I will be forever thankful for having Mr. Paul Sellers in my life. I have learned, and have confirmed from your teachings, that I'm not doing it all wrong. Still have lot to learn and will be always watching and learning.
Boeshield T-9 is glorious. I worked as a bicycle mechanic in a shore town rental facility on the southern tip of New Jersey. Rust was the bane of our existence, until we started using Boeshield. It comes in a liquid (drIp top bottle) that could be used to wet the rag in a can. Thank you as always! Fantastic information.
Paul, your Q&A are great ways for people to gain some insight. The Japanese learned many years ago that the craftsmen available to sharpen saws were disappearing. They slowly developed the newer razor saws and some are fabulous. They will crosscut or Rip depending on the saw chosen 1000's of times before having to replace the blade. I agree that we should be able to fine tune out tools ourselves is for nothing other than being able to continue to work at a task even when a tool needs sharpening. I have restored and passed on 100's of planes and it amazes me what people do not know about the fitting and maintenance of simple hand planes. Badly ground Irons, Filed or grounf Frogs and soles which ruined a tool. If you could touch base on the fact that Less is more when restoring tools until a person knows exactly how a tool functions and might need minor repair or modification. I think there are many people who get hung up on details. The best thing is when people just start making things and learning as they go. Simple projects are needed to develop confidence. If I could suggest some topics for Q&A are reading grain, available and affordable wood types for beginners and the principles of grain orientation. Wishing you all the best, Walter, aka Dusty Splinters.
Mr. Sellers we enjoyed it tremendously, just like every new episode you bring us with amazing info that takes out of the dark into a more reachable woodworking path. God bless you, and althoug we are not very good students, you are a wonderful teacher, tnx Mr. Sellers for sharing it with the world. :D
I love that Paul doesn't have a bias to any tool. To me it says any tool is a good tool if it does what you need it to do. I think a fancier set is still a treat to use after you've used a normal set for a good while.
Hey Paul, I appreciate your taking the time to answer my questions. I will look into your recommendations. I've also purchased silica packets to reduce the moisture.
Paul I really enjoy your QA series. Please continue at your convenience. Funny, I hear your voice when I read your "Essential Woodworking Hand Tools" book.
15:46 and the kink that goes "boing" in the saw blade, is caused by the metal being stretched. An example can be experienced by pressing a tin lid in and out in the centre. When the metal becomes stretched it will always pop in and out and won't remain straight in the centre again. The only cure for the saw blade would be to heat shrink it in the stretched area, which in turn would need re-tempering. As you said probably beyond economic repair and a new saw is the real answer. Great videos!
I enjoyed it immensely, Mr. Sellers. A lot of great information wrapped in a relatively short presentation. Thank you for doing this series. I've never understood the concern over using the oil rag can to lubricate a plane or saw. I understand that folks are worried about transferring the oil to the wood, but think about that for a second - aren't most stains and finishes oil based anyway? Even if a minute amount of oil did transfer over to the wood, it's most likely to be stained with an oil-based stain anyway, so what is the problem? Oh well.
Late comment, sorry, I just discovered these videos (great stuff!). I've used Boesheild T9 for years and when you first taught us about the oil tin, I used Boeshield to soak into the rag that I stuffed in the tin. Works great and lubricating the plane or saw is quick as a whip. Or wipe.
Been following this channel for years now and it’s truly been inspirational. And very practical, I might add ;-) Thank you so much, Mr. Sellers and “staff”, for sharing all this beauty. Finally subscribed too, by the way, apparently neglected to do so before :-s Kind greetings from Holland.
I live in FL the humidity is the problem not the heat. One option is store your tools in a chest with a desiccant such as Damp Rid. Be sure to wipe tools down with oil after use.
Hi Paul, love the show (should be on the BBC ) Any tips for planning end grain using a 9 1/2 block plane I am having issues with chatter and not getting a smooth finish?
I very much appreciate your videos.Mainly the intricacy of their explanations .life long and prosper to you.If i made a mistake in english please correct me i do appreciate
Love the Videos! I do have a question regarding planes; How often should i be sharpening the cutting iron? Maybe for reference like when working in thick quarter saw white oak. Thanks for your time and thanks for all the great content!
