How To Seal Gaps And Holes In Siding | Keep Bugs and Cold Out!
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- Опубликовано: 31 май 2024
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I will show you how to fill small and large gaps in your siding. I have 2 products I prefer to use depending on the size of the gap or hole. In addition I will show you how to ensure the leftover material not used is saved for your next project around the house.
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The tip on how to clean out the spray foam can tip and tube is awesome! Thanks for sharing. I’ve never heard this before and have just thrown these items away in the past because I knew they would be hard and unusable by the time I needed them again.
As an electrician we always use duct seal for any type of service entry or conduit penetrations. Duct seal won’t deteriorate either and will be water tight.
Duct seal is so easy to use and just doesn't seem to deteriorate in either the sun or the snow
That's what I use. Lasts for years and then eventually replacing it is super easy
You can't paint it though right?
Actually I've spray-painted over duct seal myself, so I know it sort of works. But I'm curious if that's doomed to fail eventually.
Also the other issue in an exterior situation is buggies can probably get through it, although I could be wrong.
Your supply house may have it listed under Monkey Sh*t.
Homeowner here. Recently used the Locktite Gap & Crack foam sealer. I seem to recall there were two Locktite foam options, one for big gaps & one for smaller gaps. I used the one for smaller gaps. I found this option much easier to predict the amount of expansion. After trimming it came out with extremely small voids, even smaller than the Great Stuff sample you showed.
As for cleaning off between jobs I used denatured alcohol I put into a simple quart spray bottle. Like you I removed the nozzle / straw assemble although I didn't take off the hose. I sprayed alcohol through the sprayer / hose assembly & on to the top of the can. I didn't do anything special to the top of the spray can top. The denatured alcohol gets the foam off your hands, the can & out of the tube easily.
I am so happy that you solved the mystery of how to make the expanding foam reusable!!
What i do for keeping Silicone Caulking from going bad is I squeeze the handle and let about 1/2 of silicone hang out and then dry like that, next time you go to use it just pull that dried peice out and it will be good as when you first opened it.
ingenious 🤣
Was just about to write that ....that what i would always do
Hey that’s smart. Thank you.
Getto
Teaching this older gal some tricks. You're amazing!
Those airtight containers are just what I always needed! I bought 4! Thanks for the tip!
I greatly appreciate the tip about storing caulk in an air-tight tube. I had just recently been looking for an answer to that question. Thanks much.
4:37 reminds me of my trip to the doctor a couple days after a "great time" back in my college days.
Thank you.What an excellent video, great details without a lot of extra talking.But you answered so many of my questions.Thank you so much and god bless
You bet and happy to help!
All you need is a cheap rubber glove and put it on the tube and use packing tape to seal the end of it, it’ll last for months and months. Usually the dried silicon at the tip pops right out and everything below it is fresh
I tour the house perimeter in the spring, when it gets warm and pre-fall. We had a mice issue with the AC penetration and the specialist said, pack the openings with stainless steel mesh (think of it like a Brillo pad like material) and then seal over top. At times it’s best to put the silicone seal on a CLEANED off area, add the mesh with disposable gloves, and seal again so the mesh is imbedded in the silicone and pack it in tight where you can. If you have access to the inside, do the same. We have had zero issues since.
This is one of the most useful videos that I didn't know I needed. Thank you for the information and making it.
Dude that was awesome! Easy to understand instructions. My wife might actually let me try my hand at some DIY projects.
I use nail polish remover (acetone) to clear out the straw afterwards and it is clean as new in just a few seconds. I also spray it in the can nozzle and everything is good to go for next time. The acetone is also really helpful for getting foam off your hands or anything else you may have got it on
Another options is to use a bottle of rubbing Alcohol. Its cheap and it readily melts /dissolves away the uncured foam. Pour a drop or two into the can stem value too. Better yet the Alcohol dissolves the sticky stuff off your hands too.
Great explanation and perfect visuals covering all details. Thanks.
nice demonstration showing the voids in the foam 👍👍
For caulking cracks between smooth surfaces I have gotten in the habit of wiping down the contact surfaces with alcohol and let it dry before applying the caulking. The rubbing alcohol moisture and surface contaminants and really helps to bond the caulking to both surfaces. It is quick and easy to do with a small rag and bit of alcohol, but it seems to make a noticable difference.
Cheeper method to seal the chalk tube is hot glue. Works amazing seals like new. Another great video, always link these to my son so he learns about home maintenance tips.
A welcome reminder this time of year!
So happy I came across the tips for salvaging cans of spray foam. I recently purchased a can and only used a small amount, had to throw out the can and applicator
Scott great video I love your tips Keep up the good work. May God Bless you for all you do
Love your videos. You explain things so simply
Thanks!
