Basic cleaning and sticker removal of PS2 games: Part 1!
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 25 авг 2024
- A tale of two Kessen!
We take you through the steps of what I consider to be standard PS2 cleaning. All the favorites are in this one! Heptane vs GooGone, a cover art sticker removal (with a surprise), a case swap and why we had to, lots of what you'll find with most used PS2 games!
If you're new to cleaning games, or have some DVD-case style games sitting on your shelf and want to clean them up, this video has a little bit of everything you might run into!
Tools we used:
- Scotty peelers (plastic and metal)
- Plastic scrapers
- Heptane
- GooGone
- All Purpose Cleaner
- Paper towels
- Heat gun
- Q-tips
Just keep in mind that none of the above tools are an absolute "must have", there are decent alternatives for each of them. Drop a comment down below if you're having a hard time finding any of those tools and we can figure out alternatives for you!
All tools shown are available through Amazon/Walmart. I try to limit how often you see custom or expensive tools. Cleaning on a budget!! We have lists for our international friends too!!
Thanks for watching everyone! I'm going to keep cleaning!
-Eldoug
Tools I use! And affiliated links to buy them on Amazon!
(Let me know if you are outside of the US, I have suggested tools for most international countries too!)
Scotty Peelers-
amzn.to/3yxSRis
Heptane (Bestine)-
amzn.to/3FTBIS5
My gloves! Cosplay as me!-
amzn.to/3Mgm9WY
Mini heat gun-
amzn.to/3sv1si4
Gamebit screwdriver-
amzn.to/37Ezj0F
Thermal paste I use-
amzn.to/3FCllsQ
Insepction loupes/magnifiers-
amzn.to/3yxhtYs
iFixit Manta kit-
amzn.to/3a0fYYR
Magnetic parts tray-
amzn.to/3L99HqD
Brayer/roller-
amzn.to/3l5vDbu
Extraction fan for soldering-
amzn.to/3a0gbLD
Hygrometer/Thermometer-
amzn.to/3FMsmaE
The blue mat!-
amzn.to/3L8zdfp
this channel is wealth of knowledge. thank you for your videos!
Well thank you for watching! I'm going to keep making more of everything in the hopes that it helps people!
An awesome video! I very much appreciate you for making it. 😄👍👍
Here’s hoping that you’ll upload a part 2 of this series as soon as humanly possible. 🙂🤞🤞
Cheers to you, my man! 🥃🥃
Heck yes! Thankfully there is a neverending supply of stickered and filthy PS2 games, and it's a fantastic library! So there will definetly be more in this series. I'll keep making them until I cover any and all issues the PS2 cases and discs might have!
Love the ocd , subscribed!
Thanks for the subscribe! I try to not overdo it on the obsessive compulisve overexplaining, but there's so much to explain and I think it's such cool stuf!
another amazing video, thank you! Keep going my man!
How would I uh go about removing a rentals glue from a manual and case and the sticker on the disc 😅
Loved the hint annotation for oem ps2 cases, never knew that before! Sorry to see the damage on Kessen but you did the best you could my man.
personally I had always used goo gone but i always did notice not the best result so I'll definitely have to pick up some heptain. How do you prefer to fully sanitize your games when you get them? Another banger video :)
Don't get me wrong, I use GooGone too! But in some cases it can leave some shadowing. It isn't always super obvious, but for cleaner/newer cases I don't want to add anything to it. Now for old hazy PS2 cases? It won't make a huge impact to use GooGone.
I'll actually be doing a full sanitizing video! But ultimately it depends on the condition of the games when I get them. If I get a big bulk box from a flea market or a random internet deal all the cases and discs will get a quick steam cleaning. If it's a few games from the local gamestore, they'll get a disinfecting wipe down on the case and a quick clean on some specific spots on the disc. Both methods have their pros and cons. While I'm a fan of steam-cleaning everything from a germ standpoint, it can be a cumbersome process.
Love it, good stuff. Where do you get heptane, Walmart? Thanks for the tips!
You can buy it commercialls as Bestine on Amazon, art supply stores will sell it as rubber cement remover too! Any chemical supply store will sell it as n-Heptane, which just means 99.3%-100% heptane, while commerical versions can go from 60% (which is rare) to 90%.
For European users it's a little tougher to find, but it'll show up in stores as "Un-Du" (same as Australian stores). South American countries have a weird restriction on heptane importing, go figure.
I have been collecting for 20 years and you have given the best demos and explanation out there. Makes me regret some of the things I use to do… LOL. The one question I do have is about Heptane. Does it matter which one I buy and do I need to do a 50/50 mix?
