The factory backslash spec is for new gears, it's close enough that they wear in together. You want to match the backlash as close as possible because those gears have already worn in together.
"There's the right way to do something, and then there's also the easier and cheaper way that . . . will probably still work." Yep. Uh-huh. This is where I need to be. Subbed
If anyone here ever needs to install the bearings without the use of a press fallow these instructions. Clean the diff. ●Lightly file or sand any sharp edges smooth ●Put Diff in freezer on the coldest setting 3hrs minimum ●Place inner bearing race in a fryer set to 400°F ●Remove diff from freezer and stabilize in the vertical orientation. ● Remove bearings while wearing welding gloves and drop straight onto shaft. ● Flip diff and repeat. ☆☆☆☆ If the bearings don't drop all the way down go get it pressed on☆☆☆☆
@@alexhise968 per Timken, absolutely no bearing should be heated past 250. I rebuild industrial gearbox for a living in a Timken platinum certified shop.
By far the most competent guy doing these types of videos. If i have to watch one more video of a guy filming with his potato saying “i got uhh a uhm...then you gotta...err” im going to blow my brains out. Thank you good sir🙏
For brake bleeding, clear vinyl tube works good, one end over the bleed screw the other in a small container with clean brake fluid ( stops air from sneaking back in)
Right choice on the ARB air locker. Has been using the same locker on my front and rear diffs for more than 16 years. The video still funny and love the hula girl on your dash
Well I woke up this morning to the news Toyota is putting a rear locker in the new trail edition, of course they didn’t in my 21 trail edition. Now I’m on a mission to install a rear locker. Thanks for the great video.
You don't need to use a hydraulic press to get the bearings on. You would find it easier if you have an induction hot plate to heat the bearing up which will expand the bearing. When it's hot enough they will just drop onto the shaft, allow to cool and repeat for the other side.
Same for dropping a ring gear onto a differential unit....Heat that puppy to 220-250degrees and the ring gear will fall onto the carrier...can also put the carrier into the freezer if you like.
Be real careful not to overheat those carefully hardened parts. Anything above 120°C / 248°F will reduce the service life of the bearing. The gold standard for DIY heating of bearings is with a pot of mineral oil and a thermometer.
This right here is why I made sure to get the factory lockers in my FJ and 4runner. But I thoroughly enjoyed this vid anyway. Nothing makes me tackle an automotive project I don't want to do faster than someone trying to charge me a ridiculous amount of money for something that shouldn't cost that much. ;)
I was gonna be complimentative but @Elliot Blackwood hit the nail on the head. Subbed for concise instructions, clean editing, lots of information and funny too.
so.... yourr video and thought process has me debating if i want to try this on my front and rear.... i really want to install my own locker and set my gears!
Hi Matt, go to the hardware store and get plastic tubing, I have about four feet of it. take a used brake fluid bottle and drill a hole in the cap a little smaller than the tubing and push it through. take the other side of the tubing and stretch the end so it fits on the nipple for the brake bleeder ( you have to get the right size tubing). Viola, bleeding with very little mess.
great youtube history, congrats, but, i was surprised you didn't check gear contact patch with die or paint to see if your pinion shimming was still correct, one step always done when done right, in my observations, i was researching and close to adding front and rear limited slip to my 2001 4x4 1/2 ton black Suburban LS. it was so heavy in sunk and slipped a lot. so my research and elevator experience agreed with not only checking the side shims for preload but, also the pinion shim for gear contact patch. what did you experience, no change notifiable?
Nice video. Consider power washing and raptor coating your axles and undercarriage. Also, it looks like you do not pressure wash after wheeling. If you do apologies, but if you do not I would highly recommend doing it.
Loving the videos ... on a side note, what lift, tires and wheels are you running? I’ve got a limited as well and just about to put some KO2’s and a Torq-Engineering 3/1 leveling lift. Likely going with 17x8.5 with either 0 or -10mm offset and 4.75 BS (slightly less BS with the 10mm offset x can’t recall exact number). Also just subbed, thought I did that after the roof rack vid - still debating the build/buy on that one.
