Sterling by Music Man Ray24CA wired in Parallel! Why isn't this stock?- LowEndLobster Fresh Look
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- Опубликовано: 9 дек 2020
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Hey everyone! Today we're taking another look at my Sterling by Music Man Stingray Ray24CA "Classic". I had mentioned in the full review that the stock configuration of the pickup in this bass was wired in series, but the traditional Music Man Stingray configuration is parallel. After the review was shot, I rewired the pickup in parallel. Here are the results!
This bass and all my other basses with rounds are strung with MJC Ironworks Nickel Plated Stainless Steel 45-105(130) unless otherwise noted. Check them out at www.mjcironworks.com
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You literally the only RUclips’er that replying every comments, I really appreciate it...great review and comparison btw! Sub’ed!
Thanks endy! I appreciate everyone taking the time to watch my vids :)
Thanks for getting the ray24 vids out! The parallel mode has that clear mid/hi. The series has a scooped sound, more low end. I prefer the parallel. I’m considering the John east 2 band for mine. Good work lobster 👍
Thanks Todd :)
Parallel is considerably more articulate to me; as expected, this articulation really showed up in the slap. I just bought one of these today, and plan to change to Parallel. Thanks for making this video! As many have stated, a switch would be awesome, as often that extra, lower, growler punch from the series is the sound I want .
Awesome information Lobster ! As a Jazz bass enthusiast, I bought a Ray4 as my first foray into Stingray land on sale at GC. After watching this I snagged a Ray24 pickup and installed parallel (with help from your mod videos). No more hot ceramic pickup preamp distortion and sounds great! $35 made a whole new bass. Worth way more that the $265 I have invested lol. Cheers 🍻
Suhweet! Congrats on your bass :)
I think the sound is very similar either way. As others have said, a series/parallel switch would be a great option. I already liked this bass, you have really got me thinking about buying one around New Years.
Thanks! I was thinking about doing the series/parallel switch mod here, but it would get in the way of the ribbon cable for the volume control on the JE preamp (silly design, those things are very fragile).
I agree with the folks that mentioned that series was too hot. A switch would definitely be helpful for the time that sort of tone is called for. Looking forward to seeing/hearing the bass after the preamp upgrade 🤘🤘 great video!
Thanks Taconeko!
As expected, series is a bit darker and thicker. I much prefer the tone of parallel wiring. The idea of both options via switch is nice too.
Great job Lobster!
Thanks Jonathan!
Man that thing is beautiful!
Thank you!
I think this video helped me figured out why I always liked EBMM Stingrays when I tried them, but couldn’t ever really vibe with the Ray4 models at the shop.
Thanks! Glad the video helped. I'm going to be doing a huge Ultimate SUB Modding Guide going over pickup and 3 band preamp combos (all drop in utilizing stacks, no jack routing needed) from all sorts of manufacturers. Stay tuned :)
I just finished doing this mod myself with a CTS DPDT Push-Pull pot to switch between series/parallel. In parallel, I feel like I get a more cleaner even sound. In series, the output is much hotter, with scooped mid frequencies. With the volume maxed out, parallel remains clean while series sounds overdriven especially when played aggressively. On the amp, at the same gain and volume settings, it’s significantly louder in series than in parallel.
They both sound good. It sounds like wiring in parallel really smoothed out the tone.
I'm still lacking a bass in my musical arsenal, but the Sterling Ray24 and the Ibanez Talman 500 are both on my list for consideration because of your videos.
Thanks Tony! Glad you're liking the videos and finding them helpful :)
@@LowEndLobster I found a used Ibanez TMB300 for a good price and bought it. I'm a longtime guitarist and this is my first bass. I'm running it through an old Fender Bassman 150 and it sounds great. I'll need to adjust the intonation at some point. The action is way high, so it was either messed with by someone who didn't know any better or it was never set up properly in the first place.
I never would have been aware of the TMB series if not for your video on the TMB500. But it was your review on the Ibanez SR300 that first brought me to your channel. I found your bluntly honest critique of the SR300 incredibly useful when every other review out there was basically like, "Sounds great for the price whether you're a beginner, intermediate, or pro! You won't be disappointed. Get one!"
I like the bass mod videos, too. Thanks for the quality content and telling it like it is, instead of saying what people want/expect to hear about a bass. Keep up the great work!
