Don't remember anything after the video :p Great review btw. Ordered some aluminum parts for my MJX 16207 and it's the same story with that. You do have to do some little bit of work to get things installed properly.
@@993ti alright 😄 yes true the imperfections of these metal parts is like a challenge similar to a puzzle, once you're done fitting the pieces properly you will feel satisfied in the end. Thanks for watching
You want some things to break if you get in a crash. If it's all metal then it's just going to bend and the whole car will be out of wack instead of just changing out a part. Just giving you a heads up
Yep I know that, but so far I've had no damages with the car or the metal upgrades since day one. I don't really do stunts like high jumps and I've had some minor crashes but the car with the metal upgrade are still intact, also thanks to my custom bumper that prevented major damages. It's all good so far.
No problem, here's the links my friend. these items are from aliexpress. Bumper - www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805615627137.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main. Lights - www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805795625034.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main. Wheels - www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805687231939.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.
Lol thanks , well in self discovery I'm kinda amazed with myself pronouncing those words too, and it kinda sound "mel upgrades" when I say it. Good thing the subtitles was able to recognize it in correct spelling, I also thought of making a club remix beat with it 1:00 - 1:01 lol maybe. and yeah for some people they don't consider these metal parts as upgrades, some people don't like them and they switch back to plastics, for me I like the metal upgrades. 😄
Thanks man, the shock guards is just a plastic bottle cap that I sliced crosswise to divide into four pieces, then I drilled a hole to fit the shock screws and there you have it. It's a free easy upgrade actually, you can use a plastic bottle cap from a 1.5 - 2 liter coke plastic bottle or any plastic bottle cap that you can find that would fit. Thanks for watching.
On the metal gearbox, did you have a problem with the ball bearing of the differential not seating snugly on the gearbox because it is to loose and has a lot of pay in it?
Good question and yes I also have the same issue, though mine is not too loose. I mean the metal gearbox that I had is loose but it is just minimal that it didn't really affect the drivetrain or the car while it's running. Also what I found out when I first bought the 2 sets of metal gearbox was that the one pair is loose and the other one is tight, so what I did was I swapped the upper and lower part of the two pairs of gearbox to equally distribute its looseness which resulted the front and back gearbox to have minimal looseness. Also I used a thick automotive gear grease on the diffs bearings and inside the metal gearbox and it also minimized the looseness. With that being said, In my theory I think these metal gearbox parts is not consistent in quality, you may get it loose or just a bit loose. Also I think the production process of these metal gearbox is not machined meaning it's manual similar to the manual casting production of pots and pans, that's why it's not consistent in quality. So once again my tip is you may swap the upper and lower part of the 2 metal gearbox, use a thick automotive grease and you may sand off some surface of the metal gearbox to make it tight or at least minimized the looseness, that's what I did on mine and so far no issues with it. Good luck on your build,
I'm still using the same stock shocks but I changed the springs, the springs I used are for 1/10 rc truck. here's the product link from Aliexpress www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806244048105.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.similar_items. Thanks for watching
Ok my parts seem to fit really loosely like they need washers to tighten it up but theres no washers so is the loose fit just how the metal upgradez fit?
Yes most of the parts are a bit loose, and yes it can be fixed with just adding washers or spacers in between the loose parts. If you've watched the whole video, what I did was I cut some DIY washers from a PET plastic or plastic bottles, it worked and that's what I suggest for those loose parts. I also suggest you put just a little bit of threadlocker glue in the screws especially on the tie rods and turnbuckles and also on the screws of the metal gearbox. Mine still runs fine with the metal upgrades, goodluck with your build. 👍
It's custom-made cnc machined aluminum given by a friend. It's not available for sale anywhere but you can achieve the same look by simply spray painting your plastic side guards with silver metallic spray paint. :)
The red tube is just a piece of rubber hose, the bumper is from LC Racing "LC6177 TC bumper", and the reason why I put the red tube was because I don't really like the looks of the foam bumper so I turned my bumper into a custom. I made a video about it, check it out here's the link ruclips.net/video/X08PThMuUKk/видео.html. Thanks 😄
The majority of the metal parts are made of machined aluminum except the gears, cvd and the central driveshaft I think were made of reinforced steel, also the metal gearbox I think is made of diecast pot metal. Thanks for watching.
