Nice Video! The screens were fantastic. In combination with the very bright viewfinder and nearly 100% coverage, manual focusing was always very quick and precise! I happened to work with FE and FE2, with the K- and E-screens. Never missed Autofocus until it came along…
I can count on one hand the channels I respect, and one of those is yours...why? you obviously know what you're talking about, and you do a show and tell that easy even for people like me. Thank you.
This video was helpful as I was looking to try a different screen on my nikon F. It currently has an A screen and i’ve tried the J and K screens on various nikkormats. I like the K but the micro prism blackout was a pain, especially where I wear glasses and love using my 200mm f4. I found a decent looking C screen (an oddity) for dirt cheap on ebay. From info I can find it’s meant for dim high magnification work with bellows and the reflex-nikkor lenses.
Ever since encountered half of the split image black out with the K screen on my F2A back in the late seventies, I have switched all my SLR and DSLR to the E screen.
Best explanation I've seen to-date, excellent. Always liked K screen but it could turn dark at times. Way back in the day focus was the least of worries but now I need all the help I can get:)
Hi Jules. Still appreciating the video i suggested. Its a great reference and bought a few screens now off your information. Super helpful. Big thanks 😎 Dave Sharp
Thanks great informative video. I purchased a Nikon F camera with the Ftn meter prism a couple of years ago and it came with the 'G' screen. Generally I could focus with it OK but since I'm used to the split image rangefinder screens in my other Nikon SLR cameras (the 'K' screen); I found an 'A' screen for my F which greatly assists my old eyes in precise focusing. Although the split-image in the 'A' screen seems to be smaller in area than in the split-image in my other Nikon cameras it works well. The only advantage to the 'G' screen for me was when using slower lenses..no split-image 'blackout'.
@@youtubeisannoying3907 I like the K screen, or if you don’t like the split image, you can try the H2 screen. Microprisms cover the entire screen, so you can focus anywhere on the screen. It’s also good in low light where you may be using a 1.2. Thanks for watching.
Hi Jules, I have an F2 and recently picked up what I thought was an H1 screen for it, but it turns out it’s for the F3. I read that as long as it’s not the “red dot” version, you can just flip it around so the “lip” is towards the front of the camera and it should work. It seems to fit pretty well that way, but I don’t know if the focusing will be right in the final photos. Do you have any advice?
As long as it fits I think it may be okay. I would carefully focus and shoot some test images of something with a lot of texture like a stucco wall. Shoot at a wide aperture with the sharpest lens you have. The 55mm micro Nikkor would be a good choice. After processing examine the film with a loupe. If it looks sharp then you should be okay. Let me know how you make out. Thanks for watching my video.
Thanks for the reply! I was a little hesitant about potentially wasting a roll of film testing it, but I did a little more research and read that you can switch the “frames” of the focusing screens. I have an A screen that came with my F2 that I do t care for, so I removed the screens from their frames and swapped the H1 to the frame of the F2 A screen. I plan on shooting this weekend and will let you know how it turns out!
Excellent video with superb real world actual examples. I have the Nikon F3 that has the K screen. I am interested in getting a H screen. Have you any suggestion of which version H2/H3 etc to work with a 35-70mm f3.5 zoom lens ?
This is slightly off topic. I can’t find a F2 Type E screen locally but I can find an F3 screen. Changing the metal brackets over will make it fit - but would the meter work the same with an F3 screen in the F2?
If you can make it fit I believe the meter would work the same. The screens for the F, F2 and F3 were not bright screens like the E2 for the FE2 so there should be no problem with the meter. It's just important that the screen sits in the camera exactly like an original screen for the F and F2 or else your focus will be off. Good luck. Let me know how you make out.
The F4 had some similar screens but not all. It all had screens showing the auto focus bracket. The F3 had many similar screens to the F and F2. Standard screen in the F3 was the K.
For street photography I prefer using a wide angle lens pre-focusing and then raising the camera to my eye quickly and shooting. So the screen doesn’t matter very much. The H2 allows focusing on any part of the screen, so if you prefer to focus it could be a good choice. It’s especially good in low light.
