The key is removable for use. As soon as you set the stove at the desired temperature. You are supposed to remove the key so that you do not burn yourself. You could always replace the key when you are making an adjustment and or turning it off but always pull the key out of the stove while in use so it does not get too hot and you don't need gloves. I wouldn't worry at all about putting gasoline into the stove opposed to white gas. The main difference between the two is that gasoline has fuel additives to clean the engine as well as octane to keep it from combusting at high-pressure. White gas is the same fuel without the octane and fuel additives to clean the motor but does have a rusted inhibitor added to the fuel. The big difference that you will find between the two fuels is that gasoline does burn a little more soot. Love your vid's keep it up.
Agree William. In the common vernacular, white gas means 'pure gasoline without the additives.' But who knows what that actually means to a chemical engineer. I do know it's not a singular 'pure anything' but a cocktail of various light petroleum distillates. Regardless, it should burn cleaner than unleaded - not necessarily safer.
One thing I really appreciate about your channel (apart from the excellent reviews) is the minimal intro (unlike some others that seem to have half the content taken up with random photos, unassociated video and awful choice of music). Cheers and looking forward to more 👍🇦🇺
I loved my Svea 123 for three decades, regardless of how starting is fiddly and you have to be careful not to tip your pot. Used to get fuel into the pre-heating cup by holding a flame under the stove. Later, someone developed a small pump that could be fitted to the filler hole. In those old days, there was no such thing as fire paste. Ahhh, nostalgia. Fuel funnels. Burner cleaning pic. Learning to be careful. Happy nostalgia.
Svea 123R also made in China is the only stove I got rid of because it didn't ever work properly - not impressed by the quality. I bought a Juwel 34 instead 60 years old and works beautifully. Use a bit of carbon mat in the well is a good option. One thing that is not the same is it has no safety valve and in a stove that works by heating itself up - I think not! Nice review BTW!!
The SVEA is like and old classic car that still runs great. The brass is more beautiful than the stainless. I will stick with my SVEA. Thanks for the video Dr. Ernie.
I love that non toxic gel! Awesome! Another thing you can do is put carbon felt in where you warm up the interior so the residue does not permanently stick to your stove.
Yes..I have a 1955 123. Remove key. And show the feature of rotating pot supports for larger pots like the one used in your demo. Longtime follower. Keep them coming!
Nice review. I love the Svea 123 and will stick with that as a winter bombproof stove. The Svea is both beautiful and reliable. So, my favorite gas stove is the Svea 123, favorite wood stove, Firebox five inchTitanium, favorite alcohol stove, click stand which is oh so stable.
I bought my SVEA 123 in 1974 at the original REI store in Seattle, it was an expensive purchase for a junior in high school. I am still using it to this day, so, when you figure that over 48 years of use and the beautiful patina it's acquired along the way, it was probably pretty cheap purchase after all! LoL!! I inherited my Dad's SVEA 123, which still runs, it's in need of a tune-up and rebuild, it is probably a late 1960's version. Tried out the butane burner stoves, but always returned to my simple, dependable, safe, noisy, little SVEA 123. *** If I remember correctly, the SVEA 123 and Optimus 80 could also be run on Denatured Alcohol in a pinch, (I've always used white gas.) I remember Optimus did make a Denatured Alcohol stove which was much larger than the SVEA 123 or Optimus 80, just never had any experience with one. ***
My mom who is 71 now still has her SVEA (we're from Denmark) from when she was young and as someone here mentions, you're not supposed to have the key in all the time, especially not while priming the stove.
I ordered one about a week ago. I have 9 svea 123 stoves some pack cook some r versions and a 8r . Plus 3 colman 425s 3 colman 502s a m1950 more alcohol stoves than I want to admit to some isobutaine stoves. 2 peak 550s. Also 3 400a's a colman 508 a 533 and a Indian made premis kerosene clone. So I would say yes I am a stovey. I'm hooked on stoves and I am very glad to see your post on both the 123r and the new lixada clone. Looking forwarding to mine showing up. This video will make finding one harder on those that want one. I like the shine of the stainless. I also spend to much time polishing the brass on my stoves and hate the residue from hand sanitizers so I either use stove Gas or denatured alcohol to prime with. Sometime I usea pump to get just a little pressure to fill the prime cup with fuel to start it off. Some times I just uses a bit of a drinking straw with a finger over the end. So many ways to light one of theses. All said my 123's are my favorites whether the be the pack cook clones or the real ones they just work and are fun to use and I find nothing disagreeable with the sound in fact that is how I adjust them in bright sun is by sound. You can't see the flame when trying to simmer rice but you can listen to them so no silent burner for me.
Another subtle difference is being able to reach the fuel cap without having to remove the windscreen. Less fuss when using a straw to dip a little fuel to prime it.
Nice review. I think I'll stick with my Svea. I do have one question though - why the reluctance to use petrol/gasoline? Personally, I've used gasoline in every one of my 'Coleman fuel' stoves over the past 3 decades including many that weren't 'rated for it' like the original MSR, Peak1, Coleman 2-burner and Svea 123r. 'White gas aka Coleman fuel' is not Naphtha which is basically zippo/charcoal lighter fluid and much less volatile. In use, Coleman fuel behaves like gasoline - I don't 'feel' much difference. Technically, they have very similar properties with gasoline a superior cold weather fuel with a flash point of -45F compared to Coleman fuel's +25F. Yet, the autoignition temp for gasoline is higher than Coleman fuel at 536F vs 419F (credit wikipedia). Seems like a win-win for gasoline. The primary downside to gasoline is all the additives which theoretically clog jets faster, although IME that is an infrequent occurrence and easy field fix. Other possible downside, I suspect the ethanol blends can deteriorate gaskets faster. To this end, I keep a few jerry cans of ethanol-free fuel on my farm to fuel small engines, camp stoves and the like. I love the convenience and redundancy of having a stove that runs off the same fuel as my truck or motorcycle. With the latter, I can refuel my Svea right off the petcock! Those are my thoughts and experiences. If anyone knows for a fact different please let me know. (I don't want to blow up any more than the next guy...)
