Thanks for the great demonstration. This repair is cave-man simple, and saved me $200-$300 to have my reliable, go-to plumber come out and do it. And I didn't have to look at the crack in his butt. The valve was $93 at Home Depot. I used large channel-lock pliers instead of pipe wrenches to unscrew the nuts and it it worked fine. After shutting off the water supply, open a couple faucets in the house to drain the water out. Use new washers and skip the plumber's tape. Save yourself a bundle and do this easy fix yourself.
Shane, you made that daunting task look so easy. Unfortunately I don't have as much room to work with as you (my pressure regulator is located behind my water heater in a closet) but you still made it look like something I could do myself. Good video...I found myself being very proud of you for doing this successfully. Thanks for sharing.
Like the other guy said, no Teflon tape is needed on union/compression fittings. And if there's a gasket, overtightening actually causes leaks rather than preventing. It took balls tackling that, so right on!
Thanks for the video! My regulator recently went out and I thought I’d have to put on a new pipe. Never occurred to me to unscrew the old unit and screw in the new, saved me $ and time.
Wow you made it look so easy man. I wont be so lucky my house builders put mine underground! 6 feet under it's all rusted and really hard to get to. So I'll probably have to cut it and run it above ground and bring it into the garage like yours. I won't be putting the tape on the threads, thanks to the guys in the comments. Now is your turn to wish me luck big time!
Thanks so much for posting this video! My pressure control valve started leaking. I thought I was going to need a plumber. After watching this, I think I can do this on my own
Thanks. Mine has stopped regulating and can't be adjusted. I'll give it a try myself. Your setup is the same as mine. I may also try to rebuild the old one and keep it as a spare. I have an ethical plumber who told me I could save $125 if I do it myself! Update: Success! Getting that second washer in was the hardest part. Instead of 80+ psi, I left it at the default 50psi and I have plenty of pressure at my taps.
Alright, nice to see this. I just bought a little rural home and the water pressure is almost dead, barely able to wash my hands. There wasn't a water meter in for 2 years so the pipes were open, so I think it's either the pressure regulator or maybe it's stopped up at the regulator from dirt/rocks, the soil is sandy with some small smooth stones. Your vid gives me confidence to replace the regulator, it's connected to PVC to the house. Going to do this and see if this is the prob, thanks for the vid.
Correct, no tape is needed since this is a "compression" fitting, the washers make the compressed seal. The tape can act as a lubricant to make the nut easer to tighten and lessen the chance for cross treading the nut on the threads. But again, the tape is not necessary on a compression type fitting.
When my pressure regulator died at a previous residence it was soldered or welded (not sure if I know the difference lol). I started noticing the same symptoms in my current residence and was dreading the $400+ bill. I noticed the one in this house has nuts and thought to myself, "I know how to use a pipe wrench and loosen/tighten nuts". After googling replacement PRV's I noticed some of the "kits" come with threaded ends and other sections of pipe with threads on one side. I'm guessing if I replace like with like I don't need anything but the PRV and the rubber gaskets?
The pressure in my house was 120 which is way too high, and it should not be more than 75 as per the plumbing company guy, who was here this morning. He asked to install a PRV, surprisingly we don't have that Pressure Reducing Valve. He quoted $1500 to install a PRV. By the way we had flooding twice, once due to a flex pipe that attaches to the toilet tank, and just recently by bursting of another flex pipe that goes to the refrigirator. So, I'll start hunting for a reasonable plumber.
The tip at the end of the video to increase the pressure inside if needed is WRONG. You turn the adjusting screw "IN" to increase the pressure, you do not "loosen" it, that will lower the pressure.
Just guessing that if after you shut the water main valve off, and THEN went to all of your faucets in the house and turned them on to drain the water out of each of the individual lines, that all the water that was leaking out wouldn't have leaked out so much?
Thanks. Now the question is what do you do when the fit of the old and new reg. is so tight you cant even squeeze the 2nd washer in. Also the pipes are not movable and are in concrete. Literally could only get a sheet of paper between the reg and pipe.