Thanks, i know years ago i ordered some metal turn buckles for a wl959 and they were heavy metal...Anyway your car looks great..i have a v8 brushless version of this car on the way..its currently the fastest 12th scale buggy on 2s out there..thanks for sharing
Co mam zrobić z tymi łożyskami w kołach wypadają z gniazda ponieważ mają za luźno już nie wiem co zrobić wszystko oki tylko te łożyska gubię je przy każdym ściągnięciu kół już chyba z 20 szt zgubiłem co zrobić przyjacielu żeby było tak jak w oryginalnych wąchaczach żeby to mocno trzymało się na swoim miejscu i żeby koło miało łożysko ????
@michagamza Tak, łożyska są trochę luźne po zamontowaniu na metalowych piastach typu C. Zestaw metalowych ulepszeń, który kupiłem, zawiera łożyska tego samego rozmiaru co standardowe, i umieściłem 2 łożyska na piastę, aby zapewnić szczelność. lub jeśli znajdziesz przekładkę tego samego rozmiaru co łożyska, możesz ich użyć, przyjacielu. Jeśli nadal jest luźny, możesz spróbować użyć kleju Loctite do umieszczenia łożyska w piaście, ale uważaj, aby nie umieścić kleju wewnątrz mechanizmu łożyska. Dziękuję za obejrzenie mojego przyjaciela.
@@Rock-On-Ron dzięki właśnie dałem za dużo kleju właśnie i teraz muszę wszystko wyczyścić w acetonie chyba to puści klejem do opon to kleiłem 🫠👨🔧🤦🏻♂️
@@Rock-On-Ron Thanks for replying. Wow, 1.5kg adds quite a bit. No doubt its more stable but how does the motor and ESC hold up to the extra weight? And yeah I assume you'd need thicker oil for the shocks too.
@@judybustamante9859 so far I have no issues with the esc and motor, the only issue I'm having with the car for now is the battery, because even though it still works I noticed it's bloating a little bit and sometimes even I fully charged it, the runtime is reduced. I think it's simply near expiration and just needs to b replaced. Yes the weight definitely made the car more stable going straight, just make sure to slowdown a bit when cornering because of understeer caused by the added weight, but upgrading the servo will simply fix it. yep using thicker oil will help too, or just use harder shock springs.
I ordered the metal parts online from china to ph thru shopee.com. If you're in the US, you can order the metal parts online thru AliExpress.com it's $40 for the whole set or you can buy the parts partially. Just type in 124019 metal upgrades kit then you'll see your options.
Absolutely, even if you really tighten those tie rods it'll eventually loosen up because of the vibrations while you run the rc, or you'll end up loosening the threads of its screws. Loctite threadlocker needed indeed, I even put a little drop of CA glue on mine for extra strength.
The springs came from a 1/10 shocks for crawlers, here's the link: shp.ee/tzj8kre I'm not sure but I think the top part with the oil reservoirs of this set could be transferred to the stock shocks of wltoys, which I'm planning to do.
@@juliusopiana8702 yes indeed, those springs set in the link are longer and a bit harder good for suspension travel, it also gives strong rebound and higher ground clearance.
