Powder coating cast bullets the fastest way
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 18 окт 2024
- See the updated method here:
• Powder coating cast bu...
Myth busting time!
Powder coating takes too long! BUSTED!
Powder coating is messy! BUSTED!
Powder coating is hard! BUSTED!
500 boolits coated and sized.
Apply coat: 5 minutes
Bake: 12 minutes (you can do other stuff meanwhile)
Size: 15 minutes.
Excellent no nonsense guide. Pre-heating the bullets and sifting the excess powder off in stages are your tips that helped me most. Thanks!
Yup me too . That’s probably why mine always came out rather thinly coated 👍🏻
Brilliant! Been casting for 44 years, you have changed the way I think about powder coating lead bullets.
I am an old caster. I started powder coating 5 years ago, it's just awesome. No more pan lubing, no more smoke, you can push regular scrap lead as fast as you want, no leading, clean forcing cones and 1 minute clean up with just a bore snake. Highly recommended.
@@hardball107 I’ve been making moderate loads like 2.8 grain bullseye for .380 and 3.1-3.5 bullseye for 38 SPC with 102 grain RN pure lead from scrap. Even with the crappy coating I’ve gotten using HF Yellow ( red at HF is no longer😾 available) it’s all still on there after they are salvaged. Even the bottom of the rifling indents is solid yellow and never a trace of leading.
@@drizler And the good thing is your doing it for around $.05 a round if your using pre shortage primers.
@@hardball107 Runnings is still selling them for nothing grossly inflated for l. Trouble is hitting them when they’re in. Then there’s the limit to a couple hundred 😡. Some sporting places are the same and some are highway robbery. I just check whenever I’m in town and buy when I can. It’s probably a good time to start saving used ones though as they are reusable even though it’s a PITA.
You upped my game in just a few minutes.
Thank you.
Glad to help! Check out my updated video on the silicone spray method. Makes ANY powder stick instantly! :)
iv been casting lee 230g .308 bullets for 2 years. now im on to powdercoating. thanks for the video.
Well done and appreciate the time you put in to show us. I used your method with exception of replaced the silicone sheet with 1/4 hardware cloth homemade tray, worked great ! Many thanks
Thank you! Please watch my new(er) video with the silicone spray method, it works wonders!
Thanks for demystifying the process.
Been watching videos on this . I am so sick of lubing them. Your way looks easy and never saw anyone else dump them in water. It makes so much sense. Noy
Thanks for publishing this. I was overthinking the whole process, so now I need to get to coating. I think it'll be a success.
good video , straight to the point and easy. I think people wast to much time powder coating trying to get them perfect like they are painting a car.
Some people are just like that.Me being one of them. Im not affecting you,why you judging me?
I tried this method once and ended up with one large lump of powdercoated bullet only good enough for the melting pot. I gotta try it again using less heat and a water bucket! Good video.
Thanks for the video from across the pond.
fantastic tips with the silicone sheet and dump into a bucket of water those are even better than I have been doing...subbed
MP molds are awesome!
the Lee sizer is great when mounted upside down.
Quick!
Drop into a bucket etc.
Would like to try this, but would require some interesting mounting.
@@Soulman-lb3gg It really doesn't save that much time. The one to build is Jmorris' auto bullet sizer. Especially with a bullet feed, but manually feeding the tube isn't bad. The motor can outrun you.
Running that sizing press mounted upside down makes it really easy to just drop the bullets in those first and press them out around 25 a minute.
Oh that is awesome. Water dunking is now apart of my proceedure. Thanks
Thank you for the video, I will try that water dump, that was great how they were all loose when you reached into the bucket. I am guilty of being one of the stand them up guys. I am a man, I can change, if I have to.......
I’m glad that I watched it, too. Meh -- I think I’ll stay with lubrisizing (now that I’ve solved all its problems.)
I evolved a similar quick and easy method. I use the same rotary tumbler that I use to clean brass with stainless pins and soapy water to tumble coat the bullets. The powder is beaten into the lead surface after 15 minutes of tumbling. No bullet preheating required and no manual shaking. I measure the powder so there is no excess powder to sift. I use Reynold's Non-Stick aluminum foil instead of the silicone baking sheet you use. It's amazing stuff. It repels molten powder coat so there is almost no line on the bullet shank that's in contact with the baking sheet. I only fill the trays about half full of bullets, compared to a single layer of bullets, to minimize bullets touching each other and sticking together, although I must say your water quench method is ingenious!
Hi, Every time I try this method bullets get stick together, taking chunks off from powder coating. Can you think of a reason why this happens?
