Modern thieves are more likely to get in via the central locking than picking a key lock as the latter still activates the alarm while scanning the CL signal from the key fob deactivates the alarm and the immobiliser. But if you really have concerns about the key locks, you can just disconnect them from their linkages without replacing the handles, or just fit rear door handles from a 110 if you want the barrels gone. If you like the Optimill handles, fair enough, but they have no security element to them.
Nice for looks, not for security. You can slim jim the door on a Defender. If you've got experience you can open a door in a Defender in less time that it takes to open your case of lockpicks. You need to do something with the mechanism to prevent entry.
Looks pretty but for 140 quid a door handle it should!! If you want a keyless no pick lock just fill the original key hole with super glue cost about 20p
You can do that and it’ll look like it costs 20p, or you can pay £140 and it’ll look like £140, difference in opinion and some people enjoy enhancing their vehicles cosmetically
Great video, where is the rust coming from?, Defender door skins are Aluminium and the handle is plastic. I think that rust was from the steel mechanism attached to the handle.
It looked more like copper slip grease to me, not corrosion on the interiors mechanism. Having said that, it does look like a steel door skin. Also rust converter only works on Steel Rust and not on Aluminium oxide. It seems that some later Defenders had all steel doors.
Hi looks great thanks for taking the time to post the video. I bought 4x for my 110 one with a lock for the drivers door. It’s a 2.2 Puma so may be slightly different but the one with the lock doesn’t quite fit. Did you have any issues? Slight gaps where the door recess for your fingers is and holes didn’t quite line up? Thanks Paul
The only issue I had was fitting the handles with the locks, once the door card was removed, the other handles without the locks took max 15 mins each to fit. However, It was definitely more of a fiddle to locate the locked versions in the slot and then I also had to file the hole in the door slightly wider so the rear of the lock barrel pushed all of the way through, I even rounded off the nut ever so slightly which clamps the lock barrel so it fitted through smoothly.
@@jackmerner hi Jack yes agree without the locks all fine and straightforward. Had to do exactly the same with the exception of rounding the nut off. I was a bit disappointed as expected plug and play so to speak and for £140+ each they should have been. Thanks for the reply btw 👍
@@paule314 I think there's probably too much variation with land rovers to get it right every time, my front passenger door was definitely less of a issue than my front drivers door but both required alterations. Maybe a better design on the rear of the lock ? If that would even be possible. Have you fitted their hinges aswell ? replacing the clip on captive nuts to the bulkhead is the most annoying and time consuming thing ever for what it is 🤣 especially when one drops inside!
@@thedoctorsgarage Puma, more desirable to thieves apparently. my fix was a metal grill and mesh back to prevent them from getting to the release cable, which seems to work. oh and don't forget the indicator weakness to disable the alarm.......
I e made that mistake before with a 90 and a 110 county. This time I’m looking for a 110 hardtop. Two doors and two windows yet still have the load space. Countless hours fighting water ingress and rusty doors will be saved 🤞
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Modern thieves are more likely to get in via the central locking than picking a key lock as the latter still activates the alarm while scanning the CL signal from the key fob deactivates the alarm and the immobiliser. But if you really have concerns about the key locks, you can just disconnect them from their linkages without replacing the handles, or just fit rear door handles from a 110 if you want the barrels gone. If you like the Optimill handles, fair enough, but they have no security element to them.
To be fair I do love the look and feel of the Optimill gear compared to the original plastic 👌🏻👌🏻
Looks great. I also appreciate that you took time and effort to deal with the rust and paint work. Well done!
Thanks Jerry- it was not the best spray job but I’m pleased with it
Hi Doc, well done on another great job.
Regards Peter.
👌🏻thanks Peter
Their kit is lovely, expensive but you get what you pay for. Truck is looking on point on the outside
Thanks Mark 👌🏻👌🏻
Nice door handles Doc.....I'm saying nothing about the spray job!
😂😂😂
Great upgrade Doc loving how it’s all coming together now…. But I’m sure there’s lots more you want to do lol 😝 👍👍👍👍
Thanks- love the Optimill gear ⚙️ so much more they do too 😁
Hi Dic, love the new handles they well engineered and great gloss black too . Regards mark
Cheers Mark! 👌🏻👌🏻
Nice for looks, not for security. You can slim jim the door on a Defender. If you've got experience you can open a door in a Defender in less time that it takes to open your case of lockpicks. You need to do something with the mechanism to prevent entry.