My offroad Mercedes roadster needed a locker, so I acquired one for a Jeep and then did a bunch of machining to make it work in the Mercedes diff. I guarantee I have the only Mercedes roadster with a Jeep diff locker in it.
And this is why i use a mechanical Detroit Locker in my jeep and Bronco. Installations much easier. No o rings to worry about going bad. And no onboard air compressor to purchase and install. Although the compressors nice to have for airing up tire pressure after running trails. But theres usually a gas station a few miles from most trails in Phoenix and Mesa.
So 2:36. Pretty sure u can just use bearing grease (slides in easier) and a soft-faced sledge hammer (prevents damage when hitting it in) or just hit it softly with a normal sledge hammer.
I could be doing it wrong but I just got a glass sparkling water bottle, drilled a hole in the cap, put some 1/4 inch tube in it, then attach it to the bleed nipple. I make sure the hose goes up before it goes down to catch bubbles. You can bleed with one person but it helps with two to see bubbles.
Greetings from Southern Brexitland, I don't understand how you don't have thousands of subscribers 😂 absolute legend 👌 keep trucking dude ! Just wondering - what is it you do for a living ? A man with that many dtis and access to such a shiny press begs the question :)
Some people would say that it’s more important to have a front locker than the rear if you have an independent front and solid rear because there’s a lot more articulation on the solid than independent. But literally every manufacture who gives you a factory locker puts it on the back unless they give you both front and back. Their “experts” probably know what they’re doing.
When I grenade'd the locker on my Jeep Rubicon several years ago, I bought a replacement and took it to a local shop that specializes in rear ends. They swapped it in for $250 and it's worked perfectly since then. Your $1,000 quote seems rather high.... On another note, having a front locker makes a huge difference in many situations, it's 3 vs. 4 wheel drive. There have been many times when being able to lock the front made the difference between driving out, and winching out.
I was quoted 1k in labor for an ARB elocker as well from a very reputable 4wd shop in Denver. Air lockers are also a little more finicky than elockers. They probably bake a little extra into the price in case someone comes back with an air leak which is a pretty common issue wot have with ARBs.
Hey Matt, you never checked your contact pattern between the gears. Is there a reason for this I am not seeing? Maybe because you didn't change your pinion gear bearings? 🤔 I did this on my HJ61 9" differentials, but on these the preload and backslash is also set a little different.
I've installed the bearings by heating them sufficiently (with map gas torch (the yellow bottle one)) and quickly placing them on. Have a piece of wood and BAHammer to make a final smack cause if it cools its in place and then you gottta buy a press
@@ronaldcubillo4950 the atrac works when 1 tire is in the air and looses grip some times its not enough and the locker helps more. search you tube for atrac demonstrations in sand.
Use a hose and jug. The hose goes on the brake caliper grommet and the old break fluid goes in the jug. Just have a second person to push brake pedal until no air bubbles come out in the jug.
Here is how you can install a bearing without a press. Get a small pot, fill it with enough oil to cover the bearing. Heat the bearing to 350f. Remove it with pliers and drop it on. It will just drop, wait for it to cool and Bob's your uncle, it's installed. I have a camp stove I used.
If you don't have lockers at all, start with a rear locker. That will cover 98% of your terrain needs. You really don't need a front locker unless you're doing some wickedly technical terrain which will also require big ass tires, lift, UCA's, clearance, etc.
Hotdog Man but if you’re buying a new truck then you get the warranty if something does wrong with the locker. Plus realistically, how many people would actually do the installation themselves? I wouldn’t. I’m not brave enough.
@@alecbryantalledo ARB lockers aren't that great and have known problems with newer designs...mostly blowing seals. Factory lockers are pretty damn reliable, don't require onboard air and lines that leak
I have an 03 TJ Rubicon with factory air lockers that have 8psi to hold them in place. I was told that the ARB is 70psi. If rock crawling was my thing I see an advantage but for FS roads I travel the factory ones work great. 07 and up have electric lockers.
If you don't use thread locker on the ring gear bolt, they (3 of them) could possibly back out and slowly shave the heads off. I'm just guessing, but it was a pretty good reason to get a new rear end...