As I mentioned in my post, for me, the tricks were: 1) Reynolds Non-Stick Aluminum Foil. It seems to repel molten powder coat so it sticks to the bullet shanks rather than making flat spots where the bullets contact the baking sheet. 2) Don't pile bullets on top of each other. In fact, don't have a densely packed single layer either as the bullets will touch each other and stick together when they bake. I dump half as many as would fill the pan in a single layer and shake them to separate them before baking. I try to avoid two adjacent shanks resting against each other to form a line. I spend less than a minute separating bullets before baking an 11" X 17" sheet. The noses or bases of bullets can touch at a point, and that will only make a small powder coating defect. My bullets break apart easily at these points, and while I can see a minor divot in the powder coating, in almost every case, there is still powder coat fully covering each bullet. I don't seem to get one bullet pulling a chip of powder coat off an adjacent bullet to leave exposed lead, but again, that's probably because the contact surface is very small and the force needed to break the bullets apart is very small. I also use a good quality powder coat (Eastwood lately, some pro grade stuff before that, and never Harbor Freight).
If you want no powder coating defects, tumble coat the bullets and then stand each one on its base before baking so none of them touch. It's a lot more time and hassle, but still doable if you're fussy and want the nicest possible coating. Lately, I get almost as good results with almost no effort. Like the Garden Weasel, it's half the effort and twice as quick.
I haven't dumped powder coated bullets in water, but after this video, I might! It seems like a bit of hassle to dry the bullets afterward that may not be worth it to me. I have good results with a sparsely loaded baking sheet and the non-stick aluminum foil. The water quench seems to allow more bullets in a batch. That would have been a big help when I was using a small toaster oven, but now I'm using a full sized convection oven, and a half full 11" X 17" pan is still a lot of bullets. It's all I want to tumble at once, maybe five pounds, so I can have a batch tumbling while a batch is baking and can powder coat a LOT of bullets in an hour, and most of that is time when I'm off doing other things. The actual labor to tumble and bake three batches of bullets is just a few minutes out of that hour.
Thanks, best single instruction I've seen. Mark R.
genius u are"
great vid.
great channel "
great instruction "
great instructor "
Thank u friend !"
Nicely done Jonas. Thank you.
like the water quenching---will be trying this for sure--Thank You
Excellent video.
actually the machine is doing the casting.we lube size by hand, but the average is @ 1 second per size/lubed boolit so it's not too bad.we usually do a run of 1300 at a time and it takes about 25 minutes because we have to add another stick of home made lube to the sizing machine.the water drop trick is one I think we will try if we do this, so your video is still a help.
Just getting into powder coating, thanks. Subbed
Would powder coated buckets be safe in a Glock pistol?
Absolutely. It is a polymer jacket, there will be no lead exposed to the bore.
Can I use wd40 dry lube to coat after the water bath? Or would that foul up my powder charge? What is the Lee press deal you're using to send and size the bullets into the hopper? I totally need one of them for my 45 acp and 3030 ammo...thank you for posting this video and made it straight forward and easy to understand the process now my girlfriend is profile I'm using to watch this video can rest easy and know that I'm not going to get lead poisoning
nice ticks here and there, thanks for sharing
What are you doing to the poor bucket lol.. just kidding man. Thanks for the video!
You know when they say you should not shoot other people’s reloads. He is the reason why
Well, first off, in my country handing your reloads to someone else is illegal, so that will not be a problem.
But as to the comment itself, would you care to explain it? I compete in the national team and shoot five days a week. I take it your comment is meant to be some sort of insult on my capabilities on reloading...
Who says that? Sources? No? Then shut up.
Who says that? Sources? No? Then shut up.
Doug Skucas I mean if you shoot guns everyone says that lmao
Not only gets them apart it also makes the lead a little harder.
What brand/ color is that you are using? Looks great.
Excellent! Thank you so much!
I love your style. Thanks bro. I will subscribe. God bless you
❤❤❤❤ greetings from Poland
This is the first video I've seen where someone has pulled the bullets out of the oven and dropped them in water. Is the water used to quench the bullets so they become harder and/or so the bullets separate more easily from each other and the pan incase they stuck together a little bit during the baking process?
very interesting, i am working on an art project and would like to ask you if powder coating would work for used casings? some are brass and some are steel. Your reply would be appreciated, or anyones reply.
TOP ten.
Thank you
Hello Jonas! Where do you get your powder? And what brand is that?
I have tried couple of brands, one local here in Finland and some Eastwood from UK Ebay. My coating is peeling of when dumped in to water after 20min in oven... Have you had these kind of probs?
