Thank you. If you are needing more torque, due to a shorter track or your motor is getting too hot, you can drop the timing instead of the gearing. Sometimes it just takes 1 or 2 degrees to make that change you desire.
Yes. There is a point where the motor has a good mixture high rpm and good torque. Think of it like the timing on a gas car. There is a sweet spot on it.
That is a great question. I have never tried it, so I don't feel i am qualified to give a recommendation. I know the Tunalyzer allows you to hook up an ESC to power the motor, but only in "Manual" mode.
Heya clegg, interesting results there. If i remember correctly there was video you made maybe 6 month back? I saw where you were comparing a range of different motors and comparing the power drop under load instead of just measuring unloaded amp-draw - I think you had the V6 listed around 50 as optimal timing for that motor using the previous method?
Are most motors generally finding that sweet spot between 5.0 and 6.0 amps, or does it vary? Also have you load tested this particular 13.5 to see what % rpm is lost under load?
@@wutupclegg6618 Hey bro, just discovered your videos about a month ago. Got all the goodies to start learning how to tune my motors, did 3 this morning. Mostly 21.5 and 25.5 for onroad carpet and asphalt racing.
You need to put all the shims you took out, back in. The end float is taken up by the original shims. If you take one out from the back it needs to go in the front, if you want to space the rotor back. To get rid of any extra play you need to install more or thicker shims. Personally I do not recommend spacing the rotor away from the centre of the stator.
Correct. If you remove a shim, you have to replace it to ensure minimal slop. I have shimmed it both was and have seen better results putting it closer to the sensor board. The difference is mostly at higher RPMs.
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hey hey from rctalk broski, watchin em all
Thank you very much! Please let me know what you think. I'm open to all comments.
Informative vid. Do you ever alter the timing based on track size?
Thank you.
If you are needing more torque, due to a shorter track or your motor is getting too hot, you can drop the timing instead of the gearing. Sometimes it just takes 1 or 2 degrees to make that change you desire.
Is there a difference in performance on track b/t lower timing with higher gearing verses higher timing with lower gearing?
Yes. There is a point where the motor has a good mixture high rpm and good torque. Think of it like the timing on a gas car. There is a sweet spot on it.
Hi, interesting video thank you for that. How could we use this method to adjust the timing on ESC for a given motor ?
That is a great question.
I have never tried it, so I don't feel i am qualified to give a recommendation. I know the Tunalyzer allows you to hook up an ESC to power the motor, but only in "Manual" mode.
Awesome video. I pretty much do the same for my motors. Altho i dont have that nice can holder
LOL...
I love that motor service tray.
Thank you for the compliment.
Heya clegg, interesting results there. If i remember correctly there was video you made maybe 6 month back? I saw where you were comparing a range of different motors and comparing the power drop under load instead of just measuring unloaded amp-draw - I think you had the V6 listed around 50 as optimal timing for that motor using the previous method?
What's happening, Grantoverend1. I adjust the timing before I run the motors on the Load Master. I look for the unloaded amp draw.
Are most motors generally finding that sweet spot between 5.0 and 6.0 amps, or does it vary? Also have you load tested this particular 13.5 to see what % rpm is lost under load?
H3llo HookedUpRacing. Yes, 5-6 amps have been the norm. I have not load tested this motor yet, but it is on my list.
Where can we get that motor holder?
Good question. I obtained the holder from WMHracing.com.
WMH Racing
Yup!
@@wutupclegg6618 Hey bro, just discovered your videos about a month ago. Got all the goodies to start learning how to tune my motors, did 3 this morning. Mostly 21.5 and 25.5 for onroad carpet and asphalt racing.
@@johnwolff3206 You're going to love it and become addicted like I am. LOL....
I was just about to do that to my Rocket V6 !
It's a great motor.
You need to put all the shims you took out, back in. The end float is taken up by the original shims. If you take one out from the back it needs to go in the front, if you want to space the rotor back. To get rid of any extra play you need to install more or thicker shims. Personally I do not recommend spacing the rotor away from the centre of the stator.
Correct. If you remove a shim, you have to replace it to ensure minimal slop. I have shimmed it both was and have seen better results putting it closer to the sensor board. The difference is mostly at higher RPMs.