As a Rc pilot, and builder, this hurt my soul on so many levels lol. I love seeing how people approach this hobby. You’re not wrong As long as you are having fun.
Dayum..it's been years and this is the first video I've actually genuinely found so interesting. Talking about electronics, cheap store craft items into inventions..learning curve with explanation and summary at the end without making u fall asleep. Good job Jake! Want to see more like this from u. :)
The part that holds the prop is called a "collet". It's especially funny that you said, "I'm not even quite sure what to call it.." which sounds exactly the same as "collet", you can see how it's especially funny when I fully outline the comedic humor. As for everything else you said about control surfaces and aerodynamics was almost exactly backwards. Like the effect their movement has, their names, etc. But seriously, thank you for showing that this is seriously easier than most people think and sometimes just getting to building is more important than fully understanding where you may end up 😊
@@SayaialahBeliauso you continue to ask irrelevant political questions when we come here to learn and forget about the brutality of reality and war. Have you donated to Palestine yet?
I have done the same thing. Foam Gliders come in two sizes. a little one 12 - 14 in WS and the big one about 48 in WS. I put all radio gear inside, this is for aerodynamic smoothness. I power the planes with the self contained .049 reed valve & .51Port Timed, engines. Just two channels, Ail & Elv or Rudder and elv. Quart of Fuel Fly all afternoon.
This is such a great way to get into flying for dirt cheap. Anyone that tries this and wants to graduate to building their own plane with foam board, I highly recommend Flite Test's speedbuild kits. They also sell power packs which are a more expensive but much higher quality version of what you get in that amazon kit. I just built their mighty mini sportster and it works great.
I bought a very similar glider (same fuselage but swept back wings) to use for my first homemade R/C plane a few years ago. I even made many of the same mistakes. My advice: Get two more servos to add ailerons (so worth it!) and add wing spars to prevent that massive wing flex. Happy flying!
A lot of people are complaining that It’s not the same channel anymore but its amazing how they’re making the same style videos great work to TKOR i always loved the content
The second you choose elevons I knew you were un trouble. I have done this a few times. I would suggest instead if trimming the control surface, if your remote has it, program in exponential into it. Exponential will smooth the center yet allow deflection out to the exteemes. If you don't have this, wou could adjust the holes that the servo connects to the push rod thus limiting the angles. I prefer expo settings because i find it much easier to dial in and still have extreme control on the end in case you need to make a last minute correction its nice to have that last bit ofbextra control. You did a good job. They are fun once you get some practice in.. if you turn too steep and are going too slow, one wing will stall and it will fall from the sky. To prevent this, don't turn while going up, and maintain good speed in the turn. Most crashes are caused by this issue. Probably 90% of crashes are caused while turning too steep with not enough airspeed. It even happens in large airplanes. So keep it moving in a turn, and don't climb and turn unless its a very shallow turn and you have good speed. Good luck. I hope these tips help.
You know, these days out of the box, ready-to-fly, airplanes with an included transmitter are relatively inexpensive. Cheap beginner's two channel (throttle and turning) can be had for around $25. Three channel (throttle, elevator, and turning) can be found for around $40. And full four channel control planes (throttle, rudder, elevator, and ailerons) can be found for around $80. And all of the above include built-in gyro and accelerometer automatic stabilization systems, making it very easy for beginners to learn to fly them. If it looks like you're heading for a crash, just let go of the sticks and these planes will quickly and automatically level themselves.
Weirdly I was doing the exact same thing last month and used that smaller red glider. Can confirm it's too small for those heavy motors and battery. Well done! Building my own now from foam board.
I've been flying for 20 plus and recently picked up that fly sky radio, I've paid 400+ for Spektrum radios that didn't even come with a receiver and they didn't have as much functionality as the $50 fly sky. Helicopter/drone/airplane I can fly my whole hanger with that one radio and spare receiver's are $10-$15 instead of $100+ for spektrum receivers. If you are considering just do it. 👍
When I was a kid late 80's early 90's you were a genius converting this glider to r/c lol it's basically the same glider, except they were $2 and literally in every single store. We didn't have micros, or brushless or lithium then.
