Good info in here, but it'd be helpful if you had a tripod or some way to mount your recording camera overhead. That way, you wouldn't have to work one-handed, the frame wouldn't be so jumpy, and we could actually see you de-solder/solder. Important things to see in my opinion. Plus, watching a 10+ min video with constant, jumpy movement makes it hard to watch.
Great information. The x-570 and x-700 were some of my favorite cameras to shoot with in the days of film. But they stopped working over and over, so finally moved over to Nikon. I bet the issues were always the capacitors. A shame they used those cheap capacitors, because they'd have kept a lot more customers and could have been seen as a more professional company. Those Minolta cameras were buttery smooth to use and some of the clearest viewfinders I ever used. A true joy to use when they actually worked!
Nope, X-570 only uses 1 capacitor, if you are sure the polarity is correct on the cap and soldering joint is nice and sound, I'd suggest looking at the battery cap, because sometimes there is corrosion below the metal contacts that prevents the battery from proper connection, see this video I made about the battery cap, if you can find a replacement cap from another minolta camera to try out, or test the cap with a multi-meter. ruclips.net/video/x0bQj0OfR5A/видео.html
I bought the X700 brand new it must have been about 1987. It just died like a dead battery but it was still on warranty so i sent it in and Minolta fixed it and it worked for years. I have been told that the early models had trouble but later models didn’t.
it is the other way around the early ones used good capacitors, the late ones are the ones that corners were cut. Minolta started using cheap parts to compete with the low dollar camaras on the market .
I'm about to be given an x-700 for free because of this issue so I'm hoping to be able to fix it - I suppose I only lose out on the replacement cap cost if I can't, but man I will try haha. Thanks for the vid, it was very helpful!
@@TheGizmoGarage thanks man. We replaced the capacitors in two cameras (including the top, one of which had already been replaced!) and they didn't revive unfortunately. Figured I will buy either the 700 or another and at least I have spare parts in case it ever needs a repair 😁
@@actuallyWurfles That sucks, have you tried to inspect the battery cap? Because they are also very prone to going bad! As I have figured out the hard way! ruclips.net/video/x0bQj0OfR5A/видео.html If you have a multi-meter, test the voltage from the negative terminal of the battery placed on the battery cap, and the thread area of the cap, if the voltage is less than 3V, then battery cap is defective and that may be the issue instead of the capacitor.
@@TheGizmoGarage I considered it but I didnt have a way to test the issue, perhaps I should though as it could save me handing over a lot more money for the camera. The camera doesn't power on at all so that's definitely something to look at, thanks!
I was thinking it odd that you said "all of them" have this issue, but my X700 that I got used for 50 bucks with tons and tons of accessories doesn't have this issue. Then you showed the old capacitor compared to the new capacitor. Then I had the idea to open the bottom of my camera and see what was in there. Sure enough, it's already been replaced before I got it. So NICE! Not that it matters too much. Those two capacitors look pretty easy to reach and replace.
@@TheGizmoGarage Ehh I've seen worse to be honest. It's not even dealing with complex clock work mechanisms like I've seen on older cameras. Electronics is sorta my bag.
I have a x700 with the same issue, bought in 1991.However the camera does beep, and the lcd do lightup. What could be the problem? Any info would be helpful.
Excellent explanation. The problem is you truly need to mount the camera. The bouncy camera is extremely annoying and very difficult watching, were do we focus?
good afternoon , I have the x-700 and it beeps when I turn it on but the shutter will not fire all the way? What may be the problem ? A capacitor? If so would it be the top or bottom?
Hi! I just got a X-300s on a flea market. I bought it cause it was in a very very good condition but the shutter's block. I open the back plate to check what's wrong and of course the capacitor looks bad ( one pin is green and i know it's not good xD ). Did you know if they are the same capacitor for the X-700 and the X-300s ? Cause the circuits looks very similar. Thank's for your video and hope you can help me on this journey ! Good day mate.
Usually both are placed by camera repair tech, but now days it's hard to find a reputable film camera repairman anymore and DIY project would be challenging to access the top capacitor. X570 only has 1 cap at bottom and that would be a better option if you are worried.