Yes, here's the link for the kit shp.ee/s4k3g7y The only missing metal parts is the metal gearbox and the 2nd floor plate which you have to buy separately, and the size of the 2nd floor plate has 2 variants for 144001 and 124019-124017 models. Here's the link for the plate for 124019 - 124017 shp.ee/iu6u98e and here's for the 144001 shp.ee/434d844 Link for the metal gearbox: gold is the best color shp.ee/f3kwugw
Lol glad you like it my friend, yes many owners of this RC were skeptical about the metal upgrades and it's nice to know we got it figured out, aluminum = tough and looks awesome, but requires effort to make it work. or just like they say "with great power comes great responsibility" simple as that. Thanks for watching 👍
In the thumb, you already fixed one of the towers to the metal diff house. How did you do it? I ran into a dremel or drill moment here. What screws did you use? The ones that came with it are not compatible. You started to talk about this piece but then you kept rambling yourself away into useless information like the spray paint. We already know. We do not know thatbthe shock towers need to he modified. Did you already attach the pinion? Or did you throw it away. Salamat po.
I see what you mean, from the time stamp 0:11 to 0:15 and 5:55 to 6:05, I was indeed able to install the silver metal shock tower to the metal gear box, and the screw that I used are the ones that came with the metal upgrade set are compatible, the screw sizes and screw holes diameters on the metal upgrades and gearbox set that I bought is the same size as the stock ones, it's just that some of the screws included with the metal upgrade set are shorter in length. so I ended up using mostly the stock screws with the car. You can actually install the metal shock towers to the metal gear box without modifying it, but it's my personal preference to use the stock metal tower because I'm worried about the screws bending and I don't have a drill or a dremel as of the moment so I'm not able to fully show and explain what needs to be modified at that time. I haven't installed the metal pinion and the metal geared driveshaft yet since the stock ones are still working fine, I will use them once I upgrade the motor. What I'm thinking was that there are variants of this metal upgrade set that has either compatible or incompatible screws and hole sizes, and some of the online seller's description of the item is inaccurate so I don't know about the set that you got but mine is compatible. I wish I could still find the link of this set from shopee or lazada, If I do I'll post the link here. Welcome po, thanks.
Bro please help i been looking up to see if these cars come with a fail switch so car wont run off by itself. My gpx nitro remote died and car took off and shredded to a million pieces. Worst part was it was after i went outside to test run after the hobby shop tuned it. 73mph right into the curb. I bet im still the talk of the fails at there shop 😂
Yeah bro I think this rc from wltoys have a failsafe in them, it's not indicated on the specs but I actually tested this car if it has a fail safe by suddenly turning off the controller while holding the throttle with the car running and the the car just stopped. I even had a situation when i was unaware that I used a low charged and near empty battery on the controller then the same thing happened. I'm not really familiar with nitro rc's but i think a failsafe can be an issue with those since they're a combination of electronics and mechanical nitro engines, a nitro engine could overpower the electronics and that could lead to loss of control. I think most electric hobbygrade rc's nowadays have a failsafe in them, for me electric rc's are way better than nitro rc's, since they're low maintenance, cheaper, more durable, and not noisy compared to nitro rc's. If you're going to try electric rc's you may like them too.
Cheers bro, advance happy birthday to you. yep actually mine is 124019 which is bit outdated, if you're going to get one from wltoys I suggest the "124017 V2" which is the brushless version, there's also the new 'Rllarlo' brand which is simillar, and if you have the budget you could try the ones from 'LC Racing' they're awesome.
No totalmente mi amigo, solo las barras de unión de los brazos oscilantes torres de choque cvds soportes del buje delantero y trasero y el buje de dirección son las únicas piezas compatibles con el 124008
here's the link www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Wltoys-Remote-Control-Car-Parts-Metal_1600243034980.html?spm=a2700.galleryofferlist.normal_offer.d_image.649b52697Nh3nq
you can order the set on shopee.com or alibaba or aliexpress.com, just type in "wltoys 124019 metal upgrades" on the product search and you'll see it. sorry I can't post the link here my friend.
Does this guy not know the difference between front and rear differential? The front has angle for the kick up chassis, while the rear is flat. Sounds like he didn't realize some parts are visually similar but not interchangeable between front and rear.