A Svea clone without a pressure relief valve? I guess it could take your nature experience to a new explosive level! Nooo thanks! :D Great review (as always!), thank you @paleohikermd. Love this channel - it is clear that you've worked hard creating top quality content for gear and stove junkies - really appreciate it! Keep up the good work. Greetings from Norway. :)
The SEVA 123 stove was very popular with the Boy Scouts when I was a assistant scoutmaster back in the 80's. You get three or four of these going and you cant talk, they do make a lot of noise. Never had one myself. Had a Peak 1, which I still have. Now how ever I use a Trangia set up. No moving parts and very quiet.
On my Svea, I added a couple of small pieces of wood to the priming cup. It moderated the flame, and extended the life of the flame. Courtesy of Half Vast Flying
As far as gasoline vs white gas explosiveness. They're nearly identical substances. Pump gas just has some additives in it more attuned to car engines is all. So they're both just as explosive and "dangerous". I think you might be cofused with kerosene?
Im intrigued! The price alone... When I checked out the 123 thingy I got a little sticker shock. The key getting hot isn't an issue for me though. It's removable so just set the heat and let it hang from the chain until you need to adjust the flame. I would love to play with one myself but I don't know that many people in Livingston Parish that are into camp stoves. Although I'm trying to convince more people after hurricane Ida and the lack of power. Even the boil order on water after it was restored made my few stoves invaluable. Actually!!!! Video idea? Home storm gear? I got ideas I would love to share through you if you're interested. 😎
Uncle Google Says: "Benzine is another name for naphtha in the US, though the term is rarely used in this manner anymore. It's also a common name for gasoline in England. Naphtha (benzine) is a faster evaporating, less oily (“drier”) form of mineral spirits. It's not dangerous if used in moderation."
So i picked one of these up and love it but noticed that the base gets quite hot when in use. How do you keep it from damaging whatever surface you place it on? (Wood tables, plastic tables etc.)
I've been wondering about this stove ! I don't have one like this but I have been shopping around . The one thing I have noticed about this one is it dont sputter like all the others I've seen . Great video as usual Ernie! Take care and stay safe my friend !
Two things you can use in the primer cup.. Welders felt or fine steel wool.. Wrap it around the stem and tie it with a thin piece of wire then push it don into the primer cup.. squeeze a little alcohol on the material and light it up.
Agreed. Especially with Ernie saying that got a lot hotter than the brass version. As someone who has accidentally caused that patented Svea fireball I'm all too aware that this is one tired, careless simmer away from a pipebomb in the woods.
My original svea just had a fixed cap on the fuel reservoir. I replaced it with what I think you are calling a pressure relief valves cap, but not as a safety measure. It was so a small pressuring pump could be used to speed up the lighting process.
@@rmpruitt228 An overpressure valve is also integrated in this access for a pump. There is the closure with only overpressure valve and the one with pump connection + integrated valve.
I have been using a new Lixada wood burning stove that has just come on the market. It's on Amazon for $17. It is a 4 sided S/S pyramid design. Kinda big for backpacking and heavy but it sure works. it's another notch to carve in your stove testing files.
Svea has a pressure relief valve built into the fuel cap. The Lixada doesn't. Seems to make it more dangerous as its operating temperature is higher than the Svea,
My svea 123 and modified 123r, have awesome flame control. I can run it from simmer to high to nuke it. I can preheat them both with no fuel, maybe not at subzero. But i havent tested that yet.
Bought an Optimus 8R about 50 years ago. It's still ticking and I take it out every now and then and have fun using it. It likewise is not an ultralight option but it works in the winter as well as the summer.
I purchased one of these last in 2021 this time last year, the only thing that worries me is the filler cap, as there is no pressure release pip on the cap, and the Svea 123 cap is a different size, so it is a question of getting one made to fit it.
@@Thereal111t Yes, but the thread is different to the Svea or Optimus stoves, can you tell me where I might be able to get a cap with the pressure release pippet in the cap??
@@charlietango1635 the old Primus 71 used a different safety method. A hole was drilled straight through the tank from top to bottom. A steel wire was then soldered in place in the top and bottom filling the holes. This way, if the tank were to over pressure and deform, the wire would pull through one of the holes. If you google photos of Primus 71 stoves, you’ll eventually find some that show a solid cap and a small bump somewhere on top of the tank. This method worked with brass tanks. I’m not sure it would work with the stainless tank.
Great video as always, SVEA is an easy stove to work on and will last a lifetime. The Lixada is just a cheap stove and it shows. SVEAs are not cheap and the ones on EBay almost always need rebuilt. The rebuild kits are easy to find but the penta-tool to rebuild the valve is a little tricky to find. Old school stoves are fun to rebuild and I am glad you are taking an interest in them.
As far as I could see, the Lixada lacks the over pressure safety valve that the SVEA has on the cap. Could this stove rupture if it got too hot?.................
I tried using the lixada on a heavy rain storm. The ground is muddy and cold. The lixafa stove performed flawless. I noticed the container is very cool to touch while using it because the heat is absorbed by the muddy groumd with water. It did not affect the performance.