@@TheGizmoGarage i have two x 700's both work but if this is a problem i will expect one to fail! I was also told the early ones had better capacitors. One is 1981 the other is a 1983 so both are early.
Hello, I have a small issue with my Minolta x700. The speed displayed in the viewfinder is always very low in "Aperture priority" or "manual" mode. However, if I switch to "program mode" without placing the zoom in the "program mode" notch, the displayed speed is higher and seems more consistent. I admit to being a bit confused. Thanks for your help. Ps: I love your videos!!
In Aperture mode, your shutter speed is determined by the aperture ring, so if you set your lens to a larger aperture (smaller number such as F2.8, F4 instead of F16, F22, or F32), it will give the correct exposure. What is also important is to make sure the ISO setting is set to the correct film speed as indicated.
Really curious how operation top capacitor turned out! Its that my x700 has emotional value otherwise this whole repair thing would be a big no no for me... Stil not looking forward to it to be honest.
I gave up after opening up the top cover of X-700, I sold this camera for parts... Very furstrating... But I do still love my X570 as it's much easier to replace the only capacitor at the bottom of the camera with a high quality one and ensure long durability.
Hi, so i just recently replaced both capacitors on the old Minolta X-700 i got from my grandfather, it's not the easiest, but it is possible, took me about 3 hours to do, but it works now. You can't do much wrong it is just difficult to solder the new (slightly bigger) one in on such a tight space. Make sure the new Capacitor is 220uF and at least 4V
I used the best available: www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/panasonic-electronic-components/4SEP150M/4204183 but you can also use the slightly cheaper one found here: www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/nichicon/UMA0G221MDD/2598600
@@TheGizmoGarage Hi again! Do you think a 4V 270 uF capacitor would work correctly? It's the one I have available at the moment. Thanks in advance! Your videos are really helpful!
I don’t know HOW you were able to unscrew those small screws from the bottom - props to you. Two different Minolta 570s. Tried every precision screwdriver I had. Even bought one for picking apart watches from Amazon. Can’t loosen those screws. If you have this problem - might as well start looking for a different film camera.
JIS Crosspoint Screwdriver REQUIRED to service most Japanese cameras: amzn.to/3FxOC7b It's also highly likely both your bodies had prior water damage and a rusted bottom plate :( You never know what those camera goes through in the past few decades.
@@TheGizmoGarage Hi, so the capacitor sould be exactly 220uF but the voltage is not as important it should at least suport 4V but more is not a problem ;)
Nothing happens. The voltage rating is what the capacitor is capable of withstanding. It doesn't influence the voltage in the circuit whatsoever. You could theoretically put a 10,000 volt capacitor in there and nothing would happen. It just means the capacitor could withstand 10,000 volts. That said, a higher voltage capacitor would be physically larger, so it might not fit in the same spot as the old one. So do try to put in the correct voltage and correct uF rating for the capacitor. Never go SMALLER on the voltage rating, that's very bad. If the original cap is a 4 volt cap, never put a lower rated (less than 4 volts) cap in there, or fire and leaking goo may result.
Good day. At the outset, I want to thank you for an interesting instructional video. These are helpful materials and there are still not enough of them, it is good to revive the old technique. I like this hobby, but I ran into a big problem with my Leica Af-c1 camera. I bought it defective, the flashlight does not work. When I try to take a photo, it is reset and advances one frame. By holding still the "Off" button when turning the camera on, I can take pictures without the flash even in zoom mode. I made a roll of film with it and apart from the scrolled blank frames, the other exposures turned out very well. I opened the camera to see the capacitor that is not working (I can't hear "bzzzzz" charging). The cables by the lamp are okey. The capacitor is labeled 280v 230uf. There is no such replacement available on the market. Can I use a capacitor with a different power? I do not care for the lamp to flash at full power, but for the camera to work without the need to hold the "Off" button. I also reckon with soldering this switch to take photos with greater ease. I would be grateful for some advice. Thank you and best regards 😀 👍👍
Okay so I got a x-700 and my winding lever worked and I fired 1 shot and after that the winding lever got stuck at 30• and now the shutter doesn’t fire. Can someone help me? I thought it couldn’t be the capacitor since it worked a second before..