I actually know about the chassis angle and the front and back differentials themselves were identical, the only parts I know of that looks similar but different was the front and back swing arms, shock towers and the gearbox bracket attachments, so what about it? I was able to assemble the car with the metal upgrades with no issues and it's running fine so what's the problem?
Yep it does, already checked them and they're like only 40 - 50% filled, the shocks on this rc has leak issues, good thing my springs was able to back up the problem, too much rebound though but I like the ground clearance and my springs was able to handle the added weight with the metal parts. Btw, what do you suggest for the shock oil? 40wt? 50wt?
@@Rock-On-Ron I'm pretty new to this hobby and I've only used the 50wt on my 1/16 truggy. It's probably on the stiffer side, but for bashing, it's just right I think. The 50wt could probably be the sweet spot for your 1/12 rc too and since it's got some added weight to it now.
@@Rock-On-Ron sure man. Again, that's just my noobie opinion. I've read different oil weights affect steering and traction too, so it's important to get it right if you'll be racing.
@@tresbb03 Yep actually I already did a bit of research which weight to use and been thinking about getting the 40wt or the 50wt. I also just found out that the stock shock oil in this rc is only 30wt which has low viscosity and since the shocks in this rc has a bit of leak problems, I think it's better to use a higher viscosity oil to minimize or prevent the leakage, that's why I think the 40 or the 50wt oil would be the right choice for my rc, or I might as well get them both. I'm also a bit of a noob myself about shock oils, I'm still about to find out how these different oils affects the handling of this rc.
You can get the wing from Aliexpress, available in four colors for only $1.64 each,, shipping fee may vary depending on your location. here's the link: www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804590294224.html?
Those caps or shock guards are just a plastic bottle cap that I sliced crosswise to divide into four pieces, then I drilled a hole to fit the shock screws and there you have it. It's a free easy mod actually, you can use a plastic bottle cap from a 1.5 - 2 liter coke plastic bottle or any plastic bottle cap that you can find that would fit. Thanks for watching.
Sweeet! I love anodized aluminum!
Yes man, anodized aluminum are awesome they're made durable, corrosion resistant and also stylish. sweet indeed.
Nobody else picked up on the GT1 Toyota dealer music at the end?
Great video mate!
@jjami14 The GT1 Toyota dealer music is one of my favorites, GT1 is awesome. Thanks so much for watching mate! :)
Did a drinking game with my friends for every time he'd say allright. We got drunk within the first 5 minutes of this video :D
lol really? so how did it end up? are you guys alright after that? lol
Don't remember anything after the video :p
Great review btw. Ordered some aluminum parts for my MJX 16207 and it's the same story with that. You do have to do some little bit of work to get things installed properly.
@@993ti alright 😄 yes true the imperfections of these metal parts is like a challenge similar to a puzzle, once you're done fitting the pieces properly you will feel satisfied in the end. Thanks for watching
@@Rock-On-RonDon't forget subscribing, which I did. 😊
@@993ti Sure thing! thanks man 😄
Fantastic video! Please keep these coming. Very high professional production values and great information. Absolutely loved it alright! 😊
Thanks man, been busy nowadays but yes, glad you like it. alright, thanks for watching 😄
You want some things to break if you get in a crash. If it's all metal then it's just going to bend and the whole car will be out of wack instead of just changing out a part. Just giving you a heads up
Yep I know that, but so far I've had no damages with the car or the metal upgrades since day one. I don't really do stunts like high jumps and I've had some minor crashes but the car with the metal upgrade are still intact, also thanks to my custom bumper that prevented major damages. It's all good so far.
😯 Please! The bumper, lights and wheels.. where?? Lol
No problem, here's the links my friend. these items are from aliexpress.
Bumper - www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805615627137.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.
Lights - www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805795625034.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.
Wheels - www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805687231939.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.
