Ham Radio Battery Pack DIY LiFePO4 | Headway 38120
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- DIY Ham Radio Battery Pack usinf Headway 38120 LiFePO4 cells.
Hello Operators.
For the ham radio operator in the field, portable battery power needs to be light enough, small enough, modular, have enough capacity, and above all it should be possible to replenish it off-grid, and in the field. So today, we are buiding our own diy LiFePO4 battery pack for a single 100 watt QRO radio, or two 100 watt portable ham radios for several hours. There is no other ham radio battery box which comes close in performance.
For the ham radio operator in the field, portable battery power needs to be light enough, small enough, modular, have enough capacity, and above all it should be possible to charge with solar power, off grid, and in the field. In North America Bioenno battery power seems to be popular, but there is no way to repair it, if it goes wrong in the field. For the high speed, low drag Amateur Radio Operatorr in the field, we need something a bit more special, something which can be customized to fit our own operating requirements.
Thankfully, we can find the answer for this from the lithium battery family.
Most diy builders use 18650 batteries for diy builds. For this build we are going to step it up in performance and ease of build by using the Headway 38120 family of bLiFePO4 calles. These cells are safer to use, and easier to put together in a 12 volt battery pack.
here is the parts list: oh8stn.org/blog...
You can find the original episode notes Here: oh8stn.org/blo...
Background info:
Recently my channels supporters helped crowd fund a new Yaesu FT-891 for the solar powered field station. To activate that rig in the field, we needed to build a special power plant, one which would allow us to make use of the rig's full potential if needed. Enter the 50A current draw, 128ah Headway 38120 based, 10ah LiFePO4 Day Pack for our Yaesu FT-891 Field Radio.
in this video, we build a 50A current draw capable, 128wh LiFePO4 battery pack for the solar powered field station. We augment the pack with our PowerF8lm FM16-7200 Solar Panel, for extended communications
video url: • Ham Radio Battery Pack...
Mentioned in the video
- PowerFilm FM16-7200
- Bestech 50A BMS • Mail bag: DIY LiFePO4 ...
- DIY QRP LiFePO4 pack for ham radio
- Yaesu FT-891
- Solar Powered Field Station
- Powerpole distribution boards www.k9jeb.com
Headway 10A 38120 cells
Max. continuous discharging current 10C(100A)
Recommended Constant Discharge 1C(10A)-5C(50A)
Bestech 50A 4S BMS for LiFe04
Max. continuous discharging current 50A: goo.gl/JYHJLD
Other interesting videos and playlists
- DIY LiFePO4 10ah battery pack for Ham Radio:
• Ham Radio Battery Pack...
- PowerFilm FM16-7200:
• PowerFilm 120w FM16-72...
- Ham Radio Off Grid with OH8STN
• Off Grid Ham Radio wit...
- Ham Radio with a Raspberry Pi:
• Ham Radio with a Raspb...
- Better Power Distribution for Portable Ops
oh8stn.org/blo...
73
Julian #OH8STN
Video URL: • PowerFilm Solar | Port...
Support the channel.
Purchase this panel from PowerFilms Amazon shop here: amzn.to/2CdVLNP
m
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I believe I watched this when it first came out. It was a great tutorial then and still is now. Great stuff!
Well its official. I built my own battery pack. Thanks Julian for the video and your motivation to build our own packs. The solar panels will follow in the future.
Congratulations Kevin. It's an empowering feeling, designing and building something to your own specs :-) welcome to the honebrew community. Please pass the knowledge and experience on. 👍👍👍
73
Julian oh8stn
P.S have you thought about putting everything on a PDF? That why we can tip and download the PDF with all the information we need to build it.
Thank for the great videos.
Those crimpers make all the difference in the world. I suggest getting ratcheting crimpers for your ring terminals as well. They provide an even crimp, and are much easier on your hands :)
Thanks Julian for your work in the area of off-grid ham radio, and specifically with LiFePO4 batteries. A few months ago I picked up a Yaesu FT-857 and built a manpack for it. This battery kit will be my next addition.
-- Mike WB8ERJ
Thank you very much for a slow, step by step assembly tutorial. I am learning so I need to take time. I am building things as I watch so the pacing and level of detail you note, including the slow shrink wrap reason and the pack end cell coloring is helpful for me
Not only do I learn something coming here , gain valuable perspectives in your process . Thank You
I finally couldn't resist getting around to constructing a pack (though the last time I camped was around 1956 and I was not all that fond of it). I've been accumulating the parts to make a pack for quite a while. I did not have time before now. But currently I do! My pack is comprised of 12 Headway 38120 (3// x 4S) with a high quality LI Tech BMS. The whole pack is protected by heat shrink. For buss-bars I used 1/8" thick copper plate which I cut and drilled myself. For connections to the pack I used powerpole connectors. The pack with BMS is heat shrinked in order to protect from shorts and so on. I have the pack connected to a 10.5 Amp Genasun charge controller. I bench tested the unit using a power supply and all seems to operate just fine. I then connected it to my Yaesu FT-891 and ran some CW ops, incrementally increasing the power up to 100 Watts while observing the current drain on the pack and the voltage also. Everything works as it should. Tomorrow I will replace the power supply with my solar panel. I am now going to be looking for a plastic box to protect the pack. Harbor Freight usually has a good selection of them. Once I get the box, I will install a "DC Multifunction Battery Monitor Meter LCD Display Digital Current Voltage D4Q1" on it too (which I can turn on and off at will). If I were able to post a photo, I would display the pack for all to see. But RUclips does not permit it. Nonetheless, I am very grateful to Julian for being the inspiration behind my pack. I can say without any reservations that were it not for him, I would have never built one. Thank you.