I wouldn’t use that stove just for the lack of the vent on the fill cap. Overheat that stove and it’s a bomb ready go off in your face. One important thing is that on the Svea or Lixada, you should never use a stand alone wind screen with them. These stoves are famous for overheat with a separate winds screen. Be safe and have fun.
I've used a windscreen for years, with my Svea and never had a problem. Just keep the front open and don't wrap the stove in it. There will be some heat loss this way and it won't blow up. BTW the pressure created supplies the fuel to the burner, so in reality you are always losing pressure.
Which is why i only use mine for quick tasks---- making coffee or steaming veggies. And you can tell when the flame's too high or loud, shut it the hell down.
I use a Wind Screen when necessary .. just keep it 'open' that heat is not trapped around the stove. But yes, these stoves do not like to be enclosed .. they tend to lose their cool.
I have a Svea-123 & an Optimus -R. Both from my college days in the early 1980's. While these will operate with Kerosene, Coleman Fuel (naptha), Diesel, Unleaded Gasoline & Denatured Alcohol ( methyl hydrate) I find the gasoline & alcohol to work best. There tends to be more maintaining & cleaning with kerosene, Coleman fuel & diesel. The Coleman fuel actually works the worst & sometimes won't even light the stoves. I know people tend to be afraid of gasoline but it's pretty much no more dangerous than the other fuels. They are all highly combustible. On another note: I always remove the key when cooking. It doesn't get hot that way. It's easy enough to reinsert for flame control & that's why it's attached to a chain; so you don't lose it. Cheers from Canada. *Edit: Almost forgot. The instructions with my old stoves say to pour a bit of alcohol in the shallow cup in the centre on the top of the burner to preheat the stove prior to lighting. I've never poured it at the base like you did. Perhaps your method is correct & may work better.
The key molten lava hot? There's good reason why its removable. :) Ps I see your alcohol gel is blue and leaves a residue? Here in... Switzerland we have both blue and clear (fondue time!) Clear leaves no traces. Im sure you have it there (as fuel for indoor alcohol fireplaces ?) Cheers
got one, with all the bits that go with it, good stuff, but the stove, its ok, "BUT", it gets very very hot, to hot for my liking, petrol, only good for making tea or coffee, then turn off, will try it on kerosene, the 3 legs can be pulled up 1/2" high and low cooking :)
Like others have noted, this doesn't appear to have a pressure relief valve. I'll stick with my Svea 123r or my other old, but equally reliable, stove, the Optimus 8r. I own several backpacking stoves, but I always return to one of the two aforementioned stoves. Thanks for the video.
Hello, I have a question, if possible, what material is used inside the stove? Is it the gasoline used in the car, or is it another type, and is it safe? Sorry, excuse me, my English is not good. I'm sorry. I hope you will answer my question.
Safety valve is basically important. Especially if you are using dirty fuel instead of white gas. I have seen that valve in action on the Juwel 84! The Juwel 34/84 is the German equivalent to the Svea.
White gas is more volitile and explosive than gasoline as gas has additives to slow the explosive nature of gas to prevent detonation known colloquially as octane boosters which white gas does not have. Kerosene and diesel wont light if you throw a match in the liquid fuel they need to really heat up to burn properly
do u think u can also use ethanol or simply alcohol in this stove instead of gasoline???? gasoline smells , bio ethanol or alcohol has no smell and can be used indoors
I have one. I will not insert the key when it lit. It will make it too hot to touch. When I need to adjust the output, then I will insert the key. I can adjust the flame from full to simmer level. The main drawback is ,there is no SRV on the tank cap.
Love the channel Ernie! Keep up the great work. Quick off topic question. Do you know of any french presses that fit the Stryker 200 (jetboil style) I know msr makes some that fit their similar style pot
OK - I’ve used unleaded gas in all of my coleman white gas lanterns and stoves for decades. Before unleaded was common, I used plain old (leaded) gasoline. - I don’t think it’s any more dangerous than white gas. What do you base that statement on?
In my experience naptha (white gas) burns cleaner, less soot than reg. gas with slightly less vapor pressure, i.e., output. Using leaded gas (years ago) i had to unscrew the 123R nipple and swab out the inside every 3 or 4 uses. Kerosene or diesel won't work period.
What is white gas? I'm not sure it's readily available here. Sure you /can/ get Coleman fuel but it's very expensive. Wonder if kerosene (heater fuel) or ethanol can be used instead?
Ernie , I am a little bit disapointed , once you lite a svea type stove ,ajust the flame for cooking, pull the key, and then when finished , replace it! Ive had an optmus eagle 1000 for over 40 years and it has a narrow tapered al. wind screen, which is very fragile. Common sense pervails always ! I also disagree that reg. unleaded is more dangerous than clear naptha, unless maybe, you use the expensive coleman red colored anti- rust formula. Ive had cole two burner stoves for 50 years, and just like people in far northen climes have used gasoline no problems! Yes it is dirtier , so clean up more . Cheers and keep up the great vids. B.C. Canada.
The Svea 123 is a classic and this stove looks like an interesting take, but if you're willing to carry that kinda weight, why not a Coleman 533? It has fantastic flame control and no priming. It's ready to go almost instantly. You can carry spare pump parts if reliability is a concern. Generators are like $10 bucks and take 5 minutes to change. I've only done it once and I've burned tons of gasoline. I *adore* mine and it's never let me down. I've got a ton of stoves including a Soto Stormbreaker and MSR XGK-EX, but I always end up back at the 533.
