I think the concept is to apply about 40 pounds of gypsum per 1,000 square feet of area. Also you need to then use a rototiller to then mix it into the soil.
I've never had a specific issue with going over the rate you mentioned. No side effects from doing so. Also you could rototill if you want to. Is it absolutely necessary? No. It's made to break down on its own over time as water hits it so it can work its way down into the soil. So there's really no benefit to rototilling it in afterwards. Plus after doing that your most likely going to have to re-level everything making it double the work.
A general rule is heavy clay is also very alkaline so i would recommend a fast acting sulfur. Organic matter and carbon carbon carbon. Green sand is good too and you can't over use greensand
I would first do a soil test, and if the soil was deficient in calcium with a low PH would put gypsum down. Otherwise, blindly adding gypsum could ruin the lawn.
I would agree with the soil test. Still planning to get one done too. I'm not too concerned since gypsum doesn't affect PH. Plus I only applied it to the areas where it's just bare soil. Still going to be a little bit before the new sod goes in. I've used it before and haven't ruined my lawns in any way. I think it would take quite a lot of gypsum to affect the lawn in that way.
I've never tried or experienced doing it that way so I can't really say if I would recommend it or not. If you wanted to try that I'd probably try breaking it all up to get it into smaller pieces and maybe even into like powder form like the stuff I used. If you let stuff sit on the lawn for too long it could do more damage than good. Like if you had bigger pieces and just threw them out there, by the time it were to fully break down you'd probably have damaged areas in the lawn from it just sitting. If you're referring to trying it on just bare soil, then I could possibly see that not being an issue. Also the gypsum usually comes in the granular pellets or powder form for a reason because it breaks down fast into the soil. Similar to compost as well. Hopefully that helps!
I noticed you never put any on the grass which I'm assuming would be sitting on clay soil? Is it not reccomend for application over grass? Also. How often would you apply this per season and how long before you see tangible results?
Yes you're correct on that. It's all clay soil. The reason why I didn't put it on the existing grass is because I'm mainly focused on the bare soil area where new sod will be going. All prep work basically. I eventually plan to apply some to the existing grass area as well. You can totally apply it on an existing lawn no problem! From what I've seen people suggest around 30-40 Lbs per 1,000 Sq. Ft. However I feel like it's all personal preference. Gypsum isn't going to really hurt the grass or soil if you choose to apply it heavy. I'd say if it's your first time applying it I'd start out probably with a little less than that. Maybe 10 Lbs per 1,000 just so you can see how it works. You can always apply more afterwards if you choose to . For instance since I went heavy in a pretty small area, I won't be applying anymore for the rest of this season in that specific area. As far as noticeable results you'll probably notice them within a couple months or maybe sooner. The main difference I notice is when you use a probe on the soil and you see how easy it goes into it. Which will obviously help with drainage etc. Hopefully that helps!
@@Cpimms Thanks for taking the time reply so fully. Much appreciated 👍 I was thinking of this humic acid as well as a normal spring fert for grass obviously. Although I wonder if this would be over doing things and do more damage than good?
Sure thing! Always try to help if I can. I hear what you mean by that. Like I said, Gypsum is not really going to hurt anything. Also like I mentioned you can just start out with a small amount and see what you think personally. I think you'll be totally fine. If you want you can also split it up. Apply the Gypsum one week then next week apply your humic acid. Or however you choose to do it. Honestly people tend to be afraid of "doing too much" but sometimes it's the best way to learn so you know what works and what doesn't. The grass will recover just might take a little longer or you'll have to patch it. I've definitely been there and done that before. It's part of it for sure
I've definitely noticed a big difference! Especially in areas I used to always have trouble with. Granted some of that is also because of the grass type I chose which is more flexible with certain conditions compared to others. But overall I've been impressed! I'm definitely planning to use it again for next years season. Going to be addressing more of the problem areas and doing a "compaction mix" as well.
It's relatively simple. All you need to do is pull a couple cores out if you have a coring tool. From there you will be able to tell what the majority of your soil looks like. Clay soil is soil that really likes to stick together and usually pretty compacted which makes it harder to break up. Sandy and Silty soil will be able to break up easier and also have better drainage. There are definitely videos out there that go more into depth about it which I would suggest looking into. You could also look into soil testing to see what nutrients your soil specifically needs. Hopefully that helps!
I think the concept is to apply about 40 pounds of gypsum per 1,000 square feet of area. Also you need to then use a rototiller to then mix it into the soil.
I've never had a specific issue with going over the rate you mentioned. No side effects from doing so. Also you could rototill if you want to. Is it absolutely necessary? No. It's made to break down on its own over time as water hits it so it can work its way down into the soil. So there's really no benefit to rototilling it in afterwards. Plus after doing that your most likely going to have to re-level everything making it double the work.
