I have watched a few Videos on the installation and you are first to show how to install the shims. Great job only thing not discussed disconnecting the negative battery cable
Good video, and a good starter as well. The same starter is going in my 68. A safety suggestion, at 4:54 "safely up on jack stands" but without wheel chocks in the rear. Anyone working under a vehicle should always block the wheels. Even on level ground and the garage door shut, it's not worth rolling the dice.
You can't live on the edge and be safe, gotta pick one. Just thinks of the views I'd get if the car fell on me. Oh wait, the wife's coming, need to post this comment real fast.
Good job, I was having issues with my starter, it was basically was my set screws came loose. I read torque them again with red Loctite and I also did my measurements, good info. Thanks I’m good.🔧🔧😃
Awesome video Andy! I bought the 9503 starter and installed it on my 66 mustang. Although the description says 5 speed manual, the measurements also worked for my factory 3 speed manual transmission. That was great as I won’t need to change out the starter when I eventually upgrade to a 5 speed transmission. Keep up the great work! Shawn
you weren't lying about that top bolt, it is a pain. you're lucky that your exhaust doesn't block access to it like mine do, it is next o impossible to reach it. its in, but it is not tight. I don't know how to get to it. on the plus side it starts the car up immediately!
@@bofa83 i use a longer bolt in the top hole and i put a lock washer and nut on the back side of the bell housing. I have long tubes on that mustang. This works well if your threads are not to good in that hole.
I put this on my '66 mustang. It's a 347 stroker and love it. I think original starters were 3/4 hp, these are 1.9 hp I believe. I had to add the spacer as well as "clock" it to clear the drag link.
I took the starter out of my car tonight (T5 swap underway) and right before I disconnected the wire to the starter I thought, hmmm, maybe I should disconnect the battery. Also the starter fell on my face. Now I know it was 17lbs that hit me. 😜
cheaper example of the small high torque starters are for Old Broncos... hint bronco parts are cheaper than Mustang parts.. even though they are the same part.. I would say where to get them if allowed... only 70 bucks too...
You installed a jumper wire on the starter from the IGN to BAT. Does the big wire from the starter go to the same terminal on the fender solenoid that the positive battery cable is hooked to?
The big wire from the starter goes to the starter terminal on the starter solenoid, which is not the same terminal that the battery is connected to. If your starter solenoid is installed in the factory location, the battery connects to the larger terminal on the side of the solenoid that is facing the front of the car. The starter then connects to the opposite large terminal, the one on the "back side" of the solenoid, the terminal that is pointing towards the rear of the car. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Awesome then I have it installed correctly. I have a 68 Mustang with 351W and I am installing the same mini starter, the starter solenoid is located in the factory location and I have all the connections installed just as you described. Thanks!
It’s about two years ago you installed the starter. Did you experienced any problems, is it still working fine. I read different experiences from good to only working for some days.
Unfortunately I don't have much of an answer as I have shorty headers on this motor. I believe they make insulated covers for starters, maybe check out Heat Shield Products and see if they have something for you. :)
This starter will work, but it might be overkill for your application. I say that because this starter is designed for higher compression motors, like 10:1 or higher. It will definitely work on your motor, but you could get one of PowerMasters other starters that are a little cheaper if you don't need this much power. But in the end you're maybe saving $30, so maybe just go for it! :)
@@AndyKruseChannel forgot to mention the 302 engine was Made into a 347 stroker don't know if that will matter as far as starters. Also I am not sure if the flywheel is a 28 or 50oz. Is that what the spacer on the powermaster starter is used for?
@@tblume84 347 Stroker does not make a difference on the fitment of the Starter, but depending on your compression ratio of the 347 (they're often 9.5:1 or higher), this would be a great upgrade to the stock unit. The stock starters are not wanting to try and start higher compression motors, so this might be something you'll want to look at. The '86 302 blocks had a 50oz imbalance to them (requiring the correct harmonic balancer and flywheel to go with it), but with respect to the starter, it doesn't make a difference. The shims that come with the starter are there to set the correct depth of the starter gear when it engages with the flywheel as not every manufacturer of flywheel makes them the same. :)
Sorry boss, going to need more info. Which part is arcing? The battery? The starter solenoid? The terminal on the starter? Do you hook the ground last or is it connected while you're attaching the power leads? Is it the same starter I have in this video?