Is the Coleman easier to actually cook with than the MSR XGK? Never used any of these but from the looks of it the Coleman would be significantly easier than multituel stoves like msr or the primus multifuel
@@ryaniam22 yep, it really is. The flame control is outstanding and the flame pattern is much better. Much cleaner, faster priming as well. Having said that, the 533 only burns white gas and gasoline, where the XGK burns basically any petroleum distillate. The XGK can support much more weight and can be windscreened. Multiple fuel bottles means redundancy and less chance of a spill in the field. Definitely more appropriate for mountaineering and extreme cold environments where your life depends on it and you're not sure what fuel might be available. I take my 533 car and canoe camping, and in the winter below the treeline when using a sled (or establishing a large basecamp). I take my XGK everywhere else in the winter.
SVEA any time. Also, the lack of a Pressure Relief Safety Valve on the Lixada Tank Filler Cap is questionable. Heat .. I think that the Thermal Properties of Brass are a factor in the SVEA being 'cooler' than the Stainless Steel Copy. 'Dangerous Fuel'. Anything that burns can be hazardous .. some more then others. Provided one uses the RFM Function (regarding the SVEA .. I don't have a Lixada) and exercises Basic Common Sense, Liquid Fuel Stoves pose an acceptable Risk when used within their Design Intent. 'Safer' stoves could tend to lull some users into a false sense of security and perhaps end up doing something silly. The SVEA .. with its Flame and Roar .. one is always 'aware' 😊.
At first I thought that a ss version might have advantages. But ccp cost cutting factors cancel out pretty much. I’m not an alpinist(although I do own an original Swedish made one) by any stretch, so what do mountaineers use at altitude, SVEA or butane mix canister stoves?
I would not buy a copycat stove made in China. The risk of a poor quality pressurized gas stove is too great. Many years ago, I bought a copycat SVEA 123 made in Taiwan. It worked for a while, then one day, the whole thing caught on fire and exploded in a huge ball of gas flame. Is a copycat stove made in China better than a copycat stove made in Taiwan? You can be the judge of that, but I will be staying away from made in China and made in Taiwan pressurized gas stoves.
Optimus did one with a tin box as well instead of having the wind shield but the box is to be used as the pot stand and they're mostly rusted out/burnt to hell
In my experience the only danger when lighting a stove like this is the danger that the operator creates. The versatility and ability to function in extreme cold as well as the simple design makes this style of stove (as well as the Russian PT-1) very attractive.
The Svea and all similar stoves uses unleaded gasoline I have used it in my Optimus for a million years To convert a gasoline stove to kerosene you need to change the pin hole And the simmer is superb on the Svea
I've used unleaded in my coleman 502. I think it does simmer much better then my svea123r. I do need to do some valve adjusting on my svea though. With which fuel do you think the svea simmers best?
I won’t use gasoline in this stove, it heated up the tank something terrible ,gasoline is more combustible and would explode (a bomb ) and there is no p r v built in to it .
Unleaded gas Is white gas. Back in the 60s and 70s, Amaco's high test gas, which was lead free was called white gas, because it was clearer than leaded gas.
The key is removable for use. As soon as you set the stove at the desired temperature. You are supposed to remove the key so that you do not burn yourself. You could always replace the key when you are making an adjustment and or turning it off but always pull the key out of the stove while in use so it does not get too hot and you don't need gloves. I wouldn't worry at all about putting gasoline into the stove opposed to white gas. The main difference between the two is that gasoline has fuel additives to clean the engine as well as octane to keep it from combusting at high-pressure. White gas is the same fuel without the octane and fuel additives to clean the motor but does have a rusted inhibitor added to the fuel. The big difference that you will find between the two fuels is that gasoline does burn a little more soot. Love your vid's keep it up.
Agree William. In the common vernacular, white gas means 'pure gasoline without the additives.' But who knows what that actually means to a chemical engineer. I do know it's not a singular 'pure anything' but a cocktail of various light petroleum distillates. Regardless, it should burn cleaner than unleaded - not necessarily safer.
Yeah, that key gets HOT!!! I've burnt my fingers on mine!
One thing I really appreciate about your channel (apart from the excellent reviews) is the minimal intro (unlike some others that seem to have half the content taken up with random photos, unassociated video and awful choice of music). Cheers and looking forward to more 👍🇦🇺
I loved my Svea 123 for three decades, regardless of how starting is fiddly and you have to be careful not to tip your pot. Used to get fuel into the pre-heating cup by holding a flame under the stove. Later, someone developed a small pump that could be fitted to the filler hole. In those old days, there was no such thing as fire paste. Ahhh, nostalgia. Fuel funnels. Burner cleaning pic. Learning to be careful. Happy nostalgia.
Svea 123R also made in China is the only stove I got rid of because it didn't ever work properly - not impressed by the quality. I bought a Juwel 34 instead 60 years old and works beautifully. Use a bit of carbon mat in the well is a good option. One thing that is not the same is it has no safety valve and in a stove that works by heating itself up - I think not! Nice review BTW!!
The SVEA is like and old classic car that still runs great. The brass is more beautiful than the stainless. I will stick with my SVEA. Thanks for the video Dr. Ernie.
I love that non toxic gel! Awesome! Another thing you can do is put carbon felt in where you warm up the interior so the residue does not permanently stick to your stove.
Yes..I have a 1955 123.
Remove key. And show the feature of rotating pot supports for larger pots like the one used in your demo.
Longtime follower. Keep them coming!
Nice review. I love the Svea 123 and will stick with that as a winter bombproof stove. The Svea is both beautiful and reliable. So, my favorite gas stove is the Svea 123, favorite wood stove, Firebox five inchTitanium, favorite alcohol stove, click stand which is oh so stable.
