TALLY HO CAPSTAN PART2
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- Опубликовано: 5 окт 2024
- This my friends is the first attempt to make the mold for the Tally Ho capstan. I get half way into this only to realize this is more than Josie, Dollar and I can handle. As with any mold we make for the first time, things don't always go as planned and like this capstan, the plan is made and changed every minute as we experiment to see what works best.
I want to thank Eddie and Sam for dropping what they were doing to help finish this first attempt, especially with very late notice.
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I've watched the Pakistani foundry clips on the tubes, you need to compact that flask with your bare feet while wearing a nightshirt. It'll come out perfect every time.
They are amazing what they turn out from pots and pans to huge objects with minimal tools, a very cleaver people
What moon said
If it was easy, they wouldn't need an expert. Trust the process. Excellent video, looking forward to the next round. Good luck!
Trust the process. Absolutely.
Yep, this calls for the right sort of person, which you are! It won’t go easy, but it will go!
is it supposed to be doing that way? it was a cast item widely used in steam engine ship. mass production is the key in those days. is it possible that this part was made in a sand pit method instead of using mode? just like those old singer sewing machine frames?
Appreciate you also shown the down part of mold making, this give an honest view of the difficulties involved.
Love what're doing, thanks for recording it.
I am so impressed with the determination and patience required to execute exceptional skills.
All those that pour metals face these issues. We just keep at it until successful.
When the capstan was being dismantled, it was this component that put up the biggest fight. Causing head aches seems to be part of it's character so this new one is on course to be just like the original.
Ive been following this channel, and the tally ho project separately for years. Kind of cool to see these two communities cross paths. This looks like an amazingly difficult project. I have no idea how they made the original part over 100 years ago... its insane to think about.
Actually, 100 years ago they were probably tooled to mold up a few hundred of these. With the proper setup, research and trials, they probably were pumping these out efficiently after all the hard work was done
The process is as
it was in the 1600's and won't likely change for another thousand years. I pour silver on an far smaller scale from 1.5 to 10 ounces and the process remains the same. This fella is a joy to watch doing what he loves to do best, LOL.
A hundred years ago, there were remarkably skilled foundry men. Many, many everyday objects that you take for granted were cast in foundries. Every single home had multiple objects that were cast. Most people these days assume that we are always better at doing tasks like this. It is not always the case. Granted, the materials might well be more refined. The lifting and grunting input might well be less, but even a hundred years ago, the process of casting was thousands of years old. It was practised by virtually all civilisations. People were good at it. Very good at it. The first part of my apprenticeship when I left school at 16 was working in a foundry so I'm not just some keyboard, clueless idiot blabbing on about something about which I know nothing of. Just take a look at any of the old film of machine tool factories, armament factories and the like to see the immense skill that people had back then. They cast bridge sections that are still fully functional centuries later. They made locomotive parts that still are in use. Old ain't bad or quaint. Just hard graft.
Making a one-off like this from a damaged, hundred year old original, is orders of magnitude more difficult than producing 1 of 1000 you were going to do that year. Y'all are doing great work.@@windyhillfoundry5940
How they made those casting a century ago is due to several factors. At the time of Tally Ho, the world was in the middle of the Industrial Revolution. And there were thousands of foundries with experts in cast iron. At that time, it was common to be casting machine parts hundreds of times larger than this capstan on a daily basis.
VERY impressed ! Was holding my 78 summers old breath right thru the building process, Watching from N32W64 Bermuda .
I have been in some specialty one-off foundries and these struggles are real. Trying to save the history and keep old machines alive and kicking is undervalued work. I can truly appreciate the skill, expertise and patience that you have exhibited and have no doubts you will prevail. So glad to have found your content.
Thank you for getting out your videos. I enjoy watching the progress and failures
Nerve wracking watching this work! So humbling. Thanks for the work!
I admire your tenacity. It looks like one of those things where many complicated things have to go perfect and any one going sideways messes the whole thing up. I know the finished product will be worth all your hard work. Thanks for the video.
For one-off casting I like the Lost-Foam method. I get good results, and you don't have to worry about draft angles and cope and drag issues.
I thought of that every time the sand dropped and he had to do it over. However, I imagine that making complex patterns from foam can be tough.