Paul - great videos - you always inspire me to get out the tools and get to work! Q: I live in a smaller apartment, with no shop -- only a balcony. How would you go about building a bench/workholding device for smaller spaces?
Thank you for answering my question about hand saws Paul, much appreciated and yes i am male :D Yes I was talking about a hand saw, I think my use of the word 'Spine' may have confused you but you did in fact answer my question perfectly as I suspected and even touched on another question I have forgotten to ask about the tenon saw. I will see if I can get a hacksaw blade to make a dent in the hand saw metal and if it doesn't work I will turn the metal from the saw into a couple of card scrapers and find myself another hand saw to recondition, there is no sentimental attachment to this saw so I won't be upset if I can't save it.
Hi Paul, I've seen your videos on self made tools like the rebate plane, poor man's router, beading tool, frame saw and I also observe you using a self made straight edge sometimes. What do you consider the most practical and what the most satisfying of such self made tools? Do you maybe have other examples that you could show briefly in a next q&a? Thank you very much for your inspiring videos!
For rust and humidity, one thing you can do to supplement the advice given, is to add silica gel packets in your tool cabinets. If you happen to know anybody who works in a shoe store or clothing store, they can easily grab you a bag full of these packets for free (they throw them away). Some companies sell silica gel packs specifically for tool boxes, but they're expensive.
Thanks for these videos! I am very much looking forward to them continuing. I read your blog post on the topic of planes with a corrugated sole. I agree with your points when it comes to the common plane sizes, but do you have the same thoughts when talking about larger planes such as #6 and #7 which are really dedicated to straight line work?
Excellent! Suggestion: next time please show how to tighten a loose lateral adjuster. I've a couple of planes with that issue. I've tapped and even hit the area with a hammer and steel punch. Nothing. Please please help.
Like you Paul I learnt as a boy with western saws and now find it very hard to get on with pull saws. I think there rise in popularity has come because they are far better quality than the mass produced hard point western saws. But much cheaper than western saw makers that remain now.
Hey Paul, I've recently begun to exercise my child hood passion for woodworking. A few years ago my grandfather passed and I am the only one in my family who has a love for woodworking and have inherited a great deal of old (possibly antique) hand tools. I have slowly started restoring some of these tools and have come across a RELIANCE Warranted 7/8 chisel that is 6 inches long. I really like this chisel as it is made of a very hard steel that holds its sharpness well, however there is a small twist in the chisel and would like to know what are some of the ways that this could be fixed. As these tools do hold some sentimental value I would like to get some feed back from someone who has more experience with these sort of things. Thanks!
Great video as usual Paul! I was wondering a more because of man of your age is which do you default to imperial or metric. I'm a 35 year old English bloke and I find I switch between the two.
Thanks for being such a great teacher! Here is my question regarding old heavily used auger bits: I have some old auger bits where the spurs are really badly filed down (by previous owners) to the point of almost not existing anymore. Is it possible/feasible to restore them?
Although he doesn't say it, he does demonstrate an advantage of the curved-spring cap iron over the beveled cap iron. 9:55 shows how the lever cap pressures the 'spring' to cause it to be flat to the blade. This wouldn't happen nearly as much to a beveled cap iron. Even if your cap iron is not flat it can be sprung flat by the lever cap.
Hi Paul. I have question for your next Q&A session. I've watched most, if not all of your videos and I can't remember you ever using a block plane. I was always taught that a block plane was perfect for end grain but you seem to use a number 4 plane for end grain. Do you use a block plane? Do you consider them useful for tasks other than planing end grain? Thanks.
Q&A question: When is it ok to use a saw designed for cross cutting to rip cut (and vice versa)? What are the disadvantages of using the wrong saw? How/why are some saws able to do both? Thank you.
You have a great show but when it comes to the letters you should ask your writers to add a photo of the item that trying to describe to you that you can show us and also you can see what's the problem that's going on And those items You so much for going to show You keep making more.
