EVE Update: Rebuilding with Threaded Rod into 25.6V 560Ah Modules
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- Опубликовано: 14 окт 2024
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The metal banding didn't work as well as I would have hoped. It was a good learning exercise, but I ended up redoing the batteries using the threaded road approach. I also built them as a 16-cell battery instead of the original 8-cell batteries. This is likely the final design I'll go with. Let me know what you think...
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Thank you for the update. I thought the metal strap was awesome, I'm sorry to see it didn't work out well.
I really loved the straps and the banding tool, but at the end of the day, I have to be honest and admit that it just wasn't the right approach :( I wish it were...
@@LithiumSolar Was there anything inherently bad with the strap method? Do the batteries not perform as well, in that situation?
Great upgrade and outcome. Thanks for sharing.
I went completely without compression in my build. The manufacturer talks about fixture which they say is not compression. I guess time will tell...
Back in 2014 when i bought some Winston Lifepo4 cells i never bothered to compress them, Even though the EV guys were showing bloated Winston's Cells. 8 years later still no bloating on my Winston's. So i am led to believe the harsher EV use with high C rates of charge/Discharge are what causes cell bloating.
I like your latest battery configuration design it's more flexible if the need arises.
I agree! It's so easy to just remove bolts whereas the banding tool would require cutting and wasting the band material.
Thank you so much for providing REAL WORLD experience! I see so much conjecture and "... well, I've heard that you should..." on DIY LiFePo4 sites. I also like how you've cleverly used off-the-shelf parts that you can buy at any hardware store. Of course I've Liked / Subscribed and told other live-aboard sailors who are switching from lead-acid to Lithium about your channel. Best regards from Key West!
Try moving with a plastic dolly or a cart with wheels. You can also put handles on to the rods. Consider same size plywood but taller with holes cut in top for hand holds. You can even remove them for use on the next set if they get in the way. On my golf cart batteries I used the old battery wiring just slip terminal holes over threaded rod and add nuts. In your case you might want to turn aangle with protrusion down to attach the terminals and use 2 on each side. Personally I would have just arranged them to be able to move 1 row at a time and make final busbar attachments in place especially since you put rod down the middle anyway. There are many ways to skin the cat, to each his own.
I like you believe the cells should be compressed, I used a slightly different method. I built a sturdy 30” long metal box using 22 ga.metal, add 1/2 plywood at both ends to distribute the pressure, then 2 pc. 1 1/2” angle iron, one against the plywood and the other against end of the steel box , then used reversing turnbuckles between the angle iron positioned in the center of the cells. Using a torque wrench is an excellent idea. Looking forward to your next update.
Thanks for the examples of cover on threaded rod ive been using 1/8” aluminum plate on end-cap of builds! Also using capacitor based 5/6ah active equalizers keep cells perfectly balanced accross voltage curve compliments bms.
H Lithium Solar. I really like your calm and well spoken videos, a pleasure to watch!.
I am at the pont of ordering 36 pcs 280K EVE cells in order to create a 60V 560Ah 30kW battery for feeding 3x Victron MP2 5000/48 inverters.
My concern is at what SOC level one should bolt together the cells.
Would this be at say 20% SOC, I would would definately worry about the cells pushing out 18x0,5mm = 9mm against a massive force, which might cause them to get damaged.
If you would charge them fully to say 90% SOC and bolted them together, the cells would ge loose and rattle if moved.
Have been thinking about neoprene rubber between the cells which could give them a bit headroom to expand, whilst still keeping pressure on the cells.
At what SOC did you bolt the cells together and can you explain how you calculate the torque (300kgf if I am correct) in order to use a torque wrench correctly?
Bolts with springs still look attractive to me too.....
Choices choices...
Liked your recommendations for these cells! Purchased 16 also, takes long time to receive but all cells in perfect shape and all the same.
I'm glad to here they worked out well. I'm stoked to receive my next order. I would have ordered more if I had the monies available… lol
@@LithiumSolar Yes, I want to pick up more also just need the cash! Saving up for at least 16 more. I’m running 24 volt at 560 amp bank also.
Did you order through Schezhen Basen as well? I am having trouble getting a tracking number from them. They say "the freight schedule of FEDEX can only be queried after it is delivered to FEDEX"
@@Jaximus4all I went through Alibaba.com. As soon as they said they shipped, I got a tracking number for fedex. They said they would be delivered in like a week but after a couple days it changed and said they haven’t received them yet. I called fedex and they said shipper hasn’t shipped yet. Then I went to Alibaba.com and talked to them. They checked and said they were in customs and would take about 6 days to clear. On the 8th day fedex finely had them . It took another 8 days to get from fedex and half came one day and other half the next. All together it took 58 days from day of order.
