Regarding the issue with the spanner, I looked in the UK at the cost of the spanner that you mention and it costs a small fortune over here. I couldn't find anything similar that was sold without it being in a very expensive set, so I asked round everyone I knew to see if anyone had a spare 7mm spanner (I only had a closed ended one) and then asked a favour of a neighbour and got them to grind it to a thin spanner. It works a treat. Thanks for the details on the type of spanner needed.
You're very creative, Kerry. Hats off to you for finding a good, affordable alternative. I pinned your comment for others to see first in case they want to follow your idea. Thanks for sharing it, and for watching my channel.
Oh wow Andy! I found a beautiful blue 348 yesterday and the needle is going way to the left, hitting the plate, so I went searching and I found this video! This model looks identical to the 348. Now let me go finish watching the video. I hope it works for me….fingers crossed.
Thank you so much for explaining in details. Fixing up an old husqvarna optima 120 that I got for free. Its in really good shape too. Just the typical locked up parts after being stuffed deep inside a closet for years. I was so confinced it was the needle bar that needed adjustment. Took a closer look at the pressure bar after watching your video, and found a locked up pressure bar guide. Thank you for the help ❤
Of course you're welcome. But really, I'm thinking you because I had no idea that a video of mine could apply to a machine like that. I guess the basic principle of sewing machines is the same, though it's really kind of you to leave a message like this. I appreciate it and happy sewing!
@@andytubesewing1953 it may help that I have some technical education. Also grew up with a tinkering father, so ended up being it too XD Guess that helps me understand more in depth how stuff works.
@@thetigerthedragon6806 That's fortunate. I'm kind of hoping somebody else gives you a free machine heard from so many viewers on my channel that have fixed the machine where two or three and say it's one of the most rewarding things they've ever done. Kind of addicting which is okay because the machines are worth saving. I still think you're a natural if you could apply my video to your machine that was really nicely done
This is great! My needle was hitting the plate after I got it all jammed up with thread and fabric. I only have the multi purpose plate. It does not hit anymore, because i changed needles but makes an odd sound. Works but...Wondering if something got bent. Thank you so much! Not an old machine, but love learning.
Andy, Your videos are very thorough! I used to part time repair sewing machines from 1978-1980 for a Singer store while going to college. I repaired one just like this one and it was working perfect. The following Saturday I was working and I heard a lady loudly yelling at the manager that her machine was not right. He brought her to the used machine area and asked what kind of machine she had. She pointed at a 400 series. The manager asked what the problem was. Her reply, "It sews little bitty stitches that are very close together". He asked, "Did you adjust the stitch length regulator over hear?" Response, "I never touch that! He should have left that alone". The manager came back to see me. He said, "the real problem is she sews for people for her living."
🤣 Thanks for sharing this, Kevin. It brightened my day. It kind of reflects on the lost sewing skills here when a person who "sew for a living" doesn't understand the stitch length feed regulator. I have found younger people to be quite interested in vintage machines and learning to sew; all the more so during this pandemic, and I'm really happy about that. Hope you stop by again sometime. Take care.
I bought my 457 a while back. Finally tried it out and pow the top vertical gear crumbled. After searching I found this jewel of a man, AndyTube. I’m sorry he is gone now 😢 but hopefully his great tutorials will help many more people like me,,,who made three attempts at getting the timing precisely set,, continue enjoying the vintage Singers. ❤
Welcome to my Andy Tube Channel, Brenda. I appreciate that you have saved that nice machine and left a comment.🙏 You're very kind, and thanks for watching my channel. Take care.
@@andytubesewing1953 I know you’re not making videos anymore but I’d just like to say, I love your style of explaining how to fix our machines. I enjoy working on them and using them too. Happy Thanksgiving to you and your family 🦋
Hi Andy.. Thank you for this and all of your videos. I have been learning sewing machine repair for a couple of years now, and I am always running into issues. Many times, I have found the answer, watching your videos. I have started just letting them play on loop, while I work... hoping to absorb some of your knowledge. Please, continue making the videos and helping me learn.
I'm humbled you watch so many; thank you. With all the new activity of people sewing during the pandemic, there is a big demand for vintage machine repair. I don't do it any longer, but judging by the many requests I get for it I could be making a decent living from it. I'm always happy hearing people are fixing and maintaining their own machines, or family members' machines, so hearing of someone doing it more often is a bonus for me. I wish you all the success in the world. Even as a hobby it is a very rewarding experience. You know where to reach me if I can help. Thanks for sharing on my comment section and take care.
I'm loving this 457 series, it's really helped me appreciate and understand this model. Really hope you are successful fixing the feed dog drop because mine is stuck too...counting on you Andy! :-) Your videos are like a library of vintage sewing machine knowledge, thanks so much for taking the time to share what you have learned.
Thank you Andy Tube! Found I had a twisted presser foot which was causing problems! Got everything centered and runs like a dream now! You are the best!
Sir, I love your precise instructions. After changing out the top shaft gear following your long video on doing so and timing, I find that I have a new issue. The needle position will not stay in place. For example moving the lever all the way to the right almost centers the needle but it will not stay. I can easily move the needle bar from side to side manually. Have you any instruction on this adjustment or repair?
I've never had this problem so have not dealt with it before. I'm guessing the spring came loose to the selector lever or a partial disengagement of the needle bar driving arm to the needle position lever bracket. That is a WAG though (wild ass guess 😃) I have the original Service Manual for this class of machine (96 pages) and am happy to share it with you if you'd email to andymanuals53@gmail.com Please put "SM MODEL 457" in the Subject Line and I will let Allan know to send it to you no charge 💖
Thank you so much Andy for such detailed instructions. Even though i couldn't find the corresponding gage on my Janome 3160 your video instructions confirmed that the needle us set way far back. I would have liked to learn how to fix it myself as i live in the jungle and getting to professionals is a project on its own, still with your video i am at least comfortable that the problem is identified. Thank you so much
Thank you for the kind remarks. I don't know anything about your machine because I only work on vintage singers but when I run into a problem I try and find a service manual because they usually will have instructions for these kind of adjustments. I think I found your manual at a website i use frequently. Although the cost is about $9, it may be worth it to you. Take a look and see what you think; manualsoncd.com/product/janome-3160qdc-sewing-machine-service-parts-manual/ Good luck and thanks for watching my channel
Thank you for this video. I thought I was going to have to take my sewing machine apart because my needle bar was off center, but it was actually just a settings thing that you showed.
Hi Andy. It was unexpected fun to see you recognize me and my husband regarding that thin wrench. It was even better to see you use it in the video. I am very much enjoying your new videos on the 457. Using the hole on the straight stitch plate seems much easier to use to center the needle than removing the feed dogs, using the feeler gauges, etc. However, I looked at my feeler gauges, and I have a .0015 in feeler gauge, which should be perfect to measure the hook to needle distance if I go that route. I had already done a top gear replacement using your reference from "singersewinginfo" from your first video on the 457, however, I watched every minute of this video. Some things I learned: It's okay if the vertical shaft drops too much, just push it back. I wondered what those two weird oil holes near the faceplate and on the bed go; I now know they oil that shaft. Look twice before you put back the pulley that goes on the hook on the bottom of the machine--on my first attempt to replace the top gear, I did put that gear on upside down. Not until I compared it with another 457 did I realize my mistake; I think I didn't figure this out for at least a week--it doesn't run very well with it on upside down! Thanks again for all your videos--I'm looking forward to one, if you do it, on that little feed dog knob.
I was hoping you would see the video. I loved using this new thin wrench. WOW! So easy. I'm glad you liked the video and I am currently filming the feed throw-out video. Coming soon!
Hi Andy, I am another grateful viewer, it so happens that I have a 411G model, and it doesn't have that adjusting screw, my needle was actually hitting the hook mechanism. I was racking my brain trying to see how could I adjust it until it dawned on me that the needle was out of position because the screw that holds the thread guide on the needle bar was off, as soon as i put the screw back in, the needle fell into place. Thank you so much for being in inspiration to many of us to search a little further. May God Bless you always
Very kind of you to leave this nice comment. Thank you. I have only seen pictures of the German Made Slant machines, including the 411G. I am glad you figured the needle out. Thank you for watching muy channel.
Hi Andy, I discovered quite by accident that if you loosen the screw opposite the screw that holds the center, left and right lever, you can adjust the needle bar quite easily to the left or right for center the retighten the screw. It may not be the "correct" way but it worked for me. When I was replaceing the upper gear I wanted more room for my fingers so ,I had intended to remove the lever and bracket so I could get in there with a little more ease. When I began to loosen that screw I noticed some movement , made a mental note and screw it back tight. I didnt want to hzve to fix at that time anymore than that gear. I did notice when I was done and tried the machine out tgat it looked like the meedle was not on center, while watchi g your video the mental note I made came up and I unscrewed that screw and noticed I could move the needle bar left or right..so I centered it, tightend it and I was done.
Hi. My wife has a 1.5 year old singer 4452, and the needle bar is seized. Loosening the clamp (the one that was seized on your machine) lets me move the handwheel fine then. The needle bar is seized at the bushings for sure. I have a tiny bit of movement up and down (maybe 1/8") and a little twisting motion. The next step would be to probably get some cleaning fluids into the bushings? Anti seize, degreaser, alcohol, kerosene maybe? Haven't spent much time on it yet. Will try and troubleshoot more when i finish work. Thanks for the video!
I've never worked on one; way too new, like 50 years, haha. I can't advise you with exact knowledge, BUT, I can give you a free copy of the original 30-page Service Manual in PDF format. andymanuals53@gmail.com.
@andytubesewing1953 it does look like it's exactly the same concept as the machine you are working on. If you didn't have the product that you used to loosen up the clamp, what substitute would you have used? The service manual would be excellent for me to take a look at. Thank you! I will send you an email.
@@Mchampion4 Things I used before finding Krud Kutter Cleaner & Degreaser. 70 to 90%alcohol, WD-40, PB Blaster, Hoppes Gun Cleaner, kerosine. One of the retired Singer Repairmen who came to AZ each winter told me on the old iron (black) Singer machines that ran slow they would use kerosine in the oil can and run the machine for 5 minutes then start putting oil back in it to flush the kerosine, WHen a machine came it that was frozen the would soak the whole thing, minus motor/wiring, in a 5-gallon bucket of kerosine overnight. The KK has no odor, is earth friendly, and works the fastest. WD-40 is very good but you have to flush it all out carefully b/c it is not a lubricant.
Great vid thanks. I find that holding the screwdriver (35:45) and adjusting the nut whilst holding the needle bar you need three hands.I found that a couple of strong rubber bands of a suitable length between the screwdriver handle and the handwheel made it easier for me
Hello sir, I need to set the position at a new sewing machine but it is all the same like you explained in such a detailed degree. Thank you very much for that and greetings from Germany 🤠✌
Thanks for watching my channel. It's nice to hear my video helped you with a new machine. The general principles of needle height and needle to hook timing are the same over the years and models and brands. It was nice of you to comment. Thank you.✨
Have you ever done such a video on a consew Model 199RB-1A? this video was fantastic and your presentation was right on. Love the detail explanation and gentle manner of delivery. Wish you lived next door.
Hi, Molly. I've never worked on an Industrial Sewing Machine like the CONSEW 199RB-1A, but you can download the original Instruction Manual for it from The CONSEW website. It's a PDF document and they do not charge you anything. It will have instructions for setting the NB height, centering the NB and timing, etc. Here is the download page for your manual; www.consew.com/Files/112347/InstructionManuals/199RB-1A.pdf Thanks for the kind words and for watching my channel. Good luck.
thank you for this video, do you have a video to adjust the bobbin, my machine is not picking up the bobbin thread, and the bobbin is not turning with the wheel.
I think you have a defective gear on top of the vertical shaft. That shaft turns the right pulley on the bottom of the machine that turns the timing belt that turns the hook. If your hook is not rotating you're either missing the timing belt (very rare) or the top gear is bad (most likely) I made a video with step-by-step replacement instructions ruclips.net/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/видео.html The gear is $10.
Hi Andy, You mentioned that the Brazil made singers aren't much good. I know its best to avoid plastic gears etc. I'm considering a Singer 15 for some light- med leather work, but would like to know your opinion on home machines, maybe from the 50-60s etc that were made well and possibly have strong motors. Any chance you could mention 4-5 models to consider? Thanks !
The following list of machines are Domestic Models, meaning made for home sewing, but by today's standards are considered heavy duty. SINGER MODEL 15-95, CAST IRON potted motor that directly drives the gearing, no motor belt, no timing belt, straight stitch only. ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKJftyGwzdDiWa9R6HFEACJo SINGER MODEL 201-2, CAST IRON potted motor that directly drives the gearing, no motor belt, no timing belt, straight stitch only ruclips.net/video/kIo6ylvF_uY/видео.html SINGER MODEL 301/301A, CAST ALUMINIUM, direct drive motor, no belts, straight stitch only, SLANT NEEDLE MACHINE. ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKLZyGebzS_oISgesXNyREyI ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKI_6fbu3itbd1v4z3uQvvkO SINGER MODEL 401A, CAST ALUMINIUM, direct drive, no belts, straight stitch, and dozens of zigzag patterns SLANT NEEDLE ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO SINGER MODEL 403A, CAST ALUMINIUM, SISTER TO 401A SAME MOTOR/GEARING, uses 22 snap-in cams for ZZ SEWING. ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKKyqvdDRwS-9MfLuwSNJTcg SINGER MODEL 404, CAST ALUMINIUM, heavy duty straight stitch only brother to the 401A/403A also slant needle ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIB4kvIHCfHYuyLMUp5A4UI
Hi Andy. I like the time stamps in your description area. It'll make it easier to come back later and access specific areas of the video . I know I've gone back to some of your other videos and have spent time scrolling through to find what I'm looking for. And after working on a parts machine the last couple of days, I'll be buying the big bottle of Krud Kutter concentrate, some of that old hardened oil can be very difficult to remove with a diluted mixture. Thanks for the video. Have you any techniques for tracking down noises? You know, finding a rhythmic click or clunk other than the normal whirring of precision machinery?