Hi Lobster, Parallel sounds much better to my ears. As stated before you won’t be disappointed with the John East preamp it’s killin! 👍🏾💯
Thanks Trevor! I'm enjoying it quite a bit :), I installed the preamp soon after shooting this vid and am enjoying it.
I like the Series bottom punch tone slightly better. Thank you for doing your side by side comparison.
You're welcome :)
damn I have the same bass and I knew there was something wrong like, it does not sound as cristal clear hi fi kinda sound as a vintage mm, just found why and very glad I can fix it without buying 100+ $ aguilar pickup, thank you so much buddy
I rewired my bottom of the line Ray4 to parallel this afternoon. I recorded a before and after in GarageBand and it's definitely quieter and cleaner sounding in parallel. It sounds different and the waveform looks different. Maybe it's the audio compression RUclips puts on videos, but my results were much more dramatic than yours.
I saw this bass on the wall at GC. It was already set up, which is rare for GC. Anyway, the neck is similar to a Lakland. Solid but I could really move on it. As for modding it, I like it the way it is. I already used it a band situation and it performed as expected. Now I love it. Its got its own sound (I could care less about an authentic MM sound) which is great.
Agree about the neck feeling similar to a Lakland
I like this wiring better than the wiring on my American stingray. It's very clean and not overly aggressive.
Thanks Bob!
Like them both. Series works fine for me. “Raw” stingray. No bells or whistles needed. Play it every week. Nothing but compliments.
Depends on playing style and music genre too
great tone
Thanks Tom!
All in all, in preferred the ‘Series’ tone. It’d be good to have a series/parallel switch though!!
yeah push pull like on old s1 fenders
Thanks Rev! I was considering doing that. JE is installed with the pickup in parallel currently.
"Just don't cross the streams. Never cross the streams!" -Egon
XD
"Boomer" joke hahaha - I love it :). I'm actually glad I was fortunate enough to get this culture rich movie background. Or to put it in other words, "Game over man, game over, for the new "mobile phone" generation, they definitely don't want to be called Junior but we older people know much better that if they wanna do something they just need to stop feeling entitled: it's do or do not - there is no try. So what happens is that they end up shedding tears in rain out of frustration and shouting about the two kinds of people that exist in this world: those with loaded batteries (in their cellphones) and those who they don't dig.
Have recently bought a Stingray short scale, which has a series / parallel / single coil switch - best of all worlds, particularly as it is totally passive. Let’s hope that Musicman / Sterling incorporate this in their 34” scale models.
Nice! I have a SBMM Stingray shorty coming that's mine plus a USA Stingray shorty being sent here from a good friend. The SBMM guts may find their way into another bass to see how it sounds ;).... That new BFR Stingray has the short scale passive electronics, but perhaps we can build something in a similar spirit without dropping $2500 hahaha
I’m looking forward to seeing & hearing what the transplant sound like!?
my luthier made on my cheap eko stimg ray copy a switch to go parallel or series..cant wait to pick it up !
Nice!
Just changed the wiring on mine, which is a 25ca. On this bass the parallel setup does make a difference. It's very slight but noticeable. The only thing I have to compare side by side is the Ray34 wired in parallel, and Ray35, which has the series/parallel switch. Both smoke this bass but they are different pre amps and pickups. That bite is there and with some additional EQ it's close.
Very nice! Thank you for sharing, Jim
Ahhh!!! I was looking for this video! Is there a posibility of a "how to" video? I want to do that to my SUB 5!
I honestly like that pickup that’s in it. Sounds great
Thanks! Yeah the stock pickup in these basses is much better than the Ray4 SUB one (though the preamp is the same). The pickup in these basses can make all the difference!
Both sound great..series is my pick. Would love to see a switch of some sort to have both options on tap.
Thanks Robert! I have a switch on a different SUB project (mint-o-ray), but one would be a tighter fit here since I popped in the JE preamp (don't want one of the switch lugs to nick the ribbon cable for the JE volume knob). It's definitely a worthwhile mod if you want that flexibility.
Great comparison, I have the same bass and I never realized that it was in series. I always thought the difference from my Ray34 was 100% down to the preamp and the magnet material...but I guess not!