Dear Sir, you are the man! 🫡 Lol
@@Ohh_Is_That_Sooo... yes sir you the man 😄
Alright 😂😂
Great video my man 👌👌
Thanks for watching, alright my man. awesome 👍
I like when you say metal upgrades
Lol thanks , well in self discovery I'm kinda amazed with myself pronouncing those words too, and it kinda sound "mel upgrades" when I say it. Good thing the subtitles was able to recognize it in correct spelling, I also thought of making a club remix beat with it 1:00 - 1:01 lol maybe. and yeah for some people they don't consider these metal parts as upgrades, some people don't like them and they switch back to plastics, for me I like the metal upgrades. 😄
Great content man, question… where you get the shock guards?
Thanks man, the shock guards is just a plastic bottle cap that I sliced crosswise to divide into four pieces, then I drilled a hole to fit the shock screws and there you have it. It's a free easy upgrade actually, you can use a plastic bottle cap from a 1.5 - 2 liter coke plastic bottle or any plastic bottle cap that you can find that would fit. Thanks for watching.
@@Rock-On-Ron You’re a genius! Thanks man! 😎
On the metal gearbox, did you have a problem with the ball bearing of the differential not seating snugly on the gearbox because it is to loose and has a lot of pay in it?
Good question and yes I also have the same issue, though mine is not too loose. I mean the metal gearbox that I had is loose but it is just minimal that it didn't really affect the drivetrain or the car while it's running.
Also what I found out when I first bought the 2 sets of metal gearbox was that the one pair is loose and the other one is tight, so what I did was I swapped the upper and lower part of the two pairs of gearbox to equally distribute its looseness which resulted the front and back gearbox to have minimal looseness. Also I used a thick automotive gear grease on the diffs bearings and inside the metal gearbox and it also minimized the looseness.
With that being said, In my theory I think these metal gearbox parts is not consistent in quality, you may get it loose or just a bit loose. Also I think the production process of these metal gearbox is not machined meaning it's manual similar to the manual casting production of pots and pans, that's why it's not consistent in quality.
So once again my tip is you may swap the upper and lower part of the 2 metal gearbox, use a thick automotive grease and you may sand off some surface of the metal gearbox to make it tight or at least minimized the looseness, that's what I did on mine and so far no issues with it. Good luck on your build,
Oh so the new 124007 also share the same part from the other 1/12 models? Except the chassis plate?
Yes I believe that the 124007 has the same chassis and parts, except for the latest 124008 which has a plastic chassis.
What shocks are you using ive had my 124017 for just over a week and the chassias its ruined compared to yours i need more ground clearance
I'm still using the same stock shocks but I changed the springs, the springs I used are for 1/10 rc truck. here's the product link from Aliexpress www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806244048105.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.similar_items. Thanks for watching
@Rock-On-Ron brilliant thank you for getting back to me :)
Ok my parts seem to fit really loosely like they need washers to tighten it up but theres no washers so is the loose fit just how the metal upgradez fit?
Yes most of the parts are a bit loose, and yes it can be fixed with just adding washers or spacers in between the loose parts. If you've watched the whole video, what I did was I cut some DIY washers from a PET plastic or plastic bottles, it worked and that's what I suggest for those loose parts. I also suggest you put just a little bit of threadlocker glue in the screws especially on the tie rods and turnbuckles and also on the screws of the metal gearbox. Mine still runs fine with the metal upgrades, goodluck with your build. 👍
Where did you get those bottom side metal guards?
It's custom-made cnc machined aluminum given by a friend. It's not available for sale anywhere but you can achieve the same look by simply spray painting your plastic side guards with silver metallic spray paint. :)
Hello, Where did you buy the metal side skirt?
Hi, The side skirts are custom-made thru CNC and powder coated by my friend.
What is the red tube on the front bumper?