Thanks for mentioning the time stamps. It makes it seem worthwhile to spend the time listing them. After the first 32oz spray bottle of Krud Kutter, I started buying it by the gallon. I bought a decent spray bottle so I can mix it how I like, but there are plenty of times I use it full strength too. I do a lot of dismantling of parts and often use an ultrasonic cleaner now for the removed parts that fit in it. I can run that while I pre-treat the body, wash it, dry it and oil it afterward. I have to say that ultrasonic cleaner sure gets the parts clean, even just using plain water. I usually toss in an ounce of the KK though. I used it on the faceplate of the 99k, with all those groves in the design I had used the KK and a brush, but it really sparkled after the ultrasonic bath. ruclips.net/video/EI_3eZ89E2Y/видео.html Thanks for watching, Terry.
My husband just found 2 Riccar sewing machines. Super stretch R510. This video might just work for me to work on them. Looks like they both were recently refurbished too.
I don't know anything about Riccar machines. Adjusting the height of the needle bar can affect the timing of the machine too, so be careful. Good luck.
Fantastic! Thanks for keeping your 347 in service. A good machine. ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKJS_4FKPb4bgAbHtYWnexvy ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIv5oChf24tvhU_bc45eVYK
Very interesting video Andy. I'm looking for some instructions or help with setting the height of the needle bar of a Singer 15-30. Unfortunately I can't see any positioning marks on the needle bar, I assume there was still a way to figure the correct height, is it documented anywhere?
andymanuals53@gmail.com enter singer model 15-30 in subjet line. In body ask Alan for the 15-30 intruction manual with "Intructions for Adjusters". When he replies with the PDF manual look at page 13. Good Luck.
Your video is one of the best I ever seen. I have an Imperial Super Deluxe 562 sewing machine. The needle hits the paddle and I think there is a problem with the lever. please tell me how to fix this.
Hey Andy thanks for the video, I have a Singer stylist 533 and was wondering if you have a video on how to fix the zigzag timing,it does a good straight stitch but moves the material when trying to zigzag.i appreciate any help you can offer
If the needle bar is centered and the needle is not bent what you describe sounds like the Pendulum Movement of the NB is out of adjustment. (rare) I do not have a video for that. Without a needle or thread on the machine set the width as wide as it can be and turn the handwheel toward you. The needle should exit upward from the needle plate straight up at first before moving sideways. If it comes up and goes down at an angle the pendulum is off. Some adjustments can be made. You can buy a copy of the Service Manual for models 5xx for $4.99 manualsoncd.com/product/singer-500-sewing-machine-service-manual-518-538-513-514-533/ The instructions are on page 56, If it is not the Pendulum Movement then at least you'll have a complete Service Manual for the machine to check/test other parts settings.
Andy, thank you so much! Your videos have helped me so much! I have a 457 that has a needle bar that just flops around, not attached to anything that makes it go up and down. What am I missing? TIA
Parts? maybe missing parts. The needle bar is held in the vibrating bracket by that connecting stud ruclips.net/video/HfTrIdUpU68/видео.html that stud connects to the Take-Up Lever inside the nose that makes the needle go up and down. ruclips.net/video/y1DQmHnxzJc/видео.html The vibrating bracket is what makes the needle bar swing back and forth for ZigZag sewing. ruclips.net/video/LdtVNi1ubSM/видео.html There is a Needle Bar Driving Arm that connects to the top of the VB and goes into the top of the machine over to the cam stack area to a follower that rides on the ZZ pattern disc and can push the driving arm to swing the VB and NB. For $6.99 you can download a copy of the original Service Manual at this link: manualsoncd.com/product/singer-400-series-service-and-repair-sewing-machine-manual/ It shows how to remove, replace, and adjust all those parts and many more on the machine. A small investment to avoid many hours of frustration, guessing, and mistakes that can make things worse. Good luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
I have been watching and learning so much from your video. Thank you for being so kind to share your knowledge. I have a Vintage Viking 5400. The straight stitches are slanted. Fine for piecing. But, not so fine for top stitching. Any thoughts on what I should be looking for? I don’t want to do something I can’t undo. Thank you.
Thanks for watching my channel. I don't know anything about other brands, only SInger machines. In general slanted stitches can be too large of a needle for the fabric, too long a stitch for the fabric, needle size and thread size do not match. Mechanical issues can be that the follower arm that rides along on the edge of the ZZ pattern disc or cams should be pulled completely away from the disc/cam when the machine is moved to straight stitch, but the follower is not moving completely away and slightly touched the disc/cam making a slightly slanted stitch. This can just be that the parts are dirty and need cleaning or from lack of oil on the moving parts (often a combination of both) On Singer machines there is a Needle Bar Driving Arm from the follower area to a Vibrating Bracket and that arm pushes the bracket to make the needle bar Zig, then a spring moves the bracket back the other way to make the Zag stitch. Again, if the bracket is dirty/sticky the NBDA may push it but the spring can pull it back to center afterward and it "wiggles" a little while sewing straight and makes that slanted look. I have found over the years that good cleaning and proper oiling will eliminate about 90%+ of the weird stitching problems on the SInger Machines. You know, I can't even find a picture of a "Viking 5400" sewing machine.
I have a 776 and the needle just started hitting metal down inside the bobbin area. Will finish watching your video and see if anything you show will fix this. Thx
Yes, you should be able to check/set the bar height using this video. Did you have a sudden stop while sewing? Other things to look for are: needle not installed properly, wrong type needle, bent needle, bent needle bar and lost timing between the needlepoint and hook point ( usually just referred to as "timing") Timing should be easy for you to check. It is basically, once the height is verified, you turn the handwheel toward you until the lower timing mark on the needle bar is even with the bottom of the bushing. The needle bar must be on the upward stroke, so when you turn the handwheel you first will see the upper timing mark and then a little more handwheel turn and the lower timing mark is there. At that moment the point of the hook should be directly behind the needlepoint and about 1/16" above the eye of the needle. If your hook is not there you have lost timing. You can buy a repair guide for your model from Terry at this website: site.tandtrepair.com/700TS.html You can also buy the service guide he wrote himself. If you do want to buy anything use coupon code andy-h-yt before 12/31/2019 and he will take 20% off whatever you buy. To get an idea of setting the timing on a geared machine you can watch this video: ruclips.net/video/oHGwdEcYGZo/видео.html Best of luck to you, Shady, and thanks for watching my channel.
Andy Tube thank you for your response. I will check these things out and let you know. Yes, it happened suddenly. I didn’t know if it has something to do with me oiling everything after it had been dormant for so long? I’m new to sewing and inherited 3 machines. So still learning. This particular machine, the 776, is a slant needle. Does that make a difference in any of the adjustments? The other 2 machines are a Singer Merritt 4530 and a Brother XL2022😃🧵✂️🧷🛠
OK, I asked about sudden stoppage b/c a thread jam can yank the needle bar, but it is rare it moves out of height. Hopefully when you oiled everything you DID NOT put any oil on those plastic gears. (no oil or grease on plastic gears) b/c oily gears could certainly slip during a sudden stop. Even just moving one gear tooth over you would lose timing. Usually, the gear would crack due to age, so do not be surprised if you find that. Hopefully, just a slip somewhere and it is something you can adjust back into place.
Andy Tube i have not removed the top yet, is that where the plastic gears are? Thank you for telling me that🤦♀️. I am going to try to work on it tonight and see what is going on.
The gears to the hook are on the bottom. When you said you oiled everything I assumed you oiled everything. Here is a link to the original Instruction Manual available free from Singer: www.singer.com/sites/default/files/product_manual/abbd2bd7616f2b26729a1f5800a872ec0dc41c5e_0.pdf Besides explaining all the operations of the machine there are instructions for removing the covers. There are not any oiling instructions which means if the owner did not take it to a service center the machine will be dry. The machine was made about 1976 so about 43 years ago. That's what I meant about gears cracking due to age. The fact that it is a slant needle does not matter as to the needle bar height or the hook timing.
Thanks for your videos. If possible, I would appreciate a video showing us how to adjust the needle bar and the crab on a Singer model 700 series Touch and sew machine.
Sorry, I don't have any Touch & Sew Models and do not work on them. Here is a link to the Guru of T&S models where you can buy and download repair and adjustors manuals. store.tandtrepair.com/tosew700se.html If you do, try coupon code andy-h-yt at checkout which may still give you a 20% discount. Thanks for watching my channel. BTW, by crab do you mean the feed dog? Just curious. Good luck.
Nice of you to comment. A strong, versatile model whit a known problem of the top gear breaking now at 50 years old. Hope yours is fine, but if in case here is the How-To video for replacing it: ruclips.net/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/видео.html Happy sewing, and thanks for watching my channel.
Marc Rauwel Thank you so much for your very interesting videos. Do you have informations on how to adjust the centering of the needle on the Singer 6235 model, called "Serenade 30" ?
Model 6235 is much newer than the models I've worked on. Made in Taiwan. You can buy & download a copy of the Service & Parts manual for $8.99 at this link: manualsoncd.com/product/singer-6235-sewing-machine-service-parts-manual/ SInger service manuals usually show all the available adjustments on the particular NB and how to remove & replace it. Thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you very much for your help. Recently, i had to change the feed drive gear (the long one), then after re-adjusted needle/hook and feed dog synchronisations, the machine is working ant seems correct but regularly is skipping one or two stitches on 30 cm long. This problem was not existing before removing the gear, so i wonder if it is necessary to change the clearance between needle and hook or something else must be checked before doing this ?
@@marcrauwel4792 wow, 30 cm is a very long stitch! I've never worked on this model, or any model with the plastic gears on the bottom so can really advise you other than when something like this happens I go over all the work I did and usually find the timing I set is a tiny bit off.
Thank you for this video. I gave a machine to a student and got it back because the needle is stuck to the very left about one centimeter. Stays way beyond where it should be and never moves back. I noticed that I will need to replace a gear which got broken in the process of whatever else jammed. Do you know how I can make the needle position switch work? THe part at 27 minutes, mine does not spring back and forth. Yikes.
A few possibilities of the cause. Vibrating bracket stuck with dried oil, needle bar driving arm jammed near cam stack, needle L-C-R bracket stuck or broken, etc. You can buy the service manual for $6.99 and download it here: manualsoncd.com/product/singer-400-series-service-and-repair-sewing-machine-manual/ The manual covers those types of adjustments and repair or replacements when needed. Sometimes a good cleaning and oiling are all that is needed, especially if the machine was idle for years/decades. The gear did not break from some precess, but because it is old and dried plastic. Regardless of the needle bar situation, the machine will never sew without a new gear, and replacing the gear may lead you to the NB problem. The new gear for the top of the vertical shaft is about $10 and here is a video showing how to replace it: ruclips.net/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/видео.html Good luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
Love your videos. You really help. Have a question about a New Home NLB sewing machine. Fixing for my sister. It was mom’s machine. It uses special needles which are no longer in production. I have read about adjusting the needle bar to use newer needles. 206-13 needle is just a little longer than the original size so my idea is to raise the needle bar by that amount. Is that the right idea? Thanks again for all your great information.
I've no idea of that machine, but I would be more tempted to shorten the new needle from the top by cutting or filing than changing the height. If "just a little longer" is 1/32 or less than maybe changing the height can work, but a longer needle is into the hook area longer time also, and will the scarf of the needle be at the correct height on the needle? The "scooped out" area on the back where the hook point flys by to grab the needle thread. Are the old and new eyes of the needle at the same height? If raising the needle bar works that is certainly easier way to go that modifying each needle. Mark the old needle bar height well so you can return it back if your plan does not work then give it a try. Just turn by hand the first time you try the new system in case the needle strikes the hook point of elsewhere. You're a creative thinker, Dave. Good Luck.
I do that for those that don't speak English. Next time try playing it at one and a half or two times speed and it won't bother you as much. Thanks for watching
Sorry, but the 7258 is about 30 years newer than what I work on. No worries though b/c you can go to this link and download a free copy of the 38-page Service Manual and the first section starts with how to remove the covers. I use these types of manuals for all the models I work on and they are quite helpful. Just use the smaller green "download" button above the manual name. Don't download anything else. You can even just read the manual online there if you do not want to download it. www.manualslib.com/manual/1850819/Singer-7285q.html#manual Thanks for watching my channel and good luck.
Hi! Sir andy thank you for your video to show is nice explanation .my problem is about the lock of my needle is loosen how to adjust. When I put a needle the needle is down it is not feet to her lock. Thank you ...
Lanie, did you know there is a Gib inside the end of the needle bar of model 457? It fits inside the needle clamp. When you put in a needle, the thumb screw pushes on the Gib and and the Gib squeezes the needle, If the Gib is missing then there is no way to tighten the needle. Here is what the Gib looks like: www.sewingpartsonline.com/needle-clamp-gib-singer-163822.aspx Here is a video of model 513 that has a Gib. The model 513 Gib is a different size than the Gib in the 457 but the video shows where the Gib fits: ruclips.net/video/qm-Qk3qk9GQ/видео.html Here is the video showing how to install it: ruclips.net/video/-FezmqypK6w/видео.html Take off your needle clamp and see if the Gib is there. I think it is missing. Good Luck
Thank you Andy! Super helpful! I have similar model as well. One question, after I changed gears and adjusted the timing, now my zigzag motion is not working anymore. Any ideas which part i messed up?
@@minniepat Model 418, OK. I've not worked on that one. ZZ systems are basically the follower at the cam stack, to the needle bar driving arm to the vibrating bracket that holds the needle bar. I don't know the process you used to change the gear (I'm assuming the top gear of the vertical shaft) or the parts you removed to do that. When I get a machine that won't ZZ I usually start at the stitch width lever and follow the motion to the needle bar. When I move the lever to the widest ZZ stitch can I see the follower swing over and rest on the pattern disc. Is the follower still connected to the NB driving arm at the bottom? Is the NB Driving arm still attached to the Vibrating Bracket? What came apart or is loose or even has a screw or Cir-Clip missing. I suggest this: send an email to andymanuals53@gmail.com Put "Singer Model 418" in the subject line. In the Narrative area put "ATTN: ALAN" INVOICE AT10042023- NC" When Alan gets the email he will send you a copy of the Parts Manual and the Service Manual for your machine. Hopefully, that can help you isolate where the problem is. Alan will not charge you but will send the invoice to me. That's the best I can do today. Good Luck
@@andytubesewing1953 You are the best! I mean it!!!! Thank you so much, your channel helped me a lot and you are awesome addressing our questions! Can't thank you enough!
Maybe this one: ruclips.net/video/c1YhfFqeuVI/видео.html Part of this 27-video playlist for model 403A: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKKyqvdDRwS-9MfLuwSNJTcg Some videos for the 401A: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO 21 videos for the 503A: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX A complete 56-video tutorial for model 404: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIB4kvIHCfHYuyLMUp5A4UI Thanks for watching my channel and good luck.