Thanks! Happy modifying ;)
@@LowEndLobster I already picked up a Nordstrand 4.2 and will likely be going for their 2B-3A preamp shortly :)
@@srirachaseahawk Nice! My Nordy SUB has been done for a little while (was waiting on the rest of the stock SUBs to arrive), really good combo- the nordy pickup and preamp. The 3b3 was able to be dropped in with no mods as well :)
Man, that parallel slap tone! Series didn't sound bad tho, but more jazz bass-ey
Thanks Brandon!
Series sounds good. I don’t prefer the typical Stingray tone, so for me the series tone is better. Thanks for doing the comparison.
Wired in parallel. Can’t wait for East pre!
Thanks BP :)
Awesome video! Parallel is notably different! Do you think it would be possible to make a video showing us how to wire a SUB in parallel?
Thanks Roper! So with the SUB, it's a lot harder because you need to take apart the pickup. With the Ray24, there's a second lead and ground that are accessible and just soldered and taped together. Disconnect those and attach them to where the main lead and ground are attached. I believe it goes Red+black for hot and then green, white, shield for ground. Much easier on the 24. I did shoot a separate video showing how to take apart and install the EMG MMHZ and BQC preamp in a SUB though :). That'll come soon.
True, the parallel wiring is way way better, sounds snappier and more crispy. Has more color to it. I agree, why wouldn't they wire the basses like that?!
IMO to make this and the lower SUB line be less authentic vs. their higher end Stingray counterparts. Just a feeling, have 0 evidence to back that up.
@@LowEndLobster True. Never in a company's best interest to produce the "perfect" thing because other wise would they have to sell?
With my Ray4 I was having a lot of trouble with any kind of boost on the bass control causing the input to clip on my Rumble. Just too much output, even with the pickups screwed all the way down. Switching to parallel gave me full use of the preamp controls and no clipping!
Snappy? Crispy? Color?
Parallel sounds sweet. Parallel with a series option would be useful. Nice riffage.
Thanks Andy!
😜 smh “....you’re going to have to come with me Mr. Lobster, put down that screw driver and step away from the MM”
Just playing. Looking forward to the pre amp and series/parallel, push/pull installation video.
The world is a better place with you buddy.
Cheers
Thanks Tommy :)
I like it in series even more.
Seems like a natural for the mold smoothie mod, I've seen open box for considerably less than $400 shipped.
Just received the John East 3 ban preamp and will probably have it in by the end of the weekend, 🎉 I'll get back to ya..soon. man 🎉 is excided 😅
On my modified SUB with Duncan electronics, I have a push/push volume pot to select between series/parallel.
I use series 99% of the time. It has more girth and cuts through the mix better for me
Nice!
You got some skillz there 🦞 Lobster! Im working on a Fretless in the Garage at this very moment! Now; if I could just learn to play as good as you. Lol
Thanks Sean :D
Great video as always. Thanks!!! I just got the same model and for sure want the parallel option with a push/pull volume pot. While my tech is doing that for me do you recommend or think it would be worth it to get a better tone pot and shielding too? If so what kind do you recommend? Again, thank you for the great videos.
👍♥️👍
Heyo! I don't think this bass would benefit much from better pots or shielding. Noise and pot quality wasn't really much of an issue. Would be better off upgrading the preamp if you saw the need.
@@LowEndLobster Thanks, I appreciate ya, Mr. Lobster 👍👍 I will indeed be doing the Pre amp/pickup swap asap!
I like both, the idea of a switch is something worth playing with when I begin to mod mine. The preamp of what you speak sir, do you have a video illustrated that? I was thinking about switching to a Seymour Duncan pickup and preamp? As always great video and definitely keep them coming. Suggestion- Have you ever considered doing any vintage Peavey basses made in the USA?
Thanks Andrew! I have an upcoming epic series coming up called the Ultimate SUB Mod Guide 2020 which will be deep diving into 6x modded subs, each with a different brand's 3 band preamp and pickup. All configured for "drop in", meaning no jack routing. Seymour Duncan is on that list, keep an eye out for that! :). In regards to USA Peaveys, I'd love to check out a Cirrus and some other models at some point for my Guitarcheologist series (where I explore out of production but cool and/or significant instruments)
@@LowEndLobster can’t wait to see the in depth dive, really takes the guesswork out of modifications! Thank you for all you do and really enjoy the content.