For a novice pilot, that was a great performance. The trick to fly large planes is to throttle up when making a turn because you'll lose airspeed and altitude and keep the angle of the bank as low as possible and straighten out as soon as possible. Any time the plane banks, you lose lift. Steep banks need to be as short as possible to preserve lift. Large gliders are perfect for this kind of project because of their large wing area. More lift, more carrying capacity but also more drag so you'll need a powerful motor and a suitable propeller. You can make anything fly as long as it has a large enough airfoil. Aileron control isn't ideal for this kind of plane for the reason mentioned before. You can still have ailerons but you need an elevator. You can bank into a turn but need that elevator up a bit to keep the nose level. The hardware is good, but not perfect. A motor with a higher KV rating and a better propeller couldn't hurt. The plane kinda struggled to gain airspeed and altitude. You need more _punch_ to get that plane zooming. Lastly, drag is a big issue with airplanes. Ideally you'd want to hollow out the hull and stuff everything inside to eliminate unnecessary drag. Very nice project. Oh, and make sure the battery and esc have the same connector lol. I saw you got a battery with an XT60 connector which originally didn't match the esc.
It was cool to watch your journey into RC aircraft from not knowing what to do all the way to getting something that flew. Congrats! It's difficult to judge based on a short video, however I really think your plane was tail heavy. By trimming your rudder and elevator you removed the weight which made it fly so much better. I recommend anyone interested in RC flight seek out your local flying field and ask for help to get started. Crashing is part of the hobby, however a good instructor can help you crash less and enjoy flying more. Good luck and hope you continue enjoying the hobby.
Maybe it would fly better if you would keep the banking control flaps but just move them backwards but keep them as far from each other because it would be easier controlling with banking controls
hell yeah!!!!.... for everyone who reads this those types of foam gliders are very hard to glue to and break easy look for lidl gliders unless you wanna wait for glue to dry this is the way
Ah, the flysky-i6 with receiver included. It supports S-BUS for telemetry sensors such as voltage, barometer, accelerometer etc. Very good starter kit and super affordable, anyone can pick up one of these. It was my first controller and works well. I recently got a radiomaster TX16S to use ELRS. Very expensive controller but fully programmable and open source. ELRS is the way forward.
I bought a cheap 2 channel rc plane from harbor freight back in highschool for $30, removed all electronics and installed them on the same glider and flew great, was a bank and yank setup but was very simple, lightweight, and cheap. Prob spent maybe $50 in total and still have it to this day for nostalgia but still flys great.
Also, those FlySky controllers are really touchy due to the springs in the controller gimbals. You can turn down the effectiveness of the controls and make it less sensitive in the center of the control gimbal through the “dual rates and expo” setting. I’d try it at 70 percent rate and 45 percent expo. Great video, certainly did better than I did with my first RC plane, which was DIY too. I had 4 controls, throttle aileron elevator rudder. It would’ve worked if I’d known my ailerons were reversed! The first control configuration was interesting, might’ve worked better if the “flapperons” had been placed closer to the outboard ends of the wings. And for “control horns” instead of using foam braced with plastic, balsa wood or expired gift/credit cards will work well.
I believe on the flying wing the yaw is accomplished by the ailerons actually splitting with the upper edge going up and the lower edge going down creating greater drag on that side of the wing. Then they can act normally for roll control.
Another great resource for getting into the hobby is the Flite Test YT channel! I learned a ot from them when I first got into the hobby. Great video by the way!
Hi King of Random, for someone who grew up in model rc aviation, it really excited me to see your video on converting a foam chuck glider into an rc model and trying the hobby out😊 I have some advice that can help with improving the flight characteristics of your model plane. I've noticed that the wings on the model didn't quite have enough reinforcement to the wing which it caused the wing to flex during the video, when you have a lot of flex in the wing it can some times cause the wing itself to fold and crash on heavy wing loading from fast air speed in its current state, if you reinforced the wing with a bit of carbon fiber rode it will be able to handle the power of the motor on you model better and it will have a better preference during flight. Anyway, I wish you the best of luck the plane
Actually this would fly fine with no reinforcement, it just needs to be much, much lighter. A motor about half to 2/3rds the weight, a much smaller 2S battery and a slightly bigger propeller. These were flown way back in 2001 with GWS's 130 direct drive motors, the IPS A drive motor spinning a 3"x2" propeller and basic Hitec micro servos and a tiny 250 mAh nicad battery pack. They shouldn't weigh more than 7 to 8 oz. You want them to fly slowly.