I'm glad you liked it. Yes, I go slower for people who don't speak English as a first language, but you can always speed up the playback speed in the settings. Thanks for the comment and happy sewing!
Hi, Andy. Would you do a video on adjusting the needle bar on 201-2. I just bought one and I placed a brand new, unbent needle in it I noticed the needle is very close to the needle plate hole on the left. Thank you in advance.
I do not have a 201-2 so I can not accommodate your request. The service manual does not show any adjustment to center the needle in the needle plate hole so you have an unusual problem. Things that may cause your problem are dirt or grit inside the needle clamp that is making the needle crooked. You can clean the needle clamp by lowing the needle bar (no needle) into a small cup of alcohol and soaking it for a while to soften any dried dirt or oil, then gently cleaning inside with a toothpick or similar. -:--->>> The manual also shows there is a small part on the end of the needle bar that fits inside the needle clamp that is called a GIB & Thread guide. The GIB part fits up inside the bottom of the needle bar and needle clamp, on the left side and the thread guard is a curled wire from the GIB to guide the thread on the way to the needle. You can see a reproduction of that part here: --www.vintagesingerparts.com/products/original-singer-needle-clamp-fits-models-15-86-15-87-15-88-15-90-15-91-201-1-201-2-201k?_pos=1&_sid=de5b17cf7&_ss=r-- The GIB part is what the needle camp thumb screw pushes the needle into to hold it. If that part is missing on your machine the thumbscrew will push your needle to the left side of the hole in the needle bar and then the needle will not be centered over the hole of the needle plate. Do you have that part on your needle bar/clamp?
Thanks again Andy. So I have a treadle Necchi BU Nova and the screw for the needle bar is on the side and access is through a hole on the body of the machine. But the bar is stuck. I got the screw off but can’t see inside if it’s got gunk in it. Can I still put WD40 or rubbing alcohol in it if I’m not sure how well I can clean it?
I don't know much about the Necchi machines, but a stuck needle bar is common on all brands. I've had some tight places to work with, and I do still use WD40 or Alcohol or even Keresene to loosen old dried-up oil on parts. Please consider using a hairdryer to heat the parts as that can also help. As far as clean up afterward, I'll use Q-tips, of course, but also strips of old t-shirts I poke into the areas with a wood BBQ stick or similar. Those cotton rags are great for soaking up the liquids you put in and collecting a lot of the grease and gunk. When I'm finished with my cleaning and adjusting I put Sewing Machine Oil (SMO) on the parts and it is one of the very few times I will over oil it somewhat. Then I repeat the cotton swabs and rags to remove the excess oil. Although I've never seen an NBN in person I've always heard it's a very nice model, so congrats and happy sewing.
I'm trying to set the needle bar on a singer simple. I doesn't have any marks on the needle bar as you describe and it also doesn't have a set screws for the hook. The timing is off due to rough treatment from kids sewing on it. Any help or tips you may have would be much appreciated!
Not so simple, huh? That machine is a few decades newer than what I work on, but the principle of hook-to-needle timing has been the same on every machine I've worked on. That principle is that after the needle has bottomed out and is on the way BACK UP the point of the hook should be directly behind the needle. The reason is that as the needle starts up the fabric drags on the needle thread and that creates a tiny "loop" of thread for the hook point to grab. At that start back up point, the EYE of the needle should be barely BELOW the hook point. (b/c the loop forms ABOVE the eye). If you can turn the handwheel towards you until the hook point and needlepoint line up, then raise or lower the needlepoint until the eye of the needle is between 1/16 and 1/8 inch below the hook point and tighten it there. You should at least be close to having it timed. You may have to tweak the height a little up or down, but thread the needle and turn the handwheel to see if you can catch the needle thread. That's the approach I would try.
@@andytubesewing1953 thanks for the clarification. What I am not sure about is how to identify the set screws for the hook. I see about 1/4-1/2" gap between the hook and the scarf of the needle at it's closest approach. The hook off. I know that at one point the woman who was using this machine was aggressive with replacing the needle and had "shoved" the needle past the needle bar stop. So the needle bar needs to be adjusted also. I really want to save this machine from the landfill if I can. The motor seems fine. I appreciate all your time and attention!
@@KenEmbree yeah I wish I could advise you more but it's way too new of a machine on the older ones. We could search by model number and often find a service manual or at least a parts manual to help us at manuals on CD.com. but I don't know it if singer even does that for this new of a machine. I think they just break and get tossed. Sorry to say
My needle is stuck to the far left, when I try to flip the dial to center it won’t unless my stitch spacing is at 5, then it will the moment I switch my stitch space back to zero it pulls the needle back to the far left again. Any ideas? It is old I replaced some parts following your instruction but now I’ve found this issue.
Maybe replacing parts caused something? Sorry, I can't diagnose something like this by the comment sections. What I can do is give you free copies of the Service Manual and Parts Schematic. Maybe that can guide you to a solution. If you want those send an email to andymanuals53@gmail.com and ask for Simger Model 457K Documents. I'll have Alan reply with PDF copies of the manuals for no charge.
Do you have any tutorials for singer 648. I bought from this guys he took it apart and didnt know how to put it back together i got most of it pit back im just left with one gear left idk were it goes
Sorry, Marco, I do not have videos for the 648 model. I don't really work on the Touch & Sew models. However, you can download a free copy of the Parts Diagram for model 648 at this link: www.maquinasuniao.com.br/wp-content/themes/maquinas-uniao/catalogos/loop-85/Singer%20648E3,%20648E6,%20646E7.pdf The machine has many parts that must be adjusted to spec, such as needle bar height, presser bar height, hook to needle timing, feed timing, cam stack timing, thread tension assembly stroke & tension, etc. so if you need help after assembly you can buy a Service Manual for $8.99 and download it here: manualsoncd.com/product/singer-630-648-sewing-machine-service-manual/ Good luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
Hello Andy... How are you? You made me laugh SOOOO MUCH when i reached 43:28 mn of this video ... :-) i like your DETAILED instructions ... i guess your initial job was a teacher... weren't you? THANK YOU FOR YOUR VERY HELPFUL VIDEOS... Much luck to you ! Will continue watching ... maybe i'll find a solution to a same problem with my machine ...
My main career was as a telecommunications tech. I did do teaching and training and mentoring during that career and enjoyed it very much. I enjoyed your comment very much also, thank you. You also have this Modell 457? Thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 So i guessed it ALMOST right :-) ... My machine is a Chinese ''imitation' of the industrial singer 20 u 43 ... Will try setting the stitch length nob to zero and try again . Thank you for replying .
@@chuckcamacho9970 It's a small world, Chuck. Congrats on your retirement 😀 I tried to transfer from Mountain Bell to Pacific Bell, San Diego, in 1983. An area manager in the OSP Engineering Dept wanted me for my experience in doing Cental Office Cut Over to #1 ESS. The union objected b/c I was from another company and they wanted an existing PacTel employee to fill the job. Ended up staying in Phoenix, Metro area thru the 1984 Bell System Breakup the DOJ ordered, then US WEST was formed. Stayed there when Qwest Communications bought us. Century Link pays my Pension now, but I just got a letter that it is changing to LUMEN soon. As long as I get my pension it is OK with me. Hope you are staying sane and out of trouble. Thanks for watching my channel. Take care.
Andy, how do you reset needle bar on a Brother SQ9285? Needle is rubbing plate towards me. I went over a cargo pants seam while putting on a patch. Now timing off and needle off. Lori
Sorry Lori, I don't know anything about brother branded machines. I only work on singer. However, when you mentioned the cargo pants scene and you lost the timing, what I have found on my machines is the needle can be bent even a tiny bit and or the whole needle bar was pushed up a tiny bit and that would cause a loss of timing. You may be able to find a service manual for your machine at manuals on CD.com and search for the model number of your brother. I bought a lot of singer manuals there and they're reasonable price. Sorry I can't help you more oh by the way, if you look at my homepage, I have a playlist with several videos about setting the needle bar height just like this video you commented on, but some different models of singer. But again, I have no idea about brother
It is always nice when a viewer takes time to tell me a video helped. That is what my channel is about. So, Arlene, thank you very much. If you have this 457 model, here are some other videos about it >> ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKK9GeuGLCo6ZyWv-HbheRVK You may want to bookmark the gear replacement video (8) as the chances are you will need it someday. I hope never, but experience tells me someday.
The hexagon bolt is part no. 51408. it is 11/64th inch with 40 TPI (threads per inch) and used SInger Tap TE538 and shows no alternate tap available (when my screw chart was made back in 19??) The same part was used on these model numbers 327K, 328K, 337K, 338K. 347, 348, 457. I don't think you could walk into a hardware store and find it; maybe. It's the type of parts I find usually find on Thriftyfarmgirl.com or eBay. It is part of either the vibrating bracket or the needle bar driving arm and you do not see many of those for sale b/c hardly anyone buys them. I've had better luck contacting a seller who has parts for sale from one of those models and asking for the part, sometimes emailing them a picture of where the part is on the machine. An example is someone selling the needle bar of a 457K. That's easy to remove so they take it off and sell it. If I contact them they likely have the VB and will sell me the hexagon bolt, maybe $5 or $6 + postage. They know it must be hard to find or I would not have asked for it, haha. The first place I look for parts like this is thriftyfarmgirl.com and if Connie has it she will post it for sale and email me that it's available. Good Luck and thanks for watching my channel.
Andy Tube I have the replacement screw but can’t seem to get it into position. The head of the screw is to thick to fit in the appropriate slot. Suggestions?
@@tanyarichey In your original comment I assumed your machine is a model 457 as in the video. Is that correct? If your replacement screw is part 51408 I don't know why it would not fit. Where did you find the part? Can you show me a link to where you bought it? Would you like to send pictures/videos to show me the problem? andytube53@gmail.com
Andy Tube It is the right screw, thank you. The problem is trying to fit it into the tight space where it belongs. The L C R bar doesn’t extend out far enough past the metal machine casing in order for me to get a straight shot to insert the screw. I hope that makes sense.
@@tanyarichey It's always something, as they say. OK, I get it now. You can loosen a tiny set screw on the front of the vibrating bracket and pull up and out a hinge pin/stud that holds a part that your new screw connects through. I'm thinking that you could then push that part to the left away from the side of the machine far enough to get your screw through the needle bar driving arm and into the part. After that, you can replace the part with the hinge pin. Whew! That's hard to imagine I think (I heard that!) So take a look starting about 28:50 of this video, ruclips.net/video/tw-Y3V_LrnA/видео.html I show removing the hinge pin and you'll see the part and NBDR is loose and a little floppy. I think this will work, but if not I have a three-part video series about replacing that whole needle bar driving bracket on a similar model. I also can share a service manual for model 457 about removing the needle bar driving arm at the other end, by the cam stack. I really think pulling the hinge pin is the easiest way forward. Of course, I'll be on tenterhooks until I hear what happens, but don't mind me; I just here for the entertainment factor 😀 Good Luck, T Richey.
Singer Model 298 is a high-end fashion Model from about 1980. I've never seen one in person or worked on one. There are multiple settings for various stitching situations available on the model. Other than the obvious of having the foot turned off-center and not straight, the best place to start is with cleaning and oiling. There are 40 oiling points on model 298! The 100-page Instruction Manual has information for cleaning and oiling and it has several pages showing the correct machine settings for the type of stitch and patterns that can be sewn. If you need a copy of the manual you can download if for free from Singer at this link: www.singer.com/search/support?title=298
Below RUclips videos is an area called the "Description" where we put information in for the viewer. In the description for this video, it says this adjustment is the same for several models, including your 413. You're good. BTW, I do have a Playlist specifically for model 413, but maybe you already saw that: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKKVlkxPT9FMTdvUUGj8Ydf8
@@andytubesewing1953 yes sir I did! I have saved them all now I’m fixing to sit down and watch them all lol I did see where the 413 was included with quite a few others that you mentioned in that video. When I went to look inside I saw that particular gear looks pretty much intact. It does look dry so I didn’t know whether I should just go ahead and apply the grease or should I try to prep it before I do that? That gear sure reminded me of one of those touch and sew machines I tried to work on once upon a time🤦♀️🤣
@@rhondamercado7527 Well, I've been fooled by a few of the "OK-looking" gears. They broke as soon as I started using the machine. They do get dry and very brittle. Remember, your machine may have been sitting for years or a couple of decades. I hope your is fine, but be careful. About grease on the gears. I don't do it b/c both the retired Singer repairmen told me never put grease on plastic gears, or oil on plastic parts. Many people will argue with me about that and claim there are many "safe" grease nowadays, like the synthetic Tri-Flow that are "safe" for plastic. To each their own. Good luck, Rhonda, thanks for saving another machine, and please have lots of fun.
@@rhondamercado7527 It's up to you. As I said, many viewers disagree with me on that and say that synthetic grease (no petroleum content) is safe for plastic. I did not put any grease on the new gears I installed but some folks do. Maybe your gear is OK and no worries for you.
I got my Singer 201K (aluminum Body) all cleaned up and running. Went to put in the Needle, and it won't go it. What could that be? Doesn't appear to be a broken Needle inside. I'm super frustrated! Any ideas ? This is the LAST step to get her sewing again, after having been abandoned for years and years.
Was there a needle in the needle clamp before? I've never even seen a 201, but the manual says it takes a 15 x 1 class of needle so be sure you have that. The flat side of the top of the needle must face to the left when you insert the needle into the clamp. The service manual shows a combination gib and thread guide is inside the needle clamp at the end of the needle bar. Is your gib/guide still in place? Did you remove the needle bar/clamp for cleaning? you can see the service manual here: issuu.com/davidmannock/docs/singer_201_service-adjuster_27s_man and on page 56 (of the actual manual) you'll see instructions for installing the gib/guide into the needle clamp and bar.
