These videos demonstrate how a simple service can quickly become somewhat complicated. This may lead some to avoid DIY but those who pursue the task have everything to gain in increasing their comfort and familiarity with their machines. Well done and thanks!
The assembly of the gear is very complicated, thus impeller replacement is too pricy at the marine services. Does any company produces impellers from life- long lasting materials, as titanium or the special alloy?
thanks for the wonderful video. I really enjoy my 3.5 on a small com-pac sailboat, and will need to do my own maintenance to get the most use out of it. I'm saving this to my library!
Having fought one of these many times, I suggest the following to make the replacement of the leg easier. Tip. mark the position of the gear change clamp behind the grommet hole -before undoing it- this is critical! I use correction white paint. First, remove the engine from the boat and empty the tank. Fit the engine transom clamps with an 18" length of 4" x 2" timber and clamp the engine upside down in a vice. Even horizontal is easier than down. Then tighten the steering clamp. Using gravity makes it so much easier! A small LED light is essential, together with a couple of short lengths of 3mm welding rod bent into a 'U' shape at the end, to hold the water tube and gear link clamp in place whilst sliding the shaft into the spline in the engine. No resistance should be encountered if it's in the right place in the splines. If at first, you don't succeed etc--- takes a bit of practice. One hour should do it!! Have fun-Peter.
Read the tops that others provided on The comments below as well. Put a towel down under your work space so if you drop anything...you can find it more easily. Good luck. Have fun
Merci steve, une vidéo très instructive, je ne m'attendais pas à un travail si complexe avec le bas du moteur et la pompe. translate by google: Thank you steve, a very informative video, I didn't expect such complex work with the bottom of the engine and the pump.🙏👍😎
Je vous remercie. Ce sera la deuxième fois plus rapide. J'ai beaucoup appris sur cette première tentative. J'espère que Tohatsu UK va m'aider à trier le trou bloqué. I hope I got that right in french. Blame google translate if I didn't :)
Thank you for the heads up on a few of these procedures. I have a prpane lehr that i just purchased used and the lower unit appears to be similar enough to yours. Its nice to know what youre getting yourself into!
@@plymouthwelshboy after reading that id say your thought process seems logical. Id think the same, ot would simply wash away😉 This is my first outboard. May i ask, the stream of water from the pump is it constant or does the stream come and go? I see in a service manual that my lehr has a thermostat, so i would assume that the stream of water will come and go as the thermostat opens and closes. But ive nothing, nor any experience, to compare. This unit sat for 2 years and fired right up. I have to say, for all the negative things i see concerning lehr im quite impressed by this little unit.
I’ve just managed to split the leg on mine (same engine). I should have done this yearly, it took a lot of persuasion to get the leg away from the power head. The issue was not the drive shaft seized into the head as I thought. It was the steel stud at the bottom seized into the aluminium casting. This only released after quite a lot of heat on the stud from a mini blowtorch and some enthusiastic whacking with a large hammer and a piece of hardwood. (Careful not to break the cavitation plate!) hit it near the front. - also try hanging the leg upside down and spraying a load of releasing lube in there - leave overnight or even longer.
Great video but one thing. Use some silicon o ring grease on the impeller and use the absolute minimal amount. The reason is that while it is all well lubricated any sand etc... will be caught up in the grease and create extra impeller wear.
Was your water pickup tube just flopping around in the midsection? I could see the copper tube going all the way up to the engine but was pretty hard to connect to the lower unit
Yo be honest I have absolutely no idea. Given that there is a inlet valve just above the prop and an exit stream of water when engine is running....then I'd expect dribbles of water to appear anywhere below the engine but that's just me. I always thought that cooling water went up the shaft ....but as a very amateur sailor who has only done his engine service twice ....I truthfully don't know...sorry 🤔🙄😔
Really good video easy to fallow step by step. But let me make a comment, all those grease you used on the impeller and the shaft will lend in the water because it is in the way up to the engine cooling channel.