A general rule is heavy clay is also very alkaline so i would recommend a fast acting sulfur. Organic matter and carbon carbon carbon. Green sand is good too and you can't over use greensand
I used gypsum undo my garden vegetables this year. I had a huge harvest especially tomatoes and zucchini. 😄
Nice!! That's awesome! Shoot I might have to try that sometime. Never thought about using it for vegetable plants before
Top notch bro science 🤙
I would first do a soil test, and if the soil was deficient in calcium with a low PH would put gypsum down. Otherwise, blindly adding gypsum could ruin the lawn.
I would agree with the soil test. Still planning to get one done too. I'm not too concerned since gypsum doesn't affect PH. Plus I only applied it to the areas where it's just bare soil. Still going to be a little bit before the new sod goes in. I've used it before and haven't ruined my lawns in any way. I think it would take quite a lot of gypsum to affect the lawn in that way.
How about old sheet rock ( dry wall) letting it rot in the soil over winter you know let natrue do its thing rain snow rot ect ect does that work
I've never tried or experienced doing it that way so I can't really say if I would recommend it or not. If you wanted to try that I'd probably try breaking it all up to get it into smaller pieces and maybe even into like powder form like the stuff I used. If you let stuff sit on the lawn for too long it could do more damage than good. Like if you had bigger pieces and just threw them out there, by the time it were to fully break down you'd probably have damaged areas in the lawn from it just sitting. If you're referring to trying it on just bare soil, then I could possibly see that not being an issue. Also the gypsum usually comes in the granular pellets or powder form for a reason because it breaks down fast into the soil. Similar to compost as well. Hopefully that helps!
It's what they make drywall from.
I noticed you never put any on the grass which I'm assuming would be sitting on clay soil? Is it not reccomend for application over grass? Also. How often would you apply this per season and how long before you see tangible results?
Yes you're correct on that. It's all clay soil. The reason why I didn't put it on the existing grass is because I'm mainly focused on the bare soil area where new sod will be going. All prep work basically. I eventually plan to apply some to the existing grass area as well. You can totally apply it on an existing lawn no problem! From what I've seen people suggest around 30-40 Lbs per 1,000 Sq. Ft. However I feel like it's all personal preference. Gypsum isn't going to really hurt the grass or soil if you choose to apply it heavy. I'd say if it's your first time applying it I'd start out probably with a little less than that. Maybe 10 Lbs per 1,000 just so you can see how it works. You can always apply more afterwards if you choose to . For instance since I went heavy in a pretty small area, I won't be applying anymore for the rest of this season in that specific area. As far as noticeable results you'll probably notice them within a couple months or maybe sooner. The main difference I notice is when you use a probe on the soil and you see how easy it goes into it. Which will obviously help with drainage etc. Hopefully that helps!
@@Cpimms Thanks for taking the time reply so fully. Much appreciated 👍 I was thinking of this humic acid as well as a normal spring fert for grass obviously. Although I wonder if this would be over doing things and do more damage than good?
Sure thing! Always try to help if I can. I hear what you mean by that. Like I said, Gypsum is not really going to hurt anything. Also like I mentioned you can just start out with a small amount and see what you think personally. I think you'll be totally fine. If you want you can also split it up. Apply the Gypsum one week then next week apply your humic acid. Or however you choose to do it. Honestly people tend to be afraid of "doing too much" but sometimes it's the best way to learn so you know what works and what doesn't. The grass will recover just might take a little longer or you'll have to patch it. I've definitely been there and done that before. It's part of it for sure
@@Cpimms Thanks again 👍
hows the soil now after 8 months? i swear by gypsum for clay
I've definitely noticed a big difference! Especially in areas I used to always have trouble with. Granted some of that is also because of the grass type I chose which is more flexible with certain conditions compared to others. But overall I've been impressed! I'm definitely planning to use it again for next years season. Going to be addressing more of the problem areas and doing a "compaction mix" as well.
How do i know what soil i have?
It's relatively simple. All you need to do is pull a couple cores out if you have a coring tool. From there you will be able to tell what the majority of your soil looks like. Clay soil is soil that really likes to stick together and usually pretty compacted which makes it harder to break up. Sandy and Silty soil will be able to break up easier and also have better drainage. There are definitely videos out there that go more into depth about it which I would suggest looking into. You could also look into soil testing to see what nutrients your soil specifically needs. Hopefully that helps!
Music choice made this video annoying.
Yea, because the music you listen to is any better. 😂
Nice clueless and pointless comment. 🙄
@@codywernsman9452 reminds you of your mother right!? Clueless! 🤣