Awesome tips Scott! Direct sunlight and heat from hot summer days factors into the decision. Paintable flex/elastic silicone plus a coat of exterior paint will help.
Pro Tip! Thanks Kevin.
Thanks for the tip on using WD40 to clean out the end piece. And for the tip on the air tight containers for the caulking
Thanks, great advise on the spray foam clean up!
Wow, love that container to seal up tubes. Great tip!
Pretty cool, right!
Warning: Do NOT use expanding foam under vinyl siding. When it expands then it can push the siding away from the structure.
I use plumber's putty. It is non hardening and seals very well. It is not messy and won't stick to your hands and waterproof and cheap.
I used this method too but with mixed results depending on the caulk. Seems to work good on water based stuff but less well on solvent based caulk and adhesives.
Acetone works for dissolving spray foam as well. I usually put a little in the straw and you can watch it dissolve all the way down.
👍
I ended up using Lexel recently instead of Silicon Caulk, and was really happy with it. The nice thing is that it'll stick to itself and you can paint it, unlike silicon.
Yea lexel is straight rubber, probably pretty similar to the flex seal stuff
Great Tips about cleaning up the spray foam tube
Thanks for the video. I think I need to try Duct seal as well. Have a great day!
I just use a piece of doubled over painter's tape to preserve chalk tubes. It lasts for months or years!
Thanks for the tip on sealing the back too.
Great vid and tips. Be careful with expanding foam. Some have such strong expanding strength can cause a crack.
Try a large blue wirenut (like the Ideal 454) for sealing caulk and adhesive tubes. The reds work well, too, for smaller tube applicator/nozzle cuts.
Best trick!
YES ! SOMEONE ELSE WHO KNOWS WIRE NUTS WORK BEST.
Great tips. Thank you.
Helpful info and products! Thank you.
Good advice mate! I used both. 💪🙂👍
One last thing you could do is gently blow out the tube after WD40 with compressed air like a blow gun, but protect your eyes. I’ve never seen that air tight caulking holder, so thanks for that tip too.
This guy’s great! I wonder how he learned so many practical tips.
Thanks Keith!
Great tip on the storage container!! Never knew those existed!
Person is rich now
Very good information in the video. Yes, it is frustrating to buy a can of spray foam for just a small project. I didn't realize that you could use WD-40 to clean the plastic applicator as well. The Air tight container is also very cool and I will likely buy a couple of those too!
Yeah. I just gave up and threw away an almost full can two days ago.
@@Cerceify Yes, I can relate. I have thrown away several partially-used cans of spray foam insulation over the years and did so today on a project. It kind of makes one wonder why the spray can foam insulation companies don't offer a can for smaller applications.
I use acetone to clean out dry foam from applicator and can tip. It eats it away almost instantly.
Thanks! Great suggestions on how to clean up the Great Stuff tube and trigger.
Thanks for the support 🙌
I usually pack it with spray foam then caulk on top. Smoothen it, paint it, it’s barely noticeable after. Works great on high visibility jobs such as exterior outlets etc.
I use that method as well. I use Great Stuff Window and Door foam. Doesn't expand as much as the regular spray foam.
Using backer rod (closed cell foam) works well to provide support for your sealant during cure and avoiding a 3 surface adhesion that tears the sealant loose when the surfaces expand/contract. This is the way curtain wall glass is installed in skyscrapers. Wish I could publish a simple drawing that shows. Easier drawn than explained...
Thanks for your clips
I rarely use caulk so I store it using a Food Saver bag and seal.
Great information!
Thank younso much! I worked like a charm
City use acetone to clear the spray foam from the tip and can. Works great.
After applying caulking, I use a small container of water and or water mixed with a few drops of soap to smooth out the applied silicone. The silicone while it is freshly applied will not stick to water. This is an easy way to shape and or form the application for a fine finish. From time to time rewet the tool/smoother or your finger as you do the work. Clean up the tool/smoother or your finger as needed to ensure a superb finish.
I didn't know WD-40 dissolves dry spray foam. Good tip! I use a screw and tape to seal silicone. Tape keeps the air out and the screw will pull out a small plug, should any air get in. I've used tubes stored for months and still fresh as new. I would need at least a dozen of those air tight containers, so nice product but not practical for my needs. Thanks for the info!
Great advice and great video
Great tips. Thanks
Very interesting 🤔.... thanks for your help
You ARE LITERALLY the ONLY person on RUclips that went over this stuff especially the foam can cleaning.