@@Jaximus4all Also, on Alibaba.com I couldn’t find my order but from the e-mail they sent me I had the order number. With that I went to Alibaba.com and customer service, did the online help. Trued calling but didn’t go through. Then texted were it says would like to schedule a call, told them my problem with (add your order number) and about 10 minutes later they got back with me and was a lot of help. Remember that your talking to China, I had to call at 9 pm and it was 9 am China time.
I think for ridgid battery pack, i would use next size thicker end plywood with a dado notch in it, then put bottom wood plate in the notched ends, then run the bands as you have ! I'm thinkin it would support the cells as you pick up the pack , my 1.5 cent op😊
You find some interesting problems or at least specifications. I like the threaded rod gives you more options and adjustment.
I'm not sure if you're saying that as a good thing or bad thing lol. I always try my best to fully-evaluate an idea before I proceed with it. I totally agree the threaded rod gives more future options whereas the banding is a one-time thing that would have to be cut and wasted to redo later.
@@LithiumSolar Must be a good thing I keep watching lol
Hi, great and to the point. I have just set up the exact same system. Would you change your torque settings? Or did you leave the center too rods higher than the outside? Thanks.
Use threaded rod, with a spring element so force remains consistent over time....., bellevilles or thick rubber, shock absorber stud "grommet-bushings" come to mind. If you pre measur ehow much force it takes to compress to a given squish then you will know your installed compression force easily,
Nice update. I like the poly pipe on the threaded rods. Thanks. 64 cells @ 24 v or 48v? I cannot remember the original config. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks! Final setup will be 48V - just can't build as one battery because it would be near 400lbs. At least, not build and be able to move it. I could build it in-place but not sure how that would work out in terms of serviceability. Time will tell...!
Sir if you was going to buy a solar generator or battery pack for ac voltage for camping what would it be? I’m wondering because I’m not good with electric building packs by hand and I would think others are in the same boat as I am. Thank you and hope you reply back.
I suspect the taper top to bottom you mention is an artifact of the process of drawing the aluminium case.
I will measure mine when the arrive as part of my commissioning process. I have 64 going through customs at present.
I'm planning on experimenting with fibre glass tape.
Mine will be supported on a rack with timber shelves. I want them to be supported individually by their bases, so thanks for the heads up regarding the amount of taper.
If I find similar taper I will consider shimming or rubber base support. I won't leave them loose as I don't want the connections mechanically loaded, that is when bad things happen.
I will be going.to some trouble with connections, Belleville washers etc.
I will come back and edit once it is up and running.
I'm replacing an AGM bank and have been obliged to move the whole setup due to new Australian battery standards.
I'm making a virtue of necessity by adding 5 KW of new panels to the system in the process.
Love you videos and always learn something each time you release one.
If you get a chance to review the MPP 2724, I would very much like to hear your thoughts on it.
I always learn as well, part of the reason I love doing this. I'm not familiar with that particular model, is that the 2724LV-MR I see on their website?
@@LithiumSolar - Yes, it's got a slightly larger inverter than the very popular 2424, but the thing I like about it (I think?) is that it has three 110v AC outlets and 2 or 3 USB outlets built into the unit. So, for the "solar generator" you built on the 2-wheeled dolly, it would eliminate the need for the external outlets. I don't know if it's a bad idea to have so much crammed into one box, through?
from what I've read on the diysolarforum is that you always need to compress if you top balance because the cells always will swell a little bit.
Great idea! What is your plans for the winter temps? Heating the container? Or insulating the battery?
The container is insulated. The inverter and chargers produce enough heat to keep it above freezing. I didn't need any supplemental heat last winter.
HI, Thanks for sharing, big up to you for sharing your mistakes as well as the good bit. Much appreciated.