Just got this machine? There could be a jam in the parts inside the nose, but if the machine has been sitting a very long time chances are oil has dried into a hard varnish inside the presser bar bushing. That is the hole the bottom of the presser bar goes thru on the bottom of the nose. There is a metal tube inside called a bushing. With the bar going thru there is just enough space for it to move up and down. Oil settles inside there and gets hard, like glue almost. Using a penetrating oil, or alcohol dripped into the bushing you can soften the old gunk up. You can also heat the area with a heat gun or I use a hairdryer. Don't force the lifter lever b/c you can bend internal parts, just take the nose cover and arm cover off to work on it. To see what all those parts are like and how they work, here is my video on a similar model, the 513. I think it has the same presser bar system. ruclips.net/video/EwSU1xGS5f0/видео.html Oh, and turn the pressure dial to 1 or "D" to have the least amount of pressure on the spring while you are doing this. Patience can be the charm for dried-up stuck parts. Drip in the softener and do something else for a while as it works. Reading the manual is a good idea. Free copy from Singer at this link: www.singer.com/search/support?title=418 Thanks for watching my channel and good luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 thank you for the help I really appreciate it. I got it moving but the foot is not pressing on the fabric enough even on the highest pressure setting. Your video is great!
@@leslieolmstead82 The presser bar pressure dial may be installed incorrectly. The presser bar may not be set at the proper height. With the presser bar lifted and the feed dog below the needle plate, the height of the bottom of the presser foot above the top of the needle plate should be .290 to .300 inches. That's a little over 4 US quarter dollars. The feed dog may be adjusted too low. At stitch length 12 and the handwheel turned so the feed dog is at its highest point, the bottom of the "V" between the teeth of the feed dog should be barely above or equal to the top of the needle plate slot. That puts the top of the teeth between .040 to .045 inches above the needle plate. I think it's time you take a look at the Service Manual for your machine. It is 40 pages long and contains all the adjustment, removal, and installation instructions for the parts on your machine. Easy to follow with pictures of the work and step-by-step instructions. You can buy and download a PDF copy of the manual here for $8.99 manualsoncd.com/product/singer-416-418-sewing-machine-service-manual/ If printed manuals work better for you you can sometimes find them for sale on eBay and other online providers for about twice that much.
Hi Andy, I have a Singer 636 machine with problem's. I can't seem to get the needle to go right or left by moving the needle position lever. Have any thing I could try?
Wondering if this is a new machine for you. Often problems like this go away with a nice complete oiling as shown in the Instruction Manual on pages 69 -72 You can download a free manual here if needed. www.singer.com/search/support?title=636 The position lever moves some parts nest to the cam stack inside and positions the needle bar driving arm that goes into the nose end and moves the bracket that holds the needle bar. All those parts need oil to work properly. If the oiling is not enough to solve the problem you may have a/some worn or damaged parts, but unless someone got inside with screwdrivers and wrenches, it is most likely a cleaning/oiling problem. You can buy a copy of the complete service manual from Terry if you like. I recommend it when you plan on keeping the machine. He will give you $2 off the $10 price if you use my coupon code of andy-h-yt before the end of 2021. Here is the page for it store.tandtrepair.com/sm630.html Service Manuals show how to adjust, remove, and replace parts on the machine.
Hello. can you tell me please what what be the reason for a loose shank/needle bar if i touch it . it moves from side to side. all so if when i am sewing and leave needle down to turn the work the loose shank/needle bar will move to one side. i have been trying to find out what is causing this with no joy. so i am not using my machine until i can find out. my machine is an Elna 6600. Thank you.
Sorry, Hazel. I can't help you with an Elna machine. I've never worked on one. You may want to buy the Service/Parts Manual for it. 40 pages of service instructions + 18 pages for parts diagrams. You can download it here for $7 manualsoncd.com/product/elna-6600-sewing-machine-service-parts-manual/ Good Luck.
Sorry, I don't have a clue about that model; way too modern. No documents in my files. I only found one source for a Service Manual, $15 to download if it is the machine you are talking about thesilkpincushionboutique.com/product/service-manual-singer-fashion-mate-5000-6100-series-sewing-machine/ ( I've never used this source) In general terms, the vintage Singers I have worked on have the timing marks. I will say after the height is set, and the handwheel is turned to the front a tiny amount to line up the lower timing mark, the eye of the needle is about 1/16 inch above the point of the hook when the hook point is exactly behind the needle. That is where things sit for correct timing. I suppose you could have the needle bar on the upward stroke and when the hook is behind the needle and the eye is 1/16 inch above that hook point you could tighten the needle bar at that height. The eye must be there so the hook can catch the needle thread (timing) hope that makes sense to you. Here is a timing video ruclips.net/video/qMOa5QP71as/видео.html
@@andytubesewing1953 finally purchased the manual from the link you provided. Looks like it lays enough out I'll be able to repair several machines I inherited. Thanks 👍
To the best of my knowledge Singer model 241-11 is an Industrial High-Speed Straight Stitch model, up to 5000 stitches per minute. It does not have zigzag so there is no vibrating bracket to use for centering the needle. If your needle bar is out of center it could be bent, or the Needle Bar Connecting Link could be bent or installed wrong. You can get the manual free from this link: www.manualslib.com/download/364493/Singer-241.html it includes some adjustments and maintenance information, but only shows how to set the height of the needle bar. You can also download the 55-page parts list & diagram for the machine if you think seeing the parts can help you: www.manualslib.com/download/153988/Singer-241-11.html I have not & do not work on Industrial Models, but the above info is freely available online. Good luck.
Hi Andy I have a Singer 9015 which does not have the two lines on the needle bar how can I check the height adjustment as I cant see any lines around the needle bar.is there any other way to check height. cheers Tony
Sorry, Marthese. I have no experience with the 9015 model. Too new. No one I checked with has a service manual for it that usually shows how to time the machine. In general, you can do the method backward. When the needle bar is going up and the hook is behind the needle the hook point should be about 1/16" above the eye of the needle. If not, raise or lower the needle bar until it is. Here is an explanation for timing: m.wikihow.com/Adjust-Sewing-Machine-Timing and a video that may help you determine if your timing is the problem: ruclips.net/video/ZsebAKZxmU0/видео.html That's all I can suggest, Good Luck.
I thought I’d watch this video for my new 513 problem. When turning the wheel towards me to bring up the bobbin thread, the needle is hitting something under the plate. It doesn’t happen when moving forward so I tried to sew and the sounds scared me, not to mention it didn’t sew. Help! 😂
You can slide the bobbin cover plate open and turn the handwheel by hand slowly. As soon as the needle "hits something" stop and lift the fabric to see what it hits. You can even do this without thread or fabric. What is under there is the hook and if the needle is hitting the hook that is the classic sign that the machine lost timing. Timing is when the needlepoint and hook point line up (to grab the needle thread from the needle) On a machine like the 513 the most common cause of timing loss is a failing gear. If even a couple teeth on a gear crack off you will lose timing. Are you sure the gears are OK? One of the videos I listed for you before was about changing the gear and RESETTING the timing (he calls is synchronizing) ruclips.net/video/0HirFoVVoxY/видео.html If you'd care to learn how timing works, I have 16 timing videos here: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKLk_Q_6w0UjhnQUgi7Iy3K7
@@andytubesewing1953 i didn’t watch these because the gears look great but maybe there’s a defect I can’t see. I’ll watch these specific videos. Thank you so much. You are a treasure.
@@christinebond1102 I've also service models like this where someone put a new gear on but did not understand timing. When the machine would not sew they brought it to be fixed, gave it away, or threw it out.
@@andytubesewing1953 we are going to order gears but wonder is there a special Allen wrench to use to turn these tiny holes all around? My husband has a ton of them and none fit .
@@christinebond1102 Wow, that's a lot of Allen Wrenches 😀Sorry, I don't know the exact size. I'm guessing he has SAE wrenches. The 513s I worked on were made in Canada and I think they use Metric sizes there. I have a set with both types and I just use whatever fits and pay no attention to size or type. Maybe he has Metric and the hole is SAE size... you get the idea.
Your surely can! Any penetrating oil can be used. Just remember when you finish to wipe it all off and oil the machine with SMO (Sewing Machine Oil) WD40 is NOT a lubricant and will not protect the parts.
Singer model 457 uses the following needles: TYPE 15X1 SIZES 9, 11, 14, 16, 18 for fabrics. TYPE 15X2 sizes 11, 14, 16 for leather. TYPE 2028 TWIN NEEDLE SIZE 14 for sewing double-thread stitches. You may be interested in downloading a FREE copy of the instruction manual for the SINGER Support page at this link: www.singer.com/search/support?title=457 Good luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
I've always had a light scraping noise from the bobbin area, and watching this I've noticed that the rotating hook part deflects the needle towards me before the hook reaches behind the needle. Am I correct that the needle needs moving forward towards me a little so it doesnt scrape and get deflected? I'm guessing it is to protect the hook from the needle going too far back?
Correct. The needle shouldn't scrape on anything. If it "zings" against the hook it may be a bent needle (always test with a new needle before adjusting) or the needle bar has "drifted" towards the hook and can be adjusted. You do not mention if the needle is centered in the hole of the needle plate as I show in the video. Sometimes people have lost the straight stitch needle plate (or never had it) and only have the multi-purpose or ZigZag plate. You can still adjust it with the ZZ plate, it's just a little trickier. BTW, if the machine is sewing a beautiful stitch, most techs would not change anything. On some machines, techs were known to adjust it that way on purpose to prevent skipping on that particular machine due to the hook bushing being off or even the needle bar being slightly bent. Again, always test with a new needle and be sure it is inserted 100% up into a clean needle clamp before you decide to make any adjustments. The Rocketeer models 500A & 503A were adjusted this way ( a very slight "zinggg" from the needle) on purpose to correct a hook variance.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks for the reply. I only have a zig zag plate, and in this the (fresh) needle isn't centered perfectly left-right, but I dont have a thin spanner so it will have to do for now as it sews ok. With your instructions I've got the front/back centered better now and not scraping. I actually found this video because I was having a nightmare with random bunching and skipped stitches, and I thought it was the needlebar being set too far forward and catching on a few different low shank presser feet I got from ebay. Turns out the needle was actually too far back and scraping on the hook mechanism, and instead the feet sit about a mm back from the centre of the needle plate. This meant the needle or thread always slightly caught on the front of the foot's needle gap and caused all sorts of trouble. But this means my Singer 457 doesn't seem to work with low shank feet like it should (excluding the zig zag it came with), even trying feet from different ebayers. I guess I'll have to take a file to them and make the needle gap a little bigger on the front to clear the needle.
@@sew2000 Nice progress! I was looking thru the Service Manual for your model to get the "gap" setting between the hook point to needlepoint. It's .000 to .002" Whew! Very close. Befor3 I found a straight stitch needle plate, I used this setting and a feeler gauge to set it. You can buy a Service Manual for only $7 here: manualsoncd.com/product/singer-400-series-service-and-repair-sewing-machine-manual/ If you plan on keeping the machine I'd recommend it. Good Luck going forward.
I'm sorry but I know nothing about "Omega" sewing machines. Timing of the needlepoint to hook point follows the same principle on most sewing machines. Here is a playlist of 15 of my timing videos ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKLk_Q_6w0UjhnQUgi7Iy3K7 maybe one of my machines will be similar to your Omega. Thanks for watching my channel. Good Luck.
Vous pouvez ouvrir les sous-titres codés sur n'importe laquelle de mes vidéos et changer la langue en français. Voici les instructions si vous en avez besoin. ruclips.net/video/jUSCUsCkQ8Y/видео.html S'il vous plaît, aidez-vous et profitez du spectacle. Je vous remercie.
Gracias por su crítica de mi estilo de video Sr. González. Cuando hagas un video mejor, asegúrate de hacérmelo saber. De esa manera puedo aprender a tratar de ayudar adecuadamente a las personas impacientes y groseras, como tú.
Regarding the issue with the spanner, I looked in the UK at the cost of the spanner that you mention and it costs a small fortune over here. I couldn't find anything similar that was sold without it being in a very expensive set, so I asked round everyone I knew to see if anyone had a spare 7mm spanner (I only had a closed ended one) and then asked a favour of a neighbour and got them to grind it to a thin spanner. It works a treat. Thanks for the details on the type of spanner needed.
You're very creative, Kerry. Hats off to you for finding a good, affordable alternative. I pinned your comment for others to see first in case they want to follow your idea. Thanks for sharing it, and for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 It has been watching your videos Andy that has given me inspiration: you are a gift from the Gods. Thank You!
I just wanted to say how much I appreciate your clear enunciation and explanation of everything. Thank you!
I appreciate your nice comment. It's kind of you to take the time to leave it. Hope all is well now and happy sewing!
Oh wow Andy! I found a beautiful blue 348 yesterday and the needle is going way to the left, hitting the plate, so I went searching and I found this video! This model looks identical to the 348. Now let me go finish watching the video. I hope it works for me….fingers crossed.
It's a beautiful machine. I think you probably have it fixed by now, but check your email anyway. Thanks for saving another one.
Thank you Sir for sharing.... your directions helped me fix my needle positioning
Welcome and happy to hear of your success. Thanks.
Thank you so much for explaining in details. Fixing up an old husqvarna optima 120 that I got for free. Its in really good shape too. Just the typical locked up parts after being stuffed deep inside a closet for years. I was so confinced it was the needle bar that needed adjustment. Took a closer look at the pressure bar after watching your video, and found a locked up pressure bar guide. Thank you for the help ❤
Of course you're welcome. But really, I'm thinking you because I had no idea that a video of mine could apply to a machine like that. I guess the basic principle of sewing machines is the same, though it's really kind of you to leave a message like this. I appreciate it and happy sewing!
@@andytubesewing1953 it may help that I have some technical education. Also grew up with a tinkering father, so ended up being it too XD Guess that helps me understand more in depth how stuff works.
@@thetigerthedragon6806 That's fortunate. I'm kind of hoping somebody else gives you a free machine heard from so many viewers on my channel that have fixed the machine where two or three and say it's one of the most rewarding things they've ever done. Kind of addicting which is okay because the machines are worth saving. I still think you're a natural if you could apply my video to your machine that was really nicely done
@@andytubesewing1953 tx :) its usally really rewarding when you are able to fix something. Especially when it saves you, or a friend a lot of money.
This is great! My needle was hitting the plate after I got it all jammed up with thread and fabric. I only have the multi purpose plate. It does not hit anymore, because i changed needles but makes an odd sound. Works but...Wondering if something got bent. Thank you so much! Not an old machine, but love learning.
Thanks for working on the machine. Best of luck to you.
Andy, Your videos are very thorough! I used to part time repair sewing machines from 1978-1980 for a Singer store while going to college. I repaired one just like this one and it was working perfect. The following Saturday I was working and I heard a lady loudly yelling at the manager that her machine was not right. He brought her to the used machine area and asked what kind of machine she had. She pointed at a 400 series. The manager asked what the problem was. Her reply, "It sews little bitty stitches that are very close together". He asked, "Did you adjust the stitch length regulator over hear?" Response, "I never touch that! He should have left that alone". The manager came back to see me. He said, "the real problem is she sews for people for her living."
