Thank you. Thank you for someone who doesn't treat these ABC systems like some sensitive overcomplicated swiss timepiece, but instead the relatively simple system that it is
For anyone on the fence about proactively changing the ABC pressure line that goes in front of the engine, do it! I have a 2012 SL550 with 40k miles and it just failed on me. Fortunately just at the end of my driveway so no pump damage. It is possible to change the line without doing anything special at the pump end (the hard part). With a very shallow T40 bit and a ratcheting wrench, I was able to remove the two flange bolts. It's tight and took a while but doable. I did have the serpentine belt and pump pulley removed (belt was covered in oil and replaced anyway). I have whiteboard in my garage/workshop and "replace ABC line" was on my winter punch list. This one will leave you stranded!
I have a 2006 CL500. I don't understand why people do ABC deletes. When properly working, it's AMAZING! I regularly maintain mine, but it is rare that people do so.
For the ABC flush, I have a scanner Foxwell NT510 that does the rodeo test....so a 1 man job for me. I have 20ltrs of Pentosin CHF-11S as well....good for 2 flushes at 10ltrs a flush.
Thank you 😊. I will continue to try and improve. Starting with cliff notes. In the future I will dive deep into HOW to perform the diagnosis. Hard to determine what the people want and need.
Great video. I did rare interventions on the ABC system and everytime I'm afraid that there's still pressure in the lines. Knock on wood so far, i've never had a serious issue with ABC but maybe i'm just lucky (2009's C216)
Hi Lou. Thanks for the great video on the ABC suspension system. I just bought a 2009 SL550 with 32K miles, one-owner, always dealer serviced. I flew to buy it and then drove it 1700 miles home. During that trip I noticed something odd about it that I never felt on my 2007 SL550. On certain road surfaces, it would very gently rock from side to side. This is more of a teeter motion, not a horizontal side to side motion. The teetering is not directly related to the road surface. In other words the car is over-reacting and seems to be making more adjustment to the suspension than is needed over bumps. Or somehow not reacting to minimize the movement as it should. This teetering was much worse when I test drove the car and I almost did not buy it because of this. It got much better over the course of my trip. I took it to my MB dealer and they checked everything over, did the rodeo exercise, and gave it a clean bill of health. When I asked about the subtle teetering, they told me that some of what I'm feeling is normal to the ABC suspension cars. My 2007 didn't exhibit anything like this and was generally a better handling car. I would love to hear what you have to say about this and I appreciate any time you can spare to help me out with this. Greg Roberts voltiaudio@gmail.com
I would look at the live data of the acceleration sensors. If they fail it can jolt the car and make it rock side to side . I have experienced minimum and maximum movement. It can scare the hell out of you when they fail it will shoot up a corner out of nowhere. So yes the car compensates for road since there is no sway bar but it’s possible you have a failing sensor.
@@MasterTechLou Can a failed sensor cause a very subtle, almost imperceptible movement? Is there something else in the system that can cause this? This is one of those things that I feel as I'm driving along, that others, including the techs as my MB dealership may not feel. It's always easier when something just plain fails and has to be replaced.
@@voltiaudio I have a 2012 (last year R230) with 40k miles and have had a similar feeling on mine since I bought it. It's a distinct side/side movement almost like it's tramlining but on smooth pavement. I chalked it up to tires because it's what I would call a quick "rubbery" side to side motion. I've just lived with it and it hasn't gotten worse.
@@bobd9868 That's a good way of describing it. When I brought it up to my MB service adviser, he said that's just the way those cars are. But my 2007 didn't feel that way at all. My 2007 came with the Continental tires that the previous owner installed and I never did an alignment to it. That car handled wonderfully. More precise on turn-in to a corner and I felt more confident in a corner than I do in my 2009. I put brand new Michelin tires on my 2009 and had my MB dealership do the alignment and it just isn't as good as the 2007 was. I wonder if the previous owner of my 2007 did something with the alignment or ?? to make the car handle better? I should never have sold that one. I got nervous because it was one of the early 550 engines with the potential timing gear issue and finances turned a bit for us at the time.
I have a 06 CL500. I love the ABC suspension. I don't understand why people would ever do a conversion to normal struts on a car that originally had ABC.
@@sethgt1234 - The only reason I can surmise as to why someone would put coilovers OVER the ABC system is.....cost. It's cheaper to supplement coilovers as opposed to fixing the ABC system because to actually fix the ABC system, it will cost you anywhere from $3k to $5k USD.....and that's no including the ABC pump IF it needs replacing.
Thanks for the great video! On the problem where you were scratching your head and eventually solved (18:25 in video) was the solution replacing the pump or did it include the valve block?
Excellent video Lou! I appreciate you taking the time to explain the details. I have an '06 SL500 to diagnose with the left front dropping. The owner was told by a local dealership the car needs a new ABC pump. I'm not thinking that's the cause due to the other 3 wheels not having an issue. I'll be looking for a valve code. Take care. -Glen
Hi please me to I got a S500 is give me issues with the calibration I'll input the value for it then it will later tell me the inclination angle does not meet it like the calibration was not successful and the shockes and level sensor are okay and some other things pls I got anybody who could help with this issue
my instrument cluster in my 2000 s500 w220 recently started smoking....white smoke is coming from behind my instrument cluster...i have never seen that bfore
Could you please cut out the music & let us concentrate on your excellent tutorial the music is distracting me from taking in what you are saying & showing us 😢😢
You open the bleeders on each strut with the engine off. Once the strut lowers, then you close the bleeder. Since you are pushing the fluid out of the strut when it is not running, if there's any air in the strut, it will come out of the bleeder. Once you start it and raise the car, you are pushing new fluid without air. That is how you bleed the air out of a new strut. If by chance you have air before the bleeders, then you open the bleeders while it's running. But usually doing a rodeo will get air out of the system unless the air is in the strut. I do a rodeo on my car every few months to get new fluid to flow through the parts that do not get new fluid in them from normal conditions. So it is actually recommended to do a rodeo ever so often.
Thank you for this video! For some reason YT doesn't give me an option to save it to my private playlist related to ABC. I have SL with ABC. I know the car is sagging on the front left wheel over time when I don't drive it. PS: man I wish Mercedes offered ABC as an option. I'm thinking to swap it with coilovers but then I need to figure out which PS-only pump to use (unless I loop the ABC portion of the tandem pump) and they say I'll need to install sway bars. What's interesting is that SL65 BS and other exotic MB cars came with regular spring suspension. I guess it was for a reason...
I would not trade my ABC for anything. It's a very simple system. At least the first generation. I don't think the other generations would be any harder to diagnose, but I have not had to really work on very many of them. I have driven many different European cars, but I have never driven anything like a W215 or W216 with ABC. You can have an amazingly comfortable ride to a very sporty ride with pretty much zero body roll with the push of a button. And having 3 different ride heights as well.
Hi Lou I just replaced all 4 shocks and dampeners on my SL600 I started the car and the right rear quick connect popped off I reattached it and started the car. Now I have no pressure DAS says it is the B4/5 sensor I was looking at the repair kit which is basically a new O ring will this solve my problem? Thanks Jay
Hi Lou, I recently bought a 2005 S55 with ABC suspension and I’m working through all the gremlins. Does the voltage of all the level sensors increase when raising the vehicle and voltages drop when lowering the vehicle? Someone worked on my car before and they mentioned they messed with the level sensors. When reading live data on my scanner I noticed that the front left and rear right sensor voltages drop when raising. Please advise and thank you for your help!