If the mirror stuck at up position, then maybe it's the battery running low. The winding lever mechanism might also need physical adjustment if it doesn't wind all the way. Shutter won't fire until winding is fully complete. But it's a bit tricky to do so do it with caution. ruclips.net/video/6ZndFfBOvSI/видео.html&ab_channel=FixOldCameras
Hey, I have a Minolta X-GM the light meter still works, however the advance lever is stuck and the shutter button does nothing. Do you think it's the Capacitor?
Quite a lot to diagnose, it could be a physical damage to film advancing mechanism from a drop/shock, or corroded battery terminal, and capacitor could also be the corrupt: simonhawketts.co.uk/2016/05/04/minolta-xg-m-capacitor-replacement/
@@TheGizmoGarage Thanks for the reply - is there anything you would recommend doing first? The camera advance lever and shutter worked for one shot before it stopped working. What order of troubleshooting would you undertake?
Thank you in 2021 i took a trip to Monterey CA. I only took my X-700 only to find my lever locked up. Found a video on utube i think i had to be in the dark pop my lense and manually flip up my mirror and that reset the advance lever. Any idea on the issue?
@@TheGizmoGarage yes i put new battery in it. The lever was not locked it was just moving back and forth without engaging and the shutter wouldn't activate or make sound. Sorry i got wrong when i first posted. I found a utube video that had me pop the lense of lift the mirror and let it drop. Everything worked after that. Its happened once more since then..
Refer to this very useful article about which capacitor for the XG models, including XG-M www.678vintagecameras.ca/blog/what-was-up-with-minolta-and-capacitors
Hi, I have a very strange issue. I can get the beeping to work as well as LED indicators but the advancement lever is stuck and shutter won't fire. Any ideas? I also have an x-300s with the same exact problem :(
I have a Minolta X7-A. When I recorded it I put batteries in it and pressed the shutter button and the mirror went up, and has refused to come back down. With my finger I can move it down but it springs back up and stays there if I let it go. Is this a capacitor issue? Will the same capacitors for the X700 cameras work for the X7-A camera?
I also had one that just worked before I sold it a few months ago, but from what I read, it did seem like the early serial number models were less susceptible to the issue which that one was. I also had a dead one that was the top capacitor that was dead and it was a higher serial number. I attempted to fix it and yeah that circuit board was a pain to get to and I ended up breaking it.
@@aw614 i had two X700 Bodys one was bought new in 1983 the other was a 96. The old i still have and it works fine, the other I sold for parts because it quit working..
Not flathead screwdriver, but phillips or crosshead screwdriver. a flathead has a flat head, these don't, they have a cross head. The reason the original capacitor has no polarity markings is because it's a tantalum capacitor, they have no polarity. They can go in either direction. The one you used to replace it is an electrolytic capacitor, which does.
Thanks, the original capacitor did have polarity, it was printed on the backside of the capacitor, once it got taken out, was able to see the polarity and confirm.
Hello, that's not correct. They are both electrolytic caps. Tantalum electrolytic caps have a polarity, too but if one leg is marked it is the plus leg. Other than aluminium electrolytic caps, here is the marked leg the minus pole.
Negative. Ohms is the measurement of resistance, usually for resistors. The rating for capacitors is Farads. This capacitor he used is a 150uf capacitor (that's pronounced microfarads). Capacitor ratings are as follows.... Farads (F) Milifarad (not commonly used) (mF) Microfarad (one of the most common) (uF) Nanofarad (nF) Picofarad (the other most common) (pF) The difference between them is where the decimal place is located... with picofarad being 1 trillionth of a farad and milifarad being one thousandth of a farad. A 1000 picofarad capacitor is actually a 1 nanofarad capacitor, but is usually just referred to as a 1000 picofarad just to keep things standardized. 1 .000, 000, 000, 000 F mF uF nF pF
@@TheGizmoGarage suggestion - don't rant. You will loose your audience. You obviously have something interesting to say and people want to listen. They give you the courtesy of their attention and their time. Don't abuse it. Get to the point. A short video is much better than a long rant.