I had an ARB air locker installed on my 1986 1/2 Nissan Pickup. The only problem I had with it is that it wanted to pump differential fluid from the differential up through the air line.
I really hope you see this Matt. I always say I'm a carpenter not a wizard. Well now I can be a wizard for you. You can gravity bleed brakes. Jack up all 4 corners, take off tires, drain pans under each wheel (should do all 4 at same time closing off lines in standard order). 1 man job. Takes about 30-40 minutes which is perfect to eat a sandwich and watch one of your vids!
Based on experience, no, you shouldn't use Philips bits on Pozidriv heads, and vice versa. It's probably your sense of humor shining through but I feel that if you're advanced enough to tackle this type of installation you should have a #3 Pozidriv bit in your toolbox. :)
I bet in math class the teachers were always scared when you raised your hand and said " I didn't do it that way" lol
The factory backslash spec is for new gears, it's close enough that they wear in together. You want to match the backlash as close as possible because those gears have already worn in together.
Your snarkiness and self-deprecation is entertaining to this fellow gearhead/nerd. Keep the vids coming!
9:44: I did try to tighten PZ screws with PH bits (as well as vice versa) and I strongly advise against it.
"There's the right way to do something, and then there's also the easier and cheaper way that . . . will probably still work."
Yep. Uh-huh. This is where I need to be. Subbed
If anyone here ever needs to install the bearings without the use of a press fallow these instructions. Clean the diff. ●Lightly file or sand any sharp edges smooth
●Put Diff in freezer on the coldest setting 3hrs minimum
●Place inner bearing race in a fryer set to 400°F
●Remove diff from freezer and stabilize in the vertical orientation.
● Remove bearings while wearing welding gloves and drop straight onto shaft.
● Flip diff and repeat.
☆☆☆☆ If the bearings don't drop all the way down go get it pressed on☆☆☆☆
400 is way too hot for a bearing. 250 is the absolute max temp before you cook the bearing.
A open steel cage bearing wont be cooked at all at 400 we use bearing heaters at work that will go all the way to 550 on some pump shaft assemblies
@@alexhise968 per Timken, absolutely no bearing should be heated past 250. I rebuild industrial gearbox for a living in a Timken platinum certified shop.
I learned more about installing/setting up a diff in this video than any other I have watched.
By far the most competent guy doing these types of videos. If i have to watch one more video of a guy filming with his potato saying “i got uhh a uhm...then you gotta...err” im going to blow my brains out. Thank you good sir🙏
👆👆👆👍👍👍👍
For brake bleeding, clear vinyl tube works good, one end over the bleed screw the other in a small container with clean brake fluid ( stops air from sneaking back in)
Half baked and reasonably good! Sounds like i'm at the right channel!
Right choice on the ARB air locker. Has been using the same locker on my front and rear diffs for more than 16 years. The video still funny and love the hula girl on your dash
Well I woke up this morning to the news Toyota is putting a rear locker in the new trail edition, of course they didn’t in my 21 trail edition. Now I’m on a mission to install a rear locker. Thanks for the great video.
I installed a air locker on my XJ in the rear and man do i love how easy it was to install with old technology
Well looks like I’ll be spending $2K for someone to install lol.
Yeah. When I need to be 6/1000th of an inch precise, I'm hiring someone else not to F that up.
Came to leave this same comment lol
Same lol
me too lol
This video of yours is from 3 years ago….long enough to have finally come to the realization that you should have gone with E- lockers
Making a diff spreader should be pretty simple & I really think they’re necessary for most Dana axles. Other than that, I think you’re 100% on point!
You don't need to use a hydraulic press to get the bearings on.
You would find it easier if you have an induction hot plate to heat the bearing up which will expand the bearing.
When it's hot enough they will just drop onto the shaft, allow to cool and repeat for the other side.
Same for dropping a ring gear onto a differential unit....Heat that puppy to 220-250degrees and the ring gear will fall onto the carrier...can also put the carrier into the freezer if you like.
Be real careful not to overheat those carefully hardened parts. Anything above 120°C / 248°F will reduce the service life of the bearing. The gold standard for DIY heating of bearings is with a pot of mineral oil and a thermometer.