👍👌👏 Exactly what I thought instantly too. A foam piece could have been easily produced with a CNC machine or a 3D printer. Even the wood piece isn't necessary nowadays. The original parts are scanned, modified if necessary and then printed with a 3D printer. But I guess that the wise beyond his age Leo Sampson Goolden simply wanted to show how it was done for hundreds or even thousands of years.
Best regards, luck and health in particular.
I admire anyone's patience to do this type of work.
From the building of the pattern to investment of the pattern, this is one high risk process! As a lost wax casting technician my hat is off to you guys, I hope the next attempt goes well.
I appreciate just what a difficult job this is your doing 🤷🏻, My wife’s grandfather was a pattern maker for first the American Locomotive Company in Schenectady NY where he graduated from his apprentice school. After he worked there for many years he went to work for the General Electric Company as a senior pattern maker and retired from there after many years. A week after he retired he sold all his tools to a young pattern maker (2 full wooden chests for 200$) I hunted the guy down years later when told the pattern maker had come down with MS sadly. I purchased all the tools for a considerable amount more than the 200$ but was ecstatic plus they were still all engraved with his name. I thought it was so sad no one in the immediate family son especially had no interest in the tools by which had made the living for them all. Same today even with his grandchildren and great grandchildren. Seems so wrong to see them go to any one other than family someday.
As an aging craftsman I am seeing our skills being forgotten as today's youth want a keyboard to work with.
@@TomokosEnterprize I've worked many food service jobs in the past over 2 decades, and there's a lot of craftsmanship and artistry that *can* go into food, even the same ingredients in your local pizza place or fast casual restaurant can be turned into great tasting food when properly prepared. Unfortunately blue collar work, in restaurants, railroads, factories, and farms, isn't seen as worthy of proper education, training, and pay. The problem has never been automation, it's been devaluation of labor and use of debt to trap the middle class and now entire nations in the "Global South." Our 50 nation confederacy lacks any national focus on labor, work skills, or training; of both robots & humans.
I AGREE@@Nphen I live in the middle of poor and rich. My income just covers my costs. I am really fortunate that my mortgage is paid and my 3 small pensions cover my costs of daily living. Then there is the tax man that continues to raise a new or old tax just a bit more whenever they want. The income remains the same while costs do not. I am not sure how much longer I can stay a penny ahead.
People don't appreciate how heavy rammed up molding sand is - much heavier than it looks, and those flasks looked heavy. Even a 12x12 cope and drag weighs closer to 100# than 50... And this is a challenging 3 piece mold as well. No wonder it got the second most bleeps I've ever heard on this channel! Looks to me like the snatch block is causing the flask to lift suddenly and slightly crooked, despite your best efforts. Tricky one. Looking forward to seeing what you come up with!
i mean if you have a bunch of tiny rocks and you get most of the air out in between you end up with a big rock again
That’s why you need a bridge crane for this kind of thing.
I have poured a few simple castings in aluminum. The flask i used was 18x12 and i used green sand. It was way the hell heaver than i imagined it would be!
Man, you're scraping the bottom of the barrel for help, ain't ya? 😂
I kid, Eddy has been my brother for well over 20 years. I told him I was going to heckle him in the comments.
Thanks Jeff, I actually edited out 75% of the bleeps to give you an idea🤔
It’s been really interesting watching how you tackle this problem. Man, it’s complex and hard work. Thanks for sharing. 🇨🇦 Tally Ho is in good hands.
When I was in High School shop class I had an opportunity to some simple foundry work, nothing like what you're doing. I know how hard it is to do. It teaches you patience.
I had absolutely no idea how delicate and tough this process would be…nor how much detailed knowledge and skill. Fascinating. Thank you so much for sharing. Go,go Windy Hill Foundry.
I was holding my breath on each attempt. I have every confidence you will get this thing done. Best of luck and thanks to those that helped.
You know how to make riveting videos! Working at the upper limits of your shop is always a challenge but ingenuity, patience and experience will pull you through and most of us will not mind how many videos it takes (so long as you stay sane)!
What a lot of experts here.. telling a foundry expert how to do his daily job. Probably know as much about the process as myself, after having watched some amateurs making castings that weigh maybe 5 pounds. I know nothing about this trade. But the keyboard heroes do...
I came here after I learned the capstan went to Keith Rucker, then I saw you were going to do the casting and joined. I'm still here, I'm still with Keith's channel. And though I have nothing with boats, machining or foundries, all three have captivated me. I'll stay. I wish you lots of success. Hug the dogs. Greetings from the Netherlands.