I have a 2008 S65. I want to swap out the front and rear accumulators just because of age. Is there any pressure there when the car has been off for a while? Do I need to have the car supported off of the wheels?
I would love to know what state your in I'd have you rebuild my valve block. What kit did you use my dealer is quoting 4700 for a rear block. Mine is an 03 with the original design
2001 Mercedes CL55 AMG Entering rodeo mode for piston pulse calibration test the car will quit the test right after the first movement and display "sensor error" on the diagnose tool (an Autel just like yours) Any hints on fixing this, please?
Hi, level sensor legs new and proper lenght, level sensors working good, drivers side 2cm differents from passenger side, voltage different on level sensors, did calibration nothing changed, I see on diagnostics some of the valves in closed position still have volts on, what do you think, No error at all, nothing all clear, car is one side 2cm higher than other, and front i moving up same like you said on video, I think O ring on both blocks and dirt???
Great video! Just wondering if there is anything that you need to do when replacing accumulators other than unscrewing it off and screwing a new one in.
And also when replacing a line. Is there anything that needs to be done other than removing the leaking line and installing a new line (other than replacing lost fluid)?
Hi Lou, Watching the first part of the ABC video, I'm sure you said there were two pressure relief bleeds on the driver's side front. One on the strut line and another in the area of the accumulator. You didn't point to this second point exactly. Now I can't find the point on the video where you made the statement and I can't find this second bleed point either. Can you help me out and tell me where it is if there is one? The reason I have this area open is that I'm planning to add a new section of hose on the P ( Car Killer) line. This hose section on my 2005 SL500 is original hard rubber and I'm concerned about failure. I'll use a Superloc coupling plus a section of new OEM line for the replacement. In your work do you see many hose failures on the ABC suspension as the miles and age of these cars is increasing?
You’re awesome bro! Thanks! How about when the car is turned off for a few days both sides go down and also when I drive it around it all stays leveled but when I put in reverse the right rear side goes down but then when I start driving it goes up after a few minutes? Thanks and look forward for answer!
Rebuild both valve blocks. I suspect that the drop you feel in reverse is that corner is raising during idle in park and is adjusting back to level when you start to move. ABC goes into a standby mode a few seconds after the car stops. In this mode, blocking valves are engaged, but control valves oscillate (not sure why) and ABC is not actively trying to level the car. If you have a bad blocking valve, the car can creep up on that corner and not be corrected until the car starts to move again. If you have diagnostics, watch the levels with car at idle. Generally, they will all creep up slowly, but you shouldn't get more than a mm or two per minute change.
Hey Lou I have a 2007 mercedes s600 and just purchased an autel maxicom MK808S. I had the car in the one click key position (engine off) and checked under the service and suspension options. All I have are calibration options for service there aren't any options to depressurize the system like you had in the video. I am trying to change the pulsation dampener on the front valve block because I believe there is a hairline crack on it at the weld and it is letting a small amount of air in the system causing the power steering reservoir to bubble and overflow past the cap in the engine. There is a whine when I turn the wheel.
@@derektreonze3275 are you using the service options from the Home Screen? Or going into the suspension module and seeing what options are there? I didnt think the 808 was that different than mine. But service is for like learning things or teaching in things. Where activations are turning things on and off.
@MasterTechLou I click the orange service button at the main screen and then I click suspension on the next screen that has all the service modules and then I click mercedes and punch in all the make / model info
2008 Mercedes-Benz CL550 ABC hydraulic suspension, I was oblivious of suspension until the day, the reservoir ran dry, the symptoms were, WHILE DRIVING THE driver side abruptly dropped and leveled out after about a min or half min, drove to auto part store, refilled hydraulic system reservoir with green hydraulic fluid, now sporadically left driver side abruptly drops and levels out, from time to time, seriously thinking about switching to coil overs, some advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance
@MasterTechLou I have found that some of the time, it's just a bad connection or corrosion on the plugs for the sensor/ sensors. I have fixed a few of them. I think that there was even a TSB about it on certain production dates.
Not Mercedes , but 2017 Jeep Summit 4 x 4 (97k Miles) Air Suspension issues. Air goes up and down great !, but the issues when driving over bumps it seems the struts are rattling. Bought 1 yr ago and Neighborhood dealership wants to replace entire air suspension system. I've never had any lights show on dash. At this time I don't have the codes , but can you make any suggestions. Thanks for the videos. Dusty
It is possible that the internals of the struts have looseness, in mercedes we would activate the sport mode to stiffen the struts and if the noise got worse we would know it was the strut. Sometimes we (dealers) would suggest the whole system as in all shocks/compressor/valve block to avoid return repairs since age does affect the decision. But ultimately its up to you if you want to pull the trigger. No one should force you to do anything unless its safety related. But might be worth a second opinion at another shop or have them have the technician talk to you who diagnosed your issue. Hopefully they are competent and not just guessing.
Hi! Thanks for the explanation! I got a question abut the ABC system : 2005 SL55 (custom car) blew a line I replaced the line filled the system with new fluid but now won't raise the RR and RF. It's giving me a code for low pressure 1524-64. Thank you
Hello Master Tech Lou. I have 2005 CL65. At low speed it make whine sound at low speed. The sound reminds me of a car with low power steering fluid. I believe I can "feel" the sound through the steering wheel. Could this be a bad accumulator? Thank you.
My W215 will level the body if I park on uneven ground. I think it only does it if I leave it running for like 30 seconds or so after putting it in park. A few times, I thought something was wrong with the suspension when walking up to the car because of how big of a difference in height on each wheelwell until I noticed that every time the body was perfectly level from front to back and side to side, but the ground it was parked on was definitely not even or level.
Thanks for the nice video. I have w221 2007 with ABC system and now I am experiencing issues with the system The first issue is that after passing over some road barriers when the tire is touching the ground, I am seeing red issue with ABC. Diagnosis shows low pressure, but after running again the engine issue is gone. The second issue is that randomly during driving, ABC malfunction yellow warning is comeup, and diagnosis shows 4 height sensor issues. After rerun the issue is gone for some time. Could you please remotely help to understand which component is broken? In my country I could not find any mechanics to understand ABC :( , and now I started to learn the system
@@MasterTechLou thanks for getting back to me. one of the dampeners is ill-formed, maybe I need to fix this. but it will show warnings on 4 sensors ? or only the broken side? and this also can be the reason for low-pressure errors sometimes? or it can be related to pump
Question I got an 08 s63 as soon as I start up the car the left front goes all the way up and now it’s stuck there I use my scanner and lower it as soon as It goes down it goes back up confused lol
Hey I have a 02 s430. It use to rise up but now it’s just sagging in front (scrubbing) . I can hear the pump turning off and on but it’s not rising up. It just says “stop, car too low” Do you have any suggestions? Thanks
Hi Lou, I’m working on a 2015 S550 and I need to replace the rear strut abc. A friend of mine lent me his Autel scanner but I can’t find the pressure release on the scanner? Can I replace that strut without this being done?
@@jerrellcrawford2879 there is no pressure release. You simple lower the strut with the scannner. Then you can loosen the bleeder on the line and it will lower more.
