@@andrewhkim Great content. I have a question about printing and framing fine art. I see many print with a 1-2 inch border. Some frame it with the border others hide border with matt. If the image is a 11x14 how big is the entire print? Do i use a frame that is several inches bigger to hold the border? You have any videos that cover this? Thanks.
Oh man, you take me back to my black and white days of printing my own stuff and mounting it. You realty know your stuff. That photo looks absolutely fantastic!!! Thanks for sharing. And nice to show our brave veterans.
Really informative tutorial. I thought I knew it all but I've learned a lot and been inspired to use better products to get the best results. Thank you for sharing.
Great video and very helpful beautifully explained, everything you warned us about not to do i had already done so the video was great at making it sink in so i dont make the same mistakes again, thankyou so much for your help, hope evans gallery show went well.
Nice job! You need to pick up yourself some marking scribes for marking those back window cut marks. When making multiples it really speeds up production. ❤️
Thanks for the ☕️! If you plan on doing a lot of large printing, go for the bigger cutter. But if it’s here and there, just outsource when you need to go big big.
Very informative. I always cut out sheets from roll to use for printing with my 3880. The banding usually is due to thickness and paper feed adjustment. For the paper you were printing on, the Baryta Hahnemuhle,( www.hahnemuehle.com/fileadmin/user_upload/pdf/dfa/datenblaetter_dfa/FineArtBaryta-Rev01.pdf), Thickness should be set to 4, you can reference the data sheet for your particular paper to find out the thickness.
Thanks, Kamran. I do set the platen gap for thicker papers, but interesting to hear the banding was due to that. I thought it was due to the curling. Anyway, I think i'll stick w/ cut sheets as the curled ones are too cumbersome to deal with.
Thanks for this, very thorough. I have always wondered about the tape on the back to keep the dust out. Is dust entering the frame via the 1/16" gap between the backing board/foam core and the frame really that serious of an issue? My instinct is that it isn't. I would think you'd need to have a lot of fine dust and have it being blown pretty hard directly at the back of the frame to get even a little into the photo/glass area. Which, let's face it, is unlikely. I'm interested in thoughts and especially experience with this issue. I suspect the traditional brown paper covering on the back came into fashion mainly because it makes the framing job look more professional and finished and less due to the dust intrusion issue.
Never really thought about it to be honest. But now that I am... these are picture frames that collect dust over long periods of time. Add in relocating them to the attic, storage, moving houses, etc. You'd need to be pretty vigilant with dusting them, which not everyone will do. I'd imagine the paper backing would act as a plunger of sorts to move air and whatever dust is already inside. But you're right..it's probably a minute chance you'll actually see dust move to the front; and more about presenting as a professionally finished piece. I'd be curious as to the history of the paper backing. Thanks for the comment!
@@andrewhkim Thanks for the thoughtful reply Andrew. Often in technical endeavors (such as framing) I get the sense that the top level professionals continually push themselves toward 100% perfection in what they do (which is a good thing.) But then they seem to get unreasonably fixated on the very small details that only pertain to the situation in rare instances, which tends to manifest itself in firm proclamations of "You must always do it THIS way" without much emphasis on its relative importance. And then everyone who learns from them has that burned into their minds. This makes it hard for a person starting out when they are bombarded with a laundry list of seemingly unbreakable, steadfast rules (as opposed to a prioritized list to help a beginner along.) Few people ask questions such as the one I asked above, and my experience is that when I have asked such a question, those with experience don't have a satisfactory answer beyond, "That's how I was taught to do it." I've broken many of these set rules in a variety of disciplines over the years and more times than not I do not experience the dire consequences the professionals predict. Thanks again for the video and the reply Andrew.
@@MisterGazda haha. totally agree with you. i experienced that in photo critiques. people are taught to look for X, and then they get overly fixated on judging your photo on how it lives up to X. over time you learn to accept or reject feedback. i think it's a human behavior thing. the large majority of people fall on the middle of the bell curve of just following and perpetuating the rules, and not really dig into the roots of things. but i do think it's good to learn the rules so that you can break them when the time comes.
Amazing video, loved it. I want to ask you if choosing a glossy or luster paper won't be a problem when covered with glass, as we would have these 2 layers of reflective surfaces. This is why I have been printing on matte paper, although I am kind of new to framing and like the definition of the paper you used here. Thank you very much.
Not sure about glossy, but yea. Try out some satin papers. Ideally I’d love to frame it without glass, but dust and fingers tend to find their way onto the paper
@@andrewhkim so i guess you are not experiencing very annoying reflections from the satin papers, glad to hear that. Will try them out. Btw thanks for the super fast reply in both social medias.
Loved this video Andrew. It came out amazing! I have a question about the backing board. Do you typically just use a mat board behind the image then add a foam core behind it all or do you ever use the foam core as the actual backing behind the print instead of the mat board?
Thanks Carson! I use a 4-ply mat behind, then the foam core. I suppose you could do it directly on the foam, but it’s exposed to the back. So any poke thru damage may affect the print. Of course we’re talking small chances. Also, you’d have to tape the front mat directly to foam core, which could shift around and mess up your front window framing.