I am not far behind you. I am using the 32650 cells that Jehu Garcia posted. Your videos are an awesome mix of ham radio and relevant technologies that we are all researching too! Keep it up!
KC3EGP
Thank you. Jehu is one of my favorite RUclipsrs. There's also nothing better than solving practical problems we all have in the field 👍👍👍
73
Julian oh8stn
Love your (over)build philosophy. 😄
I guess it's fortunate that the BMS doesn't run hot, because all those heat shrink layers would sure block any convective cooling.
My luck with Anderson powerpoles has not been as fortunate as yours. They connect and (especially) *DISconnect* a little too easily. On many non-ham projects, I use XT60s instead.
73 de AF6AS
Yeah thanks for the comment. I removed the heat shrink a long time ago, but only because people were bugging me about a time a channel :-) in Finland it doesn't get that hot and I'm never discharging at such a high rate that it would need to breathe. But it's good to show how to do it the right way, since others are following when I do. To be honest with you I'm not a big fan of the power pole connectors. I prefer xt60 and xt90. I only use the power poles on the channel to promote interoperability using them. I like your style man, it's refreshing to have no BS people operators coming to visit. 👍👍👍
Thanks for stopping by.
Outstanding video! This is the power I have been looking for, to run either my FT-891 or IC-7200, yet weighs less than my Goal Zero! I suck at soldering, but might have to give this a try! Keep up the great work!
Thank you for the kindness.
This battery pack will power both of those radios at 100 Watts full duty-cycle. it is the nuclear option ;) I've got another battery build incoming. Similar specs, 30A draw continuous, uses 18650 LiFePO4, and requires no soldering of cells. The BMS always need soldering, but the other end can be crimped (and soldered) ring connectors.
There is always the LiFePO4 batteries from A123, Buddipole, Dakota Lithium.
73
Julian oh8stn
I looked at a 50ah battery from Bioenno. it costs $469. Not paying that! I will follow your guidelines and most likely save some cash!
Julian, thank you for your videos. I have been looking for a solution for my portable work and this video was exactly what I was looking for. I am a new Ham but love the DIY route.
73
David (KJ7ZRT)
Thank you David. That's an old video so you may need to replace the be a mess with something else. Those sales are absolutely magnificent though, and still available. I've got a couple of new portable power builds incoming.
73
Julian oh8stn
For Anderson Power Poles, I just use the crimper on a linesman's tool. I bought it for less than $20US.
Looks like a perfectly fine soldering iron to me - but then I do lots of small electronic assembly in my other hobbies (1/4W resistors are big to me). It got the job done, that's what matters.
Thanks for this video. I'd not considered building a solar-powered LiFePo4 battery pack before, but you make it look pretty easy - or at least you make the process easy to understand, which is a skill all of its own. I might have a go at this build over the winter months.
Thanks Dan. Yeah it's still working fine since this video :-) Thanks for the kindness and the comment, it's very much appreciated
@@OH8STN I’m having an issue with this build! I added connectors to my 4 balanced leads but the rings are too small to fit around the screw on the bus bar. I’m already using ring connectors that are almost too large for this gauge of wire. Any advice on this? My bms is a different make than yours and the balanced leads are probably 18 or 20 gauge.
@patrickrowan2184 Only change out those ring connectors. Perhaps you can use ferrules on the wires ends. This will make it easier to terminate with a bigger ring connector.
Hey thanks@@OH8STN I was able to complete the build. I wish those balanced leads had a larger gauge because the battery screws demand such large ring connectors. But it's my first build and I'm an amateur, so I shouldn't expect every aspect to look factory. I ordered my shrink wrap and will be able to wrap the package up nicely soon. Thanks for your guidance. Appears to work perfectly thus far.
Julian....awesome video... thank you for sharing your wisdom! I am personally working on becoming mobile and self sustained with my current setup.
No click bait thumb clip if you throwing the battery pack into the fire. Disappointed! 😂. Thanks for posting the build process.
Awesome build Julian ! I may have to put one of those together soon. You are right - DIY is he way to go over any of the commercial solutions as it is so easy to repair and troubleshoot on the fly. There is no voltage drop on your watch :) Thanks for sharing !
I think we are about the same age, but do you remember those expeditions to the North Pole, and South Pole, Everest, ..? All those Adventures built their equipment themselves. Much of the gear we have today, evolved from gear developed to solve problems on expedition. There was no Radio Shack in deepest darkest Africa, walking across the Sahara, or skiing across Antarctica. So they had the kit they built, and a few spare parts based on most likely things which could go wrong. That's where this whole building passion comes from.