Hi LowEndLobster, I enjoy your videos! I have a an American made SUB5 (my Bass wired in Series or Parallel? if it's wired in Series can I change it to Parallel like you did with the Ray24CA? I also have a Ray4(same question. Thanks!
I like it in parallel better. I think that a pull up switch on the volume know for both series and parallel would be best. Honestly, in parallel it sounds almost exactly like your real SR
Thanks Keith!
Is there a video showing the process of rewiring from series to parallel or is it so simple I need not ask? Lol. Thank you! Great videos!
Great question Kevin! So this was filmed before I started doing a lot of the mod process vids with the overhead camera angle and the entire mod process. I should definitely do one like that for this bass! Thank you!
@@LowEndLobster That would be awesome!
The parallel has more high end sizzle but series has more punch. I saw another video where the guy had a push/pull volume so you could have either. Might do that.
Good afternoon LowEndLobster, I'm planning on getting a Ray24CA(and wiring it in parallel lol). What strings would you recommend to get the sound you have in this video?
Hi thanks for your informative and fun videos! Do you think you’ve handled enough of SBMM’s that you could share your experience with how much they weigh? Is any of them comparable to the weight of the Stingray Specials?
Great question Valdi! My next vid coming out when I am done resting up will actually be comparing my SR Special 4H to my regular SR 4H and I will definitely include weight. My SUBs and Ray24 are in the same neighborhood as my 2017 USA EBMM Stingray 4h (9.4 lbs) whereas my SR Special is 8.2! The weight savings are noticeable when moving to the special, but the standard Ray and the SBMM Ray4-24 tend to sit around 9 lbs. My Ray34 that I had was 11 lbs, however I have a friend with one that's only 9.5- they really can vary quite a bit.
Thats a nitty gritty answer, Lobsterman! Thank you :) wouldn’t it be cool if there was a bass weight statistician? Ordering a bass not knowing the weight feels a bit like a russian roulette to me. In a live situation a small difference in weight can make a big difference. Kudos to Sweetwater for showing the weight on their site.
I have this bass same color. its great
It sounds duller in parallel to me. Seems like the serial is a little brighter and more articulate but then again I'm listening on computer speakers to a compressed & streamed video. Did you think it sounded better in parallel? Would have been nice to hear what you thought in the room. You didn't really say. I'm thinking they did the ceramic pickup and wired it series to brighten things up with the mahogany body vs the ash with Alnico pickup on a MM. Also, the *color* is a classic color for a Stingray. I just bought one on sale about 23% off from M.F. yesterday. I guess I'll find out how I like it in about a week!
fantastic t-shirts
Thank you :)
Not worth the work to switch, just sit the eq on the amp.
However, if you will open up the electronics, you may as well upgrade the Pickup and Preamp and them use a push/pull… buy a Rey34 or just let it be.
I know you’ve done more videos on this Bass with all the mods but I’m just venting on this setup.
You Rock, Lowend Lobster👍🏽
Thanks Sumbi!
Parallel config is way better than the series one. It sounds the most close to a Stingray bass! Great job and great video!
Anyway, with a John East pre it will be one of the best sounding Singrays in your home, i.m.o. ahahaha
I was just messing around with it. The preamp is really cool. I had a J-retro in my daily driver J for a long time.
Parallel is the way to go. I’d go the extra mile and get a replacement bridge to make it possible for a string thru body configuration. I’ve got the ray34 HH in pearl white. The wiring is screwy too. Instead of position 2 & 4 being outer coils and inner coils, respectively it’s full bridge pickup and outer neck coil and inner bridge coil and full neck pickup. While it isn’t how it’s supposed to be according to diagrams it really makes for some interesting tones. 🤷🏻♂️
Very interesting. I explored the Ray5hh earlier on in the channel but not in the detail that I've done recently. Need to def check out the Ray4hh and 34hh some point soon and do a deep dive
It’s pretty good. I’ve debated on rewiring it but I think this way makes it unique. The only mod done was I had my gf sticker bomb the pick guard. Which I feel is only fitting since I named it after her.
I like both. I would install a switch or push pull.
Thanks Klay! Not a bad idea :)
@@LowEndLobster I agree w/ klaymeister. Both options need to be accessible.
Cheers 🍻
This is the plan I have for the one I just got.
Me too.
More lows are loaded in series, more mids in parallel, I like both!