The red tube is just a piece of rubber hose, the bumper is from LC Racing "LC6177 TC bumper", and the reason why I put the red tube was because I don't really like the looks of the foam bumper so I turned my bumper into a custom. I made a video about it, check it out here's the link ruclips.net/video/X08PThMuUKk/видео.html. Thanks 😄
Are those metal parts steel or aluminum? Thanks
The majority of the metal parts are made of machined aluminum except the gears, cvd and the central driveshaft I think were made of reinforced steel, also the metal gearbox I think is made of diecast pot metal. Thanks for watching.
Thanks, i know years ago i ordered some metal turn buckles for a wl959 and they were heavy metal...Anyway your car looks great..i have a v8 brushless version of this car on the way..its currently the fastest 12th scale buggy on 2s out there..thanks for sharing
Co mam zrobić z tymi łożyskami w kołach wypadają z gniazda ponieważ mają za luźno już nie wiem co zrobić wszystko oki tylko te łożyska gubię je przy każdym ściągnięciu kół już chyba z 20 szt zgubiłem co zrobić przyjacielu żeby było tak jak w oryginalnych wąchaczach żeby to mocno trzymało się na swoim miejscu i żeby koło miało łożysko ????
@michagamza Tak, łożyska są trochę luźne po zamontowaniu na metalowych piastach typu C. Zestaw metalowych ulepszeń, który kupiłem, zawiera łożyska tego samego rozmiaru co standardowe, i umieściłem 2 łożyska na piastę, aby zapewnić szczelność. lub jeśli znajdziesz przekładkę tego samego rozmiaru co łożyska, możesz ich użyć, przyjacielu. Jeśli nadal jest luźny, możesz spróbować użyć kleju Loctite do umieszczenia łożyska w piaście, ale uważaj, aby nie umieścić kleju wewnątrz mechanizmu łożyska. Dziękuję za obejrzenie mojego przyjaciela.
@@Rock-On-Ron dzięki właśnie dałem za dużo kleju właśnie i teraz muszę wszystko wyczyścić w acetonie chyba to puści klejem do opon to kleiłem 🫠👨🔧🤦🏻♂️
Hello, how heavy is the car now with all the metal parts?
Hi, I just weighed the car alone with the battery and metal parts installed and it weighs 1.5 KG :)
@@Rock-On-Ron Thanks for replying.
Wow, 1.5kg adds quite a bit. No doubt its more stable but how does the motor and ESC hold up to the extra weight?
And yeah I assume you'd need thicker oil for the shocks too.
@@judybustamante9859 so far I have no issues with the esc and motor, the only issue I'm having with the car for now is the battery, because even though it still works I noticed it's bloating a little bit and sometimes even I fully charged it, the runtime is reduced. I think it's simply near expiration and just needs to b replaced.
Yes the weight definitely made the car more stable going straight, just make sure to slowdown a bit when cornering
because of understeer caused by the added weight, but upgrading the servo will simply fix it.
yep using thicker oil will help too, or just use harder shock springs.
Where did you get all of the parts or at least for the front
I ordered the metal parts online from china to ph thru shopee.com. If you're in the US, you can order the metal parts online thru AliExpress.com it's $40 for the whole set or you can buy the parts partially. Just type in 124019 metal upgrades kit then you'll see your options.
@@Rock-On-Ron I do not want to get scammed there all I need is a metal steering hub to keep the wheel up
Yep you can buy individual parts that you only need, just search it on Aliexpress
Cool vid man, just got the tie rods and these things are loose. Will need some loctite.
Absolutely, even if you really tighten those tie rods it'll eventually loosen up because of the vibrations while you run the rc, or you'll end up loosening the threads of its screws. Loctite threadlocker needed indeed, I even put a little drop of CA glue on mine for extra strength.
Where did you get the bottom side guad metal?
Those are custom-made CNC machined aluminum side guards given by a friend, made not bought and not for sale anywhere.
Sir,,what spring shock dampers do you used?
The springs came from a 1/10 shocks for crawlers, here's the link:
shp.ee/tzj8kre I'm not sure but I think the top part with the oil reservoirs of this set could be transferred to the stock shocks of wltoys, which I'm planning to do.
