When applying a curves layer do not change the opacity level, but do alter the blend mode to luminosity, thus preserving the saturation of the base layer. Good on you for being brave enough to show such a Ps editing tip on RUclips, most other "pros" wont even dare give such tips.👏👏👏
Thanks so much for the comment, Hugh. I'm glad you enjoyed the video 🙂 Changing the layer blending mode to Luminosity has to be done intentionally, and it's not always the best option when tweaking the tonal range of an image. It's definitely a useful tip, but it needs to be contextualized.
Can I say what a great video this is. The number of videos I have watched over the years which says you need to know this, this is what professionals know etc, and then you watch it and it's the same old thing you've seen before. Such a good explanation, and so much so I've posted this on my photography clubs Facebook page. I don't have Photoshop but I do like to share information that others will find useful. Keep up the great work.
Hi Mark, thank you so much for the super lovely comment and for sharing the video with other fellow photographers! I'm really glad you enjoyed it! 😊 Ciao
I've also found the Auto Adjust Levels feature in Capture One with the Levels Tool Channel Mode preferences set to Red, Green, and Blue Channels to work very well for one-click color correction in many cases. Definitely not as many options, though.
Yeah, Capture One is definitely more versatile than Lightroom in this regard. I wish the Channel Mode selection were in a more convenient place. Maybe adding an extra checkbox inside the Auto Adj Levels' menu for quicker mode switching. Thanks for the comment, Jason.
Nice video. With the new Adjustment Presets and the ability to create your own, you can do the same steps you show then save them as an Adjustment Preset and with one click, apply the same Curves and Levels tweak you show here... pretty cool stuff.
Didn’t know about this feature. I’ll try it out. One question, since I’m usually editing RAW, will bringing it into photoshop mean I lose RAW editing capabilities? I use Sony and Canon cameras with ARW and CR2 files.
Thanks for the comment, Jorge! As for your question, when you move a file from Lightroom to Photoshop, it usually turns into a regular picture file like PSD or TIFF. That means you can't tweak the original raw data anymore. But if you open the file as a smart object in Photoshop, it keeps the raw data intact. This lets you still play around with the original edits you made in Lightroom using Adobe Camera Raw (ACR) inside Photoshop. So, going with the smart object option keeps your options open for editing the raw data. I hope this helps.
@@AndreaLivieriPhoto that’s what I figured. I love ACR, but not Lightroom. It feels somewhat limiting. I usually edit using ACR from Bridge. Seems so much better to me than Lr and LrC. I’ll editing as a smart object in Ps. Thanks for sharing!
Great tips as always! I wanted to ask you Andrea, is there any reason in 2024 for choosing Capture One over Lightroom/Photoshop when it comes to reading the Fujifilm raw files?
I'm glad you enjoyed it! Thanks. I believe you can't go wrong with either software. In my opinion, Capture One still holds an edge when it comes to Fuji's raw conversion. However, Lightroom is catching up in terms of color handling and the cloud technology over different devices is pretty solid.
I think you can just use RUclips's search bar, and you'll find plenty of videos on that. In my experience, the default Lightroom settings are fine 99% of the time.
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I’ve known about this for a few years and it’s a great tip. But I’ve never heard anyone else explain it properly until now.
Thanks so much for the comment, John. Much appreciated 🙂
Didn’t know about this feature, really helpful Andrea! Thank you
Thanks so much, Jan! Glad you found it helpful. Ciao
This was very useful and a time saver!
I didn’t know about this feature, Thank you
Glad it was helpful, and thanks so much for the comment!
When applying a curves layer do not change the opacity level, but do alter the blend mode to luminosity, thus preserving the saturation of the base layer. Good on you for being brave enough to show such a Ps editing tip on RUclips, most other "pros" wont even dare give such tips.👏👏👏
Thanks so much for the comment, Hugh. I'm glad you enjoyed the video 🙂 Changing the layer blending mode to Luminosity has to be done intentionally, and it's not always the best option when tweaking the tonal range of an image. It's definitely a useful tip, but it needs to be contextualized.
That’s super useful!!! Thanks 👍🏻
Thanks so much! Glad you enjoyed it 🙂
this is an excellent and very helpfull Video! Grazie mille Andrea!!