@@MasterTechLou thanks for quick response, but I can’t seem to find the section on the scanner to lower the struts? It just shows calibration mode. Am I just in the wrong section on it?
Great explanation sir! Quick question, if the car sinks over night but pumps up again and rides well is that a problem that won’t get worse? Mine used to take a couple of weeks but now much quicker than that. I’m not losing fluid tho. Great to get your thoughts as I’m sure I’m not the only one 😊
@@MasterTechLou thank you sir, I get the cause but I suppose what I’m really asking is that apart from seeing the car dropped right down, which is something I can live with given it’s only in occasional use, is there anything that could get worse by leaving it? Appreciate your reply sir 👍🏼
@@PJ-jg9bq yes you put undo stress on the pump as if its leaking overnight it means its also leaking as its running so the pump will constantly have to adjust the level. The question is, should it drop overnight yes or no? The answer is no. So it needs addressed 🙏
@@MasterTechLou 👍🏼perfect. Understood. I guess my next decision is whether to replace valve blocks or take on a re-sealing as you did in your video content. Is a reseal doable by a weekend warrior or no?
@@PJ-jg9bq I don’t have that answer as its too general a term “weekend warrior” 🤔 Probably took me 2 hours takin my time. I would say do your homework watching every video to see if it’s something youre comfortable with. I cant say what others are capable of, only the individual knows that. And the only way to learn is to fail every way possible but thats why I try and make these videos to help avoid failure
Hello, My name is Flavius and I am from Romania. I have a Mercedes SL 55 AMG R230 manufactured in 2003 and I have a problem with the ABC system that I will describe below, maybe you can help me with some advice. I start the car and I have no error on the ABC system, the car goes down and up from the button, after a few minutes of operation the first error appears with the message "drive carefully, in white". After a few more minutes the same message appears but in red and then I noticed that the oil level in the tank increases and it comes out, but even after I stop the engine it continues to flow. I also did a diagnosis, which says that the tandem pump is not making pressure. Thank you in advance!
Thanks for the extremely informative video man! Question for you: I'm looking at picking up a 2005 s55 amg that is giving a white ABC visit workshop, the car goes up and down fine, doesn't appear to be sagging, and seems to be handling smooth. I did notice however some dried up liquid near the ABC reservoir. Any tips on what I should look at here? I don't mind to put the work in, but don't want to set myself up either.
Get a scanner and read code’s first. Also this fluid doesn’t dry. It is oil, it collects dirt and grime. With a car this old Get ready to put in the work.
@@MasterTechLou what type of scanner would you recommend that wouldn't break the bank I have like a $60-$70 FOXWELL ODO11 scanner but I couldnt find anything.
@@Muscleman-b9o 2500$ pump. 1800$ shocks. 400$ lines. 20 year old abc systems are worst case scenarios 🤷🏼♂️ Anyscan a30m works great. But check all my videos I do lots of reviews
Excellent Video. Thank you. A quick question. Wife just bought a 2003 SL500. I have fixed a number of things on it and am going to do an ABC flush, (no leaks and it appears to work fine). Would you recommend bleeding each strut first as it is not a through system and I am thinking it might get fluid out that might not otherwise be replaced. Thanks again for the Common Sense, clear and concise video.
I've got a 2005 cl500 which has a noisy ABC system. I have replaced the sphere behind the right front wheel (pulsation damper) with a new one and I've changed the pump twice. Currently running a remanufactured pump which should be perfect but with all 3 pumps it has been noisy. A whining noise that is worst between 1k - 2k rpm but is eclipsed by engine noise after that.
@@mawin5899 I would run the engine with no belt to be sure the noise is from the abc system or engine accessories. Based on your issue its copy paste symptoms of a bad pulsation dampener we had a bulletin for. But you can also have a line that is not routed properly so its rubbing the body. Or you may have another failed dampener somewhere in the system. Use a stethoscope to narrow the noise down.
@@MasterTechLou without a belt the noise goes away. The noise comes from the front of the car. So I always thought it was odd that the pulsation damper being behind the front wheel would cause noise up at the pump. Is that typically how the pulsation damper issue looks? I've only got my own car for experience of this problem so can't compare having only seen this noise once on one car.
Great video lou!! I have a question i really hope you get to see and answer for me. I have a 2014 S550 i replaced the 2 front struts ABC suspension about 7 months ago because they were wet and needed replacing, i kept hearing a loud knock every time i started the car and one day i came into my garage and there was a good amount of fluid on the floor and engine bay it burped out the reservoir overnight, i then replaced the 2 front struts after doing so the knock went away after starting the car, no leak no knock now 7 months later i turn the car on and i hear a mild knock i get home and in the morning i notice it burped again not a whole lot but it did it i also noticed it said ABC malfunction for a split second and it went away car drives normal now no changes it hasn't burped overnight and i haven't heard the knock when starting the car, here's the million dollar question donyou think it's the front driver side control valve that's acting up? Since the knock seems to be coming from the front left. It's driving me nuts how it just randomly happened.
Thanks for the nice comment. I am not sure on your issue. It is nothing that sounds familiar or common. Also the abc doesnt “burp” If fluid is coming out then it is most likely overfilled or there is another issue .
Hi, I saw your video. I have a 2005 SL500 and I’ve keep getting code (C1526 008 - Fault in hydraulic circuit at rear right suspension strut) whenever I hit large dips in the road at high speeds, the car gets spongy. when I stop and shut off the car and start it back up everything goes back to normal. I’ve replaced everything….ABC pump, all accumulators, rebuilt both valve blocks, flushed system, 3 times, and performed the RODEO and my pump is putting out 194 bar. The car drives fine but, I only get that malfunction warning when I hit hard dips. Why am I getting that malfunction when everything has been replaced?
Hydraulic circuit fault is thrown when the control senses that the strut is not responding the way it is trying to control it. If it is trying to extend the strut, but it is retracting instead for example. I suspect the right rear control valve. I would do manual actuations of the right rear strut and see if it reacts as it should and compare the raising and lowering speeds to the left rear. You could also do a rodeo and see if that corner is moving through the full range of travel, or if it ends up closer to fully raised or lowered. That can indicate a control valve that is internally bypassing.
The car raises and lowers with no issues and throws no other codes. I can hit a bump at high or low speeds and it’s fine but, if I hit large dips at certain speeds that causes the car to dip heavily then it will throw that code. So do you think changing the strut would help because I actually have two rebuilt rear struts that I haven’t installed yet.
Lou Thanks for this great video .I have a 2003 sl55 When I drive it and put it away for the night it sags. Then the next day when the fluid cools I restart it and it relevels it self and it won't sag for almost two weeks. Can this be a viscosity issue? I want to rebuild the valve blocks but I think if it isn't broke don't fix it, Your thoughts? Thanks Harry
Hi please me to I got a S500 is give me issues with the calibration I'll input the value for it then it will later tell me the inclination angle does not meet it like the calibration was not successful and the shockes and level sensor are okay and some other things pls I got anybody who could help with this issue
@@MasterTechLou Thank you very much, the buttons inside are not working, they are stuck in Sport… do you know if it is related to that? If I calibrate everything correctly, it will work normally again?