@@AndyKruseChannel yes same starter. I can see it arcing when hooking up the positive terminal, negative already attached. And I can hear the starter engaging
@@silentnoise4137 Assuming the ignition is Off, with the starter engaging when reconnecting the battery, the solenoid is bad. With the ignition Off, there should not be any electricity going to the starter until you turn the key to start the car. You can test this by disconnecting the cable that goes from the solenoid to the starter and connecting a voltmeter to that same terminal on the solenoid. If it shows 12V when you connect the battery cable from the solenoid to the battery (assuming the ignition is in the off position), then you need a new starter solenoid. Should be about $25-$30 at the parts store. :)
@Andy Kruse huge help thank you. I was assuming the wire was bad somewhere but I couldn't find anything. Just recently bought a 67 mustang and it's been fun trying to figure this thing out
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Great video. You speak clearly, don't ramble on about useless stuff and the video quality is great.
Thank you.
I appreciate that!
I have watched a few Videos on the installation and you are first to show how to install the shims. Great job only thing not discussed disconnecting the negative battery cable
Thanks 👍
love your videos, the right level of detail instructions for a DIYer, I am rebuilding a 65 Convertible and you're my go to guy
Awesome, thanks for the feedback!
Great, this is the one i've been searching
Awesome!
Good video, and a good starter as well. The same starter is going in my 68. A safety suggestion, at 4:54 "safely up on jack stands" but without wheel chocks in the rear. Anyone working under a vehicle should always block the wheels. Even on level ground and the garage door shut, it's not worth rolling the dice.
You can't live on the edge and be safe, gotta pick one. Just thinks of the views I'd get if the car fell on me. Oh wait, the wife's coming, need to post this comment real fast.
Thanks alot brother. Your video was helpful in measuring the starter to flywheel. I just did my inline six with 3 bolts. Thanks again for teaching 🙏🏽
Awesome, it’s always great to here that people are able to pull some value from my videos. 😁
Putting the same starter in my '75 Grabber w/ 302. Well explained from start to finish. Thanks!!
Glad to help! :)
Great video, Andy. I could not figure out why the starter wasn't turning over and the jumper did the trick. Appreciate you!
Glad it helped!
Nice project. Looking forward to seeing what you are doing that needs a more powerful starter!
You and me both! :)
I used a stock starter off a later mustang (like a 85), it's smaller and also high torque.
Gives more room from headers so the starter doesn't cook.
This is good info, not everyone wants to shell out the extra bucks for this starter. :)
Good job, I was having issues with my starter, it was basically was my set screws came loose. I read torque them again with red Loctite and I also did my measurements, good info. Thanks I’m good.🔧🔧😃
Awesome, I'm glad it worked out for you. :)
I like your videos and that is a beautiful car. 👍🏻
Thank you! 👍
Awesome video Andy! I bought the 9503 starter and installed it on my 66 mustang. Although the description says 5 speed manual, the measurements also worked for my factory 3 speed manual transmission. That was great as I won’t need to change out the starter when I eventually upgrade to a 5 speed transmission. Keep up the great work! Shawn
Yeah, it's a great starter. :)
This video was very helpful. Thank you
Awesome!! 😁
Thanks so much for your video. Very informative and clearly explained 👏 👍 I just ordered my 9503
Nice! 😁
Great video! I love the organization of your shop!
Thank you!
I like the "down the road" teasers:) Good job Andy!
Teasers for the win. 😁
Thanks so much! Another awesome video.
Glad you enjoyed it!
you weren't lying about that top bolt, it is a pain. you're lucky that your exhaust doesn't block access to it like mine do, it is next o impossible to reach it. its in, but it is not tight. I don't know how to get to it. on the plus side it starts the car up immediately!
Worst case you loosen up the header to get a wrench in the to tighten that top starter bolt. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel I may have to, its just irritating since I just had the header off to put a new gasket on. such is life guess.
@@bofa83 i use a longer bolt in the top hole and i put a lock washer and nut on the back side of the bell housing. I have long tubes on that mustang. This works well if your threads are not to good in that hole.
Hopefully the plans include Electric Power Steering install video!!! :-)
Shall I set up a Go-Fund-Me? :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Set up one for me and I will do the video for you. 🙂
Great explanation. Appreciate!
Glad it was helpful!
I put this on my '66 mustang. It's a 347 stroker and love it. I think original starters were 3/4 hp, these are 1.9 hp I believe. I had to add the spacer as well as "clock" it to clear the drag link.
Did you add the starter purely for the 347, or did you already have it on there before the motor upgrade?
@@AndyKruseChannel I did the same as you, overkill. When I built my motor I spared no expense!
I took the starter out of my car tonight (T5 swap underway) and right before I disconnected the wire to the starter I thought, hmmm, maybe I should disconnect the battery. Also the starter fell on my face. Now I know it was 17lbs that hit me. 😜
That T5 is going to be an awesome upgrade.