Hello Paul, Thank you for the videos. Since discovering your RUclips channel and then your website I have fallen in love with hand woodworking. I have made some very, very basic structual stuff. (butt or mitre "jointed") but soon I will have the time to really dive into the hand woodworking. And again thank you for all of the content you provide. I have three questions. First, as someone starting out what are the first two or three projects that you think I should look at making?? Second, I have kept a fairly close eye on second hand sites but have never seen an older wooden handled saw (or other tools) for less than £15 (roughly with postage). How should I be approaching this?? I really would like to restore a handsaw or two. And the third question is relating directly to the second. You mention the saw sharpening files but again (and it is most likely me looking wrong) I can't seem to find files that are the right ones. Could you shed some light on this for me?? Thank you again.
Hi. I would like to get your input as to whether I should get a card scrapper? Would it assist me it speeding up the finishing process? Do away with sand paper other than for polishing?
IF it helps, sand paper will always have a use in a shop, but between a well-set smoother and scrapers, you don't need to sand a majority of your work. End-grain, tight curves, and the like I still prefer to use sandpaper. That said, even in my hand tool shop, you'll never get me to drop my oscillating spindle sander :-p
Thanks for these. How tight do you make your cap iron? When I set mine to snap like yours, the depth adjustment nut becomes very difficult to turn. Is that normal?
Apart from one plane I have all set so that they snapp, yet are comfortable to adjust. If you find the blade moves around on you in use, it is too loose, otherwise it is tight enough. The one plane I can not seem to get this to work on I also have a Hock replacement blade in, not sure if this is the cause, but I just can not find one setting that works every time.
I use a lot of Japanese tools because I've had two accidents in a short period of time that damaged the tendons in my wrists so for me it is next to impossible to make a straight cut with a western style saw :| A friend of mine who is a cabinet maker saw me struggle and told me to use a Japanese saw. If it hadn't been for these I would not use a handsaw anymore... I like the No.4 Stanley a lot though :)
That seems to happen when starting the cut the same way you would with a push saw. Try starting at the near corner with the saw handle below the piece. The ships exit down and away then.
HI Paul, about lubricating the soul of plain I see often that even manufacturers recommend some type of hard wax for that for longer lasting (even candle wax based on paraffine) but for protecting against the rust (for iron and chip breaker) they recumbent jojoba oil or camellia oil. Is it worth of doing ? Do you have any experience with it ?
The old unhardened saws are more rare then hens teeth around here in Denmark. Is it possible to take the teeth of a modern plastic handle hardened saw and reform new teeth on them?
I have a question about using a hand plane. When using a power jointer i have seen the advice that you shouldn't joint both sides since that would cause both sides to not be parallel. Instead you should run it through a planer or cut off. The other side with a Tablesaw using the jointed side as the reference side. When using a hand plane if you planed both sides to make both sides flat would that cause the two sides to no longer be parallel? If yes what do you suggest for working on the side that you want to be parallel to the flattened side?
Paul's approach is to plan one side flat, set a marking gauge to the thinnest place on the board, mark all the way around the board using the flat face as reference, and then plane to the gauge line on the second side. Good idea to use winding sticks to ensure there is no wind in the board as you go.
thank you! I just bought a Stanley 151 Spokeshave. it keeps clogging up. Do I need to set it up like I did when I got my 1932 No.4 Plane? Any suggestions?
Same issue here! I love using it, but after four or five passes, it clogs up and won't shave any more. I even tried to "sharpen" the edge of the (I suppose it is also called the chip breaker) to help move the material out. No success!
I use Jojoba "oil" which is a wax really, on all my tools after use to prevent rusting, even on the band-saw table. Just dampen a material rag with it and rub it on. I find that finger prints rust fast... With warm humid weather (West Oz) rust will present after a day or so.
I will be forever thankful for having Mr. Paul Sellers in my life. I have learned, and have confirmed from your teachings, that I'm not doing it all wrong. Still have lot to learn and will be always watching and learning.