Good job! Can you tell me whether this valve is silent, or its membrane/spring is clicking constantly, please? I need this valve to be installed inside of our property and afraid it will be a source of disturbing noise. Thank you
Which brand did you get for the new valve? My house is 2004 and the old valve is a Watts N35B. I bought a new valve but the threads of the new valve are different from the old ones. Same size but i couldn't tide them to the old nuts. I looks like you had the same old valve like mine. I would appreciate you sharing the brand. I don't want to cut the tubes. I don't know how to solder pipes. 😪
I'm watching this in 2022..because I currently have the same problem..how do you know what pressure the regulator is set to? I have a pressure gauge downstream of the valve..I also have an isolation valve downstream to isolate the water in the house from coming back
Which brand did you get for the new valve? My house is 2004 and the old valve is a Watts N35B. I bought a new valve but the threads of the new valve are different from the old ones. Same size but i couldn't tide them to the old nuts. I looks like you had the same old valve like mine. I would appreciate you sharing the brand. I don't want to cut the tubes. I don't know how to solder pipes.
this culprit doesn't leak but causes unbearable vibrating and low drone hum when water fixtures used. why I don't know. somewhere in read a contractor needs to do modules tests to figure it out OR THAT a simple adjustment to a wrongly tightened nozzle, which doesn't sound extensive. anyone?
The plummer I had out today, had me write him a check for 425.00 to do this. He left to do another job and was going to come back to put it in. While he was gone, I looked up the price of a regulator! Called his company back and told them to shred the check and not come back. I guess being a 66 year old woman, he thought I wouldn't check the net. Thanks for showing me that it isn't a 425.00 job! What would be a good price to pay a plummer to do this? Thanks, again
i just did one today charged 425 cost me 325 had to order it so it would be a direct fit spent time reaserching ordering part calling the supply house etc. for a hundred bucks plus i gota warranty it. Btw it wasent a direct fit had to make a trip to get an 1 1/4 x 3 brass nipple. thats why these guys charge what they do mine was a watts 1 1/4 quite expensive parts prices are all over theplace depending on what you have . This guy that made the video I guess came out good but bro you really havent got a clue. no offence though you gotter done. Teflon tape? turning pipe wrenches backword, Righty tighty lefty loosie bro!
@@mikeb610 I have no problem paying for service. The problem is if the valve costs 100 bucks and you charge 350 for labor for a job that takes less than 30 minutes. If this dude that didn't even know what he is doing did it in 15 minutes, then you are ripping people off BIG TIME. And don't get me started on your sliding scale pricing. Live in a tin can at the trailer park.....$250 charge. Live in a nice 2500 sq foot brick house you worked your ass off for........$500 for the same dam job. You KNOW you do it. You ALL do it. If you aren't one of THOSE guys good on 'ya. But the majority of your profession rape people on ridiculous mark up charging structure. And you know it.
Hell of a man. And I noticed there was a woman inside 😎 Seriously you did a great job.And you saved yourself at least $200 Maybe more. But I’m curious which monkey wrench was Left handed. 😂
Dude, you sure you got the union nuts tight enough? Seriously? Only need enough torque on the nuts to stop water leaking. These are not 18 wheeler lug nuts guy. That is soft brass you were gorilla slamming.
Thanks for the great demonstration. This repair is cave-man simple, and saved me $200-$300 to have my reliable, go-to plumber come out and do it. And I didn't have to look at the crack in his butt. The valve was $93 at Home Depot. I used large channel-lock pliers instead of pipe wrenches to unscrew the nuts and it it worked fine. After shutting off the water supply, open a couple faucets in the house to drain the water out. Use new washers and skip the plumber's tape. Save yourself a bundle and do this easy fix yourself.
Lol
The valve is now $150. ^_^
Thank You ! I was quoted 500 bucks to have a plumber replace this,, I just called my son in law. this is easy peasy !
Shane, you made that daunting task look so easy. Unfortunately I don't have as much room to work with as you (my pressure regulator is located behind my water heater in a closet) but you still made it look like something I could do myself. Good video...I found myself being very proud of you for doing this successfully. Thanks for sharing.
Rod Curry thank you!
It only took me a couple of minutes to replace mine thanks to your video. I was stressing over nothing
Dude, I'm here in 2022 and you vid saved me a headache. Thanks!
Like the other guy said, no Teflon tape is needed on union/compression fittings. And if there's a gasket, overtightening actually causes leaks rather than preventing. It took balls tackling that, so right on!
Thanks for the video! My regulator recently went out and I thought I’d have to put on a new pipe. Never occurred to me to unscrew the old unit and screw in the new, saved me $ and time.
Wow you made it look so easy man. I wont be so lucky my house builders put mine underground! 6 feet under it's all rusted and really hard to get to. So I'll probably have to cut it and run it above ground and bring it into the garage like yours. I won't be putting the tape on the threads, thanks to the guys in the comments. Now is your turn to wish me luck big time!
how did it go?
Thanks for the video, I am going to replace my house PRV tomorrow.
Thanks so much for posting this video! My pressure control valve started leaking. I thought I was going to need a plumber. After watching this, I think I can do this on my own
Thank you Shane very detailed video. I hope this goes as smooth for me today.
How did it go?
