I just finished doing a head gasket on my daughters 07 camry. With these videos it was fairly easy. The only real pain in the butt was the belt tensioner removal and the power steering pump removal. Everything else went smooth. I'm a pretty decent diy type guy, but I thought a head gasket was beyond my means. Turns out it wasn't. I am a machinist so I also did the machining on the head myself as well. I appreciate your video series on this. The only thing I would tell someone starting this job with these videos would be is to write down the steps as you watch each video. It makes it a little easier when putting it all back together. The car has been running for almost a week now with no issues or leaks anywhere. I'm guessing I saved around $2000 or so. I had about $150 in parts, bolts, sealants, etc. So in short, thank you for the time it took to make these videos, I for one appreciate it very much!
I’m glad you found it helpful! I would say the the same thing getting the power steering pump off is the biggest pain. It’s cool to hear that you could say some money by doing it yourself.
@@laod7192 It takes me about 4 to 6 hours to do them from start to finish but I have done a lot of them at this point. Some go really smooth and others have your number!
Thank you for sharing.. I need to do the head gasket on my 2007 Camry Hybrid. I have been waiting for the weather to cool off before I start. Anymore advice? How about on the power steering pump and belt tensioner? Do I need to disconnect the fuel lines at all? (Just wondering if I need to release the pressure first). Or anything else I may not be thinking of
It's still apart. I dropped off the head at the machine shop today. It was warped approximately .006. Might have an issue with the head bolt threads, several of the bolts were very lose. Toyota changed the pistons in 2016 under warranty, maybe they re-used the old bolts. I might be purchasing the time sert kit, I would hate to have the threads pull out after I assemble it. @@csautomotive12
@@philjerome9795 You don’t need to spend a lot of money on that kit. You can go to your local parts store and just have them give you a tap and coil that will fit the bolts. That’s what I do.
Thanks for the comment! It’s pretty hard to do the job and recorded it all at once. So I appreciate the support. I have had some people say I need to do things differently. So I’m glad you found it helpful. Thanks!
For anyone having an issue removing the fuel line at 14:45 with the crappy plastic tools, you can also simply remove the fuel pressure damper mount right next to it with 2x 10mm bolts. Or Alternatively just leave the fuel rail attached and after unbolting and removing the spacers, just move the rail off to the right of the engine bay.
@csautomotive12 I'm about to tackle this job at the curb for lack of a better place to work on the car. I've got a replacement (used) head on the way. I don't have jackstands or ramps, though... No way to really get under the car. My question (at the moment) is, can I leave the intake attached to the head until I get the head out, then swap it from the original head to the replacement? Or does the intake need to come off before the head can be removed?
@@arcanewyrm6295 The intake will need to be separated from the head first. You can leave the intake attached on the bottom, but you will need to remove the 5 nuts/bolts on the top side of the intake at 22:20. After removing those, you can remove the remaining studs with a Torqx socket. The head can then slide free without affecting the intake. This avoids the need to remove the two lower intake bolts.
@@csautomotive12okay I think I know what caused it to break. I forgot I torqued them wrong to like 20ft pounds then went back with digital one to snap it. I’ve never done more than an oil change before so I’m learning from experience 😂
@@csautomotive12 What size impact were you using? 3/8 or 1/2" I trying to make my list of tools, sockets, etc for my Christmas Shopping in August gets started 😁
Here's a thought about avoiding removing the timing cover for this job. There is only one inaccessible bolt under the timing cover that MUST be removed located at the top end of the exhaust-side chain guide. Set crankshaft to TDC. Remove valve cover and camshafts. After you have the camshafts out, you can support chain with a wire so it doesn't skip a cog on the crankshaft and then I was thinking you could get a 10mm deep-offset box end wrench onto the bolt hiding behind the chain guide or possibly make a special tool by welding a 10mm wrench to a short 12-pt 10mm socket to get behind the chain guide. What do you think about that? Is there enough clearance inside the timing cover? Also need clearance inside the cover for the bolt itself to be completely unthreaded. If not enough clearance, unscrew the bolt as much as possible and then cut off the head with a hacksaw - keeping rags in the timing cavity to catch debris. Spin-out the rest of bolt with fingers. Cut replacement bolt short enough for reassembly with timing cover on and use locktight since the bolt is a little "out of spec." When removing head you need to “bend” the chain guide out of the way of a little "lip" at the bottom of the head - hopefully the part can tolerate a little flex - if you break it you’re back to removing the timing cover. At reassembly, run a borescope down the timing cavity to check the alignment on the crankshaft cog and check the alignment at the intake/exhaust gears are aligned with the colored links.