Boeshield T-9 is glorious. I worked as a bicycle mechanic in a shore town rental facility on the southern tip of New Jersey. Rust was the bane of our existence, until we started using Boeshield. It comes in a liquid (drIp top bottle) that could be used to wet the rag in a can.
Thank you as always! Fantastic information.
Paul, your Q&A are great ways for people to gain some insight.
The Japanese learned many years ago that the craftsmen available to sharpen saws were disappearing. They slowly developed the newer razor saws and some are fabulous. They will crosscut or Rip depending on the saw chosen 1000's of times before having to replace the blade.
I agree that we should be able to fine tune out tools ourselves is for nothing other than being able to continue to work at a task even when a tool needs sharpening.
I have restored and passed on 100's of planes and it amazes me what people do not know about the fitting and maintenance of simple hand planes.
Badly ground Irons, Filed or grounf Frogs and soles which ruined a tool.
If you could touch base on the fact that Less is more when restoring tools until a person knows exactly how a tool functions and might need minor repair or modification.
I think there are many people who get hung up on details.
The best thing is when people just start making things and learning as they go.
Simple projects are needed to develop confidence.
If I could suggest some topics for Q&A are reading grain, available and affordable wood types for beginners and the principles of grain orientation.
Wishing you all the best,
Walter,
aka Dusty Splinters.
These Q&A are so great....please keep it going!!
Thanks!
Mr. Sellers we enjoyed it tremendously, just like every new episode you bring us with amazing info that takes out of the dark into a more reachable woodworking path. God bless you, and althoug we are not very good students, you are a wonderful teacher, tnx Mr. Sellers for sharing it with the world. :D
I love that Paul doesn't have a bias to any tool. To me it says any tool is a good tool if it does what you need it to do.
I think a fancier set is still a treat to use after you've used a normal set for a good while.
This is such a great addition to your videos I always pick up something new.
U
great job Paul. I am 81 and try to use my old hand tools as much as possible. Love your information
Certainly have enjoyed these two Q&A sessions. Lots of very useful info & tips- thank you.
Thanks for taking the time. Full answers, always helpful. Sharpness is all ways the answer.
Hey Paul,
I appreciate your taking the time to answer my questions. I will look into your recommendations. I've also purchased silica packets to reduce the moisture.
Thank you Mr. Sellers for all the knowledge you share.
Paul I really enjoy your QA series. Please continue at your convenience. Funny, I hear your voice when I read your "Essential Woodworking Hand Tools" book.
Excellent Paul Keep these episodes going very good information.Thank you
Thank you for the new Q&A! I enjoy these very much.
15:46 and the kink that goes "boing" in the saw blade, is caused by the metal being stretched. An example can be experienced by pressing a tin lid in and out in the centre. When the metal becomes stretched it will always pop in and out and won't remain straight in the centre again. The only cure for the saw blade would be to heat shrink it in the stretched area, which in turn would need re-tempering. As you said probably beyond economic repair and a new saw is the real answer. Great videos!
Thank you for your time. I always learn something.
Thank you Paul. Best regards from the other side of the world.
I enjoyed it immensely, Mr. Sellers. A lot of great information wrapped in a relatively short presentation. Thank you for doing this series. I've never understood the concern over using the oil rag can to lubricate a plane or saw. I understand that folks are worried about transferring the oil to the wood, but think about that for a second - aren't most stains and finishes oil based anyway? Even if a minute amount of oil did transfer over to the wood, it's most likely to be stained with an oil-based stain anyway, so what is the problem? Oh well.
Really enjoying the Q&A format.
Sharpened my first Rip Saw, after watching Paul, works perfectly.
Those 20 minutes flew past lightning fast :) great series
Enjoyed this Paul, thanks for sharing your time.
Late comment, sorry, I just discovered these videos (great stuff!). I've used Boesheild T9 for years and when you first taught us about the oil tin, I used Boeshield to soak into the rag that I stuffed in the tin. Works great and lubricating the plane or saw is quick as a whip. Or wipe.
Been following this channel for years now and it’s truly been inspirational.
