me of the elegance of Rivendell.
After thought: I wonder if a toaster oven with a wire fixture on a tray would help to keep the baster warm? If you wanted to buy a ready to go PID controller, you could plug the crock pot and the oven or any other things (analog or non-programmable burnout oven?) into a multi-circuit one (BBQ teams use these too) Then you get control of any processes if you add thermocouples (you then get repeatability too, due to temp readouts) Have you ever used silicone (baking?) gloves? Can't thank you enough!
Thank you so much! I've noticed that the clear silicone definitely helps with demolding pieces and even seeing areas where vents need to be added. I didn't end up making a casting video for this one but I have pictures of the final piece on my Facebook page.
I used to use a home made burnout oven with a programable PID controller but one day the thermocouple ended up failing and I almost set my garage on fire... I've since purchased a professional kiln (for safety reasons) but I have been thinking about making a wax injection machine from scratch, using a lot of the same parts and probably some added safety features this time... 😅
@@GraceNoteForge Hi! You say a lot of interesting things :) I realize you might mean clear molds can help a person learn how to cut molds. That would be really helpful! I hadn't thought of that lol I'm not on FB. But I see other casting videos you made I want to watch.
i understand about the burnout oven. So many aspects there. I love redundancies in control equipment. Safeties all around. We're talking temps hot enough to make wire turn to liquid. I quickly start to think of having a PE design one or more versions and give me stamped plans I can build or have built to specs... have built maybe after the first one. Burnout ovens and melting furnaces use the same basic principles it seems; It might be feasible for the same engineer to meet most needs easily. An artisan could use a bank of ovens and several furnaces if the projects required them; esp if added over time from standard-dimension material.
I just bought a tiny Swest injector for $140. It's being shipped. I went through the process of considering them ( this video was part of that) I'm new to this! I identified for me, acquiring or creating the injector nozzle was hardest, and those cost $111 on Romanoff (cheaper elsewhere no doubt) and the things add up from there. And Swest's machine is tested and tweaked from experience and is or was made to insurable standard, and made here in the US. Building stuff can quickly mean buying overseas and I wish to starve the Asian monster as much as possible and invest my dollars here at home as much as possible. So in the end, it's heat related, with pressure, and if your nozzle seal blows, what happens to someone nearby? If I did build, I would seriously consider the double boiler or water-jacket approach. It's more wu-wei lol you can do it with a small pressure cooker, even maybe the smallest instant pot with a modified lid and 'wax crucible in water bath' inside...a vessel within a vessel. What do you think of that? lol (a small pressure vessel secured in water in a crock pot is a version, but lacks a PID if not original to the crock pot, but for wax, not critical?) I'd be happy to talk more! My question is what muscles of creativity are you trying to exercise by building your own? If I watch your channel more, I may learn that answer more :)
Can I ask you: how thick do you like your molds? Your Castaldo mold frame there is 3/4" for final mold thickness? Do you have several sizes? Otherwise the frame measures 1 7/8 w ID by 6" tall with a wall thickness of 1/4"? Do you use a 1/8" D sprue rod? I hope you don't mind my asking. I'm thinking of making my first mold frames from AL bar stock lol I have tons of thick plexi. I might even u-groove some to interconnect with a frame. I see this "comment "is super long. I really appreciate your time! I hope to watch more! I may just say thank you and not comment as much lol I wish you a great day!
@@GraceNoteForge so the afterthought is, are you going to 3D design your own nozzle, cast it and have it machined? lol ??? :)
Hi! I was wondering how you remove the silicone mold - once it's set - from the frame without damaging the cone-shaped opening and wax sprue?
Do you mind sharing what kind of wax you used for the copies?
Hi Josiah, love the video! can I ask where you bought the mould holder? is it acrylic pieces that hold the mould when using the vacuum? also, does that injector give enough pressure for good moulds?
I really want to try this as the silicone will have no shrinkage and don't want to invest in a proper injection machine right now 😊
Thanks in advance.
Martin
Thank you! I got mine from a local supplier but if your search for "RTV mold frames", there are plenty of options for buying online.
They normally come with two acrylic plates and either clamps or rubber bands to hold them tight to the frame (the silicone is really viscous so it doesn't leak out).
As for the wax injector, I think it definitely gives enough pressure but since its done by hand, you kind of need to get a feel for how hard to press. With some practice though, you can get some great quality injections.
Best of luck with your mold making, Martin!
👍👍
U live in MI huh? I remember farmer ass cracks 🤣 then Kroger bought them out
Hello, thanks for the video, tell me please, I do not quite understand why a metal syringe is better than a plastic one?
A metal syringe works better in my experience because its more durable and it holds heat for a longer period of time after being taken out of the pot. Which is nice because you don't have to rush to inject the wax like you would with a plastic syringe.
What temprature should the casting wax be?
(I'm working in celcius)
😊
Hey great video what do you recommend to do to fix the small trapped air in the thin areas so the wax model is complete ?
Thank you! I try to adjust the speed, pressure and temperature of the wax first. Sometimes all that is needed is holding the mold up at an angle to let the wax reach those areas better. But if its still giving me trouble, cutting away a little relief for the air bubbles to escape normally does the trick.
Personally, I try to do everything I can to make the mold work as is first because cutting vents into the mold will give you more wax to clean up in the end.
@@GraceNoteForge thanks a lot
Could you make a video on how to cut vents ?