If you put one of these together please do a video, and I'll add it to my portable power for ham radio series like we did for your smaller pack from last year. I Always Love sharing your videos on the channel.
Thanks for stopping by Brett, it's always good to hear from you.
73
Julian oh8stn
Yes I do remember that - and self support is a reward in of itself. I will let you know when I get to building one. Thanks again !
Hi Julian, greeting from UK.
Great video.Very thorough and informative.
My only suggestion to improve your redundancy rationale would be to protect your cables with PET Expandable Braided Sleeving - I normally use it on my RC vehicles as an extra protection and it improves cable handling specially in extreme low temperatures. I think the use of that small Zip Tie close to the plugs is a gd idea for extra grip. Hope that helps.
Again thanks for sharing.
You are such an inspiration!! Now there's a way to play HF radio off grid without those heavy SLA batteries. This will benefit those who are recovering from physical ailments like me. TY DE KF7DMY.
Doc XOXO thank you. It's been tough convincing the community but it's possible to go completely QRO on HF, with a battery pack light enough for a day pack. Comments like these provide motivation for the next video on that topic. Thanks for the kindness 👍👍👍
73
Julian oh8stn
I always crimp AND solder. Another good build Julian.
Don / W5DON
Portable Off-Grid Power for Amateur Field Communications: the entire series up-to-date.
ruclips.net/p/PLKMrdrsNkFA43q0POuXM-5-49yOd3t4CP
Just found your video, great project - noticed some of the parts are very hard to find. Would you build the same today, same selections? This is the perfect size...
I'm thinking of adapting this idea to make something modular so that, perhaps, I could start with a 4S1P pack and adding an additional 4 cells per month, as funds allow. Perhaps two packs, one for emergency power at home, and another for portable use, that could charge together at home.
Thanks, that was a great video, I have a Yaesu ft-818nd, and it is a battery pig for sure. Just finished a 18650 battery pack placed in a plastic ammo can with an Ice hole box kit, it is working much better for me than the AA battery set up. I really appreciate your videos.
Thank you so much Julian! making this pack to power a VHF/UHF solar powered man packable station with the yaesu ft-8900r
No ptonlrm.
I also power my Keneood TMD700 with it 👍👍👍
73
Julian oh8stn
Cool! Because of you, I want to make an VHF/UHF QRO man portable station for now and when I upgrade to a General Class License, Yaesu FT-891 with a Chameleon MPAS antenna like you for HF stations making a HF/VHF/UHF man portable solar powered off-grid communication station using data modes! Can not wait!! Thank you for the ultimate inspiration!!!
BTW My callsign is KD2MNF and my name is Issa. Nice to meet you Julian.
73
Hi Julian, just the configuration I was thinking of! Ideal for QRO portable operating. Got 12 10ah headways on order, and all the other components I’ll need. Normally I love qrp but there are times when 50w or so is just the ticket. My config is going to be: 10ah headway power pack, kx3 radio, small Tokyo hi power 50w hf linear, 9 meter squid pole and my home brew Par Endfedz style 40, 20 and 10 m end fed halfwave antenna. My trick with the antenna, is to start at the top of the squid pole and wind the 10m of antenna wire around the pole in a helical fashion. I operate mostly from the beach here in Australia. I don’t contemplate a solar charger. I’ll use a regular balanced charger for lifipo4 cells. Your work is an inspiration Julian! Maybe I should start survival tech sud, and look at survival gear of interest to folks here in Australia:)
Peter?
Well everyone loves these learning projects, and sharing them is very rewarding. The 10 amp hour Headway pack is brilliant. Now you understand why I call it the QRO Day Pack. I also agree about qrp. I've been a qrp operator on HF since the beginning. Sometimes eg, when I want to interact or engage with subscribers, channels, or more critical Communications on air, the additional power from the ft-891 is an asset. The funny thing is I feel guilty when I use more than 10 watts (nuts).
Enjoy the day and thanks for stopping in.
73
Julian oh8stn
Thanks for this video. I built a 30Ah version this evening. I have a 15Ah build coming up. Mine technically isn't finished. I need to shrink wrap everything and tidy the wires up. But it works
Outstanding Michael. It's always awesome to hear other people doing their own builds as well. Perhaps you will publish pictures and parts list on your blogger website?
I have a blogging site but I haven't posted to it in years. It's more related to photography and general rambling than tech. I don't think I would have even known about these batteries much less built such a powerful battery pack without your help. Kudos to you Julian
Michael Lloyd I just noticed you posted your build in the portable digital and qrp group. Well done! For everyone else you can see Michael's build by joining our group on Facebook facebook.com/groups/PortableDigitalQRP/
I really appreciate your videos and help in the ham field, you've given me some great ideas. And with your low pitched way of talking, your like the Bob Ross of ham radio....LOL!
I seriously needed a comment like this today 👍👍👍
The videos are great! I am getting the components together to build my battery pack now. This channel is a great resource for emergency preparedness. Thank you for taking the time and effort to share your experiences with us. Stay safe.