Ferenc that is an issue and a fair point. It is waterproof grease and tends to stick better but eventually over time it will break down. Also be aware that in one small clip managed to reverse the film clip. The spindle should be spun the opposite way to the way I do it in the film 😄
HiSteve, Very informative video. Can I ask where you sourced all your parts from? I have the exact same engine and am unsure what oil plug gaskets, impellers and anodes to buy? Many thanks Thomas
I need to replace the lower oil seal on a similar 3.5 mercury, looks the same as your Tohatsu have you replaced your seal , How do you remove the old seal inside the bearing Rick
IMPORTANT NOTE The water pump is not self-priming! So just covering the inlet holes is not sufficient. THE WATER LEVEL IN THE BUCKET MUST BE HIGHER THAN THE PUMP OR THE IMPELLER WILL DESTROY ITSELF IN SECONDS! Peter.
Oh good spot.....how did I manage that......well done...good eagle eyes......I have no idea what I've done to that and have just got rid of the draft edit films as well to free up space 🙄
Sorry I can't . I just went down my local chandler and told them what outboard I had and they had all the parts I needed and at very good price, cheaper that I could get on internet so I just went with their recommendations...sorry not very helpful on that one ......😥
Complimenti per il video 🤙💪 ho lo stesso motore e faccio anch'io manutenzione da solo L'olio io l'ho messo togliendo l'elica e poi i 2 bulloni che tengono il tappo dietro l'elica con guarnizione e ho messo la giusta quantità di olio, il mio olio Gear non era bianco come il tuo ma marrone colore dell'olio motore x intenderci
Grazie. Il mio olio è risultato bianco ma il nuovo olio è diventato di colore chiaro. tohatsu ha sostituito la mia unità inferiore perché ho scoperto un problema tecnico con esso che era un problema di controllo della qualità di fabbrica.
questo è stato uno dei problemi per me. L'altro problema per cui il foro di ingresso dell'olio era bloccato a causa di un errore di progettazione e quindi non sono riuscito a portare il nuovo olio nell'unità inferiore
It was a quality control issue. Some of the lower units didn't have the hole drilled out and were missed on the quality check. Tohatsu were really good and replaced it free. That included dispatching one all the way to a Plymouth tohatsu dealership for me to collect
This foxed me last year, my motor is the same. The owners manual confirms that it’s the oil level. So this is a systemic problem and your solution of upending the unit is the best work around. I abandoned the job last season, but will complete this year. There’s no schedule for this job in the manual. I’d suggest using a 500gm weighing scales (big river company) to confirm quantity injected. Very informative, thanks.
c'è un vuoto e quindi si pompa dal basso e l'aria uscirà dall'alto. Se lo fai dall'alto, una sacca d'aria verrà intrappolata nella parte inferiore. Almeno questa è la mia comprensione. Buon anno a te, alla tua famiglia e ai tuoi amici
@@plymouthwelshboy grazie per la risposta...io uso olio molto fluido, pensavo che lasciando sotto la vite e facendo entrare l'olio da sopra...il riempimento sarà migliore....forse sbaglio?!?
Pretty much every lower unit of that type that I've seen, that hole is clear through into the gearcase void. I'd say its a manufacturing fault. That oil you removed initially has water in it from the look of it. Hard to see how that gearbox has been properly serviced without that vent being functional......keen to hear the outcome.
@@plymouthwelshboy Good on Tohatsu, not so much the local service people. Ticks you off when experts don't fulfil their end of the deal......(the people previously responsible for the servicing......) anyway, glad to hear that it's sorted.
@@michaelsimpson9779 Thanks Michael. Hopefully a new unit will be sent out tomorrow if they have a spare in stock. If not i have to wait for one from japan to arrive in next few weeks.
@@michaelsimpson9779 Thanks Michael. Hopefully a new unit will be sent out tomorrow if they have a spare in stock. If not i have to wait for one from japan to arrive in next few weeks.
Nice video, well done, buT you have to turn the shaft clockwise when you put the waterpump housing back. Your explanation makes it little bit complicated to understand.