I bought my SVEA 123 in 1974 at the original REI store in Seattle, it was an expensive purchase for a junior in high school. I am still using it to this day, so, when you figure that over 48 years of use and the beautiful patina it's acquired along the way, it was probably pretty cheap purchase after all! LoL!! I inherited my Dad's SVEA 123, which still runs, it's in need of a tune-up and rebuild, it is probably a late 1960's version. Tried out the butane burner stoves, but always returned to my simple, dependable, safe, noisy, little SVEA 123.
*** If I remember correctly, the SVEA 123 and Optimus 80 could also be run on Denatured Alcohol in a pinch, (I've always used white gas.) I remember Optimus did make a Denatured Alcohol stove which was much larger than the SVEA 123 or Optimus 80, just never had any experience with one. ***
Butane is too easy..svea that chu chug sound is very satisfying.
My mom who is 71 now still has her SVEA (we're from Denmark) from when she was young and as someone here mentions, you're not supposed to have the key in all the time, especially not while priming the stove.
I ordered one about a week ago. I have 9 svea 123 stoves some pack cook some r versions and a 8r . Plus 3 colman 425s 3 colman 502s a m1950 more alcohol stoves than I want to admit to some isobutaine stoves. 2 peak 550s. Also 3 400a's a colman 508 a 533 and a Indian made premis kerosene clone. So I would say yes I am a stovey. I'm hooked on stoves and I am very glad to see your post on both the 123r and the new lixada clone. Looking forwarding to mine showing up. This video will make finding one harder on those that want one. I like the shine of the stainless.
I also spend to much time polishing the brass on my stoves and hate the residue from hand sanitizers so I either use stove Gas or denatured alcohol to prime with. Sometime I usea pump to get just a little pressure to fill the prime cup with fuel to start it off. Some times I just uses a bit of a drinking straw with a finger over the end. So many ways to light one of theses. All said my 123's are my favorites whether the be the pack cook clones or the real ones they just work and are fun to use and I find nothing disagreeable with the sound in fact that is how I adjust them in bright sun is by sound. You can't see the flame when trying to simmer rice but you can listen to them so no silent burner for me.
Sweet! Just thinking a s/s version would be an addition to have. Lol
The major difference is the lack of relief valve on the fuel tank.
Shoulda bought a soto muka, I kid, I kid.
@@Max_Marz Soto Muka is a bad choice. Bought one and regretted it. Not good
Another subtle difference is being able to reach the fuel cap without having to remove the windscreen. Less fuss when using a straw to dip a little fuel to prime it.
Nice review. I think I'll stick with my Svea. I do have one question though - why the reluctance to use petrol/gasoline? Personally, I've used gasoline in every one of my 'Coleman fuel' stoves over the past 3 decades including many that weren't 'rated for it' like the original MSR, Peak1, Coleman 2-burner and Svea 123r. 'White gas aka Coleman fuel' is not Naphtha which is basically zippo/charcoal lighter fluid and much less volatile. In use, Coleman fuel behaves like gasoline - I don't 'feel' much difference. Technically, they have very similar properties with gasoline a superior cold weather fuel with a flash point of -45F compared to Coleman fuel's +25F. Yet, the autoignition temp for gasoline is higher than Coleman fuel at 536F vs 419F (credit wikipedia). Seems like a win-win for gasoline. The primary downside to gasoline is all the additives which theoretically clog jets faster, although IME that is an infrequent occurrence and easy field fix. Other possible downside, I suspect the ethanol blends can deteriorate gaskets faster. To this end, I keep a few jerry cans of ethanol-free fuel on my farm to fuel small engines, camp stoves and the like. I love the convenience and redundancy of having a stove that runs off the same fuel as my truck or motorcycle. With the latter, I can refuel my Svea right off the petcock! Those are my thoughts and experiences. If anyone knows for a fact different please let me know. (I don't want to blow up any more than the next guy...)
A head to head with svea would be awesome
A Svea clone without a pressure relief valve? I guess it could take your nature experience to a new explosive level! Nooo thanks! :D Great review (as always!), thank you @paleohikermd. Love this channel - it is clear that you've worked hard creating top quality content for gear and stove junkies - really appreciate it! Keep up the good work. Greetings from Norway. :)
SHIT I didn't notice that....There's gonna be one of these up on ebay pretty soon if anybody is interested 😂
Svea is the Queen all days of the week... Thank you for another great review and greetings from Sweden!
The SEVA 123 stove was very popular with the Boy Scouts when I was a assistant scoutmaster back in the 80's. You get three or four of these going and you cant talk, they do make a lot of noise. Never had one myself. Had a Peak 1, which I still have. Now how ever I use a Trangia set up. No moving parts and very quiet.
On my Svea, I added a couple of small pieces of wood to the priming cup. It moderated the flame, and extended the life of the flame.
Courtesy of Half Vast Flying
White gas is equally explosive as gasoline. The difference is, white gas is clean without the additives found in gasoline.
As far as gasoline vs white gas explosiveness. They're nearly identical substances. Pump gas just has some additives in it more attuned to car engines is all. So they're both just as explosive and "dangerous". I think you might be cofused with kerosene?
the pot stand arms rotate outward for more stability, you can buy an after market cap and pump for the sea 123. No priming needed
I have 2 123s... I prefer them to the 123r!
123s...have you the link..
Unleaded Gasoline isn't that bad. I've used it exclusively in a Colman stove for 30 years. But yes, take a little extra precaution.
My SVEA 123 is my favorite stove ever
and still working perfectly ever since.
I picked up a SS lixada clone on clearance at Walmart for $37. Great to have options in your preps.
I have similar feelings about my Optimus R8, which is simplicity itself and pretty much bomb proof!
Will the svea 123r use kerosene too.? Thanks for the info.!!