Thank you Shawn. 👍👍👍
So you get a 40Ah source with about 1.5kg max on weight for ~300€. Pretty impressive, considering that you pay for a LiFePo 8.5Ah almost 120€. Very nice project, thanks for sharing! (had to correct, forgot the charging unit with 100$)
Please Keep Up The Great Work Most Appreciated.
Thanks. I'm going to another portable power video coming up in a couple of weeks. For now we're going to get back to some of the reviews and Technical videos.
Love the videos. Your voice is actually quite calming. So calming, that if I watch any of your build videos I end up falling asleep and have to watch again. Lol
So my question is, can I charge this battery with a power supply and what's the max amps to charge at? I have a RC car battery charger and an Alinco 30 amp power supply that has the ports on the front with 5amp max.
I don't have a solar cell and would be using this for POTA activations.
Yes I agree, great build.
Julian, awesome work once again. Another way to tell the positive from the negative end of a cell besides the white mark on the end is that looking at the body of the cell, the positive end will have an indented ring near the end of the cell. 73, mike N9YB
Thanks Mike, that's an awesome observation.
I put so much emphasis on checking the the cell ends, because I'm simply afraid someone will become careless. Thanks for adding this topic in the comments. 👍
73
Julian oh8stn
I really admire the dedication and inspiration of putting these videos together!
Cheers to you!
Episode notes oh8stn.org/blog/2018/03/04/diy-qro-10ah-lifepo4-pack-yaesu-ft-891-857/
73
Julian oh8stn
Great video. Very informative!!! And to the point. Nice Radio voice👍
Great video. Very informative!!! And to the point. Nice Radio voice👍
Thanks Julian 73 KM6OND. Someday I will build one thanks to you.
Julian..WELL Done..another Very Educational Video..
Thanks 73's
Mike WL7NP
Great video. Very informative!!! And to the point. Nice Radio voice👍
6 out of 90 people could not build the pack for themselves ; )
Great video
😃😃😃
73
Julian oh8stn
A very clear-to-follow video as always. It does however raise the question of insulation of warmth. Will putting the heatshrink over all of the components prevent heat dispercement from the bms? I can understand that this wouldn't be a problem in a colder climate, but overhere the hottest day ever measured was about 45 days or so ago. And I'm really thinking about making the same kind of battery. 73's, NL134.
You're absolutely right. Up here in the North heat really isn't a big deal. And since I'm not drawing the packs maximum current potential, the BMS never gets hot. If I were still living in Southern California or that deserts of Arizona, I would definitely avoid covering the BMS 👍
My Headway batteries (15Ah x12) should be getting here on Friday. Also going through the process of rating 160 x 18650 batteries to build another larger system for powering other items in the field. I cannot afford the 120 watt version of the power films so I'm using some inexpensive at current, but will be purchasing one as soon as I have the money saved up. (Or if I decide to sell a couple of guitars)
I built this battery, and love it! Thanks for the video. What is the lowest (in Volts) that you've used or discharged the battery before recharging? Have you run it down below 12V?
I have, but I like to stay between 14.2-12.2v, to extend the cycle life. My worst case is 12v, which is still safe.
@@OH8STN Thanks so much! Love your channel. I'm also using the FT891, but I haven't gotten around to running digital yet. Thats next on the list. I have a 20W PowerFilm foldable panel which is going to have to make do for awhile. I usually only do a day trip, so most of my recharging will be done at home on grid power. Keep up on the fun videos, 73!
While there's nothing wrong with using heat shrink to insulate the cells from the BMS, the industry typically uses adhesive barely paper. Barley paper is kind of similar to construction paper with some thickness and is pretty much impossible to tear through unless you purposely take a knife to it. Another way is to use epoxy resin board which does a good job of separating the heat generated by the balance resistors on your BMS from the cells (if you have a BMS that balances the cells which you should or a separate balance board which are now very popular and only $15 for a 4S 5A version). I would hesitate to cover the BMS in shrink wrap just because of the heat, I typically just apply a layer of Kapton tape which is high temperature tape that does not leave any residue..yeah its not cheap but its good stuff and one $10 roll will last you a while if you don't use it like a madman...or just buy a pack of 4 different sized rolls for $15 and never have to buy any again.
Overall, for a build that you did 5 years ago you were way ahead of the curve. I don't think these cells were very well known except in the car audio world and the battery nerd world. The only better option out there if you are in a cold environment is LTO but the price is the turnoff at about 3X the cost of LFP. The specs for LTO are pretty impressive though, 10C charge rates and quite often discharge rates in excess of 10C or 20C.
Hello Julian, here in the UK eclipsebikes.com can supply the headway cells in 8,10,12, and 15AH capacity and associated gear to make the battery you describe, I went for the 15AH capacity. On the web there's a lot of debate about whether to use a BMS or not and I don't want to start the argument on here but I've chosen not to incorporate one in my setup instead I'm using a dc to dc external balanced rc battery charger from ISDT and I use a mimi rc volt meter on the balance leads when I'm using the battery. I've also Bottom Balanced the pack (4 cells) before use and I'll do it again as and when necessary in the future, there's plenty of RUclips clips about preparing LiFePO4 cells in this way on the web. I've been using an FT-891 for a while now mainly on cw and data...I think it's a keeper. Thanks for the great videos and I look forward to seeing what you get up to in the field with 891. 73 G0SBN (Glen)
Hi Glen. Your message was in the spam folder. I'm glad I check it from time to time, just to save these kinds of excellent comments. Definitely no debate on using a BMS or not it's a personal choice, and either way is fine. I used to be a mess because I want to have the low voltage disconnect, and charge balancing when using the PowerFilm panels.