🤣 Thanks for sharing this, Kevin. It brightened my day. It kind of reflects on the lost sewing skills here when a person who "sew for a living" doesn't understand the stitch length feed regulator. I have found younger people to be quite interested in vintage machines and learning to sew; all the more so during this pandemic, and I'm really happy about that. Hope you stop by again sometime. Take care.
I bought my 457 a while back. Finally tried it out and pow the top vertical gear crumbled. After searching I found this jewel of a man, AndyTube. I’m sorry he is gone now 😢 but hopefully his great tutorials will help many more people like me,,,who made three attempts at getting the timing precisely set,, continue enjoying the vintage Singers. ❤
Welcome to my Andy Tube Channel, Brenda. I appreciate that you have saved that nice machine and left a comment.🙏 You're very kind, and thanks for watching my channel. Take care.
@@andytubesewing1953 I know you’re not making videos anymore but I’d just like to say, I love your style of explaining how to fix our machines. I enjoy working on them and using them too. Happy Thanksgiving to you and your family 🦋
@@BrendaRWyatt Brenda, you're words are a blessing ✨✨to me tonight. Happy Thanksgiving to you and yours. God Bless.
Hi Andy.. Thank you for this and all of your videos. I have been learning sewing machine repair for a couple of years now, and I am always running into issues. Many times, I have found the answer, watching your videos. I have started just letting them play on loop, while I work... hoping to absorb some of your knowledge. Please, continue making the videos and helping me learn.
I'm humbled you watch so many; thank you. With all the new activity of people sewing during the pandemic, there is a big demand for vintage machine repair. I don't do it any longer, but judging by the many requests I get for it I could be making a decent living from it. I'm always happy hearing people are fixing and maintaining their own machines, or family members' machines, so hearing of someone doing it more often is a bonus for me. I wish you all the success in the world. Even as a hobby it is a very rewarding experience.
You know where to reach me if I can help. Thanks for sharing on my comment section and take care.
I'm loving this 457 series, it's really helped me appreciate and understand this model. Really hope you are successful fixing the feed dog drop because mine is stuck too...counting on you Andy! :-) Your videos are like a library of vintage sewing machine knowledge, thanks so much for taking the time to share what you have learned.
Hey, if your happy, I'm happy :) Thanks for watching and stay tuned for the feed throw-out video.
Thank you Andy Tube! Found I had a twisted presser foot which was causing problems! Got everything centered and runs like a dream now! You are the best!
Nicely done, Steven. Happy sewing. and thanks for watching my channel.
Sir, I love your precise instructions. After changing out the top shaft gear following your long video on doing so and timing, I find that I have a new issue. The needle position will not stay in place. For example moving the lever all the way to the right almost centers the needle but it will not stay. I can easily move the needle bar from side to side manually. Have you any instruction on this adjustment or repair?
I've never had this problem so have not dealt with it before. I'm guessing the spring came loose to the selector lever or a partial disengagement of the needle bar driving arm to the needle position lever bracket. That is a WAG though (wild ass guess 😃)
I have the original Service Manual for this class of machine (96 pages) and am happy to share it with you if you'd email to andymanuals53@gmail.com Please put "SM MODEL 457" in the Subject Line and I will let Allan know to send it to you no charge 💖
Your explanation and video and snap shots of everything was so good. Thank you so much for taking the time to teach so many. God bless you.
Thank you for the recognition. I'm hoping my videos will help & encourage folks to keep their machine in service. Take care.✨
Thank you so much Andy for such detailed instructions. Even though i couldn't find the corresponding gage on my Janome 3160 your video instructions confirmed that the needle us set way far back. I would have liked to learn how to fix it myself as i live in the jungle and getting to professionals is a project on its own, still with your video i am at least comfortable that the problem is identified. Thank you so much
Thank you for the kind remarks. I don't know anything about your machine because I only work on vintage singers but when I run into a problem I try and find a service manual because they usually will have instructions for these kind of adjustments. I think I found your manual at a website i use frequently. Although the cost is about $9, it may be worth it to you. Take a look and see what you think; manualsoncd.com/product/janome-3160qdc-sewing-machine-service-parts-manual/ Good luck and thanks for watching my channel
Thank you for this video. I thought I was going to have to take my sewing machine apart because my needle bar was off center, but it was actually just a settings thing that you showed.
Welcome. I'm glad you found the video and thanks for keeping your machine in service. Nicely done.
Hi Andy. It was unexpected fun to see you recognize me and my husband regarding that thin wrench. It was even better to see you use it in the video. I am very much enjoying your new videos on the 457. Using the hole on the straight stitch plate seems much easier to use to center the needle than removing the feed dogs, using the feeler gauges, etc. However, I looked at my feeler gauges, and I have a .0015 in feeler gauge, which should be perfect to measure the hook to needle distance if I go that route. I had already done a top gear replacement using your reference from "singersewinginfo" from your first video on the 457, however, I watched every minute of this video. Some things I learned: It's okay if the vertical shaft drops too much, just push it back. I wondered what those two weird oil holes near the faceplate and on the bed go; I now know they oil that shaft. Look twice before you put back the pulley that goes on the hook on the bottom of the machine--on my first attempt to replace the top gear, I did put that gear on upside down. Not until I compared it with another 457 did I realize my mistake; I think I didn't figure this out for at least a week--it doesn't run very well with it on upside down! Thanks again for all your videos--I'm looking forward to one, if you do it, on that little feed dog knob.
I was hoping you would see the video. I loved using this new thin wrench. WOW! So easy. I'm glad you liked the video and I am currently filming the feed throw-out video. Coming soon!
Hi Andy, I am another grateful viewer, it so happens that I have a 411G model, and it doesn't have that adjusting screw, my needle was actually hitting the hook mechanism. I was racking my brain trying to see how could I adjust it until it dawned on me that the needle was out of position because the screw that holds the thread guide on the needle bar was off, as soon as i put the screw back in, the needle fell into place. Thank you so much for being in inspiration to many of us to search a little further. May God Bless you always
Very kind of you to leave this nice comment. Thank you. I have only seen pictures of the German Made Slant machines, including the 411G. I am glad you figured the needle out. Thank you for watching muy channel.
Hi Andy, I discovered quite by accident that if you loosen the screw opposite the screw that holds the center, left and right lever, you can adjust the needle bar quite easily to the left or right for center the retighten the screw. It may not be the "correct" way but it worked for me. When I was replaceing the upper gear I wanted more room for my fingers so ,I had intended to remove the lever and bracket so I could get in there with a little more ease. When I began to loosen that screw I noticed some movement , made a mental note and screw it back tight. I didnt want to hzve to fix at that time anymore than that gear. I did notice when I was done and tried the machine out tgat it looked like the meedle was not on center, while watchi g your video the mental note I made came up and I unscrewed that screw and noticed I could move the needle bar left or right..so I centered it, tightend it and I was done.
thanks for sharing. Hope it works out for you. Take Care.
@@andytubesewing1953 I just watched the video on model 338, I think I got lucky.
Hi. My wife has a 1.5 year old singer 4452, and the needle bar is seized. Loosening the clamp (the one that was seized on your machine) lets me move the handwheel fine then. The needle bar is seized at the bushings for sure. I have a tiny bit of movement up and down (maybe 1/8") and a little twisting motion.
The next step would be to probably get some cleaning fluids into the bushings? Anti seize, degreaser, alcohol, kerosene maybe? Haven't spent much time on it yet. Will try and troubleshoot more when i finish work.
Thanks for the video!
I've never worked on one; way too new, like 50 years, haha. I can't advise you with exact knowledge, BUT, I can give you a free copy of the original 30-page Service Manual in PDF format. andymanuals53@gmail.com.
@andytubesewing1953 it does look like it's exactly the same concept as the machine you are working on. If you didn't have the product that you used to loosen up the clamp, what substitute would you have used?
The service manual would be excellent for me to take a look at. Thank you! I will send you an email.
@@Mchampion4 Things I used before finding Krud Kutter Cleaner & Degreaser. 70 to 90%alcohol, WD-40, PB Blaster, Hoppes Gun Cleaner, kerosine. One of the retired Singer Repairmen who came to AZ each winter told me on the old iron (black) Singer machines that ran slow they would use kerosine in the oil can and run the machine for 5 minutes then start putting oil back in it to flush the kerosine, WHen a machine came it that was frozen the would soak the whole thing, minus motor/wiring, in a 5-gallon bucket of kerosine overnight. The KK has no odor, is earth friendly, and works the fastest. WD-40 is very good but you have to flush it all out carefully b/c it is not a lubricant.
Great vid thanks. I find that holding the screwdriver (35:45) and adjusting the nut whilst holding the needle bar you need three hands.I found that a couple of strong rubber bands of a suitable length between the screwdriver handle and the handwheel made it easier for me
That sounds like a great workaround Tony. Thanks for sharing it
Hello sir, I need to set the position at a new sewing machine but it is all the same like you explained in such a detailed degree. Thank you very much for that and greetings from Germany 🤠✌
Thanks for watching my channel. It's nice to hear my video helped you with a new machine. The general principles of needle height and needle to hook timing are the same over the years and models and brands. It was nice of you to comment. Thank you.✨
Have you ever done such a video on a consew Model 199RB-1A? this video was fantastic and your presentation was right on. Love the detail explanation and gentle manner of delivery. Wish you lived next door.
Hi, Molly. I've never worked on an Industrial Sewing Machine like the CONSEW 199RB-1A, but you can download the original Instruction Manual for it from The CONSEW website. It's a PDF document and they do not charge you anything. It will have instructions for setting the NB height, centering the NB and timing, etc. Here is the download page for your manual; www.consew.com/Files/112347/InstructionManuals/199RB-1A.pdf Thanks for the kind words and for watching my channel. Good luck.
Hi Andy. Thank you for this video, very educational and informative. God bless you for sharing your knowledge with us.
Very welcome and thank you also for watching and the very nice comment. Take Care.
thank you for this video, do you have a video to adjust the bobbin, my machine is not picking up the bobbin thread, and the bobbin is not turning with the wheel.
I think you have a defective gear on top of the vertical shaft. That shaft turns the right pulley on the bottom of the machine that turns the timing belt that turns the hook. If your hook is not rotating you're either missing the timing belt (very rare) or the top gear is bad (most likely) I made a video with step-by-step replacement instructions ruclips.net/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/видео.html The gear is $10.
Hi Andy,
You mentioned that the Brazil made singers aren't much good. I know its best to avoid plastic gears etc.
I'm considering a Singer 15 for some light- med leather work, but would like to know your opinion on home machines, maybe from the 50-60s etc that were made well and possibly have strong motors.
Any chance you could mention 4-5 models to consider?
Thanks !
The following list of machines are Domestic Models, meaning made for home sewing, but by today's standards are considered heavy duty.
SINGER MODEL 15-95, CAST IRON potted motor that directly drives the gearing, no motor belt, no timing belt, straight stitch only.
ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKJftyGwzdDiWa9R6HFEACJo
SINGER MODEL 201-2, CAST IRON potted motor that directly drives the gearing, no motor belt, no timing belt, straight stitch only
ruclips.net/video/kIo6ylvF_uY/видео.html
SINGER MODEL 301/301A, CAST ALUMINIUM, direct drive motor, no belts, straight stitch only, SLANT NEEDLE MACHINE.
ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKLZyGebzS_oISgesXNyREyI
ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKI_6fbu3itbd1v4z3uQvvkO
SINGER MODEL 401A, CAST ALUMINIUM, direct drive, no belts, straight stitch, and dozens of zigzag patterns SLANT NEEDLE
ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO
SINGER MODEL 403A, CAST ALUMINIUM, SISTER TO 401A SAME MOTOR/GEARING, uses 22 snap-in cams for ZZ SEWING.
ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKKyqvdDRwS-9MfLuwSNJTcg
SINGER MODEL 404, CAST ALUMINIUM, heavy duty straight stitch only brother to the 401A/403A also slant needle
ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIB4kvIHCfHYuyLMUp5A4UI
Hi Andy. I like the time stamps in your description area. It'll make it easier to come back later and access specific areas of the video . I know I've gone back to some of your other videos and have spent time scrolling through to find what I'm looking for. And after working on a parts machine the last couple of days, I'll be buying the big bottle of Krud Kutter concentrate, some of that old hardened oil can be very difficult to remove with a diluted mixture.
Thanks for the video.
Have you any techniques for tracking down noises? You know, finding a rhythmic click or clunk other than the normal whirring of precision machinery?
Thanks for mentioning the time stamps. It makes it seem worthwhile to spend the time listing them. After the first 32oz spray bottle of Krud Kutter, I started buying it by the gallon. I bought a decent spray bottle so I can mix it how I like, but there are plenty of times I use it full strength too. I do a lot of dismantling of parts and often use an ultrasonic cleaner now for the removed parts that fit in it. I can run that while I pre-treat the body, wash it, dry it and oil it afterward. I have to say that ultrasonic cleaner sure gets the parts clean, even just using plain water. I usually toss in an ounce of the KK though. I used it on the faceplate of the 99k, with all those groves in the design I had used the KK and a brush, but it really sparkled after the ultrasonic bath. ruclips.net/video/EI_3eZ89E2Y/видео.html
Thanks for watching, Terry.
My husband just found 2 Riccar sewing machines. Super stretch R510. This video might just work for me to work on them. Looks like they both were recently refurbished too.
I don't know anything about Riccar machines. Adjusting the height of the needle bar can affect the timing of the machine too, so be careful. Good luck.
The video saved my Singer 347 and my nerves! Thank you 🍺🍺😎😎👍👍
Fantastic! Thanks for keeping your 347 in service. A good machine.
ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKJS_4FKPb4bgAbHtYWnexvy
ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIv5oChf24tvhU_bc45eVYK
Very interesting video Andy. I'm looking for some instructions or help with setting the height of the needle bar of a Singer 15-30. Unfortunately I can't see any positioning marks on the needle bar, I assume there was still a way to figure the correct height, is it documented anywhere?
andymanuals53@gmail.com enter singer model 15-30 in subjet line. In body ask Alan for the 15-30 intruction manual with "Intructions for Adjusters". When he replies with the PDF manual look at page 13. Good Luck.