I really love your videos, I have learned a lot from them. What are you recommend for BMS on 16s 48 volt 280 AH pack. Batrium is a bit expensive I was thinking about QUCC or Daly. I have a Growatt 6KW low-frequency Inverter. Your response will be appreciated thank you
That's starting to come together very nice
I wonder if the woven polyester strapping would be a better choice, since it has ever so slightly more stretch than steel. I'm tempted to try it, and maybe round the corners of the plastic cutting board to ease the strap around said corners. It also will likely need something to slightly increase tension in the center ends as the corners will naturally be higher tension by a strap. Both the corners and the center are normally handled by the molded plastic on commercial packs. I wonder if the plates + threaded rod also need something in the center ends, since it seems to be the center of the cells that "breath" a millimeter or two while cycling. The aluminum corners of the cells might could do with even less.
Oh, and the polyester strap using a wire buckle can be retightened or even loosened and reused.
Love this compression setup. Plus the aluminum angle iron are like handles. I think the batteries are slightly bulged in the middle and perhaps you tightened the top rods first. If it was loosened a bit on top and the bottom ones were tightened it would likely be the same measurement. But then there is a chance of the busbars putting tension on the terminals if they swell slightly....
This is a good point. If the rods were not tightened gradually, in sequence, it would be easy to end up with uneven lengths at the same torque.
One way to solve the compression problem using the hose clamps.
Use plywood rather than plastic.
Use three hose clamps One at the very top one in the middle one at the very bottom.
by using three hose clamps you are providing even compression along the entire side of the batteries....
What do you think
Great job building the 24v pack. Would be interesting to see if these are seeing the effects of internal settling resulting in a larger base vs top. Is it possible to test a few cells by charging in different positions (standing, narrow side down, broad side down, etc) and measure after to see if there are any differences.
Recommended comp. by NKON Holland for 280 AH cells is 280-320 kilos.
This version is more economical and preferable. It will save some space if it on the side and with 4 wheels it can be moved more easily.
Did you buy these EVE batteries at Alibaba website, and how much per four cells or 280Ah? I need to build one of 280Ah for myself. Thank you for sharing this video!
Yes. I bought 32 so your pricing for 4 will be a bit different. You can request a quote on their website - link in the description of the video.
Ive just readed an EVE fabrication sheet.
It states that compression must be apply'd at 30 to 40% SOC at 300KGF.
If battery's are expanded the most at 100% SOC, it's makes no sense to put them under pressure at 100% SOC, because the pressure will only drop if it goes lower in SOC.
My guess is that the compression force will decrease very rapidly if the battery drops in SOC, that's why they recommend it at 30 to 40%, that way it stays under pressure at any SOC.
Also, it uses 3 rods to apply pressure, top, middle, and bottom. They used M6 rods.
To bad it didn't state the torque used on the rods ! But im sure it's easy to calculate.
Seeing that they used M6 rods, the torque can't be that high.
Did you happen to work out the torque rating for the Eve cells for that recommended compression? I have just made up the same 16s pack and wanting to know the torque settings. I cant figure it out. You said "But im sure it's easy to calculate.". So will pick your brain ;-) Thanks
@@marinetrax Hello, im sorry, I didn't.
I just put the nuts on the rods, and threaded them really hard hand/finger tight. I didn't used a wrench.
The cells are stable this way, the simply can't expand.
If you use a torque wrench, I imagine the setting must be really low, like 10 or 20nm.
It's better to be on the low compression side then to give them to much compression.
That was my reasoning, but, im still sure it can't be that hard to figure out torque specs, it must be simple mathematics....
@@edwinbruckner4752 Thank you so much for that. Very helpful.
Hi can I run the cell in horizontal position or must the cells in a upright position?
I'm not sure the proper answer to this one. The spec sheet doesn't say not to run them horizontally but it doesn't say you can either. I've seen people saying not to yet others doing it... Not sure.
Can a person make 25v 840Ah sys by using 24 / 280 Ah (8s 3p???) Or are you just better off building 2 different pack like you see here in your video?? And how would you correctly connect a BMS TO IT ??
Thank. Jack in NV
I just got my 16 EVE cells and was just thinking about having my brother cut thick steel end plates on his CNC plasma table for threaded rod compression for my pack. With plastic sheet insulating of course.
I think I will put my 2 weights in between the wooden plates and angle irons in each end of my 4 cell battery and tighten with my torque wrench untill reach 150 kilos when I get my new batteries in january, just to once and for all establish how much torque should be applied,danke schön.
When you get these batteries install, do you still plan to use the Batrium BMS?
Looking foward to the next installment of this series.
Yes, I'll be using the new Batrium WMCore BMS with a new piece of hardware that hasn't been released just yet. Coming soon...
Great video, I think I’ll use something very similar for my design.
Looks just like mine - JC/DC in the AZ. I will be posting a video how I have mine working.