@@andrewhkim Very true! I enjoyed watching your process, it’s cool how you did it. I wish I had the space to do everything on my own like that. What size foam core backing would you usually recommend. Do you think 3/16 would be too thick for most frames?
I think these were Nielsen Bainbridge white matboards. But there's other brands out there you can look at. I personally like to get 32x40" full sheets, 8-ply, in white.
Great content. I have a question about printing and framing fine art. I see many print with a 1-2 inch border. Some frame it with the border others hide border with matt. If the image is a 11x14 how big is the entire print? Do i use a frame that is several inches bigger to hold the border?
Not quite sure I understand your question. But this is why I like to mock-up in photoshop…so I can see the balance of image to border area. For an 11x14” image, if you want borderless then print on 11x14” paper or larger. Cover with mat with a larger frame. Or no mat, then just insert into an 11x14” frame.
This is the best, most descriptive instruction on matting and framing photographs I have ever seen. No steps were skipped over in the video.
Thank you for going through the whole process. It was fabulous as are the photographs.
Glad you enjoyed it!
One of the best videos about printing and framing I've ever seen. Fine work. Thanks for sharing.
This was the best printing and framing tutorial I’ve seen so far on YT. Well done and keep up the great work!
🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
@@andrewhkim Great content. I have a question about printing and framing fine art. I see many print with a 1-2 inch border. Some frame it with the border others hide border with matt. If the image is a 11x14 how big is the entire print? Do i use a frame that is several inches bigger to hold the border? You have any videos that cover this? Thanks.
Not 😂
Oh man, you take me back to my black and white days of printing my own stuff and mounting it.
You realty know your stuff. That photo looks absolutely fantastic!!!
Thanks for sharing. And nice to show our brave veterans.
🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
Good job
Really informative tutorial. I thought I knew it all but I've learned a lot and been inspired to use better products to get the best results. Thank you for sharing.
🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
These portraits brought tears to my eyes❤️
Amazing work
Great video and very helpful beautifully explained, everything you warned us about not to do i had already done so the video was great at making it sink in so i dont make the same mistakes again, thankyou so much for your help, hope evans gallery show went well.
Thank you for taking time to explain your process. Very informative. Thank you
🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
Such quality! You put so much effort into your videos! Great job man!
🙏🙏🙏
Beautiful work…
what an amazing tutorial i learned alot of new things even tho i have been doing this for a while.
👊🏼👊🏼👊🏼
Excellent tutorial. Thank you very much.
👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Nice job! You need to pick up yourself some marking scribes for marking those back window cut marks. When making multiples it really speeds up production. ❤️
Marking scribes...did you ever demo that in your class? Don't seem to recall
Very nice work and explaining as you go is very helpful..thx!
You are welcome!
Thanks you so much!! I loved this tutorial. So helpful!
A masterpiece! Thank you for the efforts of both of you!
🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
Thank you for inspiring me. Now I hot to finish my 3 small star wars poster.
Do it!
Fantastic work... both of you🤙
🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
Thank you
👊🏼👊🏼👊🏼
i get everything done outside. but i so loved watching this video. loads of knowledge. thanks.
PS: hope your show went well
🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
This was almost Zen(ish) watching experience ✊🏼
Changed the title! 😄
Really enjoyed your video 🙏
👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
just awesome awesome work, documenting the work process.
Thanks Jay!
Great video!
Thanks!
Great tutorial. One question is anyhow possible to have a template for papers info like shown at minute 12:39 ? Thank you
Fantastic video. Did the three veterans get to see the picture at the exhibition? It looked fantastic, well done👍
Not sure if they did or not. Thanks!
Hi, I just bought an autographed photo in having custom framed. Any tips for removing finger prints from photo not near autograph? Thanks
Great job on the video. Your link to the Rotatrim goes to the picture wire instead.
Thanks for the ☕️! If you plan on doing a lot of large printing, go for the bigger cutter. But if it’s here and there, just outsource when you need to go big big.
I'll buy some coffee for a tutorial on measuring the photos on photoshop!
Can you be more specific?
Very informative. I always cut out sheets from roll to use for printing with my 3880. The banding usually is due to thickness and paper feed adjustment. For the paper you were printing on, the Baryta Hahnemuhle,( www.hahnemuehle.com/fileadmin/user_upload/pdf/dfa/datenblaetter_dfa/FineArtBaryta-Rev01.pdf), Thickness should be set to 4, you can reference the data sheet for your particular paper to find out the thickness.
Thanks, Kamran. I do set the platen gap for thicker papers, but interesting to hear the banding was due to that. I thought it was due to the curling. Anyway, I think i'll stick w/ cut sheets as the curled ones are too cumbersome to deal with.