Thanks for the video Andy, just finished replacing the top gear on my 457. Now I have some more settings to check. Good stuff, keep them coming.
Welcome and congrats on the new gear. Thanks for saving that vintage Singer machine.
Your video is one of the best I ever seen.
I have an Imperial Super Deluxe 562 sewing machine. The needle hits the paddle and I think there is a problem with the lever. please tell me how to fix this.
Sorry, I've never even seen an Imperial Sewing Machine here and have never worked on one so I can't help you with that. 😢
@@andytubesewing1953 thank you Andy.
@@famiahaid1470 Sure, but sorry I could not help. Good Luck.
THANK YOU!!! This saved me a ton of pain!
Happy to hear that! I'm glad you found the video and thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy sewing.
Hey Andy thanks for the video, I have a Singer stylist 533 and was wondering if you have a video on how to fix the zigzag timing,it does a good straight stitch but moves the material when trying to zigzag.i appreciate any help you can offer
If the needle bar is centered and the needle is not bent what you describe sounds like the Pendulum Movement of the NB is out of adjustment. (rare) I do not have a video for that. Without a needle or thread on the machine set the width as wide as it can be and turn the handwheel toward you. The needle should exit upward from the needle plate straight up at first before moving sideways. If it comes up and goes down at an angle the pendulum is off. Some adjustments can be made. You can buy a copy of the Service Manual for models 5xx for $4.99 manualsoncd.com/product/singer-500-sewing-machine-service-manual-518-538-513-514-533/ The instructions are on page 56, If it is not the Pendulum Movement then at least you'll have a complete Service Manual for the machine to check/test other parts settings.
Andy, thank you so much! Your videos have helped me so much! I have a 457 that has a needle bar that just flops around, not attached to anything that makes it go up and down. What am I missing? TIA
Parts? maybe missing parts. The needle bar is held in the vibrating bracket by that connecting stud ruclips.net/video/HfTrIdUpU68/видео.html
that stud connects to the Take-Up Lever inside the nose that makes the needle go up and down. ruclips.net/video/y1DQmHnxzJc/видео.html
The vibrating bracket is what makes the needle bar swing back and forth for ZigZag sewing. ruclips.net/video/LdtVNi1ubSM/видео.html
There is a Needle Bar Driving Arm that connects to the top of the VB and goes into the top of the machine over to the cam stack area to a follower that rides on the ZZ pattern disc and can push the driving arm to swing the VB and NB. For $6.99 you can download a copy of the original Service Manual at this link: manualsoncd.com/product/singer-400-series-service-and-repair-sewing-machine-manual/ It shows how to remove, replace, and adjust all those parts and many more on the machine. A small investment to avoid many hours of frustration, guessing, and mistakes that can make things worse. Good luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
I have been watching and learning so much from your video. Thank you for being so kind to share your knowledge. I have a Vintage Viking 5400. The straight stitches are slanted. Fine for piecing. But, not so fine for top stitching. Any thoughts on what I should be looking for? I don’t want to do something I can’t undo. Thank you.
Thanks for watching my channel. I don't know anything about other brands, only SInger machines. In general slanted stitches can be too large of a needle for the fabric, too long a stitch for the fabric, needle size and thread size do not match. Mechanical issues can be that the follower arm that rides along on the edge of the ZZ pattern disc or cams should be pulled completely away from the disc/cam when the machine is moved to straight stitch, but the follower is not moving completely away and slightly touched the disc/cam making a slightly slanted stitch. This can just be that the parts are dirty and need cleaning or from lack of oil on the moving parts (often a combination of both) On Singer machines there is a Needle Bar Driving Arm from the follower area to a Vibrating Bracket and that arm pushes the bracket to make the needle bar Zig, then a spring moves the bracket back the other way to make the Zag stitch. Again, if the bracket is dirty/sticky the NBDA may push it but the spring can pull it back to center afterward and it "wiggles" a little while sewing straight and makes that slanted look. I have found over the years that good cleaning and proper oiling will eliminate about 90%+ of the weird stitching problems on the SInger Machines. You know, I can't even find a picture of a "Viking 5400" sewing machine.
I'm learning a lot! Thanks for posting these vids!
Welcome, Jeanne. I'm glad you found my channel. Good Luck.
I have a 776 and the needle just started hitting metal down inside the bobbin area. Will finish watching your video and see if anything you show will fix this. Thx
Yes, you should be able to check/set the bar height using this video. Did you have a sudden stop while sewing? Other things to look for are: needle not installed properly, wrong type needle, bent needle, bent needle bar and lost timing between the needlepoint and hook point ( usually just referred to as "timing")
Timing should be easy for you to check. It is basically, once the height is verified, you turn the handwheel toward you until the lower timing mark on the needle bar is even with the bottom of the bushing. The needle bar must be on the upward stroke, so when you turn the handwheel you first will see the upper timing mark and then a little more handwheel turn and the lower timing mark is there. At that moment the point of the hook should be directly behind the needlepoint and about 1/16" above the eye of the needle. If your hook is not there you have lost timing. You can buy a repair guide for your model from Terry at this website: site.tandtrepair.com/700TS.html
You can also buy the service guide he wrote himself. If you do want to buy anything use coupon code andy-h-yt before 12/31/2019 and he will take 20% off whatever you buy. To get an idea of setting the timing on a geared machine you can watch this video: ruclips.net/video/oHGwdEcYGZo/видео.html
Best of luck to you, Shady, and thanks for watching my channel.
Andy Tube thank you for your response. I will check these things out and let you know.
Yes, it happened suddenly. I didn’t know if it has something to do with me oiling everything after it had been dormant for so long? I’m new to sewing and inherited 3 machines. So still learning. This particular machine, the 776, is a slant needle. Does that make a difference in any of the adjustments? The other 2 machines are a Singer Merritt 4530 and a Brother XL2022😃🧵✂️🧷🛠
OK, I asked about sudden stoppage b/c a thread jam can yank the needle bar, but it is rare it moves out of height. Hopefully when you oiled everything you DID NOT put any oil on those plastic gears. (no oil or grease on plastic gears) b/c oily gears could certainly slip during a sudden stop. Even just moving one gear tooth over you would lose timing. Usually, the gear would crack due to age, so do not be surprised if you find that. Hopefully, just a slip somewhere and it is something you can adjust back into place.
Andy Tube i have not removed the top yet, is that where the plastic gears are? Thank you for telling me that🤦♀️. I am going to try to work on it tonight and see what is going on.
The gears to the hook are on the bottom. When you said you oiled everything I assumed you oiled everything. Here is a link to the original Instruction Manual available free from Singer: www.singer.com/sites/default/files/product_manual/abbd2bd7616f2b26729a1f5800a872ec0dc41c5e_0.pdf
Besides explaining all the operations of the machine there are instructions for removing the covers. There are not any oiling instructions which means if the owner did not take it to a service center the machine will be dry. The machine was made about 1976 so about 43 years ago. That's what I meant about gears cracking due to age. The fact that it is a slant needle does not matter as to the needle bar height or the hook timing.
Thanks for your videos. If possible, I would appreciate a video showing us how to adjust the needle bar and the crab on a Singer model 700 series Touch and sew machine.
Sorry, I don't have any Touch & Sew Models and do not work on them. Here is a link to the Guru of T&S models where you can buy and download repair and adjustors manuals. store.tandtrepair.com/tosew700se.html If you do, try coupon code andy-h-yt at checkout which may still give you a 20% discount. Thanks for watching my channel. BTW, by crab do you mean the feed dog? Just curious. Good luck.
Very helpful with fixing up my inherited sewing machine!
Nice of you to comment. A strong, versatile model whit a known problem of the top gear breaking now at 50 years old. Hope yours is fine, but if in case here is the How-To video for replacing it: ruclips.net/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/видео.html Happy sewing, and thanks for watching my channel.
Marc Rauwel
Thank you so much for your very interesting videos.
Do you have informations on how to adjust the centering of the needle on the Singer 6235 model, called "Serenade 30" ?
Model 6235 is much newer than the models I've worked on. Made in Taiwan. You can buy & download a copy of the Service & Parts manual for $8.99 at this link: manualsoncd.com/product/singer-6235-sewing-machine-service-parts-manual/ SInger service manuals usually show all the available adjustments on the particular NB and how to remove & replace it. Thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you very much for your help.
Recently, i had to change the feed drive gear (the long one), then after re-adjusted needle/hook and feed dog synchronisations, the machine is working ant seems correct but regularly is skipping one or two stitches on 30 cm long. This problem was not existing before removing the gear, so i wonder if it is necessary to change the clearance between needle and hook or something else must be checked before doing this ?
@@marcrauwel4792 wow, 30 cm is a very long stitch! I've never worked on this model, or any model with the plastic gears on the bottom so can really advise you other than when something like this happens I go over all the work I did and usually find the timing I set is a tiny bit off.
Thank you for this video. I gave a machine to a student and got it back because the needle is stuck to the very left about one centimeter. Stays way beyond where it should be and never moves back. I noticed that I will need to replace a gear which got broken in the process of whatever else jammed. Do you know how I can make the needle position switch work? THe part at 27 minutes, mine does not spring back and forth. Yikes.
A few possibilities of the cause. Vibrating bracket stuck with dried oil, needle bar driving arm jammed near cam stack, needle L-C-R bracket stuck or broken, etc. You can buy the service manual for $6.99 and download it here: manualsoncd.com/product/singer-400-series-service-and-repair-sewing-machine-manual/ The manual covers those types of adjustments and repair or replacements when needed. Sometimes a good cleaning and oiling are all that is needed, especially if the machine was idle for years/decades. The gear did not break from some precess, but because it is old and dried plastic. Regardless of the needle bar situation, the machine will never sew without a new gear, and replacing the gear may lead you to the NB problem. The new gear for the top of the vertical shaft is about $10 and here is a video showing how to replace it: ruclips.net/video/M3bFtlV1Y6s/видео.html Good luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
Love your videos. You really help. Have a question about a New Home NLB sewing machine. Fixing for my sister. It was mom’s machine. It uses special needles which are no longer in production. I have read about adjusting the needle bar to use newer needles. 206-13 needle is just a little longer than the original size so my idea is to raise the needle bar by that amount. Is that the right idea? Thanks again for all your great information.
I've no idea of that machine, but I would be more tempted to shorten the new needle from the top by cutting or filing than changing the height. If "just a little longer" is 1/32 or less than maybe changing the height can work, but a longer needle is into the hook area longer time also, and will the scarf of the needle be at the correct height on the needle? The "scooped out" area on the back where the hook point flys by to grab the needle thread. Are the old and new eyes of the needle at the same height?
If raising the needle bar works that is certainly easier way to go that modifying each needle. Mark the old needle bar height well so you can return it back if your plan does not work then give it a try. Just turn by hand the first time you try the new system in case the needle strikes the hook point of elsewhere.
You're a creative thinker, Dave. Good Luck.
Loved this helped a lot. But was slow getting there
I do that for those that don't speak English. Next time try playing it at one and a half or two times speed and it won't bother you as much. Thanks for watching
I think I found the right video for what is going on
Ahh, OK then. I think maybe you did. Good luck.
Wondering if you have any videos on an singer stylist model 7258 like on how to take casing off or how to clean and oil or grease it and where to
Sorry, but the 7258 is about 30 years newer than what I work on. No worries though b/c you can go to this link and download a free copy of the 38-page Service Manual and the first section starts with how to remove the covers. I use these types of manuals for all the models I work on and they are quite helpful. Just use the smaller green "download" button above the manual name. Don't download anything else. You can even just read the manual online there if you do not want to download it. www.manualslib.com/manual/1850819/Singer-7285q.html#manual
Thanks for watching my channel and good luck.
@@andytubesewing1953Please what is the needle number of this machine
Hi! Sir andy thank you for your video to show is nice explanation .my problem is about the lock of my needle is loosen how to adjust. When I put a needle the needle is down it is not feet to her lock. Thank you ...
Lanie, did you know there is a Gib inside the end of the needle bar of model 457? It fits inside the needle clamp. When you put in a needle, the thumb screw pushes on the Gib and and the Gib squeezes the needle, If the Gib is missing then there is no way to tighten the needle. Here is what the Gib looks like: www.sewingpartsonline.com/needle-clamp-gib-singer-163822.aspx
Here is a video of model 513 that has a Gib. The model 513 Gib is a different size than the Gib in the 457 but the video shows where the Gib fits:
ruclips.net/video/qm-Qk3qk9GQ/видео.html Here is the video showing how to install it:
ruclips.net/video/-FezmqypK6w/видео.html
Take off your needle clamp and see if the Gib is there. I think it is missing.
Good Luck
Sir andy thank you very much for reply.
Very welcome and I hope it works out good for you.
Your videos are outstanding!
Thank you, Emily. It's kind of you to say so. Thanks for watching.
Very good instructions, thank u so much.
Thanks for the nice comment, Mary. I appreciate you watching my channel.
Thank you Andy! Super helpful! I have similar model as well. One question, after I changed gears and adjusted the timing, now my zigzag motion is not working anymore. Any ideas which part i messed up?
Can you tell me the model number please?
It is singer stylist 418! Thank you so much!@@andytubesewing1953
@@minniepat Model 418, OK. I've not worked on that one. ZZ systems are basically the follower at the cam stack, to the needle bar driving arm to the vibrating bracket that holds the needle bar.
I don't know the process you used to change the gear (I'm assuming the top gear of the vertical shaft) or the parts you removed to do that.
When I get a machine that won't ZZ I usually start at the stitch width lever and follow the motion to the needle bar. When I move the lever to the widest ZZ stitch can I see the follower swing over and rest on the pattern disc. Is the follower still connected to the NB driving arm at the bottom? Is the NB Driving arm still attached to the Vibrating Bracket?
What came apart or is loose or even has a screw or Cir-Clip missing.
I suggest this: send an email to andymanuals53@gmail.com Put "Singer Model 418" in the subject line. In the Narrative area put "ATTN: ALAN" INVOICE AT10042023- NC" When Alan gets the email he will send you a copy of the Parts Manual and the Service Manual for your machine. Hopefully, that can help you isolate where the problem is. Alan will not charge you but will send the invoice to me. That's the best I can do today. Good Luck
@@andytubesewing1953 You are the best! I mean it!!!! Thank you so much, your channel helped me a lot and you are awesome addressing our questions! Can't thank you enough!
@@minniepat Very kind of you to say so. I just received confirmation from Ala that he sent the manuals. I hope they help. Take care.