Always the danger with videoing something you've never done before...mistakes and thinking on your feet trying to work it out as you go..😄😄 on the other hand, best way to encourage other amateurs to give it a go......learning by doing.....😁😁😁 Thanks for the praise. Appreciated. Take care now Rudi, stay safe in these strange times
I understood the engine turns the drive clockwise making your impleller blades face anti clockwise but you turned the drive backwards making your impeller blade face clockwise
I know....good spot....I actually corrected it before assembly but forgot to film.it and then forgot to delete the original film of the mistake.....not my finest hour 🤔🙄😭
adding grease to the impeller and housing is the worse thing to do! Grease can accelerate the deterioration of the rubber impeller. That's why you use washing up liquid or a special impeller lubricant. Given the very small parts that could go missing I would not attempt this over decking either. Great to do these jobs yourself but without the right knowledge you can make some expensive mistakes.....trust me, I know :)
These videos demonstrate how a simple service can quickly become somewhat complicated. This may lead some to avoid DIY but those who pursue the task have everything to gain in increasing their comfort and familiarity with their machines. Well done and thanks!
Most welcome. Everything is learning 😄
The assembly of the gear is very complicated, thus impeller replacement is too pricy at the marine services. Does any company produces impellers from life- long lasting materials, as titanium or the special alloy?
I have absolutely no idea, sorry. It is a good point though
Great easy to-follow and clear instructions. Much appreciate the time taken to create this video.
You are most welcome. Glad it could help.
Thank you John for making and posting the video, I changed the impeller on my 6hp Nissan and this was very helpful
You are most welcome and I'm Steve 😁
thanks for the wonderful video. I really enjoy my 3.5 on a small com-pac sailboat, and will need to do my own maintenance to get the most use out of it. I'm saving this to my library!
You are most welcome. Trawl the comments below for some good tips as well
GREAT!!! This is exactly what I was looking for! Thanks so much for sharing ❤
you are most welcome
Having fought one of these many times, I suggest the following to make the replacement of the leg easier.
Tip. mark the position of the gear change clamp behind the grommet hole -before undoing it- this is critical!
I use correction white paint.
First, remove the engine from the boat and empty the tank.
Fit the engine transom clamps with an 18" length of 4" x 2" timber and clamp the engine upside down in a vice. Even horizontal is easier than down. Then tighten the steering clamp.
Using gravity makes it so much easier!
A small LED light is essential, together with a couple of short lengths of 3mm welding rod bent into a 'U' shape at the end, to hold the water tube and gear link clamp in place whilst sliding the shaft into the spline in the engine. No resistance should be encountered if it's in the right place in the splines.
If at first, you don't succeed etc--- takes a bit of practice.
One hour should do it!!
Have fun-Peter.
An outstand set of tips Peter. Thank you for sharing....wish I'd known earlier...🤣😄
Good advice, thanks
Good work 👍, thanks and best wishes!
Thanks 😊
Bravo!Thank you.
You are most welcome. Hope it was useful. Take care now
thanks for a great "honest" video !!!! really made the job easier
Glad it helped 😊
Thank you so much for this video!! I am inspired by your video, and will be changing it myself.
Read the tops that others provided on The comments below as well. Put a towel down under your work space so if you drop anything...you can find it more easily. Good luck. Have fun
Merci steve, une vidéo très instructive, je ne m'attendais pas à un travail si complexe avec le bas du moteur et la pompe.
translate by google:
Thank you steve, a very informative video, I didn't expect such complex work with the bottom of the engine and the pump.🙏👍😎
Je vous remercie. Ce sera la deuxième fois plus rapide. J'ai beaucoup appris sur cette première tentative. J'espère que Tohatsu UK va m'aider à trier le trou bloqué. I hope I got that right in french. Blame google translate if I didn't :)
Excelente video, compatible también con tohatsu 3.5 HP 2 tiempos
Glad it helps. Appreciated the comment
Thanks this was very helpfull for me
Most welcome. Must admit it was a steep learning curve
Than you, very good video, helped a lot.