The threaded rods are springs, they stretch with torque applied. I wonder what effect thermal expansion will have on the pressure applied over seasonal or day/night temperature variations? Not sure if this matters much either!
Hi, What about custom duties? Shipping cost? Thanks!
maybe the casing is uneven because of loose tolerances, maybe it's not just your cells. if someone else can check to see if they have lifting on the edges that would confirm that
Noob here, why the compression ? Does it makes any (real) official difference ? Is there studies or recommendations regarding that or ?
The manufacturer specifically indicates in the datasheet for these cells that you'll see an additional 1000 cycles before 80% state of health if the cells are compressed. I consider that quite a difference :)
@@LithiumSolar thanks alot, it's kinda counter intuitive to compress which will help everything...
Assuming you are going to make the parallel connection between the two Series battery packs, how will you keep the bus bar side to side 4 parallel the same length as the busbars front to back for series connection? Or do you not think it matters
Looks good to me but I disagree with the module approach. If you are using the supplied bus bars, the bar running between the 2p modules may be handling twice the current. Why did you not just make 8S1P batteries and put 2 of those in parallel?
I was hoping to see that battery bank with the bus bars I'm trying to figure out how to do 16 batteries cells for 24 volts
I have a thought about compression and I would be interested to know if anyone has thought of it. In all my lifepo4 batteries you can hear electrolyte inside if you turn them upside down. If the battery expands and is not under compression I am thinking that over time the electrolyte may not saturate the complete cell and it could become dry and then not be as efficient and also fail. I have seen batteries that have failed on RUclips and when they take them apart they all seem to have dry areas on the black material in the battery that heated up and turned color and started to delaminate. My thought is if under compression that electrolyte is still in the original volume of space so should be able to keep all surface area wet as it was designed. This would seem to explain why you would be able to get more cycles out of them because the electrolyte is fully saturating all parts inside helping the materials inside from becoming dry and then separating from each other and delaminating causing the battery to fail. Your thoughts???
Why not just build a box of the appropriate size, allowing for a layer of rubber or foam of the appropriate stiffness to provide the desired compression & cushioning?
You could use foam saturated with phase-change material that melts at the appropriate temperature in between and around all cells for thermal management.
I also have 16 of these. Same Asymmetry.
Looks good, nice and simple. Still tossing up whether to use springs on my hypothetical 8S pack.
I wouldn't use springs... I've opened a LOT of battery packs and have never once ever seen springs used in battery pack designs.
@@LithiumSolar The DIY people seem pretty keen on the idea. Things are certainly easier, cheaper and more compact without them. Any thoughts on some sort of compliant material like foam between cells or at the ends of the pack to allow for some movement without losing compression? I suppose if you take any steps in that direction, you really can't use rigid bus bars anymore.
@@leonclose7823 The idea of springs seems to originate from one source in particular. I'm not saying there's anything wrong with that particular source, because there certainly is not, but... have to wonder because I've never see it, anywhere. I have seen these batteries (and similar) bundled with straps and no separators in-between - never once with springs. However, the A123 batteries I pictured in this video are a great example of what you're mentioning. There is some sort of foam between the series cells. My personal suspicion is that it's some type of neoprene but it's very expensive to purchase large rolls of so I never bothered to investigate it any further. I agree, if using a compressive material, absolutely need to use some sort of movable busbars - such as braided copper.
@@LithiumSolar Thanks for confirming my suspicions.
would it be a good ideea to use compression springs instead of being concern of the torque?
you said that you tighten the center rods to 100 square inches , and the outside rods to 50 square inches well? you should tighten them all evenly? think it as how you would tight bolts in a engine head to keep equal pressure at all points the same is applied here, so all the cells have the same constant pressure ? just saying at least that's how I done myself in my builds . think about it? does this make sense
I am not sure that making the pack strongly tied is a good idea. 1: Batteries need to be somewhat cooled down. 2: Winded batteries like these ones are somewhat fragile; the winding cannot be compressed, otherwise you risk to make energy leaks inside the battery.
If being used for an EV or high-power application, sure. For my uses of solar energy storage where they'll see less than a 0.2C at absolute maximum, cooling should not be an issue at all.
Merci pour tout ce que tu nous montres :)
I'm surprised so much thought went into how tight or not tight. I would have never given it so much thought. Does anyone really know to what degree tightness matters?
