Learning to 3D Print with the Creality Ender 5 S1 - LFC
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- Опубликовано: 31 июл 2024
- #creality #3dprinter
Many thanks to Creality for sending me an Ender 5 S1 and Sonic Pad for my dive into 3D printing. Fantastic no-nonsense printer out of the box. Check out the Ender 5 S1 and other Creality 3D printers using the links down below:
Creality Store:
store.creality.com/products/e...
Amazon Associate links:
Creality Ender 5 S1 - amzn.to/3NOAGvU
Creality Sonic Pad - amzn.to/3XzzbVW
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Chapters:
00:00 - Intro
01:15 - Assembly and Setup
06:06 - Test Prints
10:02 - Interface and Sonic Pad
15:21 - Downloading and Slicing STLs
23:58 - Printing Blender Models
30:44 - Building from Scratch
37:01 - Conclusion 
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This is, by far, the best introduction to 3-D printing I have ever seen.
This guy is a legend, he would be a fantastic teacher as well
Also after printing some time and you get some oils from hand to build plate. I use IPA for cleaning it.
For exporting from Blender I usually have used "Include selection only" and "Apply modifiers".
Apply modifiers because if you use boolean operations and don't want to apply them before export.
Thanks for this one Graham, been considering jumping in to 3d printing so seeing the build/setup process is super useful!
Thanks Graham this was a really useful straightforward video which explains the setup and use really well and in plain English too.
Minor correction regarding exporting geometry from blender: You don't need to delete all unwanted objects before exporting. If you select the geometry you want before exporting the file, there should be a "selection only" tick box in the "include" tab of the export menu. Checking that will cause the exported file to only contain what was in the selection.
Ah, I thought I'd tested that (as I'm used to doing it for exporting VRchat avatars to Unity) but maybe I mis-clicked and thought it didn't work...
I also use "Apply modifiers" tick box so I don't need to finalize model in scene side.
Has been some time since this video, but if you want to know, the timelapse seems to aggravate one of the most common issues in 3d print: commonly called STRINGING. Now, this problem varies deppending on:
- type of polymer ( PETG is a nigthmare, PLA is ussualy more newbie friendly if not wet);
- the moisture (please don´t storage your spools in humid environments, even brand new filament sometimes has a lot of moisture);
- and on large degree of calibration, whether of the printer itself (firmware, klipper in this reggard), or the slicer profile (cura, prusa slicer, orca, etc).
One of the starting point to get rid of stringing is RETRACTIONS calibration.
14:30 min : yes, you must set Offsets for the nozzle (Z-Offset), the bed, and the print head. Z-Offset is maybe the most important. And this varies accross all printers, deppending on the size and height of the print head and probe sensor. But your concerns are well founded, Creality isn´t near known by his QC.
I really want to encourage you to digg more into 3D printing and make more content. It´s always welcome to see.
Glad you got into 3d printing. I've been at it for a few years and its a great hobby. It can be frustrating but as you are a "tinkerer" it will be relatively easy for you to suss out how to deal with the many problems that will arise.
3D printing might seem like a good way to create physical components that are expensive/difficult/impossible to source. If you have engineering drawings, it's not too hard to create a 3D model of a component.
But 3D scanning can be extremely expensive. Fortunately, for both Arduino and Raspberry Pi, there are both pantograph and profile gauge solutions.
Getting the itch to finally buy a 3D printer, too, so appreciate the video overview!
Excellent vid as always. good introduction into 3d printing..
I have a corsair case with a sealed front.I made standoffs to move the cover forward to give me more clearance on the sides of the front panel for more cooling.Also the screen on a cable will allow you to use it during printing and not bump the printer and destroy hours of work.
I work in AV for a London University and one of our AV contractors talks avidly about his experiences with 3D Printing, and making toys for his kids and also recommended the Ender 5 to me a couple of weeks ago. I'm looking forward to giving it a go.
The "PEI" buildplate works absolutely great. When the buildplate is warm the model sticks to it really well requiring no preparatiom whatsoever. Once the buildplate cools down, the model often pops right off by itself. Once in a while i give it a quick whipe with a soft cloth and some isopropyl alcohol
I usually use IPA for first print of day/week or if I accidentally touched build area with fingers. Those oils cause prints not to stick.
I was surprised to learn that this can be bought for as little as £ 238.50 incl. VAT Filament reels are around £20 - savings can be made with multiple filament purchases. This is really starting to become affordable now. But I won't be buying one just yet. I couldn't justify the expense for the amount of times I'd use it at the moment. But it's something I'm starting to think about again since they first came on the market as somewhat of an expensive gimmick.
Great video very informative. Top job.
I've had a Creality Ender 3 Pro for a little while. Great fun, and there are countless upgrades and spare parts for them. As you say, surprisingly quick to set up and use! I use a glass bed with 3DLAC adhesive spray to keep the print in place and aid cleanup
I have the same one, still stock and works like a treat still
I have Ender 3 v2 and had done some upgrades (touch sensor, magnetic bed, dual z axis, and direct drive, fan changes). What I have understand that Pro model includes all those upgrades.