Thanks. Mine has stopped regulating and can't be adjusted. I'll give it a try myself. Your setup is the same as mine. I may also try to rebuild the old one and keep it as a spare. I have an ethical plumber who told me I could save $125 if I do it myself!
Update: Success! Getting that second washer in was the hardest part. Instead of 80+ psi, I left it at the default 50psi and I have plenty of pressure at my taps.
great job. To increase the pressure, turn the bolt clockwise and visa versa
Great job! I'm in the process of replacing mine as well. DIY ftw!
Thank you very much for the video. We might be having to rebuild ours and replace it.
Great Video! Simple. Yet straight to the point. Great job buddy!
Alright, nice to see this. I just bought a little rural home and the water pressure is almost dead, barely able to wash my hands. There wasn't a water meter in for 2 years so the pipes were open, so I think it's either the pressure regulator or maybe it's stopped up at the regulator from dirt/rocks, the soil is sandy with some small smooth stones. Your vid gives me confidence to replace the regulator, it's connected to PVC to the house. Going to do this and see if this is the prob, thanks for the vid.
Any luck? Did it fix the issue?
@@RogerPack Yeah it worked out, that was THE problem. Easy to do, but only saw that after I did it, like doing anything for the first time.
Thanks for the video. In this case I think the teflon tape isn't needed because the water tight seal is at the rubber seal.
Correct, no tape is needed since this is a "compression" fitting, the washers make the compressed seal.
The tape can act as a lubricant to make the nut easer to tighten and lessen the chance for cross treading the nut on the threads.
But again, the tape is not necessary on a compression type fitting.
When my pressure regulator died at a previous residence it was soldered or welded (not sure if I know the difference lol). I started noticing the same symptoms in my current residence and was dreading the $400+ bill. I noticed the one in this house has nuts and thought to myself, "I know how to use a pipe wrench and loosen/tighten nuts". After googling replacement PRV's I noticed some of the "kits" come with threaded ends and other sections of pipe with threads on one side. I'm guessing if I replace like with like I don't need anything but the PRV and the rubber gaskets?
I may have to do something like that as well, and this video could be a life saver. Thanks!
Thanks, very helpful. Nice clear well lit video. I will add the tape is not required for this, the rubber seals and taper do the job.
Thanks for the video! Sort of looking forward to fixing mine later today, and this is very helpful.
The pressure in my house was 120 which is way too high, and it should not be more than 75 as per the plumbing company guy, who was here this morning. He asked to install a PRV, surprisingly we don't have that Pressure Reducing Valve. He quoted $1500 to install a PRV. By the way we had flooding twice, once due to a flex pipe that attaches to the toilet tank, and just recently by bursting of another flex pipe that goes to the refrigirator. So, I'll start hunting for a reasonable plumber.
Thank you. Very nice and you're right, I can do it....in fact.... I DID IT!! Thanks again.
The tip at the end of the video to increase the pressure inside if needed is WRONG. You turn the adjusting screw "IN" to increase the pressure, you do not "loosen" it, that will lower the pressure.
Thanks for the video, I'm going to install my own later today.
Just guessing that if after you shut the water main valve off, and THEN went to all of your faucets in the house and turned them on to drain the water out of each of the individual lines, that all the water that was leaking out wouldn't have leaked out so much?
And? He forgot to drain the water correctly, so what? He got the job done. Some of y’all are haters.
Well, a plumber quoted me over $700 to fix this, so you may have just saved me a lot of money
were you able to do it?
Thanks. Now the question is what do you do when the fit of the old and new reg. is so tight you cant even squeeze the 2nd washer in. Also the pipes are not movable and are in concrete. Literally could only get a sheet of paper between the reg and pipe.
Nice job, bro. Gonna make the attempt today. Thx for the video.
Good job, and great video. Thanks for posting.
Well done. I too need to do this
Good job! Can you tell me whether this valve is silent, or its membrane/spring is clicking constantly, please? I need this valve to be installed inside of our property and afraid it will be a source of disturbing noise. Thank you
Which brand did you get for the new valve? My house is 2004 and the old valve is a Watts N35B. I bought a new valve but the threads of the new valve are different from the old ones. Same size but i couldn't tide them to the old nuts. I looks like you had the same old valve like mine. I would appreciate you sharing the brand. I don't want to cut the tubes. I don't know how to solder pipes. 😪
Why did you decide to replace it?
Thank you man. I just changed mine based on your video.
daniel yiarga how much does thr part cost?
$52 at Home Depot
7:30 la aplicación de cinta teflon en las roscas del regulador, resulta inútil y contraproducente. El sello se efectúa en el empaque de neopreno.
Nice work. Now replace that bib with a quarter turn and your golden
great video
great job! tnx for the video!