Pozdrav iz Slovenije
Most welcome Tomaz. Take care now
Thanks this was very helpfull for me 😊😊
You are most welcome
Thanks for letting us know 😷🖐🏽🖐🏽👍😁
welcome
Very informative. You do sound like David Attenborough sneaking up on a pride of lions though. :)
I'll take that as a compliment, I think 😄
Top of the top! Very informative! Thanks!
Thank you. It was a steep learning curve but good fun. Take care now and thanks for stopping by my channel
Thanks very much, very helpful!
Most welcome. Don't forget the comments tips as well
Thank you for the heads up on a few of these procedures. I have a prpane lehr that i just purchased used and the lower unit appears to be similar enough to yours. Its nice to know what youre getting yourself into!
You are most welcome. Read comments below as well..some good other tips although I'm not convinced by the washing up liquid one 😄
@@plymouthwelshboy after reading that id say your thought process seems logical. Id think the same, ot would simply wash away😉
This is my first outboard. May i ask, the stream of water from the pump is it constant or does the stream come and go? I see in a service manual that my lehr has a thermostat, so i would assume that the stream of water will come and go as the thermostat opens and closes. But ive nothing, nor any experience, to compare. This unit sat for 2 years and fired right up. I have to say, for all the negative things i see concerning lehr im quite impressed by this little unit.
Not sure if mine has a thermostat or not but my understanding is that the stream should be constant....
I’ve just managed to split the leg on mine (same engine). I should have done this yearly, it took a lot of persuasion to get the leg away from the power head. The issue was not the drive shaft seized into the head as I thought. It was the steel stud at the bottom seized into the aluminium casting. This only released after quite a lot of heat on the stud from a mini blowtorch and some enthusiastic whacking with a large hammer and a piece of hardwood. (Careful not to break the cavitation plate!) hit it near the front. - also try hanging the leg upside down and spraying a load of releasing lube in there - leave overnight or even longer.
Yeah tricky things are outboards full of surprises. Nice set of tips...thanks for sharing them...all helps 👍
Interesting to see how to service the outboard, hopefully not much longer until you can get back on the water.
Thanks Matt...a steep learning curve 😄
www.arwensmeanderings.blogspot.co.uk
Has the update and outcomes 😁
Great video but one thing. Use some silicon o ring grease on the impeller and use the absolute minimal amount. The reason is that while it is all well lubricated any sand etc... will be caught up in the grease and create extra impeller wear.
Really good tip cheers for that 👍
Was your water pickup tube just flopping around in the midsection? I could see the copper tube going all the way up to the engine but was pretty hard to connect to the lower unit
No as I remember it the two tubes connected. It was the trickiest bit...drove me insane but it just takes time and practice
You'll save yourself a few quid over time doing it yourself Steve. Hope you and yours are all well mate. Let's hope the water will be calling us soon.
Hey Rameman. Good to hear from you. Hope u are safe and well. Yep, looking forward to a sail across to Cawsand and back asap
Is it normal for a small amount of water to come out of the plug where u connect the shifting rod together
Yo be honest I have absolutely no idea. Given that there is a inlet valve just above the prop and an exit stream of water when engine is running....then I'd expect dribbles of water to appear anywhere below the engine but that's just me. I always thought that cooling water went up the shaft ....but as a very amateur sailor who has only done his engine service twice ....I truthfully don't know...sorry 🤔🙄😔
Really good video easy to fallow step by step. But let me make a comment, all those grease you used on the impeller and the shaft will lend in the water because it is in the way up to the engine cooling channel.
Ferenc that is an issue and a fair point. It is waterproof grease and tends to stick better but eventually over time it will break down. Also be aware that in one small clip managed to reverse the film clip. The spindle should be spun the opposite way to the way I do it in the film 😄
HiSteve, Very informative video. Can I ask where you sourced all your parts from? I have the exact same engine and am unsure what oil plug gaskets, impellers and anodes to buy?