That’s something I’m planning to do on my 32 pc of the same batteries I ordered few weeks ago
How much did it cost you with shipping? thanks
@@flack3 I believe around 3500$ with everything
Did I miss the video of the creation of this with bms and all? Looking to do the same.
BMS is here ruclips.net/video/m0Z25-jqLrs/видео.html
I want to see that 24v battery Bank all together with the bus bars so I can figure out how to do my cells I seen your first video with the bus bothers of eight so I know how to do them but I don't know how to safely combine both 12v Banks to get the 24v
use a Screw clamp in the middle for compression
Let's see if average joe copies your new design - imitation is the best form of flattery
The idea to use threaded rod is not my own. I've seen MANY others using it already. Truth is that I am not (and do not claim to be) an expert in this field. I do this because I love learning and anytime I see someone else doing something I did, putting their own spin on it, it's great because I learn and the community learns. I prefer to think of it as "inspires" rather than "copies". AverageJoe and I talk quite often on a multitude ideas, battery-related and otherwise :)
@@LithiumSolar Well said - poor choice of words on my part.
i gone a do 2 pack of 8s in series to make 2 pack of 24v and 320ah and them connect in the 2 pack in paralel and made 24v 640ah the question is to do that whith one bms whith 16s cell. the question is can di that 2 pack of 24v in series to them connect in paralel to make 24v 640ah which one 16s bms or not
What is your final voltage target for battery build - 24 or 48 ?
Final voltage will be 48V.
First!
I've been watching you for a while, love the videos! Thanks for making content like this. Now I want to power my ham-shack shed with solar and lithium. It's just a bit expensive for me at the moment.
Thanks again for making great content!
Why replacing 18650 packs? I recall you have huge ones.
too much trouble and worries?
18650 are more energy dense but only last one thousand Cycle while lifepo4 close to four thousand.
Can you post a schematic, or show a picture of the cells wired together?
If my calculations are correct, for those size cells you want the clamping force about 600lbs or less. But this is constant force. Which means not set rigid cool and at a low state of charge. Four springs in the 140lbs range mildly compressed (evenly!) should be about right. To rely on a 1/4-20 nut on “all-thread” rod without a spring is risky. That little nut can exert tremendous pressure at very little torque. Factoring unpredictable coefficient of friction, fastener diameter and pitch, only 5 inch pound will have ROUGHLY 150 pounds of force per nut! Again, rigid, not adapting to changes. These cells do expand and contract during changes to state of charge. I do not use the bus bars for that reason. All that tugging and pushing on the terminals over the years and thousands of cycles has to take a toll. I line up the batteries with the terminals all polarities on the same side (like your top balancing/parallel charging). However I go across diagonally to terminals with a jumper using Selterm brand lugs and Ancor brand cable. #2 for under 150 amp and 2/0 for 300amp loads. Jumpers are sealed with adhesive heat shrink. The jumpers are a bit long so the have a arc or bow, again as to not cause any tugging should anything shift. M6 Belleville washers by HH fasteners on Amazon are used to keep constant pressure on lugs/terminals for many years to come when the stud or bolts are torqued to 4nm or 36 inch pounds. That’s 700lbs of clamping force on that terminal and that’s why they strip out if over torqued. The washer usually flattens just before full torque is achieved (perfect!). Brighten the contact surfaces of the lugs and terminals with Scotch bright just before assembly just don’t get grit in the threads because grit or oil can radically change the clamping force (opposite ends of the range of corse). Because the terminal is aluminum and the lugs is tinned or copper, Ox guard between the mating surfaces is what I use, again not on the threads. If you use screw in studs (grub screws) I like to run them to the bottom and put a small dab of blue Loctite on them so the don’t move when the nut is tightened or loosened.
Wow , crazy how they can curl up like that. What do I google for the cutting mat ?
He has a link to the cutting mat in his description.
@@DavidPozEnergy cheers 🙏 your channel is cool too 👍
do you do the section how to do a BMS 24v8s connection to this kit
I looked through a number of your videos but I did not see a link or information on the battery posts. If you could post that information I and others would appreciate it.
wait, how many batteries do you have? what charges them?
I have 32 currently. I will have 64 when the second order arrives (2 months). I charge them with some solar charge controllers - specifically MPPSolar PCM60X.
I was hearing that you dont have to compress prismatic cells
I guess you technically don't have to, but the datasheet from the manufacturer indicates you'll see an extra 1000 cycles before 80% state of health so I think it would be rather silly not to...