@@Rock-On-Ron coz the stock spring at the rear shocks are too short..its got to be longger spring for good suspention travel...
@@juliusopiana8702 yes indeed, those springs set in the link are longer and a bit harder good for suspension travel, it also gives strong rebound and higher ground clearance.
Do you have the link for this kit?
Yes, here's the link for the kit shp.ee/s4k3g7y
The only missing metal parts is the metal gearbox and the 2nd floor plate which you have to buy separately, and the size of the 2nd floor plate has 2 variants for 144001 and 124019-124017 models.
Here's the link for the plate for 124019 - 124017 shp.ee/iu6u98e
and here's for the 144001 shp.ee/434d844
Link for the metal gearbox: gold is the best color shp.ee/f3kwugw
And here we have a very informative video its made of aluminum and it looks awesome lol thanks I needed this v bad
Lol glad you like it my friend, yes many owners of this RC were skeptical about the metal upgrades and it's nice to know we got it figured out, aluminum = tough and looks awesome, but requires effort to make it work. or just like they say "with great power comes great responsibility" simple as that. Thanks for watching 👍
what type the wheel and velg ?
Those are 1.9 inch metal rims with 12mm hex drives, what velg? here's the link for the wheels shp.ee/8cxqang
In the thumb, you already fixed one of the towers to the metal diff house.
How did you do it?
I ran into a dremel or drill moment here.
What screws did you use?
The ones that came with it are not compatible.
You started to talk about this piece but then you kept rambling yourself away into useless information like the spray paint.
We already know. We do not know thatbthe shock towers need to he modified.
Did you already attach the pinion?
Or did you throw it away.
Salamat po.
I see what you mean, from the time stamp 0:11 to 0:15 and 5:55 to 6:05, I was indeed able to install the silver metal shock tower to the metal gear box, and the screw that I used are the ones that came with the metal upgrade set are compatible, the screw sizes and screw holes diameters on the metal upgrades and gearbox set that I bought is the same size as the stock ones, it's just that some of the screws included with the metal upgrade set are shorter in length. so I ended up using mostly the stock screws with the car. You can actually install the metal shock towers to the metal gear box without modifying it, but it's my personal preference to use the stock metal tower because I'm worried about the screws bending and I don't have a drill or a dremel as of the moment so I'm not able to fully show and explain what needs to be modified at that time.
I haven't installed the metal pinion and the metal geared driveshaft yet since the stock ones are still working fine, I will use them once I upgrade the motor.
What I'm thinking was that there are variants of this metal upgrade set that has either compatible or incompatible screws and hole sizes, and some of the online seller's description of the item is inaccurate so I don't know about the set that you got but mine is compatible. I wish I could still find the link of this set from shopee or lazada, If I do I'll post the link here. Welcome po, thanks.
Are all parts 144001 the same size as 124007?
Yes mostly, except for the chassis, central drive shaft, and the second floor board.
@@Rock-On-Ronnice info.. thanks bro
same including pullrod and steering rod right mate ?@@Rock-On-Ron
@@atokBOI Yes that's right and they're adjustable too like the stock ones
ok thank you mate . and i wonderif hsp steering linkage would fit too@@Rock-On-Ron
Bro please help i been looking up to see if these cars come with a fail switch so car wont run off by itself. My gpx nitro remote died and car took off and shredded to a million pieces. Worst part was it was after i went outside to test run after the hobby shop tuned it. 73mph right into the curb. I bet im still the talk of the fails at there shop 😂
Yeah bro I think this rc from wltoys have a failsafe in them, it's not indicated on the specs but I actually tested this car if it has a fail safe by suddenly turning off the controller while holding the throttle with the car running and the the car just stopped. I even had a situation when i was unaware that I used a low charged and near empty battery on the controller then the same thing happened. I'm not really familiar with nitro rc's but i think a failsafe can be an issue with those since they're a combination of electronics and mechanical nitro engines, a nitro engine could overpower the electronics and that could lead to loss of control. I think most electric hobbygrade rc's nowadays have a failsafe in them, for me electric rc's are way better than nitro rc's, since they're low maintenance, cheaper, more durable, and not noisy compared to nitro rc's. If you're going to try electric rc's you may like them too.