Hi great vid. A few things that might help you here is experimenting with dual rates and expo which will help make the controls less sensitive until you gain more experience. Also using a lower kv motor will give a plane like this a LOT more thrust so maybe have a look into that. Otherwise great vid as always 👍👌
Hi im a avgeek here if i were you i would put your servo on rhe bottom and utilize alerons( what u were calling flaps) supposed to rudder control this would allow more response to steering Also flaps are a extra control surface designed to create more lift at a slower speed used for take off and landing So im total there are normally 7 control surfaces
Just as a historical note: When RC-Groups' forum was known as the E-Zone, there was a "Dirt Cheap Indoor Flyer" thread in the Parkflyers sub. It was basically the Life-Like Sky-Rider swept wing chuck glider which looks remarkably like the big glider you're building and flying, except that the wings sweep back at about 23 degrees, converted to RC in nearly the same way. So this was back in 2001, more than 22 years ago, and the RC converion set up was a pair of Hitec HS-55 micro servos at about 7 grams each, a Castle Creations Pixie 7 ESC, and the 130 sized brushed indoor power system motor that Grand Wing Servo company sold as a direct drive motor for their 3"X 2" DD propellers. All run off a 250 mAh 7 cell nicad battery pack. AUW of about 7 to 8 oz. depending on the battery. I built 2 and still have the 2nd one I built. What I did differently was use a rewound CD-Rom drive from a laptop, ( they're smaller than the 20mm endbell standard CD/DVD drive motors and they weigh about the same as the IPS motor..) powered by a Castle Creations Phoenix 10, a GWS 4"X 3.5" propeller and an early Kokam 340 2S Lipoly. In my testing the motor and prop pulled about 1.3 amps and spun the propeller at about 11K rpm. Very efficient and more thrust compared to the GWS brushed motor. I have some thoughts about your model. If you had gone with a 2S, 900 to 1200 mAh pack you could have run that motor with a bigger propeller and gotten more efficient thrust and longer run times. These Styrofoam bead gliders have a longer life if they're kept really light and they fly slower which is a great thing for a beginner like yourself. Don't glue the wings in, put a couple dots of Velcro on either of the root ends so they stay attached firmly enough to handle flight loads, but can pop off when you nose in at speed. Which is the other problem, this glider should be flying at about 5 to 7 mph, at most a jog also keeping it below 250 grams if you're flying at some place other than a RC model field. Light and slow works best. I also make Phoenix RC simulator aircraft models, I have a simulated version of my Life-Like Sky Rider RC chuck glider conversion in RC Groups forum in the Simulator forum, the big thread for Phoenix user made models. Your transmitter will work with Phoenix if you have the data cable that also doubles your TX as a joystick. Could have saved you some trouble and crashing to get your brain/hands coordinated on a sim.
Wow so coincidentally I used a very similar electronics pack from Amazon as well. I put it in an airplane and it flew well. It’s amazing seeing a newbie to the hobby learning, trying, and getting it to work. You did a fantastic job bro. It’s nice watching TKOT again, it’s been years and y’all still be doin it!
I second this. My grandad was fixing his airplane and it randomly started up. It cut into his arm and was millimeters away from cutting an artery and killing him. Another time he lost part of his ring finger.
Great Job on the model, I have been in RC for years and have converted many chuck gliders to RC. That 2200 mAh battery would have worked fine you would have just had to adjust the C of G. Longer flight times vs lower performance basically. Nice job again!
Another note: Taping the ESC to a foam (thermal insulator) surface is a bad idea. It's better to use self adhesive Velcro loop dots and hot glue the Hook dots to the glider fuselage. You want a full flow of air around the ESC to keep it cool especially with an 11 volt pack. Same thing with the battery. Mount both on the top of the fuselage! Setting your wings with upsweep at the ends ( dihedral ) will make for an easier to control model, as you only have to have the elevator and rudder for control. The mixing of the flaperon, (... as you have this planned...) is going to be a mess and will act backwards from what you're expecting. Rudder and elevator are all that you need, run the rudder servo from the aileron channel.