Thanks David :)
I think i like parallel gonna run my pbass like this ...I'm not really big on mids seems like a nice fit for me
Thanks Kelsey!
I think a push-pull to switch between the two would be a good idea!
Thanks Ryan! Unfortunately because of the way the preamp is configured that'd be pretty hard but a switch could be added before the preamp.
First of I really like your clips very informative . Can you tell me is the Sterling ray 4 wired in series as well as I just purchased on I would like to wire it in parallel as well . Thanks in advance. Cheers.
Sterling Ray 4 is wired in series. Not all pickups of theirs can be wired in parallel, some are only two conductor and not four.
Thank you for the info.
Honestly, I like series more. But having it as an option is cool.
That's why I put both clips there, let people make up their own minds! :) Thank you PastelComGini!
This is a sick video! I feel like the preamp is very mediocre compared to the pickup, wonder how much of a difference that would make?
You'll be seeing soon :)
well I think I need to open mine that I got off your recommendation and make it into a parallel. just need to practice my soldering skills first lol
Series sounded a little darker with a bit more attack while parallel seemed to have a more balanced tone, pretty much what you would expect. I couldn't possibly decide which I like better without playing the bass in a rehearsal to hear how each sounded in a mix, and would probably end up wanting to install a series/parallel switch.
So, did the mod require any soldering? Just curious as you said it only took you a few minutes. I like soldering and would have been a little disappointed if I didn't have to solder. :)
Yup! Just two solder points. You disconnect the existing bridged lead/ground that are taped up, and then wire those to the existing lead and ground spots on the preamp PCB. Very easy.
@@LowEndLobster you should do a video doing it for schmucks like me
TBH i much prefer the series. It sounds brighter to me. I've watched some other test, i dunno if it was Yours, or somebody did - all those budget Sterlings. And i liked the standard Ray24 the most.
I like series way more. The high end is less obnoxious and the low end to low mid fundamental area comes through better. Parallel sounds kinda hollow and bright to me but it might be that i never liked stingrays much to begin with, i always liked p basses rics on the neck pup and t birds.
That's Steven! That's why I provide both clips, let the sounds do the talking and let you folks decide what you like :).
Think for finger style I *slightly* preferred series. Preferred parallel for slap. You made both sound good though 👍
Have you ever done a Ray pickup head to head? Between the various stock pups, the Aguilar, SD, Wilkenson, etc. in various projects, any preferences so far? I now have a SUB en route (I blame Shia) and if conventional wisdom holds may be tempted to try a swap in the not too distant future.
Thanks Joe! I have a BIG head to head to head to head to head to head coming. 6x SUBs modded with 3 band preamps and pickups from EMG, Aguilar, SD, Nordstrand, Bartolini and Tone Monster! I just finished modding the last of them yesterday and going to begin shooting video this weekend! Very excited for this. Not all of them have the goal of sounding like a "traditional" ray, so I'm not going to judge them in that way, but we'll be looking at ease of installation, components, features, sounds, etc. Going to do separate videos on each SUB, and then a big video comparing some of the more popular settings between the 6. Stay tuned :)
Sweeeeeet - looking forward to it!
I prefer the tone of the pickup in series. It has more guts. However if your taste is a stingray tone then go with parallel. If I had 2, I would keep 1 parallel and the other series. My tone is the series.
Thanks Dalton! I love the "more basses" solution ;P
Hey what Pick Up would you throw in an OLP passive Stingray to bwt that grit. I just got one for $100 and it sounds pretty decent but i know it can sound better, it feels really good in the hands so I'm keeping it, it also stays in tune nicely
I think a nice Nordy would do the trick just right!
@@LowEndLobster thanks 🤗
Hello! I know this is an old video so you may not see my comment but I had a question. Do you have a video of how to change it to parallel? I’m getting one of these in a trade and want to use it as a project. This will be my first time modding a bass. Or if there is a diagram of what I have to swap that helps too. Thanks!
Is it possible to mod a HH from series to parallel? Do you have any information how to do this?
Lots of people seems interested in a switch, as well as myself. Would it be possible to do? And if yes, would it be possible to have a vid to show how to do it? Today at long & mcquade, I tried the RaySS4 which has a factory switch for series, single and parallel mode. Its a pretty cool feature but unfortunately not available in any of the full size Sterling. I preferred parallel for slapping but series for fingering.