Magnetic bed is very nice. Models stick nicely if cleaned properly. I usually use IPA for cleaning.
Just thought i would add that you can now choose what usb port you use when in the printer setup GUI on the sonic pad, also creality print now has tree supports but I would still recommend CURA it just seems a bit more polished 👍
Ah that's good to know, I bought right-angled cables for mine, but hiding the cable completely is still a better solution!
I have just purchased the Bambu X1 Carbon, no need to set it up as it sets itself up automatically!
Loved it, well done
As with any Blender tutorial: RIP the default cube. 🤣
Great video as normal, I literally have just set the same printer up but have only printed the rabbit at the moment. Just got to find room for it in my loft now.
That was great thanks for showing us
Thought this was a really good and informative video especially for someone looking to get started in 3D printing
29:34 nope, its seam lines and are unavoidable, you can only hide it at corners by changing it in the slicer. Only in vase mode will get affected by the power outage saver
3D printing services are expensive. I've found a thing that I want to print - a four 2.5" 15mm tall HDDs to 5.25" drive bay adapter. I used an online estimator and price was approx £90 per unit. Ouch. A budget 3D printer quickly starts to make sense if you need to print more than a couple of units.
Resin printers are better for miniatures.
you can program a filament change at any layer so you can change colors, would of made your logo print pop
Those "blobs" you were getting is actually the Z seam and is the start/end of a layer. It is not something you can get rid of but there are ways to minimise them.
There are options to try and hide the seam, easier to do if there is a corner in the model but something round it will be obvious. In that case might be better to have the Z seam lined up so it is easer to remove by sanding. If you look at the preview this is shown as white dots on each layer.
There are a ton of options in Cura that will be overwhelming at first so most will be hidden if you are in basic mode, but you can quickly find them by using the search bar.
You can customise what options to show as you learn what they do.
The power save feature can cause imperfections as the layer progress is stored on the SDcard but is something you will rarely see.
The only time its a problem is when you are printing in vase mode (spiralize in Cura) where it does not print in layers but constantly moves the Z axis up creating a single walled print in a spiral. If there is any pauses in the movements, like a fraction of a second it takes to save layer progress to the SDcard, It will leave a little blob or imperfection that is noticeable.
I went from Ender 3v2 to Anycubic Vyper to Bambu P1P. I'm so happy with the Bambu. Prints out of the box so much better quality than my old modified Ender an Vyper did. And it does it 3 times faster also. What it took print on Ender or Vyper 3 hours, takes only 1 hour on the P1P. I'm never looking back at the Anycubic or Ender printers.
Strange question: is the P1P particularly noisy? I have an Ender 3 with 32 bit board and various upgrades (no enclosure though) and have managed to make it pretty quiet. I’ve heard the P1P is pretty noisy, which is a big turn off for me. Penny for your thoughts?
@@lawrencemanning Oh yes it is very noisy compared to quiet fan upgraded 32 bit Ender. But for me it doesn't really matter since it's so much faster than the Ender is and it also prints much better quality.
I have been toying with the idea of buying a 3D printer for a while, but on the other hand, I could send off a design to a 3D printer service (in China) and probably get a much better quality result without needing to invest in a printer and make loads of mistakes, etc. You also have a wider variety of materials and colours. It would be interesting if you could comment on (a) is it possible to design something that will print OK without actually testing it out first on my own printer a few times. (b) What is the experience like if ordering from overseas (or locally?) in terms of delay, quality, etc.
great advise
It could be due to where I am from (South Wales) but I have never heard anyone native to the UK pronounce Zed as Zee unironically, maybe I am missing the joke.
Why didn't you make this video 10 years ago when i started 3D printing? lol
Very good intro to 3D printing for newbies. Keep up the good work dude! Your videos are always informative and this one is no different!
This is"THE" 3d printer video.
A bit of glue stick paste in the print area helps things stick and aids removal. At least that's what I've personally found to be true.
Not to put you down but get to the challenging things like a tall object or a wide object and see if they stay stuck or warp which always happens with mines. I will be officially impressed if you can print a screw thread vertically at least 2/3 height of your build volume without it coming unstuck or print a simple square at least 1 inch thick but the width and breadth of your build volume and have it not warp or distort. The real issue with 3D printers is adhesion, because if it’s even slightly off the head will either knock the print off or the build plate will have uneven heat resulting in a warped print especially at the edges.. Honestly I have yet to come across one that can do these things at entry level pricing. I am interested in seeing what you can do when you decide to push it’s limits.
I'm also new in this game now. Have bought a used Ender 3 V2. 😊
I started with the ender 3 and now have a cr-6 max farm
I got a couple weedo tina 2's some months back. They're decent, and really good considering the price I got them for. Cant make anything big on them though, and any print past 3 hours it doesn't like.
Also regarding to the print plate, the PEI sheet is the best of the best at least for PLA, TPU and PETG. You can just bend the plate and the print pops out. Also helps if you let it cool down a bit. Glass etc hard surfaces are nightmare to work on. The prints stick so much to them and it seems to be almost impossible to remove the prints off it.