Good info in here, but it'd be helpful if you had a tripod or some way to mount your recording camera overhead. That way, you wouldn't have to work one-handed, the frame wouldn't be so jumpy, and we could actually see you de-solder/solder. Important things to see in my opinion. Plus, watching a 10+ min video with constant, jumpy movement makes it hard to watch.
funny you posted this now, this is the exact video i need right now
:) Good luck!
Great information. The x-570 and x-700 were some of my favorite cameras to shoot with in the days of film. But they stopped working over and over, so finally moved over to Nikon. I bet the issues were always the capacitors. A shame they used those cheap capacitors, because they'd have kept a lot more customers and could have been seen as a more professional company. Those Minolta cameras were buttery smooth to use and some of the clearest viewfinders I ever used. A true joy to use when they actually worked!
perfect timing to upload this, thanks
Update: I replaced the bottom capacitor on my x-570, but still no luck. Is there any other capacitor on the x-570 that I could replace to fix it?
Nope, X-570 only uses 1 capacitor, if you are sure the polarity is correct on the cap and soldering joint is nice and sound, I'd suggest looking at the battery cap, because sometimes there is corrosion below the metal contacts that prevents the battery from proper connection, see this video I made about the battery cap, if you can find a replacement cap from another minolta camera to try out, or test the cap with a multi-meter. ruclips.net/video/x0bQj0OfR5A/видео.html
I bought the X700 brand new it must have been about 1987. It just died like a dead battery but it was still on warranty so i sent it in and Minolta fixed it and it worked for years. I have been told that the early models had trouble but later models didn’t.
Great, sadly nowdays it's hard to figure out which camera is the old one and which is new
it is the other way around the early ones used good capacitors, the late ones are the ones that corners were cut. Minolta started using cheap parts to compete with the low dollar camaras on the market .
I'm about to be given an x-700 for free because of this issue so I'm hoping to be able to fix it - I suppose I only lose out on the replacement cap cost if I can't, but man I will try haha. Thanks for the vid, it was very helpful!
Good luck!
@@TheGizmoGarage thanks man. We replaced the capacitors in two cameras (including the top, one of which had already been replaced!) and they didn't revive unfortunately. Figured I will buy either the 700 or another and at least I have spare parts in case it ever needs a repair 😁
@@actuallyWurfles That sucks, have you tried to inspect the battery cap? Because they are also very prone to going bad! As I have figured out the hard way! ruclips.net/video/x0bQj0OfR5A/видео.html If you have a multi-meter, test the voltage from the negative terminal of the battery placed on the battery cap, and the thread area of the cap, if the voltage is less than 3V, then battery cap is defective and that may be the issue instead of the capacitor.
@@TheGizmoGarage I considered it but I didnt have a way to test the issue, perhaps I should though as it could save me handing over a lot more money for the camera. The camera doesn't power on at all so that's definitely something to look at, thanks!
I was thinking it odd that you said "all of them" have this issue, but my X700 that I got used for 50 bucks with tons and tons of accessories doesn't have this issue.
Then you showed the old capacitor compared to the new capacitor.
Then I had the idea to open the bottom of my camera and see what was in there. Sure enough, it's already been replaced before I got it. So NICE!
Not that it matters too much. Those two capacitors look pretty easy to reach and replace.
Not the top one which requires careful removal of top circuit board which is often vintage and fragile with very thin soldiered wires
@@TheGizmoGarage Ehh I've seen worse to be honest. It's not even dealing with complex clock work mechanisms like I've seen on older cameras. Electronics is sorta my bag.
I have a x700 with the same issue, bought in 1991.However the camera does beep, and the lcd do lightup. What could be the problem? Any info would be helpful.
Great Video - but what do you think of the Minolta XG-M and the X-9? are they prone to the same issues with x700? thanks
Never owned these so can't really comment, Sorry!
Excellent explanation. The problem is you truly need to mount the camera. The bouncy camera is extremely annoying and very difficult watching, were do we focus?
Will make sure camera is mounted stable :)
Thanks...i've got the Minolta X-370 and it is recomended to get the Panasonic P954-ND, do you have a better alternative ???