It took me months on what to use and accidentally stumbled upon duct seal, (because my electrician didn’t use anything behind my panel ) but having alternative methods is nice too ! 🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽
THank you! very informative
Scott! Thank you
I needed this
Great vid! I forgot how to wire an outlet though 😂
Thank you so much for your advice!!
Any time!
Great info, thx!!
Great content!
Very useful video. I use Loctite because it's denser.
Great tip on keeping the silicone caulking from drying out, just ordered two of those. Now, how do you keep PVC glue from drying out. I already do the vacuum bag seal trick and that sort of works, but not all that well. Any tips?
Really helpful, I recently realized I've got a lot of these kinds of gaps around my house. In addition to gaps around pipes coming into the house, my foundation actually has some gaps between some of the bricks. I'm not sure if they were supposed to be vents but I've got just every so often evenly spaced around the house bricks where there's no mortar between two of them as if they're supposed to be that way. And I kind of think that those probably should be sealed against bugs too, I had about 10 crickets get in the house this summer and I hate those things.
Those are vents to let out moisture and water that may have gotten behind the bricks. To keep bugs out try cutting screen to that size and curling the edges over to make a tiny rectangular box. Then slip it into the hole that way it can still vent but also keep bugs out.
@@jorymills652 I know they're supposed to be for venting but I think that that's not done anymore and it's generally considered better to completely seal the foundation but I'm not certain about that. As far as putting an anti bug screen I'm afraid it wouldn't really be possible. Literally it's just like they left the mortar out from between two bricks in a couple of places. I'm on a crawl space with no basement fyi.
@@Erydanus Not sure where you live up here in New England not many brick homes are being made anymore so they are all older with the vent holes. The vertical joints were used for venting and at least for here we use screens to keep out the bugs. If bugs become a real problem could always hire a pest control company to help with exclusion work.
Bare foam backer rod, intended for filling large gaps (for caulking), is pretty good for plugging brick veneer vent weep holes from insect/rodent intrusion. One would think mice could just chew through it (they can), but in my experience, they don't...
@@Erydanus wrong you have to let the moisture out from behind the brick and allow air circulation
We have had some "mouse noise" in our house at different times, checked all over, especially in the garage attached to the house.....no way in !!! As soon as your video started I said...S.O.B. !!!! It was dark out so I checked the opening...hmmmmm ? Down stairs and pulled out the pink insulation.....well now...pieces of the grey foam from around the tubes are "inside" the house, little buggers !!! I stuffed steel wool really good around the tubes on the inside....tomorrow will get to the outside...more steel wool and finish off with silicone stuff. Great help, thanks
Excellent!
good job! thanks share it!
Thank you, Sir. I didn't know that about WD 40 and spray foam. Damn, I guess even us old dogs can learn new tricks. 🙃 That alone earned you a sub from me, Sir. Keep 'em comin'!
Great video, lotsa good tips in there.
Thanks Josh!
thanks so much for the tips. they also let me know when I'm getting in over my head.
quick question. I live in an older home. recently resided the house and the 1940's interlocking siding is still there with new siding on top. is there a need to seal the bottom of the siding and the house without measuring I'm guessing about an inch up running pretty much around the entire house there is a gap-an open invitation for bugs. should it be sealed? not sealed because the house needs to breathe? it's the time of year when stink bugs, crickets, and spiders are working their way in, spring brings other critters such as sugar ants etc... or is this just something to live with?
thanks for all your sharing.
Thanks for the great & useful demos.
you can also use pure acetone/nail polish remover which is cheaper to clean foam...
Cool ..good ideas and insight. subbed !
Welcome to the channel 🙌
Thank you great great video.. someone was a wonderful role model for you growing up.. you are young but are a wealth of knowledge..I really need this information will do this over the weekend.. I noticed it's already a bit nippy in the mornings and now is the time to do this.. thank you!
Awesome love it thanx!
You bet
Awesome tips! Was wondering how to keep those consumables fresh longer.
The air tite tube probably is best to store caulk tubes in a vehicle. For home use, I have had the Red Cap mini condoms sized for the caulk nozzle keep caulk for a year at home. I was pleasently surprized becausr I did not think they would work.
Pipe cleaners work good in spray foam applicators also.
i got these little red rubber condoms that go on tip of caulking tubes you get them on amazon they are strong, and reusable comes in a little container
can i use expanding foam around the a/c lines to fill the holes around it? is it dangerous around the electrical wiring out outside with the sun. flamable etc? Im trying to close up pest holes.