Use a 2000kv 3 blade prop at 3s, use one servo for roll,and the other for pitch, you'll have better success. Advanced users should use a flight controller.
Fun to see the problem solving. Curious if you reached out to the guys over at FliteTest? I know they were pretty good friends with Grant and have rocked TKOR merch on their channel every once in a while.
0:44 I had one of these and was in the process of adding carbon fiber support to it when the foam broke and prevented me from completing that project. Any glue I used melted the styrofoam. The really neat part was I had made it into a “T tail” configuration (like the F-104 Starfighter)
@@TheKingofRandom That was the first glue type I tried! I guess my hot glue gun was designed to use a hotter temperature. I would apply the glue and push it together. After 90 seconds, I would release my grip only for it to fall apart, with a hole where the glue had been.
Back in my day, we used to insert empty ballpen plastic mines (refills) wherever we needed wires to go through or along. Those tubes are criminally underrated for so many applications.
As a Rc pilot, and builder, this hurt my soul on so many levels lol. I love seeing how people approach this hobby. You’re not wrong As long as you are having fun.
Can you give your tips to us noobs pls
Haha same here I am I rc pilot and a builder this was kinda painful
@@PatricioGonzalezCabrera some of my best advice would be to watch Flitetest
@@AlecPhillipsIII Likewise! lol
Then tell me how to fix it plz @@AlecPhillipsIII
Dayum..it's been years and this is the first video I've actually genuinely found so interesting. Talking about electronics, cheap store craft items into inventions..learning curve with explanation and summary at the end without making u fall asleep. Good job Jake! Want to see more like this from u. :)
The part that holds the prop is called a "collet". It's especially funny that you said, "I'm not even quite sure what to call it.." which sounds exactly the same as "collet", you can see how it's especially funny when I fully outline the comedic humor.
As for everything else you said about control surfaces and aerodynamics was almost exactly backwards. Like the effect their movement has, their names, etc. But seriously, thank you for showing that this is seriously easier than most people think and sometimes just getting to building is more important than fully understanding where you may end up 😊
The best set-up for this since it's belly landing is to have a prop-saver adapter on the outrunner
Now THIS is the type of content I’ve been waiting for!!
Thanks!
This fulfills TKOR's legacy perfectly!
Continue making awesome videos! 👍
We’re gonna try!
@@TheKingofRandom thankyou
@@TheKingofRandom so...u guy r showing support to Ukraine..
@@SayaialahBeliauso you continue to ask irrelevant political questions when we come here to learn and forget about the brutality of reality and war. Have you donated to Palestine yet?
@@roonisgaming7885dude...i'm just want to know how the drone work...
I have done the same thing.
Foam Gliders come in two sizes. a little one 12 - 14 in WS and the big one about 48 in WS.
I put all radio gear inside, this is for aerodynamic smoothness. I power the planes with the self contained .049 reed valve & .51Port Timed, engines. Just two channels, Ail & Elv or Rudder and elv.
Quart of Fuel Fly all afternoon.
That’s awesome I definitely need to get my hands on an engine powered one sometime
As someone who's built and flown RC since the 80s this is so painful! Lol
This is such a great way to get into flying for dirt cheap.
Anyone that tries this and wants to graduate to building their own plane with foam board, I highly recommend Flite Test's speedbuild kits. They also sell power packs which are a more expensive but much higher quality version of what you get in that amazon kit. I just built their mighty mini sportster and it works great.
This looks awesome
Impressed with the concept. Outstanding.
I like the way your showing that you mess up and not making people believe its easy an perfect,
Everyone is a beginner at some point
I bought a very similar glider (same fuselage but swept back wings) to use for my first homemade R/C plane a few years ago. I even made many of the same mistakes. My advice: Get two more servos to add ailerons (so worth it!) and add wing spars to prevent that massive wing flex. Happy flying!
That’s my plan!