@@MasterTechLou my friend from the channel, I want to ask you for help, my cls 550 is making a noise when I turn it at low speed or when parking, and now the steering has become harder, so I need to change the stabilizer bar link and the stabilizer bar?
hey, good afternoon my brother like the video I have a 2005 Mercedes-Benz SL 500 that’s only going into One gear, but the ABC light is the only thing that’s coming on can you render me some assistance thanks
Thank you 😊 MS906BT. I recommend it if you can find it at a good price point, but the battery failed too quickly in my opinion. Only had it 2 years and it dies very quickly….. very upsetting for an almost 2k tool…..
Thanks for your videos. If your a Mercedes dealership in Chicago do you know a guy that worked there. His name is Alex. He has a TikTok channel and a RUclips channel. I started following his videos because he works on Mercedes. Thanks.
Hey there. I had listen to the part where the only thing that can change the ride hight is messing phisicaly with the ride high sensors on the upper control arms. Absolutly agree. I have done the seals replacemet on the front and rear valve block and changed the shocks. The thing is i had to replace the upper control arms due to the end that connects the break, the rubber is gone. On the "02 the upper control arm was a single piece, i had to replace with a later model of control arm that is near identical because the original part was not in production anymore. This new control arm had the holes to attach the sensors, but one of the holes was a little off, so i had to extend the hole In order to the sensor place fit there. Didnt try it yet, but since phisicaly i had to move and change the sensor, i sense it will not be level. Probably have to go to the calibration mode as like you said its messy. Any suggestions? Thanks
These r230 are getting to be 20 years old, Don't let coilovers scare you, unfortunately can't work on my car. But I went to a suspension shop it cost me $675. I went with hiro coilovers $1000. Now ride quality is the equivalent of sport now those of you who did not have these cars and you want to drive in Grandpa's mode sorry I wouldn't recommend . There is three modes, sport and active body control and of course Grandma's mode. Handling is better and I think you pick up speed little bit. You can spend thousands of dollars each time you bring it in the shop why don't you be done with it and get some coilovers, You can avoid the red light once you ve by unplugging a fuse it's on RUclips oh 0 avoid strut masters because they're not adjustable
Greetings Lou...I have a question about my 2000 CL500 at the dealership right now with an ABC that lifts on the passenger side when the key is shut off. Prior to this, I had a hose burst in the front valve block and had replaced it with one from a hydraulic shop, but on occasion afterwards would still get the red: CAR TOO LOW message, so I replaced the front accumulator after the reservoir overflowed when the car was shut off....When that was done is when my car would lift on the passenger side when shut off, so I had the rear accumulator replaced, but the problem persists. l can drive the car, but at stop lights etc. when I take my foot off the brake it lifts slightly at the rear on the passenger side. Further to that, when I drive the car it would occasionally 'ping' then flash the red CAR TOO LOW message briefly. As such, I intended to change the Return Accumulator on the Rear Valve Block and so I got an upgraded, but used, Valve Block unit on ebay. This is where I am now, with the car at the dealrship for an oil change and what I hoped would have been a solution to my problem, but they say they can't diagnose the car as it is not communicating with the CAN....smh I'm supposed to go in and speak with the shop foreman, but as fate would have it I saw your *excellent video* this morning and thought I'd ask your opinion on if I should have them install the valve block and return line accumulator to see if that solves the problem. P.S. I also get some sagging after a few days on the front left side....BUT...I am uncertain as to which valve block causes my car to lift on the passenger sides when it's shut off -- Should I replace *both* valve blocks? Many Thanks
@@MrIFARI most answers are in my video. Valve blocks are common to leak and backflow fluid but if the valve on the pump sticks it will allow fluid to backflow to the reservoir
@@MasterTechLou Thanks...The dealer tech says the pump is good...just got to see which valve block needs changing and go that route....I may need to change both, but will keep you posted. Cheers. "Gotta pay the cost to be the boss" - James Brown
@@MasterTechLou The dealer says the car CAN Bus won't communicate with their STAR diagnostics and say they want 2-5 hours to remove the seats and carpets to track down why before replacing parts...smh...Thoughts?
You open the bleeders on each strut with the engine off. Once the strut lowers, then you close the bleeder. Since you are pushing the fluid out of the strut when it is not running, if there's any air in the strut, it will come out of the bleeder. Once you start it and raise the car, you are pushing new fluid without air. That is how you bleed the air out of a new strut. If by chance you have air before the bleeders, then you open the bleeders while it's running. But usually doing a rodeo will get air out of the system unless the air is in the strut. I do a rodeo on my car every few months to get new fluid to flow through the parts that do not get new fluid in them from normal conditions. So it is actually recommended to do a rodeo ever so often.
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you. Thank you for someone who doesn't treat these ABC systems like some sensitive overcomplicated swiss timepiece, but instead the relatively simple system that it is
For anyone on the fence about proactively changing the ABC pressure line that goes in front of the engine, do it! I have a 2012 SL550 with 40k miles and it just failed on me. Fortunately just at the end of my driveway so no pump damage. It is possible to change the line without doing anything special at the pump end (the hard part). With a very shallow T40 bit and a ratcheting wrench, I was able to remove the two flange bolts. It's tight and took a while but doable. I did have the serpentine belt and pump pulley removed (belt was covered in oil and replaced anyway).
I have whiteboard in my garage/workshop and "replace ABC line" was on my winter punch list. This one will leave you stranded!
I have a 2006 CL500. I don't understand why people do ABC deletes. When properly working, it's AMAZING! I regularly maintain mine, but it is rare that people do so.
You nailed it! You helped me a lot! Finally finished my CL level calibration with success. Thanks a lot 🙏👏👍
For the ABC flush, I have a scanner Foxwell NT510 that does the rodeo test....so a 1 man job for me. I have 20ltrs of Pentosin CHF-11S as well....good for 2 flushes at 10ltrs a flush.
Really enjoyed the one you put together for Airmatic, I know this ABC one is going to be just as solid!
Thank you 😊.
I will continue to try and improve. Starting with cliff notes. In the future I will dive deep into HOW to perform the diagnosis. Hard to determine what the people want and need.
Bro I’ve been combing through RUclips for this exact video . Thank you for making ❤
Great video. I did rare interventions on the ABC system and everytime I'm afraid that there's still pressure in the lines. Knock on wood so far, i've never had a serious issue with ABC but maybe i'm just lucky (2009's C216)
Hi Lou. Thanks for the great video on the ABC suspension system. I just bought a 2009 SL550 with 32K miles, one-owner, always dealer serviced. I flew to buy it and then drove it 1700 miles home. During that trip I noticed something odd about it that I never felt on my 2007 SL550. On certain road surfaces, it would very gently rock from side to side. This is more of a teeter motion, not a horizontal side to side motion. The teetering is not directly related to the road surface. In other words the car is over-reacting and seems to be making more adjustment to the suspension than is needed over bumps. Or somehow not reacting to minimize the movement as it should. This teetering was much worse when I test drove the car and I almost did not buy it because of this. It got much better over the course of my trip. I took it to my MB dealer and they checked everything over, did the rodeo exercise, and gave it a clean bill of health. When I asked about the subtle teetering, they told me that some of what I'm feeling is normal to the ABC suspension cars. My 2007 didn't exhibit anything like this and was generally a better handling car. I would love to hear what you have to say about this and I appreciate any time you can spare to help me out with this. Greg Roberts voltiaudio@gmail.com
I would look at the live data of the acceleration sensors. If they fail it can jolt the car and make it rock side to side . I have experienced minimum and maximum movement. It can scare the hell out of you when they fail it will shoot up a corner out of nowhere. So yes the car compensates for road since there is no sway bar but it’s possible you have a failing sensor.