Edit: I forgot Clarke the Pattern Guy. Still following him as well.
I once tried to cast a part that looked like a dog dish and the sand kept breaking off just like yours. A guy told me to ram the mold the opposite way so the large hunk of sand filling the dish was now sitting up instead of hanging and it worked well. First I rammed up a flat layer of sand and then filled the pattern and scraped it off flat. Then flipped the pattern over while full of sand and set it on the flat layer of sand. Then I rapped the pattern and removed it then applied more parting just and set the pattern back on. THen I put on the other half of the mold and rammed it up. When i seperated it, the pattern stayed in the top half of the mold and then I rapped it and removed it.
The old chain hoists give you surgical precision lifting and lowering! Fred R. Coffing got it right way back in 1930s.
I understand the "differential chain hoists" have been all out outlawed. They sometimes dropped the load.
I really like pneumatic chain hoists because you can vary their speed and still have a hand free to control the load.
@@GilmerJohnSomeones pulling your leg.
This is a superb and engaging way to help us see pattern making.
The action while words are spoken keeps me glued.
Now I know what my Croatian friend’s father did for a living.
I know you dont want the weight but I think you need steel or cast iron flask and it needs a trunnion mounted on the center section and you need a spreader with hooks to lift it by the trunnions so you can roll it over. You would need a better crane to lift it though. The wood is going to flex too much being that thin and will always cause the sand to fall apart. The only way I see the wood working is if you use chemical set sand. If you used that, you would be done already. We used to make some flasks at work the were cast steel and they had trunnions and were about the size of a casket. They were for casting parts for railroad cars.
As I said, we have bigger metal flask but for this and other jobs that require this much sand we prefer to focus on weight and design for rigidity of the mold which can always incorporate wood which is always cheaper by the way
I'm guessing the videos are running behind and you have this figured out by now. A trick I use on deep parts, I start the initial separation with wedges ( shim shingles ) between the flasks. It gives good control you can slowly work one through at each corner, once you have it separated a 1/4 inch or so much easier to lift off.
i used to use a similar technique to seperate a cylinder head from a barrel. drive box knife blades into the edge of the gasket, evenly all round. Use about ten blades.
What I know about casting one could put in a thimble with room left over. It seems to me that the low temperatures are preventing the sand from adhering to itself, so every time you do a pull, the sand just separates. It seems to me the biggest obstacle is the below freezing temperature.
You are most likely correct. We normally don't run into issues like this unless the finish of the side profiles are too rough to slide out of the sand
After all these years you can still learn something. Enjoying your channel.
It might make you feel better if you ask Leo how things went the first time he tried to pour the keel.
lol, that disaster was only topped by the Acorn to Arabella fiasco :)
@@joshua43214 what do you mean? Acorn to arabella pour went pretty smoothly
There's a foundry where I live that's up for sale. It's at least a hundred years old and 6 acres in total. I hope they find a buyer for it. America needs to hang onto these skills.
I totally agree. It heart breaking to see our industrial heritage snuffed out.
Kudos to the original craftsmen over a hundred years ago who couldn’t benefit from science of the past century but still got the job done - it’s a pity they didn’t upload a video to RUclips.
Ive also seen illustrations of using turnbuckles for lifting mold sections or even drawing large patterns.
Like a three or four point lifting chain with the turnbuckles in place of chains connected to a main ring.
That would allow for fine adjustment.
I also saw an illustration in "Metalcasting" by C. W. Ammen of a flask with screws mounted to the sides of the flask.
They were used to jack the mold apart for a very slow but controlled draw .
Yeah, I was just thinking something like an A-frame would be just perfect for this. Easy to move around and able to put in a simple lifting rig to give you fine control.
Great patience and determination, and yet so few censures. With your knowledge and experience, I have no doubt you will succeed with this project. Good luck and stay safe.
There is nothing like the satisfaction of making parts out of molten metal. The finished part will be around long after we’re gone. Success is coming my brothers from a different mother, and father.
Broke my heart to see the sand stuck in the mold. Thanks for sharing the video I know it's a lot more work to do that.
