Thank you SO much, Martin! Please keep making move videos! There are so few individuals who know the lute anymore. In places like the states there are even times I have been asked by luthiers at shops "What is that?" Your efforts are touching more lives than you will ever realize. Thank you again!
When I changed strings on my guitar, I changed all of them one by one. I didn't remove them all at once, I only removed the one I was changing, tuned it, then detuned and removed the next one. I don't have a lute yet, so I haven't changed strings on one yet, but this is great advice!
I have a lute (a "guitar-lute" actually) tuned like a guitar (6 strings); it's been sold with classical guitar strings on and I don't like the sound (too much like a classical or flamenca guitar). Any advice on strings Brand I could put on that would match the required E-A-D-G-B-E tuning and give a better lute sound. Should I buy strings individually or does a set exist?Thank you
I recommend David Van Edwards ("build yourself a lute") courses: www.vanedwards.co.uk/renlute.htm The course is not expensive and he gives excellent advice, including where to get materials.
No - even the thinnest guitar strings are too thick for the lute. Lutes come in many different sizes and tunings (the top string is not always g') and so need many different sizes of strings. Lutes also use a variety of string tensions, but they are all much less than on the guitar. For example, a lute tuned with the top string at g' would typically have a string length of about 59-60cm and would use a string of about .45mm in nylon or .42mm in gut. String tensions vary a lot but for this same (quite small) lute most of the courses (pairs of strings) would have a tension of about 25 Newtons per string. The top string, being usually single, would have a higher tension. There are several suppliers of nylon and other strings for lutes which are listed on (for example) www.lutesociety.org and www.lutesocietyofamerica.org
Do you think Lute strings could handle gear pegs instead of friction? I recently bought a lute that was custom made and wanted to make sure lute strings could with gear pegs so I dont waste anymore money than I need.
Friction pegs are fine as long as they are well fitted. You can now buy geared pegs where the gears are internal so they look like normal pegs, but they are heavier. Gears also make the process of attaching a new string much slower. The problem with tuning the lute is nearly always to do with the friction over the nut, rather than the pegs.
I think you must mean the string on a treble rider? There's not much space to wind a lot of string onto the peg, so you might want to just pull the string through the hole in the peg (with the string slightly loose) and by the time you've got the string up to pitch there will be just a few turns on the peg. Be careful that the string doesn't touch the cheeks of the treble rider or you might have problems with the peg slipping. Another problem with treble riders is if the peg has pushed through a bit the hole might be uncomfortably close to the cheek, so you might need to drill another hole.
Thanks for your response. Ah yes! I didn't know what they were called. I've recently acquired an old 8 course lute (made by a maker named Reither in 1960 with a new sound board and bridge added/made by another luthier, R. E. Brune, ca. 1985). I've only seen them on 10+ course lutes but this instrument has a string length of 625mm which I think may be a reason for it. The opening on the rider itself is also far thinner than any I've seen on other instruments which makes it difficult to put a string through. It's about the size of a coin slot. I've been having issues with keeping a string on it for exactly the issue you mentioned (peg slipping). There seems to already be an another hole drilled into it but unfortunately it's too close to the first hole making it almost redundant. Would there be anything else I could try to get a string on there or does the treble rider make it pretty much impossible?
@@obliterate1332 I would fill both the holes (with wood) and drill a new one. If all else fails, you might be able to drill a hole outside, between the outer cheek and the peghead (the string would not have such a straight path to the nut, but at least it would be pulling the peg in the right direction, making it less likely to slip). Eventually, you might want to get someone to make a new treble rider with a bigger slot - I tend to make mine about 4.5mm.
I prefer gut strings for all types of lute. The thinner strings (up to, say, 1mm diameter) are never a problem except it can be difficult finding strong enough first strings. Basses are more difficult - you can use all-gut strings like the "pistoy" strings from Gamut Music, or some other manufacturers. Synthetic bass strings can be useful, like the CD strings from Aquila, or KF from Savarez, both of which are more dense than gut and can therefore be thinner. I try to avoid metal-wound strings because they were never used historically and can give a very unbalanced sound on lutes with extended basses.
@@luteshop thank you so much for your answer Martin. I tried La Bella strings but they rip (maybe I not have learned how to tighten properly yet) we have a problem in our country to get specialized strings for the lute and I thought maybe there are some good alternative options equivalent in sound quality now I'm thinking of trying Aquila strings
@@ultramegaviolence If the string breaks at the bridge, it could be because there is a sharp edge somewhere. The same applies to the nut. Another thing to remember is to always slacken off the string a little bit before pulling it up to a higher pitch, otherwise the tension between the peg and the nut can be too great. Finally, the pitch should be appropriate for the string length - no higher than G for 60cm, F# for 63cm, F for 67cm.
@@luteshop Martin, thank you so much for your answers and for what you are doing. I will sort this out. I think I will order a lot of kits and I will train, I probably need to polish the threshold carefully with sandpaper. Thank you so much for your answers.
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Thank you SO much, Martin! Please keep making move videos! There are so few individuals who know the lute anymore. In places like the states there are even times I have been asked by luthiers at shops "What is that?" Your efforts are touching more lives than you will ever realize. Thank you again!
Thank you for the useful tips!👍❤️🎼🎵🎶🎸
Very helpful! Tips like this are very helpful to aspiring lutenists. Thanks!
When I changed strings on my guitar, I changed all of them one by one. I didn't remove them all at once, I only removed the one I was changing, tuned it, then detuned and removed the next one. I don't have a lute yet, so I haven't changed strings on one yet, but this is great advice!