Eastwood should be fine. Do You set them in preheated Owen ? They should sit 15-20 minutes in 180-200 celsjus
Hei. Bra video. Er det helt vanlig pulver for pulverlakkering du bruker? Eventuelt hva er det du bruker? Hvor får man kjøpt slikt? Eller er det noe spesielt man må se etter når mann kjøper pulver å når mann utfører jobben?
New sub enjoyed your video. How much is soft lead per kilo and what is your thoughts on using wheel weights now that the majority are going full zinc
Does the power coating require more frequent cleaning of the barrel?
Depends on what you compare to. The coating itself cleans the barrel, I have one gun that has run well over 5k bullets without as much as a bore snake through it. It still holds accuracy and has no deposits. Jacketed bullets have less deposits, but the copper that gets on the bore is harder to remove. Lubed lead bullets can be all kinds of messy, but also squeaky clean if sized right and with a carefully selected lube for the load, it all depends. But in short, no, coated bullets are the cleanest you can use.
@@Whistler84 I would be shooting them out of my Hatsan hercules bully. 454cal PCP air rifle.
Great video!
Hey thanks for the video. I just wanted to know what the point of powder coating is? Why do you want to do that?
It acts as a jacket. It replaces the need for lube on cast bullets. It also makes the choice of alloy less important as you can use pretty soft lead in high velocities. It is not a fix all however, you still need to size correctly and use a hard enough bullet for your barrel twist.
Mine didn't stick I suspect the bullets was pre lubed
I tried a large batch about 100 and they stuck badly. So no ill try about 50 and leave them in for 12 instead of 20 minutes and water dump them next time .the powder bythe pound blue works well but red HF is still the best and the least cost. The quest continues.
Please watch my new(er) video with the silicone spray method, it works wonders!
I've since switched to a mesh basket that I bent from a roll of mesh, I just lower the entire basket into the bucket and then lightly tap it to the work bench, all bullets release from each other instantly.
thanks man. I was a stand em on end Guy... Just tried this water dump with great success. They don't look quite as nice, but who cares! as long as they shoot right :)
I size to .356 and get a bit of leading still... May have to pick up a .357 sizer
I've tried this technique and I got bald spots where the bullets presumably stuck to one another, and left bare lead on one spot and a "wart" on the other bullet it was touching. Only 1/10 bullets did not show any bare lead spots and was usable. Any ideas?
Just a thought here and that’s it. I’ve been standing mine on their tails using long tweezers for a while and they are nice that way. It is painfully slow though and one giggle sends many toppling over😹. How about doing that method for the serious paper punching as in matches and then doing it this way for the regular daily shooting fodder? That’s a decent compromise I’m going to try.
Nice tutorial looks like nice crayons gonna try this with H&N grizzly .35 pellets but with nickle colour powder coat
good stuff man thanks for sharing
Good video, I can powder coat rather fast, but you are twice as fast. What is the non-stick sheet you use under your bullets?
You can try getting some non stick tin foil from the grocery store. Other option go on Ebay, they sell the non stick sheets.
Where can I buy that Powder Coating etc Thanks for sharing etc
Go to your closest paint workshop that does powder coating and ask to empty their spill bucket. There is always excess that they can't use after painting and it works fine for bullets. That's what I use in the video.
Really enjoy watching your video on this subject! Have you tried maxing out how many bullets you can do at one time? Also how did you determine the time to Powder Coat them in only 12 minutes?
Sorry wrong site!
What kind of temperatures can we expect between the power coated lead bullet and the steel barrel ?
Thank you so much.
Do you use some kind of liquid adherent for powder paint to stick to the bullet?
Generally not needed, but silicone spray on the bullets before adding the powder helps if your powder has trouble adhering.
Jonas, you mention sizing your boolits down to .357 but what measure are you taking to prevent the brass cases from swaging down the boolits even further?
Jag försöker själv med en 9mm polygonräfflad, som blyar lite längst räfflingen första biten, Pulverlackad såklart..
Thanks for the quick and informative reply!
Wow, I've never thought of dumping the bullets into water after taking them out of the oven. I let them slightly cool then bang them on the ground lol. It gets very tedious if you let them cool too much :(
Does powder coating help rifle bullets moving over 1800fps or does that necessitate gas checks like it would with normal lube?
What temp nad time did you pre warm them cuz I tried dry tumbling them and the powder wont stick. So im assuming if theyre warmed up the powder will stick better
i have a dub, first i rectifing the size? or first powder coating the bullet?
So if I buy cast bullets all I have to do is warm them up then drop them in coating it would work?
Bought bullets are usually lubed and ready to be used. Coating is an alternative to lube.