Hey I used to only use IPA on cases and never took out the cover arts! 😮
It shouldn't matter what kind of heptane you buy (bestine also works), if you do get chemical grade heptane (you'd only get this from a chem supply store), you'll want to store it differently from off the shelf heptane. But Bestine, Doc Eds, Rubber Cement Remover, Un-Du, anything that is 100% heptane will work. You also don't want to dilute it as that would negate the properties of the heptane.
And since it's a chemical you do want to take all safety precautions, gloves and mask and all. It can be pretty strong stuff!
@@RestoreAndReplay Thank you for the advice and videos. Great information!
Any idea what method would work best for stickers on the inside of cover art? One of my local used shops has a nasty habit of putting price stickers on the inside of cover art and I find them all over the place regardless of if I'm shopping at that store or not. They do it to track when a game gets traded back into them I believe.
Would Heptane work best or heat gun? Or something else?
I remember a store near me doing something similar! They'd put their store sticker on the inside of the cover art, sneaky fellas.
Ok so the process would be basically the same, stabalize the paper and remove using either heptane or a heat gun. What's nice is that you don't have to worry too much about discoloration on the inside of the cover art, but you just want to be careful about wrinkling the art itself. I've got 2 videos on the channel showing the processes and a few more on the way!
Hi there, I’m new to the channel and was wanting to know how I can get rid of smoke smell off of case art / manuals.
I actually have a video planned for that! But in the meantime, I love using the fragrance-free dryer sheets. You'll want to dry out the dryer sheets a bit to make sure they aren't damp and won't leave any residue, then toss some sheets in a ziplock bag with the cover arts. Let them sit in there for half a day, take everything out and let them get fresh moving air for half a day, and repeat as necessary!
@@RestoreAndReplay Thank you so much for the reply! I never really dealt with this, the smell isn’t strong but it’s definitely there and it’ll drive me crazy lol.
I totally get it! Odors are a tricky thing. You have to clean the surface to allow for the little smell particles to be released. Paper is tougher to "clean" so you have to give it a ton of airflow and new air to remove and replace the smells. Dryer sheets help, but cleaning the surface is a big part of it.
A quick wipe down with a slightly damp cloth, then immediately drying can help bring up the smells to the surface and get them moving off of the items too!
@@RestoreAndReplay I’ve been using the dryer sheet method and leaving the case art and manual on a floor vent. One of the games no longer stinks so if works and I’m happy.
Love your videos! Sorry if i sound weird, english is not my first language. I've recently started collecting old games but I've had some problems with mold. Do you have any tips on getting rid of mold in game art and manuals and also how to prevent it? I live in a humid area so mold is the biggest problem i have with my collection.
Absolutely! We were just talking about this on the discords! I have a mold overview video, ( ruclips.net/video/KyBw8DP6saE/видео.html ) but am working on a larger mold mitigation video. For humid areas, preferrably you'd want to get down the humidity levels by using a dehumidifer or other collection system, but equally important is to make sure you're rotating your items regularly and have good airflow. If you do find mold on any items, try the following
A mixture of 70/30 white vinegar and water lightly sprayed onto the surface. If the spots drastically change color, you've got mold. Pat it dry. Spray it lightly again. Let it sit for an hour. Pat dry. Take it out onto direct sunlight. Let it sit for an hour. Bring it back inside, another spray and pat.
You won't remove the spots from the mold, but it'll render the mold inert. (The process you are doing is breaking down the coating of the mold (by way of vinegar) to allow for UV to damage the nucleic acids of the mold (which kills it). This will prevent mold from spreading or getting worse.
You're a lifesaver thank you! I'll be looking forward to the new mold video :)
I was wondering seeing you video... Is there a way to repair steelcases? Got a Monster Hunter World Icebornce edition in a Steelcase for dirt cheap, because the metal case was damaged (got a blend on the upper side), I didn't care because of the price but... seeing you repairing all that stuff got me wondering if you know how to do that. Cheers pal!
Remove dents? Absolutely yes. Repair rust? Unfortunatly no... 🙁 BUT DENTS YES. Basically you roll out a dent the same as paintless dent repairing on a car (you'll notice I use a ton of car repair/detailing tricks and tools 😄). I will add it to the list to make a video! It's a fairly easy process, and since the paint on steelbooks is a little less delicate you can usually roll out pretty decently sized dents and dings!
@@RestoreAndReplay nice! I will wait for your video man! Mine is broken on the hinge, maybe I can get you a photo so you can diagnose it man? Thanks again!
What gloves and heat gun do you use? What are the brands? How about that mat you are using?
I updated the links in the video description to show what all tools I use! You don't have to use those specifically, I just found cheaper stuff that I don't mind if they get damaged. (I'd rather the tools get damaged than the games!)
I disagree. To someone who’s been cleaning up used video games (for personal use) for decades, it’s really fascinating to me to see this being done with more… precision..