And very practical, I might add ;-)
Thank you so much, Mr. Sellers and “staff”, for sharing all this beauty.
Finally subscribed too, by the way, apparently neglected to do so before :-s
Kind greetings from Holland.
I live in FL the humidity is the problem not the heat. One option is store your tools in a chest with a desiccant such as Damp Rid. Be sure to wipe tools down with oil after use.
Another insightful video Paul et. al. Thanks!
Thanks Paul. Wonderful information, as always
Thanks Paul, Great job and very informative.
I love this series, Paul. Keep it up!
Hi Paul, love the show (should be on the BBC ) Any tips for planning end grain using a 9 1/2 block plane I am having issues with chatter and not getting a smooth finish?
Agree whole heartedly with your attitude towards the throw away culture we have been drawn into.
Love you Paul Ive just realized ive been putting my plane iron in upside down xx
How did it work?
It didn't xx
Q&A Question: When, how and why the plane frog adjustment back and forward works?
+1
Just great! Very informative and I like the style.
Thanks for the vid. My favorite woods for chisel handles are ash, Osage orange, and so-called Argentinian lignam vitae. Next time I'll try ipe.
Thanks for the tip about straightening a tenon saw. Was about to give up on my old one....
lot of information and very helpfull as always, Thank you Paul
I very much appreciate your videos.Mainly the intricacy of their explanations .life long and prosper to you.If i made a mistake in english please correct me i do appreciate
Hi there from Portugal,
As Always, very good woodworking information,
Obrigado(Thanks) Master Sellers :D
Thanks for sharing Paul!
Love the Videos! I do have a question regarding planes; How often should i be sharpening the cutting iron? Maybe for reference like when working in thick quarter saw white oak. Thanks for your time and thanks for all the great content!
Thank you Mr. Sellers!
Paul - great videos - you always inspire me to get out the tools and get to work!
Q: I live in a smaller apartment, with no shop -- only a balcony. How would you go about building a bench/workholding device for smaller spaces?
Just buy a Bench Mate. It folds, has moveable jaws, and bench dog type inserts.
I enjoyed it very much. Thank you for sharing 🙏🙏🙏
Great Paul thanks for sharing your knowledge
Thank you for answering my question about hand saws Paul, much appreciated and yes i am male :D
Yes I was talking about a hand saw, I think my use of the word 'Spine' may have confused you but you did in fact answer my question perfectly as I suspected and even touched on another question I have forgotten to ask about the tenon saw.
I will see if I can get a hacksaw blade to make a dent in the hand saw metal and if it doesn't work I will turn the metal from the saw into a couple of card scrapers and find myself another hand saw to recondition, there is no sentimental attachment to this saw so I won't be upset if I can't save it.
It seems like the best tool for quality craftsmanship is the tool between one's ears 😎
great video Paul very informative waiting for the next one
Great lesson guruji.Many Thanks keep going
Thank you Paul.
Hi Paul, I've seen your videos on self made tools like the rebate plane, poor man's router, beading tool, frame saw and I also observe you using a self made straight edge sometimes. What do you consider the most practical and what the most satisfying of such self made tools? Do you maybe have other examples that you could show briefly in a next q&a? Thank you very much for your inspiring videos!
Great info. I really enjoy these.
These are great! Thanks for these Paul :)
These Q&A are great!
For rust and humidity, one thing you can do to supplement the advice given, is to add silica gel packets in your tool cabinets. If you happen to know anybody who works in a shoe store or clothing store, they can easily grab you a bag full of these packets for free (they throw them away). Some companies sell silica gel packs specifically for tool boxes, but they're expensive.
i enjoy this series. keep them coming! :D
Thanks for these videos! I am very much looking forward to them continuing. I read your blog post on the topic of planes with a corrugated sole. I agree with your points when it comes to the common plane sizes, but do you have the same thoughts when talking about larger planes such as #6 and #7 which are really dedicated to straight line work?
Great stuff. Thanks for making the video 👍🏻
Thank you for not preaching to your audience. I always enjoy your very informative videos.
your videos are awesome. Thank you
Thanks Paul.