First time I was watch you Chanel . You do great .Attempt and fun with it .😅from rc lover
A lot of people are complaining that It’s not the same channel anymore but its amazing how they’re making the same style videos great work to TKOR i always loved the content
3:56 The most honest youtuber!
Can I just have my moment to say that Jake’s hair looks absolutely fabulous
The second you choose elevons I knew you were un trouble. I have done this a few times. I would suggest instead if trimming the control surface, if your remote has it, program in exponential into it. Exponential will smooth the center yet allow deflection out to the exteemes. If you don't have this, wou could adjust the holes that the servo connects to the push rod thus limiting the angles. I prefer expo settings because i find it much easier to dial in and still have extreme control on the end in case you need to make a last minute correction its nice to have that last bit ofbextra control. You did a good job. They are fun once you get some practice in.. if you turn too steep and are going too slow, one wing will stall and it will fall from the sky. To prevent this, don't turn while going up, and maintain good speed in the turn. Most crashes are caused by this issue. Probably 90% of crashes are caused while turning too steep with not enough airspeed. It even happens in large airplanes. So keep it moving in a turn, and don't climb and turn unless its a very shallow turn and you have good speed. Good luck. I hope these tips help.
Jake makes TKOR great again.
I feel much better about my first build now 😂
Bro is close to prime king of random with Nate and grant diy (rip grant) i love your content
Awesome video. Truly in the TKOR spirit.
Not even a minute in and I already love this vid lool
Cautiously optimistic that TKOR is back.. Great vid!
LETS GO THESE GUYS ARE BACK!!!!!!
I might have to give this a try
You know, these days out of the box, ready-to-fly, airplanes with an included transmitter are relatively inexpensive. Cheap beginner's two channel (throttle and turning) can be had for around $25. Three channel (throttle, elevator, and turning) can be found for around $40. And full four channel control planes (throttle, rudder, elevator, and ailerons) can be found for around $80. And all of the above include built-in gyro and accelerometer automatic stabilization systems, making it very easy for beginners to learn to fly them. If it looks like you're heading for a crash, just let go of the sticks and these planes will quickly and automatically level themselves.
Weirdly I was doing the exact same thing last month and used that smaller red glider. Can confirm it's too small for those heavy motors and battery. Well done! Building my own now from foam board.
Ah. With the first ctrl method, you need to have the surfaces go DOWN to bring the nose up...
Grant would be proud. Brings back the energy of peak TKOR. Taking fun diy projects to the next level with budget materials.
Put your "flaps" or ailerons as they are called on the wings, more towards the wing tips. It will give you most stable control on your roll.
Awesome direction for this channel. Grant would be ecstatic.
I've been flying for 20 plus and recently picked up that fly sky radio, I've paid 400+ for Spektrum radios that didn't even come with a receiver and they didn't have as much functionality as the $50 fly sky. Helicopter/drone/airplane I can fly my whole hanger with that one radio and spare receiver's are $10-$15 instead of $100+ for spektrum receivers. If you are considering just do it. 👍
Look into elrs is leagues better than any flysky junk will ever be and is just as budgetable
@@Brian-S you may call it junk but it's been nothing but great for myself. No need to look into anything else as it's working perfectly for my needs.
When I was a kid late 80's early 90's you were a genius converting this glider to r/c lol it's basically the same glider, except they were $2 and literally in every single store. We didn't have micros, or brushless or lithium then.
Those GIANT control horns pained me to my core, and the esc being deans tee and battery Xt60z
For a novice pilot, that was a great performance. The trick to fly large planes is to throttle up when making a turn because you'll lose airspeed and altitude and keep the angle of the bank as low as possible and straighten out as soon as possible. Any time the plane banks, you lose lift. Steep banks need to be as short as possible to preserve lift.
Large gliders are perfect for this kind of project because of their large wing area. More lift, more carrying capacity but also more drag so you'll need a powerful motor and a suitable propeller. You can make anything fly as long as it has a large enough airfoil. Aileron control isn't ideal for this kind of plane for the reason mentioned before. You can still have ailerons but you need an elevator. You can bank into a turn but need that elevator up a bit to keep the nose level.