No
I wrapped valve stem area with small piece of carbon felt to absorb alcohol. Works great on my ole SVEA.
Im intrigued! The price alone... When I checked out the 123 thingy I got a little sticker shock. The key getting hot isn't an issue for me though. It's removable so just set the heat and let it hang from the chain until you need to adjust the flame. I would love to play with one myself but I don't know that many people in Livingston Parish that are into camp stoves. Although I'm trying to convince more people after hurricane Ida and the lack of power. Even the boil order on water after it was restored made my few stoves invaluable. Actually!!!! Video idea? Home storm gear? I got ideas I would love to share through you if you're interested. 😎
Thanks for the interesting video. I have both 123 and 123R and find the earlier 123 has better flame control so my 123Rs see less use.
Svea123 is made in Taiwan, very nice quality, I have one in use and its great
Uncle Google Says: "Benzine is another name for naphtha in the US, though the term is rarely used in this manner anymore. It's also a common name for gasoline in England. Naphtha (benzine) is a faster evaporating, less oily (“drier”) form of mineral spirits. It's not dangerous if used in moderation."
Basically white gas is just Gasoline without additives that has been 'purified to the max'
So i picked one of these up and love it but noticed that the base gets quite hot when in use. How do you keep it from damaging whatever surface you place it on? (Wood tables, plastic tables etc.)
The first thing I noticed was there is no pressure relief valve on the fuel cap.
I believe, I too would prefer the real deal. Thanks for the review.
I've been wondering about this stove ! I don't have one like this but I have been shopping around . The one thing I have noticed about this one is it dont sputter like all the others I've seen . Great video as usual Ernie! Take care and stay safe my friend !
Two things you can use in the primer cup..
Welders felt or fine steel wool.. Wrap it around the stem and tie it with a thin piece of wire then push it don into the primer cup.. squeeze a little alcohol on the material and light it up.
That priming is why i like the coleman style you pump
you can but an after market cap and pump for the sea 123. No priming needed
"Key get's hot", well remove key same as you would with the Svea. Good vid, keep em coming.
You should pick up an Optimus 8R - very similar to the 123R, but be warned, you can get addicted to collecting these
I agree, it is very addictive!!
It has no presure valve in the fuelcap (!) Svea 123 and 123R do have this valve. Much safer in my opinion. I would stick with the Svea.
Agreed. Especially with Ernie saying that got a lot hotter than the brass version. As someone who has accidentally caused that patented Svea fireball I'm all too aware that this is one tired, careless simmer away from a pipebomb in the woods.
My thoughts exactly. To me, the Lixada without the safety valve built in the cap could end up like a pressure bomb ....
My original svea just had a fixed cap on the fuel reservoir. I replaced it with what I think you are calling a pressure relief valves cap, but not as a safety measure. It was so a small pressuring pump could be used to speed up the lighting process.
@@rmpruitt228 That is what exactly it was intended to be used for;
@@rmpruitt228 An overpressure valve is also integrated in this access for a pump. There is the closure with only overpressure valve and the one with pump connection + integrated valve.
I have been using a new Lixada wood burning stove that has just come on the market. It's on Amazon for $17. It is a 4 sided S/S pyramid design. Kinda big for backpacking and heavy but it sure works. it's another notch to carve in your stove testing files.
Svea has a pressure relief valve built into the fuel cap.
The Lixada doesn't.
Seems to make it more dangerous as its operating temperature is higher than the Svea,
That non vented gas cap scares me, I wonder if they did have some blow up since you cannot find them listed for sale anywhere
Seva or Lexus’s you are not supposed to leave the valve key on when running the stove.
I also notice it doesn’t have a pressure relief valve.
My svea 123 and modified 123r, have awesome flame control. I can run it from simmer to high to nuke it. I can preheat them both with no fuel, maybe not at subzero. But i havent tested that yet.
Bought an Optimus 8R about 50 years ago. It's still ticking and I take it out every now and then and have fun using it. It likewise is not an ultralight option but it works in the winter as well as the summer.
Yep I've had mine that long as well, during a time of extreme poverty it cooked all my meals for a year and a half. One of my prized posessions
I purchased one of these last in 2021 this time last year, the only thing that worries me is the filler cap, as there is no pressure release pip on the cap, and the Svea 123 cap is a different size, so it is a question of getting one made to fit it.
The easiest thing would probably be to do the old wire relief calve that the old Primus 71 stoves had.
@@Thereal111t Yes, but the thread is different to the Svea or Optimus stoves, can you tell me where I might be able to get a cap with the pressure release pippet in the cap??
@@charlietango1635 the old Primus 71 used a different safety method. A hole was drilled straight through the tank from top to bottom. A steel wire was then soldered in place in the top and bottom filling the holes. This way, if the tank were to over pressure and deform, the wire would pull through one of the holes. If you google photos of Primus 71 stoves, you’ll eventually find some that show a solid cap and a small bump somewhere on top of the tank. This method worked with brass tanks. I’m not sure it would work with the stainless tank.
Thanks for sharing Ernie! I've been wondering about this one for a while.
Great video as always, SVEA is an easy stove to work on and will last a lifetime. The Lixada is just a cheap stove and it shows. SVEAs are not cheap and the ones on EBay almost always need rebuilt. The rebuild kits are easy to find but the penta-tool to rebuild the valve is a little tricky to find. Old school stoves are fun to rebuild and I am glad you are taking an interest in them.
Does the standard 123R repair kit fit the lixada?
Another great video, thank you. Too bad I can't find this anywhere, would love to pick one up. Anyone know who's selling them? In the U.S..