Anything is better than the cheap failed capacitor originally installed! Panasonic should be reliable.
good afternoon , I have the x-700 and it beeps when I turn it on but the shutter will not fire all the way? What may be the problem ? A capacitor? If so would it be the top or bottom?
If shutter gets stuck half way, definitely some other issue rather than capacitor
Hi! I just got a X-300s on a flea market. I bought it cause it was in a very very good condition but the shutter's block. I open the back plate to check what's wrong and of course the capacitor looks bad ( one pin is green and i know it's not good xD ).
Did you know if they are the same capacitor for the X-700 and the X-300s ?
Cause the circuits looks very similar.
Thank's for your video and hope you can help me on this journey !
Good day mate.
Do you need to replace the top one in the x-700? Or is just doing the bottom one enough?
Usually both are placed by camera repair tech, but now days it's hard to find a reputable film camera repairman anymore and DIY project would be challenging to access the top capacitor. X570 only has 1 cap at bottom and that would be a better option if you are worried.
Is there a chance of extra damage occurring if you wait until the capacitors fail in these cameras?
No extra damage as far as I know
will the chrome or silver version of X700 have the same capacitor...have you seen?
What would it cost to have the top Capacitar Changed . on the 700 at a camara shop .
It requires a lot of disassembly if capacitor on top of the camera needs to be replaced, so I would say it probably is not cheap.
@@TheGizmoGarage i have two x 700's both work but if this is a problem i will expect one to fail! I was also told the early ones had better capacitors. One is 1981 the other is a 1983 so both are early.
Hello, I have a small issue with my Minolta x700. The speed displayed in the viewfinder is always very low in "Aperture priority" or "manual" mode. However, if I switch to "program mode" without placing the zoom in the "program mode" notch, the displayed speed is higher and seems more consistent. I admit to being a bit confused. Thanks for your help.
Ps: I love your videos!!
In Aperture mode, your shutter speed is determined by the aperture ring, so if you set your lens to a larger aperture (smaller number such as F2.8, F4 instead of F16, F22, or F32), it will give the correct exposure. What is also important is to make sure the ISO setting is set to the correct film speed as indicated.
Really curious how operation top capacitor turned out! Its that my x700 has emotional value otherwise this whole repair thing would be a big no no for me... Stil not looking forward to it to be honest.
I gave up after opening up the top cover of X-700, I sold this camera for parts... Very furstrating... But I do still love my X570 as it's much easier to replace the only capacitor at the bottom of the camera with a high quality one and ensure long durability.
Hi, so i just recently replaced both capacitors on the old Minolta X-700 i got from my grandfather, it's not the easiest, but it is possible, took me about 3 hours to do, but it works now.
You can't do much wrong it is just difficult to solder the new (slightly bigger) one in on such a tight space.
Make sure the new Capacitor is 220uF and at least 4V
@@TheGizmoGarage What a shame. Seemed like an easy repair. Hopefully the new owner is enjoying their camera.
Nice Vid! Which capacitor would you reccomend For a Minolta X-300S? I bought a Broken one and it's pretty likely It Will have this issue
I used the best available: www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/panasonic-electronic-components/4SEP150M/4204183 but you can also use the slightly cheaper one found here: www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/nichicon/UMA0G221MDD/2598600
@@TheGizmoGarage Thanks a lot!! I highly appreciate it!!
@@TheGizmoGarage Hi again! Do you think a 4V 270 uF capacitor would work correctly? It's the one I have available at the moment. Thanks in advance! Your videos are really helpful!
There is not much camera space so a larger cap size may be too big to fit in the space.
How much of this information is relevant on my Minolta XG-1?
XG-1 is newer and should be suffering the capacitor issue. If anything power related, I would check for battery cap corrosion instead.
I don’t know HOW you were able to unscrew those small screws from the bottom - props to you. Two different Minolta 570s. Tried every precision screwdriver I had. Even bought one for picking apart watches from Amazon. Can’t loosen those screws.
If you have this problem - might as well start looking for a different film camera.
JIS Crosspoint Screwdriver REQUIRED to service most Japanese cameras: amzn.to/3FxOC7b It's also highly likely both your bodies had prior water damage and a rusted bottom plate :( You never know what those camera goes through in the past few decades.
my iphone came with tiny screw drivers that can do the job
What happens when I get capacitors with a higher voltage??