@@Rock-On-Ronthank bro my birthday is the 9th thinking of getting one stuck between a few. Want something fast and fun
Cheers bro, advance happy birthday to you. yep actually mine is 124019 which is bit outdated, if you're going to get one from wltoys I suggest the "124017 V2" which is the brushless version, there's also the new 'Rllarlo' brand which is simillar, and if you have the budget you could try the ones from 'LC Racing' they're awesome.
@@Rock-On-Ron thats exactly the one i was looking at 124017 v2 with the 2s and 3s battery for 185
@@Rock-On-Ron will update you
Estas piezas son compatibles con Wltoys 124008?
No totalmente mi amigo, solo las barras de unión de los brazos oscilantes torres de choque cvds soportes del buje delantero y trasero y el buje de dirección son las únicas piezas compatibles con el 124008
ALLRIGHT
Alright alright 👍
Link order?
here's the link www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Wltoys-Remote-Control-Car-Parts-Metal_1600243034980.html?spm=a2700.galleryofferlist.normal_offer.d_image.649b52697Nh3nq
you can order the set on shopee.com or alibaba or aliexpress.com, just type in "wltoys 124019 metal upgrades" on the product search and you'll see it. sorry I can't post the link here my friend.
Does this guy not know the difference between front and rear differential? The front has angle for the kick up chassis, while the rear is flat. Sounds like he didn't realize some parts are visually similar but not interchangeable between front and rear.
I actually know about the chassis angle and the front and back differentials themselves were identical, the only parts I know of that looks similar but different was the front and back swing arms, shock towers and the gearbox bracket attachments,
so what about it? I was able to assemble the car with the metal upgrades with no issues and it's running fine so what's the problem?
And also...
Shocks might need oil looks like.
Yep it does, already checked them and they're like only 40 - 50% filled, the shocks on this rc has leak issues, good thing my springs was able to back up the problem, too much rebound though but I like the ground clearance and my springs was able to handle the added weight with the metal parts.
Btw, what do you suggest for the shock oil? 40wt? 50wt?
@@Rock-On-Ron I'm pretty new to this hobby and I've only used the 50wt on my 1/16 truggy. It's probably on the stiffer side, but for bashing, it's just right I think. The 50wt could probably be the sweet spot for your 1/12 rc too and since it's got some added weight to it now.
Alright 50wt it is, thanks man.
@@Rock-On-Ron sure man. Again, that's just my noobie opinion. I've read different oil weights affect steering and traction too, so it's important to get it right if you'll be racing.
@@tresbb03 Yep actually I already did a bit of research which weight to use and been thinking about getting the 40wt or the 50wt. I also just found out that the stock shock oil in this rc is only 30wt which has low viscosity and since the shocks in this rc has a bit of leak problems, I think it's better to use a higher viscosity oil to minimize or prevent the leakage, that's why I think the 40 or the 50wt oil would be the right choice for my rc, or I might as well get them both.
I'm also a bit of a noob myself about shock oils, I'm still about to find out how these different oils affects the handling of this rc.
Alright?
Alright
Where did you get the rear wing from?
You can get the wing from Aliexpress, available in four colors for only $1.64 each,, shipping fee may vary depending on your location. here's the link: www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804590294224.html?
Where did you get the suspension caps?
Those caps or shock guards are just a plastic bottle cap that I sliced crosswise to divide into four pieces, then I drilled a hole to fit the shock screws and there you have it. It's a free easy mod actually, you can use a plastic bottle cap from a 1.5 - 2 liter coke plastic bottle or any plastic bottle cap that you can find that would fit. Thanks for watching.