As far as I could see, the Lixada lacks the over pressure safety valve that the SVEA has on the cap. Could this stove rupture if it got too hot?.................
I tried using the lixada on a heavy rain storm. The ground is muddy and cold. The lixafa stove performed flawless. I noticed the container is very cool to touch while using it because the heat is absorbed by the muddy groumd with water. It did not affect the performance.
I wouldn’t use that stove just for the lack of the vent on the fill cap. Overheat that stove and it’s a bomb ready go off in your face. One important thing is that on the Svea or Lixada, you should never use a stand alone wind screen with them. These stoves are famous for overheat with a separate winds screen. Be safe and have fun.
I've used a windscreen for years, with my Svea and never had a problem. Just keep the front open and don't wrap the stove in it. There will be some heat loss this way and it won't blow up. BTW the pressure created supplies the fuel to the burner, so in reality you are always losing pressure.
Which is why i only use mine for quick tasks---- making coffee or steaming veggies. And you can tell when the flame's too high or loud, shut it the hell down.
I use a Wind Screen when necessary .. just keep it 'open' that heat is not trapped around the stove.
But yes, these stoves do not like to be enclosed .. they tend to lose their cool.
Doc, I love your stove addiction.
You're supposed to take the key off of the stoves when it's running so it does not get hot
I have a Svea-123 & an Optimus -R. Both from my college days in the early 1980's. While these will operate with Kerosene, Coleman Fuel (naptha), Diesel, Unleaded Gasoline & Denatured Alcohol ( methyl hydrate) I find the gasoline & alcohol to work best. There tends to be more maintaining & cleaning with kerosene, Coleman fuel & diesel. The Coleman fuel actually works the worst & sometimes won't even light the stoves. I know people tend to be afraid of gasoline but it's pretty much no more dangerous than the other fuels. They are all highly combustible.
On another note: I always remove the key when cooking. It doesn't get hot that way. It's easy enough to reinsert for flame control & that's why it's attached to a chain; so you don't lose it. Cheers from Canada.
*Edit: Almost forgot. The instructions with my old stoves say to pour a bit of alcohol in the shallow cup in the centre on the top of the burner to preheat the stove prior to lighting. I've never poured it at the base like you did. Perhaps your method is correct & may work better.
The key molten lava hot?
There's good reason why its removable. :)
Ps
I see your alcohol gel is blue and leaves a residue? Here in... Switzerland we have both blue and clear (fondue time!)
Clear leaves no traces. Im sure you have it there (as fuel for indoor alcohol fireplaces ?) Cheers
got one, with all the bits that go with it, good stuff, but the stove, its ok, "BUT", it gets very very hot, to hot for my liking, petrol, only good for making tea or coffee, then turn off, will try it on kerosene, the 3 legs can be pulled up 1/2" high and low cooking :)
You can use denatured alcohol and yellow bottle heat with this svea stove. No soot.
Like others have noted, this doesn't appear to have a pressure relief valve. I'll stick with my Svea 123r or my other old, but equally reliable, stove, the Optimus 8r. I own several backpacking stoves, but I always return to one of the two aforementioned stoves. Thanks for the video.
Hello, I have a question, if possible, what material is used inside the stove? Is it the gasoline used in the car, or is it another type, and is it safe? Sorry, excuse me, my English is not good. I'm sorry. I hope you will answer my question.
I wonder if a Svea fuel cap with the relief valve would fit?
thank you for your reviewing
Aren’t you supposed to just open the valve before lighting so fuel spills into the tray, then shut it off and light to pre-heat that way?
That is one way to do it, I just don't like all the soot
Does it have a safety valve?
Safety valve is basically important. Especially if you are using dirty fuel instead of white gas. I have seen that valve in action on the Juwel 84! The Juwel 34/84 is the German equivalent to the Svea.
White gas is more volitile and explosive than gasoline as gas has additives to slow the explosive nature of gas to prevent detonation known colloquially as octane boosters which white gas does not have.
Kerosene and diesel wont light if you throw a match in the liquid fuel they need to really heat up to burn properly
I’ll keep my vintage SVEA 123 and 123R.
Just an observation but can't you just remove the key once its set where you want it? Reinstall when you need it
Yes......at least that is what the instructions tell you, to do. I believe Dr. Ernie said too.
I'd love a stainless steel svea 123r, that would be fantastic
do u think u can also use ethanol or simply alcohol in this stove instead of gasoline???? gasoline smells , bio ethanol or alcohol has no smell and can be used indoors
Ótimo vídeo Parabéns 👍
I have one. I will not insert the key when it lit. It will make it too hot to touch. When I need to adjust the output, then I will insert the key. I can adjust the flame from full to simmer level. The main drawback is ,there is no SRV on the tank cap.
Hi, the stove works with diesel?
@@ismaelcortesmaiiohikingcamping No
Love the channel Ernie! Keep up the great work. Quick off topic question. Do you know of any french presses that fit the Stryker 200 (jetboil style) I know msr makes some that fit their similar style pot
OK - I’ve used unleaded gas in all of my coleman white gas lanterns and stoves for decades. Before unleaded was common, I used plain old (leaded) gasoline. - I don’t think it’s any more dangerous than white gas. What do you base that statement on?
In my experience naptha (white gas) burns cleaner, less soot than reg. gas with slightly less vapor pressure, i.e., output. Using leaded gas (years ago) i had to unscrew the 123R nipple and swab out the inside every 3 or 4 uses. Kerosene or diesel won't work period.
What is white gas? I'm not sure it's readily available here. Sure you /can/ get Coleman fuel but it's very expensive. Wonder if kerosene (heater fuel) or ethanol can be used instead?