@@MasterTechLou Can a failed sensor cause a very subtle, almost imperceptible movement? Is there something else in the system that can cause this? This is one of those things that I feel as I'm driving along, that others, including the techs as my MB dealership may not feel. It's always easier when something just plain fails and has to be replaced.
@@voltiaudio I have a 2012 (last year R230) with 40k miles and have had a similar feeling on mine since I bought it. It's a distinct side/side movement almost like it's tramlining but on smooth pavement. I chalked it up to tires because it's what I would call a quick "rubbery" side to side motion. I've just lived with it and it hasn't gotten worse.
@@bobd9868 That's a good way of describing it. When I brought it up to my MB service adviser, he said that's just the way those cars are. But my 2007 didn't feel that way at all. My 2007 came with the Continental tires that the previous owner installed and I never did an alignment to it. That car handled wonderfully. More precise on turn-in to a corner and I felt more confident in a corner than I do in my 2009. I put brand new Michelin tires on my 2009 and had my MB dealership do the alignment and it just isn't as good as the 2007 was. I wonder if the previous owner of my 2007 did something with the alignment or ?? to make the car handle better? I should never have sold that one. I got nervous because it was one of the early 550 engines with the potential timing gear issue and finances turned a bit for us at the time.
Yeah, I've got a 2009 SL550 with 951 AMG package. I got the gen. 2 ABC system. Car has 18.1k miles on it. No issues on the ABC system.
I have a 06 CL500. I love the ABC suspension. I don't understand why people would ever do a conversion to normal struts on a car that originally had ABC.
@@sethgt1234 - The only reason I can surmise as to why someone would put coilovers OVER the ABC system is.....cost. It's cheaper to supplement coilovers as opposed to fixing the ABC system because to actually fix the ABC system, it will cost you anywhere from $3k to $5k USD.....and that's no including the ABC pump IF it needs replacing.
Thanks for the great video! On the problem where you were scratching your head and eventually solved (18:25 in video) was the solution replacing the pump or did it include the valve block?
Great video and information. These are not a magic black box. Slow down and think it through.
Excellent video Lou! I appreciate you taking the time to explain the details. I have an '06 SL500 to diagnose with the left front dropping. The owner was told by a local dealership the car needs a new ABC pump. I'm not thinking that's the cause due to the other 3 wheels not having an issue. I'll be looking for a valve code. Take care. -Glen
Hi please me to I got a S500 is give me issues with the calibration I'll input the value for it then it will later tell me the inclination angle does not meet it like the calibration was not successful and the shockes and level sensor are okay and some other things pls I got anybody who could help with this issue
@OlarewajuAbdulazeez I'd start looking and diagnose at the valve block.
my instrument cluster in my 2000 s500 w220 recently started smoking....white smoke is coming from behind my instrument cluster...i have never seen that bfore
Yeah they were problematic with internals failing but I have also never seen smoke
Can you do a video on how to change air compressor filter and motor for windows and how to change light bulbs on the car
Could you please cut out the music & let us concentrate on your excellent tutorial the music is distracting me from taking in what you are saying & showing us 😢😢
Didn’t notice the music until I saw this comment 🤣
You are awesome! Just subscribed!!! Sir, maybe it’s a good idea to make a dedicated video on depressurizing the abc system.
Good thought!
Thanks!
Thank you. How about the plunger on the rear driver side strut, do you recommend replacing that instead of the whole strut?
You open the bleeders on each strut with the engine off. Once the strut lowers, then you close the bleeder. Since you are pushing the fluid out of the strut when it is not running, if there's any air in the strut, it will come out of the bleeder. Once you start it and raise the car, you are pushing new fluid without air. That is how you bleed the air out of a new strut. If by chance you have air before the bleeders, then you open the bleeders while it's running. But usually doing a rodeo will get air out of the system unless the air is in the strut. I do a rodeo on my car every few months to get new fluid to flow through the parts that do not get new fluid in them from normal conditions. So it is actually recommended to do a rodeo ever so often.
Wow very informative bro cause I repair Mercedes on a daily
Thank you for this video! For some reason YT doesn't give me an option to save it to my private playlist related to ABC. I have SL with ABC. I know the car is sagging on the front left wheel over time when I don't drive it. PS: man I wish Mercedes offered ABC as an option. I'm thinking to swap it with coilovers but then I need to figure out which PS-only pump to use (unless I loop the ABC portion of the tandem pump) and they say I'll need to install sway bars. What's interesting is that SL65 BS and other exotic MB cars came with regular spring suspension. I guess it was for a reason...
I would not trade my ABC for anything. It's a very simple system. At least the first generation. I don't think the other generations would be any harder to diagnose, but I have not had to really work on very many of them. I have driven many different European cars, but I have never driven anything like a W215 or W216 with ABC. You can have an amazingly comfortable ride to a very sporty ride with pretty much zero body roll with the push of a button. And having 3 different ride heights as well.
Hi Lou I just replaced all 4 shocks and dampeners on my SL600 I started the car and the right rear quick connect popped off I reattached it and started the car. Now I have no pressure DAS says it is the B4/5 sensor I was looking at the repair kit which is basically a new O ring will this solve my problem?
Thanks Jay
Excellent informational video.
What autel model would you recommend for diagnosing ?
Great explanation as always Lou, Thanks
Hi Lou, I recently bought a 2005 S55 with ABC suspension and I’m working through all the gremlins.
Does the voltage of all the level sensors increase when raising the vehicle and voltages drop when lowering the vehicle?
Someone worked on my car before and they mentioned they messed with the level sensors. When reading live data on my scanner I noticed that the front left and rear right sensor voltages drop when raising.
Please advise and thank you for your help!
I have a 2008 S65. I want to swap out the front and rear accumulators just because of age. Is there any pressure there when the car has been off for a while? Do I need to have the car supported off of the wheels?
About to purchase a 04 sl55 and it helps to know this stuff because I know this can be expensive to replace
I would love to know what state your in I'd have you rebuild my valve block. What kit did you use my dealer is quoting 4700 for a rear block. Mine is an 03 with the original design
2001 Mercedes CL55 AMG
Entering rodeo mode for piston pulse calibration test the car will quit the test right after the first movement and display "sensor error" on the diagnose tool (an Autel just like yours)
Any hints on fixing this, please?
Hi, level sensor legs new and proper lenght, level sensors working good, drivers side 2cm differents from passenger side, voltage different on level sensors, did calibration nothing changed, I see on diagnostics some of the valves in closed position still have volts on, what do you think, No error at all, nothing all clear, car is one side 2cm higher than other, and front i moving up same like you said on video, I think O ring on both blocks and dirt???
Super dooper vid guy very informative
Great video! Just wondering if there is anything that you need to do when replacing accumulators other than unscrewing it off and screwing a new one in.
And also when replacing a line. Is there anything that needs to be done other than removing the leaking line and installing a new line (other than replacing lost fluid)?
Depressurize the system like I explained then filling fluid and cycling the suspension up and down
Always great content
Thanks Lue 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you 😊
Hey lou,my cl 600 is stiff,all accumulators are new,suspension arms ok,level is also ok..where should i check for having a soft one?thanks
Thank you for the intelligent video. Do you think it is wise to air suspension with spring?