The hardware is good, but not perfect. A motor with a higher KV rating and a better propeller couldn't hurt. The plane kinda struggled to gain airspeed and altitude. You need more _punch_ to get that plane zooming.
Lastly, drag is a big issue with airplanes. Ideally you'd want to hollow out the hull and stuff everything inside to eliminate unnecessary drag. Very nice project. Oh, and make sure the battery and esc have the same connector lol. I saw you got a battery with an XT60 connector which originally didn't match the esc.
Yeah lol I didn’t realize the connectors were different 😅 I ended up just cutting the wires and shoving them into the terminals
Tip stall is what you experienced, but great job brother! Keep them wings up!!
It was cool to watch your journey into RC aircraft from not knowing what to do all the way to getting something that flew. Congrats!
It's difficult to judge based on a short video, however I really think your plane was tail heavy. By trimming your rudder and elevator you removed the weight which made it fly so much better.
I recommend anyone interested in RC flight seek out your local flying field and ask for help to get started. Crashing is part of the hobby, however a good instructor can help you crash less and enjoy flying more. Good luck and hope you continue enjoying the hobby.
This is super cool and such an OG TKOR style of video. You should do an RC boat and RC car next.
To come back to TKOR after so long and really feel Grant's legacy is amazing. Rest in Piece Grant. Thank you for making science fun
Maybe it would fly better if you would keep the banking control flaps but just move them backwards but keep them as far from each other because it would be easier controlling with banking controls
The older thumbnail overlay thing modernized, nice
hell yeah!!!!.... for everyone who reads this those types of foam gliders are very hard to glue to and break easy look for lidl gliders unless you wanna wait for glue to dry this is the way
Ah, the flysky-i6 with receiver included. It supports S-BUS for telemetry sensors such as voltage, barometer, accelerometer etc. Very good starter kit and super affordable, anyone can pick up one of these. It was my first controller and works well. I recently got a radiomaster TX16S to use ELRS. Very expensive controller but fully programmable and open source. ELRS is the way forward.
I bought a cheap 2 channel rc plane from harbor freight back in highschool for $30, removed all electronics and installed them on the same glider and flew great, was a bank and yank setup but was very simple, lightweight, and cheap. Prob spent maybe $50 in total and still have it to this day for nostalgia but still flys great.
TKOR is back! Let'sss goooo!
You linked a Samm Sheperd video for the electronics. RIP Samm. Taken from us too soon. Such a great channel.
We appreciate you putting resources in the description for those who want to build their own!
Of course!
That's a cool project 😎
Adding some expo to your pitch and roll will help immensely
Also, those FlySky controllers are really touchy due to the springs in the controller gimbals. You can turn down the effectiveness of the controls and make it less sensitive in the center of the control gimbal through the “dual rates and expo” setting. I’d try it at 70 percent rate and 45 percent expo. Great video, certainly did better than I did with my first RC plane, which was DIY too. I had 4 controls, throttle aileron elevator rudder. It would’ve worked if I’d known my ailerons were reversed! The first control configuration was interesting, might’ve worked better if the “flapperons” had been placed closer to the outboard ends of the wings. And for “control horns” instead of using foam braced with plastic, balsa wood or expired gift/credit cards will work well.
This video was in the spirit of Grant. I think Jake is perfect for the job.
I believe on the flying wing the yaw is accomplished by the ailerons actually splitting with the upper edge going up and the lower edge going down creating greater drag on that side of the wing. Then they can act normally for roll control.
oh thats interesting
12:17 Absolutely iconic moment
What a great video, TKOR is back
Another great resource for getting into the hobby is the Flite Test YT channel! I learned a ot from them when I first got into the hobby. Great video by the way!
I'm not 100% on this.....but....you may have inadvertently stumbled into a spot quite near the top of my heroes list😅😂😂
These vedeos will definately go well back in the old days of youtube. I miss it
Hi King of Random, for someone who grew up in model rc aviation, it really excited me to see your video on converting a foam chuck glider into an rc model and trying the hobby out😊
I have some advice that can help with improving the flight characteristics of your model plane.
