I am tuning 32/36 for mu 2.0 ford taunus . It have 55 idle , 134 main , 160 corrector , and it going rich high , above 4500 it going into 10 afr . Idle and low to half throttle is great .Very nice to drive Emulsion tube is important , where holes are placed . Im playing now with emulsions holes and air corrector to get mixture perfect to all throttle openings Take out emulsion tubes and look where holes are located . On top - weaks low rpm mixtures , mid is for mid range , and holes on bottom are for high rpm .
I put one of these on a Ford inline-6 200cid/3.3L, and in stock setup it was super lean... Now running 85/65 Idle Jets, 160/150 Primary Jets. But I also have dual 2.5" exhaust also at 1000' elevation. I also noticed the floats weren't adjusted right, and I needed a fuel pressure regulator b/c my pump was pushing 7 psi. It's now 2-3 psi.
Weber carburettors are a great engineering feat that are as close to fuel injection due to their ability of being tuned across all the fuel delivery circuits. But! Before they behave there are several things that MUST be sorted first. Enemy number 1 is air intake leaks & secondly, exhaust leaks. 3. Fuel pressure must be kept low and consistent like another post mentioned 2-3 psi. 4. Timing should be advanced a few degrees (3-5) at first then finally adjusted once jetting is in a healthy range. So what’s a healthy range? Biscuit coloured plugs and tail pipe & you will feel the engine pull the car hard when the secondary circuit kicks in. You will also hear a definitive crackle throughout the exhaust. You will know it when you hear it. Now you can advance the timing just prior to it pinging. Pinging is bad, so if you can set it a few degrees short of that it should be ok.
I’m having problems with man and I can’t figure it out it runs fine at low to mid range rpm but like when I’m on the interstate it cuts out a lot and I have to let out of the gas and wait a few seconds then go for a little longer and I’ve tried all kinds of thing I can’t figure it out
Never have i ever seen a air fuel screw ineffective because of jets. You have a float or fuel pressure problem. Im sure you figured that out by now. Good luck
Thank you for the comment. After setting up this carburetor as seen in the video, the vehicle has performed flawlessly. Maybe you’re referring to a different style of carburetor which had a larger adjustment range. On these if the adjuster screw has to be turned out more than 2 turns (if I remember correctly) then it needs to be jetted differently. Cheers.
My fuel ajustment screw is essentially useless, i need to mess with jets apparently. My 2.0 Nissan is running rich, smells rich and tailpipe very sooty. I have a few webers laying around so i will see what kind of jets assortment i can scrounge up or order a kit. Good video.
I have a Weber carburetor 32/36 on A Suzuki samurai 1.3 engine. It run very high rich smell like unburned crude fuel. Also consume a lot of gas. Do you know what could be the cause, or a least where to start. Thank you
Change the jets in your carb to the same ones I did in the video. Also check your oil for gas, you may need to change your oil after re-jetting the carb. Hopefully that will get you in range to make adjustments.
I am tuning 32/36 for mu 2.0 ford taunus . It have 55 idle , 134 main , 160 corrector , and it going rich high , above 4500 it going into 10 afr . Idle and low to half throttle is great .Very nice to drive Emulsion tube is important , where holes are placed . Im playing now with emulsions holes and air corrector to get mixture perfect to all throttle openings Take out emulsion tubes and look where holes are located . On top - weaks low rpm mixtures , mid is for mid range , and holes on bottom are for high rpm .
I put one of these on a Ford inline-6 200cid/3.3L, and in stock setup it was super lean...
Now running 85/65 Idle Jets, 160/150 Primary Jets. But I also have dual 2.5" exhaust also at 1000' elevation.
I also noticed the floats weren't adjusted right, and I needed a fuel pressure regulator b/c my pump was pushing 7 psi. It's now 2-3 psi.
Weber carburettors are a great engineering feat that are as close to fuel injection due to their ability of being tuned across all the fuel delivery circuits. But! Before they behave there are several things that MUST be sorted first. Enemy number 1 is air intake leaks & secondly, exhaust leaks. 3. Fuel pressure must be kept low and consistent like another post mentioned 2-3 psi. 4. Timing should be advanced a few degrees (3-5) at first then finally adjusted once jetting is in a healthy range. So what’s a healthy range? Biscuit coloured plugs and tail pipe & you will feel the engine pull the car hard when the secondary circuit kicks in. You will also hear a definitive crackle throughout the exhaust. You will know it when you hear it. Now you can advance the timing just prior to it pinging. Pinging is bad, so if you can set it a few degrees short of that it should be ok.
Do you know what size jets should be used for a Weber 32 / 36 DGAV in an MG 1275 engine?
Maybe I missed it. What size secondary did you put in the float bowl? (Primary was 137 down to a 125)
I’m having problems with man and I can’t figure it out it runs fine at low to mid range rpm but like when I’m on the interstate it cuts out a lot and I have to let out of the gas and wait a few seconds then go for a little longer and I’ve tried all kinds of thing I can’t figure it out
A air fuel gauge might be needed to help track down what’s going on. Is it running rich up top? Or lean? A air fuel gauge will tell you that.
Never have i ever seen a air fuel screw ineffective because of jets. You have a float or fuel pressure problem. Im sure you figured that out by now. Good luck
Thank you for the comment. After setting up this carburetor as seen in the video, the vehicle has performed flawlessly. Maybe you’re referring to a different style of carburetor which had a larger adjustment range. On these if the adjuster screw has to be turned out more than 2 turns (if I remember correctly) then it needs to be jetted differently. Cheers.
My fuel ajustment screw is essentially useless, i need to mess with jets apparently. My 2.0 Nissan is running rich, smells rich and tailpipe very sooty. I have a few webers laying around so i will see what kind of jets assortment i can scrounge up or order a kit. Good video.
What are you running this carb on?
This engine is currently in a 87’ Golf with a 1.8L 8V.
I have a Weber carburetor 32/36 on A Suzuki samurai 1.3 engine. It run very high rich smell like unburned crude fuel. Also consume a lot of gas. Do you know what could be the cause, or a least where to start.
Thank you
Change the jets in your carb to the same ones I did in the video. Also check your oil for gas, you may need to change your oil after re-jetting the carb. Hopefully that will get you in range to make adjustments.
@@rallyewerks870 Alright
Thank you! So when are jet the Weber go one number dawn accordingly on what I currently have. Thanks again.