Ernie , I am a little bit disapointed , once you lite a svea type stove ,ajust the flame for cooking, pull the key, and then when finished , replace it! Ive had an optmus eagle 1000 for over 40 years and it has a narrow tapered al. wind screen, which is very fragile. Common sense pervails always ! I also disagree that reg. unleaded is more dangerous than clear naptha, unless maybe, you use the expensive coleman red colored anti- rust formula. Ive had cole two burner stoves for 50 years, and just like people in far northen climes have used gasoline no problems! Yes it is dirtier , so clean up more . Cheers and keep up the great vids. B.C. Canada.
The Svea 123 is a classic and this stove looks like an interesting take, but if you're willing to carry that kinda weight, why not a Coleman 533?
It has fantastic flame control and no priming. It's ready to go almost instantly. You can carry spare pump parts if reliability is a concern. Generators are like $10 bucks and take 5 minutes to change. I've only done it once and I've burned tons of gasoline. I *adore* mine and it's never let me down.
I've got a ton of stoves including a Soto Stormbreaker and MSR XGK-EX, but I always end up back at the 533.
The 533 is my go-to winter stove. I've had mine for 22 years, still going strong.
Is the Coleman easier to actually cook with than the MSR XGK? Never used any of these but from the looks of it the Coleman would be significantly easier than multituel stoves like msr or the primus multifuel
@@ryaniam22 yep, it really is. The flame control is outstanding and the flame pattern is much better. Much cleaner, faster priming as well.
Having said that, the 533 only burns white gas and gasoline, where the XGK burns basically any petroleum distillate. The XGK can support much more weight and can be windscreened. Multiple fuel bottles means redundancy and less chance of a spill in the field. Definitely more appropriate for mountaineering and extreme cold environments where your life depends on it and you're not sure what fuel might be available.
I take my 533 car and canoe camping, and in the winter below the treeline when using a sled (or establishing a large basecamp). I take my XGK everywhere else in the winter.
Do I see this correctly that it doesn't have a pressure relief valve for safety? That would be a total no-go for me.
SVEA any time. Also, the lack of a Pressure Relief Safety Valve on the Lixada Tank Filler Cap is questionable.
Heat .. I think that the Thermal Properties of Brass are a factor in the SVEA being 'cooler' than the Stainless Steel Copy.
'Dangerous Fuel'. Anything that burns can be hazardous .. some more then others. Provided one uses the RFM Function (regarding the SVEA .. I don't have a Lixada) and exercises Basic Common Sense, Liquid Fuel Stoves pose an acceptable Risk when used within their Design Intent. 'Safer' stoves could tend to lull some users into a false sense of security and perhaps end up doing something silly. The SVEA .. with its Flame and Roar .. one is always 'aware' 😊.
Any other fuel can be used if I don’t have white gas?
Car gasoline! Did it for many years!
Thanks.
white gas is super filtered gasoline bro. no more or less combustible is one than the other. nice stove
what a great review ..
I have a question. Will stoves like this one. Work with denatured alcohol
At first I thought that a ss version might have advantages. But ccp cost cutting factors cancel out pretty much.
I’m not an alpinist(although I do own an original Swedish made one) by any stretch, so what do mountaineers use at altitude, SVEA or butane mix canister stoves?
£70 on Amazon! I’d rather pay another £30 and get a SVEA……we’ll actually I have a SVEA!🤣😂😂
*I don't know who needs to hear this but stop saving all your money, invest some of it if you really want financial freedom....*
Investing in crypto is the best way to earn financial freedom
Zero doubt crypto is so money making investment
This is the kind of information that we don’t get from most youtubers.. .
I could invest in Crypto but always got confused by it’s volatility in nature
@@fedrickwillard6490 That won't bother you if you trade with a professional like Mr Michael Wayne
No pressure relief valve on the fuel cap…
I would not buy a copycat stove made in China. The risk of a poor quality pressurized gas stove is too great. Many years ago, I bought a copycat SVEA 123 made in Taiwan. It worked for a while, then one day, the whole thing caught on fire and exploded in a huge ball of gas flame. Is a copycat stove made in China better than a copycat stove made in Taiwan? You can be the judge of that, but I will be staying away from made in China and made in Taiwan pressurized gas stoves.
not now avabile from amazon, ideas on other places can order from ?
Erny look for the Primus 71 they're so much cheaper I've seen them sell for as little as £20 (needing some TLC) and they're the same as the 123's
Optimus did one with a tin box as well instead of having the wind shield but the box is to be used as the pot stand and they're mostly rusted out/burnt to hell
There is no pressure release valve like the SVEA...
Where can we buy that Shea clone by lixada
In my experience the only danger when lighting a stove like this is the danger that the operator creates. The versatility and ability to function in extreme cold as well as the simple design makes this style of stove (as well as the Russian PT-1) very attractive.
The Svea and all similar stoves uses unleaded gasoline
I have used it in my Optimus for a million years
To convert a gasoline stove to kerosene you need to change the pin hole
And the simmer is superb on the Svea
I've used unleaded in my coleman 502. I think it does simmer much better then my svea123r. I do need to do some valve adjusting on my svea though. With which fuel do you think the svea simmers best?
I won’t use gasoline in this stove, it heated up the tank something terrible ,gasoline is more combustible and would explode (a bomb ) and there is no p r v built in to it .
Unleaded gas Is white gas. Back in the 60s and 70s, Amaco's high test gas, which was lead free was called white gas, because it was clearer than leaded gas.
Wish you would do a comparison of Svea n Jetboil. 🤓
Where do we but this stove
Key should only be on the stove when you are actually making adjustments.
Onde comprou, é sueco?