I've noticed that the wings on the model didn't quite have enough reinforcement to the wing which it caused the wing to flex during the video, when you have a lot of flex in the wing it can some times cause the wing itself to fold and crash on heavy wing loading from fast air speed in its current state, if you reinforced the wing with a bit of carbon fiber rode it will be able to handle the power of the motor on you model better and it will have a better preference during flight.
Anyway, I wish you the best of luck the plane
Actually this would fly fine with no reinforcement, it just needs to be much, much lighter. A motor about half to 2/3rds the weight, a much smaller 2S battery and a slightly bigger propeller. These were flown way back in 2001 with GWS's 130 direct drive motors, the IPS A drive motor spinning a 3"x2" propeller and basic Hitec micro servos and a tiny 250 mAh nicad battery pack. They shouldn't weigh more than 7 to 8 oz. You want them to fly slowly.
Keep going ❤ from India
I did this in the 80s with an 049 glow engine.
The channel takes a good turn now thank god
I've been building and flying all things RC for over twenty years..this video is equally entertaining and painful. Keep up the good work lol.
Lolll will do
Great video..
Reminds me of the older stuff👍👍
Buy an aeroscout, fly all summer😊
Hi great vid. A few things that might help you here is experimenting with dual rates and expo which will help make the controls less sensitive until you gain more experience. Also using a lower kv motor will give a plane like this a LOT more thrust so maybe have a look into that. Otherwise great vid as always 👍👌
Hi im a avgeek here if i were you i would put your servo on rhe bottom and utilize alerons( what u were calling flaps) supposed to rudder control this would allow more response to steering
Also flaps are a extra control surface designed to create more lift at a slower speed used for take off and landing
So im total there are normally 7 control surfaces
@Te_le_GRAM_YT_TKOR ur a scammer more than likely Soo no
Awesome! Thank you.
Very Cool. I would love to see a future video about building the glider from scratch.
That would be a great vid
Just as a historical note: When RC-Groups' forum was known as the E-Zone, there was a "Dirt Cheap Indoor Flyer" thread in the Parkflyers sub.
It was basically the Life-Like Sky-Rider swept wing chuck glider which looks remarkably like the big glider you're building and flying, except that the wings sweep back at about 23 degrees, converted to RC in nearly the same way.
So this was back in 2001, more than 22 years ago, and the RC converion set up was a pair of Hitec HS-55 micro servos at about 7 grams each, a Castle Creations Pixie 7 ESC, and the 130 sized brushed indoor power system motor that Grand Wing Servo company sold as a direct drive motor for their 3"X 2" DD propellers.
All run off a 250 mAh 7 cell nicad battery pack. AUW of about 7 to 8 oz. depending on the battery.
I built 2 and still have the 2nd one I built. What I did differently was use a rewound CD-Rom drive from a laptop, ( they're smaller than the 20mm endbell standard CD/DVD drive motors and they weigh about the same as the IPS motor..) powered by a Castle Creations Phoenix 10, a GWS 4"X 3.5" propeller and an early Kokam 340 2S Lipoly. In my testing the motor and prop pulled about 1.3 amps and spun the propeller at about 11K rpm. Very efficient and more thrust compared to the GWS brushed motor.
I have some thoughts about your model. If you had gone with a 2S, 900 to 1200 mAh pack you could have run that motor with a bigger propeller and gotten more efficient thrust and longer run times. These Styrofoam bead gliders have a longer life if they're kept really light and they fly slower which is a great thing for a beginner like yourself.
Don't glue the wings in, put a couple dots of Velcro on either of the root ends so they stay attached firmly enough to handle flight loads, but can pop off when you nose in at speed. Which is the other problem, this glider should be flying at about 5 to 7 mph, at most a jog also keeping it below 250 grams if you're flying at some place other than a RC model field.
Light and slow works best. I also make Phoenix RC simulator aircraft models, I have a simulated version of my Life-Like Sky Rider RC chuck glider conversion in RC Groups forum in the Simulator forum, the big thread for Phoenix user made models. Your transmitter will work with Phoenix if you have the data cable that also doubles your TX as a joystick. Could have saved you some trouble and crashing to get your brain/hands coordinated on a sim.
