@spydercoXT True, that's what I usually tell others as well. However, this complicated the assembly process substantially and I've had good luck so far. I've actually had bladeplay disappear when the blade was mated with a 'new' locking bar.
@Bustlead9 Not really, you could try adjusting the screw closest to the pivot pin, but that could also affect the opening action. If the gap is less than a mm, I usually don't mind it and leave it as is. If the gap is bigger than that, and you're not happy with it, you could try contacting the vendor or Spyderco W&R
best idea i have seen!i tried putting the lock bar in last,but its vary hard to do,tried you zip-tie and no problem on 1st try attempt and the blade just slipped right in,bravo and thank you so much..
You're right, they are adjusted to each other. Now I got a racing green with vg10 plain edge very cool, but can't resist a "spine hit test". Never more unless I break the scales or somethig similar
@xXBallistic82Xx That would indeed be best, but it's also a pain. It would require complete disassembly and a risk of damaging the FRN handle scales from the inside. There is a small plastic 'nipple' on the inside of each handle scale, if you put the spring tension on one half-assembled scale, you can destroy this nipple and ruin the fit of the knife. Whatever you do, assemble the handle completely first before you add the blade and subsequent tension on the spring.
@xXBallistic82Xx Also, Spyderco quality tolerances have proved no problem on the handful of bladeswaps I did on Delicas, using this method. The lockup has proven to be fine each time I did it. YMMV though.
@oTHEBLESSEDHELLRIDEo True, but they stated many times that taking apart your folder will void your warrantee. I think the kits are more a nod to the afi's than a formal encouragement for everyone to take apart their folders. The knives do not come with instructions on how to take it apart and put it back together again.
@allmotor91 Thanks for wartching, but I'm not going to do that. My knives would never need that kind of cleaning, just a rinse/wash/dry in and out works fine for my uses. More importantly, there is one weak part that shows that the D4 was never intended to be completely taken apart by end line users. The spacer part has two small FRN nubs that during the re-assembly will have to carry all the springload. This force can easily break these nubs.
I don't know as I don't have a meadowlark, but I'd expect it not to work or that it could lead to lock-up issues after prolonged use. They're different knives made by different factories (china vs japan)
Thanks so much for this video. Just finished swapping out the blades of my 2 delicas. I now have a ffg Delica w/ foliage green frn handles and a brown delica w/ saber ground partially serrated bblade.
@oTHEBLESSEDHELLRIDEo Furthermore, the most common way for a newbie to re-assemble a Delica would be a 'sandwich-method'. Assemble the knife by installing all the parts layered on top of one anothe (handle slab + liner + pins + washer + spacer + spring+ blade+washer + liner + handle slab + screws + clip). If you do it like this, you will damage those tiny nubs on the spacer unit and ruin the spacer. A Military is more foolproof for taking apart and putting it back together again.
AFAIK you can't take a riveted Delica apart. At least not without replacing the rivets, or destroying them in the process. Getting a D4 would be a cheaper and faster solution I think. Not that the D3 'needs' taking apart, my D3 users have withstood all sorts of use and cleaning.
Nice trick with the zip-tie. I never thought of that - always struggled with the lock-bar.
Did the same thing with my 2 enduras and now I have an endura wave on a foliage green handle. looks sweet!
Great video. I may have to do some surgery myself. Thanks
@spydercoXT True, that's what I usually tell others as well. However, this complicated the assembly process substantially and I've had good luck so far. I've actually had bladeplay disappear when the blade was mated with a 'new' locking bar.
that zip-tie is pure genius.
lockback knives are a pain to reassemble.
thanks for the tips!
@Bustlead9 Not really, you could try adjusting the screw closest to the pivot pin, but that could also affect the opening action. If the gap is less than a mm, I usually don't mind it and leave it as is. If the gap is bigger than that, and you're not happy with it, you could try contacting the vendor or Spyderco W&R
best idea i have seen!i tried putting the lock bar in last,but its vary hard to do,tried you zip-tie and no problem on 1st try attempt and the blade just slipped right in,bravo and thank you so much..