Such a wonderful Great Stuff tip, straw and trigger cleaning tutorial. I didn't know that WD-40 could clear it out and always had to throw them away. I've said before, you always think of everything. If the tip doesn't clear well enough with a drywall screw or one like yours, could WD-40 be used in the tip and then be cleaned out with slow running tap water into it over a sink, from a glass over a bucket, or something like that?
I've been waiting for your next video. I bought a pack of 4-Port side-by-side 12-14 AWG Romex Push-In Wire Nuts from The Home Depot before finding your channel because an electrician used them and left me two of them, one of which I used, but wanted more. After seeing your Wago 221 Lever-Nut kind, I wanted to exchange the unused package for them, but they didn't have 4-Port, only 2, 3 and 5, so I returned them to buy the Wago from you. I bought the 36 piece pack because 8 5-Port should be enough for a while and I don't need 78 of them to get 18-5 Port. This box will be easier to store. That's all I need for now, but I'll shop your store the next time I need something you carry. Thanks for everything you do for us, Scott! I love your videos!
I really prefer Phenoseal to any silicone product. When applying, it cleans up with water whereas Silicone is a mess to get off. Phenoseal used to have displays where it was sold showing that it can be used as a tile grout. It doesn't discolor, comes in white, brown and clear and it will not shed paint as silicone products do. Once set up, it goes no where until removed. If a surface is not well prepared, silicone caulks can peel. Phenoseal does not. I much prefer a caulk that is maintenance free over silicone products. Home Depot in my area of Southern PA handle it as well as many hardware and construction supply stores in Maryland. It is great if you live by the Atlantic ocean. Salt air can be brutal along with sunlight. I have been using it since the 80's.
Best caulking hands down is big stretch or quad pro max . I prefer big stretch but both just as good
OSI makes a spray foam that is closed cell that would probably work great also i know its made for window and door installations i haven had a chance to use it yet.
It seems that Great Stuff has re-designed the dispensing straw and trigger, and you cannot easily take them apart. The trigger has clips that mean once you seat it, it can't be taken off the nozzle now, without breaking the small plastic tabs - and in the process dispensing more and more foam (by accident - thankfully onto the lawn that I could easily grab up). And the nozzle is a 2 part item that if you take the outer part off (it's clipped onto the trigger, which is plastic-wrapped onto the can) then you see the small nozzle you showed when you sealed a gap in a brick void, so apparently they've added an outside nozzle to the small straw.
Another great idea! Thanks
I use one of those guns and the screw on can of spray foam. Leave it on when not in use and it stays good till the next time its needed. If I ever need to clean off the spray foam I use Acetone
I just use a dab of hot glue to seal up partially used tubes - seals the opening completely and makes the tube last for at least a year or two. Doesn't do anything for the bottom of course but I haven't found that to be an issue. Still, good to know those air tight containers are available.
Although more expensive, the loc tite foam is worth it imo, much better adherabilty and seems to be more dense after drying, almost to a closed cell foam strength compared to the great stuff. I’ve used probably a hundred cans of great stuff, it works well for interior sealing projects but I find it doesn’t initially adhere as well to some materials and will slough off
Thanks for the feedback 👍
In tight areas I use squeeze tubes. No gun needed and they are smaller and flexible. Less waste too- you probably won’t use the whole big tube.
good video, you didn't do the outdoor water faucet though, is there a reason?
awesome
Expanding foam is a bit tricky. If you use too much it goes everywhere. Too little can leave small gaps. I have trimmed it off and cover with silicone after it is well cured. Some of those examples seemed like you might have left gaps. Always best to examine all sides carefully. You can test spray with water after a couple of days to make sure everything has cured.
I use Great Stuff Door and Window foam in the blue can. I bought the Great Stuff dispensing gun. I've got an old 50's house so for me it was well worth the price.
Always good material!!!
Thanks!
Is it possible to cover the silicone with waterproofing roof sealant to keep it protected for longer?
My favorite long way way to seal up a tube is to put a layer or two of plastic over the tip and then wrapping a rubber band over that. I've had open tubes last years with this. Short term, use a wire nut.
What type of plastic over the tip? Like the food Saran Wrap?
@@thezeta I use whatever is handy. Painters plastic, grocery bag, hot dog wrapper, most anything.
To give you an idea of how well this works, Two days ago I re-opened a tube that had the tip covered with two layers of painters plastic and a rubber band for well over a year. The rubber band was shot but the caulk worked just fine.
2:13 Looks like it's time for a video on how to replace the foam insulation on that A/C lineset. Probably should have done that before applying the silicone though so that you can get it wedged in the wall as much as possible.
I can’t believe it took 30K views to point that out 😂. I agree that insulation is well beyond needing replaced.