Hi, I’m the New owner of a 2021 ebmm sterling5. Suppose to be wired in series except both humbucker in parallel in position 3. If you take a look on picture, pickups only have 3 wires. Black, red and green. How can they split coil in position 2 and 4 with only 3 wires? Can I install a switch to have my Humbucker in parallel in position one when I need to?
wich pot with humbucker in parallel, 250k or 500k? wich one is better with e better response wich 0.1mf tone cap?
I like it in series.
Thanks Tim!
Parallel sounds more shimmery like a real USA Musicman. I had a G&L M2500 once and I wondered why I couldn't get a nice open sound like on my L2500. Turns out the M2500 is wired series. I sold it.
Thanks Richard! I didn't know that about the M2500. I really need to dive deeper into G&L
Please help Lobster!
I just bought a stingray ray34ca! Yes 34 not 24
Its a 2 band eq instead of the 3band
The bass is really heavy and slab body and has seymour duncan pickup.
What do you think about it? Is it stock ray34ca the same quality as a newer 3band eq ray34.
Ive heard that it actually sounds fuller and better than the newer but this 34ca model is discontinued. Soo im worry i made a bad decision.
Thanks:)
Parallel sounds a tad more refined and I like the trade off for a bit less aggressive output.
Thanks Rick! I agree
Got a new pickup today for my SUB bass. Going to wire in parallel but can't find any pictures or wiring diagrams to show where to solder. I've found a video for in series but not in parallel. Can anybody help? I'll be doing it in the next couple of days (waiting for my soldering iron 🙃). Thanks!
In Series the low end seemed enhanced, in Parallel the high end was enhanced. We need a humbucker switch installation video. Lol.
I think I like the sound of the series a bit more, but it's way too hot and unruly in series with my Ray4. I'll be trying parallel tonight
The difference is subtle. I’ll probably rewire mine, or rather have someone else rewire it as the solder points are pretty small.
Thanks John! Good luck either way you go :)
I'm looking at getting my first bass and was wondering which you would reccomend I was looking at the fretless classic vibes bass by squire
Hey Joel, not a bad choice for a first bass. I did a review of one, check it out :) - ruclips.net/video/lg6s8Wj8X6I/видео.html
@@LowEndLobster I just watched your review and the bass looks really nice, are there any other basses you would reccomend for a beginner around that price range or is that the best one in your opinion.
I wonder if they wired it in series to give it a more "vintage" sound with the thicker lower mids and rolled off treble? Since they didn't actually use the classic style preamp?
No idea honestly
One theory I have is they wired it in series to sound more “appealing” to bass beginners or Stingray beginners who actually don’t have an idea how a real Stingray should sound like.
more likely they want you to spend more money to get an authentic stingray sound
@@andygrace3825 I think this is the case as well. Honestly, I'd like to get some answers to some of those questions from someone at SBMM. Maybe one day :)
If you only had one choice on the desert island….I say series. I can always neuter the series pickup if I need too. Don’t know if I could roid up the parallel. Plus, this bass players works best with less choices.
Parallel definitely has a sweeter tone, switched mine that way too. Series output is very hot, difficult to eq a good sound IMO.
Thanks! Indeed, I kept it in parallel with the new pre. Vid coming soon for that :)
Did you have to solder the ground and hot wires to the correct locations to get parallel or are there clips/slots? Thanks!
Great question! You have to solder for the stock preamp
@@LowEndLobster Cool, man. Sorry, I scrolled thru the comments after I commented and saw you answered this question already lol… I just ordered one of these but haven’t received it yet. I’ve owned many EBMM Stingrays over the years and sold them all.. only wish I had one back- 1992 sunburst/rosewood 2 band eq.. even had a natural Stingray Classic with a birdseye maple neck that warped!! Sent back to EBMM and they replaced it with a non figured neck. But I sold ot. Mostly play a P bass and J bass now, but wanted another Stingray in my arsenal for that punchy sound, but didn’t want to spend $2k on a bass that wouldn’t be my main axe, so ordered the Sterling… sorry for the novel lmao
What bass did you use to record the intro song?