I dont understand the question?
Hi Lou,
Watching the first part of the ABC video, I'm sure you said there were two pressure relief bleeds on the driver's side front. One on the strut line and another in the area of the accumulator. You didn't point to this second point exactly. Now I can't find the point on the video where you made the statement and I can't find this second bleed point either. Can you help me out and tell me where it is if there is one?
The reason I have this area open is that I'm planning to add a new section of hose on the P ( Car Killer) line. This hose section on my 2005 SL500 is original hard rubber and I'm concerned about failure. I'll use a Superloc coupling plus a section of new OEM line for the replacement.
In your work do you see many hose failures on the ABC suspension as the miles and age of these cars is increasing?
You’re awesome bro! Thanks! How about when the car is turned off for a few days both sides go down and also when I drive it around it all stays leveled but when I put in reverse the right rear side goes down but then when I start driving it goes up after a few minutes? Thanks and look forward for answer!
Rebuild both valve blocks. I suspect that the drop you feel in reverse is that corner is raising during idle in park and is adjusting back to level when you start to move. ABC goes into a standby mode a few seconds after the car stops. In this mode, blocking valves are engaged, but control valves oscillate (not sure why) and ABC is not actively trying to level the car. If you have a bad blocking valve, the car can creep up on that corner and not be corrected until the car starts to move again. If you have diagnostics, watch the levels with car at idle. Generally, they will all creep up slowly, but you shouldn't get more than a mm or two per minute change.
Another great video
Thanks a lot,,,,greeting from Bangkok,,,,
❤️ 🇹🇭 🙏
Hey Lou I have a 2007 mercedes s600 and just purchased an autel maxicom MK808S. I had the car in the one click key position (engine off) and checked under the service and suspension options. All I have are calibration options for service there aren't any options to depressurize the system like you had in the video. I am trying to change the pulsation dampener on the front valve block because I believe there is a hairline crack on it at the weld and it is letting a small amount of air in the system causing the power steering reservoir to bubble and overflow past the cap in the engine. There is a whine when I turn the wheel.
There is also vibration in the cabin.
@@derektreonze3275 are you using the service options from the Home Screen? Or going into the suspension module and seeing what options are there?
I didnt think the 808 was that different than mine. But service is for like learning things or teaching in things. Where activations are turning things on and off.
@MasterTechLou I click the orange service button at the main screen and then I click suspension on the next screen that has all the service modules and then I click mercedes and punch in all the make / model info
@ yeah that is not correct I don’t believe. Pick car, auto or manual scan then suspension then you should see the activation option I believe
After it collects the make / model info it brings me to the screen with the different calibrations, it only has 5 of them on it
2008 Mercedes-Benz CL550 ABC hydraulic suspension, I was oblivious of suspension until the day, the reservoir ran dry, the symptoms were, WHILE DRIVING THE driver side abruptly dropped and leveled out after about a min or half min, drove to auto part store, refilled hydraulic system reservoir with green hydraulic fluid, now sporadically left driver side abruptly drops and levels out, from time to time, seriously thinking about switching to coil overs, some advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance
@@RP-ol1ts pretty sure I mention it in my video 🤔 the acceleration sensor can be bad causing crazy adjustments for no reason.
@MasterTechLou I have found that some of the time, it's just a bad connection or corrosion on the plugs for the sensor/ sensors. I have fixed a few of them. I think that there was even a TSB about it on certain production dates.
Whats your thoughts about airmatic lowering links? Does it mess any thing up?
It doesnt mess anything up its the best way to adjust height. I approve 🙏😊
Thank you so much for your knowledge God bless you
Not Mercedes , but 2017 Jeep Summit 4 x 4 (97k Miles) Air Suspension issues. Air goes up and down great !, but the issues when driving over bumps it seems the struts are rattling. Bought 1 yr ago and Neighborhood dealership wants to replace entire air suspension system. I've never had any lights show on dash. At this time I don't have the codes , but can you make any suggestions. Thanks for the videos. Dusty
It is possible that the internals of the struts have looseness, in mercedes we would activate the sport mode to stiffen the struts and if the noise got worse we would know it was the strut. Sometimes we (dealers) would suggest the whole system as in all shocks/compressor/valve block to avoid return repairs since age does affect the decision. But ultimately its up to you if you want to pull the trigger. No one should force you to do anything unless its safety related. But might be worth a second opinion at another shop or have them have the technician talk to you who diagnosed your issue. Hopefully they are competent and not just guessing.
Hi! Thanks for the explanation! I got a question abut the ABC system : 2005 SL55 (custom car) blew a line I replaced the line filled the system with new fluid but now won't raise the RR and RF. It's giving me a code for low pressure 1524-64. Thank you
Excellent video!!
Hello Master Tech Lou. I have 2005 CL65. At low speed it make whine sound at low speed. The sound reminds me of a car with low power steering fluid. I believe I can "feel" the sound through the steering wheel. Could this be a bad accumulator? Thank you.
Yes bad accumulator. Early models had it on the valve block like in my video, later versions had it on top the pump. Easy fix.
Thank you. @@MasterTechLou
My W215 will level the body if I park on uneven ground. I think it only does it if I leave it running for like 30 seconds or so after putting it in park. A few times, I thought something was wrong with the suspension when walking up to the car because of how big of a difference in height on each wheelwell until I noticed that every time the body was perfectly level from front to back and side to side, but the ground it was parked on was definitely not even or level.
Thanks for the nice video.
I have w221 2007 with ABC system and now I am experiencing issues with the system
The first issue is that after passing over some road barriers when the tire is touching the ground, I am seeing red issue with ABC. Diagnosis shows low pressure, but after running again the engine issue is gone.
The second issue is that randomly during driving, ABC malfunction yellow warning is comeup, and diagnosis shows 4 height sensor issues. After rerun the issue is gone for some time.
Could you please remotely help to understand which component is broken?
In my country I could not find any mechanics to understand ABC :( , and now I started to learn the system
@@razmikkarapetyan4817 bad dampeners will cause warnings over bumps because the air in the system is moving around.
@@MasterTechLou thanks for getting back to me.
one of the dampeners is ill-formed, maybe I need to fix this. but it will show warnings on 4 sensors ? or only the broken side?
and this also can be the reason for low-pressure errors sometimes? or it can be related to pump
Question I got an 08 s63 as soon as I start up the car the left front goes all the way up and now it’s stuck there I use my scanner and lower it as soon as It goes down it goes back up confused lol
Sounds like level sensor issue. Linkage. Or stuck valve block. Car thinks it needs to raise.
Thanks a lot, dude, I tried to use my launch tool to lower the AB.C.But I'm having trouble make it stay there.What do you recommend?I set it at
Adjustable links. You cant lower with the scanner it will kick you out
@@MasterTechLou last time I tried it they were hard to come apart and install the new ones so I broke the plastic piece coming off of the level sensor
Hey I have a 02 s430. It use to rise up but now it’s just sagging in front (scrubbing) . I can hear the pump turning off and on but it’s not rising up. It just says “stop, car too low”
Do you have any suggestions? Thanks
Also what “fluid” are you referring to?
@@taahiramuhammad4115 I am pretty sure that the S430's have airmatic, not ABC.