Thanks for the sharing the information. I might actually reach out to them for my next battery build video.
73
Julian oh8stn
Great video and great build!
Since it has been a while since you put this together, do you think the double heat shrink over the BMS heat sink might not be the best? Looks like you operate in a lot of cold weather.
I plan to build something similar in an ammo can which will bascially be 5 or 6 of your units in parallel for greater power.
I'll use this for camping needs as well as Ham.
Thanks for the video!
Hi Mark. Actually I've changed the configuration since this video. I should probably do a new video tutorial. I still use heat shrink, but they cut out the section which exposes the heat sink. Even before that though, didn't have any problems with overheating since current draw from our radios, is only a fraction of the BMS capabilities.
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Julian oh8stn
W1RNY @OH8STN An absolutely fantastic job on all this. I was just about to pick up a 40 or 50 amp hour lithium iron phosphate battery to run a portable satellite station I am building with an IC 9700, Portable Rotation EL AZ Rotor, Dual Portable Arrows, and laptop running SatPC32. I was shocked to learn that you could do so much with only 10 amp hours! I think I am going to build one of these myself and follow your general plan. Thanks again. 73
FYI, when soldering HOLD the tip to the work and let the solder flow then move away. Unless you had too much coffee You don’t tap tap tap tap the joint with the tip which will likely create an ugly or cold joint.
I have four used red 8ah headways I broke off from my 44 pack project. I am trying to figure out why all the new charger balancers are so tiny compared to your bestech. The components couldn’t be that much better on the smaller ones and your model has the huge solder runs for big power. Thanks for the awesome video.
Most of those small BMS boards are low capacity. I mean they can't handle the current draw. My application is a 100 watt ham radio or two, plus lights for the camp. Anything can be written on those small boards from China. The bestech really is capable of 50A current draw.
OH8STN I really appreciate your video and help. I finally ordered the newest bestech from arizona and learning to volt balance match my older cells and really match them after a bunch of grouping tests. I have dropped a few used cells so just some advice. Great for testing but just buy new like your video. If you do not install new cells it can be a pain. 73 everyone
So if I want to beef up must put more cells in parallel to reach 50 A. I have many concerns with that set-up. Anderson Poles were not designed to have soldering. Soldering creates spikes and may cause short. At 50 Amps, wires should be of almost the same gage everywhere. Wire length is also a concern. One should have almost the same length for all of them not considering where they are on the set-up. One more issue is the use of wrapping up with shrinking plastic the kit. It is a very good procedure but will blow-up with time. The cause: Condensation between the layers due to thermo-mechanical heat. In a very cold environment, it will survive the beating but in a humid climate, it must be validated. VA2SOB - 73 Claude who will try to build that powerpack... Hopefully not destroying my house...
Another great build Julian! I'm still looking for a right sized Stirling cycle engine to do generation from fire and snow...until then I think the batteries will be easier ;)
Element I know you jest but actually there's a bill that wanted to do for a few years. It's a backpackable micro diesel generator. Imagine a regulated DC output driven by a small alternator or Dynamo from a motorcycle. It's connected to a charge controller which constantly tops up a small lithium iron phosphate battery. For the winter of course!
73
Julian oh8stn
Well I would be serious if I could find an engine the right size. They all seem to be toys/models or quite large. Seems like a good theory though. If you have a fire going, and unlimited cold available, you have everything you need to drive the Stirling cycle.
On another note, have you checked the temps on the heat sink on the BMS? Just curious since you put it in shrink wrap if it was still dissipating heat well.
Great question. Heat is not really a problem we have to contend with in Finland. Moreover, since I over specified to be a mess and only running at a fraction of its capacity heat dissipation isn't really an issue.
Hello Matt: If you find a solution to the Stirling engine problem, I'd be most interested. Many thanks.
Robert.
8P6RC
Julian, your comment at 4:06 is so true and related to so many other things in life. Try, give it a go you’ll get better every time. It’s as much about making the effort to try as achieving the result itself.
Very professional looking results Julian! Thank you for these videos!
-Rob
Thanks for watching them!
Hopefully someone can find Value in them.
73
Julian oh8stn
I know I do!
Well done.
"Bad things happen when you short the Cells", makes me think of another youtuber: ElectroBoom
Thanks for the very clear informative video. I have been doing some research on this battery chemistry and I think I will use these as well. I do have a question, do these batteries need to be balanced before the battery is built. I have seen some people either bottom balance the pack or balance them at the top end. What is your low voltage cutoff level ? I will keep watching your videos since I have learned a lot from you. Thanks.