I like how you think. I just think your going to spend more time trying to do this then it would take to just take the cover off. The one thing that I don’t like is cutting the bolt for two reasons. How are you going to get a new one in there without dropping it. Second you might get metal in the motor. It’s so hard to cut metal and catch all the pieces. If you try it I would love to hear if it worked.
I have another comment about an idea I mentioned below to avoiding removing the timing cover. I don't think it will work. I opened the valve cover and looked down into the cavity at the bolt holding the exhaust-side chain guide to the head. If it is even possible to loosen this bolt with only the valve cover off, I think the bolt itself is going to run into the timing cover before too many turns. Crap! That was the only bolt under the timing cover that needs to be removed for the head to come off. I would think Toyota could have designed the chain guide so the top hold-down point was near the top of the block instead of the head.
No overheat yet. It starts and runs fine. It throws the code P0117. I added about 3 qt of coolant. I saw the coolant behind the engine. Is there other coolant line go in the intake manifold besides two lines go in the throttle body?
@@dannytha4105 I don’t think so. You’re going to want to get a pressure tester and see where it’s coming from. It sounds like you might have a head problem. On the early models the head bolts will pull threads and cause the head to lift.
Shouldn’t you disconnect the battery and depressurize the fuel system first? Also why not remove the air box and the torque strut/ dog one mount just to gain more room in the engine compartment before anything else?
You can disconnect the battery if that makes you feel better. I’m not taking anything of that I would need to do that. You can remove those things if you would like. I just don’t like removing things that doing need to be removed. That just takes more time. Time is money! Hope that helps. Thanks for watching. If you have any other questions let me know. Thanks
I just finished doing a head gasket on my daughters 07 camry. With these videos it was fairly easy. The only real pain in the butt was the belt tensioner removal and the power steering pump removal. Everything else went smooth. I'm a pretty decent diy type guy, but I thought a head gasket was beyond my means. Turns out it wasn't. I am a machinist so I also did the machining on the head myself as well. I appreciate your video series on this. The only thing I would tell someone starting this job with these videos would be is to write down the steps as you watch each video. It makes it a little easier when putting it all back together. The car has been running for almost a week now with no issues or leaks anywhere. I'm guessing I saved around $2000 or so. I had about $150 in parts, bolts, sealants, etc. So in short, thank you for the time it took to make these videos, I for one appreciate it very much!
I’m glad you found it helpful! I would say the the same thing getting the power steering pump off is the biggest pain. It’s cool to hear that you could say some money by doing it yourself.
How long did it take you to do this job?
@@laod7192 It takes me about 4 to 6 hours to do them from start to finish but I have done a lot of them at this point. Some go really smooth and others have your number!
Thank you for sharing.. I need to do the head gasket on my 2007 Camry Hybrid. I have been waiting for the weather to cool off before I start. Anymore advice? How about on the power steering pump and belt tensioner? Do I need to disconnect the fuel lines at all? (Just wondering if I need to release the pressure first). Or anything else I may not be thinking of
Thanks. I took the head off of a 2007 Camry. Watching your videos made the job go a lot easier.
I’m glad it was helpful. Does it run good?
It's still apart. I dropped off the head at the machine shop today. It was warped approximately .006. Might have an issue with the head bolt threads, several of the bolts were very lose. Toyota changed the pistons in 2016 under warranty, maybe they re-used the old bolts. I might be purchasing the time sert kit, I would hate to have the threads pull out after I assemble it. @@csautomotive12
@@philjerome9795 You don’t need to spend a lot of money on that kit. You can go to your local parts store and just have them give you a tap and coil that will fit the bolts. That’s what I do.