Excellent! Suggestion: next time please show how to tighten a loose lateral adjuster. I've a couple of planes with that issue. I've tapped and even hit the area with a hammer and steel punch. Nothing. Please please help.
Thank you.
More of them.
Thank you very much Sir! I learned so much again! looking forward for more!
Thanks Paul!
Cool! Thanks alot for your video =)
Like you Paul I learnt as a boy with western saws and now find it very hard to get on with pull saws. I think there rise in popularity has come because they are far better quality than the mass produced hard point western saws. But much cheaper than western saw makers that remain now.
thanks for sharing!
Hey Paul, I've recently begun to exercise my child hood passion for woodworking. A few years ago my grandfather passed and I am the only one in my family who has a love for woodworking and have inherited a great deal of old (possibly antique) hand tools. I have slowly started restoring some of these tools and have come across a RELIANCE Warranted 7/8 chisel that is 6 inches long. I really like this chisel as it is made of a very hard steel that holds its sharpness well, however there is a small twist in the chisel and would like to know what are some of the ways that this could be fixed. As these tools do hold some sentimental value I would like to get some feed back from someone who has more experience with these sort of things. Thanks!
I like the Q&A very helpful
Great video as usual Paul!
I was wondering a more because of man of your age is which do you default to imperial or metric. I'm a 35 year old English bloke and I find I switch between the two.
Thanks for being such a great teacher!
Here is my question regarding old heavily used auger bits:
I have some old auger bits where the spurs are really badly filed down (by previous owners) to the point of almost not existing anymore.
Is it possible/feasible to restore them?
Thank you.
Awesome video
Although he doesn't say it, he does demonstrate an advantage of the curved-spring cap iron over the beveled cap iron.
9:55 shows how the lever cap pressures the 'spring' to cause it to be flat to the blade. This wouldn't happen nearly as much to a beveled cap iron. Even if your cap iron is not flat it can be sprung flat by the lever cap.
I like to cut up single use saws for cabinet scrapers when they go dull.
Hi Paul. I have question for your next Q&A session. I've watched most, if not all of your videos and I can't remember you ever using a block plane. I was always taught that a block plane was perfect for end grain but you seem to use a number 4 plane for end grain. Do you use a block plane? Do you consider them useful for tasks other than planing end grain? Thanks.
Q&A question: When is it ok to use a saw designed for cross cutting to rip cut (and vice versa)? What are the disadvantages of using the wrong saw? How/why are some saws able to do both? Thank you.
speed. Try ripping a 2x4 with a normal cross cut saw and you'll see.
It's good to find The Contents listed above *THANKS*
What wood, tools and materials should one use to start out learning to do inlay work?
You have a great show but when it comes to the letters you should ask your writers to add a photo of the item that trying to describe to you that you can show us and also you can see what's the problem that's going on And those items You so much for going to show You keep making more.
A question Paul: what kind of finish would you recommend for toys? Less than one year old, so they chew on everything. Thanks
What glues should you avoid using with what stains, varnishes, oils, finishes, etc.?
Hello Paul,
Thank you for the videos. Since discovering your RUclips channel and then your website I have fallen in love with hand woodworking. I have made some very, very basic structual stuff. (butt or mitre "jointed") but soon I will have the time to really dive into the hand woodworking. And again thank you for all of the content you provide.
I have three questions. First, as someone starting out what are the first two or three projects that you think I should look at making?? Second, I have kept a fairly close eye on second hand sites but have never seen an older wooden handled saw (or other tools) for less than £15 (roughly with postage). How should I be approaching this?? I really would like to restore a handsaw or two. And the third question is relating directly to the second. You mention the saw sharpening files but again (and it is most likely me looking wrong) I can't seem to find files that are the right ones. Could you shed some light on this for me??
Thank you again.
Hi. I would like to get your input as to whether I should get a card scrapper? Would it assist me it speeding up the finishing process? Do away with sand paper other than for polishing?