Bro on these big molds you really should be using sodium silicate AKA water glass it would make your life so much easier
You never had to pull a deep relief pattern out of sodium silicate before have you
No I have chipping out with a chisel and hammer is a lot easier than frustrating the hell are yourself trying to get a pattern to work@@windyhillfoundry5940
@@windyhillfoundry5940 we have large brake wheels cast for overhead cranes. Some are 30" in dia and they must be 12" deep where the sand fits down inside them. The draft is no more than 3 degrees I would guess. They always use some kind of chemical set sand. I'm sure they use a crane to pull the pattern because it has a threaded hole in the center for an eye bolt. They coat the pattern with some kind of silver paint. It kind of reminds you of graphite and it gets all over you if you lift one of the patterns up.
Many of those machine parts were made by slicing the mold vertically, making only two part molds. Of course there is no easy way to make a complex casting, but I have found that I can cheat in really difficult cases by using high strength silver brazing to join parts of a multiple casting where there are large areas of contact and castings must not be overheated. High strength (not silver solder used in plumbing) silver brazing is often stronger than the parent metal, when used with clamps and overall heat, makes a joint only microscopically larger than the original if repairing a broken casting. I used it in a heated jig to connect large width bandsaw blades that had to flex around a large pulley top and bottom, with enough tension to hold the blade absolutely vertical when under full load. Several tons.
Hi Eddie, I’m a lineman and did some work for Entergy for some storm trouble years ago.. and also former LEO.
Loved the guest help! I am in CA or I would love to drive over and help! Just joined your patreon!
Thank you and anytime you are in Mississippi you are welcome here👍
By posting this failure shows that you have a lot of integrity, honesty and self confidence. A lot of guys will only post the successes. I’m looking forward to the next chapter.
complex pattern setup. awesome to see the help arrive for you.
Love to see how mold are made! Such an important skill that needs to be passed onto new generations. Eager to see how you learn from this failed attempt. Maybe grease the pins so they don't get stuck? I'm sure you'll try to repack to not have to be flipped as well. So many aspects to consider.
Good grief, that’s a monster of a mould to pull. No wonder it fought you all the way Clark. We know you’ll get there.
Amazing. Hard work. Helpful neighbors. Thanks for keeping us in the loop. I know zero about this kind of work, but wonder if you had 3 lifting trunnions rather than 2 if that would help.
It would have, at this time and with only one mold to make, I felt Two would have been sufficient. As we discovered later it would not have made a difference as we completely change the operation
The theory about temperature makes sense to me- oil gets much, much more viscous in cold temperatures, and it could well be that it's preventing the sand from bonding to itself.
What about bringing a propane heater to the area when you're ramming?
I've said it before but...Clark, be careful. There's a shortage of good foundrymen in this world. It'd be a pity to damage you. 😁
How frustrating it must be for you that this mould isn't playing ball. However. I am sure you will find a way to make it work. Thank you for showing us mere mortals just how difficult it is to achieve this mould. Patient's will prevail. Thanks again for the video.
As I watched Dave build this pattern, I was wondering how it was going to work.
I'm still wondering, but I'm no foundryman.
Keep at it. You've done it before, you can do it again!
Bummer Clarke. I was sure you were going to get a good mould by the end of this video. Never mind. It's always a learning experience.
Regards, Preso
I remember using a resin in the sand and using a core.😊 during my apprenticeship. Many years ago.😊
Thanks for sharing the failures as well. Very educational. I'll be watching even if this turns out to be a ten-part video!
Ahh brings back memories, my high school had a foundry next to the wood and machine shop. I must have done dozens of patterns for a pheasant for my dad for Father's day. I feel your pain. But finally got a good mode and he still has that bird. Loved that class.
Back in the day when you could actually learn something useful in school.
Even if you don't need them to lift the total mass, more pulleys would give you much more control when lifting so you could go very slowly. Your current set up seems a little jerky between things suddenly releasing and the stretch of the rope. Not saying it's your only issue, but it may help that one variable.
I worked in foundry for years and overall you have the right idea . When ramming up sand you need support cross bars and holding hooks to support removal of each section of the mould. Graphite powder is a great release to brush on pattern and joints. Also venting of moulds is important to prevent blow holes in casting. Hope all goes well. Bear in mind to use sprigs in thick sections of casting to equalise cooling and prevent cracking of casting.
This is an amazing process to watch, who knew it was so involved and difficult to pull off.
Nice to see warts and all. As craftsmen we often get fooled into an illusion of perfection watching flawless edits. Accidents, mishaps, and mistakes happen constantly in the real world. Being and expert and being good at your job means being able to consume these mishaps and mistakes and being able to stop when it’s time to stop, recoup, replan, recalculate, and make a better attempt the second time. Rome wasn’t built in a day. I digress, I’m not telling this to one who doesn’t already know this though. Just refreshing to see someone who isn’t afraid to leave in their oops instead of skipping this episode entirely and giving us the successful pour edit.
