I thought about buying a big old van, and working out the back of that, but having something without needing drive two hours to get too means life’s a bit easier. Plus a smaller newer smarter vans easier to park👌
I wish the hinge depth guides were smaller so I can go deeper on custom doors, there's a couple of updates they can definitely make for this skeleton jig, but overall it's the best one I've used
When I swing a door I’ve always known as was taught to plane a slight leading edge on the hinge side to stop it becoming bound....... if you was to do that this jig wouldn’t work would it as the depth set on the router wouldn’t be equal?? ...... also the lock side if you put a leading edge there to finish the door flush and tight (not that I do that but it is the right thing to do)
I rarely need to bevel the hinge side of a door, if it's shot in correctly then there's enough clearance, If you need to plane a bevel (generally on the latch side), you can still do this. The jig is best for renovations on very old linings where the door can be all kinds of shape, tapered, twisted to fit the lining..... the jig still fits fine.
Your supposed to take the leading edge off the hinge side and the closing side. I do this by using a bevelled side fence on my planer.you can still use the skeleton jig.
Great in depth video and very informative thank you. I hope I've got this right? You mentioned the 1/4" hole to assist tightening the stops on the short section. If the parts are available could you not drill them yourself or order the order the pre-drilled ones? Just a thought. 10/10 by the way!
Will this work with a fixed base router? I've only seen plunge routers being referenced. Also, what about those bradles/awls? Did they hold up? Lots of complaints about those falling apart. Good vid.
Great video. My improvement suggestion would be for them to think about a way for the jig to be held in place with clamps rather than the braddels. They leave awful holes in the door and door frame. Not a good look!
That's been an argument for a while now, but honestly, when so many frames are painted, and the hoes are all pretty small, it's not worth the bother.... but there are ways around it when you really need to.
Yeh the new skeleton hinge jig holds a lot easier but still potential hole issues , I just use my own screws they barely leave a mark in truth and as Brainfizz states once painted etc even the most high end picky customers rarely notice anything
Yeah it’s great for replacement doors as there complete adjustability with it. I generally get the door shit it first, set the jig to the existing lining, tidy up the generally nasty old painted hinge mortice there, and then transfer to the door itself. Saves a lot of repair work to the lining then. If the linings are really bad you can cut some Dutchmen from offcuts and use them like you would a hinge to route the areas need to repair and speed up the repairs too✅
i have festool 2200 router, i'm assuming i can use that with this jig? and i dont understand why you need use a different shank cutter to a normal straight cutter used for doing worktop joints?
Worktop cutters are 1.2" shanks, because the routers are bigger and more powerful for cutting through a 2" worktop. for hinges can be 1/2" shank to, but the routers are huge a little big for welding above your head routing the door linings....
no, th ea bearing guided cutter will not only give you the wrong size cut, because you're not allowing for the 2mm offset, but your far more likely to damage the expensive jig.
I dunno, all seems a bit of a faff. I mean, put the door in the hole, mark the hinges, put the door on the floor, Stanley around the hinges, chisel out, do the frame. It’s quite quick. Is this any quicker?
depends if you're planning to only ever hang a single door, or if your hanging loads of doors, either on a single job, or loads of jobs over several years.
Hi. Great video. I've got one of these coming tomorrow and have the same router. I didn't quite understand why you need the sub base. I want top start using this Monday and don't want any problems could you elaborate if possible?