@@LithiumSolar Do they state the force and method to that also in the data sheet? 🤔
Would be a nice video, what this compressing exactly does technically/chemically to the cells for better cycle life.
Can I use separate Bms for ups to discharging only and charging from separate power supply when it is not in discharge mode
Note i am using 1kva 12v UPS which use lead battery ... and i want to use 3.2v lifepo4 battery instead
^ _ ^ ...i do not want to charge from ups it maybe damage the lifpo4 battery ...can it work ^__^
What are you going to do with this configuration?
They will eventually be used for solar energy storage, once I receive the BMS.
Using anything that does not allow expansion and contraction at 12 - 15 psi is extraordinary bad. If you compress the batteries when they are not charged to 12 - 15 psi and then they try to expand the pressure on the cells will go up dramatically (which is not good). I suggest you look at what happens when water freezes in a pipe (hint: it not the ice that ruptures the pipe, its the water pressure that spikes to over 1000 psi from its normal ~50 psi because the water is not compressible, a copper pipe can easily withstand the expansion of the ice.). If you compress these cells and give them no place to expand under pressure you are creating the same type of situation as pressure in a water pipe. That is why folks try to use springs, they can maintain the 12-15psi pressure and still allow the cells a bit of room to expand but still under pressure. There are other better solutions but springs do allow some expansion.
Thanks makes sense. But Eve do not state clearly what they mean by compression that I could find. What way would you recommend is the best option? Thanks.
What about li-ions 14s and parallel 17s lifepo4.....some thought about that....all shuld be charged to 57v...
Is compression important?
it prolongs the number of cycles.
Yes, yes. I have 4 out of shape already.
Bruh how did you afford the shipping?
Its the spacers between
Can you show how you conekt bms
I will have a whole video on the BMS once I get one.
🤗👍 Sehr gut
I cant find not One video on RUclips of a properly built and running16 cell 24v lithium lifepo4 battery bank i sat looking at this video thinking u was gonna put it together i even looked thru ur videos and nope no actual assembly of the cells I've seen every configuration 8 cell 24v 16 cell 48v but not one 16 cell 24v on all of RUclips im to disappointed i thought u was going to put that bank together for us
Price in this pack
Cheapest on black Friday $1500 with free shipping and regular price can be close to $3000.00
yes!!!!!! just how i did it.
You mean 2p8s right? 02:33
No, it's 8s2p - eight series of two-parallel groups.
@@LithiumSolar 2p8s to me means 2 parallel and then 8 series. In that order. So you would pair up cells in 2 parallel (2p first) before connecting all the pairs in an series (8s second) connection. I think that is what you are doing. Right? A 8s2p pack would need 2 BMSs.
Yes, they are paralleled up first. 8s2p... I think you're reading the 8s2p backwards? Or...
@@LithiumSolar I think what goes in front is the first type of connection to make. So 2p8s would mean 2 in series then 8 of those pairs in parallel. Now I am doubting myself and frantically searching the internet for an answer! 😬
@@vanfamilies1562 that is correct. This is 2p8s. 2 cells in parallel first and 8 pairs of them in series second.
😁👍✌👌🖖😎
What about the BMS? LOL
Lol. I don't know why the announcement hasn't been made yet. I keep asking them myself. I think we all know what company I'm working with based on prior videos though... ;)
@@LithiumSolar bigbattery? they gonna make their own bms?
@@lnxpro No, not BigBattery... ;)
@@LithiumSolar then i have no idea. lol
or battery hookup but they already sell some BMSes.
1 kilo is 2,2046 lbs.
Hi
Great video, thanks for sharing. Glad to see you use the threaded rod as well. I decided I wanted hear resistant insulator between cells and tension rods as well, so cut 23.2” x 15.6” Large Silicone Heat-Resistant Mat for Crafts again, from Amaz-n like your cutting mat.
In my 8s build I used top, mid, bottom 1/4" rod with heavy brown die springs from Amaz-n. Added about an inch to length, and less than $10 cost so decided why not. Lastly my tip is to take and spray paint red paint on a strip maybe a foot long and let it dry. Cut into squares and stick this next to every positive terminal and sharpie battery cell number on each. Always know at a glance which is positive terminal without needing to think about it.
No reason I can see why your setup shouldn't do the trick though, so thanks for sharing. Best regards!
What BMS are you gonna run on that beast?
Batrium ;) ruclips.net/video/m0Z25-jqLrs/видео.html
gravity