You probably have a bad air strut, large leak, bad air valve block, bad pump, or bad level sensor.
Hi on my 2003 CL 500 the car stay up on driver side in the back , is that mean the leveler sensor
Hi Lou, I’m working on a 2015 S550 and I need to replace the rear strut abc. A friend of mine lent me his Autel scanner but I can’t find the pressure release on the scanner? Can I replace that strut without this being done?
@@jerrellcrawford2879 there is no pressure release. You simple lower the strut with the scannner. Then you can loosen the bleeder on the line and it will lower more.
@@MasterTechLou thanks for quick response, but I can’t seem to find the section on the scanner to lower the struts? It just shows calibration mode. Am I just in the wrong section on it?
@@jerrellcrawford2879 activations and its raise or lower . Just dont enter calibration mode
@@MasterTechLou found it thanks! 👍
Hi I have à sl500 2003 when I start the car I hear air from the rear left valve. Is it normal
I don’t know what youre askin. Those are hydraulic and not air.
Great explanation sir!
Quick question, if the car sinks over night but pumps up again and rides well is that a problem that won’t get worse? Mine used to take a couple of weeks but now much quicker than that. I’m not losing fluid tho.
Great to get your thoughts as I’m sure I’m not the only one 😊
@@PJ-jg9bq thank you. My thoughts? Well my friend the answer to your question is in my video. Internal fluid leaking through the valve blocks.
@@MasterTechLou thank you sir, I get the cause but I suppose what I’m really asking is that apart from seeing the car dropped right down, which is something I can live with given it’s only in occasional use, is there anything that could get worse by leaving it?
Appreciate your reply sir 👍🏼
@@PJ-jg9bq yes you put undo stress on the pump as if its leaking overnight it means its also leaking as its running so the pump will constantly have to adjust the level. The question is, should it drop overnight yes or no? The answer is no. So it needs addressed 🙏
@@MasterTechLou 👍🏼perfect. Understood. I guess my next decision is whether to replace valve blocks or take on a re-sealing as you did in your video content. Is a reseal doable by a weekend warrior or no?
@@PJ-jg9bq I don’t have that answer as its too general a term “weekend warrior” 🤔
Probably took me 2 hours takin my time. I would say do your homework watching every video to see if it’s something youre comfortable with. I cant say what others are capable of, only the individual knows that. And the only way to learn is to fail every way possible but thats why I try and make these videos to help avoid failure
Hi Lou Have you made a viseo showing the steps you go through to fit the valve block kit Regards Chris (The Clever Coop Company)
Hello,
My name is Flavius and I am from Romania. I have a Mercedes SL 55 AMG R230 manufactured in 2003 and I have a problem with the ABC system that I will describe below, maybe you can help me with some advice. I start the car and I have no error on the ABC system, the car goes down and up from the button, after a few minutes of operation the first error appears with the message "drive carefully, in white". After a few more minutes the same message appears but in red and then I noticed that the oil level in the tank increases and it comes out, but even after I stop the engine it continues to flow. I also did a diagnosis, which says that the tandem pump is not making pressure.
Thank you in advance!
Great content. Thanks.
Very informative 👍
Thanks for the extremely informative video man! Question for you: I'm looking at picking up a 2005 s55 amg that is giving a white ABC visit workshop, the car goes up and down fine, doesn't appear to be sagging, and seems to be handling smooth. I did notice however some dried up liquid near the ABC reservoir. Any tips on what I should look at here? I don't mind to put the work in, but don't want to set myself up either.
Get a scanner and read code’s first. Also this fluid doesn’t dry. It is oil, it collects dirt and grime. With a car this old
Get ready to put in the work.
@@MasterTechLou what type of scanner would you recommend that wouldn't break the bank I have like a $60-$70 FOXWELL ODO11 scanner but I couldnt find anything.
also what could be the worst case scenario with the white "ABC visit workshop" alert?
@@Muscleman-b9o 2500$ pump. 1800$ shocks. 400$ lines. 20 year old abc systems are worst case scenarios 🤷🏼♂️
Anyscan a30m works great. But check all my videos I do lots of reviews
@@MasterTechLou thanks man!
Excellent Video. Thank you. A quick question. Wife just bought a 2003 SL500. I have fixed a number of things on it and am going to do an ABC flush, (no leaks and it appears to work fine). Would you recommend bleeding each strut first as it is not a through system and I am thinking it might get fluid out that might not otherwise be replaced. Thanks again for the Common Sense, clear and concise video.
Thank you and yeah that is not a bad idea.
@@MasterTechLouThat's why I do a rodeo every few months. To transfer fluid to and from places that it normally wouldn't in normal use.
I've got a 2005 cl500 which has a noisy ABC system. I have replaced the sphere behind the right front wheel (pulsation damper) with a new one and I've changed the pump twice. Currently running a remanufactured pump which should be perfect but with all 3 pumps it has been noisy. A whining noise that is worst between 1k - 2k rpm but is eclipsed by engine noise after that.
@@mawin5899 I would run the engine with no belt to be sure the noise is from the abc system or engine accessories. Based on your issue its copy paste symptoms of a bad pulsation dampener we had a bulletin for. But you can also have a line that is not routed properly so its rubbing the body. Or you may have another failed dampener somewhere in the system. Use a stethoscope to narrow the noise down.
@@MasterTechLou without a belt the noise goes away. The noise comes from the front of the car. So I always thought it was odd that the pulsation damper being behind the front wheel would cause noise up at the pump. Is that typically how the pulsation damper issue looks? I've only got my own car for experience of this problem so can't compare having only seen this noise once on one car.
@@mawin5899 noise is felt with your left foot on the floorboard when its the dampener.
Use a stethoscope and locate the noise with the engine running
Great video lou!! I have a question i really hope you get to see and answer for me. I have a 2014 S550 i replaced the 2 front struts ABC suspension about 7 months ago because they were wet and needed replacing, i kept hearing a loud knock every time i started the car and one day i came into my garage and there was a good amount of fluid on the floor and engine bay it burped out the reservoir overnight, i then replaced the 2 front struts after doing so the knock went away after starting the car, no leak no knock now 7 months later i turn the car on and i hear a mild knock i get home and in the morning i notice it burped again not a whole lot but it did it i also noticed it said ABC malfunction for a split second and it went away car drives normal now no changes it hasn't burped overnight and i haven't heard the knock when starting the car, here's the million dollar question donyou think it's the front driver side control valve that's acting up? Since the knock seems to be coming from the front left. It's driving me nuts how it just randomly happened.
Thanks for the nice comment. I am not sure on your issue. It is nothing that sounds familiar or common. Also the abc doesnt “burp”
If fluid is coming out then it is most likely overfilled or there is another issue .
@@MasterTechLou copy that, thank you
Hi, I saw your video. I have a 2005 SL500 and I’ve keep getting code (C1526 008 - Fault in hydraulic circuit at rear right suspension strut) whenever I hit large dips in the road at high speeds, the car gets spongy. when I stop and shut off the car and start it back up everything goes back to normal. I’ve replaced everything….ABC pump, all accumulators, rebuilt both valve blocks, flushed system, 3 times, and performed the RODEO and my pump is putting out 194 bar. The car drives fine but, I only get that malfunction warning when I hit hard dips. Why am I getting that malfunction when everything has been replaced?
