Come for the photography lesson, stay for the location scouting! What a terrific range of locations, Pye, from the San Gorgonio Pass wind turbines to DTLA to the mean streets of Tustin/Irvine to Laguna to Balboa Park in San Diego and then on to the Great Salt Lake. Big fun! Thanks for the vicarious vacation!
Learnt a lot from this video. Thank you Adorama and Pye. Quick question...In locking focus on your subject, do you change the focus mode from auto to manual on the lens when shooting other parts using the Brenizer method?
Hi i have a question regarding stitching the photos together, we can focus on the subject to get that shallow depth of field but how to achieve same depth of field when shooting the area next to the subject, where to focus and how.
Great job as always! Now I’m conflicted on whether I should go play with these ideas immediately or continue to hide in the comfort of my air conditioning for a few months before seeing the light of day.
Brenizer did not address one problem: the foreground does not overlap in the same way as the background when you rotate the camera handheld. You need a "nodal rail" between camera and tripod head to slide the nodal point of your lens above the rotation point of the tripod head. This mismatch in the foreground relative to the background can cause big problems with your pano stitching software. The 50mm reduces this foreground issue, but held vertically, you come in the danger zone again, however the shallow depth of field proposed here mitigates this a bit. Seems to me Pye shoots most from a tripod here, so the nodal rail is just a small additional attribute, especially if everything is based on Arca quick release couplings. Example. I shot a landscape panorama handheld with a 35mm (full frame) and Lightroom could stitch one of three handheld sequences in an acceptable way. 3 times 46 megapixel and a badass workstation had no issues digesting this. Testing and exercising the new camera, I did another pano a week later, handheld again, and paid more attention to mimic nodal from handheld. Lightroom could not stitch it. Over to Photoshop and after a couple failures and altered settings, at some point it succeeded. It looked very good on my 4K display. The photo had no sentimental nor artistic value and was just an "étude". A week later I revisited that pano and clicked in it, to see it at 100%, and panned the pano across the monitor: the third frame gave me the WTF OMG. What happened? The second exercise weekend, I had set the camera to a, new for me, AutoFocus setting, where the camera selects what to focus on. Forgotten to take it off of that. First two shots the camera had focused at infinity. The third shot had a shrub in the foreground and AI had selected that to focus on. Consequently, Photoshop had stitched the middle with sharp background and the third image with sharp foreground and figured out a zigzag random looking line where a seamless transition seemed to be. And Lightroom did not have the intel to stitch this. As I have a 3D pano head I have taken it apart so I can bring just one rail with me for single row panos when planning a shoot. Assuming your camera is on and Arca compatible L bracket, you need an Arca compatible rail with sliding Arca compatible quick mount on it. For each lens you need to find the nodal point and as the rail will have a ruler scale, note the numbers down for each lens. I am not sure that a zoomlens should have fixed nodal point. You could use a SunwayFoto 240x16mm Multi-Purpose Rail SKU: SUNDPG2416R MFR: DPG2416R (Adorama, $30) with a SunwayFoto DDH-07N Panoramic Panning Clamp SKU: SUNDDH07N MFR: DDH-07N (Adorama $59) and have your nodal slide, assuming the panning rotation is served b y the Arca style tripod head. A complete pan set would come with one or two rotation aids that have click points for different lenses so you can quickly rotate fro click to click if you set the clicker to the right lens angle - no need to look for overlap (see SunwayFoto DDP-64M Indexing Rotator for HDR Panoramas, 22.04lbs Capacity SKU: SUNDDP64M MFR: DDP-64M, Adorama $75)
I get what you’re saying, but the title of the video says, “without buying gear”. It may not give you the same results, but you can still get very good results without the rail.
These were all great! I have a question that could end up being a video idea: I've seen digital backgrounds for compositing and you'd have to shoot/light your subject - but have you tried shooting your own digital backgrounds (maybe in a stitch) to use them later on with the subject being shot elsewhere (backyard, studio, etc)?
For that second technique, depending on your camera/lens, you may need to turn off image stabilization, as it may want to try to compensate for your panning. If this just isn't working for you, tunr off IS and see if it helps.
Chock full of useful stuff, but I chuckle that it was supposedly "without buying additional gear". Then you show a killer image using the tilt shift. Ha! Well, I do have one, but most people don't. But I usually blur stuff in post so I will benefit from using the tilt shift more often.