Road Runner ok so basically, the T4 has a slightly different 16mm guide bush to use with this jig - in simple terms because the body and base can separate there can be a slight difference in position each time the two are assembled, or movement over time. This means the guise bush is guaranteed to be concentric to the cutter, so your cuts can be slightly out. To get around this the guudebuse recommended is the GB160. The mounting is adjustable so you can align it by eye to the cutter.... this mounts direct to the base. For all the other routers the standard GB16 is used... you can use GB16 on the T4 but you might get a little misaligned. Otherwise use the base plate (I used this because I had the GB16, a T4 and just happened to already have a base plate. Hope this makes sense. UPDATED GB160 is the long spigot guise bush for this jig. Fixes with countersink screws to align it. The T4 guide bush if no additional base plate/ sub base is used is GB/T4/160
@@BrainFizz Yeah I think I'm with you. Would it be fair to say if i don't use the guide base it would not be the end of the world. It's just not sure i can get one before monday? Also another thing you might be able to help with what size screws do i need for the GB I've lost mine? Thanks for the reply
Personally I think so. The skeleton jig is completely adjustable…. I work alot in homes that have hinges in odd places, where the Jig/A either would fit or outside of its adjustment scope….. if your house bashing or working new builds it’s not a problem though.
Random question - can this hinge jig be used with the t4 straight out of the box ? You lost me with why you have fitted the sub base . The t4 comes with the correct size guide bush so why the base ?
it can, but the T4 probably won't be concentric to the guide bush, the sub base i used was centred, the other guide bush i mention is adjustable on the t4 base plate.
John Groves if you head on over to the trend website, trend-uk.com and set the currency/location to Canada, it will show you whats available in your region. I'm not 100% on this, but I think it's still just the 2 and 3 piece hinge jigs in your neck of the woods.
Tom Thorns Not sure to be honest, as I've never needed to use it in this way. Best to contact Trend direct - their tech support is ace. I guess it will boil down to the thickness of the door, and hence the depth of the rebate on the frame.
+uncomnizm that's right, the doors had the hinges routed out, the 18mm lead ply was laminated on after, the picture shows the doors, there is also a clear image in the article I wrote about this on my website.
+Sergey GreatDayPhoto 😃 OK, I admit my reply was a little sarcastic, but tongue in cheek at the same time. Lol. Seriously though this video is an old one, and an early one of mine. All my old ones were recorded on my mobile phone. I do now use a dale, with a shotgun mic fitted. As things grew I upgraded, because you're right audio wasn't the best, and I did decide to make it better. Hopefully I didn't come across too much of a deuce previously. 😜 All is good this end.👍
It is still independent, as I still get to say exactly what I want without input from (in this case), trend. It just means you don’t believe me when I say tell you that. Feel free to buy your own and make your own decision 👌
Do you know how this compares to the Porter Cable jig? Is there an efficient way to adapt the use of this skeleton jig for 8' 4-hinge doors? Thanks in advance
You can get the individual parts separately as spares, so If I were doing lots of really large doors, I'd get the separate parts to make a "third extender piece" that I could add in the middle for my longer section and hence fourth hinge, other wise I would probably line this up for three of the four hinges and free hand the fourth..
Love this BrainJizz. Love your workshop too
I thought about buying a big old van, and working out the back of that, but having something without needing drive two hours to get too means life’s a bit easier. Plus a smaller newer smarter vans easier to park👌
It's nice to see a down-to-earth and well-balanced review. Keep up the good work.
I wish the hinge depth guides were smaller so I can go deeper on custom doors, there's a couple of updates they can definitely make for this skeleton jig, but overall it's the best one I've used
Good clear delivery with lots of information. Thank you.
You are welcome!
When I swing a door I’ve always known as was taught to plane a slight leading edge on the hinge side to stop it becoming bound....... if you was to do that this jig wouldn’t work would it as the depth set on the router wouldn’t be equal?? ...... also the lock side if you put a leading edge there to finish the door flush and tight (not that I do that but it is the right thing to do)
I rarely need to bevel the hinge side of a door, if it's shot in correctly then there's enough clearance, If you need to plane a bevel (generally on the latch side), you can still do this.
The jig is best for renovations on very old linings where the door can be all kinds of shape, tapered, twisted to fit the lining..... the jig still fits fine.
Youv been taught wrong 😂😂 you sure he wasn't the closing edge??