Hi Andy, do have a video of this procedure on a Slant O Matic machine?
Maybe this one: ruclips.net/video/c1YhfFqeuVI/видео.html Part of this 27-video playlist for model 403A: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKKyqvdDRwS-9MfLuwSNJTcg Some videos for the 401A: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO 21 videos for the 503A: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX A complete 56-video tutorial for model 404: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIB4kvIHCfHYuyLMUp5A4UI Thanks for watching my channel and good luck.
Thanks much. It was slow but very eye opening.
I'm glad you liked it. Yes, I go slower for people who don't speak English as a first language, but you can always speed up the playback speed in the settings. Thanks for the comment and happy sewing!
Hi, Andy. Would you do a video on adjusting the needle bar on 201-2. I just bought one and I placed a brand new, unbent needle in it I noticed the needle is very close to the needle plate hole on the left. Thank you in advance.
I do not have a 201-2 so I can not accommodate your request. The service manual does not show any adjustment to center the needle in the needle plate hole so you have an unusual problem. Things that may cause your problem are dirt or grit inside the needle clamp that is making the needle crooked. You can clean the needle clamp by lowing the needle bar (no needle) into a small cup of alcohol and soaking it for a while to soften any dried dirt or oil, then gently cleaning inside with a toothpick or similar. -:--->>> The manual also shows there is a small part on the end of the needle bar that fits inside the needle clamp that is called a GIB & Thread guide. The GIB part fits up inside the bottom of the needle bar and needle clamp, on the left side and the thread guard is a curled wire from the GIB to guide the thread on the way to the needle. You can see a reproduction of that part here: --www.vintagesingerparts.com/products/original-singer-needle-clamp-fits-models-15-86-15-87-15-88-15-90-15-91-201-1-201-2-201k?_pos=1&_sid=de5b17cf7&_ss=r-- The GIB part is what the needle camp thumb screw pushes the needle into to hold it. If that part is missing on your machine the thumbscrew will push your needle to the left side of the hole in the needle bar and then the needle will not be centered over the hole of the needle plate. Do you have that part on your needle bar/clamp?
Full of essential tips and well explained Video of sewing machine understanding .
Thank you for such a nice comment. 🙏
Cone wrenches used for bicycle rim hubs and brakes? are extremely thin and might work. I just checked MY set and it only goes down to 8mm, though.
Thanks again Andy. So I have a treadle Necchi BU Nova and the screw for the needle bar is on the side and access is through a hole on the body of the machine. But the bar is stuck. I got the screw off but can’t see inside if it’s got gunk in it. Can I still put WD40 or rubbing alcohol in it if I’m not sure how well I can clean it?
I don't know much about the Necchi machines, but a stuck needle bar is common on all brands. I've had some tight places to work with, and I do still use WD40 or Alcohol or even Keresene to loosen old dried-up oil on parts. Please consider using a hairdryer to heat the parts as that can also help. As far as clean up afterward, I'll use Q-tips, of course, but also strips of old t-shirts I poke into the areas with a wood BBQ stick or similar. Those cotton rags are great for soaking up the liquids you put in and collecting a lot of the grease and gunk. When I'm finished with my cleaning and adjusting I put Sewing Machine Oil (SMO) on the parts and it is one of the very few times I will over oil it somewhat. Then I repeat the cotton swabs and rags to remove the excess oil. Although I've never seen an NBN in person I've always heard it's a very nice model, so congrats and happy sewing.
@@andytubesewing1953 thanks so much
@@pkp6241 Surely. Good luck.👍
I'm trying to set the needle bar on a singer simple. I doesn't have any marks on the needle bar as you describe and it also doesn't have a set screws for the hook. The timing is off due to rough treatment from kids sewing on it. Any help or tips you may have would be much appreciated!
Not so simple, huh? That machine is a few decades newer than what I work on, but the principle of hook-to-needle timing has been the same on every machine I've worked on. That principle is that after the needle has bottomed out and is on the way BACK UP the point of the hook should be directly behind the needle. The reason is that as the needle starts up the fabric drags on the needle thread and that creates a tiny "loop" of thread for the hook point to grab. At that start back up point, the EYE of the needle should be barely BELOW the hook point. (b/c the loop forms ABOVE the eye). If you can turn the handwheel towards you until the hook point and needlepoint line up, then raise or lower the needlepoint until the eye of the needle is between 1/16 and 1/8 inch below the hook point and tighten it there.
You should at least be close to having it timed. You may have to tweak the height a little up or down, but thread the needle and turn the handwheel to see if you can catch the needle thread. That's the approach I would try.
@@andytubesewing1953 thanks for the clarification. What I am not sure about is how to identify the set screws for the hook. I see about 1/4-1/2" gap between the hook and the scarf of the needle at it's closest approach. The hook off. I know that at one point the woman who was using this machine was aggressive with replacing the needle and had "shoved" the needle past the needle bar stop. So the needle bar needs to be adjusted also. I really want to save this machine from the landfill if I can. The motor seems fine. I appreciate all your time and attention!
@@KenEmbree yeah I wish I could advise you more but it's way too new of a machine on the older ones. We could search by model number and often find a service manual or at least a parts manual to help us at manuals on CD.com. but I don't know it if singer even does that for this new of a machine. I think they just break and get tossed. Sorry to say
My needle is stuck to the far left, when I try to flip the dial to center it won’t unless my stitch spacing is at 5, then it will the moment I switch my stitch space back to zero it pulls the needle back to the far left again. Any ideas? It is old I replaced some parts following your instruction but now I’ve found this issue.
Maybe replacing parts caused something? Sorry, I can't diagnose something like this by the comment sections. What I can do is give you free copies of the Service Manual and Parts Schematic. Maybe that can guide you to a solution. If you want those send an email to andymanuals53@gmail.com and ask for Simger Model 457K Documents. I'll have Alan reply with PDF copies of the manuals for no charge.
Do you have any tutorials for singer 648. I bought from this guys he took it apart and didnt know how to put it back together i got most of it pit back im just left with one gear left idk were it goes
Sorry, Marco, I do not have videos for the 648 model. I don't really work on the Touch & Sew models. However, you can download a free copy of the Parts Diagram for model 648 at this link: www.maquinasuniao.com.br/wp-content/themes/maquinas-uniao/catalogos/loop-85/Singer%20648E3,%20648E6,%20646E7.pdf The machine has many parts that must be adjusted to spec, such as needle bar height, presser bar height, hook to needle timing, feed timing, cam stack timing, thread tension assembly stroke & tension, etc. so if you need help after assembly you can buy a Service Manual for $8.99 and download it here: manualsoncd.com/product/singer-630-648-sewing-machine-service-manual/ Good luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
Hello Andy... How are you? You made me laugh SOOOO MUCH when i reached 43:28 mn of this video ... :-) i like your DETAILED instructions ... i guess your initial job was a teacher... weren't you? THANK YOU FOR YOUR VERY HELPFUL VIDEOS... Much luck to you !
Will continue watching ... maybe i'll find a solution to a same problem with my machine ...
My main career was as a telecommunications tech. I did do teaching and training and mentoring during that career and enjoyed it very much. I enjoyed your comment very much also, thank you. You also have this Modell 457? Thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 So i guessed it ALMOST right :-) ... My machine is a Chinese ''imitation' of the industrial singer 20 u 43 ... Will try setting the stitch length nob to zero and try again . Thank you for replying .
Yes you made a very good guess very very good and good luck who is your machine
@@andytubesewing1953Wait, I was a Comm Tech for Pac Bell until I retired in 2009, I was in FMAC (Digital side of the house) :-)
@@chuckcamacho9970 It's a small world, Chuck. Congrats on your retirement 😀 I tried to transfer from Mountain Bell to Pacific Bell, San Diego, in 1983. An area manager in the OSP Engineering Dept wanted me for my experience in doing Cental Office Cut Over to #1 ESS. The union objected b/c I was from another company and they wanted an existing PacTel employee to fill the job. Ended up staying in Phoenix, Metro area thru the 1984 Bell System Breakup the DOJ ordered, then US WEST was formed. Stayed there when Qwest Communications bought us. Century Link pays my Pension now, but I just got a letter that it is changing to LUMEN soon. As long as I get my pension it is OK with me. Hope you are staying sane and out of trouble. Thanks for watching my channel. Take care.
Andy, how do you reset needle bar on a Brother SQ9285? Needle is rubbing plate towards me. I went over a cargo pants seam while putting on a patch. Now timing off and needle off. Lori
Sorry Lori, I don't know anything about brother branded machines. I only work on singer. However, when you mentioned the cargo pants scene and you lost the timing, what I have found on my machines is the needle can be bent even a tiny bit and or the whole needle bar was pushed up a tiny bit and that would cause a loss of timing. You may be able to find a service manual for your machine at manuals on CD.com and search for the model number of your brother. I bought a lot of singer manuals there and they're reasonable price. Sorry I can't help you more oh by the way, if you look at my homepage, I have a playlist with several videos about setting the needle bar height just like this video you commented on, but some different models of singer. But again, I have no idea about brother
Can you show me how to replace the needlebar for the sewing machine model Sunstar KM - 137 A please, thank you.
I can't, sorry. I only work on Vintage Singer Domestic Sewing Machines. I know nothing about your machine.😞
Where’d you get that fancy wooden pointer?
It's a Bar-B-Q stick dipped in latex paint. The real question is how were you able to reach the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro? That's an amazing feat!
Thank you sooooooooooo much.
It is always nice when a viewer takes time to tell me a video helped. That is what my channel is about. So, Arlene, thank you very much. If you have this 457 model, here are some other videos about it >> ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKK9GeuGLCo6ZyWv-HbheRVK
You may want to bookmark the gear replacement video (8) as the chances are you will need it someday. I hope never, but experience tells me someday.
Excellent video. Do you happen to know where I can buy the screw and hex bolt that fit the 7 mm wrench? My hex bolt broke off the screw.
The hexagon bolt is part no. 51408. it is 11/64th inch with 40 TPI (threads per inch) and used SInger Tap TE538 and shows no alternate tap available (when my screw chart was made back in 19??) The same part was used on these model numbers 327K, 328K, 337K, 338K. 347, 348, 457. I don't think you could walk into a hardware store and find it; maybe. It's the type of parts I find usually find on Thriftyfarmgirl.com or eBay.
It is part of either the vibrating bracket or the needle bar driving arm and you do not see many of those for sale b/c hardly anyone buys them. I've had better luck contacting a seller who has parts for sale from one of those models and asking for the part, sometimes emailing them a picture of where the part is on the machine. An example is someone selling the needle bar of a 457K. That's easy to remove so they take it off and sell it. If I contact them they likely have the VB and will sell me the hexagon bolt, maybe $5 or $6 + postage. They know it must be hard to find or I would not have asked for it, haha. The first place I look for parts like this is thriftyfarmgirl.com and if Connie has it she will post it for sale and email me that it's available. Good Luck and thanks for watching my channel.
Andy Tube I have the replacement screw but can’t seem to get it into position. The head of the screw is to thick to fit in the appropriate slot. Suggestions?
@@tanyarichey In your original comment I assumed your machine is a model 457 as in the video. Is that correct? If your replacement screw is part 51408 I don't know why it would not fit. Where did you find the part? Can you show me a link to where you bought it? Would you like to send pictures/videos to show me the problem? andytube53@gmail.com
Andy Tube It is the right screw, thank you. The problem is trying to fit it into the tight space where it belongs. The L C R bar doesn’t extend out far enough past the metal machine casing in order for me to get a straight shot to insert the screw. I hope that makes sense.
@@tanyarichey It's always something, as they say. OK, I get it now. You can loosen a tiny set screw on the front of the vibrating bracket and pull up and out a hinge pin/stud that holds a part that your new screw connects through. I'm thinking that you could then push that part to the left away from the side of the machine far enough to get your screw through the needle bar driving arm and into the part. After that, you can replace the part with the hinge pin. Whew! That's hard to imagine I think (I heard that!) So take a look starting about 28:50 of this video, ruclips.net/video/tw-Y3V_LrnA/видео.html I show removing the hinge pin and you'll see the part and NBDR is loose and a little floppy. I think this will work, but if not I have a three-part video series about replacing that whole needle bar driving bracket on a similar model. I also can share a service manual for model 457 about removing the needle bar driving arm at the other end, by the cam stack. I really think pulling the hinge pin is the easiest way forward. Of course, I'll be on tenterhooks until I hear what happens, but don't mind me; I just here for the entertainment factor 😀
Good Luck, T Richey.
I am using singer fashion maker 298( old model) in zigzag mode needle is hitting the presser foot, is there any solution for me? Pls give me reply
Singer Model 298 is a high-end fashion Model from about 1980. I've never seen one in person or worked on one. There are multiple settings for various stitching situations available on the model. Other than the obvious of having the foot turned off-center and not straight, the best place to start is with cleaning and oiling. There are 40 oiling points on model 298! The 100-page Instruction Manual has information for cleaning and oiling and it has several pages showing the correct machine settings for the type of stitch and patterns that can be sewn. If you need a copy of the manual you can download if for free from Singer at this link:
www.singer.com/search/support?title=298
Another question on this model 457. Does this apply to the 413 And I wonder how many other videos in this playlist I can refer to for my 413? Thanks
Below RUclips videos is an area called the "Description" where we put information in for the viewer. In the description for this video, it says this adjustment is the same for several models, including your 413. You're good.
BTW, I do have a Playlist specifically for model 413, but maybe you already saw that: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKKVlkxPT9FMTdvUUGj8Ydf8
@@andytubesewing1953 yes sir I did! I have saved them all now I’m fixing to sit down and watch them all lol I did see where the 413 was included with quite a few others that you mentioned in that video. When I went to look inside I saw that particular gear looks pretty much intact. It does look dry so I didn’t know whether I should just go ahead and apply the grease or should I try to prep it before I do that? That gear sure reminded me of one of those touch and sew machines I tried to work on once upon a time🤦♀️🤣
@@rhondamercado7527 Well, I've been fooled by a few of the "OK-looking" gears. They broke as soon as I started using the machine. They do get dry and very brittle. Remember, your machine may have been sitting for years or a couple of decades. I hope your is fine, but be careful. About grease on the gears. I don't do it b/c both the retired Singer repairmen told me never put grease on plastic gears, or oil on plastic parts. Many people will argue with me about that and claim there are many "safe" grease nowadays, like the synthetic Tri-Flow that are "safe" for plastic. To each their own. Good luck, Rhonda, thanks for saving another machine, and please have lots of fun.