Many thanks
Thomas
Hi thomas I got most of my stuff from these people....good service...... www.rib-shop.com/tohatsu-parts-lists/. Hope that helps
@@plymouthwelshboy thanks for the quick reply! Will check them out.
@@captainthomassailing8767 most welcome
Have just done the impellor task. In my case the splines lined up easily but my clamp fell off, which was a nightmare!
So many variables to think about....and trying to anticipate them 🙄👍😉
Did you actually replace the gaskets on the water pump assembly? I didn't see that part. Is it necessary?
I didn't on this occasion ... The gaskets were fine and I won't replace something if it doesn't need it. Hope that helps 😊
I need to replace the lower oil seal on a similar 3.5 mercury, looks the same as your Tohatsu
have you replaced your seal , How do you remove the old seal inside the bearing Rick
Can't help you with that o e Rick. Haven't done it myself. Bound to be someone on RUclips who has though. Sorry bro.
IMPORTANT NOTE
The water pump is not self-priming! So just covering the inlet holes is not sufficient.
THE WATER LEVEL IN THE BUCKET MUST BE HIGHER THAN THE PUMP OR THE IMPELLER WILL DESTROY ITSELF IN SECONDS!
Peter.
good tip Peter - thanks
Does it also start in forward position or is than a gear save engaged?
I e never started it in forward gear only in neutral which is also what .y handbook says 😀
Is your video image reversed? It looked like you were turning the drive shaft anti clockwise, but wouldn’t that mean the impeller is folded clockwise?
Oh good spot.....how did I manage that......well done...good eagle eyes......I have no idea what I've done to that and have just got rid of the draft edit films as well to free up space 🙄
Seen that also..lol
can you share the part numbers for all of the parts please.
Sorry I can't . I just went down my local chandler and told them what outboard I had and they had all the parts I needed and at very good price, cheaper that I could get on internet so I just went with their recommendations...sorry not very helpful on that one ......😥
Complimenti per il video 🤙💪 ho lo stesso motore e faccio anch'io manutenzione da solo
L'olio io l'ho messo togliendo l'elica e poi i 2 bulloni che tengono il tappo dietro l'elica con guarnizione e ho messo la giusta quantità di olio, il mio olio Gear non era bianco come il tuo ma marrone colore dell'olio motore x intenderci
Grazie. Il mio olio è risultato bianco ma il nuovo olio è diventato di colore chiaro. tohatsu ha sostituito la mia unità inferiore perché ho scoperto un problema tecnico con esso che era un problema di controllo della qualità di fabbrica.
@@plymouthwelshboy ah ecco, sicuramente entrava acqua all'interno per questo l'olio era di quel colore, è entrata acqua dalla guarnizione
questo è stato uno dei problemi per me. L'altro problema per cui il foro di ingresso dell'olio era bloccato a causa di un errore di progettazione e quindi non sono riuscito a portare il nuovo olio nell'unità inferiore
@@plymouthwelshboy posso linkare il mio video? Così puoi vedere come ho fatto
@@NinoSpinner metti il link del tuo video come indirizzo URL in risposta a questo commento e darò un'occhiata - grazie
Did you found out why it was a plug in the upper hole?
It was a quality control issue. Some of the lower units didn't have the hole drilled out and were missed on the quality check. Tohatsu were really good and replaced it free. That included dispatching one all the way to a Plymouth tohatsu dealership for me to collect
why are you whispering? haha good job. i liked your video and work. helpful. thank you.
Most welcome thanks for the vote 😀
What type of grease is that?
Marine white grease....water proof stuff
Great.. thanks.. love the video
Tim, most welcome. U take care now in these strange times
That blockage looks like the drill that was making that hole during manufacture did not go all the way through the casting.
That was my first thought and I am tempted to drill a tiny hole I must admit - but then if I am wrong ugh!
Hope someone who is an expert comments on what the blockage is. Great videos!