@@TheEricKSF The 28mm 2.8 AIS is excellent. Better than the 28mm 2.8 AI or pre AI. The minimum aperture will be amber color on the AIS. I also like the 35mm 2.0 and 24mm 2.8. But the 28mm 2.8 AIS is probably the best.
@@terrywbreedlove The K is my favorite screen for the F2. I had an F3, but I don’t remember if it was easier for me to focus than the F2. It could be that the F3’s prism was a little brighter.
@@julesvuottosphotofocus4696 The F2 is a recent gift and is like new. The F3 is the HP version and I did put a super mint finder on it a few years ago. I also got a Nikkormat EL which is in fantastic condition as well. Not like new as the F2 is but really pretty mint. But I have to many cameras and should let it go. 🤣
Nice Video! The screens were fantastic. In combination with the very bright viewfinder and nearly 100% coverage, manual focusing was always very quick and precise! I happened to work with FE and FE2, with the K- and E-screens. Never missed Autofocus until it came along…
I can count on one hand the channels I respect, and one of those is yours...why? you obviously know what you're talking about, and you do a show and tell that easy even for people like me. Thank you.
Great video. You deserve to have a lot more subscribers.
Thank you. I appreciate your comment.
Fantastic video. Very helpful.
Thank you very much. It’s difficult to find a good side by side comparison between different focusing screens where else.
Nice in depth video! your presentation is great and very helpful. Thanks!
This is excellent, many thanks. I bought a H2 screen for quite a low price recently and I didn't know any of it's features until watchigng this.
This video was helpful as I was looking to try a different screen on my nikon F. It currently has an A screen and i’ve tried the J and K screens on various nikkormats. I like the K but the micro prism blackout was a pain, especially where I wear glasses and love using my 200mm f4. I found a decent looking C screen (an oddity) for dirt cheap on ebay. From info I can find it’s meant for dim high magnification work with bellows and the reflex-nikkor lenses.
Ever since encountered half of the split image black out with the K screen on my F2A back in the late seventies, I have switched all my SLR and DSLR to the E screen.
Thank you, very helpful!!
@@oldfilmguy9413 Thank you. Happy to help.
Best explanation I've seen to-date, excellent. Always liked K screen but it could turn dark at times. Way back in the day focus was the least of worries but now I need all the help I can get:)
Thank you. I agree, it was much easier focusing with young eyes.
Hi Jules. Still appreciating the video i suggested. Its a great reference and bought a few screens now off your information. Super helpful. Big thanks 😎 Dave Sharp
Thanks Dave. Glad the video was helpful.
great job , you're the best when the subject is Nikon!
Thank you very much Daniel.
Thanks great informative video. I purchased a Nikon F camera with the Ftn meter prism a couple of years ago and it came with the 'G' screen. Generally I could focus with it OK but since I'm used to the split image rangefinder screens in my other Nikon SLR cameras (the 'K' screen); I found an 'A' screen for my F which greatly assists my old eyes in precise focusing. Although the split-image in the 'A' screen seems to be smaller in area than in the split-image in my other Nikon cameras it works well. The only advantage to the 'G' screen for me was when using slower lenses..no split-image 'blackout'.
Thank you very much this helps...
Fantastic vid. Thanks!
Thank you Johan
Thanks, great video!
Appreciate the video
Awesome
Video. A needed video for the nikon shooters
It's interesting that nearly impossible to find K screen. P screen is very expensive. H2 screen is really rare, too. Great video.
The K screen was the standard screen for the F3
Thanks for a great video ! Super stuff
Thanks. That's what I needed
Hey Jule's which screen you recommend for using with fast lenses like F1.2?
@@youtubeisannoying3907 I like the K screen, or if you don’t like the split image, you can try the H2 screen. Microprisms cover the entire screen, so you can focus anywhere on the screen. It’s also good in low light where you may be using a 1.2. Thanks for watching.