Having built a complete model in cad (without one on hand) down to each bolt and oil sling, it was supercool too see one taken apart for maintenance
This right here is why I made sure to get the factory lockers in my FJ and 4runner. But I thoroughly enjoyed this vid anyway. Nothing makes me tackle an automotive project I don't want to do faster than someone trying to charge me a ridiculous amount of money for something that shouldn't cost that much. ;)
The commentary on this is gold
Yeah...never ... ever.... going to ever attempt that...but a thoroughly entertaining video.
I was gonna be complimentative but @Elliot Blackwood hit the nail on the head. Subbed for concise instructions, clean editing, lots of information and funny too.
so.... yourr video and thought process has me debating if i want to try this on my front and rear.... i really want to install my own locker and set my gears!
Hi Matt, go to the hardware store and get plastic tubing, I have about four feet of it. take a used brake fluid bottle and drill a hole in the cap a little smaller than the tubing and push it through. take the other side of the tubing and stretch the end so it fits on the nipple for the brake bleeder ( you have to get the right size tubing). Viola, bleeding with very little mess.
Your install was great to watch. I am scared to try this myself yet
love your sense of humor!
"If you're someone that likes to follow the instructions, well you're probably watching the wrong video" ... this guy kills
me!
My new favorite channel. Keep the awesome vids coming!!!!
Very good vid, would have like more questions covered. How this mod affects the atrac, Does it need to be canceled? Things like that
great youtube history, congrats, but, i was surprised you didn't check gear contact patch with die or paint to see if your pinion shimming was still correct, one step always done when done right, in my observations, i was researching and close to adding front and rear limited slip to my 2001 4x4 1/2 ton black Suburban LS. it was so heavy in sunk and slipped a lot. so my research and elevator experience agreed with not only checking the side shims for preload but, also the pinion shim for gear contact patch. what did you experience, no change notifiable?
Nice video. Consider power washing and raptor coating your axles and undercarriage. Also, it looks like you do not pressure wash after wheeling. If you do apologies, but if you do not I would highly recommend doing it.
Loving the videos ... on a side note, what lift, tires and wheels are you running? I’ve got a limited as well and just about to put some KO2’s and a Torq-Engineering 3/1 leveling lift. Likely going with 17x8.5 with either 0 or -10mm offset and 4.75 BS (slightly less BS with the 10mm offset x can’t recall exact number). Also just subbed, thought I did that after the roof rack vid - still debating the build/buy on that one.
I know you are thinking this cause I was thinking this - haha. Love it!
My offroad Mercedes roadster needed a locker, so I acquired one for a Jeep and then did a bunch of machining to make it work in the Mercedes diff. I guarantee I have the only Mercedes roadster with a Jeep diff locker in it.
Half baked and questionably good. Damn, wish I could say you had me at hello. But that would be a lie and I'm straight.
Fran friggin tastic video.
Simple and you let it look easy but its actually not that easy 👏🏻👏🏻
Had a local shop quote me $4K parts and labor. This self install is looking more and more appealing
Sometimes, SuperfastMatt is SupersketchyMatt, but that's cool because... he's still always Super! 😁👍
And this is why i use a mechanical Detroit Locker in my jeep and Bronco. Installations much easier. No o rings to worry about going bad. And no onboard air compressor to purchase and install. Although the compressors nice to have for airing up tire pressure after running trails. But theres usually a gas station a few miles from most trails in Phoenix and Mesa.
love those instructions! great insight
thank you so very much. merry christmas.
This video was awesome. Great images that we're essential to my understanding.
So 2:36. Pretty sure u can just use bearing grease (slides in easier) and a soft-faced sledge hammer (prevents damage when hitting it in) or just hit it softly with a normal sledge hammer.
I could be doing it wrong but I just got a glass sparkling water bottle, drilled a hole in the cap, put some 1/4 inch tube in it, then attach it to the bleed nipple. I make sure the hose goes up before it goes down to catch bubbles. You can bleed with one person but it helps with two to see bubbles.