@@beaconbus thanks Zak. I'm hoping do too 😱
This foxed me last year, my motor is the same. The owners manual confirms that it’s the oil level. So this is a systemic problem and your solution of upending the unit is the best work around. I abandoned the job last season, but will complete this year. There’s no schedule for this job in the manual. I’d suggest using a 500gm weighing scales (big river company) to confirm quantity injected. Very informative, thanks.
Come mai l'olio non lo entri dal bullone superiore? Così scende verso la coda...o no?
c'è un vuoto e quindi si pompa dal basso e l'aria uscirà dall'alto. Se lo fai dall'alto, una sacca d'aria verrà intrappolata nella parte inferiore. Almeno questa è la mia comprensione. Buon anno a te, alla tua famiglia e ai tuoi amici
@@plymouthwelshboy grazie per la risposta...io uso olio molto fluido, pensavo che lasciando sotto la vite e facendo entrare l'olio da sopra...il riempimento sarà migliore....forse sbaglio?!?
nel mio manuale dice sicuramente riempire dal foro inferiore fino a quando non fuoriesce dall'alto 😄
@@plymouthwelshboy okkkk 👍
Does anyone happen to know the part number for the impeller for this motor? Thank you.
I think it is Part number:369-65021-1 but you do need to check that before buying.
Glad it took you 6 attempts. It took me ages as well All other videos it goes on Frist time. Thanks.
Most welcome
Pretty much every lower unit of that type that I've seen, that hole is clear through into the gearcase void. I'd say its a manufacturing fault. That oil you removed initially has water in it from the look of it. Hard to see how that gearbox has been properly serviced without that vent being functional......keen to hear the outcome.
www.arwensmeanderings.blogspot.co.uk.
Has all the details over six posts including astonishingly exemplary customer service from Tohatsu.....
@@plymouthwelshboy Good on Tohatsu, not so much the local service people. Ticks you off when experts don't fulfil their end of the deal......(the people previously responsible for the servicing......) anyway, glad to hear that it's sorted.
@@michaelsimpson9779 Thanks Michael. Hopefully a new unit will be sent out tomorrow if they have a spare in stock. If not i have to wait for one from japan to arrive in next few weeks.
@@michaelsimpson9779 Thanks Michael. Hopefully a new unit will be sent out tomorrow if they have a spare in stock. If not i have to wait for one from japan to arrive in next few weeks.
Bravo anch'io oggi faccio il tagliando più la girante
Thank you. I made the odd mistake but got there in the end.
When you change the oil in the foot if its milky like yours its water inside need a check-up.......the color must be black dark
yeah, finally all sorted
Nice video, well done, buT you have to turn the shaft clockwise when you put the waterpump housing back. Your explanation makes it little bit complicated to understand.
Always the danger with videoing something you've never done before...mistakes and thinking on your feet trying to work it out as you go..😄😄 on the other hand, best way to encourage other amateurs to give it a go......learning by doing.....😁😁😁 Thanks for the praise. Appreciated. Take care now Rudi, stay safe in these strange times
I understood the engine turns the drive clockwise making your impleller blades face anti clockwise but you turned the drive backwards making your impeller blade face clockwise
I know....good spot....I actually corrected it before assembly but forgot to film.it and then forgot to delete the original film of the mistake.....not my finest hour 🤔🙄😭
@@plymouthwelshboy good one happy boating 👍
adding grease to the impeller and housing is the worse thing to do! Grease can accelerate the deterioration of the rubber impeller. That's why you use washing up liquid or a special impeller lubricant. Given the very small parts that could go missing I would not attempt this over decking either. Great to do these jobs yourself but without the right knowledge you can make some expensive mistakes.....trust me, I know :)
Good tips....thanks for the heads up..😄
Forgive my stupidity but wouldn't washing up liquid just wash away?
@@plymouthwelshboy silicone grease is needed.
Another good tip. Tha k you
The grease can not be petrol based because it will tear down the impeller
Thanks for the tip