Question on those balanced cell leads. On the BMS there's the JST wired for four pins. There's four wires that we put ring terminals on. But during the final assembly, you say there are five leads and the video shows five leads. Where did that fifth lead come from?
Julian, Congratulations on the 10K milestone. Hope many others will find your channel like I did. JJK N6NRO Lompoc California
Wire connectors: Ring, Molex, Powerpole,... I always crimp AND solder. So don't feel like it's a bad thing.
Soldering a crimped connection WILL have solder wicked up inside the wire which will risk the ability of the wire to flex near the connections. Soldering a mechanical connection offers no benefit and adding solder can actually cause MORE power loss across a termination.
If you havent by now, get yourself a ratcheting crimper. The Klein are really nice
Thanks, I invested in one. Never goin back :-)
OH8STN Ham Radio ...nice. Worth the few bucks...same as the power pole tool
Did you parallel top or bottom balance your cells before building them into your battery? That is a important step when starting with new cells.
Do you think you should slot the heat shrink where the BMS heatsink is located? I don't think you should cover them up.
You're absolutely right. 👍👍👍
I'm using a 55 Ah SLAB and just came across your channel. This sure looks like a nice upgrade. Will be building one soon! Thanks and +1 sub from me.
What can I use to wall charge this unit? Thanks again
Julian, your work is great and inspiring. I rearely disagree with you, but on the cost/capacity comparison of LiFePO4 batteries with lead acid batteries, I have a different view. My remote shack (fixed site) runs at the moment on a single 70Ah lead acid battery. I agree it only has a real maximum capacity of 35Ah, and that for future use, I will have to add at least a couple more batteries. These lead acid ones cost roughly £1 per Ah stated capacity, so about £70 for a leisure battery of 70Ah. The closest LiFePO4 battery, at 100Ah, costs a staggering £859 (allbatteries.co.uk). That's nearly nine times the price per stated Ah, or 4.5 times per Ah when we allow for the 'deception' you correctly identify. Apart from the price, the ubiquitous availability of lead acid batteries is one major factor in choosing to use them, despite their weaknesses. I can pop down to the local garage and buy a leisure battery. I will have to get a (heavy) LiFePO4 battery delivered, adding yet more to the cost and time delay to those 'new ideas' we get.
Okay let's talk about it. You said $1 / 1 amp hour, but it's actually $2 per amp hour since you only get half of the stated capacity. Since you also need to double them to get that 70 amp hours that also doubles the price. The lead acid batteries also have a limited service life with the minimum of about three hundred Cycles in a maximum of about 500 Cycles. The 500 Cycles can be extended, but only by reducing how much we discharge them. So again, we would need to increase the amount of batteries in parallel to extend the service life. This also adds to the cost of the system. But let's keep it fair and focus on the 70 amp hours. So that's two of the lead acid batteries you mentioned. I would agree with you that the price of the shelf and out of the door, is cheaper for those two lead acid batteries. But once you factor in the service life in terms of Cycles, you'll find that they lithium iron phosphate cells win this race. Because we have a service life of two thousand Cycles minimum. We can also extend that service Life by reducing the amount of discharge like lead acid batteries. That production is 5 or 10% it doesn't take much. So considering the lithium iron phosphate cells have four times the service life I've let acid batteries, in the long run it's pretty clear which one is cheaper. Now I also have a lead acid pack powering my shack. It's about 65 amp hours or something like that. I've got that connected to a MorningStar controller and two 40 watt panels on the tower. To be honest, there's absolutely zero chance I would replace the battery in that system with another lead acid battery. Have a look at the current solar generator project I posted a few weeks ago. I'll have a similar system to replace that lead acid battery in the shack.
The lead acid batteries are fine if you double them up for the desired capacity, and if you are mounting them in a fixed location. The service life is still an issue, but if you have a limited budget to start with, it's still a good solution.
Great video. Very informative!!! Abc to the point. Nice Radio voice👍
Really like all your videos, And I'm currently building this battery Pack for myself. One question I have is on the 2 layers of heat shrinking you have over the BMS. On the Bestech 50A BMS, there are cooling fins for the components, and by covering them with heat shrink you are blocking in that heat. I would think this could cause a failure if you are really drawing some power for the radios and other equipment. Have you had any issues with the heat build up?
Thanks - N0WTR
After the video I cut out the heat shrink over the fins. It was winter here when I built the pack so overheating wasn't a problem 👍
Thanks for the kindness, and the question it's very much appreciated.
73
Julian oh8stn
This is just what I have been looking for! Thank you for saving me the time to figure it out.
N2ELI
Hi Elijah
Glad it was useful.
sulla on Suomalainen sukunimi 😉
73
Julian oh8stn
Just saw you reply friend.. Sorry for slow response. I don't check this email often.
All my parts for the build should be here in a few days. Might have a few Q's for you.
Also looking to get in to js8 call. I will send you a msg on the Zed.
73's N2ELI
Puhu pian ystäväsi kanssa
There is also a ring crimp on the positive end of the battery cell.
