"Gut'en Tight" - you got me with the German version! 👍😂👍 These tolerances are pretty interesting. If this would be a common screw for a US-Car in a reassemble process I'd start to check metric vs. imperial on a thread like that. The shims are a cool solution and I personally like the heavy duty stuff by MOOG for my lowrider suspensions. Have a nice Sunday! 👋😉👍
Hi TOBi.......you use that spec all the time over there.....right!! :) It's a bit weird that the dimensions are so different between them. I'm not sure if it's manufacturing was a bit sloppy or if the spec they were given had a larger variance. It seems to be pretty common with these joints from what I read on the internet. Even MOOG's own instructions say that if the joint doesn't seat at 125ftlbs, replace the arm. Guys were reporting that even with new arms and joints they would not tighten down enough. I wouldn't want to weld a new joint into a new arm. I had this same issue the last time I made these arms. There are so many companies making these joints and arms/collars that it seems to just be luck of the draw on if they'll fit correctly or not. These joints are for '60's Chrysler cars and I've never come across a reference to any metric versions of them. Maybe there are metric cars that use a similar style, but I'm guessing not. I understand why they're popular.....they don't need the extra space for attachment bolts and they can be changed on the vehicle with simple tools. I just wish the companies making them would pay more attention to the final dimensions and tolerances. I hope you have a great Sunday, too!!! You're behind me, time-wise.....right? Your Sunday hasn't even started yet....?
@@bluehandsvideo Hi Mike, thanks a lot for your detailled reply. Especially the combo where you could set it without a single rotation must be "sloppyness-XXL". I hope you or someone within the community will find a perfect fit to match these parts. 👍👍 I made a mistake in my last post - I didn't use this type for my GM-Cars, but I guess for my 3500 Dodge Ram Van. So this matches your hint to Chrysler. And you might be 100% right about the welding. Four spot welds should improve the connection to "unbreakable". I also agree with you about the style to connect ball joints to control arms. To screw / rivet them is a typical style for the US. German cars have a lot of press fit connections and we change the whole control arm including the ball joints and bushings normally. Concerning the time I should be 6 (New York) to 9 (LA) hours ahaed - so atm I'm writing back to the future! 😁 [DeLorean left the chat at 88mph] So here it is Sunday eve already. But we do have an off-Monday, because October 3rd is the day to remember the German Unity. Viele Gruesse aus Deutschland ! 👋🇩🇪🇺🇸
@@WestBerlinCustoms The Hardbody truck these go on has a bolted in ball joint for the UCA and a press in for the LCA......but you know that since you own one. :) The Quick Steer ball joint fit perfectly....it's just too bad the more expensive MOOG joints don't. There are plenty of $80+ ball joints out there that will fit these collars, but I'm not going to buy any of them just to test fit. lol So it's getting close to lunch time on Monday over there. I was thinking about GMT line(in England), not the international date line(in the Pacific). DOH! Many greetings from Oregon. :)
@@bluehandsvideo Hi Mike, thanks for your always very informative answers. I appreciate your time! 🙌 I follow a lot of your videos (also on Insta) and I am really impressed by your skillz. The surface- and build quality and the engineering behind the parts are great! I had to google "DOH!" and ¡Ay, caramba! - I learned something! ☝😁 Have a nice evening, Grreting from Berlin to Oregon! 👋👋
Enjoyed the discussion/demonstration…🧐😵💫🤪keyboard commando thought!!!! Would a set screw through the side wall be a method of locking??? 🤔 do the shims act like bearings on the faces?
Thanks Chuck! As long as the thought is not you going commando at the keyboard..... :( LOL Interesting thought....and the answer would be, I'm not sure. I found some validation of the shim idea, but I've never seen a set screw. Would it create a weak point in the collar? I think the shims act more like I had gone in and added more material.....like welding a tiny extra surface on. One of the shims was actually cut in half by the forces when I pulled it out. I think they just help force the joint threads into the wall opposite them. The completely form to the threads, so also add thickness to the minor and major diameters.
@@mikejones4006 I'm guessing that the 772 and 727 use the same torque spec. I rear the same thing about the tack welding. I didn't want to do that since most of the people putting these on wouldn't have a welder. I seriously doubt many of them even had torque wrenches. The MOOG joints seemed to be the only issue and I found plenty of other posts online about them being too small. The issues probably started about the same time they started having them made in china.....at least I've been told they're made over there now. :(
Great video! I have a 1987 Plymouth Gran Fury with those K772 ball joints and your video is a great help!
Thanks! I'm happy to hear it helps. If you know anyone that needs some of those ball joints, I still have a ton of them on hand I need to get rid of.