Would have been nice to see what you were doing. Your hands were usually below the frame…
Did you put the mic inside the tub before you shook it? I have PTSD now
LMFAO!!
Hello 1 question it is legal to sell bullets like this in private sale. Just shooting range
Very good! Can you somehow specify / find out what specific powder you are using? I mean - chemically. Is it a polyurethane, polyacetate.... i would like to get this stuff and try to fiddle around with it from .223 to 458. But i just won't spend my time placing individual bullets on their ass. I cast, (tumble) lube and shoot. No sizing till now.
That's the whole point. I have no clue what powder it is. It might be a mix of several. I just ask to empty the spill bucket at my local paint shop that does powder coating.
I do believe most are polyester based, though. Take a look at this follow up method as well: ruclips.net/video/Tf5C7x27Gmg/видео.html
Hello :)
Can you tell how many bullets can be painted with one bag of 1LB?
1LB = bullets?
I have absolutely no idea. 1k? 10k?
I get it for free from any paint shop that do powder coating, I just ask to empty the spill bucket and go away with 20-60 lb at a time.
nice video what brand of powder you are using
This must be a quality powder because the one from Harbor Freight DOES NOT cover like that, I even tried washing with acetone, it didn't make a difference.
Are you in the UK still. Or somewhere in the US? Didnt think you could really own a 9mm in the UK.
Sweden, never been to neither UK or US.
We can own firearms for hunting and competition if we show competition results when applying for permits.
Jonas do you ever have an issue with the coating coming off when sizing?
Im working on putting my own loading set up together but what does powder coating do? Is it similar to copper jackets in a way?
It is a polymer jacket. It will still be loaded like a lead bullet and will act like a lead bullet, except that it will not have any sticky lube to mess up your dies or give smoke when shooting. You can also shoot it to velocities normally only used for jacketed bullets and will be less affected by choice of alloy, I have seen pure lead run to 3000 fps without leading when powder coated.
Does that powder paint come off in the barrel or what?
No, that would defeat the purpose of encasing the lead. It is a polymer jacket. The standard test to see if the coating is good enough is to smash a sample bullet with a hammer, the coating should still be on the entire bullet when it is flat.
Good video thank you
Very nice video. I will subscribe.
do the mp molds fit lee handles? their website says lee molds fit MP handles, but nothing about vice versa
Yes, the six cav handles are interchangable between both brands of both molds and handles.
Navnet ditt gjør at jeg tror du skjønner hva jeg skriver, så jeg tar sjansen på og skrive Norsk. Vil bare først si takk for en veldig bra video som gjør pulverlakkering både raskere og lettere. Dette vil nok halvere tiden jeg bruker på dette. Men har ett lite spørsmål om hvor harde kuler du støper så lenge de blir pulverlakerte til vanlig håndvåpen. Bruker du gascheck på f.eks 44 caliber eller fungerer pulverlakken som mantel ? Jeg har testet 9mm kuler støpt av 22LR bly med ca 3% tinn og vannherdet dem, og det ser faktisk ut til at dette går fint uten mye blying. Riktig nok så ble de ikke ladet opp til faktorkravet, men de hadde en utgangshastighet på runt 850fps. Men har ikke testet ut så grovt som 44 caliber enda. Om du har noen erfaring runt dette, så hadde dette vært supert. Mvh Blygutta
Supert. Da jeg bruker stort sett bare "rangescrap" til alle kuler så ligger jeg nok godt innenfor 10-15 brinell på dem og vannherdingen hjelper nok til litt der. Jeg har til og med blandet 50/50 med 22LR og rangescrap og brinellen ligger innenfor da også. Til 32 cal bruker jeg rent 22LR bly med litt tinn. Men kjempeflott tilbakesvar. Jeg ser du har en masse videoer i fra forskjellige stevner, og de vil jeg virkelig se nærmere på. Ha en videre flott dag.
Time to go pour some 30 caliber 200 grain for a new rifle load...
Good stuff
excellent
If you sometimes size before powder coating, do you send them through the sizer without lube ? Lee says to lube first !!
If you don't lube, you gall the bullet, if you do lube don't try to powder coat unless you remove all the lube
Does this help with leading I'm the barrel?
Would powder coating offer enough hardness as to allow pure lead bullets? In 9x19 para for instance
The coating does nothing on the alloy hardness.
The coating will protect the bullet's lead from leading down the barrel, but accuracy wise you still need to use an alloy appropriate to the barrel twist your caliber uses. For 9mm, the harder you can go the better. If you don't care about grouping, then pure lead might do if you keep it slow enough.