Thanks for this, very thorough. I have always wondered about the tape on the back to keep the dust out. Is dust entering the frame via the 1/16" gap between the backing board/foam core and the frame really that serious of an issue? My instinct is that it isn't. I would think you'd need to have a lot of fine dust and have it being blown pretty hard directly at the back of the frame to get even a little into the photo/glass area. Which, let's face it, is unlikely. I'm interested in thoughts and especially experience with this issue. I suspect the traditional brown paper covering on the back came into fashion mainly because it makes the framing job look more professional and finished and less due to the dust intrusion issue.
Never really thought about it to be honest. But now that I am... these are picture frames that collect dust over long periods of time. Add in relocating them to the attic, storage, moving houses, etc. You'd need to be pretty vigilant with dusting them, which not everyone will do. I'd imagine the paper backing would act as a plunger of sorts to move air and whatever dust is already inside. But you're right..it's probably a minute chance you'll actually see dust move to the front; and more about presenting as a professionally finished piece. I'd be curious as to the history of the paper backing. Thanks for the comment!
@@andrewhkim Thanks for the thoughtful reply Andrew. Often in technical endeavors (such as framing) I get the sense that the top level professionals continually push themselves toward 100% perfection in what they do (which is a good thing.) But then they seem to get unreasonably fixated on the very small details that only pertain to the situation in rare instances, which tends to manifest itself in firm proclamations of "You must always do it THIS way" without much emphasis on its relative importance. And then everyone who learns from them has that burned into their minds. This makes it hard for a person starting out when they are bombarded with a laundry list of seemingly unbreakable, steadfast rules (as opposed to a prioritized list to help a beginner along.) Few people ask questions such as the one I asked above, and my experience is that when I have asked such a question, those with experience don't have a satisfactory answer beyond, "That's how I was taught to do it." I've broken many of these set rules in a variety of disciplines over the years and more times than not I do not experience the dire consequences the professionals predict. Thanks again for the video and the reply Andrew.
@@MisterGazda haha. totally agree with you. i experienced that in photo critiques. people are taught to look for X, and then they get overly fixated on judging your photo on how it lives up to X. over time you learn to accept or reject feedback.
i think it's a human behavior thing. the large majority of people fall on the middle of the bell curve of just following and perpetuating the rules, and not really dig into the roots of things. but i do think it's good to learn the rules so that you can break them when the time comes.
Amazing video, loved it. I want to ask you if choosing a glossy or luster paper won't be a problem when covered with glass, as we would have these 2 layers of reflective surfaces. This is why I have been printing on matte paper, although I am kind of new to framing and like the definition of the paper you used here. Thank you very much.
Not sure about glossy, but yea. Try out some satin papers. Ideally I’d love to frame it without glass, but dust and fingers tend to find their way onto the paper
@@andrewhkim so i guess you are not experiencing very annoying reflections from the satin papers, glad to hear that. Will try them out. Btw thanks for the super fast reply in both social medias.
Loved this video Andrew. It came out amazing! I have a question about the backing board. Do you typically just use a mat board behind the image then add a foam core behind it all or do you ever use the foam core as the actual backing behind the print instead of the mat board?
Thanks Carson! I use a 4-ply mat behind, then the foam core. I suppose you could do it directly on the foam, but it’s exposed to the back. So any poke thru damage may affect the print. Of course we’re talking small chances. Also, you’d have to tape the front mat directly to foam core, which could shift around and mess up your front window framing.
@@andrewhkim Very true! I enjoyed watching your process, it’s cool how you did it. I wish I had the space to do everything on my own like that. What size foam core backing would you usually recommend. Do you think 3/16 would be too thick for most frames?
Thank you for sharing, I am just curious about the name of the paper for the mat, can you give me an example of the paper? Thanks
I think these were Nielsen Bainbridge white matboards. But there's other brands out there you can look at. I personally like to get 32x40" full sheets, 8-ply, in white.
Ok, thanks.
Great content. I have a question about printing and framing fine art. I see many print with a 1-2 inch border. Some frame it with the border others hide border with matt. If the image is a 11x14 how big is the entire print? Do i use a frame that is several inches bigger to hold the border?
Not quite sure I understand your question. But this is why I like to mock-up in photoshop…so I can see the balance of image to border area.
For an 11x14” image, if you want borderless then print on 11x14” paper or larger. Cover with mat with a larger frame. Or no mat, then just insert into an 11x14” frame.
Дружище, поставь увлажнители воздуха. Бумага не будет так скручиваться.
Please whats the name of your Mat cutter. Thanks
Logan 850 Platinum Edge
@@andrewhkim Thank you so much How do you think it compares to Fletcher 2200?
Great video, was that an off the shelf frame or custom ordered to size?
Evan ordered a custom sized frame to get the right dimensions for the triptych. But for standard stuff, I've used off the shelf plenty of times.
Yes Illustrator is the far easier way.
Hey i just wanted to ask a quick question does it matter if I use a acid free mat ?
yea, go acid free if you care anything about long term preservation.
www.framedestination.com/blog/resources/acid-arts-natural-enemy
50.000 Dollares ... ;)
Rule no.1 when handling fine art paper: wear cotton gloves.
Selling it for 600? Backrupt yourself.