Hydraulic circuit fault is thrown when the control senses that the strut is not responding the way it is trying to control it. If it is trying to extend the strut, but it is retracting instead for example. I suspect the right rear control valve. I would do manual actuations of the right rear strut and see if it reacts as it should and compare the raising and lowering speeds to the left rear. You could also do a rodeo and see if that corner is moving through the full range of travel, or if it ends up closer to fully raised or lowered. That can indicate a control valve that is internally bypassing.
The car raises and lowers with no issues and throws no other codes. I can hit a bump at high or low speeds and it’s fine but, if I hit large dips at certain speeds that causes the car to dip heavily then it will throw that code. So do you think changing the strut would help because I actually have two rebuilt rear struts that I haven’t installed yet.
Lou Thanks for this great video .I have a 2003 sl55 When I drive it and put it away for the night it sags. Then the next day when the fluid cools I restart it and it relevels it self and it won't sag for almost two weeks. Can this be a viscosity issue? I want to rebuild the valve blocks but I think if it isn't broke don't fix it, Your thoughts? Thanks Harry
Valve blocks ☺️
Brilliant otherwise & very informative 😂😂😂😂
Hi please me to I got a S500 is give me issues with the calibration I'll input the value for it then it will later tell me the inclination angle does not meet it like the calibration was not successful and the shockes and level sensor are okay and some other things pls I got anybody who could help with this issue
This is what they did to mine, what do I do to make the calibration mode close or complete?
You need a scanner to enter calibration mode and complete it
@@MasterTechLou Thank you very much, the buttons inside are not working, they are stuck in Sport… do you know if it is related to that? If I calibrate everything correctly, it will work normally again?
@@galodoidousarenato5504 I dont have that answer. Check for codes, there will be a code or many
@@MasterTechLou my friend from the channel, I want to ask you for help, my cls 550 is making a noise when I turn it at low speed or when parking, and now the steering has become harder, so I need to change the stabilizer bar link and the stabilizer bar?
@@galodoidousarenato5504 those have nothing to do with steering.
hey, good afternoon my brother like the video I have a 2005 Mercedes-Benz SL 500 that’s only going into One gear, but the ABC light is the only thing that’s coming on can you render me some assistance thanks
Read codes from the transmission control unit
Nice Video, what model of Autel do use? Thanks from Sweden!
Thank you 😊
MS906BT. I recommend it if you can find it at a good price point, but the battery failed too quickly in my opinion. Only had it 2 years and it dies very quickly….. very upsetting for an almost 2k tool…..
Now I ordered the same model!. it costs 1k now. thanks again Lou !@@MasterTechLou
What autel model you used?
@@CaribbeanManagers MS906bt
Thanks for your videos. If your a Mercedes dealership in Chicago do you know a guy that worked there. His name is Alex. He has a TikTok channel and a RUclips channel. I started following his videos because he works on Mercedes. Thanks.
Yes I know of him. And his channel.
How in gods name Could anybody be VULGAR TOWARDS YOU MY MAN, SHAME ON THEM,,😢
🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉😂😂
Why do lots of people call ABC "air suspension"?
Because they are misinformed
Hey there. I had listen to the part where the only thing that can change the ride hight is messing phisicaly with the ride high sensors on the upper control arms. Absolutly agree. I have done the seals replacemet on the front and rear valve block and changed the shocks. The thing is i had to replace the upper control arms due to the end that connects the break, the rubber is gone. On the "02 the upper control arm was a single piece, i had to replace with a later model of control arm that is near identical because the original part was not in production anymore. This new control arm had the holes to attach the sensors, but one of the holes was a little off, so i had to extend the hole In order to the sensor place fit there.
Didnt try it yet, but since phisicaly i had to move and change the sensor, i sense it will not be level. Probably have to go to the calibration mode as like you said its messy. Any suggestions? Thanks
Adjustable linkage would be my suggestion
LOU,Is there a way I can contact you and consult with you for Cash?
Thank You
Instagram DM
👏
These r230 are getting to be 20 years old, Don't let coilovers scare you, unfortunately can't work on my car. But I went to a suspension shop it cost me $675. I went with hiro coilovers $1000.
Now ride quality is the equivalent of sport now those of you who did not have these cars and you want to drive in Grandpa's mode sorry I wouldn't recommend . There is three modes, sport and active body control and of course Grandma's mode. Handling is better and I think you pick up speed little bit. You can spend thousands of dollars each time you bring it in the shop why don't you be done with it and get some coilovers,
You can avoid the red light once you ve by unplugging a fuse it's on RUclips oh 0 avoid strut masters because they're not adjustable
Good music brutha....GRRREEAT video....Many Thanks!
Greetings Lou...I have a question about my 2000 CL500 at the dealership right now with an ABC that lifts on the passenger side when the key is shut off.
Prior to this, I had a hose burst in the front valve block and had replaced it with one from a hydraulic shop, but on occasion afterwards would still get the red: CAR TOO LOW message, so I replaced the front accumulator after the reservoir overflowed when the car was shut off....When that was done is when my car would lift on the passenger side when shut off, so I had the rear accumulator replaced, but the problem persists.
l can drive the car, but at stop lights etc. when I take my foot off the brake it lifts slightly at the rear on the passenger side. Further to that, when I drive the car it would occasionally 'ping' then flash the red CAR TOO LOW message briefly.
As such, I intended to change the Return Accumulator on the Rear Valve Block and so I got an upgraded, but used, Valve Block unit on ebay. This is where I am now, with the car at the dealrship for an oil change and what I hoped would have been a solution to my problem, but they say they can't diagnose the car as it is not communicating with the CAN....smh
I'm supposed to go in and speak with the shop foreman, but as fate would have it I saw your *excellent video* this morning and thought I'd ask your opinion on if I should have them install the valve block and return line accumulator to see if that solves the problem.
P.S. I also get some sagging after a few days on the front left side....BUT...I am uncertain as to which valve block causes my car to lift on the passenger sides when it's shut off -- Should I replace *both* valve blocks?
Many Thanks
Sorry for your troubles, too much happening here for me to give you a simple answer.
@@MasterTechLou No worries, I understand....I'll let you know what the dealer says later....Cheers
@@MrIFARI most answers are in my video.
Valve blocks are common to leak and backflow fluid but if the valve on the pump sticks it will allow fluid to backflow to the reservoir
@@MasterTechLou Thanks...The dealer tech says the pump is good...just got to see which valve block needs changing and go that route....I may need to change both, but will keep you posted. Cheers.
"Gotta pay the cost to be the boss" - James Brown
@@MasterTechLou The dealer says the car CAN Bus won't communicate with their STAR diagnostics and say they want 2-5 hours to remove the seats and carpets to track down why before replacing parts...smh...Thoughts?
You open the bleeders on each strut with the engine off. Once the strut lowers, then you close the bleeder. Since you are pushing the fluid out of the strut when it is not running, if there's any air in the strut, it will come out of the bleeder. Once you start it and raise the car, you are pushing new fluid without air. That is how you bleed the air out of a new strut. If by chance you have air before the bleeders, then you open the bleeders while it's running. But usually doing a rodeo will get air out of the system unless the air is in the strut. I do a rodeo on my car every few months to get new fluid to flow through the parts that do not get new fluid in them from normal conditions. So it is actually recommended to do a rodeo ever so often.