If you use an alloy with antimony and arsenic (like wheel weights), then the baking will help harden the alloy if you drop the bullets in water.
@@Whistler84 unfortunately I don't have access to either at the moment, will tin/powder improve hardness?
@@hhe5218 The powder coating does nothing on the alloy harding.
Tin does increase hardness slighty. It will not harden when baking and water dropping.
@@Whistler84 I'm aware the coating won't harden the lead itself, more if it would be sufficient to stop lead fouling the barrel since pure lead is rather on the soft side.
But if I understand correctly, antimony/arsentic is a must for casting decent 9mm?
@@hhe5218 The coating will protect the lead from leaving deposits in the bore.
Hardness is essential for 9mm because of the high rotational force put on the bullet. Lower velocities can help if you have soft alloys.
The sizer doesn't remove any of the coating?
Nope, not if baked properly.
I've had 9mm bullets being .364" before due to the thick coating before sizing to .357". Works like a charm! :)
Where did you buy your molds
Lee molds I buy from Titan Reloading.com, the Mihec molds are from mpmoulds.com
AND JUST DUMP THEM INN!! I was lmfao! Had to subscribe.
Coater du kulene før sizeing? Må de eventuelt recoates etter sizeing?
Coater du først å kalibrere etterpå? Er der nødvendig å cate igjen etter calibrering vis det coates først?
What??
What is your cast ratio for the lead, tin and antimony?
I just use wheel weights. On occasion I mix it 50/50 with range scrap for low pressure rounds like .38 Special.
Your alloy mix becomes less important if not a non issue with powder coated bullets. Yet another benefit for powder coating. You can use pretty much any kind of scrap lead you can get your hands on provided it doesn't have too much tin or zinc in it. Wheel weights, range scrap and lead pipe, plumbing fittings, automotive battery terminals etc etc.
The days of spending countless money and effort of getting perfect Lyman #2 or Elmer Keith 16/1 are over if you powder coat. You can spend more time reloading and shooting than you do blending alloys and casting bullets. Understandable it is much cheaper as well and you will save money.
Also note that most commercial cast bullets are way too hard for high volume practice pistol shooting. You don't need BHN 16, 18, 20+ for shooting paper and steel. It's done to cut down on damage during shipping, not what it should be or how it shoots. Harder bullets hold up to USPS, UPS and Fed Ex throwing the box around in the truck like a sack of potatoes. Most reloaders and shooters don't abuse their ammo or bullets like that.
Is it just me or can you still see the lead through the powder coat 🤔 .
Maybe that's the results you were looking for 🤷
It happens. Some small marks with open lead from where they touched each other or the tray will not affect performance. If the layer is very thin it can be just a laquerous layer without pigment, it will still protect the lead. People that do multiple coats do it just because of aestethics. One coat can be done plenty thick enough. :)
I don't understand why do you powder cote it
Jonas Björk oh I see very neat thanks
Nice
🐝
Varför gör man detta med kulorna ? :)
For å irritere svensker
Hey man, i'm having real problems with the powder coat sticking to the bullets, it's very patchy. Can you tell me what the label on the bottom of your bucket says? In case it is generating more static than the plastic containers i'm trying to use.
Thanks for your time
thank you for taking the time to answer the question, excellent video by the way. Maybe you should do some more on reloading, would be nice to see a more European take on things.
Cheers from Rainy Ireland
Si
You can also try adding some airsoft BBs when you shake them. Get a screen that will sift out the BBs and not the bullets or just pick them out with a pair of needle nose pliers. I get great results this way. Also, try Eastwood powder coat (Ford blue), best PC on the market. Always sticks!
What's your pre-heat temp for that warm up?
Hot summer day. About 30-40 degrees Celsius. Five-ten minutes usually does it.
@@Whistler84 Thank you sir.
What temp do take the bullets to, to coat them?
Well we'll try that one again. What temp do you bring the bullets up to in order to make the initial coating of powder stick to the bullets?
Thats what I wanna know too
what brand of silicone sheet?
Just generic house hold stuff. Doubt you'll find the same brand in your location as I live in Sweden.
Which Powder do you use for coating?
Any. This method works with all types I've tried.
As I say in the video, just go to any powder coating shop and ask to empty the spill bucket, they'll give it too you for free.
Thank you for the answer sometimes it´s hard for me to understand all, it´s not my 1st language ;)
Mine either... :)
a good Shepard u are "
Where can we get the book "From Ingots To Targets" ? Check Amazon no luck :-(
www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Contents.htm
Enjoy, and always remember to reciprocate and help others in this community. We only survive by sticking together.
THANK YOU, will be passing this along to my caster friends :-)