You're right, they are adjusted to each other. Now I got a racing green with vg10 plain edge very cool, but can't resist a "spine hit test". Never more unless I break the scales or somethig similar
@xXBallistic82Xx That would indeed be best, but it's also a pain. It would require complete disassembly and a risk of damaging the FRN handle scales from the inside. There is a small plastic 'nipple' on the inside of each handle scale, if you put the spring tension on one half-assembled scale, you can destroy this nipple and ruin the fit of the knife. Whatever you do, assemble the handle completely first before you add the blade and subsequent tension on the spring.
@xXBallistic82Xx Also, Spyderco quality tolerances have proved no problem on the handful of bladeswaps I did on Delicas, using this method. The lockup has proven to be fine each time I did it. YMMV though.
@oTHEBLESSEDHELLRIDEo True, but they stated many times that taking apart your folder will void your warrantee. I think the kits are more a nod to the afi's than a formal encouragement for everyone to take apart their folders. The knives do not come with instructions on how to take it apart and put it back together again.
Thanks the info on that. Can you do a compleat take down and cleaning vid sometime.
@tylenator552 I had two bronze washers, but it's not a current D4.
@glock2026 I figured as much, but thanks for testing it out.
@allmotor91 Thanks for wartching, but I'm not going to do that. My knives would never need that kind of cleaning, just a rinse/wash/dry in and out works fine for my uses. More importantly, there is one weak part that shows that the D4 was never intended to be completely taken apart by end line users. The spacer part has two small FRN nubs that during the re-assembly will have to carry all the springload. This force can easily break these nubs.
@p8ntballer8491 you're welcome. Online you'll find quite a few methods, this one works very well for me.
I don't know as I don't have a meadowlark, but I'd expect it not to work or that it could lead to lock-up issues after prolonged use. They're different knives made by different factories (china vs japan)
This also worked on my endura . Just an update i wanted a blue serrated blade not ffg.
If you are going to swap blades you should also swap the lock bar to avoid blade play and other problems.
the knife would need an adjustable pivot for my method to work, the ss Delica has pinned construction.
Thanks so much for this video. Just finished swapping out the blades of my 2 delicas. I now have a ffg Delica w/ foliage green frn handles and a brown delica w/ saber ground partially serrated bblade.
@oTHEBLESSEDHELLRIDEo Furthermore, the most common way for a newbie to re-assemble a Delica would be a 'sandwich-method'. Assemble the knife by installing all the parts layered on top of one anothe (handle slab + liner + pins + washer + spacer + spring+ blade+washer + liner + handle slab + screws + clip). If you do it like this, you will damage those tiny nubs on the spacer unit and ruin the spacer. A Military is more foolproof for taking apart and putting it back together again.
AFAIK you can't take a riveted Delica apart. At least not without replacing the rivets, or destroying them in the process. Getting a D4 would be a cheaper and faster solution I think. Not that the D3 'needs' taking apart, my D3 users have withstood all sorts of use and cleaning.
My Delica didn't have loctite on the pivot screw. Is that the norm?
canonhawaii sorry, but I wouldn't know these days. It's been years since I took apart a delica.
Shouldn't you swap the lockbar too, I thought the each knives blade and lockbar are fitted to each other.
Is there a way to do a blade swap to a stainless steel Delixa 4? I'd like to switch it to the Emerson wave blade.
I have a zdp stretch that has a gap between the lock bar and the liner on the right side, Do you have any insight on how to fix it?
@Spydercollector Why do they sell the light weight kits for these knives then?
hello ! do you know if the same thing is possible between a delica and a meadowlark? Are the blades similar in your opinion? thanks
how many bronze washers did you have? i have 3
I've wanted to switch my grey FFG blade with my combo, rather than buy a FFG black handle.