I don't know, not a electrical engineer... But it might overload the mirror and shutter circuit?
@@TheGizmoGarage Hi, so the capacitor sould be exactly 220uF but the voltage is not as important it should at least suport 4V but more is not a problem ;)
Nothing happens. The voltage rating is what the capacitor is capable of withstanding. It doesn't influence the voltage in the circuit whatsoever. You could theoretically put a 10,000 volt capacitor in there and nothing would happen. It just means the capacitor could withstand 10,000 volts.
That said, a higher voltage capacitor would be physically larger, so it might not fit in the same spot as the old one. So do try to put in the correct voltage and correct uF rating for the capacitor. Never go SMALLER on the voltage rating, that's very bad. If the original cap is a 4 volt cap, never put a lower rated (less than 4 volts) cap in there, or fire and leaking goo may result.
Good day. At the outset, I want to thank you for an interesting instructional video. These are helpful materials and there are still not enough of them, it is good to revive the old technique. I like this hobby, but I ran into a big problem with my Leica Af-c1 camera. I bought it defective, the flashlight does not work. When I try to take a photo, it is reset and advances one frame. By holding still the "Off" button when turning the camera on, I can take pictures without the flash even in zoom mode. I made a roll of film with it and apart from the scrolled blank frames, the other exposures turned out very well. I opened the camera to see the capacitor that is not working (I can't hear "bzzzzz" charging). The cables by the lamp are okey. The capacitor is labeled 280v 230uf. There is no such replacement available on the market. Can I use a capacitor with a different power? I do not care for the lamp to flash at full power, but for the camera to work without the need to hold the "Off" button. I also reckon with soldering this switch to take photos with greater ease. I would be grateful for some advice. Thank you and best regards 😀 👍👍
Is the polarity of the bottom cap different on the X-700 compared to the X-300/500?
ah had seen it in the description...
Okay so I got a x-700 and my winding lever worked and I fired 1 shot and after that the winding lever got stuck at 30• and now the shutter doesn’t fire. Can someone help me? I thought it couldn’t be the capacitor since it worked a second before..
If the mirror stuck at up position, then maybe it's the battery running low. The winding lever mechanism might also need physical adjustment if it doesn't wind all the way. Shutter won't fire until winding is fully complete. But it's a bit tricky to do so do it with caution. ruclips.net/video/6ZndFfBOvSI/видео.html&ab_channel=FixOldCameras
Hey, I have a Minolta X-GM the light meter still works, however the advance lever is stuck and the shutter button does nothing. Do you think it's the Capacitor?
Quite a lot to diagnose, it could be a physical damage to film advancing mechanism from a drop/shock, or corroded battery terminal, and capacitor could also be the corrupt: simonhawketts.co.uk/2016/05/04/minolta-xg-m-capacitor-replacement/
@@TheGizmoGarage Thanks for the reply - is there anything you would recommend doing first? The camera advance lever and shutter worked for one shot before it stopped working. What order of troubleshooting would you undertake?
I have my father Minolta XG- that has this problem (hopefully it's just that) do you know if the XG-1 has just one capacitor? thanks!
Should have just 1 cap but might want to check battery terminal corrosion, as it's usually the case with Minolta battery caps.
@@TheGizmoGarage thanks! Will do :)
Thank you in 2021 i took a trip to Monterey CA. I only took my X-700 only to find my lever locked up. Found a video on utube i think i had to be in the dark pop my lense and manually flip up my mirror and that reset the advance lever.
Any idea on the issue?
Not sure... normally the lever only locks up when battery is low, have you tried replacing with new batteires?
@@TheGizmoGarage yes i put new battery in it. The lever was not locked it was just moving back and forth without engaging and the shutter wouldn't activate or make sound. Sorry i got wrong when i first posted.
I found a utube video that had me pop the lense of lift the mirror and let it drop.
Everything worked after that. Its happened once more since then..
@@jerryrichards8172 Had the same problem with mine, replaced the top capacitor and it works fine again.