Informative and entertaining with a lot of other intriguing ideas on the channel - definitely worth a sub. Many thanks.
Hey Matt why did´nt you build a diff spreader out of a coupple of turnbuckles and a bit of flat bar?
Because I didn't need to. but be assured I would have engineered something jankey if I had needed it.
@@SuperfastMatt Yea I redid a light truck Diff a few Months ago and boy did I need it, so turnbuckles it was.
I find your videos very funny 😂 thanks I will install e locker
Great video. Please provide a web link where you purchased that locker. should i add a locker for the front differential too.
Greetings from Southern Brexitland, I don't understand how you don't have thousands of subscribers 😂 absolute legend 👌 keep trucking dude !
Just wondering - what is it you do for a living ? A man with that many dtis and access to such a shiny press begs the question :)
Great video. What regulator did you use?
reasons you used the air locker over the detroit spur/worm gear automatic setup?
Nice how long did it take you to complete
Some people would say that it’s more important to have a front locker than the rear if you have an independent front and solid rear because there’s a lot more articulation on the solid than independent. But literally every manufacture who gives you a factory locker puts it on the back unless they give you both front and back. Their “experts” probably know what they’re doing.
A locker on the IFS front end will eventually end up in broken CVs .
Seth Coleman Colorado zr2 has a locker on ifs.
@@JonBecker81 yeah, but just because gm does it - doesn't make it a good idea.
@@JonBecker81 IFS's are notorious for weak CV's.
"You'll feel like a total professional with this piece of precision machining equipment that you bought from Harbor Freight" :D
This was brilliant. Thanks.
When I grenade'd the locker on my Jeep Rubicon several years ago, I bought a replacement and took it to a local shop that specializes in rear ends. They swapped it in for $250 and it's worked perfectly since then. Your $1,000 quote seems rather high.... On another note, having a front locker makes a huge difference in many situations, it's 3 vs. 4 wheel drive. There have been many times when being able to lock the front made the difference between driving out, and winching out.
I was quoted 1k in labor for an ARB elocker as well from a very reputable 4wd shop in Denver. Air lockers are also a little more finicky than elockers. They probably bake a little extra into the price in case someone comes back with an air leak which is a pretty common issue wot have with ARBs.
Are you sure you are an engineer? Or is it my bad I listened to all your guys instructions in the manuals for the last 25yrs.
Dude you are awesome keep the videos coming
Hey Matt, you never checked your contact pattern between the gears.
Is there a reason for this I am not seeing?
Maybe because you didn't change your pinion gear bearings? 🤔
I did this on my HJ61 9" differentials, but on these the preload and backslash is also set a little different.
aye aye rear and centre (diff locks) what’s your thoughts on Limited Slip Diff (thought better not abbreviate) on rear vs lock?
Luckily I am nowhere near a desert but I did go to Tempe AZ a few times. Hail the algorithm!
Do you have a part number for the ARB locker? I havea 2020 4Runner and would like to buy it, thanks
RD193
you should like, make more videos
I'm curious as to why you chose a locker over a Torsen or similar.
Do you do a lot of heavy off road and rock crawling or?
I've installed the bearings by heating them sufficiently (with map gas torch (the yellow bottle one)) and quickly placing them on. Have a piece of wood and BAHammer to make a final smack cause if it cools its in place and then you gottta buy a press
Super great video Matt! Thank you
I'm a little confused. So you don't need to use atrac anymore?
you ca use both
@@iwantoffroad what’s the point? They both are the same thing no? Sorry, I’m new to this
@@ronaldcubillo4950 the atrac works when 1 tire is in the air and looses grip some times its not enough and the locker helps more. search you tube for atrac demonstrations in sand.
Hello. Hope you're all doing well. I want to know if it's possible to install one of these on a 1996-2000 toyota rav4
Subbed man you have the channel I want to have! Good stuff 👍😁
I would call my self a DIY guy, until I came across changing a diff.
Use a hose and jug. The hose goes on the brake caliper grommet and the old break fluid goes in the jug. Just have a second person to push brake pedal until no air bubbles come out in the jug.