Well you sure need basic equipment like camera and lens to take a picture. This is just saying you can take great shots with what you have which could be that basic equipment
@@Ngaijames It aint about luck. The brenizer method Pye mentioned, I do it a lot using the camera on my phone. Y'all can't tell me you don't have a phone that has a camera!
Very good ideas. Great examples. Awesome.
A superb video. Well explained and very instructive. Thank you.
Nice as usual! Thanks for the tips
I'm simple. A video by Pye is uploaded and I like it and listen. I cannot get enough of Pye!
Great techniques and ideas. Thank you, Pye!
This is fantastic! Thank you Pye. Thank you Adorama. 👌🏾✌🏾
Muchas gracias
Your content is awesome and so easy to follow. I just subscribed.
Amazing techniques and a great presentation..luv it
Thanks for the great info. Will. Be putting to use.
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 Very interesting technics!
Excellent explanations
Great job as usual Pye.
Excellent reminders!
I love your videos, Pye! Thank you!
Excellent info. Thanks for sharing your photography skill and knowledge.
Great video.. I bought your posing guide series last year, hope to start on that soon
Thank you Pye! as always, great content, and tips! Stay safe...Cheers from Portugal!
Love the new ideas you always put forth; keep up the great output!
Thanks! Love these videos... so helpful for amateur photogs like myself. Thanks for making it.
Thanks! very cool tips
Good tips Pye.
Excellent video. Pye is an amazing photographer, and I really love his videos. I always learn so much. It would be great to take a workshop with him.
hello.. very nice technique... you make pictures look like a oil painting...very artististic and explained in very simple way...🌸
Love how pye explains everything. Learnt everything i know from Pye and adorama
Ditto 👍👌
wow! the first method of shooting wide love it I ll try tht thanks
Well done. Thanks.
Thanks very useful tips 💪
thanks a lot for these great ideas.
Awesome tips, thanks
Come for the photography lesson, stay for the location scouting! What a terrific range of locations, Pye, from the San Gorgonio Pass wind turbines to DTLA to the mean streets of Tustin/Irvine to Laguna to Balboa Park in San Diego and then on to the Great Salt Lake. Big fun! Thanks for the vicarious vacation!
Thank you, this is very informative.. :)
Absolutely loved it. Thanks for sharing. Question? About the ND filter I noticed you didn’t mount it on? Are you just holding it up against the lens ?
Thanks..you are great
Amazing Technique!
Thank you!
on #1 is the pano mode in camera similar to that?
Great ideas!
Thankyou ❤
Learnt a lot from this video. Thank you Adorama and Pye. Quick question...In locking focus on your subject, do you change the focus mode from auto to manual on the lens when shooting other parts using the Brenizer method?
Really great having some new ideas. I’m getting bored with my regular shots.
வீடியோ மிகவும் பயனுள்ளதாக இருந்தது மிக்க நன்றி 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
R.மனோகர் சென்னை .
Very useful this video sir big thank you 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
R.MANOHAR
Chennai.
Great i love these videos ❤️
this is affectively life of pye 😊
Hi i have a question regarding stitching the photos together, we can focus on the subject to get that shallow depth of field but how to achieve same depth of field when shooting the area next to the subject, where to focus and how.
Useful stuff
Great video, thanks. Once it stops raining and blowing a gale here I'm out to try them
Great job as always! Now I’m conflicted on whether I should go play with these ideas immediately or continue to hide in the comfort of my air conditioning for a few months before seeing the light of day.
Brenizer did not address one problem: the foreground does not overlap in the same way as the background when you rotate the camera handheld. You need a "nodal rail" between camera and tripod head to slide the nodal point of your lens above the rotation point of the tripod head. This mismatch in the foreground relative to the background can cause big problems with your pano stitching software.
The 50mm reduces this foreground issue, but held vertically, you come in the danger zone again, however the shallow depth of field proposed here mitigates this a bit.
Seems to me Pye shoots most from a tripod here, so the nodal rail is just a small additional attribute, especially if everything is based on Arca quick release couplings.
Example.
I shot a landscape panorama handheld with a 35mm (full frame) and Lightroom could stitch one of three handheld sequences in an acceptable way. 3 times 46 megapixel and a badass workstation had no issues digesting this.