I love this process. My castings are asliver compared to this beauty. The mold/core you have made takes the same care and attention my little 4 to 10 ozt pieces take are exactly the same as the ones my pours take but being that big leaves them to larger possibilities of larger voids etc. They are the troubles they make for me eh! Occasionally I will have a look/see person visiting whiIe I am working on the Petrobond and they ask if I have to hammer the sand that hard and my reply is simple, , , YUP ! One thing I have noticed is by running a saw cut along the horizontal part of the flask liner side they have never had a sand slip in from the outer walls. You have a bunch more experience than I do but it has sure worked well for my sorry old butt eh. As I teach others on the best way to pour Silver or Gold, Brass or Copper the reason for their pours have soooo many voids are they have used far too much parting powder. With this pour a soft hired broom is needed to apply just the right amount of baby powder for your pieces.I have always put in what those that pour more than myself a LOT of vents/risers in each flask. So far that thinking has never let me down. At the end I feel a bit for you and your help but knowing I am not the only one that has the process just not work out and have to start over. It will be great to see the next video.
Your tenacity is worth bottling.
I guess it all par of the course for your trade. But it still leaves a layman like me in awe.
This just shows how difficult this type craft is. But then again, if it was easy, anyone could do it. Great video!
I used to do a bit of foundry work in Junior and Senior High. Mostly aluminum and some brass, never anything that big or complex. I was feeling for you every time that sand let go. I can’t wait to see how you’re going to work this out. You’re over my head already.
Good luck.
Dave
Wondering if you ever use a soft brush for the mica/talc/powder in those recessed areas? I recall one of the old guys in the foundry i grew up by doing that when they cast big flywheels for the hub area.
This was early 1970s and those foundry guys were very good about not hollering at us kids watching them work by the roll up doors and telling us what/why they were doing things.
I'm glad that you know when to quit for the night. My late wife majored in jewelry and on night around 11, tried 1 solder joint to many when she was too tired to think through the process and ever after the family phrase was "Stop before you melt the locket"
I would try to put a whole bunch of vertical rods (ribbed or capital I-shaped) in the core to keep it together. Alternatievely a cilindrical shaped wire mesh
Someone here mentioned a proper sized squirrel cage fan. Believe that, along with warmer temps, could do the trick.
For this application you should mold the inside seprate but you'll need a binder for it to hold and the drag molded as a flat to set the pattern on as it's reassembled. In other cases an old squirrel cage fan ring of verying sizes can be used as an anchor for protruding parts.
The beauty with green sand is its kind to patterns and you can just knock it out and start fresh with plan B.
This looks incredibly difficult. Thanks for sharing the challenge
I suspect the cold weather has indeed affected the performance of the sand. Cold air simply doesn't hold much moisture, if that makes a difference.
I have a hobby foundry. I usually make 2-5 aluminum castings a year. I feel your grief. Never seen one this complicated. You must have the patience of Jobe.
You’ve got the patience of a saint, Clark. I was holding my breath a couple of times.
Fantastic 👏👏👏 - I know just enough about casting to appreciate just how difficult a job you’ve taken on there guys, keep at it. (DT won’t make ‘America Great Again’, it’s craftsmen like you.)
When I first saw the pattern being made, I immediately wondered about using a lost wax or lost styrofoam process. No doubt there are many tips and tricks used by the old masters that are lost on us.
Super to watch it's great to see the effort that goes into such work and the skill to get it right good job and great video 👍
That is a difficult pattern, indeed. Good luck with you continuing efforts.
Difficult things are ………difficult - well done guys.
The black art of sand casting. Sometimes very frustrating indeed.
You'll git it!!! I have faith in you!!!👍👍👍👍
We will👍. I had request to include our difficulty so I'm not holding back 😁
40 years ago I worked for a company called Foundry and Flask that is no longer in business. One of the things we built into some of the small cope and drags where tapered alignment pins. It made the assembly and disassembly easier in casting. One of the problems was you had to fit the pins and holes to one another at the same time. It made the machining a little tedious.
Such impressive dogged spirit ! go you guys!
You'll get it.
Kindest regards and best wishes from Scotland.