Just had to Google Slim Jim- I can see how that would work to be fair- almost need to seal off the weather strip so you can’t get it down
Looking good doc 👍
Thanks 🙏🏼🙏🏼
Very smart, looks great 👍🏻
Cheers Dave 🙏🏼🙏🏼
Looks pretty but for 140 quid a door handle it should!! If you want a keyless no pick lock just fill the original key hole with super glue cost about 20p
The aluminium is juts so much better to look and and feel than the old plastic ones!
You can do that and it’ll look like it costs 20p, or you can pay £140 and it’ll look like £140, difference in opinion and some people enjoy enhancing their vehicles cosmetically
Nice job.
👌🏻 cheers Grahame
Great video as always. You put everything you used in the description below except the handles. 😂
😂😂 that’s true I’ll add them- they are straight off the Optimill website 👌🏻👌🏻
Great video, where is the rust coming from?, Defender door skins are Aluminium and the handle is plastic. I think that rust was from the steel mechanism attached to the handle.
Thanks Dave- Yea it looks like the old
Mechanism and bolts used to hold it to the door has spread it on to the door - I’m
Hoping it doesn’t come back!
It looked more like copper slip grease to me, not corrosion on the interiors mechanism. Having said that, it does look like a steel door skin. Also rust converter only works on Steel Rust and not on Aluminium oxide. It seems that some later Defenders had all steel doors.
Will you do anymore optimill items? Hinges, number plate light, power steering reservoir 🤔
Hi Kiri I’ve done hinges- one of the recent security videos- would like to do those other items too!
A little backwards for a security mod to delete the key lock. But looks good 👌
🙏🏼🙏🏼 one less thing to pick/drill out!
You say you ''can get in through the boot/back door'' if the central locking fails, so can a thief
True yes but the rear door lock is much better built than the front ones from factory so I feel it’s. A bit safer than previous 👌🏻👌🏻
Hi looks great thanks for taking the time to post the video. I bought 4x for my 110 one with a lock for the drivers door. It’s a 2.2 Puma so may be slightly different but the one with the lock doesn’t quite fit. Did you have any issues? Slight gaps where the door recess for your fingers is and holes didn’t quite line up? Thanks Paul
I didn’t personally- maybe speak to Optimill about it- I’m sure they will help you out?
The only issue I had was fitting the handles with the locks, once the door card was removed, the other handles without the locks took max 15 mins each to fit. However, It was definitely more of a fiddle to locate the locked versions in the slot and then I also had to file the hole in the door slightly wider so the rear of the lock barrel pushed all of the way through, I even rounded off the nut ever so slightly which clamps the lock barrel so it fitted through smoothly.
@@jackmerner hi Jack yes agree without the locks all fine and straightforward. Had to do exactly the same with the exception of rounding the nut off. I was a bit disappointed as expected plug and play so to speak and for £140+ each they should have been. Thanks for the reply btw 👍
@@paule314 I think there's probably too much variation with land rovers to get it right every time, my front passenger door was definitely less of a issue than my front drivers door but both required alterations. Maybe a better design on the rear of the lock ? If that would even be possible.
Have you fitted their hinges aswell ? replacing the clip on captive nuts to the bulkhead is the most annoying and time consuming thing ever for what it is 🤣 especially when one drops inside!
Is there anything for the rear door handle/catch?
When you getting that Roof Rack and the Side Steps? 😂
👌🏻
Looks good, have you thought about the Bonnet? - another easily stolen part (as I found out 😡)
Yes next on the list- sorry to hear yours went- was it a puma or a TD5 bonnet?
@@thedoctorsgarage Puma, more desirable to thieves apparently. my fix was a metal grill and mesh back to prevent them from getting to the release cable, which seems to work. oh and don't forget the indicator weakness to disable the alarm.......
I’ve heard about this indicator light before
Wish I’d bought a 90....too many handles/ hinges on the 110 😭😭
I e made that mistake before with a 90 and a 110 county. This time I’m looking for a 110 hardtop. Two doors and two windows yet still have the load space. Countless hours fighting water ingress and rusty doors will be saved 🤞
That’s true- I would love a 110 but the fear of double the work does put me off!
Do you have a discount code for optimill?
Unfortunately I don’t… but would appreciate you saying you saw it here if you do buy so we can get one!