"Gut'en Tight" - you got me with the German version! 👍😂👍
These tolerances are pretty interesting. If this would be a common screw for a US-Car in a reassemble process I'd start to check metric vs. imperial on a thread like that. The shims are a cool solution and I personally like the heavy duty stuff by MOOG for my lowrider suspensions.
Have a nice Sunday! 👋😉👍
Hi TOBi.......you use that spec all the time over there.....right!! :) It's a bit weird that the dimensions are so different between them. I'm not sure if it's manufacturing was a bit sloppy or if the spec they were given had a larger variance. It seems to be pretty common with these joints from what I read on the internet. Even MOOG's own instructions say that if the joint doesn't seat at 125ftlbs, replace the arm. Guys were reporting that even with new arms and joints they would not tighten down enough. I wouldn't want to weld a new joint into a new arm. I had this same issue the last time I made these arms. There are so many companies making these joints and arms/collars that it seems to just be luck of the draw on if they'll fit correctly or not. These joints are for '60's Chrysler cars and I've never come across a reference to any metric versions of them. Maybe there are metric cars that use a similar style, but I'm guessing not. I understand why they're popular.....they don't need the extra space for attachment bolts and they can be changed on the vehicle with simple tools. I just wish the companies making them would pay more attention to the final dimensions and tolerances.
I hope you have a great Sunday, too!!! You're behind me, time-wise.....right? Your Sunday hasn't even started yet....?
@@bluehandsvideo Hi Mike, thanks a lot for your detailled reply. Especially the combo where you could set it without a single rotation must be "sloppyness-XXL". I hope you or someone within the community will find a perfect fit to match these parts. 👍👍
I made a mistake in my last post - I didn't use this type for my GM-Cars, but I guess for my 3500 Dodge Ram Van. So this matches your hint to Chrysler. And you might be 100% right about the welding. Four spot welds should improve the connection to "unbreakable".
I also agree with you about the style to connect ball joints to control arms. To screw / rivet them is a typical style for the US. German cars have a lot of press fit connections and we change the whole control arm including the ball joints and bushings normally.
Concerning the time I should be 6 (New York) to 9 (LA) hours ahaed - so atm I'm writing back to the future! 😁 [DeLorean left the chat at 88mph]
So here it is Sunday eve already. But we do have an off-Monday, because October 3rd is the day to remember the German Unity.
Viele Gruesse aus Deutschland ! 👋🇩🇪🇺🇸
@@WestBerlinCustoms The Hardbody truck these go on has a bolted in ball joint for the UCA and a press in for the LCA......but you know that since you own one. :) The Quick Steer ball joint fit perfectly....it's just too bad the more expensive MOOG joints don't. There are plenty of $80+ ball joints out there that will fit these collars, but I'm not going to buy any of them just to test fit. lol
So it's getting close to lunch time on Monday over there. I was thinking about GMT line(in England), not the international date line(in the Pacific). DOH!
Many greetings from Oregon. :)
@@bluehandsvideo Hi Mike, thanks for your always very informative answers. I appreciate your time! 🙌
I follow a lot of your videos (also on Insta) and I am really impressed by your skillz. The surface- and build quality and the engineering behind the parts are great!
I had to google "DOH!" and ¡Ay, caramba! - I learned something! ☝😁
Have a nice evening, Grreting from Berlin to Oregon! 👋👋
@@WestBerlinCustoms You're more than welcome.....and thank you very much. :)
We watched a lot of Simpsons when my kids were younger. :)
I was reading the description of the screw in socket- 3/4” drive . May have been Sunex they called for 100 ft-lbs and a limit of 150 for loosening.
Enjoyed the discussion/demonstration…🧐😵💫🤪keyboard commando thought!!!! Would a set screw through the side wall be a method of locking??? 🤔 do the shims act like bearings on the faces?
Thanks Chuck! As long as the thought is not you going commando at the keyboard..... :( LOL Interesting thought....and the answer would be, I'm not sure. I found some validation of the shim idea, but I've never seen a set screw. Would it create a weak point in the collar? I think the shims act more like I had gone in and added more material.....like welding a tiny extra surface on. One of the shims was actually cut in half by the forces when I pulled it out. I think they just help force the joint threads into the wall opposite them. The completely form to the threads, so also add thickness to the minor and major diameters.
Awesome
Thanks Tim! -Mike
I may have been looking at the 727 socket.
I think the roundy racers commonly tack weld these.
@@mikejones4006 I'm guessing that the 772 and 727 use the same torque spec. I rear the same thing about the tack welding. I didn't want to do that since most of the people putting these on wouldn't have a welder. I seriously doubt many of them even had torque wrenches. The MOOG joints seemed to be the only issue and I found plenty of other posts online about them being too small. The issues probably started about the same time they started having them made in china.....at least I've been told they're made over there now. :(