Your supposed to take the leading edge off the hinge side and the closing side. I do this by using a bevelled side fence on my planer.you can still use the skeleton jig.
Great in depth video and very informative thank you. I hope I've got this right? You mentioned the 1/4" hole to assist tightening the stops on the short section. If the parts are available could you not drill them yourself or order the order the pre-drilled ones? Just a thought. 10/10 by the way!
Seems a must have I'll be buying one very informative video cheers 😎
Will this work with a fixed base router? I've only seen plunge routers being referenced. Also, what about those bradles/awls? Did they hold up? Lots of complaints about those falling apart. Good vid.
Great video. My improvement suggestion would be for them to think about a way for the jig to be held in place with clamps rather than the braddels. They leave awful holes in the door and door frame. Not a good look!
That's been an argument for a while now, but honestly, when so many frames are painted, and the hoes are all pretty small, it's not worth the bother.... but there are ways around it when you really need to.
Yeh the new skeleton hinge jig holds a lot easier but still potential hole issues , I just use my own screws they barely leave a mark in truth and as Brainfizz states once painted etc even the most high end picky customers rarely notice anything
I clamp mine to the door using two 3 way g clamps, it leaves no holes to fill.
Looks a great bit of kit, so I have just ordered one for 7 replacement doors I need to hang in a customers house.
Yeah it’s great for replacement doors as there complete adjustability with it. I generally get the door shit it first, set the jig to the existing lining, tidy up the generally nasty old painted hinge mortice there, and then transfer to the door itself. Saves a lot of repair work to the lining then. If the linings are really bad you can cut some Dutchmen from offcuts and use them like you would a hinge to route the areas need to repair and speed up the repairs too✅
i have festool 2200 router, i'm assuming i can use that with this jig? and i dont understand why you need use a different shank cutter to a normal straight cutter used for doing worktop joints?
Worktop cutters are 1.2" shanks, because the routers are bigger and more powerful for cutting through a 2" worktop. for hinges can be 1/2" shank to, but the routers are huge a little big for welding above your head routing the door linings....
Can you use a trim router with a bit that has the bearing right on the bit? Or do you need to use the guide no matter what?
no, th ea bearing guided cutter will not only give you the wrong size cut, because you're not allowing for the 2mm offset, but your far more likely to damage the expensive jig.
@@BrainFizz Thanks for the response! I bought the jig, and it came with right size template for my Makita trim router.
I dunno, all seems a bit of a faff. I mean, put the door in the hole, mark the hinges, put the door on the floor, Stanley around the hinges, chisel out, do the frame. It’s quite quick. Is this any quicker?
depends if you're planning to only ever hang a single door, or if your hanging loads of doors, either on a single job, or loads of jobs over several years.
Hi. Great video. I've got one of these coming tomorrow and have the same router. I didn't quite understand why you need the sub base. I want top start using this Monday and don't want any problems could you elaborate if possible?
You’re using the trend T4?
@@BrainFizz Yes
Road Runner ok so basically, the T4 has a slightly different 16mm guide bush to use with this jig - in simple terms because the body and base can separate there can be a slight difference in position each time the two are assembled, or movement over time. This means the guise bush is guaranteed to be concentric to the cutter, so your cuts can be slightly out.
To get around this the guudebuse recommended is the GB160. The mounting is adjustable so you can align it by eye to the cutter.... this mounts direct to the base.
For all the other routers the standard GB16 is used... you can use GB16 on the T4 but you might get a little misaligned.
Otherwise use the base plate (I used this because I had the GB16, a T4 and just happened to already have a base plate. Hope this makes sense.
UPDATED
GB160 is the long spigot guise bush for this jig. Fixes with countersink screws to align it. The T4 guide bush if no additional base plate/ sub base is used is GB/T4/160
@@BrainFizz Yeah I think I'm with you. Would it be fair to say if i don't use the guide base it would not be the end of the world. It's just not sure i can get one before monday?