Julian excellent video as usual. I am wondering if you have any problems with noise from that mppt controller as I tried one on my van and the ,2 meter fm went nuts . I am setting up a rover for 1296, 1.25 ,2 , and the 70cm band both FM and SSB I have a lifepo4 4s5p 50ah pack that I'm building right now for my ares group as an emergency backup power supply. I want the most out of my 4, 50 watt solar panels and was hoping to get a mppt but so far there way to noisy. I am also wanting to charge from the van or the grid . So as you can see I want all I can get from this battery pack.
Thanks Debbie. I have never gotten noise into VHF, UHF, SHF from an Genasun mppt charge controller. Which brand type did you try? I've got the Kenwood TMD700 connected to all my home Gensun controllers, with only a very small noise on HF when is approaching max input current.
Don't know if you are still following the comments but I have a question.
First let me say this video inspired me to build my own for my portable station I want ready for next field day.
My question is, what charger would work for this if I wanted to charge it at home (on the houses ac) instead of a solar charger? Would any LiFePO4 charger work?
Sure, any 4s LiFePO4 charger will work. I like to keep the charge current below 2A.
Awesome, thank you for the reply.
Hi Julian, I followed these build instructions, including having the BMS build by BesTech that you specified in the build instructions. I don't have the solar panel yet, can i just plug the power poles into my power supply to charge, or is there a special charger I should use to charge and use the battery for POTA activations until i get the solar charging components.
Current limited bench power supply 14.4-14.6 volts CC/CV onto the +/- charge/discharge leads of bms 👍
Jukian, my components are arriving to build this battery. I noticed on the BMS that the black metal on top of the board is a heat sink to cool the transistors, etc. Wrapping the BMS in a couple generations of heat shrink cuts off any airflow, and will eventually cause a failure. Just an FYI...
Good luck on your build. Work on a clean clutter-free surface. About the heat sink. It never gets that warm here, but I have used an exacto knife to cut the shrink sleeve from the heat sink. Remember we're not even driving that BMS at half of its capacity. for people who don't live near the Arctic Circle, keeping the heatsink clear is really good advice.
FANTASTIC
great job
With the cells connected in series surely this is still only a 10aH pack. You need 5 batteries in parallel to get the 10aH from each cell to add up to 50AH.
The batteries are 10 amp hours. 4S makes 10ah, that's right. The current draw is where your confusion is. 50A current draw, not 50ah. 👍
Bestech 50A BMS guess this is old where do you folks get this bms? Looks like a great project for my go bag... just starting with an e com group...
Great info. Well versed. I didnt see a dollar amount or est cost? Thanks again. I am considering buying 12/15 amp hr bienno battery but might consider this one if its cheaper. 73
Cost isn't the only aspect the consider. Check to maximum current output of the bioenno pack vs this diy pack and/or Dakota Lithium.
Just a heads up, don't solder your crimps. It's bad practice and will leave you with a weaker joint in general. A good crimper is all you need.
If you were building this unit again, would you include the Thorn-wave battery monitor?
Definitely. As I said in the video I'm adding The Thorn wave to all of my battery builds. It's a keeper 👍
Hi bro not sure if to use Anderson connectors on my build being in the UK I don't know if the import tax will be extreme. Enjoying your video as usual bro speak soon
Actually if I wasn't doing this for amateur radio continuity, I would probably have used xt60 or xt90 connectors. It's a much more robust connector than the Anderson power pole.
@@OH8STN :-)great I will go down that road then....73
Thank you for this video. I recently got a Powerfilm ft15-600 10 Watt .6ah and morning star Sun Guard 4.5A 12 v controller. I am using it to power HT (Yaesu vx8GR) and 817 QRP with lead acid cells. I am wanting to move off of lead-acid and am wondering if this LIfepo4 build can be charged with my existing power film and controller (albeit slow). I am new to this so am unsure how to run the numbers. Thanks, and 73, N0DAV
Julian, thank you so much for posting these videos. I'm just getting started with portable ops and I find your philosophy of "just do it" to be very inspiring to say the least! I'm looking to build this portable power system now and use a conventional charger and add the solar panel latter. Can you suggest the correct charger to use with build?
Thanks .... I'm hooked!
Absolutely wonderful to read your comment. Hey if you want to balance charge without the charge controller and solar panel, I'm using a Turnigy accucel 6. You'll need to order and install the balance leads oh, but that's relatively simple.
Might BMS is definitely balance charging my cells. That balance charging doesn't start until you reach about 13.9 to 14 volts. Still, the cells rarely go out of balance
I may build this one first like you suggested in later videos, this way I won't have to wait as long and spend less money to test out building methods. Do you still recommend shrink wrapping the BMS and other things or something else? Also, do you suggest the Bluetooth monitor (forgot what it's called), I like that feature on your newest model.
I think this is a great starter build. I don't use the heat shrink anymore, instead I use kapton tape without covering the heatsink. Maybe I should do an update video on this pack..
The Bluetooth option is really awesome. I really like having the ability to know what's happening with the battery all the time. Thanks for the questions and for watching my videos. It's very much appreciated. :-)
Also, I assume could add a USB port to this to give it some added functionality?
Yeah I think I really need to show you guys what I've done with this since this build video. I have the USB ports and to Anderson ports just like the bigger build I recently published.