IF it helps, sand paper will always have a use in a shop, but between a well-set smoother and scrapers, you don't need to sand a majority of your work. End-grain, tight curves, and the like I still prefer to use sandpaper.
That said, even in my hand tool shop, you'll never get me to drop my oscillating spindle sander :-p
could what type/brand of finish that could be used on the pine workbench you show how make be answered in the next Q&A please?
Adam Kin
Thanks for these. How tight do you make your cap iron? When I set mine to snap like yours, the depth adjustment nut becomes very difficult to turn. Is that normal?
I would loosen it up. you should be able to move the adjustment knob easily with two fingers. you don't want it sloppy though
Apart from one plane I have all set so that they snapp, yet are comfortable to adjust. If you find the blade moves around on you in use, it is too loose, otherwise it is tight enough. The one plane I can not seem to get this to work on I also have a Hock replacement blade in, not sure if this is the cause, but I just can not find one setting that works every time.
You can try Fluid Film on your tools too.
I use a lot of Japanese tools because I've had two accidents in a short period of time that damaged the tendons in my wrists so for me it is next to impossible to make a straight cut with a western style saw :|
A friend of mine who is a cabinet maker saw me struggle and told me to use a Japanese saw. If it hadn't been for these I would not use a handsaw anymore...
I like the No.4 Stanley a lot though :)
Q&A question: I grew up watching Norm Abram and the New Yankee Workshop. What are your thoughts on him as a carpenter? Thanks
The pull saw pulls shavings onto your cut line, you have to keep blowing it off to see your cut.
The push saw can do that just as well. When you retreat the saw, the teeth move towards you, and they will not leave the sawdust in the kerf :)
That seems to happen when starting the cut the same way you would with a push saw. Try starting at the near corner with the saw handle below the piece. The ships exit down and away then.
True.
I often find myself clamping the workpiece vertically to work with the pull saw. I'm moving back towards the push variants nowadays.
HI Paul, about lubricating the soul of plain I see often that even manufacturers recommend some type of hard wax for that for longer lasting (even candle wax based on paraffine) but for protecting against the rust (for iron and chip breaker) they recumbent jojoba oil or camellia oil. Is it worth of doing ? Do you have any experience with it ?
How would you sharpen a band saw blade assuming the teeth are not hardened. Would you sharpen on the leading or the trailing face of the tooth?
several RUclipss on this, both I have seen do the trailing edge.
Yeah that's why I was asking someone I trust on saw sharpening. Lots of people just do a howto the first time they do something.
The old unhardened saws are more rare then hens teeth around here in Denmark. Is it possible to take the teeth of a modern plastic handle hardened saw and reform new teeth on them?
I have a question about using a hand plane. When using a power jointer i have seen the advice that you shouldn't joint both sides since that would cause both sides to not be parallel. Instead you should run it through a planer or cut off. The other side with a Tablesaw using the jointed side as the reference side. When using a hand plane if you planed both sides to make both sides flat would that cause the two sides to no longer be parallel? If yes what do you suggest for working on the side that you want to be parallel to the flattened side?
Paul's approach is to plan one side flat, set a marking gauge to the thinnest place on the board, mark all the way around the board using the flat face as reference, and then plane to the gauge line on the second side. Good idea to use winding sticks to ensure there is no wind in the board as you go.
+Michael Anderson thank you so much for the answer that makes a lot of sense.
thank you! I just bought a Stanley 151 Spokeshave. it keeps clogging up. Do I need to set it up like I did when I got my 1932 No.4 Plane? Any suggestions?
Same issue here! I love using it, but after four or five passes, it clogs up and won't shave any more. I even tried to "sharpen" the edge of the (I suppose it is also called the chip breaker) to help move the material out. No success!
do you have any input on carving chisels and wood carving videos
You were in Louisiana? Plan on coming back? Probably is where your relaxed muscle began to get so strong.
I use Jojoba "oil" which is a wax really, on all my tools after use to prevent rusting, even on the band-saw table. Just dampen a material rag with it and rub it on. I find that finger prints rust fast... With warm humid weather (West Oz) rust will present after a day or so.