Extremely thorough video series. Subscribed.
Thanks! I appreciate the support!
Finally, a literal step by step on this repair. Thank you! Very helpful!
I’m glad you found it helpful! Your welcome!
I just gotta say thank you. This is awesome for step by step
I’m glad you found it helpful. Thanks.
This is super helpful! Im taking notes and everything!
I’m glad you found it helpful. Thanks for watching.
Just watched the whole series👍
Sweet! Hope it was helpful!
i like how you explain what youre doing and what to look for, but dang bro u good?
Thanks for the comment! It’s pretty hard to do the job and recorded it all at once. So I appreciate the support. I have had some people say I need to do things differently. So I’m glad you found it helpful. Thanks!
Great videos, thank you for doing them. What size are the head bolts?
The one I did was a M12 triple spline. I have heard of others saying there’s where different.
For anyone having an issue removing the fuel line at 14:45 with the crappy plastic tools, you can also simply remove the fuel pressure damper mount right next to it with 2x 10mm bolts. Or Alternatively just leave the fuel rail attached and after unbolting and removing the spacers, just move the rail off to the right of the engine bay.
That’s a great point. Thanks for sharing!
@csautomotive12 I'm about to tackle this job at the curb for lack of a better place to work on the car. I've got a replacement (used) head on the way. I don't have jackstands or ramps, though... No way to really get under the car. My question (at the moment) is, can I leave the intake attached to the head until I get the head out, then swap it from the original head to the replacement? Or does the intake need to come off before the head can be removed?
@@arcanewyrm6295 The intake will need to be separated from the head first. You can leave the intake attached on the bottom, but you will need to remove the 5 nuts/bolts on the top side of the intake at 22:20. After removing those, you can remove the remaining studs with a Torqx socket. The head can then slide free without affecting the intake. This avoids the need to remove the two lower intake bolts.
@godeyrayfan6965 I will give that a shot when I get into it. Thank you for the insight.
@@godeyrayfan6965 This is a great point! Just make sure you can drop the head straight down so you don’t ruined the new head gasket.
Hey bro thank u so much for these video, but also r we supposed to time the engine to tdc before removing chain
Thanks glad it helped! Once the head is off it’s really easy to set the timing.
Can the 2AZFE cylinder head be resurfaced? Or how to prep the bottom of the cylinder head for reinstallation?
Yeah just take it to your local machine shop!
Me and my son are doing this right now
Good for you guys! Let me know if you have any questions.
Is there a specific reason you disconnected the coil packs from cylinders 3 and 4, but left 1 and 2 connected?
Yeah you can just swing them to the side!
Bolt broke off whenever I was trying to torque the E3 Cam Bearing Cap down. Will a replacement bolt from ace hardware be fine?
You need to make sure it’s the same kind of bolt that is hardened. So that it doesn’t break on you.
@@csautomotive12okay I think I know what caused it to break. I forgot I torqued them wrong to like 20ft pounds then went back with digital one to snap it.
I’ve never done more than an oil change before so I’m learning from experience 😂
@@RichardGary-m6t Things happen! That’s how you learn! I have broke plenty of things in my day.
nice like to see more off your toyta fiksing iff you have i toota 2005 movi i see forover to see that thanks fore shering
Thanks for watching!
18:35 how did you get the impact in that small space??
There’s more room under there than you would think! If you have a smaller impact and a good wobbly socket. You can get in there!