What do you think of the TalentCell LF12A1 12 v 12Ah/153.6Wh LiFePO4 battery? It is available from Amazon for $83.69 US. It has a built in BMS. I have been planning on building a 10 Ah battery but for the cost this looks like an attractive option.
Thank you for the awesome video.
And thank you for watching. 👍👍👍
Very informative! Thanks for another great episode.
Your videos are inspirational. If I have an old 3A power supply, could I use that to charge this pack for in home operation of a high amp draw radio instead of a solar panel? Would I charge it thru the solar charge controller or go directly into the BMS?
I’m thinking of making a system that would run a mobile radio from my house and stay charged with a 3A power supply and be able to be packed up to carry camping and charged via solar panel while away from home.
Thanks for the kindness.
The short answer to your question is yes. Here's a short explainer video I did to show you how I'm doing it on the bench. ruclips.net/video/JCag9T2tc1E/видео.html
Of course if your power supply is only 3 amps, theoretically you shouldn't go over that current draw with your radio. Otherwise you're just extending the life of your battery not keeping it charged all the time. Another problem with your power supply maybe output voltage. We want a stable current going to our lithium iron phosphate battery. I'm usually using something between 14.3 and 14.5 volts, and depending on which radio I'm powering and if I'm powering my laptop as well I'll set the current at 2A.
Your other question when I'm just trying the battery and not simultaneously using it I do use the adjustable current voltage converter in that small explainer video directly to the battery. I usually set it up for 14.3 volts 1A. Remember never to give the full current of your power supply to your batteries.
Check out that video, and I hope this helps.
73
Julian oh8stn
Hi bro you are doing a nice job contributing for the ham radio society I have enjoyed watching you and I made a 20 amp virgin like yours is 10 amp and then having a problem I don't know how to order the shrink wrap for it can you help me with that keep doing the good work thank you A61bn
With me living in South Carolina, would the f16-1200 panel be the right solar panel for this build?
It depends on how fast you would like to recharge it. In good sunlight the F-16 1200 could recharge this pack from completely empty, in just a couple of hours.
Sorry this is the video I meant to comment on. Can you send the link for the batteries and holder I would like to build one for my yeasu 857ND love it you have them tks.
Moi Friend, Have a current supply for the bms? Found them for my last build but need to do a couple more and can not source them anywhere.
I'm waiting on a new one for testing. I hope it's here within a week or two. There's also some new builds we have to get done on the channel.
Hey first I would like to say I enjoy your videos keep them coming. But on your battery pack it's a 4S that setup only increase volt and not amps
Thanks, were you skipping through the video? 😉
Pay attention to the multimeter. Each group is 4 cells in parallel, increasing amperage. Then 4 groups in series, increasing voltage.👍👍👍
Cannot find the BMS mentioned. Any subs?
Found a vendor for the 38120 and they claim the rating is 30 amps continuous, not 50. Did I misunderstand something?
I understand the purpose of the heat shrink but It just does not seem right to cover up the large heat sink that will be cooling those mosfets. Perhaps it does not matter if the charging current is going to be quite low?
Read the comments :-)
Hello. Interesting that your Power Pole at index 13:47, shows the red housing on the right. All the ones that I've seen have the red housing on the left with the tongue facing
down looking into the connector as you show it. Curios as to how you plug it in into a commercial item like a West Mountain Rig Runner distribution panel?
I also have a 891 and will try to copy what you have done. Kudos to you.
I'm not using commercial products like the Western Mountain radio rigrunner. I specifically set up my power poles for my own close knit group of operators. We are all using customizable kits, or have bedpoje built powerful distribution boards ourselves.
Good luck on your build. Please come back to let us know how it went.
73
Julian oh8stn
@OH8STN. BTW, where is a list of parts for the 45 amp/hour build? Just curious, what is the approximate cost?
Please check the description of that video. All the links to the information are there stop. The cost are always different for each user. Where you get your cells, components, whether you substitute some components with another, or omit a component entirely. The complete build is certainly possible, but you can also just take what's useful for you, and build your own thing around the template.
OH8STN can you tell me where you are getting the heat shrink for this project? I can't find any large enough. Love your builds.
EBay, and thanks for the kindness.
I'll post a link in the episode notes.
73
Julian oh8stn
Hey Julian, I am considering building one of these battery packs but have no experience as far as battery packs are concerned. I am planning on using the Bestech 50A that you have listed in your notes on your website. I was curious, can you hook up a normal battery charger (of course one intended for a LiFePO4 battery) where you would plug in your solar charge controller? That way you can charge it off of a charger at home, and then also use the solar out in the field. Or is this mainly meant to just be charged through the solar panels? Thanks - N7ACI
Great question. The way I would do it is connect the battery charger on the other side (battery side) of the charge controller. A normal battery charger won't work on the solar side of the charge controller because Imit can't sense the battery. Still there's nothing wrong with having two chargers in parallel, then use one or the other 👍
Great Video, a small tip with Power poles - "Red Right, tongue down" when assembling. Who is the artist playing in the background?
Thanks for the yip Steve.
The track name is "back to the simple life", it's part of the Kine Master Pro music library.