Testing and exercising the new camera, I did another pano a week later, handheld again, and paid more attention to mimic nodal from handheld. Lightroom could not stitch it.
Over to Photoshop and after a couple failures and altered settings, at some point it succeeded. It looked very good on my 4K display. The photo had no sentimental nor artistic value and was just an "étude". A week later I revisited that pano and clicked in it, to see it at 100%, and panned the pano across the monitor: the third frame gave me the WTF OMG. What happened? The second exercise weekend, I had set the camera to a, new for me, AutoFocus setting, where the camera selects what to focus on. Forgotten to take it off of that. First two shots the camera had focused at infinity. The third shot had a shrub in the foreground and AI had selected that to focus on. Consequently, Photoshop had stitched the middle with sharp background and the third image with sharp foreground and figured out a zigzag random looking line where a seamless transition seemed to be. And Lightroom did not have the intel to stitch this.
As I have a 3D pano head I have taken it apart so I can bring just one rail with me for single row panos when planning a shoot.
Assuming your camera is on and Arca compatible L bracket, you need an Arca compatible rail with sliding Arca compatible quick mount on it.
For each lens you need to find the nodal point and as the rail will have a ruler scale, note the numbers down for each lens. I am not sure that a zoomlens should have fixed nodal point.
You could use a SunwayFoto 240x16mm Multi-Purpose Rail SKU: SUNDPG2416R MFR: DPG2416R (Adorama, $30) with a SunwayFoto DDH-07N Panoramic Panning Clamp SKU: SUNDDH07N MFR: DDH-07N (Adorama $59) and have your nodal slide, assuming the panning rotation is served b y the Arca style tripod head.
A complete pan set would come with one or two rotation aids that have click points for different lenses so you can quickly rotate fro click to click if you set the clicker to the right lens angle - no need to look for overlap (see SunwayFoto DDP-64M Indexing Rotator for HDR Panoramas, 22.04lbs Capacity SKU: SUNDDP64M MFR: DDP-64M, Adorama $75)
I get what you’re saying, but the title of the video says, “without buying gear”.
It may not give you the same results, but you can still get very good results without the rail.
These were all great!
I have a question that could end up being a video idea:
I've seen digital backgrounds for compositing and you'd have to shoot/light your subject - but have you tried shooting your own digital backgrounds (maybe in a stitch) to use them later on with the subject being shot elsewhere (backyard, studio, etc)?
...and how would you go about it?
@@matthiaswiegand1654 em, dude. it's backgrounds. You just press the button multiple times and it's done
THANKS
cool video
Seems you could achieve the same effect using layers and combine shots ?
For that second technique, depending on your camera/lens, you may need to turn off image stabilization, as it may want to try to compensate for your panning. If this just isn't working for you, tunr off IS and see if it helps.
Question about the first one;
Once you have your subjects in focus you don't re-engage the focus button for the rest of the shots right?
Chock full of useful stuff, but I chuckle that it was supposedly "without buying additional gear". Then you show a killer image using the tilt shift. Ha! Well, I do have one, but most people don't. But I usually blur stuff in post so I will benefit from using the tilt shift more often.
So, for technique #1, are you physically moving to capture the left/right of the scene - or are you rotating the camera on a tripod head?
epic
Thanks for all the good creative tips! #CreateNoMatterWhat and come over to discord and join the conversation with @lastxwitness
Lol how are you shooting in the middle of the street traffic light???
So basically 1 Technique to shoot photos without buying more gear:
Already have all the gear
Well you sure need basic equipment like camera and lens to take a picture. This is just saying you can take great shots with what you have which could be that basic equipment
lucky you
@@Ngaijames It aint about luck. The brenizer method Pye mentioned, I do it a lot using the camera on my phone. Y'all can't tell me you don't have a phone that has a camera!
I see otus...
The title is misleading. I thought you are going to teach us how to have good image, with only using few gears, like what you mention in your intro
This is about prime lens... what if you dont own a prime... the title lied.... they could have chosen a different. Name... sadly misleading
Shoot with a zoom and don't change the focal length.
Everything else applies.
I stitch together panos all the time with my 70-200 set to 70.
huh? none of these techniques required a prime lens. See Randy's comment, he's 100% right on.
What are you saying? I have several shots I did using the brenizer method with my iPhone please. Next!!
Level up?? what does that even mean? I think you mean increase.