Very nice
Thanks!
cheaper example of the small high torque starters are for Old Broncos... hint bronco parts are cheaper than Mustang parts.. even though they are the same part.. I would say where to get them if allowed... only 70 bucks too...
I'm sure there are lots of great options out there, especially items that are very close to the expensive counterparts. :)
hey @ robvious obviously I'd like to know can u share please
You installed a jumper wire on the starter from the IGN to BAT. Does the big wire from the starter go to the same terminal on the fender solenoid that the positive battery cable is hooked to?
The big wire from the starter goes to the starter terminal on the starter solenoid, which is not the same terminal that the battery is connected to. If your starter solenoid is installed in the factory location, the battery connects to the larger terminal on the side of the solenoid that is facing the front of the car. The starter then connects to the opposite large terminal, the one on the "back side" of the solenoid, the terminal that is pointing towards the rear of the car. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Awesome then I have it installed correctly. I have a 68 Mustang with 351W and I am installing the same mini starter, the starter solenoid is located in the factory location and I have all the connections installed just as you described. Thanks!
It’s about two years ago you installed the starter. Did you experienced any problems, is it still working fine. I read different experiences from good to only working for some days.
This starter is fantastic! Zero issues. If I had to replace this starter, or if I was on the fence about what to buy, I would still buy this unit. :)
@@AndyKruseChannelGood to hear. 👍
How do these starters do when taking heat from long tube headers??? Im having heat soak issues from my long tubes and my high torque mini sve starter
Unfortunately I don't have much of an answer as I have shorty headers on this motor. I believe they make insulated covers for starters, maybe check out Heat Shield Products and see if they have something for you. :)
Check out the video I recently recorded on my '66 mustang. Its under "Hotz Automotive". I would add the link if I knew how, lol.
I'll check it out.
So you didn't have to TORQUE the starter to the the engine using a TORQUE wrench?
What?
@@AndyKruseChannel So you just tighten the 2 mounting bolts and dont torque them with a torque wrench?
@@dickeymoore3662 It's not the end of the world if someone doesn't use a tq wrench on these bolts. They only need to be tightened to 30 ftlbs.
that car starts fast and clean. is it always like that?
Thanks! Yes, but it wasn't like that when I bought it, I've been improving everything I can for last 9 months. :)
I have a 86 302 small block in my 65 mustang, I plan on swapping my 3 speep manual for a tremec t5 is this the starter I would use?
This starter will work, but it might be overkill for your application. I say that because this starter is designed for higher compression motors, like 10:1 or higher. It will definitely work on your motor, but you could get one of PowerMasters other starters that are a little cheaper if you don't need this much power. But in the end you're maybe saving $30, so maybe just go for it! :)
@@AndyKruseChannel forgot to mention the 302 engine was Made into a 347 stroker don't know if that will matter as far as starters. Also I am not sure if the flywheel is a 28 or 50oz. Is that what the spacer on the powermaster starter is used for?
@@tblume84 347 Stroker does not make a difference on the fitment of the Starter, but depending on your compression ratio of the 347 (they're often 9.5:1 or higher), this would be a great upgrade to the stock unit. The stock starters are not wanting to try and start higher compression motors, so this might be something you'll want to look at.
The '86 302 blocks had a 50oz imbalance to them (requiring the correct harmonic balancer and flywheel to go with it), but with respect to the starter, it doesn't make a difference. The shims that come with the starter are there to set the correct depth of the starter gear when it engages with the flywheel as not every manufacturer of flywheel makes them the same. :)
I put the starter back on and tried to hook the battery back up and it keeps arcing and I don't know what I did wrong
Sorry boss, going to need more info. Which part is arcing? The battery? The starter solenoid? The terminal on the starter? Do you hook the ground last or is it connected while you're attaching the power leads? Is it the same starter I have in this video?
@@AndyKruseChannel yes same starter. I can see it arcing when hooking up the positive terminal, negative already attached. And I can hear the starter engaging
@@silentnoise4137 Assuming the ignition is Off, with the starter engaging when reconnecting the battery, the solenoid is bad. With the ignition Off, there should not be any electricity going to the starter until you turn the key to start the car. You can test this by disconnecting the cable that goes from the solenoid to the starter and connecting a voltmeter to that same terminal on the solenoid. If it shows 12V when you connect the battery cable from the solenoid to the battery (assuming the ignition is in the off position), then you need a new starter solenoid. Should be about $25-$30 at the parts store. :)
@Andy Kruse huge help thank you. I was assuming the wire was bad somewhere but I couldn't find anything. Just recently bought a 67 mustang and it's been fun trying to figure this thing out
jegs $230.00
Yeah, but you'd still be buying it from Jegs.....