Great question! That's the Reverend Fellowship Me'Shell signature bass
What are your plans for the 3 band pre as far as pot layout goes? Stacked Pot for Mid/Bass / High/Mid? My gf just got herself this classic 24 sterling as a five string and I am planing to switch the volume pot for a push pull or push push to give her both serial and parallel at will. I think that is definitely the best option for this bass. What do you think? Thanks for the in depth videos and also for talking about the exposed wires on the pickup. We might have gone for the sub series, not knowing that those have only two leads exposed! :)
Great question! For the Ultimate Stingray Mod Guide, I paired this bass with the John East MMSR 3 band preamp which has two stacks - bass/treble and mid/mid freq. However, I ended up putting that East preamp in my Dingwall. I gave this Ray24 away and put in an Aguilar DCB pickup and Darkglass preamp. I used a stacked pot to make a High Mid/Bass control, and an independent low mid control.
Here's the John East preamp video- ruclips.net/video/pKLPOj8ucXw/видео.html
and the DCB/Darkglass vid- ruclips.net/video/w1awEAe2qjo/видео.html
@@LowEndLobster Do you happen to know the DC resistance of the classic ray 24 humbucker or maybe measure it for me? That would be very kind!
Let me see if I can find the pickup
@@LowEndLobster Nevermind, my girlfriend just received her's and it measures just over 20k. On another note: Do you know what those two round things are which are screwed in left and right of the bridge saddles? Looks like some kind of mounting mechanism to me, but I'm not sure.
@@MrJemabaris yes, they're part of the bridge structure. It's essentially the same as the pre Special music man stingray bridge. Not sure of it's really just for show as the Specials ditched that design all together
Parallel for classic Stingray Tone, crispy and slappy... Series for a Massive Rock Tone
Can we do the same for the Sterling Sub Ray 4 ?
It depends. Some ray4 pickups only have two wires while others have four. You can with the four wire one but not the two.
Parallel sounds closer to Bernard Edwards
Everybody DANCE!
I think P is better for recording. Maybe a DpDt switch is can give you the best of both worlds. Bartolini has wiring diagrams on their website for this.
Indeed! I was thinking about this, but I installed the John East preamp, and the switch would have made things a bit more cramped on that control pate. Stuck with Parallel for this, but my Mint-O-Ray has a S/P switch!
Shieeeet I'm rewiring mine right away. Def sounds closer to an OG stingray in parallel.
If you have a solid drill/drill press, you could totally make some room for a series/parallel switch and get both options. But yeah, the parallel mod definitely makes the tone a lot more in line with a real classic stingray
@@LowEndLobster thanks Lobster. You're the bossss
Like what I said in another comment section of yours, I kinda regret buying a Nordy pickup replacement and not a John East preamp instead. Lol
Well wait until you see the Nordy SUB ;P.
I just got a Ray35CA and tried the parallel mod. Although it says ~4.4 kOhm per coil and wired in parallel it gives ~2.3 kOhm (which makes sense that the right wires have been connected) - I experienced a HUGE drop in volume. At 100% vol in Parallel it sounds like 10% vol in Series.
Did you notice that too? Any suggestions on what could´ve gone wrong? @LowEndLobster
Anyone have a proper wiring diagram for installing a parallel/single coil/series switch?
That's odd.... Perhaps it's wired out of phase? I'd try swapping the + and - on one of the coils. Parallel has a bit less kick, but it shouldn't be that drastic.
@@LowEndLobster Thanks, that was it. It was wired out of phase. Got it fixed - for anyone interested: red&black goes together to hot and green/white to ground. Then you get amazing parallel tones out of your SBMM Ray. :-D Great tone option - I might install a switch now - like both sounds on their own right.
Parallel sounds totally Louis Johnson!
:)
What are the pin-out colors? which ones are wired together for parallel?
I believe black+red and white+green+shield for parallel :)
can confirm, just did the same thing to my 35ca.
(damn if I can see this comment earlier
The whole reason I would get a Ray 4 is for two band EQ. I understand the stock preamp isn't that good but put in another 2 band preamp
I actually like series. It’s fatter with thicker mids with just enough bark and snarl.
A true classic would use a boost only i.e. Nordstrand which is based on the original circuit. I have one in my American made SUB. Parallel is the best with an active pre, but passive sounds better with Series.
I think that both series and parallel offer enough to add a switch so you can have both.
Thanks Jason! I was considering this :)