Well thank you! I learned how to clean up cases and discs long long ago working behind a GameStop counter, so I had limited tools but could take my time with it. I spent so many years putting stickers on cover arts while at GameStop that I figure if I clean enough games, it'll absolve me of those GameStop sins!
What can I do if the inner ring has multiple small cracks and is even missing a some plastic from one side? I have a disc of Samurai Western that works perfectly but the inner ring is rough... I don't want it to break since I really like the game and it is too expensive for me to replace.
So this one is tough. There are ways to reenforce that center ring (and ways to replace it) but its not always the easiest. I've got a video series where I go over the steps, but even then it can be tricky. I'm trying to find better methods too!
@@RestoreAndReplay Could you please link the video?
about instructions manual booklets, some of my booklets have yellow small lumps (probably fungi) appearing. Any ideas on what to do? I'mma put them in the sun and also leave the cases without the disc there. The dvds are 100% fine
That's what I'd do! I'm working on a series of how to clean moldy games, but UV light is the best at killing off mold and growth. For cases, you can wipe them down with a 50/50 vinegar and water mixture, that'll break down anything growing. Leave those cases in the sun for an hour or so and you'll be good to go. For manuals you can leave them in direct sunlight for 30-40 minutes (just keep an eye on it that they aren't starting to fade in color). You won't remove the spotting, but this will make sure it doesn't continue to grow!
@@RestoreAndReplay So, i left them in the sun, but it doesn't seem to have worked. Im not sure if it is mold because there was no humidity to begin with. I just left them inside plastic wraps for some time. I'm worried about this getting worse. The discs are still fine. I'll do the sun bathing with the cases too tomorrow, lets see what happens!
@@GrayFoxRJ I have JUST the video for you then. Just finished recording it this week. It covers mold mitigation using a UVC light. Should be up later this week. But keep in mind that you'll still see the mold, it just won't get any worse! We get into all of that with the video though!
I think you felt like a doctor losing a patient after working hard to keep them alive when the tearing happened. You knew he never had a chance but god damnit u were gonna at least try
It kinda feels like that sometimes! And then I get into wondering if I caused the issue more, or if the issue was what killed the poor little fella.
You'll be happy to know that both Kessen are proudly on the shelves along with the rest of their PS2 family. Never leave a game behind!
Great video. WD40 is great for cleaning up the residue after removing label. I had been using Goof Off for 2 years..had some old bottles of it. Bought a new one recently and found out and unfortunately, they changed the formula! Which brought me here. Old goof off was amazing on the DVD style cases but melts some plastics. Heptane seems to be more tedious to use. Have to try both since my old remedy seems to be no longer available unless you know the chemical they used for old Goof off? I buy collections so sometimes am removing 50 labels in a day. Faster the better! Thanks.
So there are two kinds of Goof Off! Acetone and non-acetone (you probably know this). But even the newer Goof Off non-acetone versions seem.... thicker? If that makes sense. Goof Off Gel is still my go-to, since GooGone just loves to leave too much of a film.
I will agree that heptane is a bit tedious. I tend to leave that for finer detailed work where I need to ensure the cardboard doesn't get soaked.
Be careful with WD40 though, they added to their MSDS that it's not recommended for some polycarbonates. They don't specify what, but I think know their aerosol has a bit more of a solvent attribute to it.
@@RestoreAndReplay I did not know there was still a non acetone goof off! I did try the one in a spray bottle few months ago. It was thicker and orange colored, and i believe a citrus smell. I sprayed it and it managed to splash me in the eye, and didn't perform like the original version or i would have kept it, even after the eye scare. Lol. What's the exact name of the goof off you use? Thanks! Haven't had any issues with WD40 on plastics, just have to spot test first. It is not good on anything that has ink though, will ruin anything printed. Leaves a little greasy shine but can be wiped off easily with a clean rag.
Goof Off Adhesive Gunk Remover Gel (likely the stuff that almost blinded you!) goofoffproducts.com/adhesive-gunk-remover-gel/
So this stuff works wonders, but you have to scuff up the edges of any stickers. I use it a ton in my NES videos, as long as the surface is prepped for it, it's a matter of just spraying it down and agitating the surface a bit!
But yeah the WD40 thing is tricky, I used to use it constantly until someone told me it stripped off their entire label, so now I've got to be a bit more cautious of what I suggest.
But yeah, Goof Off gel isn't as strong as regular Goof Off, but if you let it sit and soak it'll do wonders on security stickers!
One thing that is so annoying is when they put the sticker on the artwork
OH TRUST ME I KNOW. I spend years and years working at GameStop, and a number of those years I had to PUT THOSE STICKERS ON THE COVER ART!! So now I make up for it by showing folks how to fix those evils!
Just get some rubbing alcohol and some cotton buds.
Oh my no. Do not do that! Bobby John nooo!! haha