I am Peter from Australia and I purchase one when I was in the US, Couldn't agree more about the staff from DRO-Pro. Great unit so I bought 2 one for the Mill and another for the lathe. Working great.
Bummer, the video ended. Oh well, I will stay tuned for the "rest of the story". Great video indeed on a awesome lathe. This DRO looks to be a great addition. Thanks for the video and information.
When you do a job like that it makes you envious of those guys who have square saddle and cross slides. All of those curves get in the way. My Craftsman lathe has the same curved surfaces that were popular on earlier machines. Looks like you will be first class in measurement soon. Thanks for sharing.
I must admit that when you cut that slot on the beautiful cross-slide of that beautiful lathe you set my teeth on edge :) What is he doing? Taking a machete to Miss America? But when it was all done, it looked quite at home, sort of what South Bend would do if they had DROs back in the 60s. Very nice job. And very instrutive as well.
Nope ! Would not be willing to mill out chunks from old British lathe components in order to fit a D.R.O. Would study and measure things for days/weeks/ months till I developed a plan. There is always a way.
I heard you mention a DRO in your most recent video and I thought to myself, "I don't remember his 13" having a DRO..." Now I know I wasn't crazy. Great timing--my 16" should be coming together by Christmas and a DRO is high on my list of post-resto additions. Thanks for detailing it!
Hello Brad, this was very useful to me as I have recently purchased a 13' SB with taper attachment and I am wanting to add a DRO....thank you so much......and yes, I agree with ABOM, your restoration is immaculate.....Cheers from Florida, Paul
New to your channel and have to agree with Adam,,that one nice looking and clean SB...I see your tapper attachment is like mine,,at full travel just pass center, mine pass over a window seal, but hits the window if carriage is to the tail stock. Any way, I am going to install a DRO and will contact DRO Pros, and from your input.. I will come back to watch more on your install,,,busy as Bull Dog chasing his tail,,,(@@)! Bear in TX.
Aren't you going to need some clearance between the back of the scale and the wide part of the cross-slide? That scale sensor needs a bit of room behind the scale, I think.
Hi, Great job, and thank you for going to the trouble of making this video for everybody! I'm interested in installing a DRO Pros kit on my Clausing-Colchester 13, so I'm looking for any howto info I can find. Your video is super informative, and I haven't even watched the whole thing yet. Granted, your South Bend appears to have a bit more clearance between the top of the carriage and the compound. On my Colchester the cross slide casting is just really thin; so it's going to be a bit tricky to fit the scale, and the cover in there - and still be able to turn the compound... Finally, wow, what a nice-looking lathe! And I thought I was insane, having spent way too much time restoring my own little South Bend 9A... And it's still not looking as fancy as yours. :)
Hi mate.Nice installation, I must confess mine was a little easier, but what are you going to do with the tail-stock. The installation will be sticking out a fair while. The tail-stock will be bumping into the reader, and it's reach will be rather reduced. I had that same problem.
+kooldoozer Good eye - but it's not a mistake. It was from a DRO that I ("was") in the process of mounting. One that decided to return and not install. I just didn't like the prior one and returned it.
Great video Brad....sure wish my place looked more like an institution, as far as cleanliness! Not sure if you mentioned it or not .....are you using a magnetic or glass scale. I have seen some use the glass scales on their mill, and magnetic on their lathe, for a reason I fail to recall....smaller profile, I guess, and I think with a magnetic you can cut to length, and a glass scale needs to be sized initially.....I would assume the cross-slide would be considered the Y, and the carriage direction the X ?
There are also the rotational and linear motions of the Compound to consider. I'm not sure what their designations would be. They rarely get DROs, however.
watching you cut into that taper attachment....my god...lol...why, why, why?! *grins* seriously though, going forward what if you need to use that for well um tapered turning.... also, those dials have to be the sexiest frikken dials ive ever seen on a SB. after market? you make? my lathes a series o 1928 with tiny lil dials...
good idea, and the result will be acceptable, of course, and the measurement is going to be true and correct. but the actual execution of work looks like a temporary kluge in a disaster area. sorry. if that lathe were a dog, it would have bite you, and run away.