Do you have any suggest what rear diff lock for my 2WD hilux/fortuner?
Thanks Matt! It's been 5 months since the upload. Has it held up well?
I'm a little late on the reply, but yes! it has held up perfectly.
Oh my god this video is good and entertaining
I enjoy your videos, keep it up. Also, you work at Tesla don't you?
Here is how you can install a bearing without a press. Get a small pot, fill it with enough oil to cover the bearing. Heat the bearing to 350f. Remove it with pliers and drop it on. It will just drop, wait for it to cool and Bob's your uncle, it's installed. I have a camp stove I used.
Thank you!! Cool video
Follow up? How are the gears running
Great! They lock and unlock with no issues.
If you had a 4th Gen, where would you put it? Front or back? I really do t know.
If you don't have lockers at all, start with a rear locker. That will cover 98% of your terrain needs. You really don't need a front locker unless you're doing some wickedly technical terrain which will also require big ass tires, lift, UCA's, clearance, etc.
So if shopping new, go with the TRD off-road instead of SR5 is what it sounds like. Or is the ARB locker more robust than the Toyota locking diff?
Arb is better than toyota
Hotdog Man but if you’re buying a new truck then you get the warranty if something does wrong with the locker. Plus realistically, how many people would actually do the installation themselves? I wouldn’t. I’m not brave enough.
@@alecbryantalledo ARB lockers aren't that great and have known problems with newer designs...mostly blowing seals. Factory lockers are pretty damn reliable, don't require onboard air and lines that leak
I have an 03 TJ Rubicon with factory air lockers that have 8psi to hold them in place. I was told that the ARB is 70psi. If rock crawling was my thing I see an advantage but for FS roads I travel the factory ones work great. 07 and up have electric lockers.
Hillbillyjeeper WV they came with air lockers and not just electric mechanical lockers??
How did you get the old bearings off??
Subbed thanks for sharing.
Quality cynical view on doing installs. Just the way I like it.
A style of installation I can relate to. Take my sub.
Great job. I definitely won't be able to fo this.
If you don't use thread locker on the ring gear bolt, they (3 of them) could possibly back out and slowly shave the heads off. I'm just guessing, but it was a pretty good reason to get a new rear end...
I had an ARB air locker installed on my 1986 1/2 Nissan Pickup. The only problem I had with it is that it wanted to pump differential fluid from the differential up through the air line.
Lil piece of rubber tube from the bleeder to an empty water bottle is a nice way to bleed brakes without getting your garage messy :)
I did the same mistake drilling the wrong size at the housing... shouldve found your video earlier..
I really hope you see this Matt. I always say I'm a carpenter not a wizard. Well now I can be a wizard for you. You can gravity bleed brakes. Jack up all 4 corners, take off tires, drain pans under each wheel (should do all 4 at same time closing off lines in standard order). 1 man job. Takes about 30-40 minutes which is perfect to eat a sandwich and watch one of your vids!
Legend! Excellent clip
Your 5th gen didn’t come with a rear factory locker?
Not on the Limited. Only came on the trail edition for my year.
@@SuperfastMatt thank you - that makes sense now
nice video.. atrac is great till you are out in the sand like that. More so when the sand gets real soft
to bleed brakes just make a little catcher by putting a hole in a jar lid and feeding a hose through it that will fit the bleeder nipple
I may look like a wizard with my beard and all but I actually have a pressure bleeder with a Toyota specific master cylinder cap. Easy peasy.
As soon as this man started drilling holes a commercial for Toyota-certified mechanics came on. I think that is a sign...?
Based on experience, no, you shouldn't use Philips bits on Pozidriv heads, and vice versa. It's probably your sense of humor shining through but I feel that if you're advanced enough to tackle this type of installation you should have a #3 Pozidriv bit in your toolbox. :)
What was wrong with using the rusty yellow hydraulic press sitting outside? Oh, I think I may have answered my own question.
Superfastmatt called me wizzard
You can hit bearings on with a hammer and socket that’s the perfect size so you don’t destroy the bearing
Your only real screw up, and it’s a big one, is you failed to use the term “third member.” Major oversight.