@@nichtfabianbittedanke OK thank you
What capacitors would I need for a Xg series?
Refer to this very useful article about which capacitor for the XG models, including XG-M www.678vintagecameras.ca/blog/what-was-up-with-minolta-and-capacitors
Hi, I have a very strange issue. I can get the beeping to work as well as LED indicators but the advancement lever is stuck and shutter won't fire. Any ideas? I also have an x-300s with the same exact problem :(
It could be the issue described here if it's not the capacitor. See this video for reference. ruclips.net/video/6ZndFfBOvSI/видео.html
Did you find a solution to the problem with the x700 I have the very same symptoms
Hi for autor ! Writing me please the parameter to the capacitor's, i'm small deaf and not hear distinctly.
220uf 4v electrolytic (for bottom capacitor)
@@ivysirena4141 : thank you !
I have a Minolta X7-A. When I recorded it I put batteries in it and pressed the shutter button and the mirror went up, and has refused to come back down. With my finger I can move it down but it springs back up and stays there if I let it go. Is this a capacitor issue? Will the same capacitors for the X700 cameras work for the X7-A camera?
Sounds like a dead or weak battery. Get some SR55 batteries and try again. I always use these amzn.to/3FPgXH3
the other problem is magnet sticks also
can I send you my Minolta x700 for repair
Sadly as much as I want to help, I'm not capable of reparing X700
Somehow, im not the only one that need to change the capacitor on my x-700 😅
The one that doesn't need to change the caps on X-570/X700 is probably in the top 1% percentile X-D
I also had one that just worked before I sold it a few months ago, but from what I read, it did seem like the early serial number models were less susceptible to the issue which that one was. I also had a dead one that was the top capacitor that was dead and it was a higher serial number. I attempted to fix it and yeah that circuit board was a pain to get to and I ended up breaking it.
@@aw614 i had two X700 Bodys one was bought new in 1983 the other was a 96. The old i still have and it works fine, the other I sold for parts because it quit working..
Not flathead screwdriver, but phillips or crosshead screwdriver. a flathead has a flat head, these don't, they have a cross head.
The reason the original capacitor has no polarity markings is because it's a tantalum capacitor, they have no polarity. They can go in either direction. The one you used to replace it is an electrolytic capacitor, which does.
Thanks, the original capacitor did have polarity, it was printed on the backside of the capacitor, once it got taken out, was able to see the polarity and confirm.
Hello, that's not correct. They are both electrolytic caps. Tantalum electrolytic caps have a polarity, too but if one leg is marked it is the plus leg. Other than aluminium electrolytic caps, here is the marked leg the minus pole.
Use both hands please... get an overhead projector /camera
Not showing putting the capacitor in and out is beyond the whole point lol
I put a better soldering video in description: ruclips.net/video/f9fbqks3BS8/видео.html&ab_channel=LeoMakes
The unit of measurement is ohms pronounced oams.
Negative. Ohms is the measurement of resistance, usually for resistors.
The rating for capacitors is Farads. This capacitor he used is a 150uf capacitor (that's pronounced microfarads).
Capacitor ratings are as follows....
Farads (F)
Milifarad (not commonly used) (mF)
Microfarad (one of the most common) (uF)
Nanofarad (nF)
Picofarad (the other most common) (pF)
The difference between them is where the decimal place is located... with picofarad being 1 trillionth of a farad and milifarad being one thousandth of a farad. A 1000 picofarad capacitor is actually a 1 nanofarad capacitor, but is usually just referred to as a 1000 picofarad just to keep things standardized.
1 .000, 000, 000, 000
F mF uF nF pF
stop talking sooooo much!!!! We get it, capacitors Minolta used were cheep!!!! Just get on with it!!!
This video is a rant video + solution, chapters are included so you can skip to the important part!
@@TheGizmoGarage suggestion - don't rant. You will loose your audience. You obviously have something interesting to say and people want to listen. They give you the courtesy of their attention and their time. Don't abuse it. Get to the point. A short video is much better than a long rant.
@@igorvainshtein5731 I agree, thank you!
@@TheGizmoGarage I hope to see more good videos from you. Wishing you the best of luck!
150 micro farads