Hi Jules, I have an F2 and recently picked up what I thought was an H1 screen for it, but it turns out it’s for the F3. I read that as long as it’s not the “red dot” version, you can just flip it around so the “lip” is towards the front of the camera and it should work. It seems to fit pretty well that way, but I don’t know if the focusing will be right in the final photos. Do you have any advice?
As long as it fits I think it may be okay. I would carefully focus and shoot some test images of something with a lot of texture like a stucco wall. Shoot at a wide aperture with the sharpest lens you have. The 55mm micro Nikkor would be a good choice. After processing examine the film with a loupe. If it looks sharp then you should be okay. Let me know how you make out. Thanks for watching my video.
Thanks for the reply! I was a little hesitant about potentially wasting a roll of film testing it, but I did a little more research and read that you can switch the “frames” of the focusing screens. I have an A screen that came with my F2 that I do t care for, so I removed the screens from their frames and swapped the H1 to the frame of the F2 A screen. I plan on shooting this weekend and will let you know how it turns out!
Excellent video with superb real world actual examples. I have the Nikon F3 that has the K screen. I am interested in getting a H screen. Have you any suggestion of which version H2/H3 etc to work with a 35-70mm f3.5 zoom lens ?
Nikon recommends the H2 for the 43-86 zoom, so the H2 should work best with the 35-70. Thanks for watching my video.
@@julesvuottosphotofocus4696 thank you Jules for the update. I will try and source a H2.
This is slightly off topic. I can’t find a F2 Type E screen locally but I can find an F3 screen. Changing the metal brackets over will make it fit - but would the meter work the same with an F3 screen in the F2?
If you can make it fit I believe the meter would work the same. The screens for the F, F2 and F3 were not bright screens like the E2 for the FE2 so there should be no problem with the meter. It's just important that the screen sits in the camera exactly like an original screen for the F and F2 or else your focus will be off. Good luck. Let me know how you make out.
Thank you for the reply. I was able to get the F3 E type screen for $25 and switched the brackets - works well.
Great work. Would these screen designations also apply in case of Nikon F4?
The F4 had some similar screens but not all. It all had screens showing the auto focus bracket. The F3 had many similar screens to the F and F2. Standard screen in the F3 was the K.
Which finder would be best for street photography? The H2 sounds like a good candidate
For street photography I prefer using a wide angle lens pre-focusing and then raising the camera to my eye quickly and shooting. So the screen doesn’t matter very much. The H2 allows focusing on any part of the screen, so if you prefer to focus it could be a good choice. It’s especially good in low light.
@@julesvuottosphotofocus4696 what’s a good wide angle lens in your opinion? 28mm 2.8?
@@TheEricKSF The 28mm 2.8 AIS is excellent. Better than the 28mm 2.8 AI or pre AI. The minimum aperture will be amber color on the AIS. I also like the 35mm 2.0 and 24mm 2.8. But the 28mm 2.8 AIS is probably the best.
Hi! I’ve seen that there is E type E E2 and E3. What’s the difference? I can’t find information about that! Thanks!
The E2 is only for the FM2, FE2 and FA. The E3 is for the FM3A. All have etched grid lines.
Focusing is easier on my F3 than my F2. Maybe it is the softener screen. The F2 is just a little darker and looks like it has the A screen.
Do you have the K screen in the F3?
@@julesvuottosphotofocus4696 Yes it is the K.
@@terrywbreedlove The K is my favorite screen for the F2. I had an F3, but I don’t remember if it was easier for me to focus than the F2. It could be that the F3’s prism was a little brighter.
@@julesvuottosphotofocus4696 The F2 is a recent gift and is like new. The F3 is the HP version and I did put a super mint finder on it a few years ago. I also got a Nikkormat EL which is in fantastic condition as well. Not like new as the F2 is but really pretty mint. But I have to many cameras and should let it go. 🤣
@@terrywbreedlove it’s addictive.
Its Nikon not Neyekarn
Who cares man, you understand what he's talking about.