@@certifiedhassan8084 that's a great idea! I'll try and record the process the next time I have to vent one of my molds. 🙂
How long did the wax take to cure? anyone?
No need to use the wire to vent. Make and cut mold to release the pattern. Slightly bend the mold, inside toward you or slightly bend over a round surface while cutting a fine blade slit, 1/8" deep, from the pattern to an outside edge. SLIGHTLY
Where do you get those aluminium mould frames?
I get mine locally from Armstrong Tool Supply (armstrongtoolsupply.com/)
What type of tip is connected to the syringe?
It's a stainless steel tip that came with the syringe.
would a soldering iron work on waxes versus a wax pen?
It should work fine. I recommend one with an adjustable temperature control if you can get one.
@@GraceNoteForge thanks. do you know a discord for sculpting or mold making? i have so many questions, i can't seem to get enough help.
If i make a 3D resin ring positive on a 3D printer, can't i make a negative mold of same? My goal is to avoid casting using torch fired metal but making a 3D printed mold and precious metal clay? Say precious metal clay sliver hardens in a 3D mold then i place it into an investment clay straight to kiln firing much safer!!
Hy where can i buy one pot the same to yours
I found mine at Walmart for $10 if memory serves me. 🙂
Your RTV mould has to much air, resulting in many air bubbles. You should put the mould into a vacuum chamber (preferably with vibro) for couple of minutes before it solidifies. It will remove all the air bubbles.
I tried that but ended up hitting a bit of a snag with my vacuum chamber (I explain that at 5:30). Thankfully none of the air bubbles were on the surface of the model so the mold still works great!
@@GraceNoteForge Otherwise, a very good job
@@kwidzius Thank you
@@GraceNoteForgeExcellent video! Standard procedure for making silicone molds, btw, is to degass the silicone in the vacuum chamber BEFORE pouring it into the mold box. That would have eliminated the bubbles without having to put the mold box into the chamber and encountering the tight fit.
@@karllautman Vacuum the mix before pouring, pour mold, vacuum poured mold again to make absolutely sure all internal voids fill with mold material. A typical RTV mix will rise once during the initial vacuuming and not rise anywhere near as much during the mold degassing.
I'm getting a mould made for a pendant I'd like to make. I have no idea what I'm doing and I don't know why I'm watching this 😭 I'm so confused.
... first put the pot of the mixing silicone in the machine... then pour it into the mold.. not the other way.
Whats investment plaster use you
I'm using Ransom and Randolph SC20 Investment.
@@GraceNoteForge can this buy india
@@Bokan. I believe they ship internationally, so you should be able to buy it. 👍
Can you do me a favour and measure the main o-ring on the plunger please (Internal diameter and outer diameter), I wrecked mine and stupidly threw them without measuring, so can't use it any more till I can find the sizes to order a few dozen spares :)
For your issues with air getting trappen in your previous moulds. Take a scalpel blade, and make 4 thin cuts on each half of the mould (1mm deep is enough), leading from the pattern to the outside of the mould. Then bend the silicone so the cut pulls wide and add some talc to them. This will keep the air channels open, but not allow any wax to fit :) I do that technique with every mould, and it helps 100% of the time :) When I start to get air trapped again, I just bend it open again, and add more talc to the cuts.
Give it a try with one of your old moulds and you'll instantly see the issue resolved
For your crock pot, I use a similar idea, but i use a secondary container inside the crockpot, and fill around it with water. That way I can regulate the temperature more precisely, as I can add cold water to cool it down a bit if it's overhot.
For moulding that kinda size object, I use the cheapest possible silicone rubber sheets from castaldo (far east they're called and £10 for 1KG!) www.cousinsuk.com/product/silicone-strips-far-east and a couple of steel plates that i've drilled holes in, and used bolts with wingnuts to hold the frame in, which is then cooked in the kiln for 100 mins at 143C. This works just as well as an expensive vulncaniser would do, but cost tons less :) Hit me up on instagram if you want me to share some pics, ideas on it, could be helpful for your stuffs. It's novice_artisan
Thank you for the tips! I'll have to give them a try. I'd love to measure that o-ring for you but it's currently encased in wax 😅 (I should have taken it out of the pot). I'll try and measure it when I do more injections later today. I already follow you on Instagram, you do some great work!
@@GraceNoteForge thanks dude 🤘 Yeah, leaving it in wax all the time, and mega overuse is probably what wiped my seals out 😂 Making those charity tokens I go through at least 3-4 plastic syringes per 100 successful waxes haha They just can't handle the wax. Apparently nitrile rubber seals are the better kind to use than those that come with that steel injector. I'll message you some pics of what I mean about the moulds on insta :)🤘
Why not just print it in a castable resin?
Because I really enjoy carving wax by hand on some projects. 😁
seems a lot safer to making copies with real wax in a mold rather than using a SLR 3D printer which are dangerous. Also I'd imagine it's easier to cut mold vents than numerous 3D print supports every time you need a copy.
Also if you 3D printed your design once, you could spend lots of time cleaning up support marks and printing lines, and then make copies from your master, which would need less cleaning up in the future.
look at "riggers gloves" welding gloves to thick
Watch Robert Tolone to learn from a Professional!
He's got some great videos! Thanks
What name items use
I have links to the items used in the video description 😁
@@GraceNoteForge thanks bro 😁
I like your videos
@@Bokan. thank you! I appreciate it 🙏
@@GraceNoteForge 😊