Finally an rc plane
Was waiting for this since 2012
Rip grant.
got hooked i love this video missed this channel i'm back
Wow so coincidentally I used a very similar electronics pack from Amazon as well. I put it in an airplane and it flew well. It’s amazing seeing a newbie to the hobby learning, trying, and getting it to work. You did a fantastic job bro. It’s nice watching TKOT again, it’s been years and y’all still be doin it!
Quick saftey tip. Dont assemble or test with the prop on. They do some damage when they decide to spin up unexpectedly😅😂
Lol seriously
I second this. My grandad was fixing his airplane and it randomly started up. It cut into his arm and was millimeters away from cutting an artery and killing him. Another time he lost part of his ring finger.
Awesome video. Great host
You fixed it, but not for the reason you think. Trimming the control surfaces removed tail weight which is what was excessive.
I forgot… great job !! You’re well on your way to becoming proficient at RC !! Keep it up !!
Thanks, will do!
Great Job on the model, I have been in RC for years and have converted many chuck gliders to RC. That 2200 mAh battery would have worked fine you would have just had to adjust the C of G. Longer flight times vs lower performance basically. Nice job again!
Definitely could have used a wing spar in there lol
Are you guys gonna use your freeze dryer ever again?Cause I want you to do gummy eyeballs
Wait a minute, is Jake _working_ for TKOR now?
Yep
@@TheKingofRandom WOOHOO!
Who’s Jake
Is it schlatt
Ahh so its official now? Cool welcome aboard! 😎👍
My foam V900 is coated with min wax and epoxy and testors paint.I just can't let it get ugly.
Another note: Taping the ESC to a foam (thermal insulator) surface is a bad idea. It's better to use self adhesive Velcro loop dots and hot glue the Hook dots to the glider fuselage. You want a full flow of air around the ESC to keep it cool especially with an 11 volt pack.
Same thing with the battery.
Mount both on the top of the fuselage!
Setting your wings with upsweep at the ends ( dihedral ) will make for an easier to control model, as you only have to have the elevator and rudder for control. The mixing of the flaperon, (... as you have this planned...) is going to be a mess and will act backwards from what you're expecting. Rudder and elevator are all that you need, run the rudder servo from the aileron channel.
You should try one of flite test models.
I was literally thinking of doing this this morning because i want a cheap rc beater lol.
Use a 2000kv 3 blade prop at 3s, use one servo for roll,and the other for pitch, you'll have better success.
Advanced users should use a flight controller.
Fun to see the problem solving. Curious if you reached out to the guys over at FliteTest? I know they were pretty good friends with Grant and have rocked TKOR merch on their channel every once in a while.
Waiting for a TKOR with PeterSripol avionics collab *fingers crossed*
That would be dope
It flies, but let's have some aesthetic, i.e. get the servo's internal, etc.
rudder control goes on the LEFT stick
Shhhhh no It goes wherever I want it
0:44 I had one of these and was in the process of adding carbon fiber support to it when the foam broke and prevented me from completing that project. Any glue I used melted the styrofoam. The really neat part was I had made it into a “T tail” configuration (like the F-104 Starfighter)
You try hot glue? I never had any problems gluing it back together. And i glued it back up a LOT loll
@@TheKingofRandom That was the first glue type I tried! I guess my hot glue gun was designed to use a hotter temperature. I would apply the glue and push it together. After 90 seconds, I would release my grip only for it to fall apart, with a hole where the glue had been.
The fact that I did this exact thing with this exact glider design over a year ago…
My uncle built me a gas powered 2 channel plane when I was a kid. We never did get any sustained flight with it.
An esc is a timer to time when to alternate the power on the brushless motor’s leads
Flaps down gives it lift, not making it nose dive like you said.
15:15 You mean will only take two hours, because it's not done yet.
I have a perfect area to try this too.
Back in my day, we used to insert empty ballpen plastic mines (refills) wherever we needed wires to go through or along. Those tubes are criminally underrated for so many applications.
oh thats genius
If Danny McBride and Ben Schwartz had a child. awesome
😂😂
They also make a kit for turning paper airplanes into remote control.
At 0:41, you are on a sloped roof... where Secret Service agents are too afraid to tread. You are so brave!
XD