+BasementShopGuy here it is, rephrased.an engineering design must not only be functional, but also raional, and aesthetically pleasing.the horizontal support plank is plenty strong for the ruler if it is 0.187 thick. the rear support allows for the parallelism rotational adjustment. the front support deals with the windage. neither one should deal with both adjustments, for it would make the construction cluttered. the fitment of the rear plank into the milled slot should be exact, - without gaps, and attached with a flat-head screw. for the slot of 0.687, thebest screw would be nf #12-28. the best screw for the rotating block is accurate flat-head shoulder screw, also nf #12-28. this will position the block on rotation freedom only - that's good for precision adjustment.the length of the plank shall be determined by attaching a 24" machinist square short leg to the longitudinal ways. that shall be done high enough to be able to scribe a precise line on the plank.the front support is heavier - it is in the work area, and may be bumped. the extending is to be made shorter for, say, 0.015, and the actual extension is determined only when the rear support is complete. the widage adjustment is the duty of the bront support, and it is done by installing the precise spacers of precision stock.all this is to be carefully thought out on paper and with strength of materials in consideration, so the final result is to be a reason to show off, and be proud about.i admit i was a little harsh onyour work. your pristine and beautiful lathe, i thought, deserved a better treatment.-toly
Good work there Brad! Man that sure is one pretty South Bend!
I am Peter from Australia and I purchase one when I was in the US, Couldn't agree more about the staff from DRO-Pro.
Great unit so I bought 2 one for the Mill and another for the lathe.
Working great.
Bummer, the video ended. Oh well, I will stay tuned for the "rest of the story". Great video indeed on a awesome lathe. This DRO looks to be a great addition. Thanks for the video and information.
When you do a job like that it makes you envious of those guys who have square saddle and cross slides. All of those curves get in the way. My Craftsman lathe has the same curved surfaces that were popular on earlier machines. Looks like you will be first class in measurement soon. Thanks for sharing.
I must admit that when you cut that slot on the beautiful cross-slide of that beautiful lathe you set my teeth on edge :) What is he doing? Taking a machete to Miss America? But when it was all done, it looked quite at home, sort of what South Bend would do if they had DROs back in the 60s. Very nice job. And very instrutive as well.
+Juan Rivero It gave me anxiety.
Nope !
Would not be willing to mill out chunks from old British lathe components in order to fit a D.R.O.
Would study and measure things for days/weeks/ months till I developed a plan.
There is always a way.
Great job very clean install, I put an EL300 on the mill/drill and another on the 10x22 lathe both from DroPros good folks. ready for part 2,,
I heard you mention a DRO in your most recent video and I thought to myself, "I don't remember his 13" having a DRO..." Now I know I wasn't crazy. Great timing--my 16" should be coming together by Christmas and a DRO is high on my list of post-resto additions. Thanks for detailing it!
Great selection on DRO you have purchased. Installed same model on my milling machine, love it. Ready to see the rest of you install. good luck.John
That Lathe is like a Cadillac with all the options on it.
Hello Brad, this was very useful to me as I have recently purchased a 13' SB with taper attachment and I am wanting to add a DRO....thank you so much......and yes, I agree with ABOM, your restoration is immaculate.....Cheers from Florida, Paul
Nice job so far Brad, looking forward to the rest of the installation.
Great job so far Brad!
you deserve WAYY MORE views , likes and subscribers .... !! very underated your videos ! subscribed .! congrats ..!
Great video,I plan on getting the same DRO for my Bridgeport
Very cool Brad... Very cool....! Thanks, Daniel.
You sure made that look easy
Good job on that, love it!
Nice job, thanks for shearing.
New to your channel and have to agree with Adam,,that one nice looking and clean SB...I see your tapper attachment is like mine,,at full travel just pass center, mine pass over a window seal, but hits the window if carriage is to the tail stock. Any way, I am going to install a DRO and will contact DRO Pros, and from your input.. I will come back to watch more on your install,,,busy as Bull Dog chasing his tail,,,(@@)! Bear in TX.
Aren't you going to need some clearance between the back of the scale and the wide part of the cross-slide? That scale sensor needs a bit of room behind the scale, I think.
brad nice job.
