Really good video! Lot of good tips n tricks there! Thanks for the info on the decals...Ive been looking for some where I can have my logo on them! Lot of great links in your description also! Thanks for sharing...looking fwd to the DIRS being at your track!
@@MonsterMotorsportsDiecast Hey Bud, you have great content! Races are exciting n I watch to see which castings are fast! Thanks for all the hard work!!
Miss u man was just going back watching some videos seeing what I can learn snd seen this blast from the past.. hope all is well in life for ya.. would love to see u return and host races again
My process is almost identical to this now a days, where was this video a year ago lol Great vid! Pro tip: Harbor Freight Tools carries the helping hand for $5.50 (dont forget the 20% coupon to get it cheaper!) and Ace Hardware carries hob-e-lube (my local ones do at least YMMV)
This is a great video. Got a question though. Can you trim down those tire weights with that heavy scissors you used earlier in the video? Seems like, with a little trim that 1/2 weight would have fit in the bottom of your car. Just saying.
@@MonsterMotorsportsDiecast Wow! Not like the old lead tire weight days! By the way, you can get that tungsten in a putty on Amazon. Container's 34.5g and might be easier to fit in smaller spaces than the blocks.
very good tricks, thank you so much. how do you deal with brand new axles though? I tend to switch around my Majorette, HW and Tomica bodies and wheels and sometimes I need new axles because the originals don't fit
Thanks. I very rarely do axle swaps unless I am real rider rubber wheels. But then I only take the same mainline casting wheel/axle set and swap them out. So the axle/wheel set from the mainline matches the premium. I personally don't don't have the time to make custom axles.
@@MonsterMotorsportsDiecast I see, fair enough. I have been using 0.8mm wire as axle and I rub a lot of graphite on them before putting the wheels but I often run into trouble with the wheels touching the wide body mods I make with epoxy. I still got a lot to learn...
Maybe grind out the wheel well more? I've also discovered that having the fenders protrude beyond the sidewall of the wheels may look cool, but they can can rub against the track and create more drag.
Nice video. Looking at the chassis and the heavier weight, you might have been able to shave the sides some to be able to add the weight. Or, possibly used a rotary tool (Dremel) to shave some of the weight to be able to fit it in.
The weight is very tough to cut or shave (even with a Dremmel), but definitely cutting those tiny sidewalls on the chassis is a great and easier option.
i am currently trying my first mods on cars with weights;;;but i have some crazy scissors as an art teacher,,, they can cut coins in half...ill let u know if they work so u can sneak those bigger wheights in we will see if amazon delivers,,,
just look up some mid level bandage cutting scissors that paramedics carry isn’t much they ca not cut lol or some tin snips but excited to test should be here in an hour or so
I have not had that issue yet, but G4 Diecast Racing shared a story with me just last night that he had to remove the glue holding down the axles, and re-align in the axle jig. The only other thing I can think of is maybe there is a slight bend in the axle.
When I was a kid my father who is a welder helped me melt lead and fill the cars completely with lead. We went all out on our modified drag cars. My brother designed a dry ice hover car which we never got around to actually build. Another idea we always wanted was to use ball bearings instead of wheels and tires. Would like to know if anyone ever tried stuff like this.
That sounds awesome! There are builders that will melt and fill with lead. Whenever I need to maximize weight, I use tungsten putty. There are also a few builders that have tried filling the inside of the wheels with lead, it really only works on specific tracks. It has to do with how fast the car can get up to speed and if the track is long enough for that later speed to play a factor.
![Kodak Black - Catch Fire [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/A4ch-olIuZo/mqdefault.jpg)
Really good video! Lot of good tips n tricks there! Thanks for the info on the decals...Ive been looking for some where I can have my logo on them! Lot of great links in your description also! Thanks for sharing...looking fwd to the DIRS being at your track!
Thanks Po'Boy! Very humbled by your kind words. 🙏
@@MonsterMotorsportsDiecast Hey Bud, you have great content! Races are exciting n I watch to see which castings are fast! Thanks for all the hard work!!
Really humbled that you pinned "my" comment....Thank you for that!
@@PoBoyRacing80 dude! I highly respect your involvement in the community. Much respect for you and your builds. 🤘
@@MonsterMotorsportsDiecast Thank you Sir!
Miss u man was just going back watching some videos seeing what I can learn snd seen this blast from the past.. hope all is well in life for ya.. would love to see u return and host races again
Its crazy I see other channels with 1 miilion subs and noe where near as good as this. I guess somtimes its just luck I guess
My process is almost identical to this now a days, where was this video a year ago lol
Great vid!
Pro tip: Harbor Freight Tools carries the helping hand for $5.50 (dont forget the 20% coupon to get it cheaper!) and Ace Hardware carries hob-e-lube (my local ones do at least YMMV)
Thanks Derrick! Harbor Freight is my jam, but I get lazy sometimes with online ordering from Amazon. Hahahaha
This was wonderful... thanks for a look behind the curtain. Wasn’t expecting that name drop either...🤣 #5😎❤️🏁
🤣🤣🤣 glad you liked it RTR!
Great work! Liked and subscribed 👍
This is a great video. Got a question though. Can you trim down those tire weights with that heavy scissors you used earlier in the video? Seems like, with a little trim that 1/2 weight would have fit in the bottom of your car. Just saying.
I tried using my tin snips and it barely scratched them. You need a bench grinder. lol
@@MonsterMotorsportsDiecast Wow! Not like the old lead tire weight days! By the way, you can get that tungsten in a putty on Amazon. Container's 34.5g and might be easier to fit in smaller spaces than the blocks.