Very complicated looking. Y’all sure do work hard and do nice work.
You’ll get it! I know ya will bud. Thanks to Eddy & Sam & all. 🎉🎉🎉🎉
Fascinating. Respect for the hard and excellent work. 🎉🎉🎉!
I was wondering if petrobond might be a better solution. Anyway, it's an excellent video. Sometimes problems arise, but it's all part of the process. Can't wait to see this poured and installed on the deck of TallyHo. I can't wait for your next attempt.
Numb to disappointment Haha That reminds me when I used to have childhood friends that would never show up to appointments. After so many times there's no disappointment
What about using the air tamper? Since it looks like you need concrete.
These are fine until it's time to de-mold. Takes forever to get the sand reusable
I appreciate the effort involved with these vids - thanks for the effort.
This seems a very hard way to go about this job. Modern materials are available to make this type of job a breeze and not expensive. Your the expert I’m a arm chair observer. Good luck
my one suggestion would be that the interior/ bottom section is the most important, woth the most detail and features, the exterior and top portion can be more rough and then machined after the fact.
I used to deliver to a foundry making every manhole cover and service surround and lid in the country. Roughly decsribed. Buddy you just are not equipt to handle those moulds. They had an upside down T for lifting heavy moulds with an electric gantry. They lift the whole deal to make it reset under the hoist , set it down when it ceased to swing and the unbolt the boxes. Then lift it directly up gentle and smooth. Plus the sides of your plug is not getting white powder on it. Good luck.
Well it aint your first Rodeo, you will get there in the end. I find it amazing the people with the most talent always get bad tempered when things dont go right.
I worked in a foundry making manholes and lids in 1969, i left that job and went to work in an ice plant. True story. I don't miss eithrr job.
How about to mount 3 'nuts' and matching tabs on the outside of the flasks and then use 3 screws like spindles to lift / separate the flasks in a parallel manner like a puller? Simultaneously turn the screws would be the best, but if no joint gear is made or helpers are available, turning the screws one after the other by a tad may work... though tedious. This would for sure prevent the binding of the pins. Same for putting all back together aligned. I can see that this is a very complex pattern / mould. The inside may also be a bit too cylindric/not enough conical to part from the sand (I don't know though of the spacial requirements. Leaving a bit more material and then machine it cylindric where it needs to be and if possible could be an alternative.) --- Btw, I see the wooden AND custom flask a very ingenious approach...
This would work for sure and if we were making a dozen of these, we would take more precautions to make sure each mold released with precision but for one casting, you have to split the difference in how much time you want to spend on preparation and how much time you want to spend on the pour and cleanup
@@windyhillfoundry5940 Thanks for responding. That's true. It is walking a fine balance... especially when it is just one of a kind. Sometimes - knowing the outcome - a little more effort in the beginning saves a lot of head ache later... (preaching to myself as the choir of one). I watched 'un/fortunately' the successful take/post afterwards. Anyway, congratulations and thank you for taking on this challenge. I'm following the Tally Ho for restoration for years and it is amazing how much skills and craftsmanship are required to get something done that 100 years ago may have been much more every day life. I also watched the trolley power pickup related post and enjoyed very much the change of course you took when the core broke. --- I know a bit about such things since my dad worked ages ago in a foundry that produced radiators for house heating. The complex casting process with post machining was gradually replaced under his mastery. The new radiators were produced from metal sheets that were stamped/folded into shape for halves - front and back - of a radiator and then seam welded. Fittings were easily premade and welded in as well, much easier than post machining... I wish you and Josie and $ and Windy Hill Foundry a Good 2024 with just successes on the 1st run! (from an ever-optimist).
You all do nice work! Thanks for the video! 🙏
This may not be the largest mold you have cast, but it is the largest I have seen you do.
Thank you for another great video. Stay safe out there. Cheers
It's the courage that impresses me.
It looks like the sand needs more of bonding in the mix, it seems as if it is too green to pull apart.
As a resident of the State of Georgia I can attest that chewing on alligator tail is a legitimate thing for a dog to be doing on a Saturday afternoon
Kripes, if first you don't succeed try try again, and again, and again... what a fight. Fascinating video be interesting to see how you pull this off, not a trivial problem.
Hello, I would suggest to modify the pattern that it was two-pieces. (Inner piece and outer piece connected very loose). That would help splitting the mold. After mold is splitted patterns should be possible to remove easier. Cheers and good luck