I'm watching this in 2022..because I currently have the same problem..how do you know what pressure the regulator is set to? I have a pressure gauge downstream of the valve..I also have an isolation valve downstream to isolate the water in the house from coming back
Nice job man, gave me confidence to do it myself, did you return the channel locks after you finished?
Noticed you left the tags on 😂
Just found your video on this pressure valve, repair 👍👍.. I have to mine ,do you shop at albertson.. ?
thanks for sharing
Which brand did you get for the new valve? My house is 2004 and the old valve is a Watts N35B. I bought a new valve but the threads of the new valve are different from the old ones. Same size but i couldn't tide them to the old nuts. I looks like you had the same old valve like mine. I would appreciate you sharing the brand. I don't want to cut the tubes. I don't know how to solder pipes.
Any resolution? You may be able to take the old one to a plumbing repair store and ask if they have anything closer?
@@RogerPack that’s what I did. Thanks 🙏
6:25, we’ve all been there.
oh yeah ! Me with my whole house water filter lol
Open the valves in the house too
Thanks, was quite helpful.
Thank you!
I tried it but I'm having water leaking out of the bottom. What do you suggest?
what is the approximate expected lifespan of these? thanks!
I've heard about 10 years
open up the faucets in the house
Agree. the vacuum from having the faucets closed will cause the water to keep leaking out slowly like this.
Lucky all the replacement were same size, sometimes, replacements are not same length and you have adjust the pipe
whish bran did you used if you don't mind uskinf
Thanks for the vid!! I did it :)
No need for Teflon tape. Those rubber o-rings will seal that regulator from leaking.
this culprit doesn't leak but causes unbearable vibrating and low drone hum when water fixtures used. why I don't know. somewhere in read a contractor needs to do modules tests to figure it out OR THAT a simple adjustment to a wrongly tightened nozzle, which doesn't sound extensive. anyone?
The plummer I had out today, had me write him a check for 425.00 to do this. He left to do another job and was going to come back to put it in. While he was gone, I looked up the price of a regulator! Called his company back and told them to shred the check and not come back. I guess being a 66 year old woman, he thought I wouldn't check the net. Thanks for showing me that it isn't a 425.00 job! What would be a good price to pay a plummer to do this? Thanks, again
carol loch how much did the the part cost
i just did one today charged 425 cost me 325 had to order it so it would be a direct fit spent time reaserching ordering part calling the supply house etc. for a hundred bucks plus i gota warranty it. Btw it wasent a direct fit had to make a trip to get an 1 1/4 x 3 brass nipple. thats why these guys charge what they do mine was a watts 1 1/4 quite expensive parts prices are all over theplace depending on what you have . This guy that made the video I guess came out good but bro you really havent got a clue. no offence though you gotter done. Teflon tape? turning pipe wrenches backword, Righty tighty lefty loosie bro!
I suppose it depends on where you live, but $425 is a very reasonable price for a PRV replacement by a professional plumber.
425 is a very reasonable price. It’s tough being in this industry because in today’s world everyone wants something for nothing
@@mikeb610 I have no problem paying for service. The problem is if the valve costs 100 bucks and you charge 350 for labor for a job that takes less than 30 minutes. If this dude that didn't even know what he is doing did it in 15 minutes, then you are ripping people off BIG TIME. And don't get me started on your sliding scale pricing. Live in a tin can at the trailer park.....$250 charge. Live in a nice 2500 sq foot brick house you worked your ass off for........$500 for the same dam job. You KNOW you do it. You ALL do it. If you aren't one of THOSE guys good on 'ya. But the majority of your profession rape people on ridiculous mark up charging structure. And you know it.
99% of these in Dallas area are buried in front flower bed.
Hell of a man. And I noticed there was a woman inside 😎 Seriously you did a great job.And you saved yourself at least $200 Maybe more. But I’m curious which monkey wrench was Left handed. 😂
Don’t need tape
You don't need teflon take where you put it.
90% of installs are not this easy, most of the times you have to cut pipe and solder 😂 good luck though to yall
Learn how to use pipe wrenches
I got wilkins
And you don't use pipe wrenches you use crescent or even channel locks
Dude, you sure you got the union nuts tight enough? Seriously? Only need enough torque on the nuts to stop water leaking. These are not 18 wheeler lug nuts guy. That is soft brass you were gorilla slamming.
use pipe dope next time i wouldn't be surprised if it leaked laftre
Put the tape on the wrong way
You know not to bother watching a tutorial when the guy has to buy two new pipe wrenches to do the repair
Your not a plumber are you you don't put tape on that shit it has gasckets
Tito Rochin no. I’m not a fuckin plumber. But... thanks for the view! You gave me money! Troll