@@justMikec haven't seen the putty yet! Thanks for letting me know. I'll definitely have to check that out 🤙
Lots of good information. Thanks for sharing. Congrats on 500 Subscribers!
Thanks Joe! Glad you liked the info.
Great job Rubber Tow! Thanks for providing the great information to the diecast racing community!
Thanks! We will be bringing more car build journals in the future.
Thank you, love your videos.
Thanks, Colin! Appreciate the support!
Awesome! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
very good tricks, thank you so much. how do you deal with brand new axles though? I tend to switch around my Majorette, HW and Tomica bodies and wheels and sometimes I need new axles because the originals don't fit
Thanks. I very rarely do axle swaps unless I am real rider rubber wheels. But then I only take the same mainline casting wheel/axle set and swap them out. So the axle/wheel set from the mainline matches the premium. I personally don't don't have the time to make custom axles.
@@MonsterMotorsportsDiecast I see, fair enough. I have been using 0.8mm wire as axle and I rub a lot of graphite on them before putting the wheels but I often run into trouble with the wheels touching the wide body mods I make with epoxy. I still got a lot to learn...
Maybe grind out the wheel well more? I've also discovered that having the fenders protrude beyond the sidewall of the wheels may look cool, but they can can rub against the track and create more drag.
Nice video. Looking at the chassis and the heavier weight, you might have been able to shave the sides some to be able to add the weight. Or, possibly used a rotary tool (Dremel) to shave some of the weight to be able to fit it in.
The weight is very tough to cut or shave (even with a Dremmel), but definitely cutting those tiny sidewalls on the chassis is a great and easier option.
Great video! It's cool seeing how you mod them up. I think I might have to look into some decals. You make it look easy.
Thanks, Big Al! Water slides definitely give that extra sharp look to a car.
My smallest Allen wrenches seem to be just to big for the 2-56 1/8 hex button screw, where did you get yours?
www.brightvisionwheels.com/product/40-stainless-steel-2-56-hex-drive-button-head-screw-in-rivets-washers-for-customs/
Nicely done.
Straight up science
#fact 😎
Well done.
Cheers
Thanks!
i am currently trying my first mods on cars with weights;;;but i have some crazy scissors as an art teacher,,, they can cut coins in half...ill let u know if they work so u can sneak those bigger wheights in we will see if amazon delivers,,,
Oh dang! Yeah, please let me know if those scissors work.
just look up some mid level bandage cutting scissors that paramedics carry isn’t much they ca not cut lol or some tin snips but excited to test should be here in an hour or so
@@MonsterMotorsportsDiecast it appears tungsten is tronger than copper lol sorry for disinformation
No worries. I tried tin snips and those didn't work either. Maybe bench grinder 😅
Nice work dude
Thanks Thom!
Excellent👍
Thanks Simon! I really look up and respect you and your channel. Glad you like it!
@@MonsterMotorsportsDiecast Thanks mate👍🔥✊
Great stuff man! Super helpful. Thank you for sharing. :)
My pleasure! Glad it was helpful.
Good stuff man, quite helpful!
Thanks!
How do you correct a modified car that is pulling to one side?
I have not had that issue yet, but G4 Diecast Racing shared a story with me just last night that he had to remove the glue holding down the axles, and re-align in the axle jig. The only other thing I can think of is maybe there is a slight bend in the axle.
Pocket Pool Paufler to the rescue.. sorry Josh! lol
😆😆😆 it was just Pocket Paufler. Like Pocket Google.
@@MonsterMotorsportsDiecast I know but you know me. I think that is going to be his new nickname now ;)
@@Jacensbattlegrounds nicknames are given and never chosen 😄😄😄
@@MonsterMotorsportsDiecast True dat
When I was a kid my father who is a welder helped me melt lead and fill the cars completely with lead. We went all out on our modified drag cars. My brother designed a dry ice hover car which we never got around to actually build. Another idea we always wanted was to use ball bearings instead of wheels and tires. Would like to know if anyone ever tried stuff like this.
That sounds awesome! There are builders that will melt and fill with lead. Whenever I need to maximize weight, I use tungsten putty. There are also a few builders that have tried filling the inside of the wheels with lead, it really only works on specific tracks. It has to do with how fast the car can get up to speed and if the track is long enough for that later speed to play a factor.
Why not lube wheels before putting it back together? Seems like it would be less of a mess. Just saying.
Why not lube wheels before putting it back together. Less mess maybe.
👍
Glad you enjoyed the tutorial.
👍👍👍
Thanks FRRC! 🤘
Salut my friend super car super video subscribe subscribe .
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it!
lol, good enough for government work!!!
😆😆😆
Mr Paufler 😂😂 Who’s that?
Some old guy! 🤣😂🤣😂🤣
@@MonsterMotorsportsDiecast 😂😂😂😂 You’re not wrong 🤔
@@RustBeltDiecastRacing 😆😆😆
Good enough for goverment work would indicate to me that you have some sort of military background.
SHOW
Thanks
Yo uso ploml
Quiero probar tungsteno
@@MonsterMotorsportsDiecast es bueno pesa mucho te lo recomiendo eso hacemos en puerto rico
@@Guingoyo ¡La familia de mi esposa es de Ponce!
@@MonsterMotorsportsDiecast si me alegro , que bien yo soy de barranquitas , tu tienes FB ?
@@Guingoyo facebook.com/groups/402511134118260
Plomo
Quiero probar tungsteno