@@csautomotive12 What size impact were you using? 3/8 or 1/2" I trying to make my list of tools, sockets, etc for my Christmas Shopping in August gets started 😁
Here's a thought about avoiding removing the timing cover for this job. There is only one inaccessible bolt under the timing cover that MUST be removed located at the top end of the exhaust-side chain guide. Set crankshaft to TDC. Remove valve cover and camshafts. After you have the camshafts out, you can support chain with a wire so it doesn't skip a cog on the crankshaft and then I was thinking you could get a 10mm deep-offset box end wrench onto the bolt hiding behind the chain guide or possibly make a special tool by welding a 10mm wrench to a short 12-pt 10mm socket to get behind the chain guide. What do you think about that? Is there enough clearance inside the timing cover? Also need clearance inside the cover for the bolt itself to be completely unthreaded. If not enough clearance, unscrew the bolt as much as possible and then cut off the head with a hacksaw - keeping rags in the timing cavity to catch debris. Spin-out the rest of bolt with fingers. Cut replacement bolt short enough for reassembly with timing cover on and use locktight since the bolt is a little "out of spec." When removing head you need to “bend” the chain guide out of the way of a little "lip" at the bottom of the head - hopefully the part can tolerate a little flex - if you break it you’re back to removing the timing cover. At reassembly, run a borescope down the timing cavity to check the alignment on the crankshaft cog and check the alignment at the intake/exhaust gears are aligned with the colored links.
I like how you think. I just think your going to spend more time trying to do this then it would take to just take the cover off. The one thing that I don’t like is cutting the bolt for two reasons. How are you going to get a new one in there without dropping it. Second you might get metal in the motor. It’s so hard to cut metal and catch all the pieces. If you try it I would love to hear if it worked.
doing mine today found two head bolts loose turns out bad threds in block was able to repair with helicoil 11m x1.5
That’s good information. Thanks for sharing.
Where can i get the same kit you got?
You should be able to get it at any parts store.
I have another comment about an idea I mentioned below to avoiding removing the timing cover. I don't think it will work. I opened the valve cover and looked down into the cavity at the bolt holding the exhaust-side chain guide to the head. If it is even possible to loosen this bolt with only the valve cover off, I think the bolt itself is going to run into the timing cover before too many turns. Crap! That was the only bolt under the timing cover that needs to be removed for the head to come off. I would think Toyota could have designed the chain guide so the top hold-down point was near the top of the block instead of the head.
Yeah you would think they would have! But they never want to make it easy! At the end of the day you have to take the cover off!!
My cousin’s car antifreeze leaks behind the engine. The sponge below intake manifold is soaking wet. Is it a sign need a new head gasket?
Really anything is possible! It could be leaking from somewhere else or could be the head gasket. Is he having other problem?
No overheat yet. It starts and runs fine. It throws the code P0117. I added about 3 qt of coolant. I saw the coolant behind the engine. Is there other coolant line go in the intake manifold besides two lines go in the throttle body?
@@dannytha4105 I don’t think so. You’re going to want to get a pressure tester and see where it’s coming from. It sounds like you might have a head problem. On the early models the head bolts will pull threads and cause the head to lift.
Will do thank you very much
And I’ve got another question what brand of head gasket you use?
Mines steering pump hard to get back in is there a certain way ?
That’s the worst part of the whole job in my mind. If you can pry bar and move the slider on the bracket. That should open it up.
Ok thank you
Shouldn’t you disconnect the battery and depressurize the fuel system first? Also why not remove the air box and the torque strut/ dog one mount just to gain more room in the engine compartment before anything else?
You can disconnect the battery if that makes you feel better. I’m not taking anything of that I would need to do that. You can remove those things if you would like. I just don’t like removing things that doing need to be removed. That just takes more time. Time is money! Hope that helps. Thanks for watching. If you have any other questions let me know. Thanks
Why did you have to replace the gasket? Was there a misfire? Compression problem? Leaking?
It was over heated really bad to the point it wouldn’t start.
My manifold was covered with some sort of playin the back what should I do
Sorry what was it covered in?
What's your price range on one of this jobs brother?
Just book time and parts. The job calls for 12.1 hours.
@@csautomotive12 thank Bud!!
@@csautomotive12 these cars worth the work mine 530000 frist problem other than maintance
@@MacCustoms Yeah I agree. I’m a toyota guy for sure!
Reminder, disconnect the battery ground terminal before you dig in very far.
Good point!
Bro I cannot get the 14mm bolt on the bottom of the exhaust undone to save my life. Almost 0 room to work with down there what do you suppose?
Do you have a torch?
yeah, its not as large as the big map gas tanks tho@@csautomotive12
If you can get it red hot I’m sure it will come off.
Did you get the bolt off?