I use 3DLAC spray on a Creality-branded glass print bed. It releases quite well, but I agree the flexible magnetic beds are good for those just starting out
@@philcrockford5534 i’ve printed mostly PLA and PETG and j’ve never needed to use any glue. I’ve had 3d printers something like 5-6 years now so i have some knowledge about them. The magnetic PEI sheet works the best for me. I’m not missing the glass beds one bit 😀
I agree. PEI is the way to go. Never got anywhere with glass. My dilemma is my 4 year old Ender 3 has all the upgrades but I’m lusting after faster prints with a CoreXY setup. Auto levelling might occasionally be useful as well.
@@Syntappi One of my friend sent PETG and glass picture. He started to use "hair products" as "glue" after that. Without "glue" PETG stick too strongly to glass that it can chip it when you remove model.
@@Syntappi not knocking it at all! I get on well with both but have found what works best for me, which is what it's all about - isn't it?
use the PrusaSlicer instead, it is lighter and the tree support is better in it
Amazingly informative, as i should expect by now. Sadly all this makes me want to do now is somehow find some SPACE for such a device!! THAT is NOT an easy project!! Anyway, great vid.
hey, my dude, i have been printing for a couple of months now, first i set up a printer for my buddy and it went fine.
then i scratched my own table pad starting my very first print, lol.
we both got 3V2neo
ordered a new pad, learning stuff aaight now
my sketchup improved a lot since, but i want to master fusion
Yea I considered learning at least some Sketchup basics, but I already had experience with Blender, so since that was also free I figured I'd just roll with that.
I should check out the others anyway though, since Blender might be a case of opening a can of beans with angle grinder.
I need 100 name plates at 10mm high, wedge or right triangle shape with a 80mm width and a 2mm x 40mm sq platter attached and then 40 different unit names on them in raised relief ?
Looking at that logo 0:50 - didn't they also do speakers and sound cards? If I had the space, I'd love a 3d printer. Nice balanced overview, as always.
Does look like Creative Sound's logo but modified.
I also thought the Creality wordmark was very similar to Creative ;)
Different font, but definitely the same style!
Its going to be very helpful if you want to do a laptop to desktop case making. .
Can you have various colors within the model?
I hope you will start using 3d printing in repairs, should be interesting to see
Z eee... when did you leave England and move to the US?
I am now considering getting this. Your Amazon link is out of stock :(
The link you posted to the Amazon Creality Ender 5 S1 is the wrong link it's taking me too the Creality Official Ender 3 S1 🤔
Welcome to the dark side !! I don't use Cura, I use PrusaSlicer , which is pretty much a personal choice although I find it much more configurable. I don't know how Cura would handle it but when you go to slice a model like your GPU stand, it would recognize it as a 'sign' and basically add a pause if you want it to change to it different material. So you could do the base in white and then the logo part in black for example. Best of luck, it's a fun hobby !
I've been looking into using PrusaSlicer to change filaments mid-print after making this video, so yes I'll be checking it out!
Was it cura you used ? Great channel keep up the good work
Yes. I've also heard lots of good stuff about PrusaSlicer too.
Awesome video, If you EVER need any help (issues/upgrades/fault-finding) 3d printing don't hesitate giving me a shout I'd gladly give a hand :)
Cheers man, I need to get on-board as well. Creality seems a mid priced option
Hi-Great video ty, and certainly something different from your channel. I am now wondering if you are going to provide a 3 d printing service from your shop? Would you concider this from a local chap , assuming the price is right?
Possibly, I need to do more test runs and practise first, so I have more predictable results, but I would like to offer 3D printing as a collection service, that would be cool.
In Britain we say ‘contacted’ not ‘reached out’ and its a ‘zed’ axis, not a ‘zee’ axis 😤
Go drink some tea and enjoy the video without complaining.
@@Luizzmp3 These groovy pseudo Americans 😂
Should have gone for DDs minimum 😂
I didn't know you were a brony lol
imo free sample is a sponsorship
I personally don't count a free sample of the product as a sponsorship. For me, sponsorship would mean that the benefactor has also gifted me additional and unrelated products or services to colour my opinion, or they have some amount of creative input to the video, or they're straight up giving me cash.
However, I will disclose when I've been gifted a sample of the product, so you can make up your own mind on that front. At least for this video, I've given my honest experience in setting up and using the product, and sharing the results.
My central issue with Creality is their lack of quality control. They make fine entry-level printers, but the lack of quality control and after-sales support hurts them. Of course, they're making a commodity product (V-wheel i3 clone FDM printers), so you can't compare their product to Prusa's, RatRig's, or BambuLab's. Creality has the resources to make a premium printer that actually competes with more expensive brands, but so far they've refused to do it.
Impressively strong, or you are Impressively weak 😅
So, are you a brony?
Bronies aren’t real. Bronies were a hoax 👽
Cura can import .3mf files too, handy for when you export from Fusion 360 for example. When you do, 1mm is 1mm quite consistently.
You could print a hammer and use it to prove how really strong that little boat model is by smashing it into tiny pieces!