@@andytubesewing1953 oh my, I was really going to put grease on them. Thanks Andy. Hope all is well. Take care.
@@rhondamercado7527 It's up to you. As I said, many viewers disagree with me on that and say that synthetic grease (no petroleum content) is safe for plastic. I did not put any grease on the new gears I installed but some folks do. Maybe your gear is OK and no worries for you.
Thank you ❤
🙂
All of this I need to know
Thanks
I took the proper 7mm wrench and put it to the grinder. And milled it down, then it fit it.
@@ronalddaub7965 Nicely done! 👍
I'm happy if the video helps, Ronald. Thanks for saving the pedal. Good Luck
I got my Singer 201K (aluminum Body) all cleaned up and running. Went to put in the Needle, and it won't go it. What could that be? Doesn't appear to be a broken Needle inside. I'm super frustrated! Any ideas ? This is the LAST step to get her sewing again, after having been abandoned for years and years.
Was there a needle in the needle clamp before? I've never even seen a 201, but the manual says it takes a 15 x 1 class of needle so be sure you have that. The flat side of the top of the needle must face to the left when you insert the needle into the clamp. The service manual shows a combination gib and thread guide is inside the needle clamp at the end of the needle bar. Is your gib/guide still in place? Did you remove the needle bar/clamp for cleaning? you can see the service manual here: issuu.com/davidmannock/docs/singer_201_service-adjuster_27s_man and on page 56 (of the actual manual) you'll see instructions for installing the gib/guide into the needle clamp and bar.
I have a Singer model 418 Stylist that the presser foot won't go up and down. Any idea what is keeping it hung up?
Just got this machine? There could be a jam in the parts inside the nose, but if the machine has been sitting a very long time chances are oil has dried into a hard varnish inside the presser bar bushing. That is the hole the bottom of the presser bar goes thru on the bottom of the nose. There is a metal tube inside called a bushing. With the bar going thru there is just enough space for it to move up and down. Oil settles inside there and gets hard, like glue almost. Using a penetrating oil, or alcohol dripped into the bushing you can soften the old gunk up. You can also heat the area with a heat gun or I use a hairdryer. Don't force the lifter lever b/c you can bend internal parts, just take the nose cover and arm cover off to work on it. To see what all those parts are like and how they work, here is my video on a similar model, the 513. I think it has the same presser bar system. ruclips.net/video/EwSU1xGS5f0/видео.html Oh, and turn the pressure dial to 1 or "D" to have the least amount of pressure on the spring while you are doing this. Patience can be the charm for dried-up stuck parts. Drip in the softener and do something else for a while as it works. Reading the manual is a good idea. Free copy from Singer at this link: www.singer.com/search/support?title=418 Thanks for watching my channel and good luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 thank you for the help I really appreciate it. I got it moving but the foot is not pressing on the fabric enough even on the highest pressure setting. Your video is great!
@@leslieolmstead82 The presser bar pressure dial may be installed incorrectly. The presser bar may not be set at the proper height. With the presser bar lifted and the feed dog below the needle plate, the height of the bottom of the presser foot above the top of the needle plate should be .290 to .300 inches. That's a little over 4 US quarter dollars. The feed dog may be adjusted too low. At stitch length 12 and the handwheel turned so the feed dog is at its highest point, the bottom of the "V" between the teeth of the feed dog should be barely above or equal to the top of the needle plate slot. That puts the top of the teeth between .040 to .045 inches above the needle plate. I think it's time you take a look at the Service Manual for your machine. It is 40 pages long and contains all the adjustment, removal, and installation instructions for the parts on your machine. Easy to follow with pictures of the work and step-by-step instructions. You can buy and download a PDF copy of the manual here for $8.99 manualsoncd.com/product/singer-416-418-sewing-machine-service-manual/ If printed manuals work better for you you can sometimes find them for sale on eBay and other online providers for about twice that much.
Hi Andy, I have a Singer 636 machine with problem's. I can't seem to get the needle to go right or left by moving the needle position lever. Have any thing I could try?
Wondering if this is a new machine for you. Often problems like this go away with a nice complete oiling as shown in the Instruction Manual on pages 69 -72 You can download a free manual here if needed. www.singer.com/search/support?title=636
The position lever moves some parts nest to the cam stack inside and positions the needle bar driving arm that goes into the nose end and moves the bracket that holds the needle bar. All those parts need oil to work properly. If the oiling is not enough to solve the problem you may have a/some worn or damaged parts, but unless someone got inside with screwdrivers and wrenches, it is most likely a cleaning/oiling problem. You can buy a copy of the complete service manual from Terry if you like. I recommend it when you plan on keeping the machine. He will give you $2 off the $10 price if you use my coupon code of andy-h-yt before the end of 2021. Here is the page for it store.tandtrepair.com/sm630.html Service Manuals show how to adjust, remove, and replace parts on the machine.
thank you
Very Welcome, Kay.
Hello. can you tell me please what what be the reason for a loose shank/needle bar if i touch it . it moves from side to side. all so if when i am sewing and leave needle down to turn the work the loose shank/needle bar will move to one side. i have been trying to find out what is causing this with no joy. so i am not using my machine until i can find out. my machine is an Elna 6600. Thank you.
Sorry, Hazel. I can't help you with an Elna machine. I've never worked on one. You may want to buy the Service/Parts Manual for it. 40 pages of service instructions + 18 pages for parts diagrams. You can download it here for $7 manualsoncd.com/product/elna-6600-sewing-machine-service-parts-manual/ Good Luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you so much for you help and the link. Happy new year to you. x
@@hazelblair6634 Thank you and good luck.
Is there a standard way to determine needle height on an import machine. It's a 5560 if that helps.
Sorry, I don't have a clue about that model; way too modern. No documents in my files. I only found one source for a Service Manual, $15 to download if it is the machine you are talking about thesilkpincushionboutique.com/product/service-manual-singer-fashion-mate-5000-6100-series-sewing-machine/ ( I've never used this source) In general terms, the vintage Singers I have worked on have the timing marks. I will say after the height is set, and the handwheel is turned to the front a tiny amount to line up the lower timing mark, the eye of the needle is about 1/16 inch above the point of the hook when the hook point is exactly behind the needle. That is where things sit for correct timing. I suppose you could have the needle bar on the upward stroke and when the hook is behind the needle and the eye is 1/16 inch above that hook point you could tighten the needle bar at that height. The eye must be there so the hook can catch the needle thread (timing) hope that makes sense to you. Here is a timing video ruclips.net/video/qMOa5QP71as/видео.html
@@andytubesewing1953 finally purchased the manual from the link you provided. Looks like it lays enough out I'll be able to repair several machines I inherited. Thanks 👍
@@jordanrobertson7824 Happy to hear that and thanks for saving those machines.
I have a singer 241- 11 and the needle is off center. Can you help me?
To the best of my knowledge Singer model 241-11 is an Industrial High-Speed Straight Stitch model, up to 5000 stitches per minute. It does not have zigzag so there is no vibrating bracket to use for centering the needle. If your needle bar is out of center it could be bent, or the Needle Bar Connecting Link could be bent or installed wrong. You can get the manual free from this link: www.manualslib.com/download/364493/Singer-241.html it includes some adjustments and maintenance information, but only shows how to set the height of the needle bar. You can also download the 55-page parts list & diagram for the machine if you think seeing the parts can help you: www.manualslib.com/download/153988/Singer-241-11.html I have not & do not work on Industrial Models, but the above info is freely available online. Good luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you so much for taking time to reply. God bless you.
@@missarcene4345 👍
Hi Andy I have a Singer 9015 which does not have the two lines on the needle bar how can I check the height adjustment as I cant see any lines around the needle bar.is there any other way to check height. cheers Tony
Sorry, Marthese. I have no experience with the 9015 model. Too new. No one I checked with has a service manual for it that usually shows how to time the machine. In general, you can do the method backward. When the needle bar is going up and the hook is behind the needle the hook point should be about 1/16" above the eye of the needle. If not, raise or lower the needle bar until it is. Here is an explanation for timing: m.wikihow.com/Adjust-Sewing-Machine-Timing and a video that may help you determine if your timing is the problem:
ruclips.net/video/ZsebAKZxmU0/видео.html That's all I can suggest, Good Luck.
thanks Andy .Love your videos I learnt a lot from them
cheers Tony and Marthese
@@marthesemercieca5197 That is kind of you to say, and thank you very much.
I thought I’d watch this video for my new 513 problem. When turning the wheel towards me to bring up the bobbin thread, the needle is hitting something under the plate. It doesn’t happen when moving forward so I tried to sew and the sounds scared me, not to mention it didn’t sew. Help! 😂
You can slide the bobbin cover plate open and turn the handwheel by hand slowly. As soon as the needle "hits something" stop and lift the fabric to see what it hits. You can even do this without thread or fabric. What is under there is the hook and if the needle is hitting the hook that is the classic sign that the machine lost timing. Timing is when the needlepoint and hook point line up (to grab the needle thread from the needle) On a machine like the 513 the most common cause of timing loss is a failing gear. If even a couple teeth on a gear crack off you will lose timing. Are you sure the gears are OK? One of the videos I listed for you before was about changing the gear and RESETTING the timing (he calls is synchronizing) ruclips.net/video/0HirFoVVoxY/видео.html
If you'd care to learn how timing works, I have 16 timing videos here: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKLk_Q_6w0UjhnQUgi7Iy3K7
@@andytubesewing1953 i didn’t watch these because the gears look great but maybe there’s a defect I can’t see. I’ll watch these specific videos. Thank you so much. You are a treasure.
@@christinebond1102 I've also service models like this where someone put a new gear on but did not understand timing. When the machine would not sew they brought it to be fixed, gave it away, or threw it out.
@@andytubesewing1953 we are going to order gears but wonder is there a special Allen wrench to use to turn these tiny holes all around? My husband has a ton of them and none fit .
@@christinebond1102 Wow, that's a lot of Allen Wrenches 😀Sorry, I don't know the exact size. I'm guessing he has SAE wrenches. The 513s I worked on were made in Canada and I think they use Metric sizes there. I have a set with both types and I just use whatever fits and pay no attention to size or type. Maybe he has Metric and the hole is SAE size... you get the idea.
Subbed
TY
can you use WD40 on it?
Your surely can! Any penetrating oil can be used. Just remember when you finish to wipe it all off and oil the machine with SMO
(Sewing Machine Oil) WD40 is NOT a lubricant and will not protect the parts.
Please what is the needle number of this machine singer 457
Singer model 457 uses the following needles: TYPE 15X1 SIZES 9, 11, 14, 16, 18 for fabrics. TYPE 15X2 sizes 11, 14, 16 for leather. TYPE 2028 TWIN NEEDLE SIZE 14 for sewing double-thread stitches. You may be interested in downloading a FREE copy of the instruction manual for the SINGER Support page at this link: www.singer.com/search/support?title=457 Good luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
👏👏👏👍
🙏 TY
I've always had a light scraping noise from the bobbin area, and watching this I've noticed that the rotating hook part deflects the needle towards me before the hook reaches behind the needle. Am I correct that the needle needs moving forward towards me a little so it doesnt scrape and get deflected? I'm guessing it is to protect the hook from the needle going too far back?
Correct. The needle shouldn't scrape on anything. If it "zings" against the hook it may be a bent needle (always test with a new needle before adjusting) or the needle bar has "drifted" towards the hook and can be adjusted. You do not mention if the needle is centered in the hole of the needle plate as I show in the video. Sometimes people have lost the straight stitch needle plate (or never had it) and only have the multi-purpose or ZigZag plate. You can still adjust it with the ZZ plate, it's just a little trickier. BTW, if the machine is sewing a beautiful stitch, most techs would not change anything. On some machines, techs were known to adjust it that way on purpose to prevent skipping on that particular machine due to the hook bushing being off or even the needle bar being slightly bent. Again, always test with a new needle and be sure it is inserted 100% up into a clean needle clamp before you decide to make any adjustments. The Rocketeer models 500A & 503A were adjusted this way ( a very slight "zinggg" from the needle) on purpose to correct a hook variance.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks for the reply. I only have a zig zag plate, and in this the (fresh) needle isn't centered perfectly left-right, but I dont have a thin spanner so it will have to do for now as it sews ok. With your instructions I've got the front/back centered better now and not scraping.
I actually found this video because I was having a nightmare with random bunching and skipped stitches, and I thought it was the needlebar being set too far forward and catching on a few different low shank presser feet I got from ebay. Turns out the needle was actually too far back and scraping on the hook mechanism, and instead the feet sit about a mm back from the centre of the needle plate. This meant the needle or thread always slightly caught on the front of the foot's needle gap and caused all sorts of trouble. But this means my Singer 457 doesn't seem to work with low shank feet like it should (excluding the zig zag it came with), even trying feet from different ebayers. I guess I'll have to take a file to them and make the needle gap a little bigger on the front to clear the needle.
@@sew2000 Nice progress! I was looking thru the Service Manual for your model to get the "gap" setting between the hook point to needlepoint. It's .000 to .002" Whew! Very close. Befor3 I found a straight stitch needle plate, I used this setting and a feeler gauge to set it. You can buy a Service Manual for only $7 here: manualsoncd.com/product/singer-400-series-service-and-repair-sewing-machine-manual/ If you plan on keeping the machine I'd recommend it. Good Luck going forward.
Time hook vintage omega sewing machine
I'm sorry but I know nothing about "Omega" sewing machines. Timing of the needlepoint to hook point follows the same principle on most sewing machines. Here is a playlist of 15 of my timing videos ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKLk_Q_6w0UjhnQUgi7Iy3K7 maybe one of my machines will be similar to your Omega. Thanks for watching my channel. Good Luck.
En français
Vous pouvez ouvrir les sous-titres codés sur n'importe laquelle de mes vidéos et changer la langue en français. Voici les instructions si vous en avez besoin. ruclips.net/video/jUSCUsCkQ8Y/видео.html
S'il vous plaît, aidez-vous et profitez du spectacle. Je vous remercie.
Hablas demasiado, tienes que ir mas al grano!
Gracias por su crítica de mi estilo de video Sr. González. Cuando hagas un video mejor, asegúrate de hacérmelo saber. De esa manera puedo aprender a tratar de ayudar adecuadamente a las personas impacientes y groseras, como tú.