Hi,
Great job, and thank you for going to the trouble of making this video for everybody! I'm interested in installing a DRO Pros kit on my Clausing-Colchester 13, so I'm looking for any howto info I can find. Your video is super informative, and I haven't even watched the whole thing yet. Granted, your South Bend appears to have a bit more clearance between the top of the carriage and the compound. On my Colchester the cross slide casting is just really thin; so it's going to be a bit tricky to fit the scale, and the cover in there - and still be able to turn the compound...
Finally, wow, what a nice-looking lathe! And I thought I was insane, having spent way too much time restoring my own little South Bend 9A... And it's still not looking as fancy as yours. :)
Thanks Leonid, appreciate that!
Hi mate.Nice installation, I must confess mine was a little easier, but what are you going to do with the tail-stock. The installation will be sticking out a fair while. The tail-stock will be bumping into the reader, and it's reach will be rather reduced. I had that same problem.
.....money well spent, you will not regret it.............now...when is the 1hp coming out....come on Brad.....you know it has to happen.........lol
Is that a FUBAR extra slot milled in the rear mounting area? Measure twice.
+kooldoozer Good eye - but it's not a mistake. It was from a DRO that I ("was") in the process of mounting. One that decided to return and not install. I just didn't like the prior one and returned it.
Great video Brad....sure wish my place looked more like an institution, as far as cleanliness! Not sure if you mentioned it or not .....are you using a magnetic or glass scale. I have seen some use the glass scales on their mill, and magnetic on their lathe, for a reason I fail to recall....smaller profile, I guess, and I think with a magnetic you can cut to length, and a glass scale needs to be sized initially.....I would assume the cross-slide would be considered the Y, and the carriage direction the X ?
+Jim Liechty Cross-slide is X and carriage is Z (along the axis of the spindle). No Y on a lathe, at least not on a lathe with only two motions.
+Jim Liechty Those are magnetic scales, and DroPros usually gives you a 1 micron scale for the cross slide.
+Peter W. Meek Thanks Peter
+Peter W. Meek A milling attachment would be an example of a Y axis on a lathe.
There are also the rotational and linear motions of the Compound to consider. I'm not sure what their designations would be. They rarely get DROs, however.
Why not use piece thick of angle iron, and just face each side?
watching you cut into that taper attachment....my god...lol...why, why, why?! *grins*
seriously though, going forward what if you need to use that for well um tapered turning....
also, those dials have to be the sexiest frikken dials ive ever seen on a SB. after market? you make? my lathes a series o 1928 with tiny lil dials...
gj
good idea, and the result will be acceptable, of course, and the measurement is going to be true and correct.
but the actual execution of work looks like a temporary kluge in a disaster area. sorry.
if that lathe were a dog, it would have bite you, and run away.
+Toly Dukhovny I'm sorry, I not following your direction of comments?
+BasementShopGuy
here it is, rephrased.an engineering design must not
only be functional, but also raional, and aesthetically pleasing.the horizontal support plank is plenty
strong for the ruler if it is 0.187 thick. the rear support allows for the
parallelism rotational adjustment. the front support deals with the windage. neither one should deal with both adjustments, for it would make the construction cluttered. the fitment of the rear plank into the milled slot should be exact, - without gaps, and attached with a flat-head screw. for the slot of 0.687, thebest screw would be nf #12-28. the best screw for the rotating block is accurate flat-head shoulder screw, also nf #12-28. this will position the block on rotation freedom only - that's good for precision adjustment.the length of the plank shall be determined by attaching a 24" machinist square short leg to the longitudinal ways. that shall be done high enough to be able to scribe a precise line on the plank.the front support is heavier - it is in the work area, and may be bumped. the extending is to be made shorter for, say, 0.015, and the actual extension is determined only when the rear support is complete. the widage adjustment is the duty of the bront support, and it is done by installing the precise spacers of precision stock.all this is to be carefully thought out on paper and with strength of materials in consideration, so the final result is to be a reason to show off, and be proud about.i admit i was a little harsh onyour work. your pristine and beautiful lathe, i thought, deserved a better
treatment.-toly
+Toly Dukhovny uh... i got nothing.
+BasementShopGuy cannot explain my point -- provided i had one -- any better.
let's agree to leave it at that.