Hi Sandro, that's great. Thanks so much for the comment and glad you found the video useful!
i am so mind blown thank you!! 🤯
Thanks so much. Appreciated 😄
Can I say what a great video this is. The number of videos I have watched over the years which says you need to know this, this is what professionals know etc, and then you watch it and it's the same old thing you've seen before. Such a good explanation, and so much so I've posted this on my photography clubs Facebook page. I don't have Photoshop but I do like to share information that others will find useful. Keep up the great work.
Hi Mark, thank you so much for the super lovely comment and for sharing the video with other fellow photographers! I'm really glad you enjoyed it! 😊 Ciao
Learned a lot in watching this one, thanks for sharing!
Hey Guy, glad you found the video useful. Thanks so much 😃
Great tip and great examples. Thank you.
Thanks for the comment and glad it was helpful! 🙂
I've also found the Auto Adjust Levels feature in Capture One with the Levels Tool Channel Mode preferences set to Red, Green, and Blue Channels to work very well for one-click color correction in many cases. Definitely not as many options, though.
Yeah, Capture One is definitely more versatile than Lightroom in this regard. I wish the Channel Mode selection were in a more convenient place. Maybe adding an extra checkbox inside the Auto Adj Levels' menu for quicker mode switching. Thanks for the comment, Jason.
I can't quite tell what the Dehaze Tool on C1 does, but in combination with Auto Adjust Levels I usually like the results.
Great tutorial! Thanks
Hey Bruno, thanks so much for the comment and glad you enjoyed the video. Azores Rulez! 🤘🏻😄 Ciao
Amazing...thanks for sharing!
Thank you very much 🙂 Glad you enjoyed it!
An excellent video thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks so much 🙂
Great tip and demo, thank you so much! 🙏
Glad it was helpful. Thanks so much!
Thank you!
You're very welcome. Thank you!
Nice video. With the new Adjustment Presets and the ability to create your own, you can do the same steps you show then save them as an Adjustment Preset and with one click, apply the same Curves and Levels tweak you show here... pretty cool stuff.
Glad you enjoyed the video. Yeah, that's a great tip, Cory! Thanks for sharing it 🙂
A Quick way to get starting adjustments in landscape photos
That's awesome. Thank you.
Thanks so much for the comment, and really glad you enjoyed the video! 🙂
Great, Thank You.
Thank you!
Top 😁👍🏻
Thanks so much, Boromir! 😄
Very cool.
Glad you enjoyed it. Thank you!
Didn’t know about this feature. I’ll try it out.
One question, since I’m usually editing RAW, will bringing it into photoshop mean I lose RAW editing capabilities? I use Sony and Canon cameras with ARW and CR2 files.
Thanks for the comment, Jorge! As for your question, when you move a file from Lightroom to Photoshop, it usually turns into a regular picture file like PSD or TIFF. That means you can't tweak the original raw data anymore. But if you open the file as a smart object in Photoshop, it keeps the raw data intact. This lets you still play around with the original edits you made in Lightroom using Adobe Camera Raw (ACR) inside Photoshop. So, going with the smart object option keeps your options open for editing the raw data. I hope this helps.
@@AndreaLivieriPhoto that’s what I figured. I love ACR, but not Lightroom. It feels somewhat limiting. I usually edit using ACR from Bridge. Seems so much better to me than Lr and LrC. I’ll editing as a smart object in Ps. Thanks for sharing!
Great tips as always!
I wanted to ask you Andrea, is there any reason in 2024 for choosing Capture One over Lightroom/Photoshop when it comes to reading the Fujifilm raw files?
I'm glad you enjoyed it! Thanks. I believe you can't go wrong with either software. In my opinion, Capture One still holds an edge when it comes to Fuji's raw conversion. However, Lightroom is catching up in terms of color handling and the cloud technology over different devices is pretty solid.
Thank you and Thank you Alister!
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks 🙂
Can I find a video somewhere on how to sharpen a photo from a Fujifilm camera in Lightroom to avoid worms?
I think you can just use RUclips's search bar, and you'll find plenty of videos on that. In my experience, the default Lightroom settings are fine 99% of the time.
@@AndreaLivieriPhoto Everything has been searched 😅 and it does not meet expectations 😊
Why just dont use dehase in lightroom for this photo?
A perfect Color Correction with 1-Click in Photoshop is NOT possible.
Great tip, thx!
Glad it was helpful. Thanks you!