Great resource !Thanks Martin .Follow your series of videos .
Thank you SO much, Martin.
Thanks a lot!
Thank you Martin for your useful tips! Perhaps you could produce a video about how to deal with "sticky" tuning pegs? Thanks.
I have a lute (a "guitar-lute" actually) tuned like a guitar (6 strings); it's been sold with classical guitar strings on and I don't like the sound (too much like a classical or flamenca guitar). Any advice on strings Brand I could put on that would match the required E-A-D-G-B-E tuning and give a better lute sound. Should I buy strings individually or does a set exist?Thank you
hi martin I want to make a lute do you have any tips where I can get the stuff to make it?
I recommend David Van Edwards ("build yourself a lute") courses: www.vanedwards.co.uk/renlute.htm
The course is not expensive and he gives excellent advice, including where to get materials.
Is it possible to use ordinarly nylon guitar strings for the lute? E.g. an E-string for the top that is tuned to a g'?
No - even the thinnest guitar strings are too thick for the lute. Lutes come in many different sizes and tunings (the top string is not always g') and so need many different sizes of strings. Lutes also use a variety of string tensions, but they are all much less than on the guitar. For example, a lute tuned with the top string at g' would typically have a string length of about 59-60cm and would use a string of about .45mm in nylon or .42mm in gut. String tensions vary a lot but for this same (quite small) lute most of the courses (pairs of strings) would have a tension of about 25 Newtons per string. The top string, being usually single, would have a higher tension. There are several suppliers of nylon and other strings for lutes which are listed on (for example) www.lutesociety.org and www.lutesocietyofamerica.org
Do you think Lute strings could handle gear pegs instead of friction? I recently bought a lute that was custom made and wanted to make sure lute strings could with gear pegs so I dont waste anymore money than I need.
Friction pegs are fine as long as they are well fitted. You can now buy geared pegs where the gears are internal so they look like normal pegs, but they are heavier. Gears also make the process of attaching a new string much slower. The problem with tuning the lute is nearly always to do with the friction over the nut, rather than the pegs.
Any tips/videos for tying strings on the 1st string (the one with it's peg sticking out of the pegbox)? I'm having a bit of trouble with mine
I think you must mean the string on a treble rider? There's not much space to wind a lot of string onto the peg, so you might want to just pull the string through the hole in the peg (with the string slightly loose) and by the time you've got the string up to pitch there will be just a few turns on the peg. Be careful that the string doesn't touch the cheeks of the treble rider or you might have problems with the peg slipping. Another problem with treble riders is if the peg has pushed through a bit the hole might be uncomfortably close to the cheek, so you might need to drill another hole.
Thanks for your response. Ah yes! I didn't know what they were called. I've recently acquired an old 8 course lute (made by a maker named Reither in 1960 with a new sound board and bridge added/made by another luthier, R. E. Brune, ca. 1985). I've only seen them on 10+ course lutes but this instrument has a string length of 625mm which I think may be a reason for it. The opening on the rider itself is also far thinner than any I've seen on other instruments which makes it difficult to put a string through. It's about the size of a coin slot. I've been having issues with keeping a string on it for exactly the issue you mentioned (peg slipping). There seems to already be an another hole drilled into it but unfortunately it's too close to the first hole making it almost redundant. Would there be anything else I could try to get a string on there or does the treble rider make it pretty much impossible?
@@obliterate1332 I would fill both the holes (with wood) and drill a new one. If all else fails, you might be able to drill a hole outside, between the outer cheek and the peghead (the string would not have such a straight path to the nut, but at least it would be pulling the peg in the right direction, making it less likely to slip). Eventually, you might want to get someone to make a new treble rider with a bigger slot - I tend to make mine about 4.5mm.
@@luteshop I’ll try these out. I assume this is not a common thing with Renaissance lutes. I appreciate the advice. Thank you very much!
Hello. What kind (brand) of strings do you recommend for 6Course Renaissance Lute ? Thanks a lot
I prefer gut strings for all types of lute. The thinner strings (up to, say, 1mm diameter) are never a problem except it can be difficult finding strong enough first strings. Basses are more difficult - you can use all-gut strings like the "pistoy" strings from Gamut Music, or some other manufacturers. Synthetic bass strings can be useful, like the CD strings from Aquila, or KF from Savarez, both of which are more dense than gut and can therefore be thinner. I try to avoid metal-wound strings because they were never used historically and can give a very unbalanced sound on lutes with extended basses.
@@luteshop thank you so much for your answer Martin. I tried La Bella strings but they rip (maybe I not have learned how to tighten properly yet)
we have a problem in our country to get specialized strings for the lute and I thought maybe there are some good alternative options equivalent in sound quality
now I'm thinking of trying Aquila strings
@@luteshop the real problem is the first string, which constantly breaks))))) perhaps it can be replaced with a guitar or another stronger one
@@ultramegaviolence If the string breaks at the bridge, it could be because there is a sharp edge somewhere. The same applies to the nut. Another thing to remember is to always slacken off the string a little bit before pulling it up to a higher pitch, otherwise the tension between the peg and the nut can be too great. Finally, the pitch should be appropriate for the string length - no higher than G for 60cm, F# for 63cm, F for 67cm.
@@luteshop Martin, thank you so much for your answers and for what you are doing. I will sort this out. I think I will order a lot of kits and I will train, I probably need to polish the threshold carefully with sandpaper.
Thank you so much for your answers.
Not that often? gut strings go so quick.