Also another thing you might be able to help with what size screws do i need for the GB I've lost mine?
Thanks for the reply
@@BrainFizz OK I ordered all the bits. I probably would have come a little unstuck were it not or your video. Thanks loads for your help
Would say for example a cordless DeWalt router work well with jig or are their particular router types that must be used with this?
As long as the router can fit a 16mm guide bush in the base, then you it doesn’t matter if router is powered from a battery or the Wall socket.
Why so many dislikes?
no idea?!
Is the skeleton one better than the other one the type a one
Personally I think so. The skeleton jig is completely adjustable…. I work alot in homes that have hinges in odd places, where the Jig/A either would fit or outside of its adjustment scope….. if your house bashing or working new builds it’s not a problem though.
@@BrainFizz cheers bud I purchased a skeleton one 3 months ago good job only used it on new builds yet doh no old frames yet
@@tomasmorrissey7324 is there a way to use it on old frames cause I can't work it out ?
@@simonsmith6447 yep i presume u know how to use it on new ones so just stick it up on the old ones and ajust hinge guides as desired
Are the rounded corners on a hinge standard size or do they differ from hinge brand to hinge brand? Thanks
Im not really sure, I always get the square corner hinges, and use a corner chisel to square the routed sections.
Enjoyed your video!
Random question - can this hinge jig be used with the t4 straight out of the box ?
You lost me with why you have fitted the sub base . The t4 comes with the correct size guide bush so why the base ?
it can, but the T4 probably won't be concentric to the guide bush, the sub base i used was centred, the other guide bush i mention is adjustable on the t4 base plate.
love the review can i buy this in canada
John Groves if you head on over to the trend website, trend-uk.com and set the currency/location to Canada, it will show you whats available in your region.
I'm not 100% on this, but I think it's still just the 2 and 3 piece hinge jigs in your neck of the woods.
Yes thanks I saw that look like the skeleton is not here yet in toronto.
Like us on Facebook bbgcarpenty
Would it be possible to use this jig with a door casing as opposed to a door lining? Would the rebate get in the way?
Tom Thorns Not sure to be honest, as I've never needed to use it in this way. Best to contact Trend direct - their tech support is ace.
I guess it will boil down to the thickness of the door, and hence the depth of the rebate on the frame.
can be used on a door casing, by now you've probably managed it
Nooice!
trend catalogue states door max thickness is 51mm you said yours were more?
+uncomnizm that's right, the doors had the hinges routed out, the 18mm lead ply was laminated on after, the picture shows the doors, there is also a clear image in the article I wrote about this on my website.
Need one
thanks!
buy a microphone please...
+Sergey GreatDayPhoto sure thing! As soon as your money arrives I'll be right on it!
I can :) but... It's MUST HAVE if you doing video content. Wired lav mic can cost you around £10. Thank you for video anyway :)
+Sergey GreatDayPhoto 😃 OK, I admit my reply was a little sarcastic, but tongue in cheek at the same time. Lol. Seriously though this video is an old one, and an early one of mine. All my old ones were recorded on my mobile phone. I do now use a dale, with a shotgun mic fitted. As things grew I upgraded, because you're right audio wasn't the best, and I did decide to make it better. Hopefully I didn't come across too much of a deuce previously. 😜
All is good this end.👍
It’s not independent if you get it for free
It is still independent, as I still get to say exactly what I want without input from (in this case), trend.
It just means you don’t believe me when I say tell you that.
Feel free to buy your own and make your own decision 👌
Do you know how this compares to the Porter Cable jig? Is there an efficient way to adapt the use of this skeleton jig for 8' 4-hinge doors? Thanks in advance
You can get the individual parts separately as spares, so If I were doing lots of really large doors, I'd get the separate parts to make a "third extender piece" that I could add in the middle for my longer section and hence fourth hinge, other wise I would probably line this up for three of the four hinges and free hand the fourth..